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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
DEG EU ZINE:
JAIN) WUILIIS ARETE IO) MUN INSU EN?
DIMOR2 JOIN’ Esavis
ASSOCIATE EDITORS
ASW: GREELY: W J McGEE HENRY GANNETT
C. HART MERRIAM ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE
WOlL, IDS SOW AES NOEs
WASHINGTON
THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
1898
.
“WASHINGTON, D.C.
JUDD & DETWEILER PRINTERS
1898 .
CONTENTS
Page
Three Weeks in Hubbard Bay, West Greenland; by Roperr Srein. 1
The Samoan Cocoanut; [A. W. GREELY]..................------e- 12
The Modern Mississippi Problem; by W J McGrr................. 24
Oinoneronabnade:-) [PEER vii GeANINHDT) (see) alee eiste ale aides ees ee ater 2
The Presidency of the National Geographic Society. .............. 28
Geographic Literature (Eleventh Annual Report of the Interstate
CommenceyCommnulssion) ese ae ae eee see be esl eee 29
Proceedings of the National Geographic Society................... 31
VIR Sell ne cate eects merase! och pled Mev sea bata cclaiN ise sth es fee eal eka noua Sicuemark 32
Gardiner Greene Hubbard; by Rev. Trunts S. Hamuin, D. D...... 33
Gardiner Greene Hubbard, Memorial Meeting....... a eee ot 39
Proceedings of the National Geographic Society .................. 70
Geographic Literature (Stanford’s Compendium of Geography and
Travel. North America, Vol. I, Canada and Newfoundland,
DAWSON) siete ra eh bare state sil cts eaten MeN An Cuan eegan SOUS PIES Mena oe ly i
Geoora CHIN OF ES Ay sepsis SNS ALN Wists eek nanan suiearers bey a drtct ates 72
Dwellings of the Saga-time in Iceland, ‘Gueenlendl, eal anelanal by
CorNeL_IA Horsrorp.......... GU es asain eee Bea crs eo ha eae ats is
Completion ofithedta Boca ockt: iy seem Wy coe ee ner eee 84
Two Hundred Miles up the Kuskokwim ; by CHartEs Haunock.... 86
The Mt St Elias Expedition of Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy ; [Enrza
IEVUEVANEAHE: S CED MORE [Bats chest ytiecs vos Gualn el owe slogs aislicren fishes 3
The Origin of the French Canadians......... .......5.......0.05- 96
The Height of Mt Rainier; by RicHArp U. Goopu................ 97
Geographic Work by the Bureau of American Ethnology; [W J
IM IGKE ToT oH heraideatee trates ira ak aceastn tar PMN hie ety a td Lr er i ee Te Aes RN a 98
A Relic of the Lewis and Clarke Expedition; by Cyrus C. Bass... 100
An Interesting Rumor Concerning Andrée; [JoHN Hypr]..-...... 102
Geographic Names in West Greenland; by Raupn S. Tarr........ 108
Proceedings of the National Geographic Society.................... 104
The Northwest Passes to the Yukon; by Exriza RuHAMAH ScipMorE. 105
Overland Routes to the Klondike; by Hamuin GARLAND.... ...... 1s
The Future of the Yukon Gold Fields; by Wintiam H. Datu...... 117
Notes on the Wild Fowl and (Saumne Animals of Alaska; by E. W.
DINGHIES ON Pees cr evens Pet etnare tonsire ls a meh geben ee atia! shay eu eU te uel uel aes REMY aes onal 121
Climatic Conditions of Alaska; by A. W. GREELY................. 132
A Yukon Pioneer, Mike Lebarge; by Wiurram H. DALt........... 137
Alaska and its Mineral Resources; by SamurL FRANKLIN EmmMons.. 139
The Civil Government of Alaska; by Grorar C. PERKINS.......... 172
Some of the Conditions and Possibilities of Agriculture in Alaska;
DWAR AAT Elie HU NGAGNS \252 royss opeyshetepianetevatevarcZahulicnes caves als « Gievalelars aaa weyaens 178
The Metlakatla Mission in Danger; by WinuiAm H. Datun..... .... 187
Agriculture in the Yukon Valley ; [SHELDON JACKSON]. ........... 189
iv CONTENTS
Page
On Eskimo Geographic Names Ending in miut; by Jonn Murpocnr. 190
Geographic Literature (Geographical and Statistical Notes on Mexico,
Romero; Report to Congress on Agriculture in Alaska, including
reports of Evans, Killin and Jackson; Rand, McNally & Co.’s
Maps of Alaska; Golden Alaska, Ingersoll; The Golden North,
DULUTH DE) icestnts Daca eer aenS Eater Mehatee een aiae Peete hs tak Saks SMe 191
@ubaraby SRoBeRT Eo Mime io) keel e dene SE eee ea Eee 193
MhesPloridar Coastline Canals sa5 4:6 ssc ae entantey (Oa
The Origin of West India Bird Life; by MANE M. CHAPMAN. a2) 243
Trade of the United States with Cuba Vorrowlehvpmicackscasoocdne 2M
Captain Charles D. Sigsbee, U. 8. N.; [HEnry Gasman] BAAN rc eres oe 250
Reception to Captain C. D. Sigsbee, U. SON (orem Etsvan Blister 251
Geographic Literature (Rand-McNally War Atlas; Bulletin of De-
partment of Labor, No. 16; Statistical Abstract of the United
States, 1897; Ninth Annual Report on the Statistics of Railways
in the United States, 1895-1896)...... Ne Be anh ee een rece nae 203
Geocraphics Serials vv. us: 0 aes pene ys eae ees be eae ge een erage ae 256
The Philippine Islands; by F. F. uma REE a ya GR ES eee ke le ab ee sepa ata 257
Notes on Some Pramas Philippine Tribes; by Drax C. WorcrstER. 284
Commerce of the Philippine Islands; [Jonn Hypr]............... 301
The Disposition of the Philippines; [CHarues E. Howe]........... 304
American Geographic Education; by W J McGue........ ......... 305
Origin of the Physical Features of the United States; by G. K.
GUIBERT S35 Sec oskc oan ats ghana jc gee TOR IE PRC aan Soca nt npr e mee 308
Geographic Development of the District of Columbia; by W J McGrmn. 317
The Historical Development of the National Capital; by Marcus
D BY 5012 ee ae Ste ae A es Peat ETA eer en el Ur nce bay Pacman occas oe 323
Geographic Work opine General Government; by Henry GANNErT. 329
The Geologic Atlas of the United States ; rw Jp McGnnilanerie-care 339
The Topographic Atlas of the United States; [W J McGur]........ 343
Paparoueriass: DyaW. IuMICGEE aa.) janie eee ee see eae Ce 345
Gomez and the New York Gulf; [L. D. Scisco].................. . o@1
Wellman Polar Expedition [Jonn -ElymEl|-ssoeae eee eee eee 3738
Proceedings of the National Geographic Society .................. 379
The Growth of the United States; by W J McGuen................. 378
Bitter Root Forest Reserve; by Ricnarp U. GoopE............ 500 BOM
Atlantic Estuarine Tides; by Mark S. W. JuFFERSON............... 400
The Forest Conditions and Standing Timber of the State of Wash-
mMeton by LENRY (GANNETT) 1... eae nen eat meee erate ete 410
American Association for the Advancement of Science [Joun Hype]. 412
Proceedings of the National Geographic Society. ..........++..+++- 414
ATMenadments toy Bylaws oenc coe 4 beeen: aCe eene ee So viciot Gales
Water Clrelani’ by eblENiuva GuANINI TT eco rs eso aie eine eee eet 417
Bredericawe kutnan JOHN EiaD 0] pee senor econ eee noreoe 429
MesaiVerde by be Ei Nie wititie s1.% sien ciacathearic tae eRe ree 431
TheiGeospheres, by Wi Ji McoGum). oak sons: eee Ck a eee 435
Proposed Collection of Forestry Statistics. 5 2.) 52.8.4. uel 448
NGISCel areas eae te a etshe TLE edt bag SERN ELE ea ee ae ...- 448
CONTENTS Vv
Page
Sumatra’s West Coast; by Davip G. FArRcHILD............ ....--- 449
What is the Tide of the Open Atlantic? by Mark 8. W. JEFFErson.. 465
MUR Cale one liba mle accra chur even Rls ye bsyiele ow acl Susie came STalare cima ore 476
Geographic Aspects of the Monroe Doctrine....................... 476
Geographic Literature (The Louisiana Purchase and our Title West
of the Rocky Mountains, Hermann; The State, Wilson)... ... 477
Min SGellam enemas sox satires eine Cad cesta srevans sistema Nos uo ve/ Aiaval 480
The Five Civilized Tribes and the Survey of Indian Territory ; by :
Oy DEUS TRIGUONE i ol slayer UNI Statens Nahar) ANE aed Meer UOC eas Nari meee UR 481
Cloud Scenery of the High Plains; by Wiruarp D. JoHNson..... . 493
Atlantic Coast Tides; by Mark S. W. JEFFERSON.................. 497
President Alexander Graham Bell on Japan [JOHN Rape) Shay siea sue 509
Geographic Literature (Cuba and Porto Rico with the Other Islands
of the West Indies, R. T. Hill; Railway Economics, Newcomb ;
The Philippine Islands and Their People, Worcester; Volcanoes
Or INOmiIn Amnerai@n, IRDSSA)) oo scocucseocuaadeodnesonsooooneaue 512
Proceedings of the National Geographic Society.................04- 519
ILLUSTRATIONS
Page
View from Hoyt island looking across Hunton strait to Holm island
(OLE et esr eS eS SURREAL eR PONE eGR CU NE I Side 1
Vegetation on south slope of Telos island, August 15, 1897 (pl. 1).. i
Plan of Arctic exploration from a base near Jones sound or at Gare
SOUOUING Beiter tart ins renee eet cammanahe ls arcane cern oeaMoaat tian aNeean LR il a ae 2
Hubbard bay and Alison bay, west Greenland..... .... .......... 3
Grestawithsbowlders) Eloy aslamdeip-e recuse eee eet rens tr oo rele eneterie by)
Cairn built by Lieut. Ryder in 1887 on Inugsulik “clara ay Sraeanene eRe 6
Soil crack behind ancient Eskimo igloo, Richardson island, Hubbard
GEMNGs co Poe sH OU -CAOGO TS OOO OMA OSC MESS CU OOOO pO (Oe aald ooo 8
HiskimogtammilhyaatgW imam a keey es ei) eres easier ste ere ere etree Bastiat Snir @)
Gardiner Greener bards(pla2)eemaes arias ciciaa tetera se leaie 33
mMlexanden Graham belle (jolss)\re casera Sey Seka hares eas renee a)
SU MOSeCl lida ees Or? ILebe MAM RsOMN.soagsoeocdsouusdeoadcHooooaase oS
Wenriicalisectioniofgantapartinent mmm cn ser ie ccie ep et irae n ceric 75
RUIN Olpeaganece mpl ena tell yelp server y iene cheat jens ey tote cee ase 76
Plan of the house of Erik the Red in Haukadale.................. Ue
INMIO-OF Seyangstexchie mn labore, Gos scold do cas ess se godond 405% 77
Wallsitotea Norse ruiniin: Greenlandic werent rae) cr chee oegatrter: 79
ARVO? QING AS ion thn Creeeynlennelsagoacscs6 os 6 Gaokecccsuncds 79
Supposed site of the house of Erik the Red in Greenieiad cence ene 80
Supposed Norse ruin in Massachusetts.............-..-- are is eaten 81
SupposedeNorse nina Mascachusettsse een nner ence eee reer 82
Kuskokwim river from Kolmakovsky............- ser Vitae ates fale 5 SD
Bramestorednyinevtishie cru panaccs se ee rae erin rari) oko ee oh
Bidarkas (skin canoes) on the lower Kuskokwim........... Tareas 88
Mumitrekhlagamute..:5.-.-5.---.- 3- aA eyed anCN BI ice eee me aed ee A 89
Kel akOwvs keycors eas ae trseatecien see epee se estate mete) Sided caatade rata cemeyea semaine 90
JAS NO GMCS So cocooduboccocdseooovose coco sabodDoDeGaO. 92
he cold andicoalstreldsioteAlaskal: (oly) Pema ise el ical 105
Chilkoot pass—Yukoners approaching summit............ ..-..--- 106
Skagway cafion—Yukoners en route....... ....4 «2.0. sees eee. 109
View from Dalton trail, between Dalton’s post and Hootchi ‘lke. Poe Ila
Wiley iiroun rose IDENTSOM GIR. ogc55cb00020c6n0000000 songabQ00b00 114
Harlequin duck, king eider, spectacled eider, and Steller’s eider.... 122
IDM NSO oo sao sooaseunomaesndooooedsopeL obvaeed 50.090 123
REVI oes laos seabodsocoe burn Aeon Goes ouundodd cposomoaacgaas 124
[BERGHEI PROIDINGL CAVAN NO . cocssccasunsedecuoacdcoroon osacangpnaDenan 125
Valls mountainisheepaeece cette es ere eet tiara toler e ratte 128
Joi Enel oerhee eA Ue Bencooddnods se acapocatobdosmascben dud Mo msadans 129
Mike Lebarge::e ees creer emer coy irene mr ae rs tot er une gal 138
View of Eldorado erga a branch of the Klondike............. ... 144
SSihespenpimcose \MNuies Oey otacdatesnnabo0do00d Hoaoduranncuen OO e0% 148
pane Of Chilkoob passin wise eee ey te eee eee Charlee eked sto keto eaete 151
D. Sigsbee, Captain U.S. Navy (pl. 5)............22.-+.+-+0 sve, 193
(vi)
ILLUSTRATIONS vil
Page
Entrance to Habana harbor, looking outward....................-. 195
Camitiauinann@in Ors Ome te Gris sere Gon oor Herc Laten hin erie canna . 197
Elevated north coast of Cuba between Habana and Matanzas....... 198
Coast topography east of Santiago de Cuba................. ames 200
Geologic section by V. Pellitero across east end of Cuba............ 201
Mountains rising out of central plain, south of Matanzas........... 203 _
Geologic section across the central liniestone plains from Habana to
J BYERS OR MST Ola a =i5 4 Ss ek eRe UE Se Ca eee Ue a eee Sant ee aT 205
SCCHOMPALMIDALACO Amr yee ater mie pclae ae teinie tae pietaishalel Mug A) waayarer sco Kuselan 206
CGeolocicmmapotthenslandkot Cubamas.pegos- aod ne wee. sin AUC
Mouth of the Yumuri of the east, near Baracoa.................... 208
Nation ot © ually ars (OURO) iy seer, ei cene) vets cstalieroncrarstrawstah apepeeeiavanelcns woeld iardyp\ondaleraeet 209
Avenue of palms on sugar estate, Matanzas........................ 210
My MICA a plain eecentrale@ water ey cissiea yeep eile = aiayatetcye ys taiaircicre ee valet 213
Geolocvoh Mataibaysractyplcal, hanboreane reach oi yasteeii ire) s es cae 216
Vira AMZ ASR OA ctnsteats sparen Mites Snr sharscceate a sua apenaseis ver ayeiers oevseia seeps eetaxe vile ZY)
WinimiZns loeny Erno! NGan IA, We hae Oe Seo cca s gu amacon Otic pea aen ere
Baracoa, Cuba, the oldest American city.... ...................... 223
Old fortification at entrance of Santiago de Cuba................... 225
Yumuri cafion, back of Matanzas city. ...................0.00.00- 228
Village between Habana and Matanzas...-..................- «... 231
Spanish strongholds, Cuba Libre, devastated Cuba, and Cuban out-
JOCKS coulgo) /suralaiold clo nny cluldjag aco oe scion ater cerois core morte eee 234
rep yumuninvaliiey.enean Matanzas sneer silacic seeeinecn ners ae 237
Cape Mayci, eastern point of Cuba.............. Han eRe e MMC SNL 242
Ortskeonpsvot aml ay (ole rayon ciscrsae cease re lese rehanstelerieassereausutciere aear 7:
EO OL WE lelonllijay gene) WIENER eodn ner boot Goons uobonbodubdas tad 258
New cathedral at Manila, with ruined tower of old structure....... 260
Dryins suear at atactory—lsland of Muzony- 452.22). 2.4-1.- 2 .. 266
(Civals nga Geen ows pa obodabocsoosd soon loeb senses tae SL aeons 268
Native agriculture of Philippine islands......... A en esi aie PON ee 269
Chariot Manilawbay. cae oes teicls ets: at eee, Ae Re Saas bye)
Nal tiivienvalilncerotwAll Davis sre spacial cea siet dies sicond ec Wot raya iets aM ne allan aun Neale 276
SPAMisheonnincanonsmedrs Mamie. +2 Merrie cre tej ie nan meena ee 277
The Escolta—main business street of Manila. ..................... 279
Wernvambests irae seca mul ey aye uss) uarOnesn online ola a peduia tenets ate or ic(eanatea erispas 279
IS GAVAMIOS » aid Bate Helos a eae ic er Ane els AA oR ALAS. Marans ey 7c SA rt Me em anh 281
Church, convento, and watch tower—Dumaguete, Negros island.... 285
PEACALCOMMOUSE: WIN OO sere hice «ssie rn ciate ole, rephoce icine «tolevs wicteretse sprain tree 286
Mangyan group, with house—Mt Halcon, Mimdoro................ 287
Married Mangyan woman, showing typical costume... ............. 289
Unmarried Mangyan girls, showing typical costume................ 290
Native sail-boat, mangrove swamp in background..........., ..... 291
MEA ONS tOREMOUSE TOR OPATM es yy rectal Wut Waist, unos einjeletereks tears aie 293
ADO eA INNL ARIA] CMe aetsnc ep Ce esr: ts paraiitas Ai uate coe tetiars, wlan aye carte enable anal econ 296
RAC MAM MN VOUM samo ClHULGIeM = noite eugene sees ecise eeacic' eislie eine wets 297
iSayAMeM Aablvyey am GalvOUSEHe ajo ersarssicretsve sisvel ceig eve slsvoue tis hvelcicimyomtaues 299
Oldkfontnvathechunrehwimsid ed cis << ce sea velels clisvelelaie sie eevee sine re evaey: 301
Miememinedustates im Kelet (Wl. 8) iso <Ststsin se. tae aieleieseins ee oleae ey > oles 310
viil ILLUSTRATIONS
The southern part of the prehistoric Canadian ice-sheet (pl. 9) .... 314
View from ‘* Hole in the Mountain,’’ near Tempe, Arizona (pl. 10).. 345
Cienega: Mexican-Indian village of Papagueria...:...........-- . 346
Baboquirera peak, seen from Fresnal........ ........+eceeeeeeee- . 348
Rio Seco: A typical sandwash of Papagueria..............-.-.---.« Bo
Coyote mBapaco,vallacet ease connie eee Se eras 5 0 399
Therchiefsshouse;,Bresnallnags.c toc oon Soe eRe Eee 309
Dy picall Papago House 5.5 0-75 tenets freee oe Ao cera eee cee eee - 362
iRosomVierderPapacomvlllacesees heme ane So MOOR ES OO-O CC 366
Rotheryemalkers) atawoukeinetiyo1calul Owen el eisci eerie een er eet 369
Crest ofeBittersRootymoumbains) (poles) aepee seis akc ae 377
Diagram illustrating growth of the United States.................. 380
Viel Owain = GrOves ee gt heres oles AEE CTS Ce 390
Wedaraforest on Mooseicreékis.c) ys oa eee eee boo oS
Map ot thevBitter Root forest reserve) (plil2) ery. ae locate . 394
IB UPN G SLORES U4 Seaver cry a aonsaeiatae 52 da ierehatan a et eeu eee trp etre tiey a eee 397
Subalpine fir thicket and meadow on Mussel Shell creek........ Foo ce Os)
Mire Delaware: wiv eM ek. es esaiisja de wavs Sie epee cae mew ee ates Gee) axe ANC SU oem eR 401
iidalshours mathe Chesapeake: “Aegean cece ec eee 408
Diacramiot rances ot Chesapeakentidest p> sea asec eee ene ee 404
IE eWeeBuaitme ne Gplsl'3)) Pein ureto xd wpevstey che teatcece ai ices en stone eters eee 417
Map of Lake Chelan and vicinity, State of Washington...... ..... 418
Bake: ChelanvatithemNarrowss ses ee oe eee en Gee 420
Wiestisidevof Eorseshoesbasinun sas -acese ee sae oa Cece ee 421
Cascade;passianduan|piithea tent e aries ee eee eee Pees te 429
(Crormeann iN os coc Seucnosun as ee ON tne RT IN gc OAE. 0.010 5 423
Stehekin valley, at the mouth of Company creek...... ......... . 425
Mountains bordering on Lake Chelan................ PSs nares 427
Ly pical view trom a) boat on Wake! Chelan se. sete i eee ee 428
OnitheiwestcoastofeSumatra.. er oer cee toe er Eee note 450
Court-house near Padang Pandjang, Sumatra... ................-. 452
Hotel aijkadansseandjane, Sumatran eect re reece eee 454
Sumatran dwelling-house, showing bamboo wicker-work. .... .... 465
Sumatran brideiand sroom . 2.- .1. Ss eoee en eee eee emeane
Row of Sumatran houses near Fort de Kock. ..................-.. 458
Sumatran messigit, or temple, near Pajo Kombo..................- 460
Sumatran messigit, or temple, with priest in foreground ........... 461
Diasramslinstratmoercopidalaliness asesneeee ee nec eee 468-471
Diacram\of Indian: Territory). 224: <2 oe eee ee hee eee 482
Avstreet in South’ McAlester, Indian’ Mexpitony~ ee ee 484
Indian light-horsemen on scout duty for horse thieves............. 486
Choctawacabins indian Memitony) cece eee eee oe eeee 489
Campofa U.S. G.S. surveying party near Ardmore, Indian Territory. 491
Normalyappearancelofathe hichyplainss esl eee ener recite eee 492
Gloudiscenery, ofthe hich plains(pliia\e es eens ee eee eer 495
Cloud scenery of the high plains (pl. 15). 2.5. 1. + eee eee 496
Diacram illustrating Atlantic coast tides.s) -.3e ac 0e see eee 498
Cotidalsiixom St wJonns, Newtoundlande... 4. eee een nee eee 502
Tidal hours from No Mans Land in Long Island sound..........+.. 506
Magazine
AN ILLUSTRATED MONTHLY
Editor: JOHN HYDE
' Associate Editors
A. Ww. GREELY | W J McGEE ~— HENRY GANNETT
: c. HART MERRIAM ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE
| CONTENTS:
ae WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY, Rh ata eierope ate soonest
- oe maps and illustrations. — : ROBERT STEIN
; WasHnGndN
Z PUBLISHED BY THE ase eae GEOGRAPHIC, SOCIETY
M4 *
} >,
THE
National Geographic BOCLeuy
ORGANIZED, JANUARY, 1888
PRESIDENT
ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL
V 1cE- PRESIDENTS
MARCUS BAKER . A. W. GREELY
WILLIAM H. DALL C. HART MERRIAM
G. K. GILBERT - HERBERT G. OGDEN:
TREASURER
HENRY GANNETT
RECORDING SECRETARY CORRESPONDING SECRETARY
F. H. NEWELL ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE. ==-
_ Manacnrs
CHARLES J. BELL EVERETT HAYDEN
H. F. BLOUNT JOHN HYDE
EP YY. COVILLE W J McGEE
DAVID T. DAY W. B. POWELL
SECRETARY’S OFFICE
Room 55, Ohio Bank Building, Twelfth and G Sts. N.W., Washington —
The National Geographic Society, the object of which is the increase and diffusion
of geographic knowledge, has a paying membership of 1,500. Its membership is not
restricted to practical geographers, but is open to any person in good standing who may
be sufficiently interested in its work to seek admission. The annual subscription is: for
active members, $5.00 per annum ; for corresponding members, $2.00 per annum, Active
members pay also an entrance fee of $2.00 on election. Tas Natrona GrogrRapHic
Maeazine is sent regularly to all members, both active and corresponding.
Donations for the founding of Prize Medals and Scholarships are
respectfully solicited.
NAT. GEOG. MAG. VOL. IX, 1898, PL. 1
5
a 6 Cc
VIEW FROM HOYT ISLAND, LOOKING ACROSS HUNTON STRAIT TO HOLM ISLAND
Mounts McGee (a), Langley (b), and Powell (c)
VEGETATION ON SOUTH SLOPE OF HOYT ISLAND, AUGUST 15, 1897
National Geographic Magazine
Vou. 1X JANUARY, 1898 No. 1
TAREE WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY, WEST GREENLAND
By Ropert STEIN,
United States Geological Survey
In 1893 I published a plan of Arctic exploration from a base
near Jones sound, proposing first to trace the west coast of Elles-
mere land and afterward to explore the triangle between Elles-
mere and Grinnell lands on the east and the Parry islands on
the south. That field was declared by General Greely to be the
one in all the Arctic “that promises the largest results with the
least amount of labor and danger.” Lieut. Julius von Payer de-
clared that the spot selected for the base was “ the most suitable ”
and the plan “thus far the best imaginable.”” Numerous weighty
authorities concurred in this opinion, especially Lieut. Peary, who
called the plan “ one of the safest, most promising, and cheapest,
avoiding hurry, and permitting the utilization of experience.”
As now planned, the expedition would cost $5,000.
Failing to secure the requisite funds, I decided, by Lieut.
Peary’s advice, to undertake a preliminary trip to Greenland in
order to gain the experience in Arctic exploration which in his
opinion would be of most essential service in securing financial
support. . Through the kind assistance of the late Hon. Gardiner
G. Hubbard, President of the National Geographic Society, as
well as of Major J. W. Powell, Director of the Bureau of Amer-
ican Hthnology; Prof. 8. P. Langley, Secretary of the Smithso-
nian Institution, and Mr C. D. Walcott, Director of the U.S.
Geological Survey and of the National Museum, I was enabled
to take advantage of Lieut. Peary’s invitation to accompany him
2 THREE WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY
on his seventh Greenland voyage, in the summer of 1897, to spend
three weeks in exploration in an interesting field.
Lieut. Ryder, of the Danish navy, explored in 1887 the bay
north of Wilcox head (which I have called Hubbard bay), and
there found numerous Eskimo remains. ‘The present Eskimos
of Upernivik and Tasiusak never until the spring of 1897 ex-
PLAN OF ARCTIC EXPLORATION FROM A BASE NEAR JONES SOUND OR Al’ CAPE SABINE ;
tended their hunting trips beyond the great rookery of Cape
Shackleton, while the Cape York tribe, according to Lieut. Peary,
never go farther south than Melville Monument. ‘This leaves a
gap of 140 miles. Inspector Ohlsen, at Upernivik (to whom I
am much indebted for valuable assistance) told me that the
Eskimos of that colony had a tradition that their ancestors used
to go hunting near Wilcox head, but ceased to do so about 200
THREE WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY
os
HUBBARD BAY
AND
ALISON BAY
WEST GREENLAND
Nunataks South of 74°30 after C.H.Ryder
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HUBBARD
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years ago, so far as he can estimate. How much farther north
they had gone he could not tell. Thus the remains found by
Ryder were of unusual interest, as representing a stage when the
race was unaffected by civilization, except, perhaps, that of the
“
4 THREE WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY
early Norsemen. To collect such remains was my main object.
As Lieut. Ryder sent a collection to the Ethnographic Museum
at Copenhagen, I feared that nothing of note would be left at the
sites he had touched, and therefore asked Mr Peary to land me
at Cape Malm, the north end of Hubbard bay.
With three Eskimos from Upernivik, I was landed on August
10 on a headland supposed to be Cape Malm, the dense fog pre-
venting accurate orientation.. From the top I perceived next
morning that I was on the island next south (which I have called
Hoyt island), separated from Cape Malm by a channel five miles
wide, filled with icebergs. As soon as the fog had lifted I pre-
pared to row over to Cape Malm, but when we reached the west
end of Hoyt island and saw before us the wild chaos of rapidly
moving icebergs, the Eskimos, thoroughly frightened, refused to
row farther, even for triple pay. Lieut. Peary had urged me to
listen to the Eskimos’ advice in regard to ice and wind, and I
recognized that under no circumstances must I fail to keep my
appointment to meet him on September 1, because such failure
would subject him to the inconvenience of having to search for
me in those unknown and ill-reputed waters of Melville bay.
Accordingly, after ten minutes’ parley, finding that their appre-
hensions were real, I turned back.
I now decided to make a thorough exploration of Hoyt island
as the type of a group. The island consists of four mountain
masses, the highest about J,000 feet, separated by deep valleys.
Except on the storm-beaten western peninsula, which seemed
entirely bare, the southern slopes, where not too near the per-
pendicular or too smoothly glaciated, are covered with the ordi-
nary Arctic vegetation, blueberries, crowberries, grasses, heather,
poppy, dwarf willow, dwarf birch, and an abundance of moss,
forming carpets into which the foot sank up totheankle. Every-
where the sod was sliding down in great, black, wavy avalanches,
held together by the tough, peaty fiber, so that plants were often
seen growing from vertical or even overhanging surfaces. The
summits and the north flank, a succession of nearly vertical
cliffs, are almost entirely bare of vegetation. In the shadow of
many cliffs lay long snow banks (aput), hard as ice, offering con-
siderable resistance to the knife, yet evidently not of many years’
growth, since a hollow space beneath them bore witness to active
melting. The tinkle of little streams could be heard in many
places, but only at one point was there a watercourse sufficiently
definite to be called a brook. Thesummits and sides, where not
THREE WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY 5
CREST WITH BOWLDERS, HOYT ISLAND
too steep, were strewn with glacial bowlders, different from the
bed-rock, though eruptive, with the exception of three conglom-
erates. Glacial striee were seen on the northeast summit. The
whole island is seamed by frost fissures. Many of the projecting
pinnacles are weathered into fantastic forms and surrounded by
a conical talus of glittering rhombic crystals. In many places
the talus formation was so active as to overwhelm the vegetation.
Nine freshwater lakes, the largest about 30 acres in extent, were
seen, some in the valleys, others on the level summits. They
were the favorite resort of the red-throated diver, always seen in
pairs, but no other life was observed in them. ‘The life in the
sea was exceedingly abundant. Seals were seen nearly every
day ; eider ducks (mvttek) in long lines, each numbering perhaps
five hundred, were paddling over the water with rhythmiccackle ;
_each cove was alive with little auks (serpak), handsome in their
coat of black, white, and red, their thin, piping voices seeming
curiously out of proportion to the size of the bird. The air
was alive with gulls and terns. Wherever the depth of water
permitted, the bottom could be seen completely covered with
vegetation. Long strings of kelp, when drawn out of the water,
were found to harbor quite a fauna of crustaceans and mollusks.
A piece of bone thrown into the water would be covered with
6 THREE WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY
shrimps in a few moments. No reindeer were seen, but shed
antlers testified to their occasional visits. The snow bunting
and ptarmigan found abundant food in the blueberries and crow-
berries. The blueberry bushes were fairly alive with little black
spiders. Several specimens of a hairy caterpillar and of a large
fly were secured. Bears had left records of their visits in numer-
ous seal bones, but were not seen, having gone away with the
floe-ice.
The same description applies to most of the land in the vicin-
ity. On Inugsulik, the island next east, I found the cairn mark-
ing Ryder’s farthest north. Great volcanic fissures, 20 to 100
feet wide, between vertical walls, traverse that island in all direc-
tions. Being for the most part level-floored, they afford easy
thoroughfares for travel. The level floor is evidently due to
glacial action, being formed of débris, sometimes angular, some-
times rolled so as to resemble a collection of cannon balls. Suc-
cessive terminal moraines have converted several of these ave-
nues into stairways. Though much higher than Hoyt island,
Inugsulik’s summit also is bowlder-strewn. A brook dashes
down its west side, large enough to be impassable near its
mouth.
CAIRN BUILT BY LIEU. RYDER IN 1887 TO MARK HIS FARTHEST NORTH ON INUGSULIK
ISLAND. MOUNT OPERIIT IN THE DISTANCE ON THE RIGHT
\,, aden
THREE WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY 7
Both from Hoyt island and from Inugsulik I had a full view
of the inland ice of Greenland, extending as a white band along
the eastern sky and discharging through the magnificent Hearst
glacier, with a front of 15 miles, casting off enormous icebergs,
which completely blocked Henderson bay and came slowly
trooping down in a stately procession to join the great muster of
their fellows in Baffin bay. Far above the glacier, a nunatak,
Mount Pepper, lifted its black head out of the inland ice. Long
crevasses on each side showed that the peak was part of a pre-
cipitous wall, over which the ice dropped in a cascade several
miles long.
On White island, in the center of Hubbard bay, I found at
last the main object of my quest—Hskimo remains. There were
two houses beside a little lake on a low rocky spur projecting
westward, but the main: settlement was on the east side, in a
most picturesque site, conspicuous afar by the vivid green of the
abundant vegetation. Like the Carthaginians, these ancient
-Innuits had an outer and an inner harbor, separated by a ledge
of rocks, over which the tide flowed in and out. The inner
harbor was elliptic in outline and about 50 acres in extent. A
long knife-edge of rock protected the bays on the south, and so
high were the ridges and so deep the bays that the water must
remain unruffled in the fiercest storms, unless they come directly
from the east. On a level space between the two bays was the
settlement, a dozen houses, with graves scattered in among them
and along the foot of the hills. Directly behind was a fresh-
water lake, brown with decaying matter, but a second and larger
lake, some 80 feet higher, was clear and pure. A few graves
were also found on the south side. Stone fox-traps were scat-
tered all over the island. The eyes of my Eskimos beamed with
delight, for to them the snug harbor, the easy landing, the low,
level plateau, the freshwater lake within a stone’s throw, in the
midst of such abundance of animal life, must have seemed a
paradise. Where the wave beat had exposed a section of the soil
it was seen to consist of a black mass, thickly interlarded with
bones of whale, walrus, narwhal, and seal. Evidently the gar-
bage question had not begun to vex the minds of these ancients.
So far as I could judge, the houses and graves had remained un-
touched since their builders departed, though Ryder mentions
remains on that island. The roofs had fallen in and the rich
humus had given rise to a rank vegetation of grass and moss,
which had deeply buried the houses,so that some of them could
(oe)
THREE WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY
SOIL CRACK BEHIND ANCIENT ESKIMO IGLOO, RICHARDSON ISLAND, HUBBARD BAY
only be traced by the quadrangular swellings of the sod. To
my disappointment, the bones in the graves were all confusedly
jumbled together, so that it was impossible to make out a com-
plete skeleton. As each grave contained several skulls, the dis-
order was doubtless due to the fact that the bones of earlier
skeletons had been moved aside to make room for new arrivals.
While I was engaged in the task of spoliation the fog turned
into rain, converting the mold into a slimy paste, in which frag-~
ments of decayed bones or other material could no longer be
distinguished. Fearing to spoil the material of a future and
better equipped expedition, which the locality richly deserves,
I decided to content myself with the spoils of two graves.
On Richardson island, one of the two low islands south of
White island, the graves had been opened, probably by whalers,
and the bones scattered about. Of two houses at the water’s
edge, all but the back wall had been washed away. I was at
first disposed to attribute this to subsidence, but wide and deep
cracks in the soil showed that the whole mags of peat and muck
was slowly sliding seaward.
Similar remains were found on Porter island and (sadly plun-
dered) at Wilcox head, and the Eskimos saw others on the
THREE WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY 9
Winter islands. Ryder mentions remains at Cape Kasson and
on the north side of Wilcox head, which I did not see. In a
house a little farther south Ryder found “a large white glass
bead.” This would seem to indicate early Norse influences and
add to the interest of the region.
My three live Eskimos were interesting “study specimens.”
One of them was a blond of the purest type, in whom the admix-
ture of aboriginal blood was so slight as to be imperceptible ;
the others, though dark in hair and eye, were as white-skinned
as Europeans. It is the same throughout Danish Greenland.
The whole population is being rapidly Aryanized, and within a
few generations we shall have the curious spectacle of a race
practically Aryan in blood, and of the finest Aryan type at that,
the Scandinavian, yet speaking one of the most primitive of
“savage” languages, in which so simple a word as eight is ex-
pressed by the polysyllable apennepingazhut. Some of the young
women would pass for beauties anywhere, and one is somewhat
shocked at seeing them amid their dingy, desolate surroundings.
One peculiarity that struck me as soon as I reached Greenland
was the exquisite modulations of the voices of both men and
women, constantly reminding one of the French intonations,
ESKIMO FAMILY AT UMANAK
10 THREE WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY
such as you hear them from the lips of cultured Parisians—a
soft, almost plaintive, undertone, with no abrupt changes, but
merely gentle gliding mevertents within narrow limits of pitch
and volume. Their peculiar “r,” grasseyé like the Parisian (the
word Nursoak is often spelled } vee, completes the illusion.
It affords me pleasure to acknowledge my indebtedness to
Lieut. Peary for invaluable assistance and unvarying kindness,
and to record my gratification at having been an eye-witness of
his management—a model of foresight, readiness, energy, fair-
ness, patience, and consideration. In these qualities one per-
ceives the secret of his magnificent achievement and the guar-
antee of his crowning success, the conquest of the Pole in 1900.
In naming features which Ryder left unnamed, I have tried to
serve a useful purpose by using the names of some of the fore-
most advocates of a National University at Washington. This
may aid in giving to the movement the publicity which, it would
seem, is the only thing needed to insure its suecess.
Washington, Jefferson, and Madison islands, for three Presidents of the
United States.
Andrews glacier, for President E. B. Andrews, Brown University.
Carroll glacier, for ex-Governor John Lee Carroll, General President of
the Society of Sons of the Revolution, Maryland.
Chamberlin (Mt.), for Prof. T. C. Chamberlin, ex-President of the Uni-
versity of Wisconsin.
Dabney bay, for Hon. Charles W. Dabney, ex- Assistant enw of Agri-
culture, President of the University of Tennessee.
Eaton peninsula, for Gen. John Eaton, ex-U. S. Commissioner of Edu-
cation.
Edmunds island, for Hon. George F. Edmunds, ex-U. S. Senator. :
Frye (Mt.), for Hon. William P. Frye, U.S. Senator.
Fuller (Mt.), for Hon. Melville W. Fuller, Chief Justice of the Supreme
Court of the United States.
Garland peninsula, for Hon. A. H. Garland, ex-Attorney General of the
United States.
Gilman peninsula, for President D. C. Gilman, Johns Hopkins University.
Harper strait, for President William R. Harper, University of Chicago.
Harris bay, for Hon. W. T. Harris, U. S. Commissioner of Education.
Hawley strait, for Hon. Joseph R. Hawley, U. 8. Senator.
Hearst glacier, for Mrs Phcebe A. Hearst.
Henderson bay, for Hon. J. B. Henderson, ex-U. S. Senator.
Hoyt island, for Hon. J. W. Hoyt, ex-Governor of Wyoming, Chairman
of the Maida University Committee.
Hubbard bay, for Hon. Gardiner G. Hubbard, first President of the Na-
tional Geographic Society.
Hunton strait, for Hon. Eppa Hunton, ex-U.S. Senator.
- -
THREE WEEKS IN HUBBARD BAY ali
Jordan island, for President D. S. Jordan, Stanford University.
Kasson (Cape), for Hon. John A. Kasson, ex-U. S. Minister to Austria
and Germany.
Kyle island, for Hon. James H. Kyle, U. S. Senator.
Langley (Mt.), for Hon. 8. P. Langley, Secretary of the Smithsonian In-
stitution.
McGee (Mt.), for Prof. W J McGee, Ethnologist in Charge, Bureau of
American Ethnology.
Newcomb (Cape), for Hon.Simon Newcomb,ex-Director Nautical Almanac
Pepper (Mt.), for Dr William E. Pepper, ex-Provost of the University of
Pennsylvania; President of the Museum of Science and Arts, Phila-
delphia; President of the Pan-American Medical Congress.
Powell (Mt.), for Major J. W. Powell, Director of the Bureau of Amer-
ican Ethnology ; ex-Director of the U. 8. Geological Survey.
Porter island, for Gen. Horace Porter, U. 8S. Ambassador to France.
Proctor strait, for Hon. Redfield Proctor, U. S. Senator.
Richardson island, for Mrs Ellen A. Richardson, President of the George
Washington Memorial Association.
Ridpath island, for Dr John Clark Ridpath, Editor of the Arena.
Sherman strait, for Hon. John Sherman, Secretary of State; ex-U. S.
Senator.
Smith peninsula, for Col. Wilbur R. Smith, Kentucky University.
Strauss glacier, for Hon. Oscar 8. Strauss, ex-U. 8. Minister to Turkey.
Vilas (Mt.), for Hon. William F. Vilas, ex-Secretary of the Interior; ex-
U. S. Senator. .
Walcott peninsula, for Hon. C. D. Walcott, Director of the U. S. Geolog-
ical Survey. |
White island, for Hon. Andrew D. White, U. 8S. Ambassador to Germany ;
ex-U. 8S. Minister to Russia.
Wilson strait, for Hon. William L. Wilson, ex-Postmaster General ;
President of Washington and Lee University.
Wright (Lake), for Hon. Carroll D.Wright, U.S. Commissioner of Labor.
Besides these, the following names were deemed appropriate:
Mounts Bjorling and Kallstenius, for the two young Swedish explorers
who were lost in an attempt to reach Ellesmere land in 1893. The
two peaks were ascended by Bjorling in 1891.
Mount Ryder, for Lieut. Ryder, of the Danish Navy, the first explorer of
Hubbard bay. The peak is the highest that he sighted from his
farthest north.
Mount Operti, for Mr Albert Operti, the ‘‘Arctic artist,” who accompanied
Lieut. Peary on two expeditions. A cairn erected on the peak by
Prof. Gill in 1896 was named after Mr Operti. The peak was erro-
neously called Devil’s Thumb by Ryder. The real Devil’s Thumb is
in Alison bay.
Gill bay, for Prof. Gill, of the Cornell party of 1896, who ascended Mount
Operti, overlooking this bay.
Tarr bay, for Prof. Tarr, the leader of the Cornell party.
THE SAMOAN COCOANUT*
Samoa, the Navigators islands of the old geographies, is a
volcanic group, consisting of four principal islands, lying be-
tween 138° and 15° §. latitude and 168° and 173° W. longitude.
Samoa has an area of about 1,500 square miles, in size between
Rhode Island and Delaware. Apia is the single port of entry.
Savaii, the most westerly island, is much the largest, 45 miles
in length by 25 in breadth. Upolu, 12 miles to the east, is 40
miles in length by 15in breadth. Tutuila, 38 miles east of Upolu,
is 17 miles in length by 5 miles in breadth.
The entire export from Samoa for 1894, excluding bonded goods
and other re-exports, was $254,630; of this total, copra (dried
cocoanut meat) constituted $248,570. The single exportable
staple for which Samoa is eminently adapted, and the one upon
which all its business today rests and must for the future be
predicated, is the cocoanut (Cocos nucifera). It is to Samoa what
cotton and corn are to the United States; all that grain, meats, and
wool are to the Australasian colonies. The export of the copra
(the dried meat of the cocoanut) alone, save with trifling and in-
appreciable exception, represents the entire agricultural product-
ive capacity of Samoa, and through this source every dollar that
trade and commerce bring into these islands finds its way. Were
the cocoanut crop an absolute failure for a single year, the entire
volume of export of this Kingdom for that year would not amount
to more than $6,000. This illustration will adequately represent
the prime importance of this single article to the country and its
needs.
Like other primitive peoples depending largely on a single re-
source, the native Samoans have a tradition or myth concerning
the origin of their most useful plant—the cocoanut palm ; and the
myth is peculiarly interesting as an illustration of the inconse-
quence of ideas in primitive tradition. This myth, with many
others, was collected by Mr William Churchill, for some years
consul-general to Samoa, who has recently returned to Washing-
ton. To understand the myth it is necessary to remember that the
* This article, compiled by Gen. A. W. Greely, is composed mainly of excerpts from the
interesting and valuable report on Samoa made to the Department of State by Consul-
General James H. Mulligan, and published in Consular Reports, vol. 51, pp. 656-748.
12
THE SAMOAN COCOANUT 18
water vessels used by the Samoans consist of cocoanut shells in
pairs, connected by cords in such manner as easily to be slung
on a stick laid across the shoulders or conveniently carried in the
hand, the shells being emptied of their original contents by the
simple and effective method of knocking out the “ eyes,” drink-
ing the milk, and then permitting ants to consume the meat.
One of the apertures produced by removing the “eyes” serves
as the mouth of this natural jug, which is remarkably light,
strong, and durable, and has accordingly relieved the Samoans
of the necessity of developing the art of pottery-making. Al-
though so convenient in many ways, this type of water vessel is
not easily filled, particularly from a shallow stream or spring;
but the Samoans have invented a neat device, by which this
difficulty is easily overcome. The maiden who goes to the
Spring carries with her,a cup made from the stem end of a
cocoanut shell, with one of the ‘‘ eyes ” removed, so as to trans-
form it intoafunnel. Thisshe dips in the water with her finger
over the aperture, then, holding it over the neck of the cocoanut
jug, removes her finger and directs the stream into the carry-
ing vessel. These utensils—the pair of cocoanut jugs and
the cocoanut funnel-—have well-established names in the Sa-
moan tongue, and these names apply to no other objects, while
the utensils are never made of other material than cocoanut
shell. Now, according to the tradition, a village virgin of the
long ago went down to the spring for water. While dipping
with her cocoanut funnel and directing the stream into the
cocoanut vessel she perceived a slender, shadowy eel in the
water, and was so entranced by its beauty that she decided
to carry it home in the funnel cup and preserve it as a pet,
and this she proceeded to do. As time passed the creature
erew, and it became necessary to remove it to larger and
larger receptacles, until finally it became a terrific monster,
threatening to destroy the people. So the people gathered, and,
under pretense of placating the monster, supplied it so freely
with a Samoan beverage that it became intoxicated and slept.
Then they cut off the monster’s head, and, to prevent reclama-
tion of this useful organ when the creature should awaken, re-
moved it to a distance and buried it deeply in the earth. Their
virtue was duly rewarded when, some time later, the earth swelled
and opened, and a strange plant pushed out, delicate in form and
eraceful in movement as the eel in its infancy. And this mag-
ical plant was the first cocoanut tree.
14 THE SAMOAN COCOANUT
It was the cocoanut and cotton—chiefly the former—which
induced a large purchase of lands by a German firm and the
planting of some extensive plantations. Twenty to thirty years
ago, when the oil of the cocoanut began to be more largely em-
ployed in the manufacture of soaps, copra commanded in Europe,
where it found its only, and still finds its principal, market, very
remunerative prices, which in these times of decreased values in
everything are looked back toas phenomenal. These high prices
stimulated the planting of these thousands of acres of tossing
palms which reach on before the eye in unmatched beauty. But
the same stimulus which induced this manifestation of enter-
prise was felt on every tropic seashore. Millions of trees were
planted on the measureless shores of tropic Africa, America, and
Asia. ‘ All the shores of India, of the contiguous countries, of
the unnumbered islands that form the archipelagoes of the vast
western Paciftc, were transformed into stately groves in the keen
search for large profits.
These groves are but a few years past their early maturity.
Every year, with favorable season, they yield an increasing crop.
The usual reaction has followed. The same result in these latter
times of increased output in everything has been reached, and
overproduction is steadily bearing prices downward. In addition
came the introduction of cotton-seed as an oil-producer. This
tells upon Samoa in more than a direct way. No plantations
are being laid out. What has been said before in regard to other
productions and the great distances of the markets on either side
is applicable to the situation of Samoa with reference to its single
staple in redoubled force. Distance, to repeat, is synonymous
with freight rates. Other copra-making countries are situated
nearer tothe markets. A lower freight means a lower cost to the
purchaser. Again, asmall and semi-civilized population, indulg-
ing few artificial needs, offers a small market for imported goods ;
consequently ships to larger countries can carry a cargo out, to
return with a cargo of copra. Vessels cannot, save in exceptional,
rare cases, find a charter to Samoa. As a result, the Samoan
shipper of copra must pay the high rate of steamers regularly
calling or pay such a price for transportation as will justify a
sailing vessel to come, perhaps partially in ballast, to carry away
a cargo of copra.
In this respect the German firm enjoys an advantage, as it
does in many other things, for, doing for the country a rather
large business and supplying the German men-of-war with coal,
THE SAMOAN COCOANUT 15
it can so adjust its shipments as to offer a vessel a charter both
ways, to the great reduction of freight charges. It follows that
these advantages of the larger concern tend greatly to continue
in a measure the monopoly it once conspicuously enjoyed, to
the disadvantage of smaller shippers.
Copra is simply the meat of the cocoanut, dried in the sun,
generally by being spread on mats, until the greater part of the
watery juice is evaporated. For this purpose the nut is left to
thoroughly ripen—that is, until the white flesh, or kernel, which
lines the inside of the shell to the thickness of three-fourths of
an inch or more, reaches that degree of hardness found in cocoa-
nuts sold at the fruit stands in the United States. At this state
all the clear, palatable water which completely filled the interior
in the green stage is absorbed.
When a commercial demand for cocoanut oil first sprang up,
and shipments were small, it was customary to ship the pure oil
in casks, free of the wood or fibrous residuum. It was then bought
by the traders direct as oil from the natives, who secured a sepa-
ration of the oil by allowing the green copra to stand exposed
to the sun in canoes—troughs, as it were—until the heat and
decay set the oil free to collect at the bottom, to be afterwards
strained.
No oil has been so shipped for a great many years, and the
one mill set up for extracting the oil mechanically was not a
profitable venture. Cooperage could not be had here, and the
importation of casks was found too expensive. ‘Then the leak-
age in a long voyage in wooden packages was found to be very
great. For many years the oil cake obtained from cocoanuts
meta ready demand from dairymen and small farmers in Europe
as a food for cattle, but latterly it has fallen into disfavor, the
opinion obtaining that it is productive of derangement, if not of
disease. The decline of this use has to some extent affected the
price of copra. It was formerly estimated that the sale of the
oil cake paid the cost of the freight on the bulk copra.
Marseilles is the principal manufacturing point of cocoanut
oil, but large quantities are shipped to Liverpool, to ports on
the Baltic, and to San Francisco. The oil is used to some ex-
tent by admixture as a lubricant, but its chief use is found in
the manufacture of common and medium grade soaps. Its ten-
dency to become rancid—an objection which has not been en-
tirely overcome—is a serious hindrance to its employment in
many things, and precludes its use in the manufacture of the
16 THE SAMOAN COCOANUT
better grades of soap, for, free of odor as it may be at first, its
pungent rancidity is apt to become soon manifest. The odor of
copra, especially when stored in bulk or on shipboard, is of the
most disagreeable and nauseating character.
The accepted method of latter years is to plant the cocoanuts
in rows 40 feet apart, setting the trees 30 feet in the row. The
early planters placed the trees 20 feet apart each way, and many
years were required after they came into bearing to show that
the planting had been -done too closely. The nuts were small
and not so abundant as they were on trees scattered widely apart.
Taught by this observation, the groves were thinned by cutting
away a liberal percentage of the trees, to the considerable im-
provement of the yield. The cocoanut, of all things, loves the
sunshine and free circulation of the air. Indeed, to flourish in
perfection it should stand on the outer verge of the shore, its
roots striking into the sea water, its branches or palms ever
whipped and tossing in the stiff breeze of the trades. It finds
its habitat close to the sea, where the salt-impregnated air can
reach it freely and in abundance. Like some other members of
the vegetable kingdom—for instance, clover—it seems to take a
part of the elements of its growth from the air, but that air must
be at the high temperature of the tropics and saturated with the
salt moisture of the sea. The cocoanut is so much the creature
of the sunshine and the sea that it clearly manifests its removal
inland in a reduced crop of smaller nuts. The lowlands of the
beach on all these islands are more or less covered with the
groves, while on the mountains and highlands no tree is found.
The smaller size of the trees and the poorer yield are plainly to
be noticed on lands at an elevation of from 400 to 600 feet, situ-
ated at as short a distance as 2% and 3 miles from the shore.
Standing immediately on the beach, the tree inclines outward
over the water; growing inland, it points by its leaning ever in
the most direct way to the sea. .
The nuts ripen along throughout the year, hanging in pendent
clusters close in and around the stems of the palm branches,
which spread about on all sides and reach upward from the
clustered head forming the top of the tree. The nuts hanging
lowest ripen first, the young nuts continually appearing above
with the growth of the tree, and so the lower branches wither
and dry, falling away as the younger branches push out from
above. The body of the tree from the ground to the crown at
the top, a distance reaching up from 30 to most frequently 60
‘
’
a
:
.
; f
THE SAMOAN COCOANUT 17
and even 80 feet, is smooth and bare like a mere pole support-
ing a head of nuts and sweeping branches.
The trees come into bearing,in a small way, at the sixth year
on suitable soil, and are believed to reach the full limit of pro-
duction at from 15 to 20 years of age. Many groves known to
be 30 and 40 years of age are now bearing in undiminished
abundance, and they so continue to do to a great age. Persons
who profess to beable to determine the age of trees by the marks
left on the bark where the branches have successively fallen esti-
mate in this way that many still vigorous trees are 70 and 80
years of age. Natives who are peculiarly intelligent in so many
ways, but who appear to be, for reasons not difficult to under-
stand, peculiarly unable to keep account of time, say that the
cocoanut tree will live on beyond a hundred years. In all prob-
ability they live to a considerably greater age on the beach
lands when the trunk has escaped serious injury.
Springs, while frequently met with, are not abundant, and for
fresh water for all purposes reliance is had on the small streams
coming down from the mountains. With few exceptions, the
natives are not practical or provident enough to provide tanks
for the storage of rain water, as is universal among the whites ;
indeed, the formation and material of the roofs of native houses
would make it very difficult to catch rain water from such roofs.
As villages are often at considerable distances from natural sup-
plies of fresh water, and as these in the dry months of May, June,
and July often become exhausted, recourse is had to a very
barbarous method of supplementing the supply of fresh water.
Cocoanut trees nearly always incline at an angle more or less
oblique. On what may be termed the upper side of the tree, or
that opposite to the direction in which it inclines, large cup-
shaped notches, similar to those made in the long-leaved pine
for turpentine purposes, are cut. With every shower the water
trickles down the body of the tree ; being caught in these troughs
or notches, it serves to fill the cocoanut drinking shells or bottles,
the only vessels for holding water they employ ; for, except ina
few instances, they are slow to adopt buckets or other containing
vessels common in civilized life.
The cocoanut tree is capable of surviving a great deal of in-
jury ; in fact, it maintains its vigor despite such injuries as would
be ruinous to most trees of the temperate climes. ‘Trees are
often seen flourishing in undiminished vigor, although notched
half through in the way described in two and even three places.
2
18 THE SAMOAN COCOANUT
While these unpardonable injuries are sustained without ap-
parent detriment for a long time, they bring about the certain
result when the tree becomes old. The surface of the cut be-
comes decayed, and this, once set in, progresses on into the
tree until it can no longer sustain its weight or withstand the
high winds of the stormy season. All trees are by no means so
injured, but a sufficiently large proportion are thus mutilated in
time as to bear manifestly on the total production.
The habit of the cocoanut to reach out over the water seems
to be a provision of nature for its propagation and distribution.
The nuts, falling into the sea, will float for weeks in the bitterly
brackish waters of these tropic seas without injury to the ger-
minating quality. Once thrown upon the warm sands of a
beach or tossed by a wave upon the reef above the surface, it
soon puts forth its palm from the smaller end, while from the
round and larger end the tender roots strike into the soil or
decayed coral, as the case may be. Many lagoons which have
risen within living memory and which for years remained with-
out sign of vegetation are now covered with the cocoanut,
although hundreds of miles from other islands.
The value of the cocoanut is not confined to the single export
product, copra. The tree and its products are devoted to many
uses. The wood in the green state is very porous and spongy,
having consequently a great degree of resistance to rifle shot. In
the native wars in the past it was much employed in the build-
ing of defensive works. When thoroughly seasoned, it lasts for
a long time under ground and is valuable for all purposes for
which posts are employed. The oil enters in many forms into
the domestic uses of the natives. It forms the basis of all their
liniments and emollients in their simple but very rational phar-
macopeia. It is used for anointing the body, a practice univer-
sally observed and in such a climate by no means so unreasonable
as it might appear at the first glance. It has the effect of keep-
ing the skin soft and fine, protecting it from sunburn, which in
these latitudes of a vertical sun, without protection, becomes very
severe. It serves as well to repel mosquitoes and other small
flying insects. Highly perfumed with the odor of the Moso’oi,
it is the general dressing for the hair, in the care of which these
people are very particular and cleanly, as they are in nearly all
matters.
The nut is one of the standard articles of diet. Breadfruit,
taro, bananas, and cocoanuts form the staple articles of food,
THE SAMOAN COCOANUT ig)
ranking in importance in the order mentioned. The nuts are
eaten in the soft, but somewhat tough, gelatinous state, before
they reach the woody condition in which they are familiar to the
American people, when they are both palatable and exceedingly
nutritious. From what has been said, they are, of course, to be
had in this state of ripeness at all seasons.
In this condition they enter into the preparation of many
cooked dishes, the choicest of which is “ palusami,” a most de-
licious preparation. The water of the half-ripened nut, at the
state of ripeness mentioned, which so completely fills the cavity
that it spurts out on the shell being penetrated at the ‘‘ eye,”
forms a pleasant and wholesome drink, ample in quantity and
curiously cool. The whole shells, from which all the meat is re-
moved by being left first to decay and then by being shaken a
long time half filled with coarse sand, forms the universal water
bottle; cut in half, they are made into bowls and drinking cups.
The fiber, as has been said, furnishes all the sennet or braided
twine and rope for all uses. The leaves of the great branches,
which dry rapidly, are used for kindling, for torches in fishing,
and a small fire made in a bowl of burned clay set in the floor
of every house as a fireplace, when regularly fed with these long
and combustible leaves, furnishes the light to the household, of
a cheery and attractive kind. Again, the small ends of the long
branches are tied together in couples, and, the butts being flat
and heavy, they are hung across the combs of the roofs of houses
and serve admirably to hold the thatch in place against high
winds. These branches by a trick, as it were, are stripped down
either side and soon plaited into baskets; treated and plaited
much in the same way, they are made into the curtains, or
more properly sidings, by which all houses are inclosed and
protected.
Were the cocoanut tree by some destructive blight eliminated
from Samoa ata stroke, all its export would be at an immediate
end, and it would be difficult to see how its domestic life could
adjust itself to meet the calamity.
It is generally estimated that an acre of land should yield,
when the trees have reached the period of full bearing, about
half a ton of commercial copra. As in most other agricultural
estimates, in which, it seems, resuit remains so stubbornly at va-
riance with calculation, this one cannot be reconciled with the
crop had from any particular plantation. Still, managers and
owners adhere to the estimate and furnish a ready reason when
20 THE SAMOAN COCOANUT
the estimate fails of fulfillment. Green copra—fairly dried and
lable to much shrinkage—is worth, and has been for some years
past, in spite of a constantly declining foreign market, 11 cents
a pound when bought from natives. If the estimated produc-
tion held good, this ought to yield $15.75 per acre; but again
the estimate usually places the yield at about $12 per acre, pos-
sibly no great difference, as such things go. It will be observed
this allows nothing for labor.
Without attempting to reconcile the apparent differences, it is
said that a tree is on the average “ worth a shillinga year ”—
that is, yields a profit to that amount. Planting in the manner
Ihave mentioned, an acre would carry about forty-eight trees,
and if these yielded the estimated shilling each, or 48 shillings
in all, the calculation of $12 per acre profit would be quite well
sustained. However the estimates may conflict, however over-
drawn they may be, if any—and I am of opinion that, like all
similar calculations, they are more encouraging 1n theory than
reliable in practice—they at best do not show a greater profit per
acre than with ordinary prices—not those of the past year—may
be reasonably anticipated in any of the eastern central States
from corn or wheat. As a matter of fact, a very average crop of
tobacco, in any of the States growing that staple, would prove
more profitable than do the ideal cocoanut groves of the picture
islands in the books of travel. True, the trees once planted are —
producers far beyond the limit of the ordinary lifetime, while the
farm crops mentioned are to be laboriously cultivated year after
year. On the other hand, many profitless years elapse in wait-
ing for the trees to reach maturity. Even then, in a country
where wages are high, because everything else is as well, expense
claims a liberal share of the product, for “ making copra” is at
best a slow and laborious process, although there is but a single
planting and no cultivation. Back of all this must be remem-
bered the serious expense of clearing original bush.
Copra is continuously made, as the nuts ripen, from about the
middle of April till the middle of October or early part of No-
vember—that is, during the dry season—but the making is more
active in July, August, and September. Curing could be done,
so far as the supply of nuts goes, through the remainder of the
year, but the rains, varying from frequent to almost constant, do
not permit of drying.
A boy or man, generally the former, with a piece of sennet
about 18 inches in length, looped on either foot, will climb the
THE SAMOAN COCOANUT 21
slender, swaying tree with as much ease and rapidity as if it were
a ladder. The notched or corrugated surface of the bark, left
where branches have in time grown, from the ground up, catches
the bit of sennet between the feet, while the weight of the body
pressing downward clamps, as it were, the hollow of the ample
feet firmly on either side of the trunk. By this means the tree
is ascended by a series of jumps, as it were.
In some of the South Sea islands, where onerous taxes are levied
in return for the supposed protection afforded by European na-
tions which have annexed them, a boy is accounted as having
become a man, liable to the payment of capitation tax, when he
is able to climb a tree.
The climber, with a large knife, cuts away the matured nuts
which cluster close about the butts of the branches. As they fall
they are gathered into piles about the base of the tree. On the
plantations they are gathered into panniers slung on donkeys,
or into baskets swung on poles borne by two men—after the
style in which the tea boxes were carried with ease over the per-
pendicular mountains by the two little Chinamen on the old
blue china of our grandmothers—to be finally piled into great
heaps near the copra shed. The nuts are not husked, the thick
outer husk having become hard and brown like wood. They
are dexterously split in two by an axe and the hard white flesh
is more dexterously cut out witha large knife. Nothing remains
but to spread it on mats or boards in the sun. When cured itis
thrown into a heap in the shed, where it remains until sacked,
to be laboriously carried, sack by sack, by wading out to the
small boat, which in turn transfers it to the small schooner or
cutter lying in deeper water, and from this in turn it is again
taken to be stored elsewhere or transferred to the deep-sea vessel
for its final voyage.
Copra yields perhaps a greater percentage of oil than any other
of the great oil-producing staples, under the modern process,
whereby it is mixed with water, heated, and subjected to two
pressings, giving as high as 62 and 64 per cent of pure oil.
The cocoanut crop of last year (1894) was by far the largest
ever known in the islands; for this, like all other crops, has its
unaccountable years of great abundance and those of small pro-
duction, as little understood. The yield of last year is all the
more remarkable when it is borne in mind that the war of 18938,
which ended in the deportation of Mataafa, worked a great and
barbarous destruction of trees in the western district of this
22 THE SAMOAN COCOANUT
island, known as Aana. The extent of this increase, despite the
unfortunate destruction referred to, is illustrated by the fact that
while the export of copra in 1891 amounted to 4,842 tons, in
1892 to 4,871 tons, and in 1898 to 4,602 tons, it rose last year to
6,214 tons, an increase of 1,612 tons over the year before—an in-
crease of about 35 per cent over the years 1891 and 1892; yet
under the reduced price of late years the larger crops fail to
bring into the country as much money as did the far smaller
crops of former years.
Copra is bought from the natives, who make and sell it in
small quantities, selling as it is made almost entirely for trade—
canned meats, biscuits, prints, boat lumber, and other articles
suited to their few needs. Cash is rarely paid, but part cash is
often paid, and sometimes the price is required in money. In
the trading stations in other islands and in outlying districts
enormous profits are made; but frequently, the business being
small at best, the trader could not subsist or make a profit for
his principal, as he is generally an agent, unless such an advance
on cost price was made as would be regarded in a town in the
United States as prohibitory. In Apia, with its competition of
several stores and small dealers, prices are far more reasonable,
although they are far from being such as to threaten the dealers
with bankruptcy. From the political situation now existing;
and which, with mere intervals, has endured for the greater part
of three years, the natives of many of the most productive dis-
tricts dare not come to do their trading in Apia, and hence are
*thrown back in buying and selling upon the country trader. Of
course, in the end all the goods sold and all the copra made comes
from or finds its, way to Apia, so that from this cause its business
is not diminished ; yet this condition is distressing for such busi-
ness men as confine their transactions to Apia. With such houses
as are sufficiently extensive to have stations in the hostile dis-
tricts, which they keep suppled from central stores here, the
prevailing situation of affairs is very satisfactory, and it is not
unlikely that some of them are well satisfied with it and will not
fail, in a quiet way, aided by many advantages, to contribute to
its continuance.
Copra buyers pay now, as they have done for a few years past,
$1.25 to natives and $1.50 to white men, who sometimes make,
but generally buy from natives. The traders insist that the
natives bring the copra too green or conveniently overturn the
boat that the weight may be greater. To protect themselves
THE SAMOAN COCOANUT 23
against such imposition, as they term it, they have their scales
set to keep watchful guard over their interests or are provided
with a set of false weights—generally the latter—for the natives
watch the weighing with keen eyes, sharpened by sad experience.
I have heard this practice warmly defended; but it should be
said there are some honorable exceptions.
Recently in a trial had in the supreme court between a firm
of this place and one of their agents it was shown that the firm
had furnished the agent, along with the scales, a set of correct
and a set of false weights. This did not seem to excite surprise
or unfavorable comment, while the revelation of the fact was
regarded as amusing.
The increase in the American consumption of copra is very
gratifying. None was shipped to the United States in 1891 or
1892. In 1893 the value of copra shipped to San Francisco
amounted to $1,259; in 1894 to $30,400, and the declared value
of that shipped to the same port for the year ended June 30,
1895, was $45,486. Every steamer for the last-named port*now
takes a shipment. Consignments by this steam transportation
are made at a high freight rate. But one sailing vessel has
cleared from this port for any American port in a year. By
far the greater importations into these islands come from the
Australasian colonies, many reasons combining to produce this
result. Were there sufficient outward traffic from San Francisco
to employ sailing craft, such vessels could afford to carry copra
on the return voyage at such a rate as would largely increase the
shipments of Samoa’s only export to America; for steam rates
on so bulky an article over so long a distance approach the
prohibitory.
The latest advices (1895) from Liverpool quote copra at $52.50
per ton. This is thought to be too low commercially, and a re-
covery is expected to $58 or $60 per ton, and these latter figures
are thought to fairly represent the present real value. The
price has never before reached so low a figure. During 1870-
71 the price was about $115; as late as 1880 it was from $75
to $85; since which time, with occasional recoveries, it has con-
tinued to decline until it reached the figures stated.
The freight to England is about $12.642 per ton; to San Fran-
cisco, to which shipments are beginning to be made, $10 by
steam and from $6 to $8 by sail, when the few opportunities
occur. From Ceylon and places similarly situated charters can
be had for at least half these rates. In the era of high prices
24 THE MODERN MISSISSIPPI PROBLEM
$25 and $80 per ton carriage was freely paid, and the price paid
by traders in Apia was 23 to 2% cents per pound in buying.
But since 1878 seventeen years have elapsed. During all these
years thousands of trees then not planted have come to maturity
and are bearing, and thousands of those then in early bearing
have greatly increased their yield. As has been said, the crop
of last year (1894) was the largest in the history of the islands,
amounting in all, as stated, to 6,214 tons, and yet an-official re-
port made to the United States Government in 1878 gives the
export for that year as 6.775 tons, when in fact it could have been
not greatly in excess of half that quantity. The same report es-
timates the cotton crop at 2,300 bales. Such is a sample of the
unreliability of the statistics which have so misinformed the
world as to this group; upon such unstable foundations i S{0)
many of the roseate theories as to their future.
THE MODERN MISSISSIPPI] PROBLEM
By W J McGusr
The great river of the continent has been the object of intelli-
gent inquiry for a century, and of scientific investigation for half
as long. The earlier inquiries related chiefly to the river as a
medium for inland navigation, and the problem of interior water
transportation in America has wrought itself out largely on this
river with its principal tributaries. The history of the solution
of the problem is significant in its bearings on future industry
and commerce.
The canoe of the Indian and the pirogue of the pioneer were
followed by the scows or “ flatboats ”’? which marked the intro-
duction of real commerce by means of the river ; and before the
introduction of steam the custom grew up of building “ flatboats ”
along the upper waters, lading them with coal, grain, and other
produce, floating them with the current to New Orleans, and
there abandoning them, while the shippers returned overland.
About the end of 1811 the first practical steamboat on the waters
embouching through the Mississippi suffered disaster during its
first voyage in consequence of the New Madrid earthquake; but
the utilization of steam power proceeded rapidly, and within a few
years steam navigation was established and the river became a
route for numberless craft carrying freight and passengers against
pea,
THE MODERN MISSISSIPPI PROBLEM 25
the current nearly as rapidly as with it. Thus began the palmy
period of the Mississippi as a line of commercial activity ; towns
were planted on the upper river and along the Ohio, and especially
below the confluence ; Columbus, Hickman, Vicksburg, Grand
Gulf, Natchez, Bayou Sara, Port Hudson, and a dozen other
towns whose names are half forgotten, sprang up along the river-
side and promised to become metropoles, while the passenger
packets became floating palaces, representing the acme of luxury
in American travel. Knowing nothing better, merchants and
shippers were content to endure the interruption of traffic by
floods, and were too dazzled by glowing anticipations to note the
building of bars between their warehouses and the main channel
or the undermining of their town-sites by the ever-shifting stream.
Then came the locomotive and railway, affording the means of
swifter and surer transportation, and the river commerce began
to wane, relatively if not absolutely ; a third of the river towns
were deserted by the stream, a quarter were invaded by the cur-
rent, and only a third or a quarter were reached by the railways
and permitted to thrive under the new conditions. For a time
the river held the balance of power between rival lines and modes
of transportation, and thus controlled tariffs (Gndeed this is in
some measure true today), but successively larger and larger
shares of the traffic were diverted. Recent statistics show that
there is still a considerable transportation of coal, grain, and
other bulky and indestructible commodities by the river, though
the ratio of river carriage to rail carriage is steadily decreasing ;
today the flourishing river towns are also railway towns, and
depend primarily on land transportation for their commercial
supremacy ; today the old-time floating palace is but a memory,
and today only two, or five, or possibly ten packets pass the point
where twenty passed a quarter-century ago.
Meantime the inquiries concerningthe great river have changed.
Today the practical importance of the lower Mississippi lies in
its fertile bottom-lands and in the agricultural and commercial
industries which they support; and since these are affected by
floods and other fluctuations of the river, the water stages have
become paramount as subjects of investigation. The researches
concerning the regimen of. the river began while it yet retained
prime importance as a navigable waterway, and yielded one of
the earlier scientific classics of America in the monograph by
Humphreys and Abbot, issued in 1861. These hydrologists
were concerned chiefly with normal conditions rather than ab-
26 THE MODERN MISSISSIPPI PROBLEM
normalities, with means rather than extremes; and their mas-
terly treatise remains the guide of students throughout the world.
The principles developed by them were subsequently discussed
and apphed by an important federal commission; while the
problem of maintaining an open passage from the river to the
gulf for vessels of deep draft was solved experimentally by Eads —
in a manner eminently satisfactory to long-distance commerce.
As the vast and fertile bottom-lands attracted the planter they
were gradually reclaimed, the plantations extending quite to the
river banks ; and to meet local and temporary needs (at least in
part in every case). the natural levees built by the river were
raised artificially to protect plantations and towns. These levees
interfered with the natural regimen of the stream in some
measure; they.checked the annual flooding of the bottoms, such
as has enriched the valley of the Nile,and at the same time pre-
vented the river from shifting to the lower grounds as its bed
was built above the level of stability; in short, they initiated
the transformation of the waterway from a natural river to an
artificial canal. A direct and evident consequence of the change
was to render the floods more disastrous when the stream burst
its partly artificial barriers, and this led to a demand for build-
ing the levees higher and higher and extending them further and ©
further along its banks; it also led to recognition of the impor-
tance of floods as agencies affecting the material development of
an extensive and rich section of the country. So the burning
problem of the Mississippi today is not that of navigation, not
even that of normal regimen asa great river, but that of the floods
to which the stream is subject.
Accordingly certain recent researches of the Weather Bureau
are most apposite and timely.* The report in which they are
made public is a straightforward and largely statistical presenta-
tion of the facts pertaining to the floods of the Mississippi, espe-
cially the notable flood of 1897. The material is arranged in four
sections. The first relates to “ The River and Basin,” and sets
forth the physical characteristics of the entire watershed as
ascertained from various sources. ‘The second section treats of
‘Normal Precipitation and Drainage ” throughout the basin as
determined from the records of the Weather Bureau, which com-
prise practically all the meteorologic observations extant. Then
* Floods of the Mississippi River. Prepared under direction of Willis L. Moore, Chief
of Weather Bureau. By Park Morrill, Forecast Official in Charge of River and Flood
Service (U.S. Department of Agriculture, Weather Bureau. Bulletin E). Washington,
1897. 4°, pp. i-vi + 1-79, pls. (i, ii unnumbered +-) 1-58.
OUR FOREIGN TRADE 27
follows “ The River in Flood,” in which the relation between
precipitation (including the fall and melting of snow) in every
part of the basin and the ensuing floods is discussed quantita-
tively. ‘The fourth section deals with the “Spring Flood of
1897,” and applies the principles and relations developed in
the more general discussion. ‘The text is amply illustrated
by means of charts and diagrams. The discussions are brief,
deductive in character, and limited to exposition of the facts
recorded; they do not (perhaps unfortunately) extend to the
consideration of the levee problem, or to that gradual increase
in the frequency and height of floods indicated by the figures—
especially those of table xviii, pages 34-37—and undoubtedly
attending the heightening of the levees, whether as cause, as
effect, or fortuitously—indeed hardly a word appears in the
report concerning that association of levees and floods which
constitutes one of the important American problems of the day.
The carefully drawn flood-map (plate 2) is especially inter-
esting in view of the disasters still in the minds of patrons of
the press; and it is interesting to geographers as giving a bird’s-
eye view of features recording stages in the development of the
region. Among these may be noted the lnear arrangement of
alluvial belts, especially in the upper third of the embayment,
an arrangement strongly suggesting the initiation of mountain
corrugation ; also the lifted area about New Madrid, which was
heaved some twenty feet above the general level of the bottom
during the earthquake of 1811-715; and, too, the diversion of the
flood from the course of the river in large districts.
OUR FOREIGN TRADE
HKvery nation, just as every individual, finds it necessary to
sell some of its own products and to purchase others from for-
elgn nations. Some nations find it necessary to purchase more
than others, since some produce only a few articles, while others
produce almost everything they require. Thus Australia pro-
duces mainly mutton and wool, and finds it necessary therefore
to exchange these for other necessities of life. Onthe other hand,
the United States, which has a wide range of climate, produces
most of the commodities which her people require, and her for-
eign trade is therefore by no means as great in proportion to her
population as that of many other countries.
bo
(og)
THE PRESIDENT OF THE SOCIETY
During the fiscal year 1896-97, the sum of her exports and
imports hada value of 1,816 million dollars. Large as this sum
is.itis small compared with the foreign trade of the United King-
dom, France, or Germany. Of this great sum,765 millions, or
about two-fifths, were imports. The difference between them,
the “ balance of trade,” was in our favor to the extent of not less
than 286 million dollars. In other words, we sold 286 million
dollars’ worth more than we bought. The principal articles
which were sold were cotton, wheat, meat, petroleum, tobacco,
and manufactured goods. Those purchased were mainly sugar,
coffee, and manufactured goods.
In carrying on this enormous traffic the port of New York
plays by far the most important part. Just about one-half of -
our foreign traffic passes under the shadow of the Goddess of
Liberty on Bedloesisland. Two-thirds of our imports and moré
than one-third of our exports pass through New York. That
city is probably the most important seaport in the world, for to
this foreign trade is to be added a much larger amount of do-
mestic trade by sea.
Next to New York in foreign trade is Boston, which receives
one-eighth of the imports and sends out one-tenth of the exports
of the country. New Orleans holds the next place. Although
she receives but two per cent of the imports, she sends out ten
per cent of the exports, which consist mainly of cotton Phila-
delphia is fourth in rank, with six per cent of the imports and
four per cent of the exports. Then comes Baltimore, which,
though she receives but one per cent of the country’s imports,
sends out eight per cent of her exports. On the Pacific coast
San Francisco is the only port which as yet has any prominence
in foreign trade, and her share in it is but four per cent of the
exports and imports. The Atlantic and Gulf coasts take about
seven-eighths of the entire trade, and the Pacific coast only about
one-sixteenth, an amount equal to that of the Great Lakes.
EeGe
THE PRESIDENCY OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
5 © Clim
At a meeting of the Council of the National Geographic So-
ciety, held December 31, Prof. Alexander Graham Bell, LL. D.,
etc., was elected President of the Society.
a
GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE™
Eleventh Annual Report of the Interstate Commerce Commission. Advance
copy withoutappendices. Pp. 150. Washington: Government Print-
ing Office. 1897.
It was to be expected that the first report of the Interstate Commerce
Commission issued after the rendering of the recent far-reaching decis-
ions of the Supreme Court would be an interesting one, and such it proves.
The Interstate Commerce Commission has never claimed rate-making
authority, but from its organization until early in 1897 it acted in accord-
ance with the belief that when the legality of a rate, established in the
first instance by a carrier subject to the act to regulate commerce, had
been questioned by those interested, and the issue determined adversely
to the carrier upon facts and arguments brought out during a formal in-
vestigation and hearing, of which both parties had had suitable notice
and at which they had had opportunity to introduce testimony and cross-
examine witnesses, it then became its duty, not merely to declare the
particular rate excessive or unreasonable, and consequently unlawful, but,
in addition, to decide what rate would be right, and subsequently to en-
force, in the manner provided in the law, the latter rate. Congress, it
was supposed by the Commission, had by implication granted this power
as a necessary incident of express authority to execute and enforce an act
requiring that all rates shall be reasonable and just. In a decision ren-
dered during May, 1897, the United States Supreme Court declared this
to be a misconception of the purpose and meaning of the act, and
that Congress did not confer upon the Commission the limited authority
to prescribe future charges which it had supposed itself to possess. <Ac-
cepting this interpretation, the Commission believes that the same rule
will be found, when occasion arises, to leave that body without authority,
in the absence of amendatory legislation, to enforce any order to prevent
unjust discrimination or undue preference in the future. The result is
thus stated in the report:
“The other sections and provisions of the law are in aid of and
were intended to make effective the first three sections, which re-
late to and were intended to make unlawful and to prohibit unrea-
sonable charges, unjust discriminations, and undue preferences ;
and without authority to make these three sections effective in the
future practically all the Commission can do toward executing and
enforcing the vital provisions of the act is to inquire into wrongs
done in the past and report the result of its investigation to itself.”
The inadequacy of so restricted a remedy for the evils incident to cur-
rent methods of railway rate-making is obvious. The farmers who pro-
duce grain, cotton, live stock, and other commodities entering largely
into interstate commerce are not as a rule shippers. They sell to dealers
upon the basis of current rates, whether reasonable or the reverse, and
29
30 GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
the latter are the actual shippers. If the reasonableness of previous
charges only may be investigated, the remedy is necessarily limited to the
collection of damages representing the difference between the rate actu-
ally charged and that which would have been reasonable and just. The
only person in a position to collect these damages would be the one who
had made the actual shipment, and to whom, having bought upon the
basis of the rate paid, the amount collected would constitute an addi-
tional and unreasonable profit.
In the ‘‘ Louisville and Nashville case,” one of the earliest decided by
the Commission, it was declared that the dissimilar circumstances justi-
fying a higher charge for the short than for the long haul, under the fourth
section of the law, might exist, (a) as a result of the competition of car-
riers by water; (6) asa result of competition by carriers not subject to
the interstate commerce law ; and (c), in rare and peculiar cases, as a re-
sult of competition of carriers subject to the law. Subsequently it was
laid down that if the rate for the longer haul was controlled by unregu-
lated competition, the carrier might make a lower charge, to meet such
competition, without application to the Commission ; but where the justi-
fying competition alleged to exist was that of carriers subject to the law,
application must be made to the Commission for permission to promul-
gate the lower rate, under the proviso permitting the Commission in
special cases to make exemption from the general rule of the long and
short haul clause. During November, 1897, the Supreme Court. of the
United States decided that competition of railway carriers subject to the
act must be considered in cases arising under the fourth section, and that
where it exists sufficiently to constitute a controlling force the cireum-
stances are dissimilar. If therefore the Commission find the existence
of such competition to a controlling degree, the rule of the fourth section
is inapplicable. The Commission is apparently of the opinion that this
construction practically eliminates the long and short haul clause from the
law.
The Commission frankly acknowledges that its members are unable to
agree as to the wisdom of authorizing pooling contracts. ‘‘A majority,”
says the report, ‘‘think it must occasion some improvement in the rate
situation at almost all points, and that it might altogether amend it at
many points.” Though reminding the public that whatever beneficial
results pooling may accomplish must be secured through the restriction
of competition, a majority of the Commission are inclined to recommend
that the experiment, surrounded by suitable safeguards, be tried. Some-
thing, it is admitted, must be done, and the insistence of the railways,
whose officers are in a situation wisely to judge, that this is the proper
remedy is entitled to careful attention. Protest is entered against the
practice, akin to special pleading, of quoting a single sentence from some
report of the Commission as evidence of an opinion favorable to pooling.
The Commission is unanimous that to reverse the effect of the ‘‘ Trans-
Missouri decision,” to repeal the anti-pooling clause and enact in its
place a pooling bill, would be little better than a crime against the people,
unless at the same time the Commission or some other tribunal was in-
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY ol
vested with adequate powers of supervision and control. The following
paragraphs are important enough to be given in full:
‘‘Tt should be further said that, while a majority of the Com-
mission have felt that it would be wise to adopt the remedy sug-
gested by the carriers in the present emergency, we do not admit
that Congress is altogether powerless to correct this evil without
the adoption of that means. The difficulty with enforcing the
present law is not in its criminal features, which, with some slight
changes, are well enough and strong enough, but in obtaining evi-
dence of violations of that law. When those who have knowledge
of what is actually done are put upon the witness stand, they re-
fuse to disclose the truth.”
“Since these witnesses will not state the fact as it exists, some
means must be provided of otherwise ascertaining that fact. So
jong as these gentlemen refuse to tell, it is necessary to provide a
way by which the Government can find out for itself. If the in-
terstate carriers of this country were compelled to keep their ac-
counts in some prescribed form, and if the agents of the United
States had the right at. any time to inspect those accounts, or to
take charge of one or more of the stations of a carrier when so ad-
vised, the effect must be to greatly diminish these practices. This
kind of supervision would be no more rigorous than that under
which national banks now exist.”
The report also discusses the work of the Commission during the cur-
rent year, uniform classification of freight, through routes and through
rates, procedure in the courts on applications for the enforcement of the
orders of the Commission, railway statistics, and other matters of im-
portance. Previous recommendations in regard to legislation on these
subjects are renewed. Attention is called to the recommendation of the
Statistician in regard to the establishment of a bureau of railway statis-
tics and accounts, and to the endorsement of the plan by the latest con-
vention of state railroad commissioners. H. T. Nrwcome.
PROCEEDINGS OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
SOCIETY, SESSION 1807-98
Special Meeting, November 12, 1897.—Vice-President Greely in the chair.
Dr Sheldon Jackson gave an illustrated lecture on Alaska: a Trip to the
Yukon and Klondike Gold Fields.
Excursion to the Naval Observatory, November 13, 1897.—Saturday even-
ing excursion to the Naval Observatory by invitation of Commander
Charles H. Davis, U.S. N.; attendance, about 400. Reception by the
Superintendent and officers in the library. Parties were formed, in
charge of officers and assistants, to visit the various departments and in-
spect the instruments and the magnetic observatory. On the return, the
members and their guests called at ‘‘ Twin Oaks” to pay their respects to
President Hubbard, who had been prevented from attending the meeting
by indisposition.
Regular Meeting, November 19, 1897.—Mr Henry F. Blount in the chair.
The report of the committee appointed to audit the accounts of the
ft
32 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
Treasurer was read and accepted. Papers were read, with lantern illus-
trations, by Mr Arthur P. Davis on The Pollution of Potomac Water, its
- Sources and Extent, and on The Effects and Remedies, by Passed ASSIS
-Surgeon E. K. Sprague, of the Marine Hospital Service.
Special Meeting, November 26, 1897.—Mr W J McGee in the chair. Mr
W. H. Holmes, of the National Museum, gave an illustrated lecture on
The Ruined Cities of Yucatan.
Regular Meeting, December 3, 1897.—Mr W J McGee inthe chair. Papers
were read by Mr F. W. Hodge, of the Bureau of American Ethnology,
on Acoma and the Enchanted Mesa, and by Dr Walter Hough on Indian
Medicinal Plants of the Southwest. The first paper was illustrated by
lantern slides.
Special Meeting, December 10, 1897.— Vice-President Greely in the chair.
Professor E. A. Grosvenor, of Amherst College, gave an illustrated lecture
on The Greek and the Turk: the Product of Geographic Environment.
EvLecrions.—New members have been elected as follows:
November 18.—C. F. Frederick Adam, 8S. M. Becker, R. G. Campbell,
Dr O. F. Cook, Miss Amelia R. Ghenies, AG Coolidge, R. B. Dashiell,
U.S. N., Assistant Naval Constructor Devaidl G. Fairchild, Edward M.
Fowler, George R. Ide, Miss Mary E. O’Connor, Lieut. J. G..Ord, U.S. A.,
Hon. Ellis H. Roberts, Alfred G. Safford, John Sherman, Dr Andrew H
Smith, Mrs Sterling H. Smith, Walter T. Swingle, Mrs Horatio N. Taplin,
Miss Marion Thatcher, Mrs Julia C. Townsend, Rev. D. ©. Weston, D.D.,
J. W. Witten, J. E. Woodman.
November 24.—Mrs E. F. Adams, Albert Carry, Dr J. B. Gregy Custis,
Hon. J. L. Davenport, Miss Adelaide Fuller, Mrs E. C. Hobson, Miss
Annie E. Jobnston, Rev. R. H. McKim, D.D., John Meigs, Jr., Gen. J. K.
Mizner, U.S. A., Mrs W. H. Osborn, Mrs M. C. Peabody, J. A. Pitman,
George W. Rouzer, Dr E. K. Sprague, 8S. Sugenheimer, Mrs Adelia L. 8.
Thombs, Miss Ellen A. Vinton, Sanford N. Whitwell.
PorruGurEsE East Africa. <A concession has been granted for the.con-
struction of a railway from Beira to Tete, with the object of developing
the Tete coal-fields.
British Cenrran Arrica. The trade of Chinde, the port of British
Central Africa, at the mouth of the Zambesi, is said to be increasing rap-
idly. Chinde is now in direct telegraphic communication with Zomba
and Blantyre.
TransyAAL. The Industrial Commission reports that during 1896 out
of the 185 gold mines in the Transvaal 79 produced gold to the value of
£8,603,821. The remaining 104 produced no gold, most of them being
merely in process of development. Only 25 companies declared divi-
dends, the aggregate amount thus paid being £1,718,781.
me NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
as E maine i ti
CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RY.
HE F. F. V. LIMITED is one of the finest trains hauled over any railway track in America. It runs
solid between Cincinnati and New York, the route from Washington being over the Pennsylvania
system. It has every modern convenience and appliance, and the dining-car service has no superior if
it has an equal. The road-bed is literally hewed out of the eternal rocks; it is ballasted with stone
from one end to the other; the greater portion is laid with one-hundred-pound steel rails, and although
curves are numerous in the mountain section, the ride is as smooth as over a Western prairie.
One of the most delightful rides in all the route is that through the New River valley. The
mountains are just low enough to be clad with verdure to the very top, and in the early spring every
variety of green Known to the mixer of colors can be seen, while the tones in autumn take on all the
tange from brown to scarlet.
These facts should be borne in mind by the traveler between the East and the West.
H. W. FULLER, Genl/. Pass. Agent, Washington, D. C.
SZ
' CALIFORNIA..
OF course you expect to go there this winter. Let
me whisper something in your ear. Be sure that
the return portion of your ticket reads viathe . . .
Northern Pacific-Shasta Route.
Then you will see the grandest mountain scenery in
the United States, including It. Hood and [It. Rainier,
each more than 14,000 feet high, [It. St. Helens,
Mt. Adams, and others. You will also be privileged
to make side trips into the Kootenai Country, where
such wonderful new gold discoveries have been made,
and to Yellowstone Park, the wonderland not only of
the United States, but of the World. Park season
begins June Ist each year. Close railroad connections
made in Union Station, Portland, for Puget Sound
Ai Aids
cities and the east, via Northern Pacific.
CHAS. S. FEE,
ee. acuuenewannen
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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Write for Map Folders.
A. S. THWEATT, Eastern Passenger Agent, 271 Broadway, New York, N. Y.
J. C. HORTON, Passenger Agent, 201 E. Baltimore Street, Baltimore, Md.
L. S. BROWN, General Agent, 705 Fifteenth St. N. W., Washington, D. C.
J. H. WINGFIELD, Passenger Agent, Norfolk, Va.
S. H. HARDWICK, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Atlanta, Ga.
Cc. A. BENSCO’ TER, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Chattanooga, Tenn.
W. H. TAYLOE, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Louisville, Ky.
J. M. CULP, Traffic Manager. W. A. TURK, General Passenger Agent.
The Mutual Life Insurance Co.
OF NEW YORK,
RICHARD A. McCURDY, President,
Is the Largest Insurance Company in the World.
The Records of the Insurance Department of the State of New
York SHOW THAT The Mutual Life
Has a Larger Premium Income - - ~- ($39,000,000)
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A Greater Amount of Assets - - ($235,000,000)
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Writes More New Business~ - - - ($136,000,000)
And Pays More to Policy-holders - ~- ($25,000,000 in 1896)
THAN ANY OTHER COMPANY.
It has paid to Policy-holders since
its organization, in 1843, | ; - §$437,005,195.29
ROBERT A. GRANNISS, Vice-President.
WALTER R. GILLETTE, General Manager. FREDERIC CROMWELL, Treasurer,
ISAAC F. LLOYD, Second Vice-President. EMORY McCLINTOCK, Actuary.
WILLIAM J. EASTON, Secretary.
“NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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Ticket Agents everywhere sell tickets over the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Ry.
GEO. H. HEAFFORD,
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST.
The only American magazine devoted to the science of Anthropology in
all its branches is THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST, published at the
National Capital. This journal is now in its eleventh year of increasing
usefulness.
No magazine ever published on the Western continent is such a
storehouse of authentic information concerning ARCHEOLOGY, ETHNOL-
OGy, FOLK-LORE, TECHNOLOGY, SocioLoGy, HIsToRY, SOMATOLOGY,
PsycHOLOGY, PHILOSOPHY, and PHILOLOGY. Its contributions to our
knowledge of these subjects, especially in so far as they relate to the
American Indians, past and present, are of world-wide authority. Its
contributors are America’s foremost scholars.
Is your name on the subscription list of the ANTHROPOLOGIST? -If
not, it should be. No one interested in anthropology in any of its branches
can afford to be without it. Swdbscribe today. A new volume begins with
the January number.
A bibliography of the anthropologic literature of the world is one of its, features.
Handsomely Printed—Abundantly Illustrated.
Published Monthly—Two Dollars a Year.
Volume XI Begins with January, 1898.
ADDRESS : THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST,
1804 Columbia Road, Washington, D. C.
COMMENCED JANUARY, 1888. TWO VOLUMES PER YEAR.
THE AMERICAN GEOLOGIST,
139s;
The Oldest Exclusively Geological Magazine Published in America
TERMS.
To Subscribers in the United States, Canada and Mexico............. ... $3.50 a year
To other Subscribers in the Postal Union.......... Viera aetnyein Wee tte wot gia Ge 4.00 a year
The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST is issued monthly from the office of publication at Minne-
apolis, Minnesota, United States of America. Twenty volumes are completed; the twenty-
first began with the number for January, 1898.. The magazine has received a cordial
welcome and a generous support from leading geologists everywhere and it is now
recognized as the exponent of the rapid geological progress that is taking place on
the continent of North America, including Canada, the United States and Mexico. No-
where else in the world are geologic phenomena exhibited on a more extensive scale
and nowhere else are results attained of greater economic and scientific importance.
The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST lays before its readers from month to month the latest
results of geological work. In addition to the longer papers it gives synopses of recent
geological publications and brief notes on current geological events.
THE GEOLOGICAL PUBLISHING CO.,
MInneAPoris, MInn,
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MONOGRAPHS
On the PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE EARTH’S SURFACE, designed especially to supply to teachers and
students of geography fresh and interesting material with which to supplement the regular text-book.
LIST OF MONOGRAPHS COMPRISING VOLUME I:
GENERAL PHYSIOGRAPHIC PROCESSES - - - - - =
GENERAL PHYSIOGRAPHIC FEATURES - - - - - - ty. W. Powell
PHYSIOGRAPHIC REGIONS OF THE UNITED STATES - - -
BEACHES AND TIDAL MARSHES OF THE ATLANTIC COAST Prot. N. S. Shaler
PRESENT AND EXTINCT LAKES OF NEVADA - - - - Prof. I. C. Russell
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS—NORTHERN SECTION - - - Bailey Willis
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS—SOUTHERN SECTION - - - C. Willard Hayes
MrT. SHASTA—A TYPICAL EXTINCT VOLCANO - - - - J. S. Diller
THE NEW ENGLAND PLATEAU - - - - - - - Prof. W. M. Davis
NIAGARA FALLS AND ITS HISTORY - - - - - - G. K. Gilbert
Price for one set of ten monographs, $1.50. Five sets to one address, $6.00. Single monographs, 20c.
Remit with order to AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY,
New York - Cincinnati 5 Chicago
Ripans Tabules assist digestion.
TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM
An International Quarterly Journal
Edited by L. A. BAUER
With the Co-operation of Eminent Magneticians
ass the March, 1897, issue, this Journal, devoted exclusively to Terrestrial Magnetism and allied
subjects, such as Karth Currents, Auroras, Atmospheric Electricity, etc., entered on its second
volume. The hearty co-operation extended by the workers in this promising field of investigation, as
abundantly shown by the numbers thus far issued, has made this Journal the international organ for
making known the latest achievements. The magnetic needle has become such a promising instrument
of research, not only in terrestrial, but in cosmical physics, that this Journal appeals to a large class of
investigators. The geographer, the geologist, the astronomer, the meteorologist—all are interested in
the development of the subject of terrestrial magnetism. It should therefore receive their support.
Among the contributors of the main articles in the past have been Messrs. Barus, Borgen, Chree,
Eschenhagen, Littlehales, Ricker, Schmidt, Schuster, and de Tillo.
Future numbers will contain:
‘‘The Earth, a Great Magnet,”’
By Dr. J. A, FLEMING.
‘‘ The Electrification of the Atmosphere,’’
By Pror. ALEXANDER MCADIE.
‘¢ The Height of the Aurora,’’
By Pror. CLEVELAND ABBE.
‘¢The Distribution of Magnetic Observatories,’’
(Illustrated),
By Pror. MAX ESCHENHAGEN,
ete:; etc:
_ The size of the Journal is royal octavo, a volume embracing about 200 pages. Domestic subscription
price: Two dollars; single numbers, fifty cents. Foreign subscription price: Nine shillings, nine
marks, or eleyen francs. Address;
TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM,
' The University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, Ohio.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
\ : 3 SX
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; A.S. THWEKATT, Hastern Passenger Agent, 271 Broadway, New York, N. Y¥
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I. S. BROWN, General Agent, 705 Fifteenth St. N. W., Washington, D. C.
J. H. WINGFIELD, Passenger Agent, Norfolk, Va.
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H. TAYI,OB, Assistant General Passenger. Agent, Louisville, Ky.
. M. CULP, Traffic Manager. i - W. A. TURK, General Passenger Agent.
The Mutual Life Insurance Co,
OF NEW YORK,
RICHARD A. McCURDY, President,
Is the Largest Insurance Company in the World.
e Records of the Insurance Department of the State of New
-York SHOW THAT The Mutual Life
das a Larger Premium Income - -_ - ($39,000,000)
fore Insurance in Force _- - - - - ($918,000,000)
Greater Amount of Assets. - - - - ($235,000,000)
rger Annual Interest Income - -~ - ($9,000,000)
ites More New Business - - - - ($186,000,000)
ays More to Policy-holders -. - ($25,000,000 in 1896)
THAN ANY OTHER COMPANY.
aS aid to Policy-holders since |
its a in 1843, lpn ria coats ar
ILLETTE, General Manager. FREDERIC CROMWELL, Treasurer.
Becond Vice-President. EMORY McCLINTOCK, Pasterngte
rh PASIAN 1: area Seererny
OF course you expect to go there this winter.
me whisper seems | in your ear.
the return oe of your ticket reads via the wee
each more ae 14,000 ee high, Mt.
lt. Adams, and others. You will also i ee leg
to make side. trips into the Kootenai con
the. United States, Bat pe ‘the World.
begins June Ist each year.
amade in Union Station, Portland, for
cities and the east, via Northern Pacific.
4 AN ILLUSTRATED--MONTHLY
|. Haitor: JOHN HYDE
Associate Editors ,
"WJ McGEE \ HENRY-GANNETT
C©\HART MERRIAM ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE
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GRAHAM BELL. \ PRESIDENT D./C. GILMAN.
$HN. GEO, M. STERNBERG, U.S. A. (MAJOR JOHN W. POWELL.
)LANGLEY, — Vea aa “HON A. R. SPOFFORD.
~WILSQN. | pete oh ON: JOHN W. ROSS.
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SHED BY THE\NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
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AWS Company, 39 AND 41 Cuamuprs Streer, New York
PR A OVALE. sh“ | | GENERAL A. W. GREELY, Ur 8. A.
National Geographic Society
ORGANIZED, JANUARY, 1888
PRESIDENT
ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL
Vick-PRESIDENTS
MARCUS BAKER A. W. GREELY .
WILLIAM H. DALL C. HART MERRIAM
G. K. GILBERT HERBERT G. OGDEN
TREASURER
HENRY GANNETT
RECORDING SECRETARY CORRESPONDING SECRETARY
F. H. NEWELL ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE
MANAGERS
CHARLES J. BELL EVERETT HAYDEN
H. F. BLOUNT — JOHN HYDE
F. V. COVILLE W J McGEE
DAVID T. DAY W. B. POWELL
SECRETARY’S OFFICE
Room 55, Ohio Bank Building, Twelfth and G Sts. N.W., Washington
The National Geographic Society, the object of which is the increase and diffusion
of geographic knowledge, has a paying membership of 1,500. Its membership is not
restricted to practical geographers, but is open to any person in good standing who may
be sufficiently interested in its work to seek admission. The annual subscription is: for
active members, $5.00 per annum ; for corresponding members, $2.00 perannum. Active
members pay also an entrance fee of $2.00 on election. Tae Nationa GrograPHic
MaGazineE is sent regularly to all members, both active and corresponding.
Donations for the founding of Prize Medals and Scholarships are
respectfully solicited.
om
a i i
VOL. IX, 1898, PL. 2
NAT. GEOG. MAG.
National Geographic Magazine
Vou. IX FEBRUARY, 1898 No. 2
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
An Address delivered at the Memorial Services held at the Church
of the Covenant, Washington, D. C., December 13, 1897,
By Rev. Treunis 8. Hamuiy, D. D.
Our Capital city has lost its first citizen in civil life. The
country and the world have lost a benefactor. Science, art, in-
vention, discovery, the legal profession, philanthropy, broad-
minded and generous culture, intelligent and refined hospitality
are distinctly impoverished. Friendship of a pure, unselfish,
persistent sort will miss a noble exemplar. Family life of the
ideal type will have one less illustration among us. We areall
personally bereaved today, and feel it our right to mingle our
sorrows even with the more intimate grief of kindred, as we
gather here to pay our last tribute of respect, reverence, and love.
Gardiner Greene Hubbard was descended from an educated
and gentle ancestry on both sides for many generations. Phys-
ically, mentally, and morally his heredity, and so his personal
nature, were of the best. He was bornin Boston August 25, 1822.
His father, Samuel, an alumnus of Yale and a doctor of laws
from Yale, Dartmouth, and Harvard, was an accomplished law-
yer, and during his last years a member of the Supreme Court
of Massachusetts. His grandfather, William, was a successful
merchant. Back of this the family is English, its first repre-
sentative in America being Wiliam Hubbard, a graduate of
Harvard in 1642; pastor for 58 years at Ipswich, Mass., and
historian of New England. His mother, Mary, was the daughter
of Gardiner Greene, of Boston, one of the most prosperous and
eminent men of his day.
After careful preparation at the then, as now, excellent Boston
schools, Mr Hubbard took a full course at Dartmouth in the class
of 1841, and at once entered upon the study of law at Cambridge.
>
v
a
o4 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
Admitted to the bar in 18438, he entered the office of Benjamin
R. Curtis and remained with that eminent-firm until its head
came to this city to take his seat upon the Supreme Bench of the
United States. For twenty years he practiced his profession in
Boston and for five years longer in this capital, to which he was
drawn by considerations of health and by our salubrious climate.
It is so long since Mr Hubbard Jaid down his profession (almost
twenty years) and he has since become so eminent in so many
other activities that his real greatness as a lawyer has become ob-
scured; but he was thorough in this as inallelse. He was asso-
ciated with Webster and other great men in many notable cases.
Both Dartmouth College and Columbian University gave him a
doctorate of laws. Had he devoted himself till life’s close to his
_ first pursuit he would have made and held a place among the
leaders of the American bar.
Mr Hubbard very early evinced the far-sighted enterprise and
the broad and active public spirit that characterized him to the
last. Fixing his residence in Cambridge, he threw himself at
once into all its municipal interests. He became president of
the company that built the first street railroad in this country
outside of New York city—that, namely, between Cambridge and
Boston. Hewas for some ten years a member of the State Board
of Education of Massachusetts. In 1860 he was led by the re-
sult of serious sickness in one of his own children to carefully
investigate the possibility of teaching deaf mutes to speak. The
idea had originated in Germany and been successfully applied
in a few cases; but it remained for Mr Hubbard to make this,
like several other things lying dormant or inefficient, widely or
universally available. Convinced by personal study of what
might be accomplished, and with an object-lesson before him in
his own household, he gathered a half dozen pupils, employed a
teacher, and opened a school in Chelmsford, near Boston, to which
he was a most generous contributor for several years. Meanwhile
he applied to the legislature for a charter only to be met with
doubts, and discouraged as a visionary. Buthe persevered; took
the pupils of his school, and even his own little daughter, before
a legislative committee to demonstrate his success; and finally
secured the founding of the Clarke school at Northampton, the
best of its kind in the world, which he organized, of whose board
of trustees he was the first president and a member till his death,
and which, in telegraphing its condolence, says it ‘‘ recognizes an
immeasurable loss.” In this great achievement Mr Hubbard
opened the benefits and delights of language and of association,
on practically equal terms with their fellowmen to a multitude
”
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 30
that had hitherto been doomed to live apart and to miss many of
life’s sweetest joys. His keen interest in this work never lagged,
and he has for many years been first vice-president of the Amer-
ican Association to Promote the Teaching of Speech to the Deaf.
This alone would entitle him to be called a benefactor of mankind.
These services, together with his high standing as a lawyer,
and his very efficient labors as a commissioner from Massachu-
setts to the Centennial Exposition at Philadelphia, had given
Mr Hubbard a national reputation ; and in 1876 President Grant
appointed him chairman of a special commission to investigate
the entire question of railway mail transportation. His work
here was characteristically thorough, and is to be chiefly credited
with the present excellent condition of that important branch of
the public service. From that time distinguished political pre-
ferments have been repeatedly offered him ; but though the com-
pliment was fully appreciated, the offer was always declined, since
he believed independence of action to be best, both for himself
and for the causes that he loved, and aimed to promote. During
his residence of nearly a quarter of a century at this Capital he
has been the trusted friend and counsellor of Presidents and
statesmen, and has exercised a strong, if indirect, influence upon
national and international affairs. He was a wise and staunch
friend of arbitration. He believed that the Government should
use its post-offices as telegraph stations. He was vitally interested
in the free library of this city. He had long urged what is just
now happily coming anew to the front, the establishment here of
a true national university upon the lines drawn by Washington.
He was an active and efficient trustee of the Columbian University.
He cherished the keenest interest in his Alma Mater; was presi-
dent of her Alumni Association in this city, and provided a lec-
tureship at the college which is filled by his close and cherished
friend, ex-Senator Dawes. President Tuckersays: “The college
honors the memory which has become a part of its lasting posses-
sions.” He was a regent of the Smithsonian Institution, and
eminently fitted to be, for he was committed mind and heart and
soul to “the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men.”
And so, while not himself a specialist in science, Mr Hubbard
became a promoter of science, and ina remarkable degree a friend
of scientists. He felt a hearty and honest pride in our city’s lead-
ing position as a scientific center in this country. Every earnest
student of science was sure of his sympathy and encouragement.
Nowhere outside of his own household will he be more missed
than in the goodly scientific fellowship here, as nowhere has he
been more honored and beloved. It was this fondness, probably,
36 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD —
that led him to cast such a wealth of thought and labor into the
National Geographic Society, the beloved child of his old age.
He carried it daily upon his heart. He planned for it con-
stantly. He was never too busy or too weary to consult and
act for its welfare. He had willing and efficient helpers; but
no one will be more quick than they to say that the President
made it what it ‘was, easily the leading organization of its kind
in the United States. The estimation in which he was held
among the scientific men of the National Capital is shown by
the fact that he was thrice elected President of the Joint Com-
mission of the Scientific Societies of Washington, and held that
honorable position from the formal organization of the Commis-
sion in 1895 until his death.
But, if not a technical scientist, Mr Hubbard’s intense sym-
pathy with science was supplemented by a wide and far from
inaccurate knowledge. He was a close student of the electric,
or magnetic, telegraph, and the late president of the Western
Union Company said he had done more than any other man to
make the service of that great corporation popularly available.
His capacities in such directions were widely recognized, and
for many years he was first vice-president of the American Asso-
ciation of Inventors and Manufacturers. One of his last labors
was filling the semi-scientific position of Commissioner of Awards
at the Tennessee Exposition. At the cost of immense care and
very wide and protracted correspondence he formed his jury of
fifty experts, and then spent three busy weeks in Nashville in
directing and supervising their labors. So highly was his work
appreciated that when death came there lay upon his desk an ~
invitation to do the same thing next year at Omaha.
It was this scientific leaning, combined with a fine commercial
talent and matured business judgement, that enabled him to ren-
der to the telephone that inestimable service by which, perhaps,
he will be most widely known and longest remembered. In no
sense its inventor, Mr Hubbard’s unfaltering faith in its possi-
bilities fitted him to take this product of the splendid genius of
his son-in-law, Professor Bell, and make it practicably available
and commercially profitable. When the invention—one of the
greatest of the century—was to all intents and purposes com-
plete, it had brought with it an enormous task. “A new art was
to be taught to the world, a new industry created, business and
social methods revolutionized.” Mr Hubbard was the man for
the hour. “It does speak,” cried Sir Wiliam Thomson; and
Mr Hubbard added, ‘‘ I will make the world hear it.” He did.
What men thought a toy he showed to be a machine of price-
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 37
jess value. He brought it into hourly use in this country, in
England, on the continent of Hurope, organizing the Interna-
tional, Oriental, and other companies, until, in less than a quarter
of a century, it is conveying thought in every civilized language,
and has become, more quickly than any other invention of his-
tory, a necessity of daily life and an untold blessing to mankind.
But this man of tireless energy and exhaustless capacity for
varied enterprises does not diminish upon a closer view. He
recognized his obligations as a citizen of this Capital, and met
them promptly and well. He was governor of the Society of Colo-
nial Wars in the District of Columbia. It was represented to
him that the city should be made interesting and attractive by
preserving some of its most notable historic houses, and suitably
marking its historic sites. Instantly his mind assented and his
heart was enlisted. He gave himself with ardor to the forming
of the “‘ Memorial Association of the District of Columbia,” and
it is largely through his efforts and influence that the Congress
has purchased the house in which Mr Lincoln died and set it
apart as a perpetual shrine of patriotic pilgrimage. He dispensed
a generous and refined hospitality, not only or chiefly for his
own pleasure—though he keenly enjoyed good society—but also
because he recognized the duty of a suitable welcome to the city’s
and the nation’s guests. It is many years since any man of dis-
tinction for real merits or valuable services has come to Wash-
ington without finding himself seated at Mr Hubbard’s table,
and among/guests whom it was a pleasure and an honor to meet.
He read the best books; and, while evincing no special talent as
a writer, he had a fine literary taste and was a judicious and
kindly critic. He had a passion for art, especially for etchings
and engravings, in knowledge and appreciation of which he was
a rare expert, and his collection is one of the finest in this coun-
try. Seldom was he seen to better advantage than when show-
ing these treasures to some appreciative friend, when his fine
face would beam with pleasure and his deep eye scan afresh
every detail of beauty that he knew and loved so well.
Mr Hubbard was a man of marked purity of life, to whom a
stain of any sort seemed: utterly foreign. No one would have
ventured upon coarseness of word or act in his presence. He
was intensely conscientious. He was unselfish, willing to accept
the efficient result of his labors, and let others get the praise. He
eould not be roused to resentment, and was often silent when
friends thought he should speak and claim his rights. He served
his fellowmen not only in the great ways already noted, but with
unstinted gilts of thought and sympathy, and, if need be, of
38 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
money, in quiet, unmentioned ministries; and he served them
also with what is by no means easiest to give—steadfast friend-
ship. The number is very large of young men, and men not so
young, whom Mr Hubbard drew to him and who regarded him
as more than friend—as almost father. This single fact is one of
the finest tributes possible to the beauty and strength of his charac-
ter. His family hfe may hardly be mentioned here; but itis no
intrusion to name what all who entered his beautiful home wit-
nessed—a chivalrous, conjugal devotion and a tender love for
children and grandchildren, most delightful to see, and that
have now become sacred and blessed memories.
Mr Hubbard’s love for this church was intense and unfailing.
During the second year of its existence he succeeded Mr Justice
Strong as president of its board of trustees and still held the
office at his death. He served upon its building committee
and builded his best thought and devotion into its walls. He
planned and labored to have it minister to all that is high and
pure and elevating for the community; and one of his latest
wishes was that this fine organ should be used freely to give
pleasure to the music-lovers of the city. Of his inmost religious
experiences we may not speak too freely, for he himself was
reticent about them. He confessed Christ in his early man-
hood in Boston under the ministry of the celebrated and godly
Dr Edward N. Kirk, and later removed his church membership
to Cambridge, whence he never brought it to this city. He was
not clear about some points of metaphysical theology, and was
too conscientious to do what would seem to commit him to any-
thing that he did not fully believe. He was reverent, devout, —
sincere, aiming each day to shape his life on the plan of fidelity
to his noblest ideals, to man and to God.
It is a unique life that has thus been led among us and that
has now, amid universal grief, though as one has said with
“exultation ” in what it has been and has accomplished, sunk
peacefully and gently to its close. One of the most competent
judges writes: “ When I say that I regarded him as the most
useful citizen of Washington, I cannot say more of any man.”
What high and noble phase of the life of our city is not the
poorer for his going, but also the richer for his having lived
among us? What that is purest, truest, sweetest, most broad-
minded, most generous-hearted, did he not illustrate and adorn ?
Man of faith and of action, scholar, lover of art, patriot, cosmo-
politan, true friend, tender husband and father, who didst always
live with thy face to the sun-rising! ‘‘ Good night; and flights
of angels sing thee to thy rest.”
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
Memorial Meeting, held in the City of Washington, January 21, 1898,
10.
ill)
Prof. Alexander Graham Bell, LL. D., President of the
National Geographic Society, presiding
ADDRESSES
Introductory remarks by President A. Graham Bell............
. Address by Dr George M. Sternberg, Surgeon-General, U.S. A.,
Acting-President of the Joint Commission of the Scientific So-
cieties of Washington, on behalf of the Joint Commission and
EINER S CLOMbIMCHSOCLCMCS arose sapere elven ie Cecuete ea ielevait as ce Nene
. Prof. 8. P. Langley, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution,
introducing Honorable William L. Wilson. .................
. Honorable William L. Wilson, President of Washington and Lee
University, ex-Postmaster-General, a Regent and Member of
the Executive Committee of the Board of Regents of the Smith-
sonian Institution, on behalf of the Smithsonian Institution. .
. Miss Caroline A. Yale, LL. D., Vice-President of the American
Association to Promote the Teaching of Speech to the Deaf,
and Principal of the Clarke School, Northampton, Mass., on
behalf of the American Association to Promote the Teaching of
Speech to the Deaf SURE CRTC Bice HA CU Ca RAPT) TOE re EE :
. Dr B. L. Whitman, President of Columbian University, on behalf
Cig tne Wa erSkE yeu cies eine epemeaaaete a @ om cise mnie NE Un ay
. Dr Marcus Benjamin, Historian of the Society of Colonial Wars,
on behalf of that Society. -s2.42 5.4). 00. 2 csp tame Ley Rn IR aCe EE
. Dr Daniel C. Gilman, President of Johns Hopkins University, on
Gardiner Greene Elubbard astavclelpemac.c.so.. ss ses. aoe
. Major John W. Powell, Director of the Bureau of American Eth-
nology, Associate Editor of Science, ex-Director of the U. S.
Geological Survey, on behalf of the journal Science...........
. Honorable A. R. Spofford, Assistant Librarian of the Congres-
sional Library, Vice-President of the Columbia Historical So-
ciety, on behalf of the Columbia Historical Society...........
Honorable John W. Ross, Chairman of the Board of Commis-
sioners of the District of Columbia, on behalf of the City and
Wei Tal oer nye nc NS ca cociak ees tyoce ence aise uve aT a. he a oe
General A. W. Greely, Chief Signal Officer of the U. 8. Army,
Senior Vice-President of the National Geographie Society, on
Dekraloteth a SOCLeb venir Mia eaeticie iste sicicne: imu kere be:
46
On
we)
57
59
66
68
40 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
President Beit: A familiar face has departed from among us,
and the place left vacant we cannot fill. The President of the
National Geographic Society, the Honorable Gardiner Greene
Hubbard, died December 11, at his home, Twin Oaks. He him-
self arranged for this meeting to commemorate the tenth anni-
versary of the founding of the National Geographic Society, and
it has seemed ‘peculiarly appropriate to the Board of Managers
that it should be made also a memorial meeting to himself.
On behalf of the National Geographic Society, I desire to extend
avery cordial welcome to the representatives of other scientific
societies wlfo are present with us on this occasion, and to the
many personal friends of Mr Hubbard who have honored us with
their presence.
Of the many letters of regret that have been received from gen-
tlemen unable to attend, I will read but one. This letter is from
the Executive Mansion, dated January 21,1898. It isas follows:
‘*My Dear Sir: I beg leave to acknowledge the courteous invitation to
attend the memorial meeting in honor of the late Gardiner G. Hubbard,
to be held under the auspices of the National Geographic Society, at the
First Congregational Church this evening.
‘“The President wishes me to express his sincere regret at his inability
to be present at this meeting, as he would have been very glad to join
with Mr Hubbard’s friends in paying tribute to his high character and
the commanding influence of his noble life.
(Signed) Joun ApDpISON PortTER,
Secretary to the President.”’
A large number of telegrams have also been received, but I
shall read only the following cablegram from the Honorable
Andrew D. White, Ambassador to Germany, who sends this
message :
‘*T unite in very affectionate tribute to Mr Hubbard, a faithful friend,
patriotic citizen, devoted public servant, and true man.
(Signed) ANDREW D. Wuire.”’
It will not be my place to speak to this assemblage of the in-
terest and the work of Mr Hubbard in connection with the Na-
tional Geographic Society, as that will be done by one far more
competent, Gen. A. W. Greely. Mr Hubbard’s heart has for
many years been especially devoted to the Geographic Society.
His last thoughts were of this Society and of this meeting, the
tenth anniversary of its foundation. So peculiarly wrapt up in
this Society was he that his family entrusted his remains to its
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 41
Board of Managers, the members of which personally carried his
body to the grave.
Mr Hubbard was a man of large views. I know of no man
who could take so broad a view of things as he could or who was
so well fitted to occupy the position to which he was elected in
this city, and which he esteemed above every other honor of his
life, the position of President of the Joint Commission of the
Scientific Societies of Washington. His views were not confined
to narrow horizons. Without making any claim to be a spe-
cialist in science himself, he had an exceedingly clear concep-
tion of the relations of the sciences one to another, and he was
therefore admirably fitted to be the president of such an organ-
ization as the Joint Commission. We'who are more especially
identified with the National Geographic Society feel that our
friend and leader has been taken from us, and I know that in
the Joint Commission a similar feeling is expressed. I will call
upon Gen. George M. Sternberg, Surgeon-General of the United
States Army, who is Acting-President of the Joint Commission
of the Scientific Societies of Washington, to speak to us on be-
half of that body.
Surgeon-General SrERNBERG: Itis my privilege to pay a brief
tribute to the memory of my departed friend and late associate
upon the Joint Commission of the Scientific Societies of Wash-
ington, Mr Gardiner G. Hubbard.
Mr Hubbard was elected President of the Joint Commission
at a time when this organization was in a state of unstable equi-
librium, due to differences of opinion as to the nature and extent
of the powers which should be conferred upon it by the several
societies whose governing boards constituted its membership.
He looked upon it as an organization which, properly directed,
might accomplish useful results in the diffusion of scientific in-
formation and which would prove a bond of union between the
scientific societies of Washington and enable them to act together
in matters of common interest. These objects commanded his
sympathy and active codperation, and from the time of its re-
organization with increased membership and extended powers,
in January, 1895, to the day of his death Mr Hubbard was the
president of this body. We owe much to his experience and
skill as a presiding officer, to his practical methods of dealing
with business matters coming before the Executive Committee,
and to his cordial sympathy with the objects in view. If, as we
now hope, the Joint Commission, by a natural process of evolu-
42 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
tion, shall become the nucleus of a Washington Academy of
Sciences, Mr Hubbard will always occupy an honorable place in
the history of this Academy of Sciences. He was in the habit
of disclaiming any pretensions to be considered a “ scientific
man.” Ifonly those who are engaged in scientific research work
are properly so called, his modest disclaimer may be admitted ;
but it would be well for many of the scientific men of the coun-
_try if they could take as broad a view and as intelligent an in-
terest in the general progress of scientific knowledge and of ap-
plied science in all departments of human industry and art as
that manifested by the late President of the Joint Commission.
His interest in science was catholic, and no doubt found its
inspiration to a large extent in that genial and generous human-
ity which was so characteristic of him. Anything calculated to
promote the comfort and happiness of those about him and of
mankind in general was to him a matter of interest, and this
kindly feeling led to the generous hospitality and cordiality of
manner which all have experienced who enjoyed the privilege
of his acquaintance. He quickly recognized merit and earnest
effort in any department of human endeavor, and his ready sym-
pathy and practical advice were always at command for the ad-
vancement of any good cause. With him acquaintance quickly
ripened into friendship when he was brought into contact with
one whose work and character commanded his respect.
Although his age and extensive personal interests might have
excused him from active participation in the management of the
affairs of the Joint Commission, he was too conscientious to neg-
lect any of the duties pertaining to the office which he had ac-
cepted, and at meetings of the Executive Committee his kindly
presence was seldom missed. Prompt in his attendance and ex-
pecting others to be equally punctual in keeping their appoint-
ments, he had a happy method of dispatching business and of —
checking unnecessary discussion and dilatory proceedings. He
manifested no intention or desire to overrule the wishes of the
majority in anything relating to the organization and interests
of the Joint Commission, but as presiding officer did his best to
promote harmony and to carry into effect the measures which
were evidently favored by a majority of the members of the or-
ganization. So far as his relation to the Joint Commission and
the scientific societies of Washington is concerned [ have noth-
ing to add, but I cannot close without expressing my personal
sense of ee and bereavement. Although my acquaintance with
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 43
Mr Hubbard dated back only to the year 1893, I had learned to
look upon him as a friend and to appreciate his cordial greeting
when we met as one of the pleasant things in life.
He was so young at heart and in appearance that I scarcely
realized that he was much my senior in years, and the announce-
ment of his death after so brief an illness came to me as an un-
expected shock. Those of us who knew him well will continue
to cherish his memory as that of a public-spirited citizen, a lover
of truth, a promoter of good works, and a trusted friend.
President Bett: Mr Hubbard was a Regent of the Smithsonian
Institution and took great interest in its progress. I shall ask
Professor Langley and the Hon. William IL. Wilson, President
of the Washington and Lee University and ex-Postmaster-Gen-
eral of the United States, to say a few words on behalf of the
Smithsonian Institution.
Professor LANGLEY: I knew Mr Gardiner Hubbard for many
years, and I owesome of the very pleasantest hours of my Wash-
ington life to the kindness and hospitality I received in his home.
Among the many occupations of his own varied life there were
few in which he took more interest or was more zealous than in
his duties as Regent of the Smithsonian Institution. It might
seem asif I, as Secretary of that Institution, could with propriety
give an account of his relations to it. That, however, can be
better given by another, and since we have here tonight the gen-
tleman whose name has just been mentioned, the late Postmaster-
General, who, as a resident of Washington, became not only a
Regent but a member of the executive committee and a col-
league of Mr Hubbard, and who comes here in spite of the en-
erossing duties of the University to speak to us tonight, I feel
that I cannot do better than to give place to him and ask him to
speak of one whom he knew so well in this connection, and whose
relations as a colleague have been more intimate than mine.
Mr Wirson: To those who were permitted to enjoy the per-
sonal friendship of Mr Gardiner Hubbard and to garner up
gracious memories of intimate association with him, the first and
strongest impulse tonight naturally is to speak of him as a man,
to recall and commemorate the qualities and virtues that lay at
the foundation of all that he was andall that he did. The world
outside the circle of his acquaintances may sometimes have re-
garded him merely as a man of large possessions ; his occasional
fellow-workers in the varied fields of his activity and interests
doubtless regarded him as a man of great achievements. Those
44 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
who were privileged to enter the closer circle of personal friend-
ship knew that however ample those possessions, however varied
and admirable those achievements, they were much less than
the man himself. They were the natural, almost the necessary,
fruit of a clear intellect, a strong will, and, above all, a moral
force that instinctively arrayed itself with generous sympathy on
the side of the true, the beautiful, and the good. |
The good causes of which Mr Hubbard was ever the discrim-
inating and liberal, though modest, patron; the good work in
which he was, to the very close of his life,an active participant,
were not external to him; they were, one and all, part of his own
nature. He was too self-respecting a man to court notoriety,
either as a philanthropist or as a patron of education or science,
by ostentatious benevolence.
Now that Mr Hubbard has gone from us forever, we begin to
realize how large, how unique, and how beautiful a part he bore
in the social, charitable, and intellectual life of his adopted city.
Washington is doubtless destined to become more and more the
residence of men who have won fame or fortune in other parts of
the country, and come here to make their homes amid congenial
surroundings, homes of hospitality, and not seldom homes of re-
finement and culture. Mr Hubbard did this and he did more
than this. No home in Washingtcn has dispensed a more charm-
ing and constant hospitality than his. He came to Washington
with an acknowledged social position, with well known and
honorable lineage, with liberal education and refined tastes, with
large and successful experience in the business world, with a
mind stored and broadened and liberalized by much reading and
much contact with men and things in his own and other coun-
tries. For sucha man it was inevitable that he should become
associated with every form of charitable, educational, and scien-
tific work in this country that appealed to a man of public and
patriotic spirit, and if he became connected with them, it was as
inevitable that he should become a leader in them.
His election, as Professor Bell has told us, to the presidency
of the Joint Commission of the seven scientific societies of Wash-
ington is but one illustration of this. The Congress of the
United States chose him a Regent of the Smithsonian Institu-
tion. His associates on the board made him a member of its
executive committee, charged with a personal supervision of this
institution and of the scientific department which Congress had
placed under its administration.
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 45
Professor Langley has said that I would speak of him in this
connection tonight, and yet what can { say of him here that
would not be true of him in everything and in every duty that
he assumed? It was not in the nature of Mr Hubbard—it was
not the habit of his life—to be a mere ornamental holder of }o-
sitions, to be a mere routine worker. High as was his personal
regard and unstinted his admiration for the ability and scien-
tific attainments of the Secretary of that institution and the
heads of its bureaus, he wished, if possible, to press still for-
ward; and at the last meeting of the Board of Regents, on his
motion a committee was appointed, of which he was made chair-
man, to consider and report how the value and usefulness of these
bureaus could be promoted.
So many sided was Mr Hubbard’s character, so many sided
were the activities of his life, that it is fitting that the tributes
paid to him tonight should come from many friends and from
many points of view; but, start from wherever they may, they
will inevitably meet and blend in the common tribute to the man
himself. .
I have'tried to speak of him with that studied moderation
which I know would be most in accordance with his wishes. I
have spoken of him as a man of public spirit, as a patron of ed-
ucation and science, and as a benefactor of his fellowmen.
I will draw aside the curtain of his home life only so far as to
say that in all the relations of husband and father and grand-
father he was the embodiment of courtesy, affection, and gentle-
ness, the inbred traits of a born gentleman.
President Bett: Mr Wilson has referred to the philanthropic
spirit of Mr Hubbard, and I will now invite. your attention toa
philanthropic work of his that was unique. In March, 1864,
Mr Hubbard brought into the Massachusetts legislature a bill
for the establishment of an oral school for deaf children. The
schools of this country were taught by means of spelling on the
fingers and by means of the French sign language. Many per-
sons had suggested that oral schools like those in Germany,
where the deaf had been taught to speak and to learn to read
from the lips, should be established in America; but none had
been established, until in March, 1864, Mr Hubbard made the
first attempt to establish a school where deaf children could be
- taught to speak and to understand speech by the motions of the
mouth without resort to signs or manual spelling on the fingers.
It is not my purpose to fully set forth his efforts in this direc-
46 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
tion, but simply to direct attention to the magnitude of the work
that has resulted from those efforts. Last year there were more
than 5,000 deaf children in the schools of the United States learn-
ing to speak and to read from the lips. There were over 3,600
pupils who were taught by the oral method alone, without resort
to alphabets or the sign language. The percentage of pupils
taught by speech since these early efforts of Mr Hubbard’s has
gone on increasing, increasing, increasing, until we know now
with absolute certainty that the time will come when there will
no longer be any deaf or dumb in this country, for all shall be
taught to speak without resort to spelling or the French sign
language. The instrumentalities through which this wonderful
change has been effected are largely the Clarke school at North-
ampton, Mass., and the organization of a society to promote the
teaching of syeech to the deaf, known as the American Society.
There are three great results that were originated by the move-
ment of 1864: First, the teaching of speech to the deaf; second,
lowering the age of instruction to the deaf (at that time no at-
tempt was made to teach deaf children under 12 yearsof age),
and last, but not least in importance, the employment of women
as teachers of the deaf. Before that time the instructors were
largely men; but the necessity of teaching speech to the very
little child led to the employment of women. This fact and the
improvement in the methods have been the secret of success in
teaching speech to the deaf, and the work is now largely in the
hands of women.
The American Association to Promote the Teaching of Speech
to the Deaf is represented here tonight by its Vice-President, Miss
Caroline A. Yaie, LL. D., who is also the Principal of the Clarke
School at Northampton, which sprang from Mr Hubbard’s move-
ment of 1864. Mr Hubbard has passed away, but he has
breathed his spirit into us. In this work of teaching speech to
the deaf there are hundreds of Mr Hubbard’s friends. They are
organized into a society, and they are working and accomplish-
ing the result at which he aimed. ‘The leader of this movement
is with us tonight and will tell us something of the work. I in-
troduce to you Dr Caroline A. Yale.
Miss YALE: Among all the interests of Mr Hubbard’s life,
possibly none extended over a longer period or was more deeply
rooted in his rich nature than his interest in the education of ~
the deaf. In this, as in many other departments of his activity,
he seemed possessed of prophetic vision. In his own little child’s
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 47
voice he heard the prophecy that deaf children might speak,
and to him is due, probably more than to any other one man,
the fact that all America has realized the fulfillment of that
prophecy.
The results of the teaching of his own little child, made deaf
by illness in early childhood, by means of lip-reading and speech,
without the use of signs or the manual alphabet, were so satis-
factory that Mr and Mrs Hubbard were confirmed in their opin-
ion of the importance of very early instruction for deaf children
and of the superiority of the oral method of instruction. They
were most anxious that this method should be fairly tried and
felt strongly that such trial could not be made satisfactorily in
any of the already established schools, which employed the sign
method and to which pupils were seldom admitted under ten or
twelve years of age.
The story of Mr Hubbard’s efforts to establish a school in
Massachusetts, in which instruction should be given through lip-
reading and speech alone, may most fittingly be told in his own
words. He writes that previous to that time “ the sign language
was believed in this country to be the best and only efficient
method of instruction for the deaf. The reports of the Hon.
Horace Mann in favor of the German system of articulation had
attracted attention, and gentlemen from our oldest institutions
had been sent abroad to examine into the subject. Their re-
ports were only partially favorable, and the efforts to engraft the
German system of articulation upon the French system of signs
then in use in our country proved a failure.” So when in 1864
Mr Hubbard presented a petition to the legislature asking for a
charter for a school, it was the first attempt to establish a school
under the oral method in a country where for fifty years the
sign method had been firmly established.
Hesays: “ This application was opposed by the friends of the
American Asylum, on the ground that it was a visionary project
and attempting the impossible. Dr Samuel G. Howe, of South
Boston, earnestly seconded the petition and appeared with me
before the legislature. Our efforts were unsuccessful and our
proposition was rejected. I determined to show that it was not
a visionary project, and meeting Miss Rogers, who was then
teaching a deaf girl by articulation, we determined to organize
a small school, so that when we again appealed to the legislature
we could show the results of our new system. A small fund
was raised. Our plan was advertised in the papers and after
48 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
six or eight months we found six pupils, with whom we opened
‘a school at Chelmsford, under the care of Miss Rogers.”
Miss Rogers began teaching her first pupil a few months after
the failure of the first attempt to establish a school. Mr Hub-
bard watched the work of this little school with most intense
interest, for from the first the full import of the experiment
seemed clear to his mind. If it was successful it meant speech
for the deaf and the English language through speech ; if it failed
it meant a deeper silence and a strange language of signs used
in place of the language of home and country. The success of
the school exceeded their expectations, and in 1867 an effort was
made to secure its incorporation. Mr Hubbard wrote: ‘‘ Mr
Talbot and myself called on Governor Bullock and asked him in
his message to the legislature to refer to our school and favor an
application we intended to make for a charter for it. To our
great surprise, he told us that he had that morning received a
letter from a gentleman in Northampton offering $50,000 if a
school for the deaf could be established in Northampton.”
Governor Bullock did refer at considerable length to the offer
of Mr Clarke and recommended the establishment of a school for
the deaf in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. That portion’
of his message was referred to a special committee of the Senate
and the House, of which the Honorable Lewis J. Dudley, of
Northampton, was chairman on the part of the House. Long,
earnest, and sharp were the debates held before the committee.
The advocates of the sign method still felt that a fearful mistake
was being made. The Massachusetts State Board of Charities,
of which the Honorable F. B. Sanborn was secretary, heartily
endorsed the movement toward the establishment of the new
school. Mr Dudley had become a convert to the oral method
and used his utmost influence to forward the movement. The
act of incorporation was secured, and Mr Clarke expressed his
purpose to give the school the bulk of his remaining property.
The little experimental school of Miss Rogers was closed. Its
zealous and devoted teacher and her pupils became the nucleus
of the Clarke school in Northampton, which opened in October,
1867. Mr Hubbard was made president of its corporation and
for the first ten years of its existence gave the school much per-
sonal attention.
Then followed years when he lived much abroad and when his
life was overcrowded with other interests; but wherever he was
and however busied with other matters, he always found time to
visit schools for the deaf and write of their methods and results.
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 49
When later he was more at home and less abroad, the old-
time enthusiastic interest in the school seemed to be roused
anew. He rejoiced in the growth and expansion of its work,
its adaptation of kindergarten methods, its establishment of a
training class for teachers, and most of all he rejoiced in the
higher intellectual work accomplished, which made it possible
for a steadily increasing number of pupils to leave the school,
fitted to enter higher schools for hearing young men and women,
and to pursue their studies as students simply, in a world of
ordinary students, becoming a part of the great world of speak-
ing people.
In 1890 the American Association to Promote the Teaching
of Speech to the Deaf was founded by Dr Alexander Graham
Bell, the husband of the little child whose need of special in-
struction first led Mr Hubbard to take an interest in the instruc-
tion of the deaf. The specific objects of its organization were to
aid schools for the deaf in their efforts to teach speech by train-
ing teachers and by disseminating information in regard to
methods of speech-teaching. Into Dr Bell’s plans for this new
organization Mr Hubbard entered with all the enthusiasm which
she gave to his early work. He was its first vice-president, and
the wisdom of his counsel and thestrength of his purpose have
done much to guide the association through the difficulties of
its first years of work and to give it the position which it now
holds as the most influential and effective organization con-
nected with the education of the deaf in this country—prob-
ably in the world —its membership including, in addition to a
large number of teachers, many other persons like Mr Hubbard
and Dr Bell, who are most effective promoters of the work of
the association.
The influence of these two institutions, in the founding of
which Mr Hubbard bore so active a part—the Clarke school and
the American Association to Promote the Teaching of Speech
to the Deaf—has been most widespread, both in this country and
in Europe. Today one-half of all the teachers in the schools for
the deaf in America are teachers of articulation, and over one-
half the pupils in those schools are taught speech.
Beyond these definite results the effect of the growth of oral
teaching in this country has been most stimulating to the gen-
eral work of the education of the deaf, and “at every turn and
on every marked occasion the influence of Mr Hubbard has
been felt in this expanding and liberalizing movement.” Surely
4
50 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
the work and the workers must sadly mourn the loss of a leader
and a friend, one clear of vision, strang of will, and kind of
heart.
President Bett: Mr Hubbard, as a Trustee of the Columbian
University, took, as we all know, a great interest in that institu-
tion, and I shall ask Dr Whitman, its President, to speak to us
on its behalf.
President Wurrman: Dr Hubbard was exceptionally happy
in educational work. The Columbian University does not speak
for itself alone when it emphasizes this phase of his influence,
but it is able to speak with unusual emphasis from the fact that
Dr Hubbard was an active member of its board of trustees. His
name had an honored place on other boards of like character,
but Columbian has been so situated that it has been able at all
times to take advantage of his time and strength and influence:
This makes it peculiarly proper that Dr Hubbard’s educational
work should be represented in a tribute from this particular
institution.
The preparation of Dr Hubbard to serve educational interests
was large and varied. His own academic and professional train-
ing made him familiar with general educational principles, and
continuous service through a long and busy life kept him in
touch with the progress of educational enterprise. His well-
known intimacy with prominent educators both at home and
abroad, his recognized standing as a patron of art and science
and literature, his well-known leadership in the business world,
gave him peculiar fitness for dealing with educational problems.
This fitness it was the good fortune of the Columbian University
to enlist directly in its service.
Two sets of ideas indicate clearly the services of Dr Hubbard
to the University.
On the one hand there is a group of ideas—thoroughness, pru-
dence, progressiveness. Dr Hubbard always insisted upon the
obligation to go to the bottom of things, whether the matter under
consideration was a course of study ora purchase of real estate.
He always urged the importance of knowing just what the facts
were; this, however, was simply part of his great habit of pru-
dence. He was never an obstructionist, but he was never will-
ing to go faster than conditions warranted. It was thoroughly
characteristic of him that when a few days before his death he
sent for a representative of the University that he might be ac-
quainted with the progress of a movement looking to the radical
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 51
betterment of part of the University’s property. The enterprise
itself he heartily commended, but at the same time he insisted
that it should not be undertaken until it was known where the
means would come from to carry the enterprise to completion.
This incident illustrates, perhaps, as clearly as a trait can be
illustrated the general attitude of Dr Hubbard’s mind toward
work to be undertaken; in it thoroughness and prudence both
speak. Happily, however, the habits of thoroughness and pru-
dence did not make him unduly conservative ; rather he was
one of the most progressive of men. His mind was so well bal-
anced that so far from suggesting obstruction, prudence with
him was simply the basis of wise undertaking. He never cut
loose from the base of supphes, but the base of supplies was for
him also the base of vigorous operations leading to ever larger
movementand ever larger conquest. Dr Hubbard had in marked
degree the great gift of far-sightedness; his vision was large;
his plans for an institution could no more be confined to the
limits of a single city than his own life and influence could be.
There were always fields beyond to be taken into account, and
there was in his heart largeness of hope answering to the large-
ness of his vision; he was no pessimist. It was a sad, dark day
for university work in Washington and everywhere when his
large vision of things was clouded by death.
On the other hand, we have his life as manifested in the great,
virtues of integrity, trustfulness, sympathy. Integrity he pos-
sessed in large degree; it is simply the truth to say that his life
was a life of integrity. Falsehood, deceit, double speaking, un-
faithfulness of every kind was hateful to him. Clouding of issues
he could not tolerate. A line of thought he developed with great
clearness and power when engaged three years ago in committee
work with reference to filling the office of president, then vacant,
was simply the speaking out of his own sense of the importance
of a clear conception of the purpose of the institution. Conver-
sation had turned upon certain obligations of the University
toward those who had founded it in prayer and sacrifice. Dr
Hubbard insisted that these prayers and offerings should be held
in remembrance, and that while the institution ought not to be
regarded as an agency for the glorification of any body of Chris-
tians of any name, it ought beyond all question and beyond all
doubt to be an agency for the furtherance of Christian education.
When at the close of the last academic year, after long and pains-
taking canyass of the whole question, it was thought well to revise
52 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
the charter of the institution, Dr Hubbard worked indefatigably
toward clearing up all doubtful questions, and heartily coincided
with the Committee of Revision, on which he was serving, in their
recommendation to the corporation that such changes should be
made in the governing boards of the University as should clearly
define all general issues and secure the most efficient oversight
possible. It was not first a question of policy with him, but a
question of right. Is it right that this should be done? And
when he himself answered yes, he could add, and he did add,
“ Tf it is right, then it is wise.” And when during the past year
the University had to face the painful task of dealing with dis-
honesty in a trusted official, it was the sense of violated obliga-
tion that filled the soul of Mr Hubbard most with righteous
indignation. His horror and contempt for theft and falsehood
were the natural language of a soul which kept itself unsullied
by insisting that the supreme rule of life is the rule of right.
Naturally enough Dr Hubbard’s integrity made him trustful of
others; the presumption of honesty in the other man was always
emphasized by him. Clear proof had to be eiven that his con-
fidence was misplaced before that confidence was withdrawn,
His own word meant his honor pledged, and he assumed that
the word of the other man meant the other man’s honor, too.
Withal, Dr Hubbard exhibited in marked degree the beauti-
ful traitof sympathy. Many were not aware of this. They saw
the man who had achieved success in his business and profes-
sional career and who gathered up unto himself lines of influence
that made him a man of mark in the community; but those
who were permitted to know him as a man were impressed by
his kindliness of spirit, his willingness to sacrifice self for others,
and his wonderful ability to enter into the joys and sorrows and
ambitions of others. His life was a life of infinite detail along ’
the most varied lines of interest; but all these details and inter-
ests did not make him forgetful of those who needed encourage-
mentand help. It was a revelation to the man in question, but
it was in every way characteristic of Dr Hubbard’s kindly
thought, that from his sick chamber he sent for a representative
of the University, who did not dream that certain of his activ-
ities had been noticed, only to say to him these words, “‘ You are
working too hard.” <A thousand illustrations of this trait could
be enumerated, but the one experience tells the whole story as
clearly as a thousand could; and when one had once learned
that the brusqueness which sometimes marked his speech had
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 53
no connection with his heart, but was rather to be interpreted
by the twinkle in the eye that looked so kindly on the world,
one had found the way to a rich store of sympathy and help.
He admonished only when admonition was necessary; he
warned and admonished and rebuked, but all was done with a
kindliness that took away the sting. In all his life he never in-
tentionally wounded a friend. He was no croaker; he was no
faultfinder; heneverscolded; he never complained. He shared
his gifts without grudging. The most precious of all his gifts he
gave most freely of all, and that was himself.
It is no wonder, then, that the Columbian University holds
his name in grateful remembrance, for in that institution, as in
the world outside, all respected him, and those who knew him
loved him. His best monument is a community enriched and
a world made better by his influence. All else decays; this
abides forever, and in this the Columbian University gratefully
records its part.
“What is excellent
As God lives is permanent. Hearts are dust.
Hearts’-loves remain.”
President Bett: Mr Hubbard was President of the Society of
Colonial Wars. I will ask Dr Marcus Benjamin, Historian of
that Society, to speak on its behalf. 2
* Dr Bensamin: Gardiner Greene Hubbard was twice Governor
of the Society of Colonial Wars in the District of Columbia, and
at the time of his death his name had been selected by the com-
mittee on nominations to head the list of the society’s officers
for a third time.
The society, which it is my privilege to represent on this oc-
casion, is composed of descendants in the male line of those men.
who in a military or naval capacity or in high civil office ren-
dered service in the wars of the American colonies from the time
of the settlement of Jamestown, in 1607, to that of the battle of
Lexington,on April 19,1775. Ithas for its object the preserva-
tion of the memory of those forefathers whose public services
made our freedom and unity possible.
It is not for me to attempt an account of the achievements
that made Mr Hubbard so valuable a citizen to the world, for
that has already been done by those who knew him more inti-
mately ; indeed, my acquaintance with him only began with his
admission to the Society of Colonial Wars, in the winter of 1895 ;
but if you will permit me, I will, in the short time at my disposal,
ot GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
say a few words concerning those ancestors whose records Mr
Hubbard filed with our society and of whose memory he was so
justly proud. f
The first of his forefathers to settle in the New World was Wil-
ham Hubbard, who sailed from London on the ship Defence and
landed in Boston on October 6, 1635. He is believed to have
been a gentleman of easy circumstances and the owner of much
landed estate, but left his home because of a sense of irritation
to his religious views, caused by the interference and restrictions
then placed upon freedom of worship in England. Two years
previous John Winthrop, the younger, had founded the settle-
ment of Ipswich in the young colony, and here William Hub-
bard, who had come from the older Ipswich in Suffolk, made his
new home. That he was a man of means is shown by the numer-
ous purchases of large tracts of land that are recorded in the
“Old Norfolk County Deeds.” Hewas also a lover of learning,
for in 1636 he became the founder and principal of the Ipswich
Grammar School, giving one acre of ground for its site. The
spot is still preserved, for the Cogswell school occupies today the
acre consecrated to education more than two hundred and fifty
years ago by the first of the Hubbards. This early pioneer was
highly appreciated by his neighbors, for he was a deputy to the
general court during 1638 and 1646, and held other public ap-
pointments. About 1652 he removed to Boston, and there he
died in the summer of 1670, at the ripe age of seventy-six. He
was regarded as “a very learned man, being well read in state -
matters, of a very affable and humble behavior, who hath ex-
pended much of his estate to helpe on this worke.” Such was
the ancestor through whom Mr Hubbard sought admission to
our society.
Of greater fame, perhaps, was the second William Hubbard,
the fourth child and second son of his parents. He was born in
Essex county, England, and came to this country with his par-
ents. While a resident of Ipswich he entered Harvard and re-
ceived from that university the master’s degree in 1642, in the
first class that ever graduated from an American college. While
in Harvard he studied medicine, but the church claimed him
and he was ordained in 1658, becoming the pastor of the Congre-
gational church in Ipswich, over which charge he continued
until advancing years compelled his retirement in 1708. He was
recognized as a scholar, a historian, and a divine, and was active
in many concerns of public interest. His historical works are
°
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 55
painstaking records of the condition of New England between
1620 and 1630. They include a “ Narrative of Troubles with the
Indians,” published in Boston in 1677, and a“ History of New
England,” finished in 1680. ~
For the last-named work he received £50 as a “ manifestation
of thankfulness ” from the general court, and the manuscript is
still preserved in the library of the Massachusetts Historical So-
ciety. Cotton Mather in his “ Magnalia” acknowledges his in-
debtedness to Mr Hubbard. He died in 1704, and of that event
the record is still preserved in the following words: “ He goes
to ye lecture, after to Col. Apletons, goes home, sups, and dyes
that night.” The Reverend John Eliot refers to him as “‘ equal
to any in the province for learning and candour, and superior to
all his contemporaries as a writer.”
The line of descent continues through John Hubbard, who was
born in Ipswich in 1648 and who in early manhood settled in
Boston, where he became a leading merchant. In 1671 he mar-
ried Ann Leverett, second daughter of Sir John Leverett.
To the career of this distinguished military leader a few words
must be given. Bornin England in 1616, he came with his father
to Boston in 1632 and became a successful merchant. Early in
life he was chosen captain of a militia company, and in 1644 he
went to England to fight against the King under Cromwell.
Later he returned to Boston and was chosen a delegate to the
general court, also becoming a member of the governor’s coun-
cil. In 1671 he was appointed deputy governor, and two years
later governor of the colony. Meanwhile his knowledge of mil-
itary matters was recognized, and from 1665 to 1673 he was
major general of the Massachusetts soldiers. It was during his
administration as governor that King Philip’s war occurred, and
it was largely owing to his skill and energy that the war was
brought to a fortunate issue. For his services in this direction
Charles II conferred upon him the honor of knighthood.
Returning to the Hubbard ancestry, John, previously men-
tioned, had a son, born in 1677, to whom he gave the name of
John. This second John was graduated from Harvard in 1695
and became pastor of the church in Jamaica, Long island, in
1698. He died in 1705, and is described as a man “‘ of gentle
disposition and greatly beloved by his flock, who deplored his
early death.”. In1701 he married Mabel Russell, granddaughter
of Richard Russell and, on her mother’s side, of Samuel Wyllis.
The Honorable Richard Russell was a man of much impor-
56 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
tance and most of his life was devoted to public service. He
was born in Hertfordshire, England, in 1612, and came to Mas-
sachusetts in 1640. Four years later he was made treasurer of
the colony, and held that place until his death, in 1674. Besides
filling that important office, he was a member of the general court
for many years, serving as its speaker in 1648-’9, 1654~’6, and
1659, and he was assistant during the years 1659 to 1674.
Mr Hubbard was sixth in descent from Samuel Wyllis in conse-
quence of the marriage of his great-great-grandfather with Mabel
Russell, and we pass from the records of Massachusetts to those
of Connecticut.
‘Samuel Wyllis was a native of Warwick, England, and ac-
companied his father to the New World, settling in Hartford.
He was graduated from Harvard in 1653, and a year later was
elected one of the magistrates of Connecticut. In this office and
the corresponding one of assistant under the charter of Charles
II he was retained by annual election until 1685. It was on
his estate, directly in front of his house, that the famous oak
stood in which the charter of Connecticut was concealed in 1687.
His death occurred in Hartford on May 30,1709. Samuel Wy!1-
lis married Ruth, daughter of Governor John Haynes, and of
whom a few words are necessary.
John Haynes was born in Hertford, England, in 1654. He
was a man of wealth and culture and lived on his estate of Cap-
ford Hallin Essex before emigrating. In company with Thomas
Hooker he sailed in the Griffin and arrived in Massachusetts in
1633. In the year following he was made a freeman and also
an assistant, becoming governor of Massachusetts in 1635. Re-
moving to Connecticut a year later, he settled in Hartford, and
in 1639 was made first governor of Connecticut. Thereafter,
until his death, in 1654, he was chosen governor every alternate
year. Governor Haynes was one of the five authors of the first
constitution of Connecticut in 1638, which embodies the main
points of all subsequent state constitutions and of the Federal
Constitution. He was a man of great uprightness and refine-
ment of character, and of strong religious convictions. He tem-
pered justice with mercy and had the power of making himself
greatly beloved. His life was spotless and his character with-
out reproach.
Of the six ancestors whose records were filed by Mr Hubbard
in the archives of our society there still remains one to be men-
tioned, namely, the father of Samuel Wyllis.
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 57
George Wyllis was descended from an old and honored fam-
ily, and was born in Warwick, England, about 1570. He re-
ceived a liberal education and settled on a valuable estate in
Knapton; but, espousing the cause of the Puritans, he sent his
steward, William Gibbons, with twenty men to purchase an es-
tate in Hartford, and on which to erect a suitable house for
himself and family. Two years later he sailed for America, |
and at once on his arrival became an important member of the
colony. Hewas one of the framers of the constitution in 1689,
and at the first election that was held under it was chosen one of
the six magistrates of Connecticut, holding that office until his
death. In 1641 he was chosen deputy governor, and a year later
was elevated to the higher office. Governor Wyllis was famed
for his social and domestic virtues, his simplicity of manner, and
his love of civil and religious liberty. He died in Hartford in
1645.
It would be a pleasant task to mention other ancestors of Mr
Hubbard, and even to continue his genealogical line down to
himself. Moreover, it would be of interest to point out those
traits of character that were inherited from his forefathers ; but
time will not permit.
It is axiomatic that ‘“‘ pride of ancestry is a natural and en-
nobling sentiment.” Well might Mr Hubbard be proud of his
ancestors. As educators, ministers, governors, and generals, their
names stand out conspicuous in the annals of our American col-
onies; they were leaders of men. And of their descendant what
shall we say? Equally was hea leader among men, and law,
education, literature, and science have been advanced because
of his life.
President Brin: Dr Daniel C. Gilman, President of Johns
Hopkins University, was very dear to Mr Hubbard’s heart, and
he will speak upon him as a helper.
President Gruman: I come forward tonight not as a neighbor,
not as a colleague, not as a fellow-citizen, but as a friend, and I
speak to you as friends. It is natural that weshould regard the
benefactors of society in groups, by the various services they
render to their fellowmen. ‘The gifts of genius are dramatists,
poets, sculptures, pictures, buildings, and inventions; the gifts
of wealth are hospitals, libraries, churches, colleges, and institu-
tions; the gifts of wisdom are education, science, law, philosophy ;
but the gift that is best of all, the gift that smells sweet and blos-
soms in the dust, is the gift of one’s self for the benefit of others.
58 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
Our departed friend, as every speaker has reminded you, gave
himself almost without reserve during his residence in Washing-
ton and, as I have been told, throughout his long life to the
advancement of good ‘works. This title of remembrance is as
comprehensive as it is honorable; he was a helper of his fellow-
men. ‘Time, money, effort, thought, suggestion, influence, the
acquisitions of a long life and the experience of a versatile career,
were at the service of any one who needed them. All classes and
conditions of men were his clients; the writer, the editor, the
preacher, the artist, the inventor, the investigator, the arbitrator,
and the statesman turned to him for counsel, and never went
empty away. Men of science trusted his good sense, men of
affairs knew his sagacity, men of education depended upon his
advice, philanthropists and men of religion were sure of his sup-
port. At home everything was for others ; his books, engravings,
etchings, and, in summer, his grounds, with their shrubbery,
shade trees, and flowers, were given to hospitality. Nothing for
display, but everything that strangers might be friends and that
neighbors might become more friendly through the amenities of
social intercourse.
In the city of his choice it was natural that a man of such
breadth, of such varied observations in other lands, and of such
eagerness for information should be best known as the founder
of a society whose field is the world, and which believes that
nothing human is alien, nothing in nature barren or dry. What
plans he suggested, what persuasiveness he employed, what suc-
cesses he won in bringing to the front the makers of geography,
the interpreters of the earth, air, and sea, are all well known to
one who has spent a winter in this capital, and best of all to you
who are here assembled.
In the world at large he was regarded as an original promoter
of that epoch-making invention which in twenty years has not
only revolutionized the processes by which speech can be heard
at a distance, but has completely changed the business usages of
every country where civilization is found. To those who knew
our friend only as a business man or only ata distance, this gives
him fame. But there are others, like the speaker, who came
near to him during the latter years of his life, and never heard
him speak of business or allude to his successes, who never met
him when his mind was not alert to promote a cause, to render
a service, to encourage merit, to remove perplexities, or to find
the right man. These seemed to be the occupations not of leis-
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 59
ure, but of life. Most noteworthy has been his devotion, as you
have already been told, from an early period of his life, to the
welfare of the deaf. He was one of the first to believe that they
could be taught to speak with their lips, and he lived to see this
belief transferred from the domain of faith to that of fact.
* As I recall the manifold subjects I have heard him discuss, I
know not which is the more remarkable, the range of his sym-
pathy or the depth of his goodwill. The possible relief of Helen
Kellar; now a rare print that he had acquired or an attractive
book he was reading; now the Garfield hospital ; now the mem-
ory of Abraham Lincoln, or the story of Napoleon Bonaparte,
of Greely, Melville, or Nansen; now the promotion of interna-
tional intercourse and the prevention of war; now the relief of
the Armenians; the possible establishment of a National Uni-
versity ; now the awards to be bestowed upon exhibitors at At-
lanta and at Nashville; now and always the support of the Smith-
sonian Institution, the Geological Survey, and every scientific
bureau supported by the Government.
The graces of a good ancestry, of a liberal education, and of
wide intercourse with his fellowmen, and of a home where the
refinement and affection of a devoted wife and children were
supreme, enriched his life and adorned his character. His heart
craved sympathy; he must keep in touch with those whom he
trusted—by speech, by print, by mail, by wire. Few men val-
ued friendship as he valued it, and the much that he required
he returned with ample usury.
Public station would not have increased his influence nor
added to his happiness; it would have fettered his spontaneity
and his impulses. Itis as dear friend; considerate, helpful, and
strong, versatile and suggestive, that we who have known him
well now call him venerable and beloved because he was the
helper of his fellowmen.
President Bern: Mr Hubbard’s great interest in the advance-
ment of science in America led to the foundation of an inde-
pendent scientific journal for the use of scientific men on this
continent, and I shall call upon Major J. W. Powell, Director of
the Bureau of American Ethnology, Associate Editor of Science,
and ex-Director of the United States Geological Survey, to speak
on behalf of the journal Science.
Major Powrti: This is an age of specialized literature. The
daily papers serve a daily purpose; but when the day is gone
the paper is gone. A flame is kindled twenty-four hours after
60 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
the issue of the daily paper in every home in America, and the
yesterday’s news is the origin of this household fire, but it comes
to us freighted with power with the same regularity that longi-
tudes wheel to the matinal light. Weekly, biweekly, monthly,
and quarterly journals have a longer life. .Within the last quar-
ter of acentury the magazine has become a forum in which pub-
lic men find expression for their best thoughts to a large public,
who wish to consider with care the current questions of the day
and preserve the material thus utilized for future reference. For
this reason it has come about that magazines have multiplied.
All thoughtful people are now magazine readers. The daily
press has become the mighty organ of current news, business
life, and political affairs, while the magazine is the organ of cur-
rent thought as literature and science. The daily paper,.re-
viewing the daily affairs of life, makes comment on public men,
public measures in the nation, the state, and the city. It pours
out wit and humor, sometimes good, sometimes far-fetched, with
a story for the idle and a syndicate letter for the inquisitive,
which are read and forgotten, all going to the morning crematory.
Neglecting the magazine as the organ of literature and consid-
ering itas the organ of science, by a careful review of the subject
it will be seen that the correlation of scientific research and the
organization of scientific opinion is now largely dependent upon
magazine literature.
In late years this new organ for the correlation of scientific
research hassprune up. The heat, light, electricity, magnetism,
and gravity of which the ether is the medium between celestial
orb and celestial orb, the orbs themselves, of which the earth is
a modest member, stealing its way through the universe by an
unseen path, content with reflecting the light of others—the earth
itself, with its moving atmosphere, hydrosphere, lithosphere, and
centrosphere—all codperate with the chemical agencies that are
forever reconstituting the rocks of the earth, and these through
their mantle of soil coédperate with living vegetal forms, and
these again codperate with the hosts of animate things. This
vast system of codperation between the hierarchy of bodies which
constitute our solar system allies every man engaged in scientific
research to every other man who studies the ways of nature.
For the solution of the problems connected with every crys-
tal, every plant, and every animal cannot reach their final solu-
tion without considering the whole world of bodies. One human
mind cannot solve them all. Inductive research must consider
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 61
all of the multitude of particulars in every body, and those
observed by one must be added to those observed by others be-
fore the induction is complete. Then deduction may enter the
field for the final reconstruction of the external universe in a
hierarchy of valid concepts representing the hierarchy of the
universe until the universe itself shall be reproduced in every
human mind.
Many men must work together to operate a railroad across the
continent; but when codperating, what feats of transportation
they can accomplish. All the men of the world could not carry
the freight from San Francisco to New York which could be
transported by one railroad. Codperation in scientific work is
equally economic. The problems of the universe are to be solved,
and they cannot be without the organized labor of research. To
expect men to accomplish this labor without codperation is like
expecting men to gather the wheat of the prairie and carry it on
their shoulders to the seaside mart; but a selected few of those
laborers may easily perform the task when they are organized
as railroad transporters.
By what agency can the men engaged in scientific research
cooperate in the solution of the problems of the universe?
Scientific men will solve these problems when they codperate,
for all problems can be solved after they are stated. One man
may be an agnostic, but all men are not agnostic for all time;
while much of the universe is unknown, the universe is not un-
knowable. The universe is unknowable only to the fool who
would try to carry it in a sack on his own shoulder.
There is an army of men engaged in research in America which
is but an integral part of the world’s scientific men. In 1883
two men, Gardiner Greene Hubbard and Alexander Graham
Bell, sought to more thoroughly organize the American army
and put it in codperation with the world’s scientific host; for
this purpose they essayed to organize a magazine or journal of
science. They called to their aid President Gilman, of the Johns
Hopkins University ; Professor Marsh, of Yale College, and Pro-
fessor Scudder, of Harvard. Mr Scudder was made the editor
and the journal was launched on the sea of publication.
This journal was specialized in five departments: First, there
was editorial comment on public affairs relating to the institu-
tions of research in America; second, its columns were open to
the discussion of scientific subjects by the leaders of thought ;
third, it was a medium for the announcement of discoveries ;
62 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
fourth, it contained announcements of what men and institu-
tions were doing in America; and, fifth, it contained a summary
of thescientific progress of the world. In these five departments
the two volumes of the first year contained a well-digested sum-
mary of the current scientific thought and accomplishment in
America and throughout the world. This journal was called
Science; and it had engaged in the labor of its preparation many
men in the different departments of research employed in the
preparation of materials for publication relating to all branches
of work. It inaugurated the new era in America. Hitherto
men had worked largely in isolation, without the sympathy and
assistance of their fellowmen; few of them meeting once or twice
a year for conference as the American Association for the Ad-
vancement of Science and the National Academy; but in the
general isolation diversities of opinion sprang up and grew to
unnecessary proportions, so that the infrequent meetings of scien-
tific bodies were characterized by bitter discussion which often
led to lifelong antagonism. Under the egis of this journal there
sprang into existence many more organizations, and the meet-
ings of scientific men were multiplhed and the differences of scien-
tific men were harmonized ; ultimate differences of opinion were
modified and mollified and the whole spirit of research as exhib-
ited on this continent was transformed; jealousies and antag-
onisms melted in the sunlight of publication. In the host of
scientific workers there has always been a few men exploiting
on the verge of research whose chief delight is in controversy
and who consider that eminence can best be acquired by attack-
ing their fellowmen. This modicum of malcontents were speed-
ily relegated to the purlieus of disputation and the real workers
remain to cooperate, encourage, and assist.
Since 1883 the journal has passed through many vicissitudes,
and many experiments have been made with it in order that it
might become self-supporting, and many efforts have been made
to secure an enlarged clientage, but the first three volumes estab-
lished the high-water mark of scientific journalism and are ideals
for all future enterprises in this field. In this manner the
founders of the journal, led by Mr Hubbard, contributed to the
organiz ition of scientific research. In later years I had the honor
to be called into their councils, and I know how earnestly they
labored to make a magazine worthy of the scientific public, and
wherein there was failure and wherein there was success. Mr
Hubbard was the leading spirit in all this work and to it he gave
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 63
much time and profound thought. It was designed, not as a
business enterprise, but as a contribution to science; not for the
purpose of accumulating a property from which a revenue could
be derived, but of establishing a means of communication for
scientific men, to be presented to them as their journal.
In the library on Connecticut avenue and under the shadow
of Twin Oaks Mr Hubbard was wont to assemble his friends in
conference on scientific subjects; often the magazine was the
theme under consideration; other interests of science were also
considered. The hours which he spent with his friends in con-
sultation from day to day, month to month, year to year, en-
deared him to an ever-enlarging circle of public men, for his
sympathies were wide, his plans large, and the resources of his
genius great, and, though he has gone, the works of his heart and
mind will remain to bless mankind.
I could talk with a full heart of Mr Hubbard as a friend.
Through many years at his home in the city and at his home
in the country and in far-away lands and in long journeys across
the continent I spent many hours with him, and while I hon-
ored him asa public man, and think what he has accomplished,
‘these days and years have more than led me to learn to love
him as a friend.
President BELL: Mr Hubbard was Vice-President of the Co-
lumbia Historical Society. I will call upon the Honorable A. R.
Spofford to say a few words on behalf of that Society.
Mr Sporrorp: The talents and energies of him whom we com-
memorate tonight embraced a wide and varied field. His active
mind took in many subjects of inquiry, and his sympathy and
aid were hospitably given to so many causes and objects of pub-
lic interest that it is perhaps difficult to name any of the more
important in which, at some time or other, his name and influ-
ence were not invoked. One of the more recently organized of
the societies devoted to objects of research to which he belonged
was theColumbia Historical Society. Thisassociation was formed
March 7, 1894, at a meeting held at Columbian University, adding
another to the historical societies, now numbering nearly three
hundred, which have been organized with a view to preserve and
perpetuate historical knowledge in the United States.
To this meeting, not being able to be present on account of ab-
sence from the city, Mr Hubbard sent a note throughia friend who
was a leading promoter of the movement, suggesting the possi-
bility of some encroachment, in the new society to be organized,
64 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
upon the sphere of the Memorial Association of the District of
Columbia, of which he was himself an active and earnest mem-
ber. But, upon discussion of this suggestion by gentlemen pres-
ent who were affiliated with both societies, it was the concur-
rent judgment of the meeting that the objects proposed for the
Historical Society were of a much more comprehensive scope,
embracing the wide field of investigation of the annals of Wash-
ington and the District of Columbia, its foundation, history (civil,
literary, political, and ecclesiastical), biography, statistics, public
works, education, and development generally. The special aim
of the Memorial Association, on the other hand, was to preserve
and commemorate historic buildings, marking by tablets or oth-
erwise ancient landmarks, and endeavoring to perpetuate an in-
terest in the past of Washington city by fitting memorials.
At the meeting following the preliminary conference referred
to, namely, on the 12th of April, 1894, the Historical Society was
fully organized. Gardiner G. Hubbard was one of the original
charter members, signed the constitution, and was elected first
vice-president of the society. His great preoccupation, how-
ever, with the work of other societies, and especially that of the
National Geographic Society, over which he presided with such
signal ability, prevented his attendance at the monthly meetings
of the Historical Society, and for this he frequently expressed
his regret. On May 29, 1894, feeling his inability longer to hold
himself ready to discharge the duties of vice-president, he tend-
ered his resignation of that office in a letter, assigning as a ground
for his action that he was unable to give to its duties his per-
sonal attention. The resignation was accepted, and Hon. John
A. Kasson was chosen vice-president in place of Mr Hubbard,
and succeeded to the presidency, by election, after the death of
Dr Joseph M. Toner, the first president of the society.
At a later day Mr Hubbard, continuing his membership, rec-
ommended to the society, in a letter of November 29, 1895,
through the secretary, a lecture by Professor Lewis on “ Lafayette
and the Historians,” which, however, was not delivered.
Regarding Mr Hubbard’s life-long interest in historicak sub-
jects, those who knew him the best can best testify. An earnest
student and a wide reader from early years, he was also a busy
and intelligent collector of books. Upon the history of countries
he read much and was unusually well informed. His many
addresses and articles contributed to the Geographic Society
evinced the breadth of his culture and the wealth of his knowl-
A adhe
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 65
edge upon the history and resources, as well as the topography,
of the regions treated by him.
It is pertinent for me to mention here, as an example of the
thorough method of Mr Hubbard in treating the history of any
subject, the elaborate article furnished by him to the Atlantic
Monthly for January, 1875, entitled “ Our Post-office.” This
historical article contains an admirable condensation of the facts
regarding the postal system of the United States and its prede-
cessors, the colonial and British post-office establishments. It
draws many instructive parallels and points out the departures
from the true objects of a governmental postal system, the quick
and cheap diffusion of the people’s correspondence and period-
icals, through the carriage of mere merchandise in the mails,
leading to large annual deficits. The article, although appear-
ing in the pages of a periodical, is of great and permanent value.
The same may be said of another of Mr Hubbard’s studies,
upon a subject of greatest practical interest to the people, namely,
his article on ‘‘ Proposed Changes in the Telegraphic System,”
published in the North American Review for July, 1878. This
presents a history of the various American lines of telegraph up
to its date, and is a close and careful analysis of the whole sys-
tem, with comparative statistics of the telegraph as managed by
governments in foreign countries and by corporations in the
United States.
Of Mr Hubbard as book-collector, art lover, and connoisseur
others will doubtless make fitting record. His iibrary was large
and select, and his refined taste led him to make choice always
of the best editions. Like most bibliophiles, he read many sale
catalogues of books, imported liberally from many of the best
book-houses in London and on the continent, and had a marked
liking for fine bindings. In the graphic arts his knowledge and
taste were of the first order, and his large collection of early and
late engravings, etchings, etc., was one of the finest gathered by
a private individual. ‘These were the recreations of a busy man
of affairs, and the collection, study, and illustration for the ben-
efit of others (which he sometimes consented to offer in the form
of an art lecture) were a source of constant gratification to his
generous spirit.
President Bett: The Honorable John W. Ross, Chairman of
the Board of Commissioners of the District of Columbia, will
speak on behalf of the city of Washington and the District of
Columbia.
5
66 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
Mr. Ross: The honorable part has been assigned to me of
speaking of the late President of our society with regard to his
business activities and as a citizen of the District of Columbia.
My last meeting with him was on an occasion when he was
serving this people ina most effective manner. In the month of
September, 1897, a committee of the National Educational Asso-
ciation came to Washington to consider its availability as the
city in which to hold their next annual gathering. Through the
courtesy of the proprietor of the Riggs house a banquet was given
to the visiting delegates and to the local committees, in order
that our citizens might confer with the representatives of the
National Association and explain to them the exceptional advan-
tages offered here in comparison with the other cities under con-
sideration. Mr Hubbard was one of Washington’s most influ-
ential champions at that meeting. As I recall the enthusiasm
and earnestness with which he portrayed the great educational
features of the capital, it is difficult to realize the truth that he
was then about 75 years of age. To him and to the other re-
sourceful promoters of our cause is due the gratifying result that
Washington will, in July next, welcome the largest convention
of educators ever assembled in the United States.
Amid all the cares and responsibilities which attended his
useful life, Mr Hubbard never evaded any municipal duty.
While he never sought preferment by the appointment of the
executive officers of the District, yet his practical ability and
his zeal were so generally recognized that successive boards of
District Commissioners appreciated the fact that they served and
promoted District interests by appointing him to positions of
trust and responsibility. In May, 1896, he was selected as a
member of the Tennessee Centennial Exposition Commission.
In June, 1896, he was chosen a member of the board of trustees
of the Free Public Library. In March, 1897, he was appointed
one of the commission for the Omaha Exposition of 1898. He
was also an active member of the board of directors of the Cen-
tral Dispensary and Emergency Hospital. The duties pertain-
ing to these positions were willingly assumed by him, notwith-
standing his exacting engagements to the scientific societies of
the District; and in so far as any work could be done, it was per-
formed by him with fidelity and ability.
Next to the great cause of scientific research, he loved his
adopted home. There was not a movement made having for its
end the prestige, the adornment, or the development of the Na-
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 67
tional Capital which did not have his strong and sturdy support.
From his beautiful home on the heights beyond Rock creek he
had within his view that ideal site bounded by the Potomac, the
Anacostia, and the commanding hills which border those streams
whereon the wise foresight of Washington founded the chief cap-
ital city of the new world.
Every surrounding appealed to his keen sense of the beau-
tiful and strengthened his conviction that Washington was des-
tined to be the most superb of the world’s capitals. He believed
that as the one and only city belonging to all the people of the
United States, as the official home of the President, of the Con-
eress, and of the 15,000 Government employés from the States
of the Union, it of right should, as to its facilities for the educa-
tion of its youth, as to its healthful conditions and surroundings,
as to its means of protection of life and property, and as to its
promotion of the comfort and well-being of the public servants
residing here, be the first and foremost of American cities; and
that the members of the enlightened Congress of the United”
States, as its immediate custodians, should regard any impair-
ment or lowering of that standard a slight and an insult to their
own constituents. His high character and strong personality
helped to impress these, his views, upon the national representa-
tives with whom he was associated.
In the decease of Gardiner Greene Hubbard, therefore, the
people of this municipality have suffered a grievous loss and
bereavement. It may not be unfair to the living to state that
there is no one quite so well fitted by temperament, by training,
and by practical tact and ability to perform all the several roles
on the stage of human activity which he enacted so well. His
tall and commanding form and the kindly tones of his voice will
be missed wherever Washinetonians may assemble to foster and
protect the best interests of the District of Columbia.
His name should and doubtless will, in time, be borne by some
appropriate municipal building. We cannot hope even by all
these tokens of respect and affection to give adequate expression
to our sorrow or to our appreciation of his public service. The
most eloquent tribute to his memory on the part of his surviy-
ing associates would be an emulation of his civic virtues and an
effort to be as zealous, as sincere, and as patriotic as he was in
the performance of every public duty.
President BeLi: The last address of the evening will be made
by General A. W. Greely, Chief Signal Officer of the United
68 GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD
States Army and Senior Vice-President of the National Geo-
eraphic Society, on behalf of that Society.
Gen. A. W. GREELY: When I first came to know Mr Hubbard
his years were such as had well won a right to rest, but with
noble discontent he held the creed, “Old age hath yet his honor
and his toil.” How great that toil it has been for few to know;
how great that honor in some way we felt before death touched
him, but its full extent has only been revealed by this notable
memorial meeting in the capital city of the Nation, of which
he was so proud. The school, the library, the university, the
Smithsonian Institution, the church—in short, all the varied ele-
ments of a Christian civilization, in which he was not only an
actor but an inspirer—are distinct losers by his death. It is,
however, the National Geographic Society that has a right to feel
itself especially bereft, for this Society was the child of his old
age, which had won his heart, for which he toiled at all seasons,
and toward which, last of all, turned his thought and affection.
His last months were filled with plans for the fit celebration of
our tenth anniversary, which now lacks so much by his absence,
but which also seeks inspiration for the future by a brief review
of the past. Mr Hubbard was not only our President for these
ten years, but he was also an initiator and an incorporator of the
Society. At the original meeting, on January 13, 1888, there were
present thirty-three individuals, who have increased to an aggre-
gate membership of 2,421, of whom remain with us 1,572, the
loss by death and resignation being 849.
In his introductory address of February 17,1888, Mr Hubbard
set forth the aims and objects of the Society on broad and gener-
ous lines, thus insuring growth and success. Hesaid, “ lam one
of those who desire to further the prosecution of geographical
research. We hope to bring together, first, the scattered workers
of our country ; second, the persons who desire to promote their
researches.”
The work was to be patriotic, educational, and scientific. How
far it succeeded is rather a record of facts than an expression of
opinion. It appealed to the spirit of patriotism by the estab-
lishment of two departments, the Geography of the Air and the
Geography of the Sea, representing the two allied branches of
meteorology and oceanography that owe their initial formation
to the genius and activity of Americans. To this Society is due
the credit that America was fittingly associated through the
means of a Geographical Conference at the Columbian Exposi-
GARDINER GREENE HUBBARD 69
tion at Chicago, an exposition that celebrated contemporaneously
the discovery of America and the birth of modern geography.
Again, at the meeting of the British Association for the Advance-
ment of Science, at Toronto, this Society upheld the dignity of
our country by a series of geographic papers that won the gener-
ous praise of Huropean scientists. Conjointly with other Ameri-
can societies, it played a conspicuous part in the proceedings of
the International Geographic Congress in London in 1895. On
this last occasion, it may be added, it excited attention by the
presence of women as delegates, thus emphasizing our broad
spirit of indiscrimination in advancing science by the codpera-
tion of all willing workers and promoters. The Lenten lectures
of 1898, Mr Hubbard’s last plan of work, will do patriotic service
by bringing to our members an appreciation of the advantages
and a pride in the evolution of the great and varied sections that
constitute the American Union.
On educational lines the Society has striven, not with the
greatest success, it must be said, to stimulate proper geographic
instruction in schools and universities. It has also added to
geographic literature a series of monographs, written by eminent
specialists, which have elicited praise from foreign scientists
that must bear good fruit in their use by American teachers.
Our regular winter course of lectures, by eminent specialists and
on timely topics, exceed in number, variety, and utility those
furnished by any other geographic society in the world.
In science this Society has done important work, if only in
forming under governmental auspices a Board on Geographic
Names. In our technical meetings have been presented and dis-
cussed papers of great value, and the influence of many of these
papers has been extended by their publication in Tor Narronan
GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE.
Among other important work should be noted the encourage-
ment of exploration in Alaska, the establishment of THE Na-
TIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, now in its ninth year, and the
instituting of geographic field days.
Finally, we have a right to ask, Could any organization in the
first ten years of its existence more fully carry out its initial
plan than has this Society? In deserving and winning this
success no other member did so much as did Mr Hubbard.
Dealing with a Board of Managers composed of able but positive
men, it was Mr Hubbard’s strength that he was receptive, con-
ciliatory, and practical. Many a seemingly hopeless idea he
70 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
changed into practical form, and often from conflicting opinions
he evolved an acceptable plan.
It would be placing Mr Hubbard’s labors on a low plane to
say that this Society throve only by them. He had the higher
aim to interweave his labors with others, and so to plan and
build that he might exert an enduring influence. This higher
work he accomplished. We feel that the future of this Society
is not doubtful; that it will continue to maintain its high ideals
of public usefulness by fostering patriotism, by stimulating edu-
cation, and by advancing science. ‘Thus it will best show its
active appreciation of the labors of Gardiner Greene Hubbard,
and in thus doing justify the poet’s words:
““So when a great man dies,
For years beyond our ken
The light he leaves behind him lies
Upon the paths of men.”
President BeLti: The meeting is now adjourned.
PROCEEDINGS OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
SOCIETY, SESSION 189708
Regular Meeting, December 17, 1897. —Vice-President Greely in the chair.
The Chairman spoke of the recent death of President Hubbard and an-
nounced that a committee had been appointed to make arrangements for a
memorial meeting. He also stated that Mr Everett Hayden had re-
signed the office of Recording Secretary, and that Mr F. H. Newell had been
designated to fill the vacancy. Professor D. G. Elliot, of the Field Co-
lumbian Museum, gave an illustrated lecture entitled ‘‘A Naturalist’s
Expedition to East Africa.”’
Special Meeting, January 7, 1898.—Mr W J McGee introduced with ap-
propriate remarks the new President, Dr Alexander Graham Bell, who
took the chair. Mr H. Snowden Ward gave an illustrated lecture enti-
tled ‘‘ Shakespeare at Home.’’
Regular Meeting, January 14, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the
chair. Surgeon-General George M. Sternberg gave an illustrated lecture
on the Geographical Distribution of Yellow Fever.
Special Meeting, Januarg 21, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the
chair. This was a memorial meeting in honor of the services and char-
acter of the late President Gardiner G. Hubbard. About 1,000 members
and guests were present. Addresses were made by Surgeon-General
Sternberg, U.S. A.; President Wilson, of Washington and Lee Univer-
sity ; President Whitman, of Columbian University ; President Gilman, of
GHOGRAPHIC LITERATURE “1
Johns Hopkins University; Dr Marcus Benjamin, Hon. A. R. Spofford,
Dr Caroline A. Yale, Professor S. P. Langley, Hon. John W. Ross, Major
J. W. Powell, and General A. W. Greely.
Regular Meeting, January 28, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the
chair. Mr N. H. Darton gave an dllustrated lecture on the Bad Lands of
South Dakota and Nebraska. .
Exections.—New members have been elected as follows :
December 14.—Miss Mary O. Dean, Mrs Annis H. Enochs, Lieut. C. D.
Galloway, U. S. N., Alexander Grant, Mrs Gardiner G. Hubbard, E. G.
Kimball, Gerard H. Matthes, E. W. Nelson, Professor Henry 8. Pritchett,
Charles H. Stevenson, Miss Mary A. Taylor.
December 27.—Elmer I. Applegate, Major E. 8. Godfrey, U. 8. A., Wil-
liam Ogilvie, W. H. Wiley.
December 81.—Dr Arthur M. Edwards, F. F. Hilder, Professor W. H.
Norton. \ °
January 7, 1898.—Miss Rachel C. Brown, Cyrus L. Hall, Dr F. C. Ken-
yon, Miss A. M. Lakeman, Heber J. May.
January 14.—William Churchill, S. F. Emmons, Miss Margaret French.
January 24.—Miss Mabelle Biggart, Miss Mira Lloyd Dock, Levi Maish,
Daniel P. Mumbrue, August Piepho.
GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
Stanford’s Compendium of Geography and Travel. North America, Vol. I;
Canada and Newfoundland. By Samuel Edward Dawson. Pp. 719,
with 18 maps and 90 illustrations. London: Edward Stanford. 1897.
This work forms part of a revision of Stanford’s Compendium, the first
edition of which was published in 1883. In that edition Canada and the
United States occupied one volume. In the present the Dominion occu-
pies, with Newfoundland, one large volume, being more than doubled in
size. The book is simply a geographical description of the British pos-
sessions in North America. Its first chapter, after the introduction, de-
scribes the American side of the north Atlantic. Then the Dominion of
Canada is taken up as a whole—its extent, area, boundaries, relief, drain-
age system, climate, fauna, Indian tribes, political organization, popula-
tion, means of communication, government, history, and industries.
Each of the provinces is then described under much the same plan, but
in greater detail, in succeeding chapters. This method of description
involves much repetition, greatly and unnecessarily extending the book.
An interesting chapter is included in the history of Acadia. The illus-
trations and maps are excellent and the type and paper all that could be
desired. Altogether, the work, asa description of our northern neighbor,
is easily the best yet published. It is curious to find, however, at this
late date any one gravely contending for the preposterous claims of Great
72 GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
Britain in regard to the international boundary on the north of Maine,
as is done by the author of this book. The story may be briefly told:
By the treaty of peace at the close of the revolution that boundary was
placed, in terms, on the divide between the Atlantic and the St Lawrence.
No sane, disinterested person could interpret this otherwise than as mean-
ing the divide north of St Johns river; but Great Britain, with her ac-
customed modesty, claimed that the divide referred to was that between
the Penobscot and the St Johns. The matter was finally referred to the
King of Holland, who split the difference between the conflicting claims
and placed the boundary on the St Johns river. And now our author
pleads that Great Britain fared hardly under this decision. H. G.
A pamphlet recently issued by Dr E. L. Corthell, C. E., entitled ‘* Re-
marks Before the Committee on Rivers and Harbors,” contains a history
of the jetties at the mouth of the Mississippi and a statement of the
dangers to which navigation is now subjected at that point. Twenty-five
years ago New Orleans was well-nigh cut off from the sea by reason of
bars which had been deposited at the mouth of the passage. Southwest
Pass, then the broadest and deepest, had a depth of water at its mouth
of barely 18 feet. To remedy this it was proposed by the Board of Army
Engineers to canalize the Southwest Pass, at a cost of eleven and a half
million dollars. In opposition to this Mr James B. Kads proposed, at his
own risk, to build jetties and maintain a channel 30 feet deep. After a
long struggle Mr Eads’ proposition was accepted, with certain modifica-
tions, the principal of which was that South Pass, a much narrower and
shallower outlet, should be taken, and that a depth of 26 feet, or a breadth
of not less than 200 feet, should be opened and maintained. Every one
knows the triumphant success of Mr Eads’ project, that the river has cut
away its bar at the mouth of South Pass, and a depth of 34 feet has been
maintained through South Pass for a score of years. Now, however,
these improvements are seriously threatened. In 1891 a crevasse was cut
through the low bank just above the head of South Pass, and through
this crevasse a large proportion of the river’s water is pouring to the Gulf,
so large a proportion that a sufficient flow cannot be obtained through
South Pass to keep the channel clear, and it is rapidly silting up. The
Eads executors have spent, in attempts to close this crevasse, $145,000.
BGs
Mapaaascar. A steamship line has been organized between Havre and
Madagascar. The telegraphic system of the island is being rapidly ex-
tended.
SwirzerRLtaAnp. The total value of importations into Switzerland in 1896
was $191,814,822, or $58,980,443 in excess of the exports. Germany fur-
nished 30.7 per cent of the imports and took 25 per cent of the exports,
France following with 17.9 and i1.8 per cent, Italy with 13.8 and 5.7 per
cent, Great Britain with 5.2 and 21.4 per cent, the United States with
4 and 10.3 per cent, and Austria-Hungary with 7.2 and 5.9 per cent re-
spectively.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RY.
HE F. F. V. LIMITED is one of the finest trains hauled over any railway track in America. It runs
solid between Cincinnati and New York, the route from Washington being over the Pennsylvania
system. It has every modern convenience and appliance, and the dining-car service has no superior if
it has an equal. The road-bed is literally hewed out of the eternal rocks; it is ballasted with stone
from one end to the other; the greater portion is laid with one-hundred-pound steel rails, and although
curves are numerous in the mountain section, the ride is as smooth as over a Western prairie.
One of the most delightful rides in all the route is that through the New River valley. The
mountains are just low enough to be clad with verdure to the very top, and in the early spring every
variety of green known to the mixer of colors can be seen, while the tones in autumn take on all the
tange from brown to scarlet. ;
These facts should be borne in mind by the traveler between the East and the West.
H. W. FULLER, Genl/. Pass. Agent, Washington, D.C.
CALIFORNIA...
OF course you expect to go there this winter. Let
me whisper something in your ear. Be sure that
the return portion of your ticket reads viathe . . .
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Then you will see the grandest mountain scenery in
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made in Union Station, Portland, for Puget Sound
cities and the east, via Northern Pacific.
CHAS. S. FEE,
General Passenger Agent, St. Paul, Minn.
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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Write for Map Folders.
A. S. THWEATT, Eastern Passenger Agent, 271 Broadway, New York, N. Y.
J. C. HORTON, Passenger Agent, 201 E. Baltimore Street, Baltimore, Md.
L. S. BROWN, General Agent, 705 Fifteenth St. N. W., Washington, D.C.
J. H. WINGFIELD, Passenger Agent, Norfolk, Va.
S. H. HARDWICK, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Atlanta, Ga.
Cc. A. BENSCOTER, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Chattanooga, Tenn.
W. H. TAYLOE, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Louisville, Ky.
J. M. CULP, Traffic Manager. W. A. TURK, General Passenger Agent.
The Mutual Life Insurance Co.
OF NEW YORK,
RICHARD A. McCURDY, President,
Is the Largest Insurance Company in the World.
The Records of the Insurance Department of the State of New
York SHOW THAT The Mutual Life
Has a Larger Premium Income . = - ($39,000,000)
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ROBERT A. GRANNISS, Vice-President.
WALTER R. GILLETTE, General Manager. FREDERIC CROMWELL, Treasurer.
ISAAC F. LLOYD, Second Vice-President. EMORY McCLINTOCK, Actuary.
WILLIAM J. EASTON, Secretary.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST,
The only American magazine devoted to the science of Anthropology in
all its branches is THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST, published at the
National Capital. This journal is now in its eleventh year of increasing
usefulness.
No magazine ever published on the Western continent is such a
storehouse of authentic information concerning ARCHEOLOGY, ETHNOL-
OGY, FOLK-LORE, TECHNOLOGY, SocroLoGy, History, SOMATOLOGY,
PSYCHOLOGY, PHILOSOPHY, and PuHiLoLnocy. Its contributions to our
knowledge of these subjects, especially in so far as they relate to the
American Indians, past and present, are of world-wide authority. Its
contributors are America’s foremost scholars.
Is your name on the subscription list of the ANTHROPOLOGIST? If
not, it should be. No one interested in anthropology in any of its branches
can afford to be without it. Swzbscribe today. A new volume begins with
the January number.
A bibliography of the anthropologic literature of the world is one of its features,
Handsomely Printed—Abundantly Ilustrated.
Published Monthly—Two Dollars a Year.
Volume XI Begins with January, 1898.
ADDRESS: THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST,
1804 Columbia Road, Washington, D. C.
COMMENCED JANUARY, 1888. TWO VOLUMES PER YEAR.
THE AMERICAN GEOLOGIST,
LSS.
The Oldest Exclusively Geological Magazine Published in America
TERMS.
To Subscribers in the United States, Canada and Mexico............. ... $3.50 a year
Movother!Subseribers in the Postal Unions)... seen eiae eerie see 4.00 a year
The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST is issued monthly from the office of publication at Minne-
apolis, Minnesota, United States of America. Twenty volumes are completed; the twenty-
first began with the number for January, 1898. The magazine has received a cordial
welcome and a generous support from leading geologists everywhere and it is now
recognized as the exponent of the rapid geological progress that is taking place on
the continent of North America, including Canada, the United States and Mexico. No-
where else in the world are geologic phenomena exhibited on a more extensive scale
and nowhere else are results attained of greater economic and scientific importance.
The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST lays before its readers from month to month the latest
results of geological work. In addition to the longer papers it gives synopses of recent
geological publications and brief notes on current geological events.
THE GEOLOGICAL PUBLISHING CO.,
Minneapouis, Minn.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MONOGRAPHS
On the PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE EARTH’S SURFACE, designed especially to supply to teachers and
students of geography fresh and interesting material with which to supplement the regular text-book.
LIST OF MONOGRAPHS COMPRISING VOLUME I:
GENERAL PHYSIOGRAPHIC PROCESSES - - - - - -
GENERAL PHYSIOGRAPHIC FEATURES - - = - - - hy. W. Powell
PHYSIOGRAPHIC REGIONS OF THE UNITED STATES - - -
BEACHES AND TIDAL MARSHES OF THE ATLANTIC COAST Prot. N. S. Shaler
PRESENT AND EXTINCT LAKES OF NEVADA - - - - Prof. I. C. Russell
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS—NORTHERN SECTION - - - Bailey Willis
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS—SOUTHERN SECTION - - - C. Willard Hayes
MT. SHASTA—A TYPICAL EXTINCT VOLCANO - - - - J. S. Diller
THE NEW ENGLAND PLATEAU - - - - - - - Prof. W. M. Davis
NIAGARA FALLS AND ITS HISTORY - - - - - - G. K. Gilbert
Price for one set of ten monographs, $1.50. Five sets to one address, $6.00. Single monographs, 20c.
Remit with order to AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY,
New York - Cincinnati : Chicago
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TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM
An International Quarterly Journal
Edited by L. A. BAUER
With the Co-operation of Eminent Magneticians
ye the March, 1897, issue, this Journal, devoted exclusively to Terrestrial Magnetism and allied
subjects, such as Earth Currents, Auroras, Atmospheric Electricity, etc., entered on its second
volume. The hearty co-operation extended by the workers in this promising field of investigation, as
abundantly shown by the numbers thus far issued, has made this Journal the international organ for
making known the latest achievements. The magnetic needle has become such a promising instrument
of research, not only in terrestrial, but in cosmical physics, that this Journal appeals to a large class of
investigators. The geographer, the geologist, the astronomer, the meteorologist—all are interested in
the development of the subject of terrestrial magnetism. It should therefore receive their support.
Among the contributors of the main articles in the past have been Messrs. Barus, Borgen, Chree,
Eschenhagen, Littlehales, Riicker, Schmidt, Schuster, and de Tillo.
Future numbers will contain:
‘¢The Earth, a Great Magnet,’’
By Dr. J. A. FLEMING.
‘‘The Electrification of the Atmosphere,’’
By Pror. ALEXANDER MCADIE.
‘s The Height of the Aurora,”
By Pror. CLEVELAND ABBE.
‘‘The Distribution of Magnetic Observatories,’’
(Illustrated),
By Pror. MAX ESCHENHAGEN,
etc., etc.
_ The size of the Journal is royal octavo, a volume embracing about 200 pages. Domestic subscription
price: Two dollars; single numbers, fifty cents. Foreign subscription price: Nine shillings, nine
marks, or eleven francs. Address: .
TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM,
The University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, Ohio.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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OF NEW YORK,
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Is the Largest Insurance Company in the World.
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at Oma EASTON, Secretary.
PSTD pute ! Fidtir) ARAN ON a oy ce ae EA
x
is
ng
will contain, among other interesting features, the follow
; illustrated articles
ee
Iceland, Greenland, and Vineland in Sag
By MISS CORNELIA HORSFORD
Two Hundred Miles up the Kuskokwim
Mie Oe
ALSO A PORTRAIT OF
Prof. Alexander Graham Bell, LL.
ap PResiDENT OF THE Nationat Geocrapie Socuery.
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é pense WJ McGEE _ os HENRY GAN BIT
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CONTENTS) / |. akc
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BG ee NDER Logan pp
'D, GREENLAND, AND /
ELA (CORNELIA -HORSFORD. / 73.
PLETION OF HE DA BOCA DOCK. t) pee PS he )
HUNDRED MILES UP THE HE KUSKOKWIM. / | mat ‘
With illustrations. \ mf eau CHARLES, HALLOCK~. _ 85
M m ELIAS EXPEDITION OF PRINCE LUIGI OF SAVOY.
PRENCH-CANADIANS. i Va
GHT OF MT RA IER) ihe JRICHARD. U. GOODE.
eWORK BY THE B BUREAU oF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY. |
E LEWIS AND CLARKE ee Cc. C\ BABB.
BIC NAMES Ty Wes pe B oo,
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National Geographic Society
ORGANIZED, JANUARY, 1888
PRESIDENT
ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL
V tck- PRESIDENTS
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NAT. GEOG. MAG. VOL. IX, 1898, PL. 3
PERRET
RSC OE
wh
‘
SSA sy
SOA
RRO
TN ih
NRG
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HPP AES
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National Geographic Magazine
Vou. IX MARCH, 1898 No. 3
DWELLINGS OF THE SAGA-TIME IN ICELAND,
GREENLAND, AND VINELAND
By CornELIA HorsForD
The Saga-time began with the colonization of Iceland in 875
and lasted for about 150 years. During this time the oft-repeated
accounts of the discovery, colonization, and early history of Ice-
land, as well as that of all Scandinavia, acquired the form of
Sagas or narrations. Ari Thorgilsson, the historian, who was
born in Iceland in 1067 and died in 1148, was the first to write
down these events in chronological order. In each of the four
books attributed to this writer Greenland and Vineland are
briefly mentioned.* Other Sagas relate the adventures, trage-
dies, and family histories of the colonists, and among these are
the Sagas which tell about Greenland and Vineland.f
We know that Scandinavia has been a rich field for collecting
relics of the stone, bronze, and early iron ages, but no ruin of a
dwelling dating from the Saga-time has yet been identified in Den-
mark, Sweden, or Norway. This may be due to the lack of dura-
bility in the way of building the houses and to the custom of
using over and over again in new buildings all the suitable
material from the old walls.
In 1888 a young Icelander named Valt¥r Gudmundsson, who
was studying for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Uni-
* Islendingabok, Landnamabok, Kristni-Saga, and Konungabék,
+ Hauksb6k, Hiriks Saga Rauthi, and Flateyjarbok. Greenland and Vineland are also
briefly mentioned in the Fornmanna Ségur, Eyrbyggja Saga, and in three vellum manu-
seripts in the Arna-Magnzean Library at Copenhagen. An account of these will be
found in the first chapter of ‘‘ The Finding of Wineland the Good,” by Arthur Middle-
ton Reeves. London, 1890, Henry Frowde.
6
74 DWELLINGS OF THE SAGA-TIME IN
versity of Copenhagen, chose for the subject of his thesis “ Pri-
vate Dwellings in Iceland in the Saga-time.’* In preparing for
this he read every saga of his native literature, comparing each
description, sentence, and word relating to his subject, until in
imagination he had reconstructed every form of dwelling and
outhouse of the Saga-days. These buildings differed considera-
bly from the design given by Finsen in his edition of Gunnlaug’s
Saga, printed in 1775, which was the accepted model until the
publication of Dr Gudmundsson’s work.
In 1894 Lieutenant Daniel Brunn, of the Danish navy, was
sent by the Danish government to make extended researches
among the Norse ruins in Greenland. These researches went
far toward confirming the results of Dr Gudmundsson’s studies.
It was therefore with much gratification that Dr Gudmunds-
son (who was by that time professor of Old Norse literature and
history at the University of Copenhagen) accepted my commis-
sion to direct archeological researches for me among the ruined
dwellings and other works of man in Iceland during the summer
season of 1895.f He took with him from Copenhagen another
Icelander named Thorsteinn Erlingsson, and to him the greater
part of the work is to be accredited, for Dr Gudmundsson was
in attendance at the Icelandic Parliament and could not be
present in the field himself.
ICELAND
The Icelandic Antiquarian Society has done some good work
in the field. They have identified and roughly measured the
ruins of many historical farms and of several hundred booths at
some of the old open-air law courts called “things.” One or two
pagan temples have been dug out and carefully described, and
many burial mounds, which also belonged to the pagan days.
The ancient dwellings were situated on sloping ground, near
rivers or fjords.
From the-early days this has been believed to be the ruin of
the house built by Erik the Red in the Hawk River valley soon
after his marriage with Thorhild, and here his eldest son Leif
was probably born. Erik lived in four different places in Ice-
/
* “ Privatboligen paa Island i Saga-Tiden ” af Valtyr Gudmundsson. Copenhagen, 1889, |
Andr. Fred. Host & Sons, Forlag.
+The report of this expedition will soon be published by the Viking Club of London
under the title of ‘‘ Ruins of the Saga-Time.”
t The researches of this society are published yearly at Reykjavik, Iceland, in the
«Arbok hins Islenzka Fornleifafélags.”’
ICELAND, GREENLAND, AND VINELAND 75
SUPPOSED BIRTHPLACE OF LEIF ERIKSON
Jand before he finally settled in Greenland. The supposed ruins
of his houses on Oxney and Sudrey can still be seen also,” but
I do not know that any ruins have been identified at Drangar,
The ruins of these dwellings, when undisturbed, are low, grass-
grown ridges and hollows often difficult to detect, except when
stones protrude through the turf. A dwelling usually consisted
Perera Nee yee
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a SOP i <
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Se ee SS ee __1_____J 10 Meters.
VERTICAL SECTION OF AN APARTMENT
of three apartments: a hall or principal room, in which there
was always a fireplace; a sitting-room for the women, and a
store-room or pantry.t These apartments were like small houses,
*‘* Winding of Wineland the Good,” by A. M. Reeves, p. 165.
+“ Fortidsminder og Nutidshjem paa Island” of Daniel Brunn. Copenhagen, Ernst
Bojesen, p. 161.
76 DWELLINGS OF THE SAGA-TIME IN
each with a separate roof, but attached to each other, with pas-
sages through the thick walls. Near by were usually one or more
small outhouses. These dwellings were built on the surface of
the ground, which was probably levelled when necessary. The
floor was of firmly beaten earth.
The walls were one and a half meters thick and from one to
oneand a half meters high. The inner side was built of unhewn
stones and the interstices were filled with earth. The outer side
was of alternate layers of turf and stones, and the space between
the two sides was filled in with earth kneaded hard. When these
walls fall, the stones necessarily slip down on either side, and the
bottom row with the space between remains almost intact, unless
ene: Le oo REET
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0g lagra enti adalhusinu. a. fannst aska. ab. fannst aska og hrossténnur.
_ RUIN OF PAGAN TEMPLE AT THYRLI
Arbok Hins Islenzka Fornleifafelags, 1880-1881
unnaturally disturbed. Often, however, the walls were built en-
tirely of layers of turf or with only disconnected rows of stones
at the base.
The drawing of the pagan temple at Thyrl shows the manner
of laying the inner and outer sides of a wall with the earth be-
tween the two. A large stone, of course, extends farther back
into this earth between than a small one does.
The inside measurement of a hall varied from 3 to 7 meters
in width and from 10 to 17 metersin length. The plan is of the
ruin of Hrik the Red’s house, shown above from a photograph.
A long narrow fire-place usually extended through the middle of
the room. This was either paved or surrounded with stones
standing on edge, and was about 3 meters long and from 60 to 80
centimeters broad. Besides the long fire which served to warm
and light the hall, there was a small cooking fire made in the
same way, about 1 meter square and raised a few centimeters
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PLAN OF THE HOUSE OF ERIK THE RED IN HAUKADALE
above the level of the floor. Other non-essential forms of fire-
place I need not describe here. A separate apartment was often
formed by erecting a thin partition across a room, as is shown
in this plan by the dotted line. Pavements, but more often
thresholds made of one or more long stone slabs, were some-
times in the doorways and also in the passages through the thick
walls between the apartments. The outhouse shown at the
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RUIN OF SAMSSTADIR IN HIGORSARDALR
78 DWELLINGS OF THE SAGA-TIME IN
left was about 18 meters from the door of the house, on the
steep mountain side. It was 4 meters square, built of turf only,
and partially underground. There was a large square platform
of stones in one corner which had served for a fire-place.
Narrow platforms of earth faced along the outer edge with
upright stones, on which the inhabitants both sat and slept, ex-
tended along one or both sides of the hall. In the large halls
these platforms were about 23 centimeters high and 14 meters
broad. Sometimes there was also a broader platform at one end
of the hall. Samsstadir is one of the farmsteads in the Thor’s
River valley which was buried during an eruption of Mount
Hecla in the fourteenth century. This valley is called the
Pompeii of Iceland. The farm was probably abandoned about
1500. It shows the first change in the evolution toward thicker
walls.
With the exception of some spinning-stones, which were found
in the sitting-room of a house not shown here, no relics were
found during these researches. It is also an interesting fact that
no runic inscription belonging to the Saga-time or for two cen-
turies later has yet been found in Iceland.
The evolution which has taken place in house-building since
the Saga-time has been in the steady increase in the thickness
of the walls until their breadth is nearly doubled, a slight in-
crease in height, not admitting 2 second story under the roof,
and the addition of many apartments, so that from a distance
the many roofs of a farmstead look almost like a little village.
GREENLAND
Greenland was discovered and colonized by Erik Thorvaldsson
toward the end of the tenth century, and from that time two
Norse colonies, called respectively the eastern and the western
settlements, prospered for about three hundred years. The
ruins of these two settlements have been studied with more or
less care by the Danish government. In the eastern settlement
a hundred and fifty farms, with all their outbuildings, have
been surveyed and measured. A few dwelling-houses have been
thoroughly dug out and examined.*
* Beskrivelse af Ruiner i Julianehaabs Distrikt i Aaret 1880, af G. F. Holm. Meddel-
elser om Groénland, udgivne af Commissionen for Ledelsen af de geologiske og geo-
graphiske Underségelser i Grénland. Copenhagen, 1883, vol. vi.
Undersogelse af Gronlands Vestkyst fra 64° til 67° N. B. af J. A. D. Jensen, 1884 og
1885. Meddelelser om Gronland. Copenhagen, 1889, vol. viii.
Arkeologiske Undersogelser i Julianehaabs Distrikt af Daniel Brunn, 1895. Meddel-
elser om Gronland. Copenhagen, 1896, vol. xvi.
ICELAND, GREENLAND, AND VINELAND 79
As in Iceland, these farmsteads were situated on the shores of
rivers and fjords. Although in the main they resemble those of
Iceland, one is impressed at once with certain striking differ-
ences. Even the undisturbed ruins suggest narrower, straighter,
and stronger walls.
WALLS OF A NORSE RUIN IN GREENLAND
Meddelelser om Groénland, vol. xvi. Daniel Brunn
+
Udgravet pet
REO! + cs ¥
o ee Ri eee melon Minly Po
PLAN OF A NORSE RUIN IN GREENLAND
Meddelelser om Grénland, vol. xvi. Daniel Brunn
The dwellings were usually long and narrow, consisting of
from three to eight rooms, and were surrounded by numerous
outhouses and stables for cattle, sheep, and goats. Close to the
houses are found enormous midden heaps, often larger than the
80 DWELLINGS OF THE SAGA-TIME IN
ruins of the houses themselves. The walls were narrower than
the Icelandic walls, and, although they were built of layers of
turf and stone or sometimes of turf on a foundation of stone, the
middle space, filled in with earth, had almost disappeared, as
may be seen in the sketch. The long platforms of stone along
the walls, the pavements, thresholds, and scattered fireplaces
recall similar constructions in Iceland.
In 1261 Greenland became subject to the Crown of Norway,
and to this influence the Danes attribute certain differences be-
el
Paes
r
184 Bios vada 3s
- ¥ overgroet ===,”
=a
Fpccretiesnene, FES a
SUPPOSED SITE OF THE HOUSE OF ERIK THE RED IN GREENLAND
Meddelelser om Groénland, vol. xvi. Daniel Brunn
tween the customs of the Norsemen in Iceland and in Greenland,
which I need not describe here.* Perhaps the difference in archi-
tecture is due to the same cause. The ruin of the house found
on the supposed site of Brattahlid, the abode of Hrik the Red,
looks as if it might have been remodeled several times since that
fearless Norseman first settled in the land.
* Meddelelser om Gronland, vol. xvi, p. 490.
ICELAND, GREENLAND, AND VINELAND 81
Numerous relics have been found in these ruins—iron nails
and knives, pieces of stone vessels, spinning stones, bone combs,
and stone pendants bored with holes and incised with rune-like
but illegible characters. These, like all the ruins in Greenland
which have been thoroughly dug out, are attributed by the Danes
to a period later than the Saga time.
VINELAND
The ruins, found where one had every reason to hope to find
traces of the houses built in Vineland by Leif Erikson and his
followers, did not differ in their essential features from those of
Iceland in the Saga-time. The situations were similar. The
walls were laid in the same way and were of the same thickness,
and the fireplaces were constructed as they were in the habit of
constructing them at home.
10 Meters
SUPPOSED NORSE RUIN IN MASSACHUSETTS
The walls of this house can be little more than suggested.
They were probably built almost entirely of turf, and they looked
as if they might have been intentionally destroyed. I show it
for its fireplace. Three or four fireplaces were on the site, one
of them being the familiar Indian clam-bake, with its neatly
paved, saucer-shaped hearth piled with ashes and unopened clam
shells, for this temptingly prepared feast had never been eaten.
One of these fireplaces, however, was very different from the
others, and of the Icelandic type, with its surrounding upright
stones at the four corners and a mass of charcoal and stones in-
side. This house is one of those on the place pointed out in
Cambridge by my father, Eben Norton Horsford, as the site of
82 DWELLINGS OF THE SAGA-TIME IN
the group of houses built by the party of Thorfinn Karlsefni in
Vineland.
The second house I show for the constraction of the walls and
the little pavement, presumably at the door, which resembles that
in the templeat Thyrlishown before. The outer side of the wall
contained only one layer of stones, the inner, according to cus-
tom, containing more and larger stones, some of which had fallen
in. The oblong platform of small stones occupied the place of
yy; Meters
SUPPOSED NORSE RUIN IN MASSACHUSETTS
and resembled a fireplace, but showed no trace of such use, un-
less in the dark sticky earth between and under the stones, which
I have since been told may have been ashes absorbed in the soil. ©
This house, with the other ruins near it, are about ten or more
miles from the settlement at Cambridge, and so far from the river
that it must be attributed to later visitors from the North than
those told about in the Vineland Sagas.
No relics have been found at either of these sites which I attri-
bute to the Northmen. I have, however, one stone implement,
ICELAND, GREENLAND, AND VINELAND 83
which was found imbedded in the yellow sand and seemed to
have been lost before the advent of the Northmen, and presuma-
bly belonged to the savages they found here.
Probably the reader will contrast these different dwellings of
the Northmen with those of the native tribes of North America,
from the magnificent ruins of Copan to the long, narrow houses
of the Iroquois, and will detect the similarities and differences
between these and the habitations of the Greenland Eskimos.
The Spanish, Dutch, French, and English explorers visited
and might have built houses on these shores, but in Europe no
houses of this type are found outside of Iceland, except in the
Faroes, and, although ruins of Norse dwellings are probably
awaiting detection in England, Scotland, Orkney, and Shetland,
they have not yet been brought to the notice of archeologists.*
The earliest examples of architecture on our shores, as well as
the present knowledge of the evolution of European architecture,
as far as I have been able to find out, show that the walls of the
inferior houses in post-Columbian times were unlike those of
Iceland. Our oldest French house is the Sillery manor house
near Quebec, built by the Jesuits in 1637. The walls of this
house are built of stone, and are three feet thick, laid in mortar
which is now nearly as hard as the stone itself. I have been
unable to find anything more primitive of French workmanship
here. I have found nothing in English work which is not famil-
iar to you all, although I have followed up several mistaken re-
ports. The Dutch buildings show an equally advanced though
different type of development, and also the Spanish.
I am glad to have an opportunity to express publicly my sin-
cere thanks and deep indebtedness to the American archeologists,
both here and in Canada, who have come most kindly to my
assistance and taught me in the field the knowledge they had
acquired by their own experience, without which I could not
have learned how to gather many facts, a few of which I have
here presented.
Mr Gerarp Fowke: Seven weeks of field work in and near Cambridge.
Two weeks of field work in Ohio, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, and Mary-
land, 1894, Five weeks in Cambridge, 1896.
Dr Franz Boas: Two days in and near Cambridge, 1894.
Mr Davin Boyt, Curator of the Canadian Institute at Toronto: One week
inand near Cambridge. One week in Ontario, Canada, 1894. One week
in Cambridge, 1896.
* Since writing this I have been notified that ancient Norse ruins have been found in
the Hebrides.
84 COMPLETION OF THE LA BOCA DOCK
Mr F. W. Norris, Hon. Editor of the Viking Club, London: One week in
Cornwall, 1895. Three weeks in Scotland, Orkney, and Shetland, 1896.
Two weeks in England, 1897.
Dr pain. Vattyr GupmMunNpsson, Professor of Old Norse History and Liter-
ature at the University of Copenhagen: Direction of explorations in Iceland
for four months, 1895. Five weeks in and near Cambridge, 1896.
Mr TrHorstetnn Erurnesson, Iceland: Four months in Iceland, 1895.
Rey. Henry Orts THaysr, Maine Historical Society: Two weeks among
old English ruins in Maine, 1896.
Str JAmMres Lemorne, Past President of the Royal Society of Canada: Di-
rection of researches near Quebec, 1896.
MrC. C. Witiovuausy, Peabody Museum, Cambridge: Two days on Cape
Cod, 1897.
Mr W J McGee: Advice, criticism, and encouragement, both in Wash-
ington and Cambridge for over four years.
COMPLETION OF THE LA BOCA DOCK
In a recent report to the Department of State, Consular Clerk
Murphy of Colon announces the completion of the La Boca dock,
the Pacific terminus of the Panama canal. The real importance
of the work at La Boca, says Mr Murphy, remains to be demon-
strated. The tide fluctuation at Panama amounts to over 25
feet, and at the lowest ebb the bottom of the sea is exposed for
a mile or more from the shore. As to whether or not vessels will
venture to use the La Boca dock, time alone will prove. Mr
Murphy says he has heard the opinion expressed that the dock
will prove to bea complete success. On the other hand, he has
heard it even more confidently stated that this is only another
example of the waste which has characterized the management
of this apparently simple undertaking. To one traveling across
the isthmus, he says, it appears that there can be no obstacle to
the completion of the canal which money, honestly used, engi-
neering skill, and common sense cannot easily overcome. The
land is mostly level, the highest point being little over 300 feet
above thesea. The distance is only about 45 miles. The freshets
of the river Chagres seem to be the only difficulty, and it ap-
pears that provision for the storage or escape of such water can
be made. The work, if it were in American hands and under
American control, could, Mr Murphy believes, be completed in
a few years at moderate cost. About one-half of the work—14
miles at the north end and 6 miles at the sonth—has been com-
pleted or partially completed, though the freshets of the Chagres
river have caused great damage during years of neglect.
TWO HUNDRED MILES UP THE KUSKOKWIM
By CHARLES HaLiock
Many mighty rivers besides the Yukon flow out of Alaska into
Bering sea, of which the largest and most notable is the Kusko-
kwim. Itis 800 miles long. From its source in the geographical
center of the province, it flows with many a majestic sweep and
sinuous curve out from granite walls, through rounded foothills
and level plains, into the bosom of the sea some two degrees north
of the Aleutian peninsula, and with the great bay of the same
name, into which it empties, constitutes the phenomenal counter-
part on the Pacific of the bay of Fundy and the river Peticodiac
on the Atlantic, though the Kuskokwim is beyond comparison
the larger river of the two. Itis so wide at its mouth that its
shores are invisible from mid-channel, and it is navigable for
barges for a distance of 500 miles up. The tide rises fifty jeet,
and when it runs out it exposes a vast area of oozy mud flats
[
KUSKOKWIM RIVER FROM KOLMAKOVSKY
85
86 TWO HUNDRED MILES UP THE KUSKOK WIM
(sixty miles wide at the entrance of the river), which are seamed
with countless shallow, dirty rivulets flowing seaward. Very
different is its physical aspect when it is bank-full at flood. ‘ It
shimmers then like an inland ocean studded with myriads of
mossy islands.”” The head of the tide is 100 miles upstream, at
a trading post called Mumtrekhlagamute. Boats ascending the
river must wait for the tide, whose flow is irresistible even by
steam-power, for it rises vertically over eight feet an hour, filling
up the vast chasm which forms its bed in the brief space of six
hours, though thereis an entire absence of anything like a tidal
“Dore”? rolling in and overwhelming everything in its impet-
uous career. This phenomenal procedure is an old fable which
used to be current regarding the bay of Fundy, until people
learned differently, and graphic recitals were told of pigs which
had been foraging on the flats, scampering before the advancing
wave and being presently overtaken and engulfed.
On the Kuskokwim there are no less than sixteen trading posts
and villages within the first 400 miles of its mouth. Messrs
Hartmann and Weinland, Moravian missionaries from Bethle-
hem, Pennsylvania, who are men of marked ability, located a
school and mission at Kolmakovsky, 200 miles up, as long ago as
1885; and the description of the river which here follows, with
the accompanying illustrations, is from observations made by
them on their initial trip. They afford a very realistic picture
of summer life in the interior of Alaska and will serve to coun-
teract the popular impression that the country is wholly frigid
and barren.
When these gentlemen first arrived at the mouth of the river,
in June, the salmon fishing was at its height, varying little, if
any, from the running season on the St Lawrence tributaries.
The eastern bank of the estuary was swarming with native fish-
ermen (Eskimos), whose huts were strung along the top of a
narrow dike at high-water mark in close continuity for miles,
crowding each other so closely that there was hardly room for
more. This dike was fringed with alders, willow, birch, and pop-
lar saplings interspersed, flanked by a vigorous growth of coarse
sedges and bulrushes. Back of the dike (or levee, as it would
be called in the southern states) the country is a flat waste, cov-
ered with a spongy bed of moss or “tundra” from six inches to
a foot deep and destitute even of shrubs. Great deposits of drift-
wood from above line the shore and afford fuel for the resident
inhabitants, who number several thousands, but whose ranks are
TWO HUNDRED MILES UP THE KUSKOK WIM 87
FRAMES FOR DRYING FISH
swelled in the fishing season by accessions from the Yukon to
a total of perhaps seven or eight thousand. There is a portage
of sixty miles from the Yukon to the Kuskokwim, which has
been traveled for a century by employés of the Russian Fur
Company and others since. The salmon are taken chiefly in dip-
nets along the banks, and our travelers measured a specimen
which weighed 41 pounds and measured three feet in girth and
nearly four feet in length.
Though the Yukon is the great arterial drainage conduit for
the summer meltings from the snow-capped mountain ranges
which traverse the interior and are consequently filled with
glacial mud, big salmon are found in it, and in some of its clear-
water tributaries there is an abundance of large grayling and so-
called salmon trout.
Leaving the steamer (in which they had taken passage from
San Francisco) at the mouth of the river landing stores, the mis-
sionaries proceeded up the stream in company with four freight-
ing barges destined for upper posts. Their own private convey-
ances were native bidarkas, or sealskin canoes decked over, each
with three manholes, the passenger occupying the central hole
and the paddlers the end ones. A three hours’ sail brought them
88 TWO HUNDRED MILES UP THE KUSKOK WIM
to one of the storehouses above mentioned, located near the out-
let of a small, deep river, it being 11 o’clock at night and still
daylight. The weather was clear, but head winds detained them.
for the next five days. Starting on June 18,.at 2 a. m., just be-
fore sunrise, they made an eight-mile pull to a village of about
ten barabarahs or native houses, named Kuskokwagamute (it is
well to remember these names), and, lying by until 1 o’clock,
attempted to snooze, but were distressed by ravenous mosquitoes.
Then a two-hours’ paddle found them, at 3 o'clock, at the village
of Apokachamute, numbering about 150 inhabitants, located on
a small tributary of the Kuskokwim,where large numbers of beau-
tiful salmon were lying on the bank waiting to be dressed. All
the people were dressed in sealskin coats and wore beads and
ivory ornaments. lying by twelve hours, starting again at 3
o'clock in the morning—always waiting for the tide to serve—
they arrived at Togiarhazorimute at 8, and after breakfast made
a 60-mile run to Lomavigamute (mute means village). Traveling
was delightful. A fine breeze kept the mosquitoes off. Point
after point was reached and left behind. The skin boats seemed
to glide through the water. *‘As we went on, the river grew nar-
rower, so that the opposite bank became distinctly visible. The
BIDARKAS (SKIN CANOES) ON THE LOWER KUSKOKWIM
‘~ a
TWO HUNDRED MILES UP THE KUSKOK WIM 89
MUMTREKHLAGAMUTE
river, which hitherto had been an unbroken stream, was now di-
vided by numerous islands into many channels. The shores
were lined with a higher growth of underwood, and thickets of
small birch trees alternated with grassy or mossy banks. The
tide was also sluggish.”
The next day, sailing still among enchanting wooded islands,
they came to Napahaiagamute, where a lot of Eskimos were in
their kayaks or sealskin boats with a single hole—fishing for
salmon with gill nets. Soon they passed Napahaiagamute and,
rounding an island, came in view of the important trading sta-
tion of Mumtrekhlagamute, situated on a high bank, with a back-
ground of pine trees and a hill range in the distance. The tide
here rises about 4 feet. The station comprises two large, well-
built log-houses and several smaller ones, and a Russian bath-
house or kashima, besides the usual annex of native barabarahs.
Here the boatmen struck for higher wages, as they always do,
but were finally conciliated by the factor of the trading post.
The dogs here were numerous, and howled so as to disturb the
missionary when he was reading the 116th Psalm by daylight at
1 o’clock a.m. The cause proved to be a wrestling match be-
tween two rivals for the permanent possession of awoman. The
( #
90 TWO HUNDRED MILES UP THE KUSKOK WIM
.
following day they proceeded up a winding channel whose banks
were clad with pine trees forty feet high, and finally reached
Kikkhlagamute, where they counted fifty birch-bark canoes,
which here begin to replace skin ones. The village contained
216 people and was situated in a low, marshy ground, with an
abundance of mosquitoes. On the 27th of June they stopped at
a small Eskimo fishing station, where they met a white mining
prospector coming down. The villages of Akiagamute, Iulukiak,
and Kivigalogamute were afterward successively passed, and the
following day found them at the fishing station of an enterpris-
ing half-breed, when rain began falling, the first of any conse-
quence since they left Unalaska on the 16th of May. Still
proceeding up river, more villages—Ugavik, Kalkhagamute,
Ookhogamute—were passed, all under the influence and civili-
zation of the Greek church, and at last, after a journey of 9 days,
the great focal trade center of this district, Kolmakovsky, was
reached. Ranges of snow-covered mountains were visible the day
previous, with foothills clad with pine, up whose somber glens
favorable glimpses were had at times. Kolmakovsky consists of
7 log buildings, built in the form of a square, including a church
and a hexagonal block-house built 50 years ago. It stands on
’
SAS
—
:
2
KOLMAKOYSKY
%
TWO HUNDRED MILES UP THE KUSKOKWIM 91
a bluff. The country seems much more populous than Alaska
had been credited with being. All the white traders whom the
missionaries met had adopted native women as partners, who
were very decorous in manner and behavior. Their children are
of prepossessing appearance, dressed in European fashion, and
trained in the ways of their white fathers. There are some 50
children at Napaimute, a village 10 miles higher up the stream.
These people know nothing about intoxicating liquors.
Kolmakovsky is 200 miles above the mouth of the Kuskokwim.
There is another trading post, called Venizali, twenty days’ jour-
ney still farther up. The missionaries retraced their voyage from
this point, reaching the mouth of the Kuskokwim on July 17,in
nine days’ time, while the journey upstream occupied twenty-
one. The weather for the previous fortnight had been fickle—
sometimes bright and often rainy, warm and cold by turns, and
frequently too hot for comfort. Thence they cruised along the
seacoast, following its indentations to Good News bay, a large
and beautiful basin surrounded by lofty mountains, and, pass-
ing safely through its narrow entrance on the surf of an in-
coming tide, came to anchor at the head of the bay in front of a
_ village of 150 people of mixed complexion, and some of them
almost white. By taking a canoe route from there across the
neck of a mountainous headland or cape, it was possible to reach
their place of destination at Togiak bay, and thus avoid a peril-
ous coastwise journey outside, and so poling up a winding moun-
tain stream, beautifully clear and very rapid, which finally cut
a deep crooked rut through a mossy swamp, with high grass
lining the banks, they came to a portage, and, crossing the divide,
entered a chain of lakes which formed the headwaters of the
_ stream which they had to descend. The lakes, of which there
are four, are small, the largest scarcely a mile in length, with
water beautifully clear and sweet, and full of “ red salmon,” some
of which their native guides speared. This fish is probably
Salvelinus malma, or Dolly Varden. One characteristic of these
fish was “‘a big swelling on the back close to the neck.” (Can
these be the same as the redfish of Idaho described by Captain
Bendire?) ‘Their flavor was not highly esteemed. The outlet
of this chain of lakes which the canoe followed was at first so
narrow and crooked as to be scarcely passable, but 1t soon de-
veloped into ‘a winding mountain torrent, alive with trout, some
of which we saw shooting through the water with incredible
velocity.” The paddlers had little to do except to let her run
92 TWO HUNDRED MILES UP THE KUSKOK WIM
and keep her off the banks at the bends. The scenery was very
beautiful, the view bounded on either side by well-shaped moun-
tains, green with sphagnum, rising from the plain below, with
snow still resting on them in patches. The region was ‘‘ one vast
solitude, over which bears and birds hold undivided sway.” On
July 26 the voyagers took dinner at the deserted village of
Aziavigamute, and then made their way in a short time to Togiak
bay, having occupied three days in crossing the divide. “ Brother
Weinland shot some ducks and four geese, and the natives speared
~ a large salmon.”
ESKIMO MONUMENTS
Subsequently the missionaries made a trip up the Togiak river,
which occupied two days, and after visiting several villages with
polysyllabic names they returned to the coast, where they found
a hamper from their friends of the Alaska Commercial Company
(bless them!) which “ contained thirty good cigars it seems the
brethren smoke), four large cakes of tobacco, two tins of boiled
oysters, two of corned beef, one of fresh boiled beef, three tins of
sardines, one of peaches, one of corn, and one of peas.”
So the record runs.
THE MT ST ELIAS EXPEDITION OF PRINCE LUIGI
AMADEO OF SAVOY, 1807
A lecture of Dr Filippo de Filippi, who accompanied Prince
Luigi of Savoy on his expedition to Mt St Elias, was delivered
before the Turin Alpine Club and has been published in the
Rivista Mensile del Club Alpino Italiano, the first authentic ac-
count given of that remarkably successful ascent of one of the
greatest snow peaks of the world. A translation of this article
appears in the latest Sierra Club Bulletin, January, 1898, by Dr
Paolo de Vecchi, of San Francisco, member of the Sierra Club
and the Turin Alpine Club, who assisted Prince Luigi by making
the advance preparations on the Pacific coast.
Dr Filippo de Filippi tells how Prince Luigi determined upon
the expedition in February, 1897, and at once began corre-
spondence with those in the United States who could best in-
form and advise him. He associated with hint Lieutenant Cagui,
Sr Gonella, Sr Vittorio Sella, the Alpine photographer, and Dr
Filippo. Four guides or huntsmen from the royal Italian estates
and the special guide of Sr Sella accompanied them, leaving Turin
May 17 and reaching New York from Liverpool May 28. They
proceeded to San Francisco, where part of the equipment was
procured, and sailed from Seattle on the regular mail steamer
for Alaska June 13, Major E. 8. Ingraham, of Seattle, with ten
American packers, their equipment and provisions, having sailed
a few days before on the schooner Aggie. The expedition left
Sitka June 20, the mail steamer towing the Aggie, for Yakutat
bay, where a landing was made on the coast of the Malaspina
glacier June 28.
Prince Luigi was thoroughly informed of all the work of the
expeditions of Schwatka and Topham and of the two expeditions
sent to Mt St Elias by the National Geographic Society, Prof.
I. C. Russell commanding, and before leaving Italy had planned
every detail and mapped out his route. Professor Russell, Pro-
fessor George Davidson, the senior scientist of the Pacific coast,
Professor Fay, of the Appalachian Club, Boston, and Major
Ingraham, of Seattle, who has climbed Mt Rainier again and
again, gave advice and assistance without stint. It was the most
thoroughly planned and well managed expedition that we have
93.
94 THE MT ST ELIAS EXPEDITION OF
known of on American peaks, and was carried out like a mili-
tary maneuver. Perfect discipline and harmony prevailed, the
ten Italians leading the way, while Major Ingraham and his ten
packers conducted a transport service that never failed in
promptly passing on, by the chain of camps extending to the
foot of the Newton glacier, the ample store of provisions landed
at the seashore. There was not the slightest delay nor hitch in
any of the arrangements, and from the time Prince Luigi left
Turin until he returned to London everything moved like mil-
itary maneuvers at an annual review. It was indeed but a
promenade to the top of Mt St Hlias and back again—a prom-
enade over the ice and snow that had daunted and defeated
four expeditions before that year and a fifth expedition but a
fortnight before Prince Luigi landed on the forest-covered edge
of the Malaspina glacier.
Starting from the seacoast on the morning of June 24 and
always preceding the party to choose the way and determine the
places for halts and camps, Prince Luigi led his men across
Malaspina’s forest, and on the sixth day reached the edge of
clear ice, where the four extra Indian packers were sent back to
Yakutat and the sleds made ready for use. They were then 492
feet above the sea, the real climb began, and for all the rest of
the way their route lay over snow and ice—Mt St Ehas pre-
senting the longest snow climb anywhere in the world.
Beginning their alpine work on the 1st of July, allowing one
day’s rest on the Fourth that the Americans might celebrate
Independence Day, Prince Luigi piloted them across the Malas-
pina and Seward glaciers to the point near Pinnacle pass where
he found the cairn and tent fragments left by Prof. Russell in
1890. At that point Major Ingraham and the American pack-
ers were left behind to carry on independently the work of pass-
ing provisions up from the coast and victualling the route as far
as the upper Newton glacier, where the Italian guides then took
charge of the packs. The Prince proceeded across the Seward
and on up the Agassiz and Newton glaciers toward that same
ridge on the north side of St Elias from which Prof. Russell es-
sayed the summit in 1891. They encountered rain, fog, mist,
and snow for all the early part of the climb, dragging the sleds
over slush and soft snow in which they often sank to their hips.
Of the thirteen days spent in toilsomely ascending the Newton
glacier only three were tolerably clear, and Dr Filippo says:
“During these the panorama was really enchanting, with its
PRINCE LUIGI AMADEO OF SAVOY, 1897 95
different colors changing at every instant, and with a character-
istic indigo blue very different from the coloring of the Italian
alps. These glaciers differ from those of the Alps in that the
stormy weather in Alaska is not dangerous and the thunder is not
heard mingled with the noises of the avalanches.”
On the morning of July 30 Prince Luigileft the camp atthe head
of the Newton glacier, 8,958 feet above the sea, and camped that
night on a ridge 12,248 feet above the sea. ‘“ The atmosphere
is so clear that the far-away sea and all the peaks around * * *
can be seen. From St Elias and from the rocks of Newton con-
tinual avalanches of snow and ice and stone fall with a tremen-
dous noise. The sun-setting is beautiful. The sky is steel blue,
the rest of the horizon orange-red, and Augusta (Mt) looks hke
a volcano in eruption,” Dr Filippo observes, from which it may
be inferred what photographs Prof. Sella was able to make with
his two large cameras. Starting at midnight with perfectly clear
sky and climbing to a point 16,400 feet, they halted for break-
fast, and then continued the dizzying, exhausting climb, resting
every ten minutes to breathe.
“One hundred and sixty feet from the top, Petigax, who is at
the head, stops to give way to the Prince, telling him, ‘ It is for
you to touch the top first, as you deserve it by your persever-
ance.’ His Highness steps to the top of St Elias, and all the
others run, anxious and exhausted, to join him in the hurrah.
The victory is complete, and it is all Italian. All ten have
accomplished the purpose for which they left their own coun-
try. * * * Itwas-11.45 of the 3lst of July, ‘and the Italian
flag was waving, hanging to a post, while the little crowd stood
cheering Italy and the King.’
“ The temperature is —12° centigrade. The mercurial barom-
eter points to 385 mm. and, with the correction, shows an alti-
tude of 18,086 feet above the sea level, closely approximate to
that of 18,080 feet, calculated in 1891 by Russell with triangu-
lation.”
The descent was as perfect a military maneuver as the ascent,
the party making three of the previous camps in each day; the
food supplies were all in waiting at the chain of camps, and in
ten days they had retraced the route it had taken them thirty
days to ascend. The Prince had ordered the Aggie to meet
them between the 10th and 11th of August. On the evening of
the 10th they camped on the shore, embarked on the 11th, sailed
on the 12th, reached Sitka the 17th of August, fifty-seven days
96 THE ORIGIN OF FRENCH-CANADIANS
after leaving it. Sailing from New York by the Lucania Sep-
tember 4, the party broke up in London September 11, the Prince
in good time to take part in some yacht races for which he had
promised to reach England by the middle of September—the most
modest and unassuming as the most intrepid and successful of all
the explorers who have essayed Mt St Elias. JOB ade Sh
THE ORIGIN OF FRENCH-CANADIANS*
Acadia was peopled without any kind of organization between
1636 and 1670. No one has yet satisfactorily demonstrated
where the French of that colony came from, though their dia-
lect would indicate their place of origin to be near the mouth of
the river Loire. They were distinct from the French-Canadians
in some particulars, and not allied by marriage with the settlers
of the St Lawrence. It isascertained from Champlain’s writings
that no “habitant” tilled the soil of Canada during the first
quarter of the seventeenth century.
From an examination of family and other archives, involving
over thirty years’ labor, the following conclusions are arrived
at: Perche, Normandy, Beauce, Picardy, and Anjou contributed
about 200 families from 1653 to 1663, the period of the Hundred
Partners’ regime. By natural growth these reached the figure
of 2,200 souls in 1663. In 1662-1663 there came about 100 men
from Perche and 150 from Poitou, Rochelle, and Gascony, with
a small number of women. ‘This opens a new phase in the his-
tory of our immigration by introducing Poitou and Rochelle
among the people of the northern and western provinces of
France, already counting two generations in the three districts
of Quebec, Three Rivers, and Montreal.
After 1665 the city of Paris, or rather the small territory en-
circling it, contributed a good share. No part of the south or
east of France had any connection with Canada at any time.
Normandy, Perche, Maine, Anjou, Touraine, Poitou, Saint Onge,
Angoumois, Guienne, and Gascony—on a straight line from
north to south—furnished the whole of the families now com-
posing the French-Canadian people.
From 1667 to 1672 a committee was active in Paris, Rouen,
Rochelle, and Quebec to recruit men, women, and young girls for
*Abstract of paper, by B. Sulte, read before the Anthropological Section of the British
Association for the Advancement of Science, at the Toronto meeting.
THE HEIGHT OF MT RAINIER 97
Canada. This committee succeeded in effecting the immigration
into Canada of about 4,000 souls. Half of the girls were from
country places in Normandy, and the other half were well edu-
cated persons who did not go into the rural districts, but mar-
ried in Quebec, Three Rivers, and Montreal.
In 1675 the King stopped all immigration, and this was the
end of French attempts to colonize Canada. The settlers, of
course, remained as they were, and in 1680 the whole popula-
tion amounted only to 9,700 souls. Double the number every
thirty years and we have the present French population of the
Provinces of Quebec and Ontario, and of the groups established
now in the United States.
On the subject of uniformity of language, which is so remark-
able among the French-Canadians, we may observe that it is the
best language spoken from Rochelle to Paris and Tours, and from
there to Rouen. Writers of the seventeenth century have ex-
pressed the opinion that French-Canadians could understand a
dramatic play as well as the élite of Paris. No wonder to us,
since we know that theatricals were common occurrences in
Canada, and that the ‘‘ Cid of Corneille” was played in Quebec
in 1645; the “ Tartuffe of Moliére” in 1677, andsoon. The taste
for music and love for song are characteristics of the French-
Canadian race. The facility with which they learn foreign lan-
guages is well known in America, where they speak Indian,
Spanish, and English as well as their own tongue.
THE HEIGHT OF MT RAINIER
By RicHarp U. Goopr,
United States Geological Survey
Four separate determinations of the height of Mt Rainier,
Washington, have been made, and, while no single one of them
independently would be considered conclusive, the close corre-
spondence between the results warrants an acceptance of the
mean as being very close to the true altitude. Two of these de-
terminations were by cistern barometer and two by angulation.
During the summer of 1897 Professor Edgar McClure carried
a cistern barometer to the summit of Rainier, at the time the
Mazamas had their annual outing, and obtained one set of ob-
servations, including readings of attached and detached ther-
98 GEOGRAPHIC WORK BY THE
mometers.* The barometer had been especially prepared and
was supposed to be in the very best condition. These observa-
tions were carefully computed by Professor E. H. McAllister, of
the University of Oregon, in connection with synchronous baro-
metric readings at Seattle, Portland, Fort Canby, and Walla
Walla, these points occupying positions approximately north,
south, west, and east of Rainier. The result was 14,528 feet
above sea-level. Major EH. S. Ingraham, of Seattle, had previ-
ously determined and published the altitude of Rainier, as a re-
sult of readings of mercurial barometers, as 14,524 feet.
In 1895 Mr 8.8. Gannett, of the U. S. Geological Survey, de-
termined the height by angulation, in connection with triangu-
lation in the Cascades, to be 14,532 feet.t In 1896 Mr G. E.
Hyde, also of the U. 8. Geological Survey, while making a topo-
graphic map of the country to the northeast of Rainier, secured
about forty angles of elevation to the highest point of the moun-
tain from various points, the distances averaging about 25 miles,
the mean of all these results being 14,519 feet.
RECAPITULATION : ao
Barometric determination, McClure and McAllister............. 14,528
Barometric determination, Ingraham. ................... scentn) L424
Angulation determination, U. S. Geological Survey, Gannett..... 14,532
Angulation determination, U. S. Geological Survey, Hyde.... ... 14,519
Mieamieaevensaitsae wocnaereatne 14,526
In addition to the above, the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey
determined the height of Rainier by angulation to be 14,440, but
the distances used were so great that the result was considered
merely approximate.
GEOGRAPHIC WORK BY THE BUREAU OF AMERICAN
EDHN@OLO Gye:
The germ of the Bureau of American Ethnology was an ex-
ploration of the canyons of Colorado river, begun in 1867 by
Major J. W. Powell. At first an amateur exploration, the work
was gradually refined into a survey fostered and afterward sup-
*In descending the mountain Professor McClure lost his life by falling over a prec-
ipice on July 27.
+ Nav. Geog. Maa., vol. vii, p. 150, April, 1896.
+ Extract from one of the replies (signed by W J McGee, Ethnologist in Charge, Bu-
reau of American Ethnology) to letters of inquiry for information to be incorporated in
a paper on geographic research in the United States for presentation before the British
Association for the Advancement of Science at the Toronto meeting.
BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY 99
ported by the Smithsonian Institution and the Federal Govern-
ment. The bureau thus built up was known as the “ U.S. Geo-
graphical and Geological Survey of the Rocky Mountain Region”
until 1879, when the work was divided, a moiety being trans-
ferred to the newly instituted U. 8. Geological Survey, the other
moiety (including the ethnologic researches, which constituted
an important part of the work of the Rocky Mountain survey)
being continued in the ethnologic bureau at the cost of the Goy-
ernment and under the supervision of the Smithsonian Institu-
tion; so the geographic work of the Bureau may be considered
to have begun with the exploration and survey of Colorado can-
yon and the neighboring country through the boldest and most
perilous among the scientific expeditions recorded in the annals
of the nation. Subsequently it was found inexpedient to make
extended geographic surveys, and the work was generally car-
ried forward by means of the surveys and maps of other instru-
mentalities, notably the U. 8. Geological Survey. Yet from
time to time special explorations and surveys have been made,
the latest (and the most extended during recent years) being
that of western Sonora (Mexico) and contiguous parts of Ari-
zona, by W J McGee, with W. D. Johnson as topographer,
who traversed a considerable territory of which portions were
never before trodden by white men. Although the surveys
have thus been limited, the researches, viewed broadly and
in clear light, are largely geographic. It is a primary func-
tion of the Bureau to trace the geographic distribution of tribes
and larger groups of aborigines; and this has been done
throughout the territory of the United States, and, to some
extent, in contiguous countries, and the resulting ethno-geo-
eraphic maps are recognized as standards throughout the world.
At the same time, effort has constantly been made to trace the
migrations of the native tribes, as observed by the pioneers and
as indicated by the surprisingly rich legends and traditions of
the tribesmen, and also as recorded in the distribution of pre-
historic relics; and thus it has been found feasible to prepare
ethno-geographic maps of various portions of the continent repre-
senting different periods in the development of the primitive race,
and a number of maps showing the migrations and less regular
wanderings of the native tribes have been published. Through
observations on the tribes and studies of their wanderings it has
been found that primitive peoples are, in large measure, creat-
100 A RELIC OF THE LEWIS AND CLARKE EXPEDITION
ures of environment, and thus reflect the geographic conditions
by which they are surrounded; and the researches concerning
the relations between man and geographic condition have been
found suggestive and fruitful. The various studies have served
to correct early impressions concerning the aborigines; it has
been shown that the Indians were more or less definitely organ-
ized in tribes and confederacies, belonging to some sixty distinct
stocks or families, each characterized by distinct languages, in-
stitutions, and beliefs, and each occupying a definite though per-
haps slowly shifting habitat. Some of the groups were large,
some small, the greater number being confined to a narrow belt
along the Pacific coast, while a few large groups occupied the
eastern two-thirds of the continent. Study of the movements of
the natives constituting each group indicates that they expanded
or contracted, and shifted or persisted, much as do the definitely
organized nations of civilization, under the influence of both ex-
ternal and internal forces, the former being essentially geographic
and the latter essentially human. It is only when the groups
are defined and when their movements are investigated and
compared that the principles of ethno-geography are brought to
light. These principles are set forth in a score of the publica-
tions of the Bureau.
AREDIC OF VTE LEWISVAND? CLEAR KEE XE Das@N
The print of which the accompanying illustration is a repro-
duction, slightly reduced, was made from an iron believed to
be an original branding-iron used by Captain Meriwether Lewis
on the Lewis and Clarke Expedition of 1804-06. It was found
by Mr Winans, of The Dalles, Oregon, about three years ago,
clasped in the hands of an Indian skeleton, in one of the old
Indian burial places on an island in the Columbia river, near
The Dalles.
Quite a number of Indian burial places are located along the
Columbia, and several were described by Lewis and Clarke. It
was the Indian custom to bury with deceased members of the
tribe any articles especially prized by them. Lewis and Clarke
passed down the Columbia in November, 1805, and wintered at
Fort Clatsop, near Astoria, Oregon, at the mouth of the river.
In the spring of 1806 they started eastward, homeward bound,
A RELIC OF THE LEWIS AND CLARKE EXPEDITION 101
advancing slowly up the Columbia. Their diary makes frequent
mention of the fact that they exchanged trinkets of all descrip-
tions for food and at times wood. Asthey approached the mouth
of Snake or Lewis river, they were delayed several days in the
effort to obtain horses for their overland trip across the conti-
PE a Kee ue
J ewis
Pee SRNR SHS LES a, Sen bee > aterm
nental divide. They found a difficulty in this, owing to their
greatly reduced supplies, and everything not of absolute neces-
sity was used in their barterings.
The above-described relic is now deposited in the land office
at The Dalles. It was seen by the writer during the summer of
1897 in a fairly well preserved but, of course, rusty condition.
It is one solid, welded piece of iron, with the box under the
name formed by araisedrim. A pivoted handle, which was not
found, was evidently used with the brand, as a short, cylindrical
projection on the back of the iron could hardly have been used
for any other purpose. This brand was not used for stock, but
probably for stamping boxes, leather, or notices of locations or
discoveries on near-by trees. It is the intention to deposit this
relic with the Oregon Historical Society.
Cyrus C. Bap.
AN INTERESTING RUMOR CONCERNING ANDREE
The recent publication in the daily newspapers of a dispatch
from Stockholm to the effect that Professor Nordenskjold had
informed the Swedish Academy of Science that he regarded as
of sufficient importance to call for a closer investigation the in-
telligence received by the Swedish Foreign Office that several
persons worthy of credence saw Herr Andrée’s balloon in the
Caribou District of British Columbia in August last led President
Bell, of the National Geographic Society, to immediately ask the
American Minister at Stockholm, by cable, what news of Herr
Andrée the Swedish Foreign Office was really in possession of.
The following day a reply was received referring President Bell
to the Swedish Consul at San Francisco, who, in answer to a
telegram that was forthwith sent him, replied to President Bell,
by telegraph, as follows:
“* Statement of a balloon passing over the Horse-Fly Hydraulic Mining
Camp in Caribou, British Columbia, in latitude fifty-two degrees twenty
minutes and longitude one hundred and twenty-one degrees thirty min-
utes.—From letters of J. B. Hobson, manager Caribou Hydraulic Mining
Company, and of Mrs William Sullivan, the blacksmith’s wife there, and
statement of Mr John J. Newsom, San Francisco, then at-the camp,
about two or three o’clock in afternoon, between fourth and seventh
August last, weather calm and cloudless, Mrs Sullivan, while looking
over the Hydraulic bank, noticed a round, gray-looking object in the sky
to the right of the sun. As she watched, it grew larger and was descend-
ing. She saw the larger mass of the balloon above and the small mass
apparently suspended to the larger. It continued to descend until she
plainly recognized it as a balloon and a large basket hanging thereto. It
finally commenced to swing violently back and forth and move very fast
toward the eastward and southward. She then called her daughter,
eighteen years old, and after pointing the balloon out to her they both
watched it rise rapidly until it disappeared in an easterly direction. Mr
Hobson writes that Mrs Sullivan and daughter are intelligent, and he is
disposed to believe their statement. Mrs Hobson had at about time
stated noticed Mrs Sullivan looking into the sky at something, and that
she called her daughter, who went to her side, looked in the directions
indicated, and both watched some object for several minutes, turning
their faces from southerly to easterly direction. Mr Newsom reports
that something was thrown out from the balloon when lowest, and subse-
quently people thought it might have been some message, but the coun-
try is too wooded to warrant any search. When Mr Newsom returned
102
GEOGRAPHIC NAMES IN WEST GREENLAND 103
to San Francisco he was ill and did not immediately report the matter.
Mrs Sullivan has since examined the picture of Andrée’s balloon and
says it represents the object seen. The president Geographical Society
of the Pacific here instituted inquiries that have resulted as above.’’
The locality described is very near Quesnelle lake. While
_ British Columbia is in the opposite direction to that in which
Herr Andrée’s balloon is believed by Arctic explorers to have
been borne, itis by no means an impossibility that it was carried
in that direction, and the approximate date, August 4-7, at
which a balloon is alleged to have been seen in that region would
be just about the expiration of the time that it is believed Herr
Andrée’s balloon would remain in theair. The physical features
and conditions of British Columbia are such as to render it abso-
lutely impossible to prosecute any search for traces of the al-
leged aerial visitant at this season of the year. Meanwhile the
consensus of opinion is that Andrée, if alive, is much more likely
to be in Franz Josef Land, north Siberia, north or east Green-
land, or Spitzbergen, and his safe return seems to depend largely
on some fortunate accident that would lead to his being picked up
by a whaler.
deere
GEOGRAPHIC NAMES IN WEST GREENLAND
In his article in this magazine (vol. ix, pp. 1-11) Mr Robert
Stein gives 46 new names to capes, bays, mountains, glaciers, ete.,
chiefly in honor of the “ advocates of a National University at
Washington.” Most of these points were merely seen from a
distance and most of them have already been explored and
mapped, and some of them have been visited by at least two
parties, each of which applied as few names as possible. The
plan adopted by Mr Stein is not uncommon in “ geographic ex-
ploration,” though it is difficult to understand the importance
of such work. Doubtless the Danes will feel fully justified in
ignoring the nomenclature, which is burdensome, needless, and
meaningless.
My chief object in this note is to call attention to the fact that
in the promiscuous naming of things, the Wyckoff glacier,* one of
the five names that I applied to this region, is ignored and re-
placed by the name Hearst. My belief is that names of places
6
* Bull. Geol. Soc. America, Vol. viii, 1897, p. 257.
104 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
are valuable only when needed in description, and I have scru-
pulously avoided applying new names excepting where necessary
for this purpose; but when once applied in this way they should
not be put aside without a valid reason. But while I protest
against this, I wish also to protest against geographic work which
consists mainly in scattering names broadcast. Explorers often
do little else than this.
RALPH 8. TARR.
PROMEEDINGS OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
SOCIETY, SESSION 1897-’98
Special Meeting, February 7, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the
chair.. Mr G. K. Gilbert lectured on the Origin of the Physical Features
of the United States.
Regular Meeting, February 11, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the
chair. Mr Richard U. Goode gave an illustrated lecture on the Bitter
Root Forest Reserve. At the conclusion of the lecture Hon. James Gunn,
M. C., of Idaho, gave a description of that state, its topography, products,
agriculture, irrigation, minerals, and mining.
Special Meeting, February 14, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the
chair. Hon. J. Phinney Baxter lectured on New England: ule Home of
the Pilgrims and Puritans.
Special Meeting, February 18, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the
chair. Mr John M. Robertson gave an illustrated lecture on the Influ-
ence of Climate and Land Formation on Early Civilization and Politics.
Special Meeting, February 21, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the-
chair. Professor Richard H. Dodge gave an illustrated lecture entitled
“New York State: its Physical Geography.”’
Regular Meeting, February 25, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the
chair. Mr Henry Gannett gave an illustrated lecture on Lake Chelan.
The fine portrait of Prof. Alexander Graham Bell, LL. D., the distin-
guished president of the National Geographic Society and inventor of the
Bell telephone, which forms the frontispiece to this number, constitutes
a notable addition to the series of portraits of eminent men of science
which have appeared in the NarionaL GroGRAPHIC MAGAZINE during the
past two years.
a
a
NATI ONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RY.
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TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM
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With the Co-operation of Eminent Magneticians
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SOUTHERN RAILWAY
GREATEST SOUTHERN SYSTEM.
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South of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, and in con-
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Washington and Nashville via Salisbury, Asheville, Knoxville and
Chattanooga.
Washington and Tampa via Columbia, Savannah and Jacksonville.
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Washington and New Orleans via Atlanta, Montgomery and Mobile.
Norfolk and Chattanooga via Salisbury, Asheville and Knoxville.
Pullman Sleeping Cars—Dining Cars—Day Coaches.
Additional Trains for local travelers... .. . .
_ The direct line to the (ape GULF COAST and TEXAS,
Winter Resorts of ( . . »« « MEXICO and CALIFORNIA,
——AND THE BEST——
Through Car Line to and from Asheville and Hot Springs—‘‘ The Land of the Sky.’’
Write for Map Folders.
A.S. THWEATT, Eastern Passenger Agent, 271 Broadway, New York, N. Y.
J. C. HORTON, Passenger Agent, 201 B. Baltimore Street, Baltimore, Md.
I. S. BROWN, General Agent, 705 Fifteenth St. N. W., Washington, D. C.
J. H. WINGFIELD, Passenger Agent, Norfolk, Va.
S. H. HARDWICK, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Atlanta, Ga.
C. A. BENSCOTER, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Chattanooga, Tenn.
W. H. TAYLOB#, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Louisville, Ky.
J. M. CULP, Traffic Manager. W. A. TURK, General Passenger Agent.
The Mutual Life Insurance Co.
OF NEW YORK,
RICHARD A. McCURDY, President,
Is the Largest Insurance Company in the World.
The Records of the Insurance Department of the State of New
York SHOW THAT The Mutual Life
_ Has a Larger Premium Income - - - ($39,000,000)
_ More Insurance in Force - - “ - - ($918,000,000)
A Greater Amount of Assets - - - = ($235,000,000)
__A Larger Annual Interest Income - - - ($9,000,000)
Writes More New Business” - - - - ($186,000,000)
_ And Pays More to Policy-holders - - ($25,000,000 in 1896)
Ps THAN ANY OTHER COMPANY.
It has paid to Policy-holders since |
its organization, in 1848, | 5 $437,005,195.29
ROBERT A. GRANNISS, Vice-President.
WALTER R. GILLETTE, General Manager. FREDERIC CROMWELL, Treasurer,
ee ASAAC F, LLOYD, Second Vice-President. EMORY McCLINTOCK, Actuary.
WILLIAM J. EASTON, Secretary.
€
CALIFORNIA..
OF course you expect ‘to go there this ‘spring. | ae
me whisper something i in yee ear. Besure that
one return portion of your ticket reads via fhe as . vi
Wonhen Pacific Shasta Rous , u
Then you will see the grandest mountain scenery in :
‘the United States, including Tit. Hood and rit. Rainier, X
each more than 14,000 feet high, Mt. St. Helens, :
Tt. Adams, and others. Vou will also be privileged
to make side trips into the Kootenai Country, where
such wonderful new gold discoveries have been made,
and to Yellowstone Park, ile wonderland not only oH
the United States, but of the World. Park season
begins June Ist each year. Close railroad connections ay
made in Union Station, Portland, for Puget Sound
AV
cities and the east, via Northern Pacific.
CHAS. S. FEE, we
General Passenger Agent, St. Paul, Minn.
|
4 ay | Me
AN ims LUSTRATED M
Editor: JOHN HYDE
| Neen
. Associate Editors, |
, GREELY (\WJIMcGER ‘HENRY GANNETT
é ae tae RUHAMAH SCIDMORE |
} ¢ j
HE, PAGE
ORT ‘WEST PASSES ro THE YUKON. (
es a ith illustrations) —— is BLIZA) RUHAMAH SCIDMORE. 105
OVERLAND ROUTES TO THE KLOND?KE. md) HAMLIN GARLAND. | 113 a
1 With ae \ i}
URE OF THE YUKON GOLDFIELDS, PROF. WM. H. DALL, 117 vi
WILD FOWL AND GAME ANIMALS OF ALASKA. Ce
th illustrations. Dee EH. W. NELSON. 121 /
CONDITIONS ‘OF ALASKA. GEN. A. Ww. GREELY, U.S. A. 132 ae f
| MIKE LEBARGE. | PROF. WM. H. DALL. 137
\ \ \ eR eR eee}:
\ 7 pn
D.ITS MINERAL RESOURCES. at _ PROP. Ss. F. EMMONS, 139) is
h map and illustrations. DR NAN iS Men ee ny
NT OF ALASKA, ZEN TO an a oa :
HON. GEO. C. PERKINS, U. S.'S. 1720
Ons. wwe ‘PC SSTBILITIE OF AGRICULTURE |
IR H. EVANS, 178
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National Geographic Society
ORGANIZED, JANUARY, 1888
PRESIDENT
ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL
Vick-PRESIDENTS
MARCUS BAKER A. W. GREELY
WILLIAM H. DALL C. HART MERRIAM
G. K. GILBERT Ei HERBERT G. OGDEN
TREASURER
HENRY GANNETT
RECORDING SECRETARY CORRESPONDING SECRETARY
FP. H. NEWELL ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE
MANAGERS :
CHARLES J. BELL EVERETT HAYDEN
H. F. BLOUNT JOHN HYDE
Be VE COWEN IGE 7. W J McGHE .
DAVID T. DAY W. B. POWELL
SECRETARY’S OFFICE
Room 55, Ohio Bank Building, Twelfth and G Sts. N.W., Washington
The National Geographic Society, the object of which is the increase and diffusion
of geographic knowledge, has a paying membership of 1,500. Its membership is not
restricted to practical geographers, but is open to any person in good standing who may
be sufficiently interested in its work to seek admission. The annual subscription is: for
active members, $5.00 per annum ; for corresponding members, $2.00 perannum. Active
members pay also an entrance fee of $2.00 on election. Tar Narronat Grograpaic
MaGaZIne is sent regularly to all members, both active and corresponding.
Donations for the founding of Prize Medals and Scholarships are
respectfully solicited.
National Geographic Magazine
Vou. IX APRIL, 1898 No. 4
EE PNORVEWES IZPASSES TO THE YWKON
By EnizA RuHAMAH ScIDMORE
While Vancouver’s ships Jay at anchor in July, 1794, in his
Port Frederick, the Komtokton of the natives and the Hoonah
post-office of today, at the northwest end of Chichagof island,
Messrs Whidby and Lemesurier, in a small boat, followed the
north shore of Icy straits and penetrated the long Lynn canal,
bringing back reports that ended Vancouver’s hope and search
for a northwest passage through from the Atlantic—De Fuca’s
straits and Del Fonte’s river myths and dreams of “ hypothetical
projectors ” and “ closet navigators,” as this greatest of surveyors
and explorers bitterly termed them.
Whidby’s men rowed up that finest fiord of all that landscape
coast to Point Seduction, so named because of the “ exceedingly
artful character ” of the natives, who met them at that point and
dared them further on up the western arm (Chilkat inlet) to the
* mouth of the river, just beyond the modern Pyramid Harbor.
These artful natives had then enjoyed trade with white men,
and the Chilkats and Chilkoots, really one tribe and closely
related, were not only the greatest warriors and boldest bucca-
neers of the coast, but were great ‘‘ grease-traders ” and middle-
men as well. Two ‘* grease trails ” led away from the two inlets
across the range to the game country beyond, where the milder
plains people, the “ Stick ” or Tinneh tribes of Athabascan stock,
were content to trap and trade at great disadvantage, exchanging
their pelts and horns for the fish oil and sea products of the coast
tribes and the goods which the latter obtained from white traders.
Russian, ‘ Boston,’ and Hudson’s Bay Company traders realized
8
JORTHWEST PASSES TO THE YUKON
N
VEL nl
106
suing “Sq fiq ydpsbojoyg 0 wong
L681 ‘ITdOLOO ‘LINWAS DNIHOVOUddVY SUANOMNA — SSvVd LOOMTIHO
See see
THE NORTHWEST PASSES TO THE YUKON 107
more than one hundred per cent profit on the goods they gave
the Chilkats in exchange for furs, and the Chilkats realized a
still greater profit when they dealt with the Tinnehs.
For the half century that the H. B. Co.’s ships reeularly visited
Chilkat inlet the traders never dealt directly with the Tinnehs.
The Chilkats were relentless monopolists, meeting the Tinnehs
at established camping grounds, at Tagish houses, and other
points beyond the range each year, and packing the furs back
over the Chilkat or the Shaseki (Chilkoot) pass. Occasionally
they brought a Tinneh chief down under escort as a great re-
ward and honor, to allow him to look at the fire-ship of the white
traders. Mr Robert Campbell, of the H. B. Co., who crossed
from the Mackenzie river to the Pelly in 1842-43, wrote: ‘‘ The
rascally Chilkat Indians from the Pacific coast were in the habit
of making trading excursions to Pelly. They ascended by Lynn
canal, thence crossed over the mountains to the head of Lewes
river. Descending this river they came to the Pelly, where
oftentimes, when strong enough, they pillaged and massacred the
Pelly Indians, than whom there could be no more honest men.”
In 1849 the H. B. Co. built Fort Selkirk, at the junction of
the Lewes river and the Pelly, buying furs directly from the
Tinnehs and sending them out by the chain of H. B. Co. forts
connecting with the Mackenzie river and Hudson bay. The
difficulty of getting supplies into Fort Selkirk had induced the
H. B. Co. to consider abandoning it, when the Chilkat chief,
incensed at this interference with his fur trade, led a war party
across the mountains and plundered and burned the fort. The
blockade of the passes was more strictly maintained than ever
against Tinnehs and whites.
The first white man to cross the range, according to local Chil-
kat and common Alaskan tradition, 1s said to have been a red-
headed Scotchman in the employ of the H. B. Co., who, reach-
ing the ruins of Fort Selkirk in 1864, started alone over the old
““orease-trail” to the sea. He hid from Indians all the way, but
was captured near the coast and held until ransomed by Capt.
Swanson, of the H. B. Co.’s Labouchere, on its regular visit to
Pyramid Harbor. Because of his red hair he was regarded as a
shaman and treated with distinction during his stay. Dr Daw-
son discredits this story of the Scotch pioneer, as Fort Selkirk
was in ruins at that time, and he believes the whole story arose
from the fact that certain articles belonging to the traders at Fort
Selkirk were brought to the trading ship on the coast.
198 THE NORTHWEST PASSES TO THE YUKON
Prof. George C. Davidson, who had visited the Chilkat coun-
try in 1867, when making a scientific reconnaissance of Russian
America for Secretary Seward, returned in 1869 to observe the
eclipse of the sun, August 7, establishing his station and obserya-
tory at the upper Chilkat village, where he was the guest of the
ereat chief Chartrich, Kloh-Kutz, or Hole-in-the-Cheek, as that
head of the Cinnamon Bear clan was variously known. Secre-
tary Seward and his party were escorted up the Chilkat river in
Kloh-Kutz’s war canoe on eclipse day, and, joining Prof. David-
son for another day, carried away the astronomer and his in-
struments before there was time for him to make an intended
trip toward the pass. During his stay Prof. Davidson had in-
duced Kloh-Kutz and his wife to draw a very intelligible map
of the route up the river to the Chilkat pass and across to Fort
Selkirk, a route Kloh-Kutz had traversed since childhood, and
which his father had traversed as one of the war party which
burned Tort Selkirk. Lying face downward, the old chief and
his wife discussed and laboriously drew on the back of an old
chart the lines of all the water-courses and lakes, with the pro-
file of the mountains as they appear on either hand from the trail.
The great glacier is indicated by snow-shoe tracks to show the
mode of progress, and the limit of each of the fourteen days’
journey across to Fort Selkirk is marked by cross-lines on this orig-
inal Chilkat map, which is still in the possession of Prof. David-
son, at San Francisco. There is a copy (Topographical Sheet
No. 2268) at the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey office at Wash-
ington, and this Kloh-Kutz map was the basis of the first charts.
George Holt, a miner, claimed to have crossed the eastern, the_
Chilkoot, or Shaseki pass in 1872, and descending as far as Lake
Marsh, returned by way of the Teslin to the headwaters of the
Stikine, following in reverse a part of the route of Michael Byrnes,
of the W. U. T. Co. survey, who came up from the Stikine region
to the Teslin and Tagish lake in 1867. Holt crossed the pass
again in 1874, and descended the Yukon to the portage connect-
ing with the Kuskokwim.
In 1877 Lieut. C. I. 5S. Wood, U.S. A., undertook independent
explorations in Alaska. Mutiny of his canoemen prevented his
reaching Mt St Elias, which he wished to chmb, but he visited
Taylor and Glacier bays on Cross sound, camped and hunted
mountain goats around Geikie and Muir inlets, and crossed from
the Muir glacier to Lynn canal. He spent some time with the
Chilkats and Chilkoots, but neither Kloh-Kutz nor Doniwak,
eee ts
109
CON
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THE NORTHWE
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110 THE NORTHWEST PASSES TO THE YUKON
the one-eyed tyrant of the Chilkoot village, would let him cross
the mountains, which they pictured as full of dangers, although
Lieut. Wood was fortified with messages, gifts, and tokens from
Doniwak’s sister, the wife of Sitka Jack: An account of his stay,
“Among the Thlinkets in Alaska,” was published in The Century
magazine July, 1882.
In 1878 Doniwak peremptorily refused entrance to the pros-
pectors Rath and Bean, but is said to have permitted George
Holt to go as far as Fort Selkirk and return under guard.
In 1880 the same Hdmund Bean, with a party of nineteen
miners, were placed under the special protection of Kloh-Kutz,
through the active interest and clever diplomacy of Capt. L. A.
Beardslee, U. S. N., and guided across the passes, after giving
assurances that they would not interfere with the fur trade. A
trader did slip in in the wake of the prospectors, but being de-
tected, was brought back and his life saved by Capt. Beardslee’s
earnest interference. As these miners went in, they met James
Wynn (now of Juneau) coming out, and from him received warn-
ing of the dangerous rapids in the river beyond the lakes. Wynn
has assured me that he had previously crossed the pass in 1879.
Forty-five miners crossed the pass in the spring of 1882 and
returned in the autumn, and the Indians, finding that the pack-
ing of miners’ supplies was more remunerative than the dimin-
ishing fur-trade, virtually raised the blockade and established
an exorbitant tariff for transportation.
The Doctors Krause, of the Geographical Societies of Berlin and
Bremen, spent the year 1882 and the succeeding winter at
Pyramid Harbor and in the Chilkat villages, making the ethno-
graphic studies published in the volume Die Thlinket Indianer
and in collecting for their museum. Kloh-Iutz was, as usual,
the patron and protector of scientists, and assisted in their ex-
ploration and survey of the Chilkat river and its branches, the
Chilkat pass, and the country beyond as far as the great lake
named Lake Arkell in 1890. The Drs Krause’s maps of this
region were published by the Berlin and Bremen Geographical
Societies in 1883.
_ In 1883 Lieut. Frederick Schwatka, U.S. A., crossed by the
miners’ usual trail the eastern, Chilkoot, or Shaseki pass, re-
named it the Perrier pass, and rafted his way down the Yukon
to the sea. The miners who went in in 1883 sent back for pro-
visions and spent the winter on the upper Yukon.
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112 THE NORTHWEST PASSES TO THE YUKON
In 1884 Dr Everette, U.S. A., crossed the Chilkat pass along
the Krause route, intending to explore westward and descend
the Copper river, coOperating with Lieut. Abercrombie, who at-
tempted the exploration of Copper river from its mouth; but
neither plan was followed to completion. When Lieut. H. T.
Allen explored the Copper river in 1885, his party ascended to
the headwaters, crossed the divide to the Tanana, and descended
that stream to the Yukon.
In 1890 Mr Ii. J. Glave, leading an expedition sent out by the
Frank Leslie's Weekly newspaper, followed the Doctors Krause’s
routeto the Alsek basin, went northward and returning descended
the Alsek to the ocean at Dry bay. In 1891 Mr Glave proved his
claim that pack horses could be taken over the range and could
find sufficient pasturage in the bush country beyond. His “ Pio-
neer Pack-horses in Alaska,” published in The Century magazine,
September and October, 1892, describes his route across to Lake
Arkell, a route now known as the Dalton trail—Jack Dalton
having been his assistant in the experiment with pack-horses.
The existence of a lower pass still further east, to be reached
by an easy trail from Skagway creek, was reported to Mr Wil-
lam Ogilvie during his survey of 1887, and Capt. Moore of his
party was detailed to explore it. He determined the altitude of
the pass as 2,400 feet above sea-level, and named it in honor of
Hon. Thomas White, Canadian Minister of the Interior. It was
at once seen that White pass most easily allowed a wagon road to
be constructed across to Lake Bennett—a distance of 47 miles
and a rise of 2.400 feet, in contrast to the distance of 27 miles
and a rise of 5,500 feet on the Chilkoot, Shaseki, or Perrier pass,
again named as the Dyea pass by Mr Ogilvie.
The passes to the Yukon basin from Taku inlet and river were
known to H. B. Co. traders and the W. U. T. Co. surveyors, but
were first definitely exploited as a route to the Yukon mining
rezions by the expedition of Tieut. Schwatka, U. 8. A., and Dr
C. Willard Hayes, of the U 8. Geological Survey, in 1891. They
followed the north fork of the Taku river and crossed to Lake
Teslin, where they lacnched canvas boats and proceeded without
interruption to Fort Selkirk. The river connecting Lake Teslin
with the Lewes—known to the Indians as Teslintoo, and as the
Hootalinqua or “ Hoody-Link” to the miners—was marked on
the Coast Survey chart at the time as the Nas-a-thane, or ‘‘no sal-
mon,” and was renamed the Newberry river by Lieut. Schwatka.
OVERLAND ROUTES iO Whir sey ONDINE
By HamiiIn GARLAND
By all accounts the Yukon valley is a grim country—a coun-
try of extremes. In winter the sun hardly makes itself felt,
rising pale and white only for a few hours above the horizon,
while in summer it shines all day and, as an Irishman might
say, ‘part of the night.” Moss covers the high ground like a
thick wet sponge throughout vast areas, and the soil is in effect
perpetually frozen. There is little vegetable mould and plant
life is sparse. Steam arises under the hot sun from the cold
rain-soaked moss, and the nights are foggy and damp even in
Juneand July. Gnats and mosquitoes move to and fro in dense
clouds during midsummer, and add to the many discomforts
and discouragements of the region. Life is a warfare. Fuel is
scarce. There is little game, and not many fish. There never
were many Indians in the district—the valley is too inhospita-
ble for life of any kind to greatly abound. Agriculture is prac-
tically impossible. It is likely to freeze any night of the year.
The climate, in short, is subarctic in character, and in and about
Dawson City nearly all the features of the Arctic zone are real-
ized. The ice does not go out of the river, even at Dawson, till
late in May or June, and the river closes early in September.
Having decided that he wishes to take the risk involved in
entering this grim ‘country, the miner must decide on his route.
The routes may be divided into two groups—the overland and
the seaport. Of the overland, there are at present three—the
Edmonton and Peace River route, the “Old Telegraph Trail,”
and the Kamloops inland route. The Edmonton route begins
at Edmonton, a small town at the end of a northern spur of the
Canadian Pacific Railway, and proceeds by way of Little Slave
lake to Peace river, thence across the divide into the vailey of
the Stikine river to Telegraph creek and Teslin lake, which is
the headwaters of the Yukon. This route isa very long one, and
little information is obtainable concerning it. It is undoubtedly
practicable, and will be largely traveled by those not in breath-
less haste to get to Dawson City. It offers abundant fields for
prospecting and is a pleasant summer route. It will take about
113
OVERLAND ROUTES TO THE KLONDIKE
114
XGTIVA NOMOA
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WOUT AM
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OVERLAND ROUTES TO THE KLONDIKE 115
sixty days to go from Edmonton to Teslin lake. The citizens
of Edmonton are using all means to make this route easy and
safe. It cannot be safely used before the middleof May. Pack
horses are plentiful, and feed is good from May 15 to November.
The second overland route, the ‘‘ Old Telegraph Trail,” begins
at Ashcroft, a small village on the Canadian Pacific Railway, and
follows the Fraser river over an excellent stage road constructed
by the Canadian government to the little town of Quesnelle, 22
miles north. Good stopping-places abound along the road.
Here the road ends, and the trail turns to the west, and, passing
over a nearly level country with good grass, reaches Fort Fraser,
on Fraser lake, 125 miles from Quesnelle. Fort Fraser is a
Hudson Bay post and trading store, with two white men and
several families of Indians, quite well civilized, settled near. A
limited amount of supplies will be obtainable here. Up to this
point the trail is quite level, and though there are hundreds of
creeks none are deep or hard to pass. The three rivers, the
Blackwater, the Mud, and the Nechaco, can be forded except in
high water, when rafts will have to be used and poled or paddled
across. Neither of them is very wide. Many trails cross the
route, and it will be necessary to have a native guide, unless
some means should be taken to mark the main trail. In this
125 miles there are over 300 good hay swamps and many Indian
villages where feed for the horses can be found in abundance.
Beyond Fort Fraser the next supply point is Stuart, a Hudson
Bay post, with three or four whites and eighty or one hundred
Indians, who live in cabins and make their living by hunting,
fishing, and trapping. From Fort Fraser to Hazelton is proba-
bly 825 miles. The trip from Quesnelle to Hazelton can be
made by pack animals, and will require from sixteen to twenty
days. Hazelton has a small population of prospectors who
winter in the neighborhood. A Hudson Bay post, a few cabins,
and a couple of stores are all that are to be found here, although
about 15,000 Indians trade at this point. The goods are brought
up by a Hudson Bay boat on the Skeena river during high water.
“From here itis about 200 miles to Telegraph creek. The
trail has been traveled for thirty-five years, and the government
has spent thousands of dollars to keep it in first-class condition.
It will probably take about ten days to cover this distance, as it
is a little harder than before reaching Hazelton.” There are two
large stores at Telegraph creek at present, and undoubtedly a
small town wil! immediately spring up there. [rom Telegraph
116 OVERLAND ROUTES TO THE KLONDIKE
creek over to Teslin lake the trail will be opened and operated
by the Canadian government. A wagon road will be constructed
and a bill has already passed the House of Commons granting
subsidies for a railway. The road at present is estimated to be
about 150 miles long and can be traversed in ten days or less.
The way is wooded and has no dangerous features. At Teslin
lake is asaw-milland lumber for rafts or boats can be purchased
and the rest of the journey made by water.
The Ashcroft trail and the Kamloops route, which is practi-
cally the same in character, is alluring. It begins in a genial
climate between the coast range and aspur of the Rocky moun-
tains, and is therefore somewhat like eastern Washington in
temperature and rainfall. After leaving Quesnelle the trail
plunges at once into the wild country, and to those who are
fond of sport and adventure it will offer a special charm. There
are frequent stopping-places, and the Indians are friendly and
if properly treated will be a source of aid in case of necessity.
The advantages of this route are offset, however, by obvious
disadvantages. Itis very long. According to the most liberal
estimates, it will take forty days from Quesnelle to Telegraph
creek, though it can probably be done in less time, provided
there are no delays for bridge-building. It will be possible to
go in light, sending part of the outfit by way of Victoria to Tele-
eraph creek, and by leaving an advance order for supples with
the Hudson’s Bay Company to be delivered on a certain date
from their stores at Hazelton.
It will not do to leave Quesnelle until the grass comes, say by
the 10th of May. Before that time, even though it might afford
a fairly good “‘nip,” it would still be watery and without suffi-
cient nutriment. After the 10th of May the Ashcroft trail will
beacomparatively cheap and easy route to the Cassiar and Teslin
Lake mines, with no duties and very little toll to pay.
In the matter of outfitting itis probable that Kamloops, Ash-
croft, and Quesnelle will be able to furnish complete outfits for
a limited number of pack-trains, and being upon the Canadian
Pacific Railway, supplies in case of need could be hurried forward
by telegraph from Victoria, Vancouver, or Winnipeg.
It is safe to count on about fifty days’ time from Ashcroft,
and while the expense will be light, probably not exceeding
three hundred dollars for transportation and a year’s provisions,
it would not be well to start with less than five hundred dollars
in hand or within reach at Teslin lake.
THE FUTURE OF THE YUKON GOLDFIELDS
By Witiiam H. Dat,
Smithsonian Institution
The conditions lkely to prevail in the near future at the
Yukon goldfields have received but little attention in the public
prints. Some discussion of them may, therefore, be useful.
It is well understood among those who have had experience
in that region that the most important question for the welfare
of gold-seekers and others visiting the Yukon is that of transpor-
tation. Men and, to some extent, domestic animals may reach
the Yukon by their own efforts; but their food, tools, tents or
other portable shelter, and the heavy clothing necessary for pro-
tection against exceptional conditions of temperature and weather
must be carried. No man can carry his own provisions and
outfit without assistance. Even for dogs, the most economical
draught animals, the necessary food will take up an exorbitant
“proportion of their load. It is hopeless to attempt to transport
the necessaries of life for thousands of people by the means
hitherto in use.
A conservative estimate places the number of people at present
on the Yukon at 5,000. Few have estimated the number de-
sirous of going in during the present season as low as 50,000.
Should anything like that number succeed in reaching the Yukon
during the next six months, it means that the transportation over
that of the past season must be increased tenfold. A certain
proportion must be allowed for waste, losses in transportation
before reaching the destination, and the excess of need beyond
the ordinary ration in more temperate climes.
The number of trips to Dawson, from the seacoast, made in
1897 by the steamers now on the river was seven in all. While,
with all conditions favorable, two trips per season can be made
by a capable vessel, it is unsafe to reckon on more than one.
For 50,000 people seventy trips would have to be made in order
to eliminate the possibility of starvation which has stared so
many in the face under present conditions. This provides not
for comforts, not for necessary furniture, tools, and machinery
adequate to improve conditions as they exist, but merely to pre.
117
118 THE FUTURE OF THE YUKON GOLDFIELDS
vent things from getting worse. Does any reasonable person-
familiar with the region believe that seventy trips are possible ?
Quite a number of flat-bottomed stern-wheelers for the Yukon
are believed to be in process of construction at Unalaska, the in-
tention being to tow them to St Michael on the opening of nav-
igation. Suppose that the fleet succeeds in reaching that port
by the 27th of June, the average date when the ice goes out of
Norton sound. Allow a week for getting them loaded in work-
ing order and ready to start for the river with a few days’ fuel
onboard. Ifthey take much fuel they cannot take goods. Once
well within the delta, feeling their way cautiously over the sand
bars of the river, unknown to most of their navigators, they must
depend for fuel on wood cut from the banks. The wood of the
country is spruce, with a little poplar and willow. These will
not burn when green. When the river ice breaks up, about June
1, an enormous quantity of driftwood is carried down by the
water, which runs bank full, owing to the obstruction caused by
the broken ice. When the ice is fairly out the river falls a little,
and all along the bars, low banks, and level beaches this wood
is stranded, to remain until the freshet of next spring. It is
mainly upon this driftwood that the steamers depend for fuel.
The two old companies have landings scattered along the river
and Indians employed during the winter cutting up the wood
and sledding it to places where the steamer can reach the bank.
The population of the Yukon is small in proportion to the
area. ‘The reliable Indians are few and already engaged. When
the first rush of the melting snows is over the river falls rapidly
into its normal channel and for the most part remains there
during July and August. Later the mountain springs begin to
give out, or freeze at night, and the river continues to fall. Wide
flats appear on either side, so that the spring drift, stranded on
the shores, is separated from the channel by a wide space of
sand and mud, over which wood must be carried after being
found and cut into suitable lengths for use. The dry spruce
burns rapidly, and 12 cords a day seems a not unreasonable
estimate of the amount required to run a good-sized boat well
loaded. How much of each day will be used up in procuring
wood by the steamers not belonging to the two old companies
any one may estimate for himself.
Taking this delay into consideration, it is evident the inde-
pendent steamers are very unlikely to be able to make more
than one trip up the river as far as Dawson during the season.
THE FUTURE OF THE YUKON GOLDFIELDS 119
Let us allow two trips for each of the old companies’ steamers,
or, say, twenty-four loads, and one trip each for ten independ-
ent steamers. The total amounts to thirty-four loads, or less
than half the number required to keep the assumed influx of
people on a next-to starvation basis through the winter of 1898-
99. I cannot emphasize too strongly that no dependence is to
be placed on the rare beds of inferior lignite which occur on the
upper river, even were any attempt being made to work them,
which is not the case. The lower river affords plenty of food in
the shape of salmon; but this must be caught, dressed, and dried
or salted in the height of the season, July and August, when the
very men who may need it are straining every nerve to reach
the upper river, where there is very little fish. Once the ice
sets in, transportation over it of any large body of food, such as
would be required by the assumed population, is impossible.
Enough has been said to show the impossibility of feeding
50,000 people by means of supplies carried up the river under
present conditions.
We may now turn our attention to other routes of supply.
We are told that the Canadian government proposes to give a
monopoly of transportation over the old trail from Glenora, on
the Stikine river, to Lake Teslin. No reasonable person familiar
with the conditions of the region will believe that a railway 150
miles long can be built and equipped for traffic over this route
in four months. No such person in his senses will claim that
provisions could be taken from Lake Teslin to Dawson for a
population of thousands, in the winter season, over the frozen
river. It is wholly impracticable. There is, therefore, no hope
of adequate relief by this route.
By the short route over the passes, if an immediate start is
made, it is just possible that provisions might be rushed through
before the close of navigation; but that this will be accom-
plished there is little reason to hope. While legislators are
wrangling about special privileges, precious time is being wasted,
and many lives will pay the penalty. Unless the rush of in-
comers is checked and the influx of people rigidly restrained, I
see no escape from the conclusion that the winter of 1898-99 will
see starvation on the Yukon on an unparalleled scale. Every
instinct of humanity calls aloud for the promotion of every pos-
sible transportation facility at once. Nothing but the fullest
freedom in putting through every possible means of transport
while there is yet time, regardless of private greed and the not un-
120 THE FUTURE OF THE YUKON GOLDFIELDS
natural desire to retain national control of the means of transit,
can be justified fora moment. The true interest of Canada, as
well as of the United States, hes in the fullest development of the
resources of the region, and without accepting all possible means
of transportation this is impossible. Those who may be able
from their own resources to push through a year’s supply of pro-
visions for themselves will in the long run beas much interested
as any others in the welfare of the whole mass of immigrants,
for a starving man will respect no property rights in food, and
no man in the face of starving people may hope to keep his own
store intact.
Leaving out of account the impending crisis on the Yukon, it
is the writer’s belief that it is imperatively necessary for the de-
velopment of the goldfields that transportation for coal should
be provided from the seacoast to the Yukon, avoiding the inter-
rupted navigation of the Lewes river. Here, again, the change
from the sea-going vessel to a river steamer on the Stikine, from
that steamer to the railway, and then to another steamer on the
Teslin marks the Stikine route as impracticable. One transship-
ment to the railway at Pyramid Harbor and from the cars to
barges on the Yukon is so much simpler and cheaper as to put
an end to argument.
The present method of using wood ofso poora quality as spruce
on the Yukon steamers cannot last if the country is to be per-
manently developed. With coal floated downstream on barges
from the headwaters the steamers might be abundantly supplied |
with suitable fuel, and two or even more tripsa season might be
reckoned on as acertainty. British Columbia has coal in abun-
dance, and here would be a means of its indefinite utilization,
by which a far greater profit would inure to the people of that
province than is possible through any short-sighted monopoly
of transportation, which would infallibly strangle the develop-
ment of their Yukon goldfield in a very short time.
A broad and generous codperation of both countries is essen-
tial to a satisfactory outcome of the projects now in contempla-
tion. Let us hope that it may be realized before it is too late.
The length of the coast-line of Alaska is estimated at 18,211
miles, which is greater than that of the entire coast-line of the
United States.
ol
NOTES ON THE WILD FOWL AND GAME ANIMALS
OF ALASKA
By EH. W. NELson,
Biological Survey, U. S. Department of Agriculture
Among the many interesting features to be seen by visitors to
Alaska, the animal life is noteworthy for several reasons. During
the brief summer, the otherwise desolate tundras are animated
by swarms of water-fowl, which arrive from the south in spring
as soon as the bare ground begins to appear, and after a short
delay set about their summer housekeeping. The water-fowl
on the rivers and lakes of the interior are the familiar species
which winter among the ponds and marshes of the western
United States. The Canada, Hutchin’s, white-fronted, and
snowy geese are there with swans and fresh-water ducks of
many species. Besides these, sand-hill cranes and numerous
waders abound. One of the most strikingly colored species
along the small tributaries of the Yukon is the harlequin duck.
The most interesting part of the bird-life of this region, however,
is found along the coast of Bering sea. Four species of eider
ducks occur there, some of which are very handsome. Among
these the king, Steller’s, and spectacled eiders are shown in the
accompanying illustrations.*
The emperor goose is another fine bird peculiar to this coun-
try; it has its home in the marshy region between the mouths
of the Yukon and Kuskokwim rivers. It is the most elegantly
dressed of its kind in America. The top and sides of the head
and neck are snowy white, the chin, throat, and under side of
the neck blackish, and the feathers of the back a soft, silky, gray
color, bordered bya black crescent near the end and tipped with
white. The under surface is similar, but duller, and the feet
are vivid orange.
The black brant pass along the coast of Bering sea in great
numbers every spring, and afford royal sport to persons fortu-
nate enough to choose good stands while the flight lasts.
During the four years the writer lived at St Michael water-
fowl was a very important item in the bill of fare, and when the
*I am indebted to Mr F. W. True, Executive Curator, U.S. National Museum, for the
photographs of bird and mammal groups in the Museum which illustrate this article.
9 121 .
122 THE WILD FOWL AND GAME ANIMALS OF ALASKA
frosty autumn days approached he sallied out with his compan-
ions into the marshes to lay in a supply of ducks and geese for
winter. The question of cold storage cut no figure, for the two
or three hundred birds brought in were drawn and hung up in
an old warehouse and the climate did the rest, enabling us to
have roast duck or goose during the entire winter.
— — eS = ooeeesetecree er a Serre
HARLEQUIN DUCK SPECTACLED EIDER
KING EIDER STELLER’S EIDER
Among the numerous berries growing wild on the treeless hills
of this coast,a kind of blueberry is very abundant in September,
and the young ducks feed upon it until they become excessively
fat and so delicately flavored that they are delicious morsels.
We became tired of hung duck, however, before the winter ended,
and when the first solitary goose came flying over in spring, on
a reconnoitering trip, there was general rejoicing. I still remem-
ber the hearty zest with which we put an extra edge on our
knives and attacked the pioneer old gander that fell to our guns.
He was lean and tough after his long flight, but was thoroughly
enjoyed as an earnest of the coming season of plenty.
Two kinds of ptarmigan are common on the mainland, and
will be considered dainty birds by many a hungry prospector,
THE WILD FOWL AND GAME ANIMALS OF ALASKA 123
although, to tell the truth, they are about the poorest flavored
of the American grouse. Their handsome summer plumage of
mottled brown gives way in winter to one of snowy white. In
winter, in the valley of the Kuskokwim the ptarmigan called
willow grouse gather in large flocks. During my sledge jour-
neys I sometimes encountered flocks of hundreds among the
patches of scrubby willows, and when flushed it seemed as if
the snowy surface of the ground had suddenly burst up and
taken wing.
When the first mossy knolls appear in spring the willow grouse
begins to lose its snowy winter dress. At first a few brown feath-
ers show about the base of the bill and gradually increase in
EMPEROR GOOSE
number until the entire head becomes brown while the body is
still white. his progressive change keeps pace with the melt-
ing snow, and with the disappearance of the last dri-ts the last
white feather has been dropped and the bird is in full summer
garb. The willow grouse begins its courtship in May, with the ap-
pearance of the first brown feathers, and it is vigorously carried
on with loud challenging notes of defiance, accompanied bymany
fierce rough-and-tumble fights. When the ground is mostly bare,
the snow remaining only in scattered drifts, the males choose
these white patches as the stage upon which to strut and ruffle
for the admiration of their female friends. In the tundras they
may be seen and heard on all sides as they fly up with stiffened
124 THE WILD FOWL AND GAME ANIMALS OF ALASKA
wings a few yards above the snowbanks and then glide down,
uttering loud harsh notes. Every now and then the efforts of
some gallant cock become too obnoxious for his neighbor, who
starts full tilt for his detested rival. The latter likes nothing
better and meets the enemy in mid-air. They clinch and fall
to the ground, apparently using beak, wings, and claws in the
encounter. During such times the moult of white feathers is
profuse and the combatants are the center of a perfect blur of
whirling plumage. Directly one of the birds gets enough and
starts off in hasty flight, pursued for thirty or forty yards by
the victor, who then gives up the chase and fairly splits his
throat with exultant notes. The Hskimos take advantage of
this belligerency and snare many ptarmigan by means of fine
sinew nets placed on small stakes set on the snow around stuffed
skins of male birds. The hunter conceals himself and imitates
the challenge cries until a neighboring grouse dashes blindly at
his supposed rival and becomes enmeshed in the net.
Aside from the birds which have a definite value as food are
numerous smaller species, among which the “ whisky jack ” will
become a familiar character to the miners. He is a kind of jay
with a dull, smoky-brown coat and bright inquisitive eyes, and
is withal an intelligent and companionable little chap, who has
no hesitation in sharing your camp for the gratification of a
frank curiosity and sound appetite. His impish ways were
always highly entertaining to me and I do not doubt will fur-
nish amusement to many a gold-hunter in his lonely camp.
Although I have dwelt upon the birds because they are more
numerous and more generally distributed than most other kinds
SEA OTTER
THE WILD FOWL AND
GAME
ANIMALS OF ALASKA
125
BARREN GROUND CARIBOU
126 THE WILD FOWL AND GAME ANIMALS OF ALASKA
of game, the man who loves the rifle will find his opportunity
among the mountains and valleys of the interior. Formerly
large mammals were much more numerous in Alaska than at
present, and the decrease has come about almost entirely since
our ownership of the country. The history of the fur-seal is
well known. The sea otter is another animal that is passing
away. Its doom is even more certain than that of the fur-seal,
for itis a dangerous thing for an animal to wear a coat worth
from five hundred to a thousand dollars. All that has kept the
sea otter from extinction is its shyness and the fact that the
stormy parts of the sea it frequents render its pursuit hazardous
and uncertain. Upon the mainland are several fine mammals,
among which native reindeer are the most generally distributed.
There are two kinds of these deer—a large, dark-colored one,
ealled the woodland caribou, which lives in the wooded district
of the upper Yukon, anda smaller, paler kind, called the barren
ground caribou, which lives in the open tundras or treeless
country. Barren ground caribou were once exceedingly numer-
ous, and the coast hills along the shores of Norton sound are
still scored with their trails, leading diagonally up to the cool
summits, where the animals used to go in summer to avoid the
mosquitoes that swarm on the tundras. But even so far back as
1877 the caribou was very rare along most of the coast of Bering
sea. When Alaska passed under Anferican control it became
possible for the natives to secure breech-loading rifles, especially
where whalers and trading schooners called, and the result was
a rapid slaughter of the large game.
Since the barren ground caribou usually live in the open tun-
dras where there is no cover, it is extremely difficult for the
hunter to approach unseen. Like the antelope of our western
plains, they are inquisitive animals, and before starting away
often make a circuit about anything which excites their interest.
Before they became sophisticated by the common use of guns,
the Eskimos had aningenious method of stalking them in open
ground, which the old hunters told me was very successful. The
Eskimos hunted in pairs, and when they found a bunch of caribou
on an open plain they would start directly for the animals, one
hunter walking immediately behind the other, keeping step, with
their bodies touching, so that from the front they appeared like
oneman. When they were still some distance away, the caribou
would throw up their heads and start off to circle around the in-
truders. The hunters kept on in their original course, appar-
THE WILD FOWL AND GAME ANIMALS OF ALASKA — 127
ently paying no attention to them, and when the men passed
the first little bush, knoll, or other cover the one in the rear sank
down behind it while his companion kept on. The caribou con-
tinued to circle as the single hunter advanced, and were almost
certain to pass close to the concealed man and thus afford a deadly
shot at short range. The sudden appearance of the concealed
hunter drew the attention of the game from the man who had
gone on, enabling him to drop flat upon the ground without be-
ing noticed. The caribou, in starting off wildly from the new:
danger, often ran within shot of the man who had last concealed
himself Hunters told me that in this way they often got several
shots before the animals finally gathered their wits and left the
vicinity.
The large woodland caribou of the upper Yukon lives in the
forest with the moose. The latter ranges over much of the inte-
rior, and during my residence in the country a single individual
was killed in the Yukon delta close to the sea—a very rare oc-
currence. In summer they are rarely hunted by the Indians in
the dense forests of the upper Yukon, but are killed every now
and then on the banks of streams or while swimming across them.
In winter they wander from place to place, browsing on the tender
twigs of cottonwoods, white birches, and willows, until the in-
creasing depth of snow forces them to unite in “ yards.” When
caught in deep snow or with a heavy crust they are easily killed
by the Indians who follow them on snow-shoes.
On the upper Yukon the old method of moose hunting in
early winter was for the Indians to go out on snow-shoes after a
heavy snowfall and search for fresh trails. When one was found
the swiftest runner, stripped to a shirt and breeches and carry-
ing a light shotgun loaded with ball, started off after the moose,
while the women and slower runners followed. Sometimes a
moose would run eight or ten miles before being overtaken. At
this season the cold is generally very intense, and the hunter
would quickly freeze if he stopped while heated from his long
run and with so little clothing. [or this reason, after killing the
moose, he returned tocamp ata run, leaving the followers to cut up
and drag the carcass home. When there was a light crust, small
dogs were used to bring the moose to bay and enable the hunter
to kill it with less exertion. Before the snow fell in autumn the
moose were stalked in the dense spruce thickets, but they were
very wary animals, and usually became alarmed and started off
at a swift trot, with a great clatter of hoofs, before the hunter
128 THE WILD FOWL AND GAME ANIMALS OF ALASKA
caught sight of them. At such times the Indian, knowing the
country and the habits of the game, would run at his best speed
to the opposite side of the small basin or valley and take a posi-
tion where he could see for some distance on all sides, for when
started in this manner the moose often made a wide circuit and
returned within gunshot.
DALL’S MOUNTAIN SHEEP
Two species of mountain sheep, quite different from one another
and from the Rocky Mountain bighorn, are known in northwestern
America. The first of these, a superb, snow-white animal, was
described by the writer some years ago as Ovis dalli, in honor of
Prof. Wm. H. Dall, the pioneer scientific explorer on the Yukon.
The specimens upon which my description was based were ob-
tained from the Fort Reliance country by Mr L. N. McQuesten,
now President of the Order of Yukon Pioneers. Dall’s moun-
tain sheep is found over a wide area, from the low hills beyond
the tree limit near the Arctic coast south across the Yukon and
Kuskokwim tothe Alaskan range. Last year Dr J. A. Allen de-
scribed another species from the headwaters of the Stikine river
and named it Ovis. stone’. But little is known of this handsome
animal, which has a dark, almost iron-gray, coat, very different
from the white of Dall’s sheep. The discovery of these two sheep
in northwestern America indicates that we may expect other in-
teresting, if less striking, new forms of animal life in the moun-
tains of that region.
THE WILD FOWL AND GAME ANIMALS OF ALASKA 129
In the high mountains bordering the Pacific coast, north of
Sitka, mountain goats occur, but we have little definite informa-
tion concerning their range and abundance. Owing to the white
color of Dall’s sheep, it is quite probable that in many cases they
may have been mistaken for goats.
Bears also are very numerous in some places, and several kinds
are known to occur. The huge bear of Kadiak and the Alaskan
peninsula is the largest species in the world, and the skull of an
old male looks as if he belonged to the animal life of a former
geologic age, when beasts of gigantic size roamed the earth.
Black bears are generally distributed over the mainland, except
on the barren tundras bordering the Arctic coast. About the
last of October or first of November they find a sheltered cleft or
cavern in the rocks, where they make a bed of leaves and grasses
and hibernate until the warm days of April bring them out again.
On the upper Yukon the Indians kill them with arrows, guns,
orspears. Some of the bravest and most powerful of the hunters
will attack them armed only with a long-bladed knife. In such
cases the hunter wraps a blanket about his left hand and arm,
and with it thus protected thrusts it out for the bear to seize as
it rises upon its haunches, giving him an opportunity to make a
fatal thrust under the guard thus formed. Both Eskimos and
Indians give these animals credit for supernatural knowledge
andcunning. The Eskimo hunters are very careful not to speak
in a disrespectful manner of bears, and are especially guarded
POLAR BEAR
130 THE WILD FOWL AND GAME ANIMALS OF ALASKA
against letting any one know of their plan to goon a bear hunt.
They believe firmly that if they should speak of such intention
these animals would know it at once and would lie in ambush
to attack them. Bears figure largely in the folk-lore and cere-
monial dances of the Eskimos on the lower Kuskokwim and
Yukon rivers.
About the Arctic coast the polar bear is a regular winter visitor,
and a halfgrown individual was killed near St Michael in Au-
gust, 1880. They are common on the pack-ice of the Arctic
ocean north of Bering strait, and many were seen during the
cruise of the Corwin in 1881. The accompanying illustration
represents a female killed by the writer near Wrangel island,
while with the Corwin. In summer these animals are usually
well fed and avoid encountering men whenever possible. In
winter, when hunger presses, they become dangerous, and I have
heard of several Eskimos who were killed and have seen others
who were badly scarred from encounters with them.
In the fall, as the pack-ice comes south through Bering strait, it
brings great herds of walruses and many white bears. The latter
sometimes reach the Fur-Seal islands, but only at rare intervals.
Some years many of the bears fail to retreat beyond the strait
early enough in spring and are left stranded on St Matthew and
St Lawrence islands. During the summer of 1874 Mr Elhott
and Lieut Maynard found them on St Matthew island to the
number of several hundred. When these gentlemen landed
on the neighboring Hall island the same season sixteen white
bears were in sight as the boat approached the shore, ten of
which were together on the beach. Quite a number were killed
and none showed fight. They were fat and when asleep were
easily approached. When aroused they stood up and sniffed at
the party as if to learn whether they were friends or foes, and
when the men were scented the bears ran back into the hills.
At this time they were seen feeding on grass and roots, with
motions like those of a grazing hog.
Aside from the whales, the walrus is the largest Alaskan mam-
mal. Formerly it was very numerous around the islands and
along the American coast of Bering sea and the Arctic ocean.
During the cruise of the Corwin we saw thousands of them on
the border of the pack-ice. The Eskimos report the female wal-
ruses to be very dangerous in April and May, when they have
young. At that time they say an old female will attack a man
in a kyak on sight, and becomes as fierce and dangerous as an
THE WILD FOWL AND GAME ANIMALS OF ALASKA 131
old bear. An Eskimo living at Cape Vancouver once told me
of an encounter he had had with a walrus while seal hunting in
the drift-ice off the cape, in which he and a companion had a
narrow escape. They met and killed a young walrus without
having seen the female. A moment later she arose in the water
and, catching sight of the hunters, uttered a hoarse bellowing
ery and dashed at them. The men paddled for their lives and
reached a cake of ice just in time to escape. Here they were
kept prisoners for nearly a day. Several times, supposing she
had gone, they launched their kyaks, but the moment they did
so she appeared and drove them back on the ice. During our
cruise in the Arctic we saw many females with young, and the
watchfulness of the old ones was very noticeable. The young
nearly always swam directly in front of its mother, and the
latter, in diving, always carried the little one under with her by
resting the points of her tusks on its shoulders and forcing it
down.
In the old days, when caribou were abundant, wolves were
common and ran in large packs. With the growing scarcity of
caribou the wolves decreased, until, during my residence at St
Michael, they were uncommon along the coast of Bering sea
and the adjacent interior. The white and blue arctic or stone
foxes are common on the barrens, and red foxes are also com-
mon and much more widely distributed. The region about
Dawson City was formerly noted for the number and quality of
the black fox skins taken there every winter. Canada lynxes,
wolverines, land otter, American sable and mink are among the
fur-bearing animals which helped make up the main wealth of
Alaska until recent developments.
Among the ‘‘ rats and mice and such small deer” are many ani-
mals of more or less interest. The whistling marmots live in the
mountains about the upper Yukon and Tanana rivers, and the
bob-tailed little conies are also found in that region. The last-
named animal makes its home in broken masses of rock and has
an amusing way of barking at strange visitors with a squeaking
voice like that of a toy dog.
The great increase in the population of Alaska which is now
taking place cannot but have a decided effect upon the large
game. Most of the prospecting parties will be provided with
rifles and will tuke every opportunity of securing an addition to
their scanty camp fare. With this going on in thousands of lo-
calities in the hitherto unvisited areas, the effect will necessarily
132 CLIMATIC CONDITIONS OF ALASKA
“a
be disastrous to such animals as bears, mountain sheep, caribou,
and moose. Unfortunately not a museum in the world has even
a passable representation from Alaska of any of these animals.
The threatened early extermination of such fine species is to
be greatly deplored, but cannot well be avoided, and it is alto-
gether probable that within two or three years it will be ex-
tremely difficult, if not impossible, to secure specimens for scien-
tific purposes. The U.S. National Museum in Washington is
the proper repository for a full representation of the animals in-
digenous to our territory, for exhibition purposes as well as scien-
tific study, and it will be a great loss to science if any of the large
Alaskan mammals become extinct before a proper series of skins
and skulls is in the possession of this institution. I wish to im-
press this upon settlers and others going to Alaska the present
season, in the hope that, having their attention called to the im:
portance of saving specimens, they may take a patriotic interest
in placing them in the National Capital.
CLIMATIC CONDITIONS OF ALASKA
By GrENERAL A. W. GREELY, U. 5. Army
The most obvious elements of climate are those of tempera-
ture, humidity, precipitation (rain, snow, fog, etc.), and winds,
and of these temperature and precipitation affect most potently
the comfort and prosperity of man.
It is about 25 years since the writer was one of several con-
sulted by the late General A. J. Myer as to the establishment of
stations of observation in Alaska, and in 1881 he was consulted
by the late General W. B. Hazen regarding the extension of the
system of such observations in the same remote and almost un-
known region. <A certain class of persons—those who plume
themselves on being strictly utilitarian—then sneered ata policy
that would expend a few hundred dollars annually for the pur-
chase of instruments and for the cost of recording meteorological
observations by volunteer observers on this outer edge of this
civilized world. ‘‘Who knows or cares,” said they, “ whether
the Yukon river flows into Bering sea or the Arctic ocean, and
of what use is a knowledge as to the summer and winter condi-
tions under which the animals of this river valley live and
thrive ? ”
CLIMATIC CONDITIONS OF ALASKA 133
Today the question answers itself, and tens of thousands of
men eagerly search for reliable and satisfactory data on which
to base their plans and outfits for their search for fortunes in the
gold regions of the upper Yukon. It therefore seems timely to
bring together such observations of the climatic conditions of the
different parts of Alaska as may give at least a general idea as
to the weather to be encountered.
Most extensive countries have two kinds of climate: first,
the continental type, where far from the sea we find hot sum-
mers, cold winters, light rainfalls, and much sunshine; second,
the littoral or shore type, where the heat of summer and the cold
of winter are modified by moist winds from the ocean bringing
copious or heavy rains. To these Alaska adds a third kind, the
marine or island type, where the winters are, comparatively
speaking, unduly warm and the summers unduly cool, while
rains, fogs, and cloudiness are prevalent through the greater part
of the year.
Considering first the marine climate, it is to be said that it
prevails on all the outlying islands of Alaska in the Aleutian
archipelago and in parts of the Alaskan peninsula. Naturally
the extremes of temperature become more marked to the north.
The littoral or coast climate of Alaska is materially tempered
by the oceanic current usually known as the Japan stream, which
keeps at an abnormally high temperature the moisture-laden
winds that, blowing landward, deposit large quantities of rain
or snow, thus setting free large quantities of latent heat to warm
the land. The enormous quantity of such heat and its influence
on the temperature of the air may beimagined from Haughton’s
calculations, which show that “one gallon of rainfall gives out
latent heat sufficient to melt seventy-five pounds of ice oz to melt
4.5 pounds of cast iron.”
The settlers and miners of Alaska will find that the coast
conditions change rapidly as one goes inland to a continental
climate of the most pronounced type. Cool, cloudy, and rainy
summers, and raw, damp, foggy, and not very cold winters are
to be anticipated along the immediate main coast or the inlets.
Wherever rapidly rising shores are found the hills or mountains
are subject to heavy precipitation, with resulting deep snows
and low temperatures for a considerable part of the year.
Almost everywhere in Alaska the climate changes decidedly
within one hundred miles of the mainland coast and becomes
continental in its characteristics. Rain and snow are less fre-
134 CLIMATIC CONDITIONS OF ALASKA
quent, the summers are longer and warmer, the skies less cloudy,
and the winters marked with excessive cold, though the winds
are much lighter and storms are infrequent. Continuous freezing
weather, usually below zero, continues for months, and even in
July, with midday temperatures of 70° to 80°, it is an almost
daily occurrence for the temperature to fall during the night to
the neighborhood of the freezing point.
Let us now turn from general statements to specific data from
such selected stations as are acknowledged as climatically typi-
cal of various parts of Alaska. In so doing one turns naturally
to Dall’s admirable article and tables on the meteorology of
Alaska, published in the Pacific Coast Pilot, 1879. Although his
work and charts are 21 years old, yet they are the only discus-
sion and data that have ever been published on the general me-
teorological conditions of Alaska.
St Paul island, Bering sea, has a typical marine climate; its
lowest recorded temperature is —12° and its maximum 62°. The
temperature rarely exceeds 50°, and in 1875 it only reached 48°.
February is the coldest month, with an average temperature of
26.1°, and August the warmest, with a mean of 48.4°.
Sitka is a typical coast station for extreme southern Alaska
and Point Barrow for the northern. In 45 years Sitka had ex-
treme temperatures of 88° and —4°. The coldest month is Janu-
ary, 01.4°, and the warmest August, 54.9°. Every year it is either
rainy or snowy 200 days on an average. In 1856 rain and snow
fell on no less than 286 days, but in 1883 there were only 114
such days. The annual rainfall is very great, being 81 inches,
of which about one-half falls from September to December.
_ Point Barrow, the extreme northern point of Alaska, is in 71° —
3’ N., 156° 40’ W., and its climate is important as indicating
closely that of the coast-line of the whole tundra or moorland
rezion situated along the Arctic ocean. It should be remem-
bered that as one goes inland the winter becomes colder and
clearer; the summers, warmer and drier. The observations of
Capt. P. H. Ray, 1881-’83, and of H. M.S. Plover, 1852-54, are
the base of the following notes: The winter is long, as freezing
weather obtains from early September to early June, when sum-
mer comes in full force. The mean winter temperatures are:
December, —15.4°; January, —17.5°; and February, —18.6°,
with occasional periods when the cold is from 40 to 52 degrees
below zero. The average heat of July is 38.1°, and of August
3/.9°; but the temperature often rises above 50° and has touched
CLIMATIC CONDITIONS OF ALASKA 135
65.5°. Thesnowfalls are light, amounting (melted) to 8.25 inches,
the greater part falling from July to October. The severity of
the cold is indicated by the fact that the ground was found frozen,
as far as excavations were made, to the depth of 38 feet. Winds
and gales are most frequent from August to November and the
lightest winds are from February to May. . The natives quit their
snow huts for tents about May 1. The tundra is snow-free late
in June.
- The watershed of the Yukon includes the regions whose cli-
matic factors are at present of the greatest interest and prospect-
ive value. Fortunately, there are sufficient data to justify clear-
cut statements that must closely approximate the truth.
St Michael, 68° 28’ N., 162° 04’ W., although an island, imme-
diately borders the mainland near the mouth of the Yukon. Its
climatic characteristics have been fully set forth by Mr E. W.
Nelson. The winter is very long, the average temperature being
below the freezing point from October to April, inclusive. The
coldest month, February, averages from twelve years’ observa-
tions, —2.8°, but in 1877 it was —23,7°. A temperature as low
as —55° has been observed. The warmest month, July, has a
mean temperature of 53.6°. It should be said that one summer
month of any year. closely resembles the same month of any
other year, but there are great variations between the same
winter months of various years. Spring bursts into summer
about the middle of May, but it reverts more slowly to winter
through a partial autumn. Summer is very depressing, from its
frequent spells of misty rain and the prolonged presence for
many days of unbroken, low clouds. Winteris marked by long
periods of beautifully clear days, which are usually of intense
cold. Strong gales occur irregularly through the year. While
most frequent in autumn, yet fierce winter storms are not un-
common, which, with their terrible accompaniments of blinding
clouds of snow and temperatures considerably below zero, are
wisely dreaded, as even the hardy natives sometimes perish
therein. The harbor closes as a rule by October 15, and rarely
opens before June 10. The breaking up of the Yukon ice about
- the Ist of June is usually followed by several fogey days. Very
light rains or snow are frequent and continued. The precijsita-
tions scarcely reach 18 inches annually, of which the greater part
falls from July toSeptember. Snow falls often in summer, some-
times in notable amounts. Rain or snow falls three days out
of five from August to October, but only one out of four from
January to March.
136 CLIMATIC CONDITIONS OF ALASKA
At Nulato, 60° 40’ N., 158° 13’ W., the summer consists largely
of warm, hazy days, free from high winds or much rain. The
Yukon closes about October 20 and opens late in May. At
Ikogmut mission, 61° 47’ N., 161° W., the river closes about No-
vember 4 and breaks up about May 23, but in 1849 it remained
closed until June 5.
Mr A. J. Henry gives in the Monthly Weather Review, August,
1897, other temperature means for short periods. The lowest
monthly means are as follows: Anvik, 62° 37’ N., 160° W., De-
cember, —2.1°; Tuklukyet, 65° 10’ N., 152° 45’ W., January,
—11.1°; Belle Isle (a short distance up the Yukon from Circle
City), 65° 30’ N., 142° 38’ W., January, —15.8°; Camp Colonna,
about 64° 45’ N., 141° W., February, —15.38°; Camp Davidson,
about 67° 30’. N.,141° W., January, —17.4°; Fort Reliance, 64°
10’ N., 189° 25’ W., January, —28.7°.
The most important temperature observations in the Klondike
regions are those made at Dawson from August, 1895, to Novem-
ber, 1896, by Mr William Ogilvie, whose scientific standing and
ability are guarantees of their worth. While they do not give
all the mean temperatures, yet they record the minimum and
much information of value. In July only the temperature did
not sink below freezing. During June, July, and August, 1896,
the temperature rose on 29 days above 70° and thrice above 80°.
The extreme severity of the winter is indicated by the fact that
from December 1, 1895, to February 1, 1896, the temperature
fell below zero every day. On 28 days it fell lower than —40° ;
on 14 days, lower than —50°, and on nine days lower than —60°.
The mean temperature for January, 1896, was —40.7°, and for
February, —35.4°. Bright weather is the rule. From October
1, 1895, to the 1st of May following, snow fell only on one day in
seven. In June, 1896, however, it rained on 12 days and the
temperature rose above 80°. The Yukon broke up on May 17
and ran thickly with ice until the 23d, when the first boat came
down the river. Except for two weeks, the Yukon was free from
ice until October 29; it was frozen solid November 5.
The temperature observations at Fort Reliance, adjacent to
Dawson, in 1880-’81, communicated to THe NarionaL GEo-
GRAPHIC MAGAZINE of November, 1897, by Mr E. W. Nelson, con-
firm the severity of the winter climate. The Yukon was frozen
from November 2 to May 14. The mean temperatures for De-
cember, January, and February were —31°, —7°, and —29° re-
spectively, and on 35 days the thermometer registered between
A YUKON PIONEER, MIKE LEBARGE 137
—40° and —66°. Snow fell but one day in February and 25
days were perfectly clear.
With the middle of May summer comes at once, the Yukon
breaks up, the snow vanishes as if by magic, and vegetation
develops with astonishing rapidity until opening September
brings sharp frosts almost daily.
By methods familiar to meteorologists the temperature means
for the three coldest months—December, January, and February
—have been calculated for all the points hereafter named, except
for St Michael, which is definitely known. St Michael, mouth of
Yukon, 3.3°; Anvik, 62° 37’ N., 160° W., —1.2°; Circle City,
—10.2°, and Dawson, 64° 05’ N.’ 188° W., —24°. Any single
winter may be considerably warmer or colder than is here cal-
culated, but the means are practically correct and afford a good
idea of all intervening points in the valley of the Yukon, and
therefore have a definite value for all who seek to wrest from
rugged and inhospitable Nature the golden hoards of Alaska.
A YUKON PIONEER, MIKE LEBARGE
The first white men to explore the Yukon between the Russian
settlements and the Hudson Bay post called Fort Yukon were
Frank Ketchum, of St Johns, New Brunswick, and Michel Le-
barge, of Chateauguay, Quebec. After the death of the lamented
Kennicott, at Nulato, in May, 1866, the expedition which he had
planned and which was only waiting for the ice to pass out of
the river to make a start, was loyally and successfully carried
out by his chosen and faithful companions. ‘They ascended the
river from Nulato to Fort Yukon, and then returned, crossing the
portage to St Michael to make their report to the commander-in-
chief of the Telegraph expedition, Col. Chas. S. Bulkeley, at that
port. The following year the party was augmented by Wm. H.
Dalland Frederick Whymper, who winteredat Nulato. Ketchum
and Lebarge undertook a remarkable journey over the frozen
river to Fort Yukon in March, accompanied by two Indians.
They arrived safely at their destination just as the ice was break-
ing up, and after the freshet was over took birch canoes at Fort
Yukon and continued their explorations to the junction of the
Lewes and the Pelly at the site of old Fort Selkirk. Returning,
they joined Dall and Whymper at Fort Yukon, the second half
of the party having made the journey to that point in canoes.
10
138 A YUKON PIONEER, MIKE LEBARGE
The united party then descended the river to the sea and reached
St Michael in safety, thus making the first continuous trip from
the headwaters to the sea.
Michel Lebarge was born in Chateauguay in 1837, of Canadian
parents of French origin. In May, 1865, he started for Califor-
nia, on the steamer Golden Rule, by the Nicaragua route. On
the same vessel were Kennicott and his companions on their way
to join the expedition of the Western Union Telegraph Company
for the exploration of Russian America. The crossing of Nica-
ragua was accompanied by a number of lively incidents, includ-
ing the loss of asteamer on the San Juan river; and the excellent
qualities displayed by Lebarge in trying circumstances attracted
the attention of Kennicott and led to the engagement of the young
Canadian in the corps of northern explorers. After the disband-
ing of the Telegraph expedition, in which the courage, ingenuity,
and companionable characteristics of Lebarge had made him a
universal favorite and cemented an enduring friendship with his
American comrades, in 1868 he engaged in the fur trade in the
Yukon region with a number of associates, under the name of
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 139
the Pioneer American Fur Co., and in 1871 entered the service
of the Alaska Commercial Company, from which he retired, with
a modest competency, in 1875. He is now living in his native
town in the Province of Quebec. An indefatigable traveler, a
delightful companion en route or by the camp fire, full of expe-
dients whatever befell, tactful and adroit in his dealing with the
natives, generous and helpful to the inexperienced—in short, a
capital voyageur of the best type—no one who knew him in those
days but thinks of him always with admiration and affection.
‘His services to geography are commemorated by Lake Lebarge,
on the direct route to the Klondike, and Lebarge river, an afflu-
ent of the Yukon from the north below Fort Yukon. The name
Lebarge has been variously spelled; the form in use during the
expedition has been adopted as here written by the U.S. Board
on Geographic Names. Frank Ketchum lies under the green turf
of an Unalaska hillside. May his faithful companion and our
good friend survive for many happy years.
Wn. H. DAtt.
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES*
By SamMurEL FRANKLIN Emmons,
U. S. Geological Survey
INTRODUCTION
Alaska was first visited by a Russian expedition under Bering
in 1741. In 1799 the territory was granted to a Russo-American
fur company. by the Emperor Paul VIII, and in 1839 the charter
was renewed for twenty-four years. In 1867 it was ceded to the
United States for a money payment of $7,200,000. The first
mining excitement in the interior was in the Cassiar mining
district in British Columbia around Dease lake, near the head
of the Stikine river, from 1871 to 1887. Later, prospectors found
their way into the more northern regions and down the valley
of the Yukon into American territory, where they discovered
valuable placers on Birch creek, Mission creek, and Fortymile
creek, small southern tributaries of the Yukon. In the autumn
*This paper, published with the permission of the Director of the U. S. Geological
Survey, is an abstract of a pamphlet prepared by his direction to accompany a map of
Alaska, and giving such information, compiled from data in the possession of the Sur-
vey, as it was thought would prove useful to the traveter or prospector who might visit
that region.
140 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
of 1896 still richer discoveries were made a short distance east
of the boundary, along the Klondike river, and a great rush of
miners to these now famous diggings set in the following spring.
Accurate data with regard to the geography of Alaska it is as
yet difficult to obtain. The immediate coast-line and the many
islands which border it have been mapped by the United States
Coast and Geodetic Survey, and the course of the great Yukon
river, comparable in size to the Mississippi, was determined by
the Western Union Telegraph Company’s expedition in 1867
and by an expedition in 1869 under Lieut. C. W. Raymond, of
the United States Engineers. What other information has been
obtained with regard to the interior is derived from route and
sketch maps made by individual explorers, who generally fol-
lowed the valleys of the larger streams. Vast tracts of mountain
land between these streams are yet practically unknown.
Ketchum and Lebarge, of the Western Union Telegraph ex-
pedition, were apparently the first white men to traverse the
entire length of the Yukon river. They traveled on ice and
snow from St Michael to Fort Yukon in the winter of 1866-67,
and in the following summer made their way to Fort Selkirk
and back, joining on their return W. H. Dall, who had charge
of the scientific work of the expedition, and who, with Frederick
Whymper, had ascended to that point by water. In later years
scientific explorations of the interior have been made by mem-
bers of the Canadian and of the United States Geological Sur-
veys. In 1887 Dawson and McConnell, of the Canadian Survey,
ascended the Stikine to the Liard, the former going northwest-
ward by the Frances and Pelly to Fort Selkirk, the latter descend-
ing the Liard to the Mackenzie and the following season crossing
from the Mackenzie to Fort Yukon by the Porcupine river and
ascending the Yukon to its southwestern sources. William Ogil-
vie, of the same corps, entered the Yukon district in 1887 and
has been there most of the time since, engaged in route and
boundary surveys. In 1889 I. C. Russell, of the United States
Geological Survey, in company with a boundary party of the
Coast Survey, ascended the Yukon river from its mouth to the
head of boat navigation, coming out over the Chilkoot pass. In
1890, under the auspices of the National Geographic Society,
Itussell explored the Mt St Klas region from Yakutat bay. In
1891 C. W. Hayes, of the United States Geological Survey, ac-
companied Schwatka’s expedition up the White, across Scoloi
pass, and down the Copper river. In thesummer of 1895 G. F.
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 141
Becker and W. H. Dall, under orders of the Director of the
United States Geological Survey, made examinations of the
coastal regions with reference to gold and coal, and in 1896 J. E.
Spurr, assisted by H. B. Goodrich and F. C. Schrader, made a
reconnaissance of the gold-bearing rocks of the Yukon district.
It is from the reports of these later explorers that the data con-
tained in the following pages have been compiled.
GEOGRAPHICAL SKETCH
Alaska has an area of 580,107 square miles. Itis roughly quad-
rangular in outline, with a panhandle extension in the southeast
along the coast and a peninsula stretching out into the ocean on
the southwest, which continues in the chain of the Aleutian
islands that separate Bering sea from the Pacific ocean. Its
eastern boundary is formed by the 141st meridian of longitude
west from Greenwich, and the westernmost portion of its main-
land, Cape Prince of Wales, is on the 168th meridian, or within
54 miles of the easternmost point of Asia. In latitude it extends
from 54° 40’, the southern point of Prince of Wales island, to
Point Barrow, in 71° 23’ north latitude, far within the Arctic
circle. Its greatest extent in a north-south line is thus 1,100
miles, and from east to west 800 miles.
The coast-line is much broken by arms of the sea, reaching far
inland, either as open bays, as sounds or submerged river val-
leys, or as fiord-likeinlets. The coast abounds in islands, which
cover an aggregate area of 31,205 square miles and which as a
rule are very mountainous. The chain of the Aleutian islands,
reaching nearly 1,500 miles into the Pacific ocean, is largely of
eruptive origin and contains many volcanic craters, some of
which are yetactive. They rise very abruptly from the sea, often
to an elevation of several thousand feet, one on Unimak island
reaching a height of 8,955 feet.
The Alexander archipelago and the adjoining coast strip, the
best-known and most frequented part of the Territory, resemble
the submerged portion of a narrow and precipitous mountain
system. The archipelago consists of 1,100 islands, the largest
and most southern of which is Prince of Walesisland. It is in-
tersected by deep and relatively narrow waterways, which often
run far inland and bear evidence of previous occupation by gla-
ciers. In some cases, as at Glacier bay, enormous living glaciers
are found at their head. The islands themselves are steep-sided,
and rise to an average elevation of 2,500 feet. On the seaward
142 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
side of Baranof island, one of the outer tier, on which Sitka is
situated, is a volcanic crater, called Mount Edgecumbe, 2,855 feet
high. Further northwestward, forming part of the same moun-
tain line, the St Hlas range, which follows the immediate coast,
contains many high mountains, and culminates to the north in
Mount St Elias at an elevation of 18,024 feet. Mount Logan,
further inland, is supposed to be still higher, and explorers report
that far in the interior, between Copper river and the Lower
Yukon, there is a group of mountains;extending in the same
eeneral direction, of equal or perhaps even greater elevation, the
highest point of which has been designated Mount McKinley.
A second line of elevation is supposed to extend southwestward
from near the head of Copper river, following the coast-line in
the direction of the Alaskan peninsula.
The rivers entering into the waters of the Alexander archi-
pelago are generally short, and only two, the Stikine and the
Taku, are known to head beyond the crest of the mountains im-
mediately adjoining the coast. The Chilkat river is a consider-
able and rapid stream, entering the head of Lynn canal from the
northwest; it is probably less than 100 miles in length. The
next river northward is the Alsek, about which little is known,
but it is supposed to head on the east side of the St Elias range,
in the vicinity of Mount Logan.
Copper river is a larger stream than any of those thus far men-
tioned, and heads in a mountainous country, containing several
high peaks with an estimated elevation of 12,000 to 18,000 feet,
and little known, except by the Indians. Rolled masses of native
copper, of which their knives were made, were obtained some-
where in this region. A northwestern branch of this stream is
said to head between the Sushitna and the Tanana rivers, pos-
sibly in the lake which on the map is represented as being
drained by the Sushitna. The Sushitna also is an important
stream, emptying into the head of Cook inlet, very wide and diffi-
cult of navigation near its mouth owing to the great rise and fall
of the tide. Its sources are in a high mountainous region, a main
northwestern branch being supposed to head near Mount Mc-
Kinley.
The next large river, the Kuskokwim, is the second largest in
the Territory, its length being estimated at over 600 miles. It
drains a mountainous region difficult of access. The Russians
ascended it in boats as far as the Redoubt Kolmakof or crossed
from the Yukon by a portage near Oknagamut. The currents
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 143
of the lower stream are rapid. A winter route was also used
from Fort Alexander up the Nushagak and down the Chulitna ;
in summer the morasses along this route may not be passable.
Beyond Norton sound, into which empties the great Yukon,
that drains the whole interior region, the principal streams of
known importance are the Kowak and the Noatak, which flow
into Kotzebue sound. The Colville river, which empties into
the Arctic ocean, is supposed to head in the same general region
as the two just mentioned.
The Yukon river has an estimated length of 2,000 miles, of
which three-fourths is continuously navigable for river steamers.
It empties into Norton sound through a wide delta in four prin-
cipal mouths 50 to 64 miles in length. For about a hundred
miles above the delta it has a general northwest course, then
bends at right angles and has a southwest direction up to the
bend at Fort Yukon, just within the Arctic circle. Here it re-
ceives the waters of the Porcupine, a stream having the same
general southwest course and heading near the mouth of the
Mackenzie river. Fort Yukon is distant in a direct line about
650 miles from the mouth of the river. Above this point the
general direction of the river is again northwest, but a short
distance east of the international boundary it turns to a north-
south course, which it maintains for nearly a hundred miles,
through the Upper Ramparts. It is at the bend below this north-
running stretch that the Klondike river enters from the east,
above which, and more or less parallel, are the Indian and Stew-
art rivers, all famous as draining a region phenomenally rich in
gold. Near the upper end of this north-south course the White
river enters in the same direction from the south. Above this
the Yukon resumes its northwest course and maintains it to Fort
Selkirk, which is near the head of navigation. At Fort Selkirk
it splits into two main branches: the Pelly, which drains the
Rocky Mountain regions to the northeast, and the Lewes, which
in several branches drains the region to the southwest and the
many lakes on the eastern side of the Coast ranges.
The principal tributaries of the Yukon from Fort Selkirk to
Fort Yukon are, on the south side, in descending order, White,
Sixtymile, Fortymile, Mission, Seventymile, and Charlie rivers,
and on the north, from Dawson at the mouth of the Klondike
downward, the Chandindu, Tatondu, Tahkandit, and Kandik
rivers. From Fort Yukon to the open country near the mouth
of the river the longer streams coming from the southeast are
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
144
IWUIZDAY AT S
‘
ainigont {0 fisazinoa gr
GAMIGNOIM AHL JO HONVUd V ‘NATUNO OdVUOGTA
NO MG@IA
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 145
Birch creek, Beaver, Tanana, and Nowikakat rivers; from the
north come the Dall, Tozikakat, Melozikakat, and Koyukuk
rivers, the latter one of the largest tributaries and said to be 500
to 600 miles in length.
The Yukon is generally a broad and muddy stream, flowing
with a current of 3 to 9 miles an hour. Occasionally it runs in
a narrow, rocky canyon cut through lava, or across low moun-
tain ranges, and such stretches are locally called “‘ ramparts.”
For the most part, however, its valley is wide, and the stream
often spreads out into many channels with low wooded islands
between, the whole covering a width said to reach 10 miles in
places. Dry spruce is practically the only fuel available for
steamers along the Yukon, and the supply is limited and diffi-
cult to obtain. Although the river is frozen up during eight
months of the year, from October to June, its importance as a
means of transporting supples can hardly be overestimated. In
the early years, when the connection between the upper and
lower portions of the river was not absolutely known, the Hud-
son bay fur-traders were in the habit of taking their peltry from
Fort Selkirk down to the mouth of the Porcupine and up that
stream to the Mackenzie, preferrmg to make this long and cir-
cuitous journey rather than encounter the difficulties of a more
direct route across the mountains to the eastward.
The international boundary between American and Canadian
territory has no relation to the physical structure of the interior
region; hence in this description that portion of British Colum-
bia which les opposite the Alexander archipelago and the coastal
strip of American territory southeast of Mount St Elias will be
considered as part of the general province of Alaska. The known
portions of the interior region, which lie mainly south of the
Arctic circle, belong to the drainage system of the Yukon river.
This stream, with its various tributaries, drains the northwestern
portion of the cordilleran system included between the coast
and the Mackenzie river valley, which are about 700 miles
apart and approximately parallel. The Mackenzie river flows
from Great Slave lake into the Arctic ocean. To one tracing
the broader features of physical structure northwestward from
the United States through British Columbia, it would seem that
the mountainous region between the Yukon and the Mackenzie
represents the Rocky mountains proper, and the Alexander ar-
chipelago and adjoining coast slopes the Coast ranges. The basin
of the Upper Yukon (the river above the great bend) would then
146 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
be the representative of the Great Basin region in the United
States, since north of the 49th parallel the uplift of the Sierra
Nevada has merged with that of the Coast ranges into one gen-
eral system.
The Coast range proper is a broad elevated belt with many
scattered peaks, but not differentiated into continuous ranges.
Oceanward it presents an abrupt, rugged front, cut by fiord-lke
valleys. To the east is a plateau-like region which descends
eradually to the north from an elevation of 5,000 feet in the
upper lake region to 3,000 feet in the lower Lewes and Pelly
river valleys. The river valleys in this stretch often lie 2,000
to 2,500 feet below the general plateau level.
In the interior region the soil is frozen for a large portion of
the year, so that there is comparatively little rock decay. Where
there is no timber the surface is generally covered with an abun-
dant growth of moss. This, wherever the surface material is
sufficiently compact to become impervious to water by freezing,
produces large areas of swampy tracts, even on sloping ground,
which, except in the glaciated regions or when cut through by
large streams, obscure the rock surface and render difficult the
work of the prospector.
The northwestern continental ice-sheet, or cordilleran glacier
of Dawson, which centered in British Columbia between latitudes
55° and 59° N., did not extend in this interior region north of
the 62d parallel, hence the greater part of the Yukon basin has
not been glaciated, except by local glaciers. This fact has been
readily recognized by the geologists who have visited the region in
recent times, and indeed is evident, on inspection of the maps, by
the abundance of lakes above this line and their absence below it.
The Yukon or all-water route—This route is by ocean steamer
from Seattle or San Francisco to St Michael, near the mouth of
the Yukon; thence by river steamboat up the Yukon to Dawson.
The length of this route is about 4,000 miles, it being nearly 2,700
from Seattle to St Michael, and about 1,800 up the Yukon to
Dawson. ‘Those taking this route aim to leave St Michael early
in July, in order to avoid the delays in upstream progress caused
by sand-bars at low stages of water later in the season. The
time from Seattle to St Michael is about twenty days, and that
feom St Michael to Dawson the same, making about forty days
for the trip. Under favorable weather and circumstances it
may be made in less time. Though this route is the one over
which commercial companies operating in the Yukon country
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 147
transport their goods, it is seldom used by miners who wish to
enter in the spring, since at that season it takes several weeks
longer to make the trip by this route than it does to make it by
some of the trails mentioned below. It is, however, highly ad-
vantageous for persons unfitted to rough it on the trails.
The Skagway or White Pass route—From Seattle to Skagway, a
distance of 1,115 miles, the route is by ocean steamer northward
along the coast, and finally up Lynn canal. It is practically a
still-water route, being protected from the swells of the ocean by
an almost continuous barrier of densely wooded islands. The
trip requires about three and one-half days. Skagway is located
on the east side of Dyea inlet,a branch of Lynnecanal. Its popu-
lation, which is much increased by people who have been unable
to get across the trail, is said to be about 8,000. Dyea is situated
four miles north of Skagway, west of the mouth of Dyea river
and at the head of Dyea inlet. The rise and fall of the tide in
this inlet is about 24 feet. At Skagway steamers find good an-
chorage within half a mile of the beach, to which freight is taken
in lighters at high tide, which are unloaded when the tide recedes.
Several newly built wharves are said to be now in practical use,
and the facilities for landing cargoes are greatly superior to those
at Dyea. [from Skagway the trail leads northeastward up the
valley of the Skagway river. crossing the mountains at White
pass and running thence northward to the head of Lake Ben-
nett, whose waters flow into the Yukon. The summit of White
pass is 2,400 feet above sea-level, and its distance from Skagway
is 18miles. For the first four or five miles there is a good wagon
road, which crosses the river several times by ford. At high
stages of water, however, freight must be packed across on foot
bridges. Beyond this are long stretches of very miry and rocky
ground, where a loaded man will sink knee-deep in the mud.
There are also several steep and rough ascents, of which Porcu-
pine hill is the sharpest. The last two miles before reaching the
summit is a steady, hard climb, but presents no cliffs or preci-
pices. Many horses have been killed or have died on this trail.
Seventy-five to 100 pounds make a good load for the ordinary
packer. From the summit to Lake Bennett, 17 miles, the trail
improves, although still bad. It is for the most part gradually
downhill, over an undulating, rocky surface. The timber-line is
reached again at The Meadows, about five miles beyond the pass,
which is the ordinary camping-place. The trail passes the two
small lakes known as Summit and Middle lakes, on which fer-
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
148
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ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 149
riage may be secured when the water is not frozen. Midway
- between the latter and Lake Lindeman, about three miles before
reaching Lake Bennett, the Canadian custom-house officials have
put up a large log cabin, which is used as a place of shelter by
those crossing the trail. Atthis pointa trail branches off to the
right down to Tooshhie lake; but as there are seven miles of im-
passable river between Tooshhieand Tagish lakes,travelers bound
for the Yukon are warned from taking this route. At the head
of Lake Bennett the Skagway joins the Chilkoot trail. The Sk: o-
way trail is somewhat longer than that over the Chilkoot pass,
but the pass is much lower. It requires, however, considerable
improvement in bad and swampy places. This route has been
recently recommended by the United States Quartermaster’s De-
partment of Puget sound.
The Dyea or Chilkoot Pass route. —This trail has been used by the
Indians for generations, and until a year ago was practically the
only route followed by miners and prospectors who entered the
interior. It is the shortest route to the headwaters of the Yukon.
Dyea (or Taiya) is the Indian word, meaning pack or load.
Owing to the extensive shoals at the head of Dyea inlet the con-
ditions for anchorage and discharging cargoes from ocean vessels
are less favorable than at Skagway. They are either unloaded
_by means of lighters or put upon a rocky point about a mile
from the beach, whence they are hauled off in wagons. Dyea
trail runs northeastward up the Dyea river and across the Chil-
koot pass, at an elevation of 3,500 feet, to the head of Lake
Lindeman, a total distance of 283 miles. The summit is 13
miles from Dyea, the first 62 miles following a comparatively
open valley, in which there is a good wagon road. Owing to
the windings of the stream within the walls of the valley the
river must be crossed several times—by fords in summer, by fer-
ries in spring when the water is deep. The trail then enters a
narrow canyon with steep, rocky walls, which it follows to Sheep
camp, at timber line, 42 miles furtheron. Through the canyon
the trail is rouzher, but horses have been successfully used for
several years in packing to Sheep camp. Good camping places
are found all along the route from Dyea to Sheep camp, and at
several points refreshments may be obtained. Sheep camp is
the last camping place on the west side of the range, as from
there on there is no timber or fuel until Deep lake, on the other
slope, 12 miles distant, is reached. From Sheep camp to Scales,
where packs are weighed by the Canadian authorities, a distance
150 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
of 3? miles, the rise is about 1,800 feet. The trail is free from
mud, and traveling is not difficult, though in places the ground
is covered with bowlders. From Scales to the summit of the
pass the ground rises 1,000 feet in a distance of about half a mile,
and masses of broken rock or talus make the climb very dificult,
and impossible for pack animals. The building of an aerial or
wire tramway, with buckets carrying 400 pounds of freight, has
been contemplated for this portion of the route. From the sum-
mit of Chilkoot pass to Lake Lindeman, a distance of 153 miles,
the trail descends first very steeply to a small lake called Crater
lake, and thence more gradually along the drainageway of a
chain of lakes known as Long, Canyon, and Deep lakes, which
are connected with one another and finally with Lake Lindeman
by small streams. Till late in spring the whole of this drain-
ageway is frozen over, and one travels from the summit to Lake
Lindeman by sled. On either side of the pass, especially on the
south, snow sometimes accumulates to a depth of 50 or 60 feet,
forming a sort of névé of limited extent. Late in the season,
when the drainage is open, a ferry sometimes plies on Long lake,
a distance of four miles. From the foot of Lake Lindeman there
is portage past the rapids to the head of Lake Bennett, where
the Dyea and Skagway trails meet.
From the head of Lake Bennett to Dawson, 548 miles, there
is a continuous waterway through lakes and rivers, which may
be followed in summer by boat and in winter on the ice. Long
stretches are navigable by light-draught steamers. Boats may
be procured or built at the head of the lake, but in some respects
the most advantageous method is to start early enough to travel
on the ice as far as the foot of Lake Lebarge, where timber for
boat-building is abundant, as in this way the dangerous passage
of the White Horse rapids is avoided. Lake Bennett is 26 miles
in length. narrow and canyon-like in form, and deep at the
lower end. Fifteen miles below the bend, where the southwest
arm comes in, strong winds often prevail, producing a rough sea
that is dangerous for boats, and parties are often storm-bound
there for several days. A sluggish stream, 23 miles long and
often not more than three feet deep, known as Caribou crossing,
extends from the foot of Lake Bennett to Tagish lake. Thence
there is clear sailing 19 miles down Tagish lake and five miles
along a river deep enough for ordinary river steamers to Marsh
or Mud lake. Marsh lake is 19 miles long and empties into
Fiftymile river, whose current averages three to four miles an
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ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
152 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
hour. About 25 miles down, the river enters Miles canyon, a
chasm about 100 feet wide and five-eighths of a mile long, be-
tween perpendicular walls of basalt 80 to 100 feet high. The
swift, turbulent current carries a boat through this canyon in
about three minutes. For a fair-sized boat, not too heavily
loaded, which is kept under steerageway by one or more good
oarsmen and follows the middle of the stream, so as not to be
dashed against the steep rocks on either side, the passage is quite
practicable. At the foot of the canyon one must keep to the
left until the heavy swells are passed, then turn sharply to the
right and land on the east or right bank. A safer course, which
is followed by many, is to portage one’s load along the right
side of the canyon, over a hill about 200 feet high, and run the
boat through empty.
Three-eighths of a mile below this canyon are rapids about
half a mile long, which, though very rough, are not dangerous.
A half-mile below these are the White Horse rapids, the most
dangerous on the whole river. They are about one-third of a
mile long and are confined between low basaltic walls. Near
their foot the walls close together, forming a chasm only 30 yards
wide, while the bed of the stream drops suddenly, so that the
river rushes wildly through, leaping and foaming in a cataract.
Many boats have passed successfully through, but others have
been swamped, with loss of outfits and sometimes of life. The
safer plan is to portage around the rapids and let the boat down
by line. The portage is on the west shore, but on either side a
tramway could be constructed without great difficulty.
Lake Lebarge, which is 60 miles below the White Horse
rapids, ig 31 miles long and easily navigable by steamers.
There is abundant good timber at its foot. The river below
Lake Lebarge, as far as Fort Selkirk, is known as the Lewes,
and is also navigable for 160 miles, down to the Five Finger
rapids. Here a rock of conglomerate rises up from the river
bottom, forming several islands and backing up the river a
foot or two, so as to produce a strong swell below. Steep cliffs
of the same rock on either bank render a portage at this point
impracticable. With proper steerageway and care, however, an
ordinary boat may run the rapids safely. The right or east side
is followed by most Yukon travelers, but Ogilvie, of the Canadian
Survey, from actual experience pronounces the channel along the
west bank as also passable. For six miles below the Five Fin-
ger rapids the current is swift, and then occur the Rink rapids,
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 153
which extend halfway across the river from the western bank,
producing a decided riffle. On the east side, however, the water
is comparatively smooth and safe. Below this the river is prac-
tically free from rapids and navigation is unimpeded. Fort Sel-
kirk, where the Pelly and Lewes unite to form the Yukon, is 65
miles below. Thence it is about 95 miles to the mouth of White
river, 10 miles further to the mouth of the Stewart, thence 22
miles to Sixtymile river, and 45 miles further to Dawson, at the
mouth of the Klondike.
Dalton or Chilkat Pass route.—This is an overland route follow-
ing a direct course, more or less independent of waterways, from
the head of Chilkat inlet to Fort Selkirk. It has been used by
J. Dalton, a trader, for some time as a pack-train route and for
driving in cattle, but little is definitely known of its geography.
It ascends first the Chilkat and Klahoela rivers, crossing the pass
in 45 miles at an elevation of 3,000 feet and thence descending
into the drainage of the Tahkeena river at Lake Arkell. From
Lake Arkell the trail is said to pass over an undulating plain,
well timbered in the valleys and with grass on the slopes. The
distances from the head of the inlet are given as 75 miles to the
watershed and 100 miles to Dalton’s trading-post; from there
to the Pelly the distance is 200 miles, or 300 miles in all to the
Pelly, and 350 to 400 to Fort Selkirk.
The Stikine route-—By this route one travels by boat from Fort
Wrangell 150 miles up the Stikine river to Telegraph creek, and
thence, a little to the west of north, 150 miles to the head of Tes-
lin lake. The ascent of the Stikine river is tedious and some-
times dangerous, the current being swift and rapids numerous.
It is, however, the route that was followed in former days by
miners going to the Cassiar district. From Telegraph creek to
Teslin lake the trail is said to pass through a gently undulating
and well-timbered country which presents no obstacles to the
building of a railroad. Lake Teslin is said to be about 80 miles
long and bounded on both sides by high mountains. From its
foot down to the Lewes runs the Teslin river, which is navigable
except for two small rapids, one near its head, the other further
down. In its lower course the Teslin spreads out into many
channels, occupying a total width of two or more miles. This
route appears promising, but is as yet only prospective.
The Taku route—This route ascends the Taku inlet and river
and crosses directly to Lake Teslin or Aklen, a distance of 185
miles from Juneau. Thence it is identical with the Stikine route.
u
154 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
By this route one travels by steamer from Juneau 18 miles up
the Taku inlet to the foot of a large glacier, which is often very
dangerous to boats, even at a distance of several miles, by rea-
son of the ice masses that break off from it; then by boat 60
miles up the Taku river to the head of canoe navigation. The
portage which follows is for the first 20 miles through the canyon-
like valley of an eastern branch, then for 50 miles in broad val-
leys of the upper Taku, 3,500 to 5,000 feet above sea-level. For
the last 15 miles the route is in the densely wooded valleys of
Teslin lake, among many small ponds. ‘This route is said to be
not impracticable for a railroad, and a charter for one has al-
ready been granted by the Canadian government. Its merits,
however, have not yet been thoroughly tested. Both this and
the Stikine route have the undoubted advantage of avoiding the
dangerous White Horse rapids.
The Copper River route-—This, the only land route within
American territory, would strike inland from near the mouth of
the Copper river and follow a general northeasterly course to-
ward the Klondike, thus crossing a great mountain range whose
rough topography and many glaciers that fill the valleys and
passes render general travel difficult. Orca, the only settlement
on the coast near by, which is 50 miles beyond the mouth of
Copper river and 700 miles from Sitka, had in 1897 a population
of 22 whites; it is the first post-office west of Sitka. According
to reports of natives, confirmed by Lieutenant Allen, who crossed
over to the Tanana in 1885, the better way is to start inland
from Valdes inlet, on Prince William sound, and, crossing the
Valdes glacier, strike Copper river 180 miles above its mouth,
thus avoiding the gorge and the most dangerous rapids. From
the Copper River basin an advisable route would seem to be over
the Scoloi pass and down White river; but from observations
made by Hayes it appears that the pass, which has an elevation
of over 5,000 feet, is occupied by a glacier 300 to 400 feet thick,
and that White river abounds in rapids too rough for a loaded
boat. I. C. Russell, who visited the Mount St Elias region in
1890 and 1891, reports a mountainous region to the northward
occupied by huge glaciers. This region is to be explored during
the coming summer by parties sent out by the War Department.
GEOLOGICAL SKETCH
Original or Vein Deposits
At present, so far as known, it is only in the coastal region that
deep mining is being carried on in gold-bearing veins. Here it
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 155
has become a well-established industry, and many large quartz
mills are running on the ore extracted from these veins. The
principal deposits of southeast Alaska are found in a belt some-
what over 100 miles in length on the seaward slope of the main-
land, reaching from Sumdum on the southeast past Juneau to
Berners bay near Seward on the northwest. This belt may be
also considered to include the deposits on Admiralty and other
interior islands. A second belt, further west, is represented by
the deposits on the western side of Baranof island, not far from
Sitka. The ores, though not always exceptionally rich, are
worked at a good profit because of the natural facilities of the
revion for cheap reduction. The most notable instance of this
is the great Alaska-Treadwell mine, which has extracted over
seven million dollars’ worth of gold from an ore carrying $3.20
a ton, which is worked at an average cost of $1.85. Such condi-
tions can not be expected to obtain in the interior.
These deposits occur in metamorphic slates, diabases, and
granites, all similar to the rocks of the auriferous belt of Cali-
fornia, and probably, like those, they are of post-Jurassic age.
Owing to the dense covering of living and fallen forest trees in
this region, prospecting is extremely difficult, and it is probable
that future exploration will prove the extent of these gold belts
to be much greater than at present appears. The gold-bearing
beach sands from Lituya bay to Yakutat bay, along the west foot
of the St Elias range, and the placers at the head of Cook inlet,
around Turnagain arm and on the Kaknu river, may have been
derived from the wearing down of rocks of similar age and com-
position in the St Elias range and on the Kenai peninsula.
At Uyak bay, on Kadiak island, gold deposits in slates are
being worked, and the gold-bearing beach sands of the western
end of that island and at Portage bay and the Ayakulik river on
the neighboring mainland are apparently derived from meta-
morphic slates associated with granite, so that it is possible that
these more recent gold-bearing rocks extend that far westward.
On Unga island, of the Shumagin group, still further west, gold
occurs in eruptive andesites of Tertiary age, and mines have been
opened on these deposits, the most important of which is the.
Apollo, one of the most successful in the province. As the Alaska
peninsula and the Aleutian islands are largely made up of recent
eruptive rocks, this isan important indication, showing the pos-
sibility of the occurrence of valuable deposits in such roeks.
In the Yukon basin the gold, so far as known at present, is de-
156 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
rived from a much older series of rocks, for the gold-bearing
slates of the coastal region have not yet been recognized there.
While the exact age of these gold-bearing rocks has not yet been
determined, they are known to be older than the limestones sup-
posed to represent the Carboniferous and Devonian formations
of the cordilleran system ; hence they are probably pre-Paleozoic,
and in part are possibly as old as the Archean. The grounds
for assuming this derivation are that these rocks contain abun-
dant auriferous quartz veins, and that the richest placers thus far
discovered are so situated that they must have been derived from
them. These rocks are classified by Spurr as follows, commenc-
ing at the base:
Basal granite-schist—This, so far as known, is the fundamental
rock formation of the region. The granite has characteristically
a somewhat schistose or gneissic structure, thus showing evidence
of having been subjected to dynamic action or intense compres-
sion, and it may pass into a gneiss, or even a mica-schist, where
this action has been most energetic. On the other hand, it is
sometimes massive, Showing no parallel structure planes, and
then is with difficulty distinguishable from the massive younger
granites, which are also of frequent occurrence in the region in
the form of dikes and intrusive masses cutting across older rocks.
As distinguished from the granites of the coastal region, which
are intrusive, these older granites are generally of reddish color
and crumbly nature, while the later ones are dark gray from the
abundance of hornblende as a constituent mineral.
Birch Creek series.—Resting unon the fundamental granite is
a series of rocks, roughly estimated as possibly 25,000 feet in
thickness, named the Birch creek series, from the place of their
typical occurrence. ‘They consist mainly of quartzitic rocks,
generally thin-bedded or schistose, so that they pass into mica-
schists; in some places they contain carbonaceous matter and
develop graphitic schists. There are also bands which probably:
originated as intrusive rocks, but which by compression have
become schistose like the other members. These rocks have
abundant quartz veins; they are generally parallel to the schis-
tosity or bedding, small and not persistent, but some cross the
bedding and are then wider. ‘They carry gold with abundant
pyrites, and sometimes galena. They are often broken and
faulted.
Fortymile series.—Younger than the Birch creek series, but in
general closely associated therewith, is another thick series of
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 157
rocks, called the Fortymile series, because of their development
on Fortymile creek. They are characterized by alternations of
beds of marble, from a few inches up to 50 feet in thickness,
with quartzitic and other schists, which may be micaceous, horn-
blendic, or garnetiferous, and sometimes graphitic. ‘They are
traversed by abundant dikes of eruptive rock, mostly granites
and diorites. Two sets of quartz veins are developed in these
rocks: (1) an older set, which are generally parallel to the
schistosity or lamination, like those in the Birch creek series,
and like them are broken by later movements and carry pyrite
and occasionally galena; (2) aset of larger veins, which form an
apparent transition from dikes of aplite, a rock consisting of
quartz and feldspar. They cut across the bedding and are not
disturbed by later rock movements, hence are younger in age.
Rampart series— This still later series is primarily distin-
guished from the preceding by the darker color of its rocks,
which are dark green when fresh and become a dark red by
weathering. They consist largely of basic eruptive materials,
beds of diabase and tuffaceous sediments, with hard green shales
and some limestones containing glauconite, or green silicate of
iron. They also contain novaculites, or fine-grained quartzitic
slates, and jasperoids, or iron-stained quartzose rocks. Serpen-
tine and chlorite, noticeable by their softness and green color,
are frequent alteration products. These rocks also contain a
few quartz and calcite veins, which are generally developed
along shear zones, or places where by rock movement and com-
pression a series of closely appressed parallel fractures are devel-
oped. ‘The basic character of these rocks and their large content
of pyrite seem favorable to the concentration of ore deposits ;
they present, moreover, certain analogies, both in composition
and in geologic position, with the copper-bearing rocks of Lake
Superior. But the observed veins are younger than the joints
and shear planes, which were probably produced by the rock
movements that crushed the veins of the older series, and assays
of their ores have as yet shown but insignificant amounts of gold
and silver. These veins, as well as those in the granite, are,
moreover, much less abundant than those in the Birch creek
and Tortymile series; hence it is thought that the latter are
probably the principal source of gold in the placers.
The younger rock series noted are, briefly, the following:
Tahkandit series.—This consists of limestones, sometimes white
and crystalline, generally green or black, alternating with shales.
158 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
In certain localities, notably on the Tahkandit river, it has con-
elomerates carrying greenish pebbles supposed to be derived
from the rocks of the Rampart series. In the beds of this series
have been found fossils of Carboniferous age and plants of De-
vonian aspect.
Mission Creek series.—Later than the Tahkandit series, but, like
it, not very well defined, is the Mission creek series, consisting
of shales and thin-bedded limestones with gray sandstones. Lo-
cally there are thin beds of impure lignite and at the base a con-
elomerate (‘cement rock ” of the miners) containing pebbles not
completely rounded derived from older rocks in the neighbor-
hood, which sometimes carries gold. The beds of this series are
sometimes altered and sharply upturned and folded, but gener-
ally have a rather fresh appearance. In the neighborhood of
shear zones they are impregnated with pyrite and carry small
quartz veins. The limited exploration of these rocks has devel-
oped no important deposits of mineral. The age of the beds is
as yet uncertain, but they are in part as late as Cretaceous.
Kenai series—Next above the Mission creek rocks, and not
always readily distinguishable from them, is a great thickness
of rather loosely consolidated conglomerates, shales, and sand-
stones, generally greenish in color, which are the coal-bearing
rocks of the region ; they everywhere contain plant remains and
rest unconformably upon the older rocks. They have, however,
been folded to a certain extent, and stand upturned at angeles of
20° to 60°. They are supposed to be of Kocene-Tertiary age.
Later Tertiary beds.—Other and more recent Tertiary beds have
been observed generally in the more open country of the Lower
Yukon, which have lhttle economic importance, though they
sometimes contain thin hgniticseams. They are variously known
from the localities where they have been observed, as the Nulato
sandstones and the Twelvemile and Porcupine beds, the two
last named being assumed to belong to the same series.
The more recent formations, silts and gravels, will be consid-
ered under the heading “ Detrital or placer deposits.”
DISTRIBUTION OF GOLD-BEARING ROCK FORMATIONS
The most definite facts with regard to the occurrence of the
gold-bearing formations, the Birch creek, Fortymile, and Ram-
part series described above, were obtained by the reconnaissance
made by members of the United States Geological Survey in the
summer of 1896, under the charge of J. E. Spurr, in the Amer-
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 159
ican portion of the Yukon district, and the exposures of these
rocks as shown on the maps of his report have been indicated
in colors on the accompanying map. Data gathered by earlier
geologists, notably those of the Canadian Survey and of C. W.
Hayes and I. C. Russell, of the United States Geological Survey,
have provided suggestions as to the extent of these rocks in out-
side areas, but the reader need only bear in mind the enormous
area, the difficulties of exploration, and the want of accurate
maps of the region, to realize that generalization must as yet be
very tentative and lable to future change.
As shown by the map, the belt in which these rocks have
been found extends about 500 miles in a general northwest-
southeast direction. but there are indications that the actual
extent of these exposures may be twice as great.
The best-known exposures of these rocks occur along the north-
eastern flanks of a broad belt of fundamental granites and crys-
talline schists, which apparently form the central nucleus or
backbone upon which they rest. This belt is known in a gen-
eral way to extend up the Tanana river from near its mouth
southeastward across the White river below the Donjek. Inthe
latter region C. W. Hayes reports quartzites and limestones re-
sembling the Birch creek and Fortymile series on the southern
flanks of the granite, but the width of the belt, and whether
there is any considerable extent of the gold-bearing formations
along its southern flanks, is as yet unknown. It may not im-
probably extend into the high range south of Tanana, of which
Mount McKinley is the culminating point and in which the
Kuskokwim and Sushitna rivers of western Alaska take their
rise, for from the reports of Moravian missionaries and of the
traveler Dickey it appears that gold occurs in the sands of each
ofthese streams. To the westward the granite backbone appears
to pitch gently downward, as its surface area narrows, and no
exposures are known west of the Yukon river. It is probably
not a continuous mass of granite on the surface, but contains
smaller areas of the later rocks folded in with it. East of the
international boundary the area in which the granite occurs ap-
parently widens, but its exposures are less continuous, the over-
lying rocks not yet having been worn away. One granitic axis
appears to extend eastward from the Fortymile district through
the Klondike rezion in a nearly east-west direction, which is
that of the prevailing strike of the sedimentary rocks. The
Canadian geologists report a second granite axis on the Dease
s
160 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
river just below Dease lake. which may belong to the older
granites, though they do not make the same distinction that
Spurr does between the older granites and the later intrusive
rocks.
Rocks of the various gold-bearing series above the granite are
reported at the following localities: Their first appearance, to
one ascending the Yukon from the sea, is near the mouth of the
Nowikakat. From here up to the Tanana river, rocks of the
Birch creek series outcrop frequently along the river, when not
concealed by Tertiary sandstones and conglomerates, and the
range of low mountains on the north side and parallel to the
river is probably formed of these and Fortymile rocks. About
three miles above the mouth of the Tanana, granite is exposed
on an island in the Yukon, and 12 miles higher calcareous
quartzitic schists of the Fortymile series appear under the Ter-
tiary conglomerates. From the mouth of the Tanana up to
Fort Hamlin, at the lower end of the Yukon flats, the river
runs in a canyon-like channel, known as the Lower Ramparts,
cut through a low range of mountains, which consist principally
of the dark greenish and reddish rocks of the Rampart series, ex-
cept where these are buried under Tertiary conglomerates. The
latter rocks occur immediately above the exposures of Fortymile
rocks, and again from Mynook creek up beyond the mouth of
Hess creek. Higher up on these streams the Rampart rocks come
to the surface, and the Fortymile rocks are supposed to be un-
covered at their very heads. Between the two areas of Tertiary
rocks the Rampart rocks occupy a belt 15 to 20 miles wide along
the river, and are cut by great dikes of intrusive granite.
From Fort Hamlin up to near Circle City, a distance, neglect-
ing curves, of about 200 miles, the river flows through a perfectly
flat region covered by fine silts and gravels, known as the Yukon
flats, in which no outcrops of solid rock have been observed. In
the Birch creek district, around the headwaters of Birch creek
and southwest of Circle City, the Birch creek series occupy a
broad area; their general strike is east and west, curving at
either end to the northward, and the prevailing dip is between
5° and 30° tothe south. There is, however, evidence of a north-
ern dip as well, and the Fortymile schists and marbles rest upon
them along the trail to Circle City. Marbles, probably belong-
ing to the Fortymile series, are also reported in the hills between
Birch creek and the Tanana to the southward.
At the crossing of Birch creek by the trail from Circle City and
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 161
along the Yukon river for 30 or 40 miles above the Yukon flats,
rocks with the characteristic dark coloring of the Rampart series
are exposed. From these up to the mouth of Mission creek rocks
of the Tahkandit, Mission creek, and Kenai series occupy the
banks of the river. On Mission creek itself only these later for-
mations are found, but the gold in the gravels is supposed to come
from the conglomerates (“cement rock”) of the Mission creek
series, which contain pebbles of the older rocks. On American
creek, the main branch of Mission creek which comes in from the
south, the dark rocks, shales, limestones, and tuffaceous beds
which form the bed-rock are supposed to belong to the Rampart
series, which also occur along the Yukon river from five to ten
miles above Mission creek to within 25 miles of the mouth of
Fortymile creek. Above this to some distance above Fortymile
creek the river runs in beds of the Mission creek series.
It is in the Fortymile district and the adjoining mining district,
on tributaries of Sixtymile creek,that the relations of the different
gold-bearing series are best seen. Here there is an east-west axis
or backbone running parallel to the upper part of Fortymile
creek and along the divide between it and Sixtymile creek, with
quartzite schists of the Birch creek series resting immediately on
it, both to the north and to the south. Above these, on either
side, are the marbles and alternating schists of the Fortymile
series. Fortymile creek below the forks runs for a considerable
part of its course along the junction between these two series, on
the northern flank of the anticline. Dikes of various eruptive
rocks, including intrusive granite, are very abundant, especially
on the South fork. On the upper part of this fork are green tuffs
and slates of the Rampart series, overlain unconformably by con-
eglomerates, sandstones, and coaly shales of the Mission creek
series. Both the South fork and Sixtymile creek are supposed
to head in a backbone of granite around Sixtymile butte, which
is surrounded by quartzite schists of the Birch creek series.
These regions lie partly in American, partly in Canadian territory.
The Canadian area has not been studied by American geol-
ogists, except in wayside observation along such routes of travel
as necessarily lay through it. The Canadian geologists, on the
other hand, did not in their earlier and published observations
recognize any subdivisions in the older rocks such as have been
made by Spurr. Hence it is not possible to attempt even a prox-
imate outline of the Canadian gold-bearing rock formations.
General geological data and local discoveries of gold-bearing
162 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
gravels indicate that the gold-bearing area is very large, and may
be roughly defined as reaching from Dease river to the bound-
ary, with a width of 200 to 3800 miles or more. The recent enor-
mously rich discoveries have, however, been confined to a more
limited area around the Klondike and Stewart river districts,
over which it has been possible to extend, with a reasonable de-
gree of probability, the colors indicated on the map for adjoin-
ing American areas. Thus it is assumed that the east-west uplift
of fundamental granite and overlying rocks extends eastward
into the Klondike district, and that a second uplift in a south-
easterly direction extends from upper Fortymile creek toward
the valley of Stewart river. }
Spurr noted outcrops of the schistose quartzites of the Birch
creek series for a large part of the distance from the mouth of
Fortymile creek up to the junction of the Pelly and the Lewes
at Fort Selkirk ; also granites at various points, in some cases
schistose like the fundamental granite, in others fresh and mass-
ive like intrusive granite. There were also occasional belts of
marble belonging to the Fortymile series, notably one five or six
miles above the mouth of Sixtymile creek, not far from that of
Stewart river. These observations afford a rough section across
the belt of crystalline schists mentioned by the Canadian geol-
ogists as stretching eastward and southeastward along the upper
Pelly and adjoining streams and across to the Frances river.
Along the eastern edge of the crystalline belt they also recognized
rocks of a general greenish color, made up largely of altered vol-
canic rocks, which would answer to the description of the Ram-.
part series. Similar rocks were also noted at various points on
the Lewes above its junction with the Pelly, notably in the Sem-
inow hills near the Big Salmon river, which may represent the
development of the Rampart series on the south flanks of the
crystalline belt.
PLACER OR DETRITAL DEPOSITS
The extraordinarily rich placer deposits of the gulches tribu-
tary to the Klondike river above Dawson, and of similar gulches
of the nearby Indian creek and Stewart river, have been so re-
cently opened that no detailed geological description of these
localities has yet been received. In his report, however, Spurr
had shown that the strike of the gold-bearing rocks in the Forty-
mile district and the exposures observed along the Yukon indi-
cated that their gold must have been derived from the same
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 163
gold-bearing formations that had furnished the richest placers
in the districts visited by him. A brief statement of the prom-
inent characteristics of these districts as given by him will there-
fore probably be of value.
The hills surrounding the gulches of the Little Mynook and
Hunter creeks, on the Lower Yukon, are formed of rocks of the
Rampart series. The bed-rocks are of diabase, tuffs, impure
shales, and quartzites, and in the bottoms of the gulches there
is from 10 to 20 feet of gravel. The gravel consists in part of
angular fragments of rocks that form the walls of the gulch, in
part of waterworn pebbles of Birch creek schist, schistose granite,
and otherrocks. The goldis generally in rounded, bean-shaped
erains and nuggets, and less frequently in unworn particles.
This points to a two-fold origin of the gold, as derived in part
from the rocks immediately about and in-part from distant and
older rocks, which may have been worn down, possibly along an
old seashore, into terrace gravels, and then by subsequent erosion
brought into the present stream beds. Further exploration in the
hills to the south may disclose the true source of these pebbles
and of the gold that accompanies them. On American creek,
in the Mission creek district, the gold-bearing placers are also
derived from rocks of the Rampart series—quartzitic schists, ser-
pentines, and chloritic rocks—and the gold is said by Spurr to
have been derived mainly from the schistose zones in the bed-
rock.
The richest gravels have been found in the Birch creek and
Fortymile districts. In the entire Birch creek district, which
les south of Circle City, and on Miller, Glacier, Poker, and Davis
creeks of the Fortymile district, near the international boundary,
the bed-rocks are always the quartzite-schists of the Birch creek
series, containing veins of quartz. The gravels rest, as a rule,
directly on the schist, though in some eases, as on Harrison and
Hagle creeks, in the Birch creek district, there is clay beneath
the gravels, and the gold, as a rule, does not extend into the bed-
rock, but occurs chiefly at the top of the clay. Generally, how-
ever, the schist is rotted and reddened from oxidation for a few
inches to several feet below the surface, and in this part the gold
has settled into the cracks and joints. The pay gravels lie
mostly next the bed-rock,in an average thickness of perhaps
two feet, though sometimes up to ten feet, while the overlying
gravels average eight or ten feet, with a maximum of 25 feet. In
the gravels the schist is in quite large, flat fragments, and the
i64 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
quartz is in bowlders of varying size. The schist fragments lie
flat, and are mixed with sand, showing that the sorting action
of running water has not been carried far. In the concentrates
from the sluice-boxes the heavier minerals associated with the
gold—galena, magnetite, limonite, hornblende, and garnet—are
in each case such as are found in the neighboring schists, and
the nuggets of gold often have pieces of quartz still adhering to
them. All these facts are evidence that the gold is derived from
rocks in the vicinity and is not brought from a great distance,
perhaps by glaciers, as some erroneously suppose.
The rocks of the Fortymile series in the Fortymile district, as
already stated, form the west bank of Fortymile creek, and south
of the South fork cross the divide between Franklin gulch and
Napoleon creek, where they are overlain by green slates of the
Rampart series, which in turn are overlain by conglomerates of
the Mission creek series. In Franklin creek the bed-rocks are
marbles interbedded with mica and hornblende schists; the
gravel contains fragments of marble, quartzite, mica-schists, and
vein quartz. Atone pointa quartz vein is found in the bed-rock,
and below it native silver has been found in the gravels, which
apparently came from this vein. It is the schistose rocks that
mostly carry the gold, as the marbles do not show much evidence
of veins. In this gulch are two levels; the higher one, at the head
of the gulch, had not been worked, while the pay gold had been
found mainly at the lower level, near the mouth of the gulch.
Chicken creek, so called because its gold occurs in grains the
size of chicken feed, drains a wide area toward the Ketchumstock
hills to the southwest, and the actual source of the gold is less
readily defined. The gravel contains fragments of granite, quart-
zite, schist, and marble.
On Napoleon creek conglomerate forms the bed-rock near the
mouth. Thegravels contain fragments of quartzite, vein quartz,
hornblende-granite, and various eruptive rocks, and the source
of the gold is assumed to be the conglomerate, which is made up
of fragments of the older rocks, for the rocks higher up the gulch
above the conglomerates have not been found to carry much gold.
The most trustworthy reports from the Klondike region indi-
cate that the exceptionally rich placer gravels thus far found
occur in side valleys entering the main Klondike valley from
the south, such as Bonanza, Eldorado, and Hunker creeks, and
in some gulches across the divide tributary to Indian or Stewart
rivers. No gold in paying quantities had been found on the
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 165
Klondike itself. The placer deposit generally consists of 10 to
15 feet of frozen muck and decayed vegetation at the surface,
then a gravel bed that rarely pays; below that a clay selvage,
under which is pay dirt, from one to five feet in thickness, rest-
ing on the upturned edges of the schist, from which it is separated
by a clay selvage. ‘The pay streak or bottom of the old channel
is usually very regular and straight, not following the bends of
the present stream; it is said to average 60 cents to the pan,
and may yield $1 to $3. Only very exceptionally rich gravel
can be worked at all under present conditions.
Other detrital deposits—Besides the placer gravels above de-
scribed, there are other detrital deposits that may carry gold,
some of which are known to occur in the Yukon district, but
have not as vet been extensively worked. In the larger streams
accumulations of gravel and sand are made in places of slack-
ening current, such as the inner side of curves, or at points where
considerable coarse material is brought into the main stream by
more rapid tributaries ; such accumulations are called ‘ bars,”
and often contain much gold. In some cases the entire mass of
sand and gravel ina river bed contains enough gold to be worked
at a profit by mechanical processes. There must necessarily be
a large amount of gold in the bars of the Yukon and its tribu-
taries, but whether they are rich enough to be profitably worked
under existing conditions has not yet been proved.
Another common form of detrital deposit is the fine “ silts,”
which often cover wide areas. The most notable instance is what
is called the Yukon flats, which extend for a hundred miles or
more above and below the great bend of the river at Fort Yukon
and a considerable distance up the Porcupine, thus covering an
area perhaps 100 by 200 miles in extent. Similar flats, but of
more moderate dimensions, occur at various points along the
lower course of the river, generally in the concave sides of curves.
These silts are being deposited at the present day in the annual
floods when the river waters cover such wide areas that their
movement becomes as sluggish as those of a lake. There are,
however, similar beds of silt of like appearance and constitution
at altitudes of several hundred feet above the present stream,
which are of widespread occurrence not only in the lower Yukon
country but in the plateau region of British Columbia. The
latter have been designated white silts by Dr Dawson, who con-
siders that they were laid down in fiords connecting with the
sea, their material being furnished by the grinding of the re-
166 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
treating cordilleran glacier. These ancient silts and the benches
or terraces that fringe the mountains all over the interior of
Alaska up to 5,000 feet above the present sea-level point to a
comparatively recent submergence of the country to this amount.
The American geologists are inclined, however, to attribute a
lacustrine origin to part at least of these silts. The absence of
marine fossils in them is admitted by Dr Dawson to be negative
evidence against their marine origin. From an economic point
of view, these silts are of little importance, however, as the gold
contained in them would be so finely divided that it probably
could not be extracted at a profit.
It is otherwise, however, with the terrace gravels, which are also
very widespread throughout the interior. When these occur at
moderate heights above the present streams and evidently rep-
resent earlier stages in the cutting down of their valleys, they
may naturally be expected and indeed are often found to con-
tain considerable gold, which it may pay to extract. In the
Cassiar mining district quite a large proportion of the gold was
derived from terrace gravels. The higher terraces, which are
not confined to present valleys, but cross divides and sometimes
form plateaus, must have been worn down or redistributed by
broader bodies of water, which would be less likely to concen-
trate the gold than river waters. They have already been ob-
served at 1,500 feet elevation, and if the hypothesis of submer-
gence expressed above is correct, should be found up to 3,000
feet; they are probably of little economic importance.
Ancient river gravels that have been protected from erosion
by a covering of recent lava have not yet been noted in the
Yukon valley, though recent flows of basaltic lava occur at vari-
ous points from the lake region of the Lewes river down to St
Michael island, 60 miles north of the mouth of the Yukon. In
the Upper Stikine valley such an old river channel, in which
auriferous gravels had been protected by a recent flow of basalt,
is cut through by the modern stream and has caused a notable
enrichment of its bars immediately below. Itis a question, how-
ever, whether modern erosion in the Yukon valley is sufficiently
deep and active to expose such channelsif they do exist there.
Another source of gold, which occupies an intermediate posi-
tion between original and detrital deposits, is what is generally
known as fossil placers or conglomerate beds, within a geological
rock formation which is made up of material resulting from the
wearing down, generally on an old shore line, of older gold-bear-
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 167
ing rocks. Such conglomerates have been observed in both the
Mission creek and Kenai series of beds, and if future study shows
them to have been formed under favorable conditions they may
prove to bean important source of gold. According to MrSpurr’s
observation, the modern placers of Napoleon creek in the Forty-
mile district, have been enriched by gold derived from the basal
conglomerate of the Mission creek series, which is made up of
materials derived from the Birch creek, Fortymile, and Ram-
part series.
PROBABLE EXTENT OF GOLD-BEARING DEPOSITS
In a new country gold is first sought in the stream gravels, and
thence traced up to its source. Very fine gold may be carried
long distances by river waters ; hence it is only when it becomes
relatively coarse, or at any rate carries coarse particles, that the
source may be considered necessarily near at hand. Fine gold
is found in almost all the rivers of Alaska, even the silts of the
Yukon yield it in places. Gold has been found along the whole
length of the Lewes, the Teslin, the Big Salmon, the Pelly, the
Stewart, and the Selwyn, and on the Yukon river almost con-
tinuously from the junction of the Lewes and Pelly downward.
Still further east, Frances and Dease rivers, the main branches
of Liard river, which flows into the Mackenzie, carry gold. In
the Cassiar district, on the Dease river, gold was discovered as
early as $861. ‘The district was actively worked as a placer camp
from 1878 to 1887, during which time it yielded about five mil-
hon dollars’ worth of gold dust. These upper regions are dis-
tant about 1,000 miles in a straight line from the known outcrops
of gold-bearing rocks in the Rampart mountains on the Lower
Yukon, and are within areas either in which exposures of the
gold-bearing rocks as defined above are actually known to exist
or in which the similar lithological character of rocks described
renders it probable that in some part of the area they may be
exposed.
There is also some evidence of the extension of rocks of the
gold-bearing series to the northwest of the Lower Yukon, though
it is as yet impossible to determine whether the primitive gold-
bearing rocks of the Birch creek and Fortymile series there come
to the surface, or whether it is simply the fossil placers or gold-
bearing conglomerates of-later formations, where made up of
fragments of these older rocks, that have furnished the gold of
modern streams.
168 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
In this region gold has been found extensively along the
Koyukuk, and most abundantly, as already mentioned, where
the valley cuts through conglomerates supposed to belong to the
Kenai series. This is at the forks, about 300 miles above the
mouth, below which the country is low and swampy ; above
the forks the mountains close in and the sides of the valleys be-
come precipitous. The gold in the bars is said to be coarse, sug-
gesting nearness to the source, and has yielded as much as $100
per day by use of the rocker. Prospectors are said to have ex-
plored to considerable distances above the forks, up to 500 miles
from the mouth, and to have recognized rocks similar to those
of the Birch creek and Fortymile districts. This, if true, is 1m-
portant as an indication of still further extensions of the area of
exposures of the older gold-bearing rocks.
Further east, at the head of Dall river, low, broken hills, ap-
parently composed of schists and quartzose rocks, extend north-
eastward to the Romanzof mountains. The latter are snow-
covered in summer, and form the northern boundary of a low
plain that lies to the north of Porcupine river ; these mountains
are likewise said to be made up of metamorphic schist and
quartzites.
Still further northwest, in the country to the northeast of
Kotzebue sound, gold has been reported from the Kowak and
Noatak rivers. It is possible that the older series of rocks is ex-
posed in the mountains of this region, but more probable that
the gold is derived from the conglomerates of the Mission creek
series, which, as already shown, afford gold on Napoleon creek
and in the Mission creek district.
Gold is also reported by prospectors from a belt of country
which is generally parallel to the known gold belt, but set off to
the southwest and which corresponds to the supposed south-
western flank of the granite backbone. Such discoveries have
been reported from Fish creek, which flows into Norton sound
north of St Michael, and from the upper Kuskokwim river, which
flows into Bering sea. On the Sushitna river, which flows into
Cook inlet, W. A. Dickey reports colors of fine gold in the sands
all along the stream, and platinum on the upper river, where
veins of white quartz carrying gold, silver, and copper were found
in slates associated with granite and porphyry. Gold and copper
haye been reported by various persons from the region about the
sources of the Copper and White rivers. It is thus evident that
the elevated region along the heads of these various streams, and
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 169
between them and the waters of the Tanana, possesses great pos-
sibilities in the way of mineral development, but from all ac-
counts it is a region exceptionally difficult of access, and it may
well be questioned whether it is advisable to attempt its explora-
tion until facilities for travel and obtaining supplies in the Yukon
region have been increased, as they will be in the near future.
More accessible is the region immediately north of the Tanana
river known as the Tanana hills and Ketchumstock hills, which
from reports appears to be mainly a granite region, but in which
it is likely that outliers or patches of the gold-bearing schists
will be found inclosed within the granite area.
Late reports by prospectors in the Tanana region state that the
river has slack water, navigable for steamers 150 to 200 miles above
its mouth; above that the current is swift. Mountains border the
river on the north side from the mouth up, on the south they are
far distant. Colors are found in all the creeks; those heading
toward Fortymile and Seventymile offer best promises, but no
important prospects have been found. Toward Circle City the
creeks do not freeze up, and a hot spring was found in one of
the gulches.
In the mountain region to the northeast of the Yukon river
immediately above the bend, such observations as have been
made do not offer much promise of exposures of the older gold-
bearing schists. Older limestones occur there, but, though 1m-
portant gold deposits are known to occur in limestones, in the
Yukon country the general rule appears to prevail that gold is
concentrated mainly in the siliceous rocks. It may well be, how-
ever, that in the conglomerate or cement deposits of the coal-
bearing formations that are known to occur in this northeastern
region there are portions sufficiently rich in gold to make pay-
ing placers by their wearing down. In searching for such places
the prospector should study the character of the pebbles that
make up the conglomerate; it is only when these include frag-
ments of the gold-bearing rocks and occasionally of vein quartz
that they are likely to be productive.
For the region east of the international boundary, Spurr had
already pointed out, as a result of his observations in the sum-
mer of 1896, that the Klondike and Indian creek regions were
likely to show rich placers, because the schists of the Birch
creek series, and to some extent the marbles of the Fortymile
series, formed the bed-rock.
George M. Dawson reports bars of fairly coarse gold on the
12
170 ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES
Pelly all the way up to Hoole river. Just below the mouth of
the McMillan the river has cut a canyon through gray granite
hills, below which are dark crystalline schists with east-west
strike and northerly dip, associated with which are alternating
marbles and chloritic schists, probably of the Fortymile series.
Granite occurs again near the junction with the Lewes. Of the
valley of the McMillan nothing was known. The Pelly above
the detour or bend had a similar series of quartzite schists, with
interbedded limestones on the north, while the Glenlyon hills to
the south were of granites. Above these are sandstones sup-
posed to belong to the coal-bearing series and dipping 45° S.
Still higher up in Hoole canyon are marbles again, associated
with schists and volcanic rocks, possibly of the Rampart series.
Still further northeast, in the middle canyon of the Frances
river, Dawson found marbles again, while in the Tootsha range
to the east were seen granites and schists with abundant quartz
veins.
All along the summit of the Coast range the prevailing rocks
are granites, cut by later porphyry dikes. They form a belt 20
to 80 miles wide, and are generally of the hornblende or intru-
sive type. On the Dyea and Skagway trails they extend down
on the northeast side to the mid-length of Lake Bennett. In
the range of hills between Miles canyon and the Teslin river are
diabasic or dark eruptive rocks and limestones, which may be-
long to the Rampart series, though Dawson considers the lime-
stones to be probably Carboniferous.
Along the region of Rink and Five Finger rapids, below the
Big Salmon, are infolded masses of Cretaceous rocks (Kenai?)
with conglomerate at the base, overlain in places by lavas. Be-
low these are greenish eruptive rocks, and then near the mouth
of the Pelly is granite again, succeeded below the Pelly by basalt
flows. Twenty-five miles below the Pelly granitic rocks again
appear, and are succeeded by crystalline schists of various kinds,
which constitute the prevailing rock down nearly to Fortymile.
COAL AND LIGNITE
Coastal Region
The coal of Alaska so far examined, whether in the interior or
on the seacoast south of Bering strait, is of Eocene or early Ter-
tiary age and belongs without exception to varieties of lignite,
brown coal, or glance coal. North of Bering strait, in the vicin-
ALASKA AND ITS MINERAL RESOURCES 171
ity of Cape Lisburne, is a coal field of considerable extent con-
taining a fuel which is believed to be of greater geological age,
perhaps similar to that so extensively mined at Nanaimo and
other points in British Columbia. As rocks of Carboniferous age
occur in close proximity to this coal, it was long supposed to
belong to the Paleozoic coal measures, like that of Pennsylvania,
butan examination of the fossil plants actually associated with
it has shown this opinion to be erroneous.
The various coals of Alaska occur in beds interstratified with
sandstone, shale, conglomerate, and clay, these rocks usually con.
taining numerous fossil plants, leaves, cones, and amber derived
from the fossilization of resin from the ancient coniferous forests.
The geological formation containing the coal and leaf-bearing
shales is called the Kenai formation, and is usually covered by
beds of sandstone containing fossil oysters and other shells be-
longing to the Miocene or middle Tertiary.
hike all Tertiary coals, the Alaska mineral is hght in propor-
tion to its bulk, burns rapidly with little smoke, and has a ten-
dency to break up into small pieces under the action of the
weather. The glance coal is brilliant and clean to handle, like
anthracite, for which it is often mistaken, but which, bulk for
bulk, is considerably heavier. The brown coal gives a brown
instead of a black streak when scratched, has the appearance of
fossil wood, and in drying splits up into chip-like pieces. The
coal-bearing strata are comparatively widespread both along
the coast and in the interior, but as yet but few beds have been
actually worked.
In the Alexander archipelago, on Admiralty island, coal seams
and leaf-bearing shales crop out at a number of points along the
shores of Kootznahoo inlet, and a mine has been opened from
which considerable non-coking coal has been extracted at the
head of Davis creek, near Killisnoo village, about 40 miles north-
east of Sitka.
Coal or coal-bearing strata are also reported on Prince of
Wales island, near Kasahan bay ; on Lindenberg peninsula of
Kupreanof island ; on the northeast and also on the west side
of Kuiu island ; on the southern point and in Seymour canal, on
the western side of Admiralty island ; at Whale bay, on Baranof
island, 23 miles southeast of Sitka, and at various points on
Chichagof island, northwest of that place. Similar occurrences
are reported at Lituya and Yakutat bays, on the southwest flanks
of the St Elias range.
172 THE CIVIL GOVERNMENT OF ALASKA
The most important known coal field is on the east shore of
Cook inlet, on the Kenai peninsula. Here the coal beds cover
an area of 70 by 30 miles and rise in high bluffs 2,000 feet above
the sea. At Kachemak bay, where is the only good harbor, there
are six or seven seams, the thickest of which is four feet thick.
Several shiploads of the coal, which is of fair average quality,
have been taken out.
Along either shore of the Alaskan peninsula and on islands
adjoining them and in the Aleutian chain for some distance be-
yond Unalaska coal strata are reported, and have been worked or
opened at Amalik harbor, Unga island, and Chignik bay, on the
south shore, and at Herendeen bay, on the north shore of the
peninsula.
North of the Yukon, coal beds are reported at several points
along Norton sound, on the Kowak river, which empties into
Kotzebue sound, and on the banks of a river entering into Wain-
wright inlet, on the Arctic ocean. The Cape Lisburne coal field
extends in a general way from Cape Lisburne to Cape Beaufort,
a distance of 25 miles; this coal has been extensively used by
steam whalers.
In the interior, coal strata have been observed at or near An-
dreafski, Kaltag, Nulato, and Melozikakat, on the Lower Yukon.
Three seams have been mined on the right bank of the Yukon
in the Lower Ramparts at Coal creek, and coal has been taken
from Coal creek, which enters the Yukon from the north. There
is some evidence of a considerable development of coal-bearing
strata extending in either direction from this point nearly parallel
with the Yukon river and not far north of it. Although these
coals are rather light, their proximity to the gold fields promises
to render them of considerable industrial importance.
THE CIVIL GOVERNMENT OF ALASKA
By Hon. Grorecr C. Perkins, U.S. 8.
A bill making provision for the civil government of Alaska is‘
now before Congress and may become a law, but pending its
passage the political organization of the Territory is as follows:
The executive head of the territorial government is the goy-
ernor, appointed by the President. The code of laws of the Ter-
ritory is that which was in force in the State of Oregon on May '
THE CIVIL GOVERNMENT OF ALASKA 173
17, 1884, so far as the same may be applicable and not in con-
flict with the provisions of the act providing a civil government
for Alaska or with the laws of the United States. There isa
difficulty, however, in the machinery to enforce these laws, as
there is only one judge, who holds court at Sitka and Wrangell,
in the narrow strip along the coast known as the Panhandle.
He is, however, authorized and directed to hold such special
sessions as may be necessary at such times and places as he may
deem expedient. There are nine commissioners for the Terri-
tory, who, under the act of May 17, 1884, exercise all the duties
and powers, civil and criminal, now conferred on justices of the
peace under the general laws of the State of Oregon. Commis-
sioners are stationed at Unalaska, Kadiak, Circle City, Dyea, St
Michael, Unga, Sitka, Juneau, and Wrangell. These commis-
sioners have also probate and habeas corpus jurisdiction, and are
notaries public and recorders of deeds. There are a marshal
and ten deputy marshals, the latter residing at the places men-
tioned above and Douglas City. They have the powers of con-
stables under the laws of the State of Oregon. There is one
district attorney for the district court and one assistant.
The salaries of these officials are as follows:
Governor, $3,000; district attorney, $2,500; marshal, $2,500 ;
district judge, $3,000; clerk, $2,500; commissioners, $1,000,
with the usual fees of U.S. commissioners and justices of the
peace for Oregon and such fees for recording instruments as are
allowed by the laws of the same State; deputy marshals, $750,
with the usual fees of constables in Oregon.
Under the Interior Department there are twenty-one Indian
police. Under the Treasury Department there are four special
agents stationed at the Pribilof, or Seal, islands, in Bering sea,
whose duty is to protect the seals from poachers and to see that
the specified number of skins to be taken each year is not ex-
ceeded. They are stationed at the Pribilof islands. There is
also an inspector for the protection of the salmon fisheries of
Alaska, with one assistant, whose headquarters are at Sitka, but
whose duties take them to the various streams along the coast
which the salmon frequent, and on which there are canneries.
The customs service includes a collector of customs and two
deputies at Sitka, and deputies at Juneau, Mary island, Kadiak,
Karluk, Cook inlet, Unga, Unalaska, St Michael, Circle City, and
Dyea.
Under the Interior Department there is a general agent of edu-
174 THE CIVIL GOVERNMENT OF ALASKA
cation in Alaska, with an assistant general agent and a superin-
tendent for each of the two educational districts. There are
twenty-three teachers and an enrollment of 1,267 pupils in 20
day-schools. These schools, with about 20 mission schools and
homes conducted by the various missionary organizations of the
United States, the most efficient of which is the industrial school
at Sitka, with a few schools of the Russo-Greek Church, sup-
ported by the Russian government, constitute the educational
facilities of Alaska. In Sitka, Juneau, and Douglas separate
schools are maintained for white and native children. During
1896 a school-house was erected near the Treadwell gold mine
on Douglas island, and in 1897 a new school-house was built at
Hoonah, Chichagof island. In September, 1896, a school was
opened at Circle City.
The government maintains five herds of reindeer in the terri-
tory, namely, one at Cape Prince of Wales, numbering 253, one
at Cape Nome, numbering 218, one at the Swedish mission at
Golovin bay, and one at the St. James’ Episcopal station near
by, numbering together 206, and the central government herd
at the Teller station, numbering 423, making a total of 1,100.
There is a prohibition against bringing liquor into the Terri-
tory, but it is evaded by smugglers from Canada and the United
States, and at every settlement the numerous saloons seen are
evidences of the extent of the smuggling operations.
Annette island, in southeastern Alaska, has been set aside as
a reservation for the Metlakatla Indians, who emigrated from
British Columbia, and to whom the island was assigned by the
act of March 3,1891. The Secretary of the Interior recommends
that citizenship be extended to them.
The great necessity to commerce, in consequence of the rush
of gold-seekers to Alaska, of more exact information regarding
channels, etc., along the coast, has led the Coast and Geodetic
Survey to send out two parties for the purpose of surveying the
channels of entrance to the Yukon river and the navigability of
the Copper river. The head of Cook’s inlet will also be exam-
ined. The Geological Survey has also sent men into the Alaska
field, for the purpose of examining and reporting upon the mnin-
eral resources of the Territory.
A military reservation has been established by the Govern-
ment at St Michael, in Bering sea, embracing a territory within
a hundred miles’ radius from the port of St Michael. It takes in
a portion of the Alaskan mainland, including the delta of the
aaa +
THE CIVIL GOVERNMENT OF ALASKA 175
Yukon. The policy of the Government is to lease for a nominal
sum sufficient area and water frontage for commercial, manu-
facturing, and shipbuilding purposes. The Government has
also a military station near Circle City and another on the Copper
river.
Special legislation relating to Alaska has, up to the present
time, had reference simply to the narrow strip along the south-
ern coast, known, as stated above, as the Panhandle, and to the
Pribilof and Aleutian islands. Its provisions are not sufficiently
flexible to permit of its extension to the interior by executive
action. There is, however, one exception, wherein the Secretary
of the Treasury is authorized to extend the customs laws through-
out the Territory.
The laws of the United States relating to mining claims and
the rights incident thereto were put in force in Alaska by the
act of 1884 and the act of March 8, 1891.
The laws relating to lands and titles are as follows:
The mineral land laws of the United States.
Townsite laws which provide for the incorporation of townsites and
acquirement of title thereto from the United States government to
the townsite trustees.
The law providing for trade and manufactures, giving each qualified
person 160 acres of land in a square and compact form. Applica-
_tions for townsites and for trade and manufacturing purposes are
to be made to the marshal and clerk at Sitka. The coal-land reg-
ulations are distinct from the mineral regulations or laws, and the
jurisdiction of neither coal laws nor public-land laws extends to
Alaska, the territory being expressly excluded by the laws them-
selves from their operations. The act approved May 17, 1884, pro-
viding for civil government in Alaska, has this language as to mines
and mining privileges:
‘‘The laws of the United States relating to mining claims and
rights incidental thereto shall, on and after the passage of this act,
be in full force and effect in said district of Alaska, subject to such
regulations as may be made by the Secretary of the Interior and
approved by the President, and parties who have located mines or
mining privileges there, under the United States laws applicable
to the “public domain, or have occupied or improved or exercised
acts of ownership over such claims, shall not be disturbed therein,
but shall be allowed to perfect title by payments provided for.’’
There is still more general authority.
The act of July 4, 1866, says:
‘All valuable mineral deposits in lands belonging to the United
States, both surveyed and unsurveyed, are hereby declared to be
free and open to exploration and purchase, and lands in which
they are found to occupation and purchase by citizens of the United
States, and by those who have declared an intention to become
such, under the rules prescribed by law and according to local cus-
toms or rules of miners in the several mining districts, so far as the
same are applicable and not inconsistent with the laws of the United
States.”
176 THE CIVIL GOVERNMENT OF ALASKA
The patenting of mineral lands in Alaska is not a new thing,
for that work has been going on all the time.
In 1897 a surveyor-general was specifically provided for by
the act of June 24 and an additional land office authorized, but
the latter could not be opened, as no appropriation was made
for salaries.
By the bill now before Congress, and which will undoubtedly
become a law, the homestead land laws are extended over Alaska,
subject to such regulations as may be made by the Secretary of
the Interior.
The bill provides:
That no indemnity, deficiency, or lieu lands pertaining to any land
grant outside of Alaska shall be located within that Territory.
That no entry shall be allowed extending more than forty rods along
the shore of any navigable water, and along such shore a space of at least
forty rods shall be reserved from entry between such claims.
That nothing within the act shall be so construed as to authorize entries
to be made or title acquired to the shore of any navigable waters within
the Territory.
That no homestead shall exceed forty acres, unless it be located on
meadow land or land chiefly valuable for grazing or agricultural] purposes,
of which 160 acres may be entered as a homestead under the general land
laws of the United States.
That any citizen, association, or corporation may purchase, for purposes
of trade, manufacture, or other productive industry, not exceeding forty
acres, at $2.50 per acre, such tract not to include mineral or coal lands.
That a right of way 100 feet wide may be granted to duly organized
railroad companies, which are also given the right to take from unoccu-
pied public lands adjacent such material as may be necessary in construc-
tion, and to purchase not to exceed forty acres of land for terminal facili-
ties and twenty acres for stations, at $1.25 per acre, but the act cannot be
construed to give such companies the ownership or use of minerals or coal
within the right of way or terminal and station grounds.
That all charges for transportation shall be fixed subject to the approval
of the Secretary of the Interior.
That rights of way, 100 feet broad, may be granted for wagon roads,
wire-rope, aerial, or other tramways on similar terms.
All affidavits, proofs, and other papers in relation to lands which may
have been or may hereafter be taken and sworn to anywhere in the
United States shall be accepted.
The Secretary of the Interior may cause to be appraised and sold the
timber on the public lands, in such quantities as he may prescribe, to be
used in the Territory, but not for export purposes.
The President is authorized to divide the Territory into two or more
land districts, and to appoint a register and receiver for each district.
A bill making further provision for the civil government of
THE CIVIL GOVERNMENT OF ALASKA 177
the Territory has been presented to Congress and is now under
consideration. It may be amended before final adoption. It
makes the following provisions:
The temporary seat of government will be at Sitka, but there will be
no legislative assembly and no delegate to Congress.
The governor will be appointed and will have such powers as pertain
to the governor of a Territory.
A district court is established, with civil and criminal jurisdiction, and
three district judges are provided, one presiding in each of the three di-
visions into which the district is divided. One will preside in Sitka, one
at St Michael, and one at Circle City. At least two terms of court shall
be held yearly at Sitka and one in each of the other divisions. Special
terms may be held, if necessary. The jurisdiction of each division shall
extend over the entire district, but the court may change the place of
trial from one division to another in certain cases.
The respective judges shall appoint and at pleasure remove commis-
sioners for the district, who shall have the powers and jurisdiction of
commissioners of the United States circuit courts. They shall also have
the power and exercise the duties of justices of the peace; shall have
jurisdiction in all testamentary and probate matters; shall have power
to grant writs of habeas corpus; shall have the power of notaries public;
and shall have, when acting as justices of the peace, jurisdiction in suits,
not affecting titles, where the value involved is not over $1,000.
_ Three clerks shall be appointed, one for each of the three divisions of
the court. There shall also be three district attorneys.
There shall be a marshal, who shall appoint a chief deputy marshal
for each division.
The governor, with a salary of $4,000; attorneys, $4,000; judges,
$6,000; clerks, $2,500, and marshal, $4,000, shall be appointed by the
President, and shall hold office for four years.
The commissioners shall receive double the usual fees of United States
commissioners and of justices of the peace in Oregon; the chief deputy
and deputy marshals, double the usual fees of constables and deputy
marshals in Oregon.
The judges of the district shall divide it into three recording divisions,
and each court may establish in its division one or more recording dis-
tricts, in which a commissioner shall act as recorder, while the clerk of
the court shall be ex officio recorder in any part of the district not so
established.
Notices of location of mining claims shall be filed for record within 90
days from the date of discovery, and shall be recorded in the recording
district wherein the claim is situated.
The President is empowered to establish or discontinue land districts,
and to appoint a register and receiver for each district so established.
The United States mining laws shall continue applicable to the Terri-
tory. j
Natives of the Dominion of Canada shall be accorded the same mining
178 AGRICULTURE IN ALASKA
rights and privileges as are given to Americans in British Columbia and
the Northwest Territory.
Nothing in the act. shall be construed to put in force the general land
laws of the United States. ~
The general laws of the State of Oregon in foree January 1, 1894, are
declared to be the law in the Territory.
SOME OF THE CONDITIONS AND POSSIBILITIES OF
AGRICULTURE IN ALASKA
By Wauter H. Evans, Pu.D.,
Botanist, Office of Experiment Stations, U. S. Department of Agriculture
During the summer of 1897 the Secretary of Agriculture,
acting under authority from Congress, commissioned Dr Shel-
don Jackson, of the U. S. Bureau of Education; Mr Benton
Killin, one of the regents of the Oregon Agricultural College,
and the writer to investigate the agricultural conditions and
possibilities of Alaska. The report of this commission has been
made to Congress, and it has been issued as Bulletin 48 of the
Office of Experiment Stations of the Department of Agriculture.
Dr Jackson made a preliminary report on the Yukon valley,
while the other commissioners reported their observations along
the coast from Dixon entrance to Unalaska. The following
account consists in the main of an abstract of the fuller report.
From the information gained it appears that successful at-
tempts have been made at a number of places along the Yukon
river to raise hardy vegetables. Potatoes, turnips, cabbage,
cauliflower, radishes, lettuce, peas, etc., have been cultivated to
considerable extent, some of them having been grown as far
north as Circle City and Dawson. Berries abound in the inte-
rior, as they do along the coast, and grasses suitable for grazing
and hay were met with nearly everywhere. Specimens of good
hay grasses more than six feet tall were secured from the vicinity
of Circle City.
Mr William Ogilvie, who is connected with the Land Survey
of the Dominion of Canada, estimates the agricultural area of
the upper Yukon at about 460,000 acres. It is possible that
the growing of vegetables could be considerably extended in this
region.
As the observations of the writer were confined to the coast
region, that portion of Alaska will be considered more in detail.
AGRICULTURE IN ALASKA 179
Considered from an agricultural standpoint, the coast region
is divided by a wide stretch of mountains, embracing the St Elias
and Fairweather ranges, into two rather characteristic regions, a
timbered and atreeless region. The southeast or wooded region
embraces the great Alexandrian archipelago, which consists of
more than 1,000 islands, and the mainland as faras Juneau. The
second or southwestern region, much of which is barren of trees,
extends from Cook inlet along the Alaskan peninsula westward,
including the Aleutian archipelago, Kadiak, and the neighbor-
ing islands, the Shumagin group, and numerous other smaller
islands. The northern and northeastern part of this region con-
tains some timber, but in general the region is characterized by
its remarkable wealth of grasses. Toward the western portion of
this area the arborescent flora disappears entirely or is repre-
sented by a few small, stunted shrubs, mostly willows.
Without entering into a general discussion of the meteorology
of Alaska, attention may be called to two important facts: First,
that the sum of effective temperatures for certain points in the
coast region, although somewhat low, surpasses the effective tem-
peratures of several localities in Europe of known agricultural
capabilities ; and, second, that although the total annual precipi-
tation is large, there is only one point at which as much as one-
third of it falls during the summer months. The summer rain-
fallat Wrangell, Pyramid Harbor, and Killisnoo is less than that
at Indianapolis, Ind., Raleigh, N. C., or Washington, D. C.
The soils of Alaska to a great extent are of vegetable origin
and to a considerable degree resemble what are called the rice
lands of the Soath or the peat formations of Europe and else-
where. In some places in southeastern Alaska there are deep
deposits of this rich-looking soil overlying slate or conglomerate
bed rock, with often a deposit of gravel intervening. Sometimes
there is an impervious stratum of clay underlying the black soil.
Where the soil lies directly on bed rock or is underlain with clay,
the drainage is usually poor and the land more or less marshy.
Samples of what appeared to be average soils were collected
at various places and transmitted to the Division of Soils of the
Department of Agriculture. In commenting upon the charac-
ter of the samples analyzed, Professor Milton Whitney says:
The organic content of many of these soils is very much higher than in
any of the agricultural lands of the States. They correspond very nearly
with the rice lands and peat formations. The black soils of the plains
and the famous Red River Valley soils of the Northwest contain from 8
180 AGRICULTURE IN ALASKA
to 10 per cent of organic matter, but seldom more. If these soils are so
situated as to be well drained, they should be capable of producing enor-
mous crops, and with an abundant and well-distributed rainfall they
would be adapted to almost any kind of crop suited to the general climatic
conditions of that portion of the country.
In several places complaints were heard of a decided acidity
of the soil, but no definite information could be secured relating
to it. In one place the addition of a large amount of lime to a
small plat had corrected the evil complained of.
Peat formations are of considerable extent in southeastern
Alaska. In the southwestern portion of the country volcanic
material adds to the fertility and porosity of the soil in many
places. In the Cook Inlet region the drainage is usually good,
the soil overlying deep deposits of gravel. Another character-
istic soil formation is that which is so conspicuously illustrated
by the tide flats of the Copper and Stikine rivers. These places
are more or less marshy and are subject to overflow at high tides.
Where protected from the encroachment of the sea and suffi-
ciently drained they are generally considered as very productive
soils.
In the southeastern portion of Alaska the Sitkan spruce (Picea
sitchensis) and the hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana) abound, now one
and then the other predominating. They grow from tidewater
to timber line, an elevation varying from 2,000 to 4,000 feet, and
in some places the trees attain considerable size. Specimens of
the Sitkan spruce were seen that were at least 8 feet in diameter
and probably more than 200 feet high. Logs of this species were
seen at the Wrangell saw-mill that approximated 100 feet in
length, with an average diameter of more than 4 feet. At differ-
ent places in the southeastern region the so-called red and yellow
cedar (Thuja gigantea and Chamecyparis nootkatensis) abound,
usually at some little elevation from the sea, although trees of
considerable size were seen almost at sea level. Seldom do these
trees occur in such abundance as to wholly exclude other species.
Another spruce (Tsuga patton) was observed, but not in great
abundance. But a single species of pine (Pinus contorta) was
seen, and that was almost invariably found on the flats or on the
edgeof bogs. Two species of alder (Alnus oregona and A. viridis)
were common along the streams and on the mountain sides
where snowslides have swept away the dense growth of moss
and conifers. Willows are common, but seldom were they seen
to attain the dignity of trees.
AGRICULTURE IN ALASKA 181
In the north and northeastern portion of what has been desig-
nated the southwestern part of the coast region some spruce
(Picea sitchensis) and cottonwood (Populus balsamea) occur, the
trees frequently attaining a considerable size. Considerable
birch (Betula papyrifera) and perhaps another species occur in
the upper part of the Cook Inlet region, but elsewhere the forests
of the southwestern coast are very insignificant.
Local demands for lumber and fuel are the principal uses to
which the timber is put, and with almost entire exemption from
forest fires, the supply, if properly regulated, will be sufficient
for all needs of Alaskans for a long time to come.
Next to the timber, perhaps the grasses of Alaska are among
the most valuable of the plant products. In all parts of the
country they flourish to an extraordinary degree. In south-
eastern Alaska, wherever the timber is cut away and the under-
growth of the shrubs kept down, a dense growth of grass soon
takes place, to the exclusion of all other plants. Of the common
grasses timothy (Phleum pratense), Alaska red top (Deschampsia
cespitosa and D. bottnica), blue grass (Poa pratensis), orchard
grass (Dactylis glomer ata), wild barley (Hordeum boreale), Calama-
grostis aleutica, and wild rye (Elymus mollis and other species)
are the most widely distributed, and are probably the most
valuable for pasture and hay. Timothy, orchard grass, and
blue grass have become thoroughly established and grow to
great size. One of the most common native grasses is the Alas-
kan red top. It is a prominent factor in nearly all grass mix-
tures, and frequently exceeds a man in height. Specimens at
Sitka, July 5, were a little more than 4 feet in height and just
heading. Onenand grass more than 3 feet high was seen as early
as June 20. In the western part of Alaska, valley and hillside
as far as 1,000 feet or more elevation were green with grass
during the time spent in that region.
The most common hay grasses at Kadiak are Poa pratensis,
Deschampsia cespitosa, and Hordeum boreale, with some wild tim-
othy (Phleum alpinum). Calamagrostis langsdorfii was the most
abundant hay grass observed in Cook inlet. At Unalaska the
common pasture and hay grasses appear to be Trisetwm subspi-
catum and Calamagrostis aleutica.
White clover was seen in many of the small meadows and
door-yards, from which places it seems to be rapidly spreading.
Some red clover was also seen, but its adaptability to Alaskan
conditions can neither be affirmed nor denied, since apparently
182 AGRICULTURE IN ALASKA
no thorough attempt has been made to introduce it. In a few
places alfalfa was also seen that was beginning to seed in
August.
On the tide flats dense growths of sedges are common, and in
some places a very common vetch (Vicia gigantea) occurs, and
if utilized it would add considerable to the feeding value of the
marsh hay.
The nutritious character of the Alaskan grasses was not only
shown by their analyses, but also by the sleek and fat cattle
seen during the summer. Aside from pasturage, but little use
is made of the grasses. The amount of hay that is made is
wholly inadequate, and much more could undoubtedly be had
if more care be given the subject.
The abundance of berries in Alaska has been a subject of re-
mark by every one who has written concerning this country.
So far as could be learned, but little attention has been given to
their cultivation, but the few attempts that have been made seem
to promise favorably. Hardly any berries are cultivated, except
a few strawberries, currants, and raspberries, and of these both
wild and cultivated forms were seen growing, and the adapta-
bility of the wild plants to domestication was very evident. The
wild strawberry was seen under cultivation at Wrangell, and
specimens of Rubus stellatus, known as dewberry, “ Morong ” and
‘“ Knesheneka,” were seen growing in a garden at Sitka, and it
seems probable that more could be done in this line.
The flavor of most Alaskan berries was found to be excellent,
and some of them might be worthy of introduction into the States.
Of the berries which have widest distribution may be men-
tioned the salmon berry (Rubus spectabilis), two kinds of cran-
berries, the high-bush (Viburnum pauciflorwm) and the little cran-
berry (Vaccinium vitis-idxa), the red and black currant (Ribes
rubrum and hk. laxiflorum), crowberries (Empetrum nigrum),
huckleberries (Vaccinium uliginosum and its variety mucrona-
tum), raspberries (Rubus strigosus), elderberries (Sambucus race-
mosa), bunchberries (Cornus canadensis and C. suecica), and the
“ Molka” or baked apple berry (Rubus chamemorus). Of less
general distribution are strawberries (Fragaria chiloensis), dew-
berries (Rubus stellatus), thimbleberries (R. parviflorus), salalber-
ries (Gaultheria shallon), bog cranberries (Vaccinium oxycoccus),
wine or bear berries (Arctostaphylus alpina), etc. These berries
are used in many ways by the native and white population, and
in addition to the consumption of fresh berries many are stored |
AGRICULTURE IN ALASKA 183
up in various ways for winter use. The white population pre-
serve, can, and make jelly of the different kinds, while among
the natives the principal method of preserving them is in seal
oil, a vessel filled with berries preserved in this way forming a
gift that is usually highly prized.
Numerous miscellaneous plants are used for food. Among
the more common are the Labrador or Hudson Bay tea (Ledum
grenlandicum) ; wild rice or “‘koo,”’ the underground bulbs of
which are dried, powdered, and made into a sort of cake; wild
peas are employed to some extent, and several species of mush-
rooms are collected for use. Quite a number of plants are used
as pot herbs, and the medicinal value of others is recognized.
Cultivated areas in Alaska are, with the exception of one or
two notable instances, confined to kitchen gardens, in which are
grown many of the hardier vegetables of our own gardens, such
as lettuce, radishes, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, onions, peas, snap
beans,celery, turnips, cauliflower, cabbage, rhubarb, horse-radish,
etc.,in most places the local supply of radishes, lettuce, turnips,
and carrots being about equal to the demand.
It is a subject of dispute whether or not potatoes mature in
Alaska. Under the methods of culture adopted in Alaska it is
very probable that adry starchy potato is not secured, as potato
tops seen late in the fall were still quite green. In Cook inlet
and on Kadiak island, as well as elsewhere, the natives grow a
small round potato, the original stock of which is said to have
come from Russia or Siberia, and so far as could be learned it
is the same now as it was fifty or one hundred years ago. No
trouble was reported in securing sufficiently mature tubers so
that the seed could be kept over from one season to another.
Among some specimens of vegetables sent to the Department of
Agriculture by Mr Frederick Sargent, of Kadiak, were some po-
tatoes, specimens of which weighed a pound each. No doubt
these were larger than the average, but it certainly disposes of
the stock idea “that potatoes will not grow larger than walnuts
in Alaska.”
Complaints were heard in some places that cabbage and cauli-
flower would not head. There occasionally appears to be some
ground for this, but 16-pound cabbages from Killisnoo and 24-
pound cauliflowers from Wrangell would rather indicate that in
some places these plants do well. Local conditions may cause
failures of these crops, just as seems to be the case with several
others. Localities were visited where it was said that onions
184 AGRICULTURE IN ALASKA
would not grow; others where beets could not be raised; but
both of these vegetables were seen in flourishing conditions else-
where. Ina few places where attempts have been made to grow
peas and snap beans the efforts have been apparently quite suc-
cessful. When the peas are gathered at frequent intervals, the
vines are said to bear for an extra long period. Specimens of a
so-called dwarf pea were seen at Wrangell that had grown to a
height of 3 feet. Whether this was due to a mistake in the va-
riety or to the climate and soil cannot be determined. During
the past summer cucumbers are reported to have been grown at
Tyoonock, but none were seen when that place was visited.
But little appears to have been done in attempting to grow
cereals throughout the whole country. It is reported that dur-
ing the Russian régime spasmodic attempts were made to do
something in the line of promoting agriculture, but it appears
that nothing of a permanent nature was accomplshed. At
Yakutat, on the site of the old town, an agricultural colony was
established, and at various places in Cook inlet the same was
attempted. It is claimed that during Russian occupation oats,
rye, barley, and buckwheat were grown to a considerable extent,
but if this is true there are now no traces of the fields where the
grain was formerly cultivated.
The few cereals seen growing were for the most part self-seeded
from hay, feed, etc. At Wood island and Kadiak mature oats
were seen August 22 that had evidently grown from seed scat-
tered from feed or packing. A few specimens of barley were seen
at one of the places that were about 15 inches high, headed but
not ripe. Their origin was probably due to the same causes as
that of the oats.
At Tyoonock a limited experiment was made during the last
summer with spring-sown wheat, rye, and barley, and on the last
day of July the barley and rye were about 15 to 18 inches high
and fully headed out. The wheat had made a fine growth, but
showed no tendency to head. At Sitka, in 1896, a small plat of
wheat was ripened in fairly good condition, and in 1897, at the
same place, a plat of flax was sown, and on September 4 the
plants averaged about 30 inches in height and were in full bloom,
the earlier capsules containing almost mature seed.
About the only real farm in the country is on an island be-
tween Juneau and Sitka, near the village of Killisnoo. It con-
sists of about 40 acres under cultivation, and has been under
cultivation for about three years. The equipment of stock con-
AGRICULTURE IN ALASKA 185
sists of a team of horses, 6 head of cattle, and about 30 hogs,
Part of the land was tide land, and dikes have been built to keep
out the sea. Turnips, peas, cabbage, potatoes, Swedish turnips,
beets, etc., are now grown extensively. The crop for this year
consisted of about 7 tons of potatoes, 20 tons of Swedish turnips,
several tons each of beets, carrots, parsnips, and a large quantity
of peas. Two silos are maintained at this place, and the owner
is able to carry his stock through the winter in very good con-
dition. He supplies some milk and meat as well as vegetables
to the village of Killisnoo, where there is a fish-oil and guano
factory,and also to the steamers touching there during the season.
For the most part the same methods of cultivation are pursued
throughout nearly the entire country. The generally neglected
appearance of gardens is everywhere apparent. It is not con-
fined to the garden of the native, but too often that of the white
man is as poorly cared for. Often a vast amount of labor is ex-
pended in planting the crop; but once planted, it is allowed to
care for itself. The result is a large and luxuriant crop of weeds.
Bedding up the soil is practiced nearly everywhere. On the
lighter and better drained soils it 1s not as necessary as on the
heavy, poorly drained ones. Usually the beds are formed about
3 or 4 feet wide and raised as high above the general level as ean
be economically done. Most crops are planted in rows across
the beds, the distance separating the individual plants varying
according to the crop. Close planting seems to be the rule with
nearly every crop. The attempt seems to be to secure the largest
possible harvest from a limited area by planting a large amount
of seed. Potatoes are not infrequently planted 6 inches apart
in rows separated not more than a foot. The result of such plant-
ing is a thick growth of vines that covers the ground to such an
extent that the sun’s rays never reach the ground. Such methods
can hardly fail to produce a yield of very inferior tubers.
At present stock-raising is carried on toa very limited extent,
mileh cows being the most common farm animal seen. At
nearly every village there were seen some cows, pigs, and poul-
try, while horses are kept at a few of the larger places. The
team at the Killisnoo farm is probably the only team in Alaska
employed in agriculture, the other horses being used for team-
ing around the towns and packing around mining camps. At
several places dairies are maintained, supplies of milk and a
small quantity of butter being furnished most of the year. At
Kadiak some years ago an attempt was made to introduce
13
186 AGRICULTURE IN ALASKA
sheep. Quite a number were placed on a small island, and, as
they had come from a much warmer and a drier region, many
died during the winter in consequence of being poorly fed and
not provided with shelter.
Pigs are reported to thrive exceedingly well in most parts of
Alaska, but when allowed to run at large their flesh is liable to
acquire a fishy flavor. The same objection is raised against
the flesh of fowls, since their diet in winter consists almost
entirely of fish refuse.
The prevailing conception of Alaska as a region wholly given
up to glaciers and mountains is strikingly at variance with the
facts. In 1894 the director of the Geological Survey estimated
the tillable land in southeastern and southwestern Alaska as
embracing between 4,000 and 5,000 square miles, or from
2,500,000 to 3,200,000 acres, an area about equal to that of the
State of Connecticut. If the grazing lands be added to the
above estimate, the acreage would be greatly extended.
The agriculturist of Alaska will have some serious problems
to consider. The more important are the clearing and draining
of the land, lack of markets, and transportation facilities.
In southeastern Alaska, with the exception of the tide flats,
land must first be cleared of the dense forest growth, and in
some places the deep moss will also have to be removed. The
spruce stumps must be dug out, as they are very slow in rotting,
and not infrequently produce large second-growth timber. In
addition to clearing, the land must be thoroughly drained and
protected against seepage from above. This ditching and re-
moval of stumps is very laborious, and estimates of $200 per
acre were given as a probable cost of preparing the soil for cul-
tivation. This cost seems well nigh prohibitive for agricultural
purposes. However, the same process had to be followed else-
where. A report issued by the experiment station at Pullman,
Washington, states the cost of clearing muck lands of cedar and
alder stumps at the Puyallup substation to be $122.80 per acre.
No definite information has been obtainable as to the cost of
clearing farm land elsewhere, but wherever practiced the process
is expensive. In the southwestern portion of the country the
expense of clearing away the stumps will not be required, nor
is draining necessary to the same extent as in the other region.
The agricultural possibilities of Alaska can be estimated only
from the rather meager evidence of limited experiment, and by
jai
THE METLA K ATLA MISSION IN DANGER 187
comparing what has been accomplished in regions having some-
what similar conditions. Agriculture as it exists in Alaska has
been described in the previous pages. It is not expected that
this country will ever rival the Mississippi valley in its product-
iveness, but it does seem probable that agriculture and horti-
culture could be extended so as to supply local demands for
many products. When the climatic conditions, topography,
soils, etc., of Norway, Iceland, the Orkney islands, as well as
Scotland, Sweden, and Finland, are compared with those of
Alaska, it seems probable that what has been accomplished in
Kuropean stations could also be done in this country, if properly
undertaken. It is well established that many agricultural pro-
ducts flourish in parts of northern Europe having approximately
the same temperature during the growing season as we find to
exist in portions of Alaska, and if temperature is the controlling
factor in plant distribution there would seem no reason why the
same varieties of plants would not succeed in both countries if
properly introduced and cultivated. Rye, oats, and barley are
grown in sufficient abundance in the north of Europe, not only
to supply local demands, but also to some extent for export.
Comparing Alaskan data, secured from agricultural experi-
ments that have not always been conducted in the best manner,
with the results secured from other regions having a somewhat
comparable climate, it seems safe to say that the coast region of
Alaska possesses agricultural possibilities of no little importance,
and with an enlightened native population and a permanent
white one it seems possible that the demand for many of the
agricultural products could be supplied.
THE METLAKATLA MISSION IN DANGER
The history of missions from the earliest epoch has been a
struggle, not only against the natural obstacles of the situation,
but against the indifference or criticism of opponents in the
rear. It is not’difficult to criticise, “ For John came neither
eating nor drinking, and they say, He hath adevil. The Son of
Man came eating and drinking, and they say, Behold a man
eluttonous, and a winebibber, a friend of publicans and sinners.”
There are two modes of mission work among the Indians:
one which draws its sinews of war from friends in the churches
and sends out salaried missionaries, who devote themselves to
188 THE METLAKATLA MISSION IN DANGER
teaching and the work of conversion. The teachers often lack
in practicality what they make up in devotion to the ideal.
Nevertheless it would be folly to deny that these missions have
done much good in their way, and will continue to do so. Of
them the scoffer says: ‘“‘ The missionaries live at their ease and
do nothing for it but teach dogmas which the Indian cannot
understand, and train girls to be good housewives, who, when
their education is completed, will be sold by their heathen rel-
atives to some miner or trader. When the mission is closed for
want of funds or otherwise, the converts relapse into evil ways,
and in a little while their last state is worse than their first.”
That there have been instances justifying to some degree this
harsh view, every one familiar with Indian missions will admit.
The other method is to fit the Indians to provide for them-
selves and for the mission by industrial training, self-denial, and
hard work, shielding them in the early stages as we shield our
own children from contact with evil men and things until, stim-
ulated both by their own material interests and by the truths
of the gospel. in the course of time and growth they shall be able
to stand alone, men among men, to fight the battles of life. This
is the method of Hampton and Carlisle, whose most conspic-
uous exponent on the uncivilized frontier is the Rey. Wilham
Dunean, of Metlakatla. Annette island, Alaska. This gentleman
has given forty years of his life to the work among the Tsimsian
Indians, first at Metlakatla, on the British Columbia side of the
line. Through a most injudicious exercise of religious narrow-
mindedness, well known, but of which there is insufficient space
to speak here, the Indians were obliged to abandon their homes,
church, and school and much other property and move over into
American territory at Annette island to obtain freedom of re-
ligious worship. Here, several years later, Congress granted
them the use of the island, and, in confidence that they were at
last safe from interference, under Duncan’s direction they went
heartily to work. His plan was, in brief, to keep the colony
together and free from undesirable elements, liquor and vice ; to
teach them to utilize the resources of the region to support
themselves and their families by work; to buiid good houses
and maintain family life as known to civilization, and to teach
the English branches and manual training to the young people.
In pursuance of this ideal, Mr Duncan put his own means and
contributions of friends into the outfit of a salmon cannery which
has been worked by the Indians, as well as a saw-mill and other
AGRICULTURE IN THE YUKON VALLEY 189
correlated facilities. The success has been complete. The colony
has maintained itself, some of the Indians have become share-
holders, and the canning business has yielded a good profit. The
evidence of this is overwhelming and includes the testimony of
almost every disinterested person who has visited the colony.
Even the scoffers admit that as a business enterprise the mission
isa great success. Its very success has become a source of danger.
Business competition is nowhere sharper than in Alaska, because
the ordinary safeguards of public opinion and well enforced law
are not available in restraint of greed and sharp practice. Most
of the canneries are included in a trust, and outsiders have scant
consideration and must fight for their interests unceasingly and
at great disadvantage. Nothing which might hurt the sensitive
feelings of the trust can be found in the published reports of the
official salmon inspectors ; yet it is the common opinion that the
law is violated systematically, except during the visits of the
inspectors for a few hours during the whole season.
Like all the AlJaskan islands, Annette island contains a few
quartz veins. There is good reason to think that none of them
is of any great value, and no development work, such as is re-
quired by law, has been done on any of them. Under the reser-
vation of Congress the prospectors could not acquire any rights,
at any rate. But an attempt is now being made to induce Con-
eress to bolster up a speculation in these undeveloped leads by
rescinding the reservation act, so as to cut off from the colony
its waterworks, its mill and cannery, and to a large extent its
fishery rights, and thus leave the people without resources and
open to the vices of the mining camp and rumseller, to the in-
evitable destruction of all that has been hitherto accomplished.
The bare statement of the facts carries its own commentary.
The friends of justice, and of the Indian’s right to work out his
salvation, and eventually to take his place among the citizens
of our common country, should make themselves heard before
it is too late. Wm. H. Dart.
AGRICUETURE IN THE YUKON: VAELEY
In a brief preliminary report on the agricultural and horti-
cultural conditions in the Yukon valley, Dr Sheldon Jackson
mentions having found at the Roman Catholic mission at Kos-
erefski, 338 miles from the mouth of the river, and at the Protest-
190 ESKIMO GEOGRAPHIC NAMES
ant Episcopal mission at Anvik, 17 miles higher up the stream,
gardens producing potatoes (7 or 8 inches long and 3 inches in
diameter’, turnips weighing 10 pounds, cauliflower, radishes,
cabbage, lettuce, carrots, beets, and peas, while strawberries,
blackberries, raspberries, and other well-known small fruits
were growing wild in the immediate vicinity. At Circle City,
1,322 miles up the river, and at Fort Cudahy, 1,522 miles up,
many favorite varieties of garden truck seemed to be thriving.
Dr Jackson sums up his statement in the following words:
“While Alaska will never be an agricultural state in the same
sense in which that term is understood in the Mississippi valley,
yet it has agricultural capacities much in advance of the public
sentiment of the country.”
ON ESKIMO GEOGRAPHIC NAMES ENDING IN MIUT
Mr Charles Hallock, in his article on the Kuskokwim river,
in THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE for March, 1898, enu-
merates a number of names of Eskimo settlements on the river,
all ending in mute, and explains (on p. 88) that “ mute means
village.” This is not really a translation of the affix, although
words with this termination appear to be very generally used as
village names in that part of Alaska—at least, by white men.
Strictly speaking, such names are not applicable to the village
itself, but to the inhabitants of the village, for the termination,
which properly should be written miut, is simply the plural of
the well-known Iéskimo enclitic affix mio, “‘ he who dwells,” or
“that which belongs” Gn any place), which is found wherever
any dialect of the Eskimo language is spoken. In Greenland
these names are applied only to the inhabitants of single village
sites, as, for example. NGngmiut, “the people of Godthaab ;”’
but in the central region and in northwestern Alaska they are
applied sometimes to more extended regions, and thus serve as
a kind of tribal name. For instance, the Point Barrow Eskimos
call the people of the Mackenzie delta collectively Kupangmiun,
‘the people who live on the great river.”
This termination should always be written miut (or miwn in
the northwestern clialects), but appears in the writings of differ-
ent explorers in several incorrect forms, such as mute, mut, meut,
or neun.
JOHN MurpbocuH,
Boston Public Library.
GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
Geographical and Statistical Notes on Mexico. By Matias Romero. Pp.
xiv + 286. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons.
The modest title conveys an inadequate idea of the scope of this book,
which is a compendium of useful and interesting data as to the resources
and commercial progress of our sister Republic. The high official position
of Sefior Romero has procured for him data inaccessible to most writers,
while his long diplomatic service in the United States has enabled him
to select wisely the statistical matter herein presented. He treats clearly,
from original sources, mining, railways, revenues and expenditures, for-
eign trade in general, and especially the commercial relations between
Mexico and the United States, the data in many cases extending to 1897.
The volume closes with an interesting article on ‘‘The Drainage of the
Valley of Mexico,” a problem that for 500 vears baflled the local engi-
neers, but which, now finally resolved, will be practically completed in
June, 1898.
The subject of railways occupies the most space, as is proper, they con-
stituting the most potent factor in the late astonishing development of
Mexico. Sefior Romero’s account of the mining industries will command
attention, not only from the interesting manner in which it is presented,
but also from the pr dominating part played by silver in late years. Mex-
ico has coined silver to the value of $3,530,000,000, and has used one-fourth
as much more in the arts, etc.
The coinage during the colonial period (1537-1821) averaged annually
$7,500,000, during the independence (1822-73) $15,600,000, and under
the republic $24,700,000. It is estimated that the annual output of silver
in Mexico will ultimately reach $100,000,000.
The commercial relations between Mexico and the United States are
treated fully, and the statistical tables illustrate forcibly the steadily in-
creasing trend of Mexican trade toward this country. In 1872-73, the
first regular report of the Mexican statistical bureau, the imports from the
United States were valued at $6,430,000, in 1896-’97 they amounted to
$23,535,000, consisting principally of shanin eve anne of metal, wood, and
cotton, and raw cotton, although corn figured largely, owing to the failure
of the crop in Mexico. In the same years Mexico exported to the United
States $16,430,000 (1872-73), and $30,714,000 (189697). The increase in
exports is almost entirely in merchandise, the principal articles being
copper, coffee, and fibers.
The excellencies of Mexican climates scarcely appear in the meager
meteorological data presented, and the value of the table on page 89 is
impaired by the misprint of 1869 for the correct year, 1896. It is much
to be regretted that’so valuable a publication has no general map.
ENS Vile Gra
191
192 GHOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
Map of Alaska, showing known Gold-bearing Rocks, with Descriptive Text con-
taining Sketches of the Geography, Geology, Gold Deposits and Routes to the
Gold Fields. U.S. Geological Survey. Pp. 44. Washington. 1898.
A Report to Congress on Agriculture in Alaska, including Reports by Walter
H. Evans, Benton Killin, and Sheldon Jackson. U.S. Department
of Agriculture, Office of Experiment Stations. Bulletin No. 48.
Pp. iv + 36, with map and illustrations. Washington. 1898.°
Rand, McNally & Co.’s New 18 X 24 Map of Alaska, showing also British
Columbia, with portions of Northwest Territories, ete. Chicago and
New York: Rand, McNally & Company. 1897.
Rand, McNally & Co.’s Official Map of Alaska, including The Klondike Dis-
trict and Adjacent Gold Fields, showing various routes to the mines.
24 < 36, cloth. Chicago and New York: Rand, McNally & Co. 1897.
Golden Alaska. An Up-to-Date Guide. Klondike District. Yukon Valley.
By Ernest Ingersoll. Pp. v + 160, with maps and illustrations. Chi-
cago and New York: Rand, McNally & Company. 1897.
The Golden North. By C. R. Tuttle. Pp. x + 307, with maps. Chicago
and New York: Rand, McNally & Company. 1897.
Nothing could be more timely or, for their purpose, more valuable than
the reports on Alaska recently published by the U. S. Geological Survey
and the U. S. Department of Agriculture, the one on the mineral re-
sources of the Territory and the other on its agricultural capabilities.
While there is still much awaiting demonstration in both these fields of
investigation, enough is definitely known to prove of the utmost utility
to those who are seeking their fortune in the new Eldorado. The prin-
cipal authors of both reports have rendered the readers of THz NaTronat
GrocraPuic MaGaztne the service of summarizing the results of their in-
vestigations for this number, but the reports themselves should be care-
fully studied by all prospective visitors to the region described.
The reputation of the well-known firm of Rand, McNally & Co. is fully
maintained in their recent publications on Alaska and the Klondike.
Their ‘18 by 24 map” shows in considerable detail the whole of Alaska
and the western portion of the Dominion of Canada, and notwithstand-
ing the small scale on which it is drawn, it is clear and distinct in every
particular. The ‘“‘ official map,’’ while twice the size of the foregoing,
embraces a much smaller area, with the result that the different geo-
graphical features of the attractive region it represents stand out with a
distinctness that leaves nothing to be desired. Mr Ernest Ingersoll’s
‘“ Golden Alaska’’ contains much useful information for intending set-
tlers, but is hardly up to the author’s usual standard in its literary style.
Mr Tuttle’s ‘‘The Golden North” is a somewhat more ambitious and
more serious work and not so obviously designed to meet a merely tem-
porary want. While the two publications necessarily cover to some ex-
tent the same ground, each has its place, and the two books are really
complementary to each other.
J. H.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RY.
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H. W. FULLER, Gen/. Pass. Agent, Washington, D. C.
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ISAAC F. LLOYD, Second Vice-President. EMORY McCLINTOCK, Actuary.
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NAT. GEOG. MAG. VOL. IX, 1898, PL. 5
CAPTAIN U. S. NAVY
National Geographic Magazine
Vou. 1X MAY, 1898 No. 5
CUBA
By Roperr 7. Hint,
United States Geological Survey
SITUATION AND GEOGRAPHIC RELATIONS
Cuba is the westernmost and largest of the four islands known
as the Great Antilles. These, with the Virgin islands at their
eastern end, stretch east and west for over 1,350 miles, and con-
stitute a distinct geographic province—distinct in relief, geologic
formation, and history from the other West India islands and
the adjacent mainlands.
In their climate and vegetation, as in their topographic fea-
tures or geologic history, the Antilles have no affinities with
conditions with which we are familiar in the United States.
Their whole aspect is tropical, yet they possess so many unique
individual features, differing from those of other tropical lands,
that they belong in a class entirely by themselves. The causes
of this individuality are involved in a peculiar geologic history,
which can be dwelt upon here only to the extent of stating that
it has produced certain peculiarities of configuration and given
origin to formations which weather into soils of unusual pro-
ductiveness.
Collectively the Great Antilles consist of a disconnected chain
of mountains (the Antillean system) protruding above the sea
and having an east-west trend directly transverse to that of the
axial continental Cordilleras. The highest peaks of this system
in Haiti, Cuba, and Jamaica are 11,000, 9,000, and 7,000 feet
respectively. These mountains of deformation are irregularly
14
194 CUBA
flanked below 2,000 feet by horizontal benches or terraces, which
are the result of regional elevations and base-leveling after the
last period of mountain-making in Miocene time. The Antil-
lean uplift may be compared to an inverted, elongated canoe,
the highest and central part of which is in the region adjacent
to the Windward passage. Thus it is that the higher peaks
occur in Haiti, eastern Cuba, and eastern Jamaica, while the
arching crest line descends toward the western part of the two
latter islands and, on the east, toward Porto Rico. The higher
mountains are composed of non-calcareous clay conglomerate
and igneous rock, the debris of unknown lands of pre-Tertiary
time, which, with the exception of a few restricted points, were
buried, during a profound subsidence in early Tertiary time, be-
neath a vast accumulation of calcareous oceanic sediments now
composing the white limestones which constitute the chief for-
mations of the islands, and which were, together with the pre-
ceding formations, elevated into their present position at the
close of the Tertiary period.* The mountains above 2,000 feet are
composed of the older non-calcareous formations and the border-
ing plateaus of limestone, resulting in two distinct and contrast-
ing types of soil throughout the Antilles.
STRATEGIC AND COMMERCIAL POSITION
In area, in natural resources, in the number and character of
its inhabitants, in position as regards proximity to the American
and Mexican seaboards, strategically Cuba is by far the most im-
portant of the Great Antilles. It is very near the center of the
great American Mediterranean, separating the Gulf of Mexico
from the Caribbean sea, and in close proximity.to our southern
*The general geology of the island, while not discussed in this article, is well shown
in many of the illustrations. It may be briefly stated as consisting of an older base-
ment of pre-Tertiary sedimentary rocks, in which Cretaceous and probably Jurassie
fossils have been found. Above this there are, first, littoral beds composed of terrig-
enous material, and then a great thickness of white limestones consisting of organ-
ically derived oceanic material, as distinguished from true reef rock of late Eocene
and Oligocene age. The island was reclaimed from the sea and assumed its present
relief by a great mountain-making movement in late Tertiary time, succeeding the
deposition of these limestones. In later epochs, Pliocene and Pleistocene, the island
underwent a series of epeirogenic subsidences and elevations which affected the
coastal borders, producing the wave-cut cliffs and a margin of elevated reef rock which
borders the coast in many places, as can be recognized in the illustrations of the cities
of Habana and Baracoa. So far as its history is known, the island has never been con-
nected with the American mainland, although such has frequently been asserted to be
the case. Thesé assertions have been based upon the erroneous identification of cer-
tain vertebrate animal remains. There are no traces in the animal life of Cuba, past or
present, which justify this conclusion. Some of the crystalline rocks may be ancient,
but most of them are mid-Tertiary in age.
QYyhit 9YZ UO APISDD OLLOT 7f2) 247 UO fi.ta}}0qQ BLOYS
GQUVMLOO DNIMOOT “MOAUVH VNVAVH OL AONVUL
196 CUBA
seaboard, the coast of Mexico, the Bahamas, Haiti, Jamaica,
Central America, the Isthmus, and the coast of South America.
The island commands three important maritime gateways:
the Straits of Florida, leading from the Atlantic ocean into the
Gulf of Mexico; the Windward passage, leading from the At-
lantie into the Caribbean sea, and the Yucatan channel, con-
necting the Caribbean sea and the Gulf. The first and last of
these completely command the Gulf of Mexico. It is less than
962 miles from Key West to the north coast of Cuba. From the
east end of the island, Haiti and Jamaica are visible,.54 and 85
miles distant respectively. From the western cape (San Anto-
nio) to Yucatan the distance is 150 miles.
OUTLINE, DIMENSIONS, AND AREA
The outline of the island, commonly compared by the Span-
iards to that of a bird’s tongue, also resembles a great, hammer-
headed shark, the head of which forms the straight, south coast
of the east end of the island, while the body extends to the west-
ward in asinuous curve. This analogy is made still more strik-
ing by two long, fin-like strings of cays or islets, which extend
backward along the opposite coasts, parallel to the main body of
the island.
The longer axis of the island extends from the 74th to the
85th meridian, while its latitude, between 19° 40’ and 23° 337,
embraces early four degrees. Its length, following an axial
line drawn through its center from Cape Mayci to Cape San An-
tonio, is 730 miles. Its width varies from 90 miles in the east
to less than 20 miles in the longitude of Habana. Cape Mayci,
on the east, lies directly south of New York, while Cape San .
Antonio is situated south of Cincinnati.
At the outset the reader should dispossess his mind of any
preconceived idea that the island of Cuba is in any sense a phys-
ical unit. On the contrary, it presents a diversity of topographic,
climatic, and cultural features which, as distributed, divide the
island into at least three distinct natural provinces, which for
convenience may be termed the Hastern, Central, and Western.
No accurate trigonometric surveys have been made of the
island and its bordering islets, including 570 cays adjacent to
the north coast and 730 to the south, or of the Isle of Pines, a
large andimportant dependency. Nearly all existing geographic
data have been based upon a large map compiled by Pichardo,
CUBA 197
engraved in Barcelona, which was a compilation of local surveys
of various and doubtful degrees of accuracy.
The area of the main island has been estimated at from 40,000
to 43,000 square miles, that of the Isle of Pines at 1,214, and that
of the cays at 1,850. Some of the larger cays, like Romano, are
140 square miles in extent. Reclus estimates the total at 45,883
square miles, an area about equal to that of the state of New York
and nearly one-fourth the size of Spain.
CONFIGURATION
The distinct types of relief include regions of high mountains,
low hills, dissected plateaus, level plains, intermontane valleys,
and coastal swamps. In general, however, with the exception
ofa strip of the south-central coast, the island as a whole stands
)
es, OS
ConFIGURATION.—1. Bench of elevated coral reef. 2. Later terraces bordering the island.
3. Cuchilla terraces. 4. Older and higher levels. 5. Mountains of deformation.
well above the sea, is thoroughly drained, and presents a rugged
aspect when viewed from thesea. About one-fourth of the total
area 1s mountainous, three-fifths are rolling plain, valleys, and
gentle arable slopes, and the remainder is swampy.
THE COAST
The coast line of Cuba is very extensive, measuring, without
its meanderings, nearly 2,200 miles. On Pichardo’s map the
coast line, measured with all its embayments and including
the islets, is over 6,800 miles. On all sides except the south-
central the coast is abrupt, except where indented by pouch-
like harbors, and stands above the sea as if the waters of the
latter were rapidly planing away what had once been a more
extensive land. In many places the immediate coast line is a
narrow bench of elevated reef rock a few yards in width and
MQAIW ISIVNVO UVAN ‘SVZNVIVW GNVY VNVAVH NaGMIGa ‘VANO TO LSVOO HIWON GALVATIT
CUBA 199
standing about 20 feet above the sea, between the bluffs and the
water. The coast border on the north presents a low cliff topog-
raphy, with a horizontal sky line from Matanzas westward, grad-
ually decreasing from 500 feet at Matanzas to 100 feet in the
west. The coast of the east end is abrupt and rugged, present-
ing both on the north and south sides a series of remarkable
terraces, representing successive pauses or stages in the elevation
of the island above the sea, and constituting one of the most
striking features anywhere to be seen. West of Guantanamo to
Cape Cruz the precipitous Sierra Maestra rises immediately back
of these terraces. From Cape Cruz to Cape San Antonio, with the
exception of a brief stretch between Trinidad and Cienfuegos,
the coast is generally low and marshy.
‘The cays adjacent to the middle third of the island, on both
the north and south sides (the famous Jardines of Columbus),
are mostly small coral or mangrove islets which have grown up
from shallow, submerged platforms surrounding those parts of
the island and in places form barriers to the mainland. They
are mainly uninhabited, owing to the scarcity of potable waters,
but constitute a formidable obstacle to navigation, except when
guided by skillful pilotage.
THE INTERIOR
The interior of the island of Cuba has not been sufficiently
surveyed to accurately map the nature of the soil or the relief
of the surface. The various commissions named in times past
by the Captains General to make reconnaissances avow in their
reports that the lack of habitation in the greater part of the ter-
ritory, the impenetrability of the forests, the insurmountable
Cordilleras, and the scarcity of means and time have prevented
them from carrying out successfully the mapping of the diverse
ramifications of the mountains, the tracing out of their salients
and valleys, and the determination of their extent, altitude, and
geologic structure. It seems that their observations did not ex-
tend east of the 70th meridian, where the most interesting part
of the island, from a scientific point of view,is found. Further-
more, the results of such investigations as were made were but
impertectly published in fragments.
MOUNTAINS
The higher eminences are true mountains of deformation,
composed of disturbed sedimentary rocks with igneous intru-
asspbp vy ford liq yojays 9 WodyT
a SUOVUUAL GALVAUTA GNV SNIVINOOW ONTMOHS ‘Vand Td ODVILNVS JO GSva ‘AHA VUDOdOL LSVOO
gree TRUS ta Me ae
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CUBA
sions. The mountains of this
class do not constitute a con-
tinuous axial backbone to the
island, as popularly supposed,
but occur in three distinct and
independent groups, known as
the eastern, western, and cen-
tral, respectively, the trends of
which overlap each other en
echelon. The highest of these
is the narrow, precipitous, east-
ern range, known as the Sierra
Maestra, which dominates the
straight east-and-west coast of
Santiago de Cuba>and_culmi-
nates in the Pico del Turquino,
which rises directly from the
sea to a height variously esti-
mated at from 8,600 to 9,000
feet. a Gran Piedra, in this
range, hear Santiago, is 5,200
feet high. This master range
extends through 22 degrees of
longitude, from Guantanamo
to Cape Cruz, and constitutes
an independent feature topo-
eraphically different from the
rest of Cuba. Geographically
it belongs to a class with the
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Kocene age, intruded by ancient mid-Tertiary igneous rocks, the
debris of which makes a clay and gravel soil—one of the two
contrasting types which constitute the greatest wealth of the
island.
The Sierra Maestra crest closely parallels the adjacent sea-
coast, toward which its slopes descend precipitously. Inland,
toward the north, the slope is gentler, the eroded ridges leading
gradually down to the valley of the Cauto, the deep indentation
of which nearly separates these mountains from the region to the
north. The second group of mountains, the Sierra de los Or-
ganos, is found in the extreme western province of Pinar del Rio,
extending northeast and southwest between Mariel, near Habana,
and Cape San Antonio. This range consists of lower ridges of
geologic formation different from those of the Sierra Maestra.
Its summits culminate in the Pan de Guajaibon, west of Habana,
which has an altitude of 2,532 feet. Its rocks are composed of
deformed sedimentaries of supposed Paleozoic, Triassic, Jurassic,
and Tertiary age, the uplift of which may have been cumulative,
but culminated during the close of the last-mentioned period.
The Organos are covered with a growth of pine and flanked on
either side by many beautiful slopes and valleys, those on the
south constituting the famous Vuelta Abajo tobacco lands.
While the Sierra Organos proper cease just west of Habana,
the strike of their uplift, accompanied by the same character of
igneous protrusions flanked: by Tertiary limestones, although
void of the older rocks, is traceable by a series of low discon-
nected hills, in a gently curved line passing throughout the cen-
tral plain of the island and to the north of the third or central
group of Trinidad into the western part of the province of Puerto
Principe. Thus, in a manner, this line of uplift, varying in in-
tensity from the sharp ridges of the west to low flattened folds
in the middle provinces, constitutes the nearest resemblance to
an axial backbone of the body of the sinuous outline of the island,
while the Sierra Maestra constitutes the head. The principal
components of these interrupted summits of low relief dotting
the plains of Habana, Matanzas, Santa Clara, and Puerto Prin-
cipe are as follows: Almost due south of Habana, commencing
east of the village of Santiago, is a range of low, timbered hills,
surrounded by plains, including the Tetas de Managua, the Arcas
de Canasi, Lomas de Camoa, the Escallera de Jarucg (which is
visible from a great distance), and the Pan de Matanzas. Along
the north coast between Habana and Matanzas there are many
SVZNVLVM 40 HiNOS ‘NIVTd TVULNAD AO LAO DYNISTU SNIVINOOW
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204 CUBA
of these hills, which, as remarked by Humboldt, afford some of
the most beautiful scenic prospects in the world. The occurrence
of these lower timbered summits in a region which is generally
level plain has afforded a safe retreat for bands of insurgents,
who make them a base for frequent incursions upon the out-
skirts of Habana and Matanzas.
For a brief interval these hills die out in eastern Matanzas, but
upon crossing into Santa Clara, and from thence on into Santiago
deCuba,they reappear as longcrest lines and flat-topped plateaus.
following a line near and parallel with the north coast, including
the Sierras Zatibonico and Cubitas. The last-named ridge has
been an impregnable insurgent stronghold during the present rey-
olution and was for a time the seat of the insurgent government.
The third group of high mountains occupies a limited area
between Cienfuegos and Santo Espiritu, on the south side of the
central portion of the island, and to the northward of the city of
Trinidad, and entirely south of the axial group above described.
These are less angular than the eminences of the Sierra Maestra
and consist of central summits with radiating slopes, the highest
of which is El Potrerillo, 2 900 feet. They are composed of semi-
crystalline limestones and shales which have been doubtfully
considered of Paleozoic origin, flanked by highly disturbed Cre-
taceous and Tertiary beds. Interspersed between these moun-
tains are numerous fertile valleys, giving to this part of Cuba a
diversified landscape.
THE LIMESTONE PLAINS
The three dominant groups of mountains above described
are topographic irregularities surviving from earlier epochs or
pushed up with the great sheets of Tertiary limestone which in
all the intermediate and coastal areas comprise the dominant
formation of the island. This limestone crust, gently warped
and undulated in many directions, has great variation in alti-
tude. Its maximum elevation is in the extreme east, and
gradually decreases to the center of the island, rising again to
the west. In the eastern and northern parts of the province of
Santiago de Cuba it constitutes an elevated plateau, attaining a
height of nearly 1,800 feet and embeds the base of the Sierra
Maestra. Here it is so dissected by drainage that it gives a
most rugged relief to the district which it occupies, and presents
on the seaward side a remarkable series of terraced cliffs, repre-
CUBA
senting successive elevations of the island in
Pliocene, Pleistocene, and recent time. This
topography is surmounted by extensive flat-
topped summits like the Mesa Toar and the
Junki (anvil) of Baracoa (alt. 1,827 feet), bor-
dered by numerous sharp, knife-edged salients,
known as cuchillas. Similar remnantal flat
tops occur at rare intervals as far west as Ma-
tanzas, the most conspicuous of which are the
Sierra Matahambre and the Pan de Matanzas
(alt. 1,200 feet). To the westward, in the proy-
inces of Matanzas and Habana, the arch of the
plateau, which follows the northern side, de-
scends nearer and nearer sea-level, and develops
a longer but gentle slope toward the south coast,
hence presenting a cliff topography to the north
sea and gradually merging, as the great central
plain of Cuba, into the Caribbean, producing
‘the extensive cienega or swamp known as the
Zapata on the coast opposite Matanzas. —
Through Puerto Principe and Santa Clara,
except where broken by the central mountains
of Trinidad, this limestone stretch forms two
wide coastal belts, each about a third the width
of the island, separated by a central axial strip.
West of Santa Clara these two belts unite into
the broad plains of Matanzas and Habana, where
they. constitute the central sugar region of
Cuba—the Vuelta Arriba—and again diverge
west of the latter city along either side of the
central mountains of Pinar del Rio, where it con-
stitutes the Vuelta Abajo. These limestone dis-
tricts weather into fertile calcareous soils, red
and black in color, and of a quality and depth
unequaled in the world, and their extent in the
level region is an almost continuous field of
sugar-cane. At two places throughout the
length of the island there are depressions cross-
ing it where the divide is reduced to less than
500 feet. The first of these is between Moron
and the south coast, in Puerto Principe, and the
second between Habana and Batabano.
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VALLEYS
In the more rugged eastern provinces there are many valleys
of wide extent and great fertility. These are numerous also in
Santa Clara and Puerto Principe. The most extensive of them,
however, is that of the Rio Cauto in Santiago de Cuba. It is
situated in a protected position between rugged eminences on
the north and south and threaded by a navigable river. This
valley is densely populated and has been one of the great strong-
holds of the present uprising.
By provinces the relief may be summarized as follows: San-
tiago de Cuba is predominantly a mountainous region of high
relief, especially along the coasts, with many interior valleys.
Puerto Principe and Villa Clara are broken regions of low moun-
tain relief, diversified by extensive valleys. Matanzas and Ha-
bana are vast stretches of level cultivated plain, with only a few
hills of relief. Pinar del Rio is centrally mountainous, with
fertile coastward slopes.
\
DRAINAGE
The drainage of Cuba is abundant, varying in character in
different parts of the island. Considering the limited catch-
ment areas, these streams are remarkably copious in volume.
In the plains of the central and western provinces the streams
flow from the central axis toward the corresponding coast and
have opalescent waters, like those of the limestone springs of
Texas and Florida. These streams run through widely sloping
valleys, with only slightly indented streamways, and are remark-
ably free from lateral ramifications. Canyons are not developed
until they reach the abrupt plateau edge of the north coast.
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208 CUBA
Many of the southward-flowing streams of this portion of the
island do not reach the sea directly, but disperse into vast
clenegas and swamps. Several of the stream valleys, like that of
the Yumuri of Matanzas, are accompanied by some of the most
restful and beautiful landscapes in the world. The Rio Armen-
daris, which nearly encircles Habana on the southward, affords
that city an abundant supply of water. In this and other por-
tions of the island where the limestone formation prevails, as in
all the white limestone areas of the tropics, a large portion of
the drainage is subterranean, accompanied by many remarkable
caverns. The rivers Cuyajabos, Pedernales, Guanajay, Copel-
lanias, San Antonio, and others along the south slope of Pinar
del Rio disappear in limestone caverns, where they continue
their seaward course. The falls of Rosario in this province are
of great beauty, as also is an immense natural bridge.
In the province of Santiago and part of Puerto Principe the
drainage is morecomplicated. The limestone plateaus of north.
and east Santiago de Cuba give rise to many rivers, the most re-
markable of which are the Cabanas, the Yamanigacy, and the
Moa, which in descending the escarpments of the high levels of
the Toar disappear beneath the surface and reappear on a lower
terrace, over the edge of which they are precipitated in cascades
of 300 feet to the coast. Other streams of this region, such as the
Yumuri of the east, find outlet through sharply cut canyons in-
denting the limestone cliffs of the back coast border. The cen-
tral portion of this province is dominated by the Rio Cauto and
its ramifications. This is the longest river on the island, and
_ boo Feet.
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MOUTH OF THE YUMURI OF THE EAST, NEAR BARACOA, SHOWING ELEVATED TERRACES
3
e Pe
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aS
NAT.GEOG. MAG.
VOL.1X,1898,PL.6.
BANCOS DE LOS
de AROINES Y JARDINILLOS
ae, =
YSLE DE PINOS
ANS ae
Cow B A
COMPILED FROM BEST KNOWN AUTHORITIES
BY ROBERT T. HILL
SCALE Cit Zo ne SMILES
1898
HS.SELOEN,DEL.
Vai ae
“AWENA ESPERANZA
MANZANI
A A NR NN AER SA i i
po alr ain od et eenty
CUBA 209
flows in a westerly direction for a distance of 150 miles, drain-
ing the wideand fertile valley to which its nameisapphed. This
stream is navigable for small boats for a considerable distance
(80 to 100 miles), but its mouth has been obstructed by bars.
FLORA
The surface of the island is clad in a voluptuous floral mantle,
which, from its abundance and beauty, first caused Cuba to be
designated the Pearl of the Antilles. In addition to those intro-
duced from abroad, over 3,350 native plants have been catalogued.
Humboldt said, “ We might believe the entire island was origi-
nally a forest of palms, wild limes, and orange trees.” The flora
includes nearly all the characteristic forms of the other West
Indies, the southern part of Florida, and the Central American
seaboard. Nearly all the large trees of the Mexican Tierra Ca-
lente, so remarkable for their size, foliage, and fragrance, reap-
pear in western Cuba. Over 80 species of palm, including the
famous royal palm (Oreodoxa regia), occur, while the pine tree,
elsewhere characteristic of the temperate zone and the high alti-
tudes of the tropics, is found associated with palms and mahog-
anies in the province of Pinar del Rio and the Isle of Pines,
both of which take their names from this tree.
Among other woods are the lignum vite, granadilla, the cocoa
wood, out of which reed instruments are made, mahogany, and
Cedrela odorata, which is used for cigar boxes and linings of
cabinet work.
Although 3800 years of cultivation have exterminated the for-
ests from the sugar lands of the center and west, it is estimated
that in the hills of those districts and the mountains of the east
nearly 15,000,000 acres of uncleared forest remain.
Rich and nutritious grasses are found throughout the island,
affording excellent forage for stock. The pineapples, manioc,
sweet potato, and Indian corn are indigenous to the island.
When the flora of Cuba is studied geographically, it will doubt-
less be divided into several subdivisions.
CLIMATE
Climatologic records are not available, except for Habana, and
these are not applicable to the whole island, where it is but nat-
ural to suppose that the altitudes and position of the high moun-
tains produce great variations in precipitation and humidity,
15
MATANZAS
PALMS ON SUGAR ESTATE
OF
AVENUE
CUBA 211
such as are observable in adjacent islands. The Sierra Maestra
probably presents conditions of temperature very nearly the
same as the Blue mountains of Jamaica, where the thermometer
at times falls almost to thé freezing point.
Everywhere the rains are most abundant in summer, from
May to October—the rainy season. As a rule, the rains, brought
by the trade winds, are heavier and more frequent on the slopes
of the eastern end. At Habana the annual rainfall is 40 inches,
of which 28 inches fall in the wet season. ‘This rainfallis not ex-
cessive, being no greater than that of our eastern states. The
air at this place is usually charged with 85 per cent of moisture,
which under the tropical sun largely induces the rich mantle of
vegetation. ‘The average number of rainy days in the year is
102. There is but one record of snow having fallen in Cuba,
namely, in 1856.
At Habana, in July and August, the warmest months, the
mean temperature is 82° Fah., fluctuating between a maximum
of 88° and a minimum of 76° ; in the cooler months of Decem-
ber and January the thermometer, averages 72°, the maximum
being 78°, the minimum 58°; the mean temperature of the year
at Habana, on a mean of seven years, is 77°; but in the inte-
rior, at elevations of over 300 feet above the sea, the thermom-
eter occasionally falls to the freezing point in winter, hoar frost
is not-uncommon, and during north winds thin ice may form.
The prevailing wind is the easterly trade breeze, but from No-
vember to February cool north winds (los nortes, or “ north-
ers ’’)—the southern attenuation of our own cold waves—rarely
lasting more than forty-eight hours, are experienced in the west-
ern portion of the island, to which they add a third seasonal
change. From 10 to 12 o'clock are the hottest hours of the day ;
after noon a refreshing breeze (la virazon) sets in from the sea.
In Santiago de Cuba the average is 80°; that of the hottest
month is 84° and that of the coldest 73°. R
The whole island is more or less subject to hurricanes, often
of great ferocity. The hurricane of 1846 leveled nearly 2,000
houses in Habana and sank or wrecked over 300 vessels. In
1896 the banana plantations of the east were similarly destroyed.
EKarthquakes are seldom felt in the western districts, but are
frequent in the eastern.
All in all, the climate of Cuba is much more salubrious than
it has been painted. The winter months are delightful—in fact,
ideal—while the summer months are more endurable than in
212 CUBA
most of our own territory. The current impressions of insalu-
brity have arisen from an erroneous confusion of bad sanitation
with the weather. While it is true that sickness follows the
seasons, the former would;be greatly allayed—almost abated—
if public hygiene received proper official consideration.
AGRICULTURE
The principal products of Cuba in time of peace are agricultural,
and consist of sugar-cane, tobacco, coffee, bananas, corn, oranges,
and pines, in the order named. The raising of sugar-cane over-
whelmingly preponderates and heretofore has been the mainstay
of the island. This industry originated.in 1523, when a loan of:
4,000 piastres to each person wishing to engage in it was made
by King Philip I. The whole of the vast central plain and much
of the region from the Cauto westward to Pinar del Rio, except
where broken by hills, is one continuous field of cane, which
yielded in 1892-95 1,054,214 tons, valued at $80,000,000, besides .
giving employment to large commercial and transportation in-
terests. The sugar plantations vary in extent from 100 to 1,000
acres, and employ an average of one man to two acres.
The Cuban sugar lands are all upland soils, quite different
from the lowlands of Louisiana, and excel in fertility those of
all the other West Indies, the cane requiring to be planted only -
once in seven years, instead of every year, asin Antigua. ‘The
machinery of the estates up to the outbreak of the present revo-
lution was the finest and most modern in the world. According
to statistics elsewhere presented, this industry has been almost
destroyed within the last three years.
Tobacco, while secondary to sugar, is far more profitable in
proportion to acreage. This product grows well in all parts of the
island, but the chief seat of its cultivation is along the southern
slopes of the Cordillera de las Organos, in Pinar del Rio=the
famous Vuelta Abajo region, which produces the finest article in
the world. Good tobaccos are also exported from Trinidad,
Cienfuegos, and Santiago. ;
In addition to the growth of the leaf, there are dozens of large
cigar factories in Habana, giving employment to thousands of
people of both sexes and all ages. In 1893 6,160,000 pounds
of leaf tobacco and 154,210,000 cigars were exported. Large
exports of baled tobacco are also made from the east end of the
island, most of which is sent to the United States.
Vand TVULINAD — NIVId TVOIdAL
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214 CUBA
Coffee was once extensively exported, but the trees have been
mostly cut down and replaced with sugar-cane, in consequence
of the greater profitableness of that product. The mountain
sides and hill lands of the east are especially favorable for coffee,
and a quality as excellent as that of the famous Blue mountain
coffee of Jamaica can be readily grown. If the island should
ever pass from Spanish hands, this will become a large and
flourishing industry. ‘There is still a considerable quantity of
coffee grown, but it is nearly all consumed locally.
At the beginning of the present revolution the growing of
bananas was a large and important industry,.chiefly in the
vicinity of Nuevitas and Baracoa, at the eastern end of the
island. During the season, from February to December, an
average of a ship load a day was exported from Baracoa. This
fruit was the largest and finest. received in the United States.
It was grown upon mesas and plateaus, and let down over the
precipitous cliffs by wire trolleys.
Capt. John S. Hart, of Philadelphia, who had large invest-
ments in this business and was one of the largest importers of
the fruit into the United States, finding his business destroyed
by the outbreak of the revolution, promptly turned his ships
SO filibusters, and after landing many cargoes of arms and
ammunition was eventually tried and convicted in a United
States court, and is now confined in the Eastern penitentiary,
at Philadelphia. :
Oranges of delicious flavor grow spontaneously in all parts of
the island. No attention is paid to their culture for exporta-
tion, however. Pineapples are grown and exported in western
Cuba and the Isle of Pines: If the island belonged to the
United States, it would undoubtedly become one of the greatest
fruit-growing countries. Mahogany and logwood are also ex-
ported in small quantities.
In the provinces of Santa Clara, Puerto Principe, and Santiago
the cattle industry, owing to the fertile grazing lands, reaches
large proportions, the product being large and fine animals of
Spanish stock. Horses are also bred in all parts of the island.
The Cuban horse is a stout pony descended from Andalusian
stock, with the build of a cob and a peculiar pacing gait which
renders it an exceptionally easy riding animal. Goats and sheep
do not flourish in Cuba, the wool of the latter changing into a
stiff hair like that of the former. Poultry flourishes everywhere
and was abundant in all markets.
CUBA 215
In addition to the large estates of the planters, the island pos-
sesses many small farms of less than 100 acres, devoted to pro-
ducts for which there is a demand in the local markets. In 1895
there were over 100,000 farms, ranches, and plantations, valued
at $20,000,000.
MINERALS
The mineral resources of the island are iron ores, asphaltum,
manganese, copper, and salt. A little gold and silver were mined
in past centuries, but never in large quantities. The silver mines
of Santa Clara yielded in 1827 140 ounces to the ton, but were
soon worked out. The iron mines situated in the mountains a
few miles east of Santiago de Cuba are of importance. The pro-
duction of the Juragua Iron Company in 1890 was 562,068 tons,
and constituted one-fourth of the total importation of iron ores
into the United States for the same period. These mines were
owned by an American company, which had invested extensive
capital in them, but the production has been almost destroyed
by the present revolution. The ores are mineralogically peculiar,
being the result of replacement in limestone. They are mixed
brown and red hematite (turgite).
Asphaltum (chapatote) of unusual richness occurs in several
parts of the island, in the beds of late Cretaceous and early Eocene
age. At Villa Clara occurs an unusually large deposit of this
material, which for forty years has supphed the material for
making the illuminating gas of the city. American investors
bought these mines the year preceding the revolution, and their
investment up to date, which would otherwise have been profit-
able, has proved a total loss.
Copper of extraordinary richness has been worked on the lee-
ward side of the Sierra Maestra range, 12 miles from Santiago de
Cuba. In former years these mines yielded as high as 50 tons
perday. Current report asserts that they are still very valuable,
but are awaiting the return of peace and development. Salt of
great purity is found in the cays adjacent to the north coast.
No manufacturing industries except those of tobacco and
sugar have been encouraged, the persistent policy of Spain hav-
ing been to promote the importation of manufactured articles
from the mother country. In the writer’s travels over the island
only a single industrial establishment was seen, namely, a mill
at Baracoa for extracting oil from cocoanuts and making soap.
216 CUBA
HARBORS
The narrowness of the island and the abundance of good har-
bors make nearly all parts of it convenient to maritime trans-
portation. Perhaps no country in the world is so blessed with
harbors. Not only are they very numerous, but many of them
are excellent and afford convenient outlets for the products of
J \
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GEOLOGY OF MATA BAY, A TYPICAL HARBOR
1. Elevated reef-rock forming entrance to harbor
2. Yellow beds of Bowden formation
3. Hard white limestones (Vicksburg)
CUBA 217
the island and easy access for oceanic and coastal transportation.
These harbors are nearly all pouch-shaped inlets indenting the
coast, with narrow outlets pointed by elevated reef rock and
capable of accommodating large numbers of vessels. ‘They are
so conveniently situated as regards different portions of the
island that the trade of Cuba may be said literally to pass out at
a hundred gates. The chief of these harbors are Habana, Ma-
tanzas, Nuevitas, Gibara, Nipe, and Baracoa, on the north coast,
and Guantanamo, Santiago de Cuba, Manzanillo, Trinidad, and
Cienfuegos, on the south. ‘The last mentioned is said to be one
of the finest harbors in the world. Habana, Cienfuegos, and
Santiago are regularly visited by American and Spanish steam-
ers, while coastal steamers circumnavigate the island, touching
at the minor ports, which are also sought by many tramps and
sailing vessels in search of cargoes.
SHIPPING
The shipping trade, both foreign and coastal, is extensive, the
American tonnage alone amounting to 1,000,000 per annum.
About 1,200 ocean vessels, steam and sail, annually clear from
Habana, while the sugar crop finds an outlet at all the principal
ports. Lines of steamers coast the island, the north coast being
served by lines from Habana and the south by lines from Bata-
bano, the southern entrepot of Habana. The tonnage of Ha-
bana and eight other ports for 1894 amounted to 3,538,539 tons,
carried by 31,181 vessels.
RAILWAYS
The railways aggregate less than 1,000 miles of line, and con-
sist principally of the united system of Habana, extending
through the tobacco and sugar districts of the west and center,
and connecting the capital with Matanzas, Pinar del Rio, Bata-
bano, Cienfuegos, and Sagua, the system terminating at Santa
Clara, 150 miles east of Habana. The entire half of the island
east of Cienfuegos and Sagua is dependent upon water com-
munication, although several short local lines extend interior-
ward from Nuevitas, Remedios, and Santiago.
There were about 2,810 miles of telegraph line in 1895, includ-
ing nearly 1,000 miles of cable, connecting the cities of the south
coast and the Isle of Pines with Habana, via Batabano.
218 CUBA
HIGHWAYS
Good highways are both short and few. In past centuries a.
few good roads were established of the class called Camino el Rey
(the King’s highway), leading from Habana into Pinar del Rio
and from a few interior cities to their entrepots. Aside from these
roads, which were absolute necessities, the government has con-
structed no highways leading into the country through or around
the island, and hence inland communication is much impeded.
Had a more far-sighted policy of road construction been under-
taken, such as has been carried out by England in the adjacent
island of Jamaica,* Spain would have been in no danger of
losing her colony, the lack of good military roads having been ,
one of the factors which have made possible the success of the
present revolution.
- Although Cuba is so situated geographically as to command
the commerce of the entire American Mediterranean, trade and
communication with the adjacent regions, other than Mexico,
have neither been cultivated nor encouraged. ‘To reach any of
the adjacent islands, such as Haiti or Jamaica—each less than
100 miles distant—it is usually necessary for the Cuban to pro-
ceed first to New York and thence to his destination. <A per-
petual quarantine appears to exist against the island on the
part of all its neighbors. The completeness with which Cuba
is isolated commercially is illustrated by the fact that not even
the Habana cigar, the most far-reaching of its products, can be
found in a single Caribbean city.
e
CITIES
Habana, which bears upon its escutcheon “ Llave del Mundo,”
the “ Key of the New World,” is the political capital and prin-
cipal city of Cuba. It is situated mainly on the west and south
sides of a capacious harbor and surrounded by eminences ris-
ing to 150 feet in height. Itis a picturesque and beautiful place,
presenting, even in the midst of the most horrible tragedy of the
cénturies, the gay appearance of a Huropean city. In fact, in
population, interest, customs, and dominant political feeling
the city (being the seat of the foreign government which rules
the island) is thoroughly Spanish, and in this sense is entirely
* Jamaica, while only one-tenth the size of Cuba, possesses over 2,00) miles of superb
highway, affording easy communication to every part of the island.
AVG SVZNVIVH
220 CUBA
unrepresentative of the local customs and sentiments of pro-
vincial Cuba. Its commerce is ordinarily enormous, while
large pleasure drives, parks, clubs, and public institutions give 1t °
picturesque variety. Conspicuous among notable objects are the
wharves, fortifications, hospitals, the university, the botanical
garden, government palaces, and several churches, including the
cathedral, which claims to possess, like Santo Domingo, the re-
‘mains of Columbus. This city was founded early in the 16th
century (about 1519) nearly 100 years before the first coloniza-
tion of our seaboard. Until recently it was badly supplied with
water, and its sewerage is still abominable. In 1895 a modern
system of waterworks was installed by New York engineers, who
also prepared plans for the solution of the sewerage problem.
The foreign trade of Habana amounts to $50,000,000 yearly,
and is chiefly carried on by American steamers. From the city
radiate several lines of railway, which bring to it the products
of the interior. The only cable connection with the United
States is made here.
West of Habana there are several small ports, such as Mariel,
Cabanas, and Bahia Honda, which are similar in their forma-
tion to that of Habana, but are places of secondary importance.
South and east of the city were flourishing places, the largest of
which is Guanabacoa, crowning a hill which commands a fine
panoramic view of the capital. its roadsteads and environments.
Habana has easy access to the south coast by rail, terminating
at the miserable village of Batabano, 25 miles distant, which is
an entrepot for the city. Here the coastal cable from Santiago
touches and from this point radiate various lines of steamers
along the coast and to the Isle of Pines.
The second city and seaport of central Cuba is Matanzas, about
75 miles east of Habana. This city was founded in 1693. It is
the chief outlet for that part of the sugar region which stretches
south and east toward Cardenas, and which includes the most
fertile lands in Cuba. The harbor, like many others, through the
laissez faire policy of the Spanish government, has been allowed
to fill with sediment, and hence the larger steamers are obliged
to load in the roadstead.*
Cardenas, founded in 1828, is one of the few towns of Cuba
which can boast of having been born in this century. It les on
*In view of the strategic importance which Matanzas is assuming in the campaign
which has opened since this article was written, the several illustrations given of this
vicinity will prove of interest.
CUBA 221
ay Xi
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MATANZAS BAY AND YUMURI VALLEY
a spacious bay sheltered by a long promontory. Itis one of the
principal sugar-ex porting places of Cuba, and is connected by rail
with Habana, and by regular steamers with all the coast towns.
Kast of Cardenas for a considerable distance life and industry.
are shifted from the northern to the southern seaboard toward
Cienfuegos and Trinidad.
Cienfuegos is a modern place, situated on a magnificent harbor.
Although surveyed by Ocampo in 1508 and spoken of by Herrera
as a haven unrivaled in the world, the town was only settled in
1819 by refugees from Santo Domingo. Within the past twenty
years its port has increased enormously. It is now the second
seaport in the island.
Trinidad, to the east of Cienfuegos, dates from the first years of
the conquest, and has no fewer than three harbors and an excel-
lent roadstead. It suffered largely from the incursions of the
French and English buccaneers. The city has a picturesque set-
ting, surrounded by high hills and mountains. 2
Kast of Trinidad, which is near the central meridian of the
island, important cities begin to appear in the interior, such as
Santa Clara, Esperanza, Puerto Principe, and Holguin. These
€
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22 CUBA
places are the most truly Cuban and representative in their popu-
lation of any towns on the island.
Santa Clara is a beautiful city, dating from previous centuries,
and surrounded by charming scenery. It possessed, the year
before the revolution, a cultured creole* population. The insur-
rection has raged most fearfully around this place, and it is prob-
able thatits most representative people have been largely driven
away or destroyed.
Camaguey, as the Cubans call the town, or Puerto Principe,
as it is officially designated, although remote from the seacoast,
is the chief interior city of Cuba, and claims to be the most creole
of Cuban towns. The city hes on a plain about midway be-
tween the two coasts, and is connected by rail with Nuevitas to
the northeast.
In the basin of the Cauto, Bayamo is the principal place. This
is a very old town, which was founded on a southern affluent of
the main stream during the first years of the conquest. It was
at Yara, a httle southwest of this place, that the great republican
rising took place in 1868. The next year, when the Spanish
troops made their appearance, the inhabitants themselves set fire
to their houses. During the present revolution Bayamo has been
an important stronghold. Holguin, lying to the northward of
the Cauto, is also an important city of this portion of Cuba.
Returning to the northern seacoast, several important péints
remain to be described east of the central meridian of the island.
Without considering the innumerable smaller landings, the
principal towns are Nuevitas, Padre, Gibara, Banes, Nipe, and
Baracoa. These are all antique and interesting places, pos-
sessing many old ruins and fortifications. Baracoa, the eastern-
most port of the north coast of the island, is of historic interest,
inasmuch as it is the oldest continuous settlement of the New
World, having been settled by Diego Columbus, the son of Chris-
topher, in the year 1511.f The inhabitants still point with pride
to the ruins of his house. It will also go down in history as the
point near which, on the 25th of February, 1896, Antonio Maceo
and his valiant band of nineteen followers, by a most daring and
successful landing, started the present revolution, and from which
within a year’s time he marched to the western extremity of the
* The word creole, as used in this paper, means white descendants of the Latin races.
The impression on the part of some people that the word implies a mixture of negro
blood is an ignorant and, to the creole, an insulting mistake.
7 In the illustration the date is erroneously given as 1508.
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224 CUBA
island, winning battle after battle, and was only checked by
treachery and assassination. Baracoa at the beginning of the
present revolution was again becoming an important commer-
cial city, being the seat of the banana and cocoanut trades.
Returning again to the south side of the island, there are three
ports of importance east of Trinidad, and these are all situated
on the south or west coast of the Sierra Maestra peninsula. The
westernmost of these is Manzanillo. This is the chief outlet of
the fertile valley of the Cauto. Since the close of the ten years’
revolution and up to the recent outbreak it was acquiring an in-
creasing trade in tobacco, sugar, wax, honey, and other produce.
Santiago, as it is called by the Americans, Saint Jago or sim-
ply Cuba by the natives, is a port second only to Habana in
strategic and political importance. It is the capital of the east-
ern department as well as its most flourishing seaport. It is lo-
cated on one of the many pouch-shaped harbors which outlet
to the sea through a narrow gateway, like that of Habana, but
with an entrance dotted by many islands with handsome villas.
At its narrowest part this outlet is only 180 yards wide, but it
gives access to a magnificent basin, with many indentations, large
enough to accommodate all the shipping of the island. Its
many-colored structures, promenades, gardens, and superb pros-
pects over the valley make Santiago one of the most marvel-
ous cities of the Antilles. The town is well fortified and has
been practically the only stronghold of the Spanish authorities
in eastern Cuba during the present revolution. Back of the city
the overtowering cliffs of the Sierra Maestra separate it from
the interior. Several lines of railroad run from the city to the
iron mines, 16 miles east, where Pennsylvania capitalists were
employing nearly 2,000 hands at the date of the recent outbreak.
The city is the telegraphic center from whence radiate the sub-
marine coastal cables of the island for the western department,
Mexico, Jamaica, South America, Haiti, Porto Rico, and the
Lesser Antilles.
INHABITANTS
Perhaps there is no question upon which the American people
are so ill informed as upon that of the population of Cuba.
Itis impossible to obtain accurate statistics, owing to the fact that
no reliable census has been taken by the government for many
decades. Allfigures which may be presented are merely estimates,
and great variation is found in those given by different authorities.
Vad00 Ad ODVIINVS OL GAONVULNA LY NOWVOMILIOL ATO
16
226 CUBA
The latest census of Cuba, published December 31, 1887, gives
the population as follows :*
Ieie, @k
Provinces. poacy White. (Colored.| Total. | a ne
race.
Habanda eee 8,610 | 344,417 | 107,511 | 451,928 | 24 | 52.49
Pinar del Rio.... 8.486.| 167,160 | 58,731| 225,891 | 26 | 26.62
Matanzas ....... 14,967 143,169 | 116,409 | 259,578 | 45 17.34
Santa Clara...... 23,083 | 244,345 | 109,777) 354,122 | 8 15.34 _
Puerto Principe. . 32,341 54,232 | 13,557 67,789 | 20 2.10
Santiago de Cuba. 39, 119 157,980 | 114,399) 272,379 | 42 7.76
otal ces. 122,606 | 1,111,303 | 520,384 | 1,631,687 -
| ; Average.| 32 13.31
s
The population of the principal towns has been estimated as
follows:
o Towns. Popa a “| Towns. eo
(@Elabanameneeecee 198,720 | ( Puerto Principe. 46,640
Guanabacoa.... 29,790. | Coatenil) Cienfuegos. .. 27,430
Reolamiae sie: 11,280 ||~~ ~~ ' Santo Espiritu... 32,600
West + Matanzas. ...... 27,000 | | Atala!’ oe so ce - 27,640
Pinar del Rio....| 21,770 || Santiago....... 71,300
Colomenee nn. 20,400 || East .. Holowinges ae 34,760
(Cardenas: 53,680 | Manzanillo....| 23,200
1]
Few realize the important fact that environment is quite as
potent a factor as racial or political conditions in producing the
social status, and nowhere is this great principle more plainly
exemplified than in the West Indies and tropical mainlands,
where adjacent islands present most striking contrasts in the
character and conditions of their populations. The Antiguans,
Barbadians, Barbudans, Martiniques, Jamaicans, Haitians, and
Cubans are socially and racially as distinct from each other as
are the inhabitants of the great countries of Europe. Were it not
for the facts of history, one would believe that each population
was indigenous to its habitat, instead of having been transplanted
from the Old World within four centuries.
Nowhere are these distinctions more apparent than in the four
Antilles themselves, especially as seen in the islands of Cuba,
* Published in No. 3, vol. XI, of the Revista de Cuba.
CUBA 227
Haiti, and Jamaica, the people of which have hardly one trait
in common.
Cuba and Porto Rico are the only two tropical islands where
the white race has become thoroughly acclimated, and Cuba
alone contains ten times more whites of Spanish stock than all
the British West Indies contain whites of English stock.
FOREIGNERS
Of the total population of Cuba about 30,000 are Chinese male
laborers. The Spanish born, not counting the present army of
invasion, probably do not exceed 30,000, while counting all
others there are not over 50,000 Caucasian foreigners. This for-
elgn population, except the Chinese, is engaged in office-hold-
ing, trade, and shipping, and is largely confined by residence to
the cities, which contain fully one-third of the total population.
These foreigners, having no other interest in the welfare of the
country than gain of wealth, and possessing no intention of per-
manent residence, should not be considered in any manner as
representative of the Cuban people, although, alas, their voice
has, in recent political events, almost drowned that of the true.
inhabitants.
To the Cubans the foreign Spaniards are known as Intran-
sigentes, and between the two classes, the governors and the gov-
erned, owing to the despotism of the former, a bitter hatred has
existed since 1812, and has been more strongly accentuated
since the surrender of Zanjon, in 1876, when the rebellious
Cubans laid down their arms under unfulfilled promises of au-
tonomy and local self-government similar to schemes lately pre-
sented.
THE CUBANS
Seventy-five per cent of the native population of the island is
found outside of the Spanish capital of Habana, which, being
the seat of an unwelcome foreign despotism, is no more repre-
sentative of Cuban life or character than is the English city of
Hong-Kong of the rural Chinese. While the Habanese have
had the freest communication with the United States during the
last three years of the revolution, Americans have had little op-
portunity to hear from the true white Cuban population. The
Cubans are mostly found in the provinces and provincial cities,
especially in Pinar del Rio and the eastern provinces of Santa
Clara, Puerto Principe, and Santiago. Although of Spanish
AID SVZNVLVW JO WOVa ‘NONVO TTAWAX
CUBA 229
blood, the Cubans, through adaptation to environment, have be-
come a different class from the people of the mother country,
just as the American stock has differentiated from the English.
Under the influence of their surroundings, they have developed
into a gentle, industrious, and normally peaceable race, not to
be judged by the combativeness which they have developed
under a tyranny such as has never been imposed upon any other
people. The better class of Camagueynos, as the natives are fond
of calling themselves, are certainly the finest, the most valiant,
and the most independent men of the island, while the women
have the highest type of beauty. It is their boast that no Cuban
woman has ever become a prostitute, and crime is certainly al-
most unknown among them.
While these people may not possess our local customs and
habits, they have strong traits of civilized character, including
honesty, family attachment, hospitality, politeness of address,
and a respect for the golden rule. While numerically inferior
to the annual migration of Poles, Jews, and Italians into the
eastern United States, against which no official voice is raised, -
they are too far superior to these people to justify the abuse that
has been heaped upon them by those who have allowed their
judgment to be prejudiced by fears that they might by some
means be absorbed into our future population.
Notwithstanding the disadvantages under which the Cubans
have labored, they have contributed many members to the
learned professions. To educate their sons and daughters in the
institutions of the United States, England, and France has always
been the highest ambition of the creoles of Cuba and Porto Rico.
The influence of their educated men is felt in many countries,
the most distinguished professor of civil engineering, two lead-
ing civil engineers of our navy, and the most eminent authority
on yellow fever in our country belonging to this class. Thou-
sands of these people, driven from their beloved island, have
settled in Paris, London, New York, Mexico, and the West In-
_ dies, where they hold honorable positions in society, and even
the exiles of the lower classes, with their superior agricultural
arts, have been eagerly welcomed in countries like Jamaica, Mex-
ico, and Florida, which hope to share with Cuba the benefits of its
tobacco culture.
These are the people who are the leaders of the movement for
Cuba Libre and who struggled so valiantly to throw off the yoke
of an inferior governing class. No cause in all history has been
230 CUBA
more just than theirs, no self-sacrificing heroism greater, and
yet the world, during all the agitation of the past three years,
has known little of them, so completely have they been cut off
from communication, while such little as has been heard has
had to find its outlet through the stronghold of their enemies.
THE NEGROES
In addition to the white creole population, 32 per cent are
black or colored—using the latter word in its correct signifi-
cation, of a mixture of the black and white. This black popu-
lation of Cuba has been as little understood in this country as
has been the creole, especially by those who have alleged that
in case Cuba should gain her freedom the island would become
a second Haiti. The black and colored people of the island as
a class are more independent and manly in their bearing than
their brethren of the United States, having possessed even be-
fore slavery was abolished on the island the four rights of free
marriage, of seeking a new master at their option, of purchasing
their freedom by labor, and of acquiring property. While the
negro shares with the creole the few local rights possessed by
any of the inhabitants, their social privileges are greater than
here, although a strong caste feeling exists. Miscegenation has
also produced many mulattoes, but race mixture is no more
common than in this country.
The colored people of Cuba belong to several distinct classes.
The majority of them are descendants of slaves imported during
the present century, but a large number, like the negroes of Co-
lombia and the maroons of Jamaica, come from a stock which
accompanied the earliest Spanish settlers, like Estevan, the negro,
who, with the two white companions of Cabeza de Vaca, first
crossed the United States from the Gulf of Mexico to California
in 1528-36. .The amalgamation of this class in the past century
with the Spanish stock produced a superior class of free mulattoes
of the Antonic Maceo type, unlike any people in this country
with which they can be compared.
The current expressions of fear concerning the future relations
of this race in Cuba seem inexplicable. The slaves of the
South were never subjected to a more abject servitude than have
been the free-born whites of Cuba, for they at least were protected
from arbitrary capital punishment, imprisonment, and deporta-
tion without form of trial, such as that to which all Cubans are
SVZNVIVN GNVY YWNVYAVH NOAMGLAE ADVITIA
232 CUBA
still subjected, and the white race of this or any other country
has furnished few more exalted examples of patriotism than the
mulattoes Toussaint L’Ouverture or Antonio Maceo.
The experiences of the past have shown that there is no possi-
bility of Cuba becoming Africanized without constant renewal
by immigration. The 520,000 colored people, one-half of whom
are mulattoes, represent the diminished survival of over 1,000,000
African slaves that have been imported. The Spaniards had the
utmost difficulty in acclimatizing and establishing this race upon
the island. While Jamaica and other West India islands are a
most prolific negro-breeding ground, the race could not be made
to thrive in Cuba.
Those persons who undertake to say what the social conditions
of Cuba would be under independence should look elsewhere than
to Haiti fora comparison. Even were the population of Cuba
black, as it is not, the island of Jamaica would afford a much bet-
ter contrast. This island, only about one-tenth the size of Cuba,
is composed of mountainous lands like the least fertile portion of
Cuba; has a population wherein the blacks outnumber the whites
44 to1; yet, under the beneficent influence of the English colo-
nial system, its civilization is one of which any land might
be proud, possessing highways, sanitation, and other public im-
provements even superior to those of our own country,and such
as have never been permitted by Spain in Cuba. Even though
Cuba should become a second Haiti, which it could not, there
is some satisfaction in knowing, in the light of historic events,
that Haiti free, although still groveling in the savagery which
it inherited, is better off than it would have been had Napoleon
succeeded in forcing its people back into slavery, as he en-
deavored to do.
Another fact which will stand against the Africanizing of Cuba
is that it is highly probable that nearly one-half of these 500,000
colored people have been destroyed during the present insurrec-
tion. A large number of them had but recently been released
from the bonds of slavery, and were naturally the poorer class
of the island, upon which the hardships have mostly fallen, being
generally the field hands in the sugar districts of Habana, Ma-
tanzas, and Santa Clara, where the death rate of the terrible
Weyler reconcentramiento has been greatest. Three hundred
thousand of the 500,000 blacks belonged to these provinces,
and of this number fully one-half have been starved to death.
The population of Cuba has undergone great modification
CUBA 233
since the collection of the statistics given. What changes the
‘deplorable conflict has wrought can only be surmised. Beyond
doubt, however, the population has at least been reduced to a
million inhabitants by emigration of non-combatants, destruc- _
tion in battle, official deportation of suspects and political pris-
oners, and by the reconcentration.
The rural population of the four western provinces of Pinar
del Rio, Habana, Matanzas, and Santa Clara has been totally
obliterated. Estimates of this extermination are all more or less
conjectural, but the Bishop of Habana is authority for the state-
ment that more than 400,000 people have been buried in the con- »
secrated cemetery. |
The shaded portions of the accompanying diagram show the
depopulated portions of Cuba.
RELIGION AND EDUCATION
Cuba is divided into two dioceses, which are the archbishopric
of Santiago de Cuba, containing 55 parishes, and the bishopric
of Habana, containing 144 parishes. No Cuban-born priests are
found in any church of importance. In the cathedral chapter
at Habana there is only one Cuban, and only two natives have
ever obtained any especial preferment—the miter never.
The same oppression obtains in the church as in the state,
the former being used for base ends in thousands of instances,
and against the protest of the authorities at Rome. While nom-
inally Catholics, and so holding that church responsible for
what they do, many Spaniards, in and out of Cuba, are very
poor Catholics in fact, and they do hundreds of things which
the church authorities by no means approve. For example,
the Cuban native who becomes a Roman Catholic priest fares
about as badly as does the Protestant preacher.
There is not a parish on the whole island that supports an
endowed school. Recently there was a crusade against the civil
marriage ceremony. The objection came because of the loss of
fees to the priest. The crusade was led by the Spanish-born
priest, who charges Cubans fees twice as high as he does Span-
iards. Parishes are farmed out on account of profits—not by
the church, but by the Spaniards. No priest gets these desir-
able parishes unless he happens to have been bornin Spain. It
is the Spanish blood that contaminates the church, and not the
church that does the injury. It is partly the Spaniards’ acts in
introducing abuses into the church that brought about the pres-
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CUBA 239
ent insurrection. The insurgents are Catholics and love their
church. The religious condition of the island is as bad as the
political.
Education is still much neglected. The chief educational in-
stitutions are the Habana University, two professional schools,
with meteorological observatories attached, one agricultural
school, and two seminaries. There are several private as well
as public schools, aggregating in all 750 institutions, with some
80,000 students and scholars.
The Habana University is modeled after the Spanish univer-
sities, and its curriculum is chiefly devoted to medicine, law,
theology, and an obsolete system of philosophy. Its entire fac-
ulty was disposed of by imprisonment and banishment last year,
while the students have always been looked upon with a sus-
picion of sedition. The public schools are decidedly few, most
of the better Cubans patronizing the private institutions.
COURTS
Cuba has two high courts; but the captain-general is above
either court, as appears from the royal decree of June 9, 1878,
defining his duties and prerogatives. His power not only over-
rules decisions of all the judicial authorities, including the jus-
tices of the court of judicature, but also enables him to withhold
the execution of any order or resolution of the home government
“whenever he may deem it best for the public interests.”
ADMINISTRATION
Since its discovery Cuba has been a crown colony of Spain,
occupying a relation to that country, so far as the absence of
local selfgovernment is concerned, comparable to that which
Aiaska occupies to this, but governed by military instead of civil
authority. Some of the Spanish islands, like the Canaries and
Balearics, are integral parts of the mother country, having equal
rights with the people of the peninsula. Cuba, however, has
ever been treated solely as a subordinate colony. The central
and absolute authority of the crown has been represented by a
governor, called the captain-general, controlling the land and sea
forces and residing at Habana, and having the right of setting
aside all judgments of the local courts. His authority has been
backed, even in times of peace, by a Spanish soldiery larger than
the army of the United States and with police powers unknown
in this country. In addition to the army of soldiers, there is a
.
236 CUBA
vast horde of subordinate officials, all Spaniards, who collect the
customs and attend to other minor executive duties.
The lower classes of the Habana male population—porters,
draymen, and clerks—are organized into a dangerous and often-
times uncontrollable military force, known as the volunteers,
who, while never having been known to take the field, are a
serious menace to the peace of the city, being feared equally by
the authorities, over whose heads they wave the threat of mutiny,
especially upon any indication of granting reforms, and by the
resident and unarmed Cubans, over whom they hold the threat
of massacre. Up to date the record of this organized mob has
been a series of horrible crimes, such as shooting down a crowd
of peaceable citizens as they emerged from the theater, firing into
the office and dining-room of a hotel, assaulting the residences
of Cuban gentlemen, and in 1871 forcing the authorities to exe-
cute 43 medical students, all boys under twenty, because one of
them had been accused of scratching the glass plate on a vault
containing the remains of a volunteer. Fifteen thousand volun-
teers witnessed with exultation this ignoble execution.
While the primary functions of the government have been to
attend to the prerogatives of the Crown and the collection of rev-
enues, its attention has been largely devoted to the personal en-
richment of the officials through misfeasance and the prevention
of the secession of the island. It has practically ignored the
other functions of government, such as the collection of statistics,
the promotion of education,and the establishment of public works
and proper public sanitation. Few, if any, educational institu-
tions have been erected at public expense; no public highways
have been constructed, nor have any improvements of a public
character been made outside of the city of Habana. Even when
the Cubans have undertaken such improvements, they have been
heavily taxed for the benefit of the Spanish officials. The ad-
ministration of Cuba is and has been since the settlement of the
island an absolute military despotism on the part of the mother
country. At periods, dependent upon the personality of the cap-
tain-general, there have been epochs of peace and prosperity, but
since the middle of the present century the island has been in a
state of insurrection, dormant or eruptive, accompanied by a
growing hatred between the governing and the governed classes,
with constantly increasing restrictions upon the latter. At times
the revolting people were reduced to subjection by promises of
local self-government, which have invariably been broken. -
SVZNVLVIN UVAN ‘AMTIVA INAWOA FHL
238 CUBA
During the present century the Spanish Crown has made vari-
ous pretenses of giving to the inhabitants of the island greater
political privileges, but all of these, down to the latest and pres-
ent autonomy scheme, have been the merest subterfuges, void
of the true essence of local self-government, with a string attach-
ment by which absolute -and despotic power remained in the
hands of the Spanish governor-general. Thus it was that in
February, 1878, the ten years’ revolution was ended by General
Campos. Under the stipulations of the treaty the island was
allowed to be represented in the Spanish Cortes by 16 senators
and 30 deputies; but restrictions were so thrown around their
selection that Cubans were practically debarred from participat-
ing in the choice of these members, notwithstanding that these
so-called representatives were utterly powerless to press any
Cuban measure in the Cortes of over 900 members or to put it to
a vote.
This military despotism has been accompanied by a system of
exorbitant taxation, such as has never been known elsewhere in
the world. This has included at times an average of 40 per cent
on all imports, in addition to taxes upon real estate, the indus-
tries, arts, professions, the slaughtering of meats, and an odious
system of stamp taxes, which even included in its far-reaching
application the affixing of an impost stamp upon every arrival
at a hotel. The processes of possible direct taxation being ex-
hausted, the government even resorted to the establishment of
a most nefarious and contaminating lottery system, which yielded
a profit of $4,000,000 annually.
In 1879 the total revenue collected was about $35,000,000, or
$25 per capita, all of which, except $98,000, was spent—mostly in
the payment of the parasitic horde of intransigente soldiers and
office-holders and the Spanish debt. In addition to the legal
taxation, the commerce is burdened by a system of illegal tax-
ation in the form of bribes, which are necessary to the securing
of any legal action. Little or none of this money was devoted
to education, science, public construction, harbor improvements,
highways, sanitation, or other benevolent purposes, such as
those to which our free government devotes its per capita tax of
$13.65. It isalso a remarkable fact, notwithstanding the extray-
agant taxation, that only about $100,000,000 have been remitted
to the mother country during the past century, most of the rey-
enue having been diverted to maintain the official classes. It is
a common assertion that, with the exception of Martinez Campos,
ee =
CUBA 239
no captain-general has ever returned to Spain after a four years’
intendancy except as a millionaire.
Above all the numerous edicts, decrees, customs, and police
regulations, the fundamental law of the island is the will of the
captain-general, enforced by the following decree of May 28, 1825,
which is still in force :
“His Majesty, the King, our Lord, desiring to cbviate the inconveniences
which might result, in extraordinary cases, from a division of command,
and from the interference of powers and prerogatives of the respective offi-
cers; for the important end of preserving in that precious island (Cuba)
his legitimate sovereign authority and the public tranquillity, through
proper means, has resolved in accordance with the opinion of his council
of ministers to give to your excellency the fullest authority, bestowing
upon you all the powers which by the royal ordinances are granted to the
governors of besieged cities. Im consequence of this His Majesty gives to
your excellency the most ample and unbounded power, not only to send
away from the island any persons in office, whatever be their occupation,
rank, class, or condition, whose continuance therein your excellency may
deem injurious, or whose conduct, public or private, may alarm you, re-
placing them with persons faithful to His Majesty, and deserving of all
the confidence of your excellency ; but also to suspend the execution of
any order whatsoever, or any general- provision made concerning any
branch of the administration, as your excellency may think most suit-
able to the royal service.”’
Under this law, which has been utilized with terrible effect,
misfeasance has developed beyond description and freedom has
been a mockery. Year after year the least liberty of thought or
expression of opinion or suspicion of liberal ideas on the part
of the individual or the press has resulted in imprisonment,
death, or deportation. Furthermore, the elsewhere obsolete
punishment of torture has added horror to the cruelty of this
edict. In’ 1844 over 5,000 people were executed under this law.
During the ten years’ war it is estimated that fully 20,000 people
suffered its enforcement. The official records show that 4,672
people were executed during the first half of that war. The
first act of the Spaniards upon the outbreak of the present rev-
olution was to arrest, imprison, deport, shoot, or otherwise pun-
ish every man who was suspected of disloyalty. This class
included all who were suspected of lability to become revo-
lutionary sympathizers, such as the leading men of the learned
professions—doctors, lawyers, editors, and the faculty of the
University—who during the past three years have been im-
prisoned in the dungeons of Ceuta, Africa, where 730 leading
Cuban citizens are now confined, orupon the Isle of Pines. Many
240 CUBA
women were similarly treated. This process is still in force, not-
withstanding the recent assertion that liberal autonomy has been
granted to Cuba. The following extract from the New York Sun
of April 5, 1898, as I write this article, shows that the force of
this despotic decree has not at all been ameliorated by the pres-
ent farcical autonomous government :
“‘Many arrests are being made in the city among members of the best
families for political causes. Magdalena Pefia Redonda, a well-known
Cuban lady, was put in jail this morning upon a charge of conspiracy
against the government.
“Alfredo Herrera, a young man of an aristocratic family, was arrested
this morning in a house in Industria street upon a charge of rebellion.
It is said that he was leading a band of insurgents near Habana a few
days ago. ;
‘*Pablo Larrinago, Juan Romero, Candido Villaneuva, and others, all
well known persons, also have been arrested, charged with conspiracy
and rebellion.”
The'right of free speech on the part of the individual citizen
has not only been restricted, but the rigorous press law of 1881
requires every editor or manager of a paper to send, duly signed
by him, two copies of each issue to government headquarters and
two other copies to the district attorney as soon as printed, that
it may be seen whether any objectionable remarks are contained
therein. Nearly every publication in Cuba has been suspended
at some time or other, and its editor fined, imprisoned, or de-
ported to the penal colonies.
The American who undertakes to investigate the history of
the Spanish government in Cuba inevitably finds the details too
revolting to be described. Greed, injustice, bribery, and cruelty
have been practiced with such frequency that volumes could be
filled with their horrible details. Above all these, however,
stands the fact that Spain has thrice endeavored to wipe out by
butchery and starvation the entire native population. The first
of these attempts, practiced in former centuries upon the abo-
rigines, was successful. The second attempt was made during
the ten years’ war by Valamaseda, who wrote:
‘“‘ Not a single Cuban will remain on this island, because we shoot all
those we find in the fields, on their farms, and in every hovel. * * *
We do not leave a creature alive where we pass, be it man or animal. If
we find cows, we kill them ; if horses, ditto; if hogs, ditto; men, women,
or children, ditto. As to the houses, we burn them. So every one re-
ceives what he deserves—the men with bullets, the animals with the
bayonet. The island will remain a desert.”’
CUBA 241
The intentions of this officer were only foiled by the arousal
of foreign public sentiment against him, and his replacement
by the humane General Campos, who tried to restore peace.
The third attempt at extermination, a matter of present history,
was made by Weyler, who expressed sentiments as ferocious as
those of Valamaseda. wee
How successfully Weyler’s policy has been partially carried
out can be answered by the graves of a fourth of the population,
which have been recently filled with starved or assassinated
victims of his cruelty. Had not this government raised its voice
and demanded his recall, the sole remnant of the Cuban people
would now have consisted of the soldiers of Gomez.
We have now given in brief the geography, resources, and po-
litical conditions of this island. In all history no other country
has presented such an unfortunate exhibition of misgovernment.
Perhaps ere this article reaches the reader the great government
which stands for the highest type of humanity and whose every
interest—commercial, hygieni¢, and strategic—calls for a cessa-
tion of Spanish misrule, will have made its influence felt and
established a permanent peace upon the island.
SUPPLEMENTAL ‘Note ON THE ISLE OF PINES
The principal of the outlying islands considered geograph-
ically as a part of Cuba is the Isle of Pines, which is situated
about 38 miles south of the coast of Pinar del Rio. his is the
only one of the adjacent islands which is not merely an elevated
reef or mangrove swamp,.and which has a geologie structure
and configuration comparable tothe mainland. Its area of 1,214
square miles is almost equal to the combined area of the other
1,500 islands and islets. ;
The island is circular in outline and almost divided by a
bayou or salty depression into two divisions, the southernmost
of which is a vast clenega or swamp, accupied only by a few fish-
ermen. The main portion of the island is diversified, being dom-
inated by a central ridge of low mountains extending from east
to west, rising to 2,000 feet above the sea. Elsewhere the island
is quite flat, consisting of land which represents a coralline plain
recently reclaimed from the sea.
Steamers from Batabano run to Santa Fé and Nueva Gerona.
The latter place is a very small town at the foot of the hills, with
17
242 THE FLORIDA COAST LINE CANAL
plains of palm trees in its neighborhood, the town itself being
on the ‘‘ Rio de Serra de Casa,” some distance from its mouth.
Santa Fé, which is the prominent place of resort for travelers, is
of itself a miserable congregation of houses on the banks of the
river of the same name, some distance from its mouth, and also
some distance from the steamboat landing. This landing is a
rough wooden wharf, from which carriages and stages ply to
Santa Fé. Immediately in the neighborhood of Santa Fé there
are beautiful drives and walks some distance back, where the
country 1s more rolling and even hilly.
The climate of the Isle of Pines is delightful, the air is pure,
dry, and balmy, and the winds coming from the sea, passing over
pine forests, are gentle and invigorating.
The ‘nih nenms of the island are a very simple, me hearted
set of people and very fond of a chat with strangers. They have
a natural dignity of manner, a courteously hospitable way, as
also a degree of freshness and innocence. ~
For many years a large penal colony has been maintained on
the island, consisting mostly of Cuban revolutionists.
UES se
CAPE MAYCI, EASTERN POINT OF CUBA -
Lowest bench, elevated coral reef; Upper terraces, wave-cut cliffs
Nore.—The date of the landing of Antonio Maceo and the starting of the present
revolution, given on page 222 as February 25, 1896, should be February 20, 1895.
THE FLORIDA COAST LINE CANAL
The Florida Coast Line canal, which has been under construc-
tion since 1889, is now completed from Mosquito inlet to Miami.
Boats of five feet draught traverse semi-weekly the entire dis-
tance from Titusville, on the Indian river, through Lake Worth,
to Palm Beach. ‘Three short cuts complete the canal—two be-
tween Matanzas and Tomoka and one uniting North river with
Pablo creek. Eventually the canal will connect the St John
river with Biscayne bay, rendering possible an inland passage
along the Atlantic coast from Long Island sound to Key West.
THE ORIGIN OF WEST INDIA BIRD-LIFE
By Frank M. CHApMan,
American Museum of Natural History, New York
A study of the origin of the life of any given area involves so
extensive a knowledge of the factors governing the distribution
of life that the ideal theory of the derivation of the fauna of a
region should be based on the detailed reports of a corps of
specialists, each one of whom should state without bias the facts
in the case as they have been determined in his particular sub-
ject. Thus, before attempting to account for the origin of life
in the West India islands, we should receive such reports from
the geologist, hydrographer, climatologist, paleeontologist, zoél-
ogist, and botanist, and no theory can be satisfactory which does
not consider the data presented by these specialists.
Acting on this principle, I offer the following synopsis of
studies of West India bird-life made during the past ten years,
the detailed results of which will be found in earlier papers :*
_ My remarks may be prefaced by the statement that, so far
as its distribution is concerned, our knowledge of the resident
bird-life of the West Indies is essentially complete. Haiti and
San Domingo may hold some ornithological secrets, but our re-
corded information is not likely to receive any material acces-
sions—a condition of affairs for which we have largely to thank
MrC.B. Cory, who has sent collectors to every West India island
and published numerous reports on the results of their work.t
Of the 580 or more birds which have now been recorded from
the West Indies, no fewer than some 305 are endemic. The re-
maining 275 are species of general continental or tropical distri-
bution, or those of the surrounding mainland, about 170 being
migrants from eastern North America, which occur in the West
Indies as winter residents or as transient visitants. Of the 805
endemie species, 293 are land birds, 90 per cent of the resident
land birds being therefore endemic—truly a surprising degree of
specialization when we consider how near several of the islands
*American Naturalist, 1891, pp. 528-539; Bull. Am. Mus. Nat. Hist., iv, 1892, pp. 279-
330; vi, 1894, pp. 8, 9; ix, 1897, pp. 29, 30.
7See his *‘ Birds of the West Indies,’ in The Auk, iii, 1886, pp. 1-59 et seq. ; and “‘ Cata-
logue of West Indian Birds,” published by the Author, Boston, 1892.
243
244 THE ORIGIN OF WEST INDIA BIRD-LIFE
are to the mainland. One family (Todide) and 38 genera are
peculiar. The latter are represented by 96 species, leaving 209
species belonging to genera of North, South, or Central America ;
but for the most part they have no near mainland allies, and in
comparatively few cases tan we point with probable exactness to
their continental ancestors. In other words, taken as a whole,
the endemic birds of the West Indies are widely differentiated
from their parent stock.
Considering now the faunal relationships of the islands inter
se, we find at once that they can be divided into the two groups
of physical geographers—the Greater and the Lesser Antilles.
With the former belong the Virgin islands and St Croix; with
the latter Sombrero, Anguilla, and the other islands east of the
Anegada channel and southward to and including Grenada.
While some genera (e.g., Myiadestes and Quiscalus) are repre- _
sented by more or less closely allied species in both the Greater —
and Lesser Antilles, and while certain species characteristic of
each group (é. g., Margarops, Bellona,and Mimocichla spp.) intrude
to some extent into the other, their avifaunee are quite unlike.
The more distinct West Indian species are found only in the
Greater Antilles. Thus the Todide are represented in each of
the larger islands of the Greater Antilles, but are known in the
Lesser Antilles. In short, the relationships of the avifauna of
these two groups are quite in accord with Mr Agassiz’s statement
that “the Windward islands were probably raised long after the
range of the greater West Indian islands existed * * *”* |
Some 108 resident land birds have been found in the Lesser
Antilles. Sixteen of these are South American, of which thir-
teen occur in the Lesser but not in the Greater Antilles, and
fourteen are West Indian species, which occur in both the
Greater and the Lesser Antilles. Hight genera are peculiar,
whereas in the Greater Antilles twenty-four genera are peculiar.
These eight genera contain seventeen species upon whose origin
we can only speculate. Subtracting them from the eighty-one
endemic land birds, we have left sixty-four species, which may
be grouped according to their apparent relationships as follows:
WO) O62, 3 Sheva nrae Ram ees 2 5. Mig ma a 22
SoutimAmMenieanlo. oe ee ee ee enone 19
WRG LOChRINs sob beehooccccs Leas Lyte Aras ayn ea D5
The South American element here shown to be present in the
Lesser Antilles at once suggests the possibility of a former land
* Three Cruises of the Blake, ii, p. 113, foot-note.
THE ORIGIN OF WEST INDIA BIRD-LIFE 245
connection between these islands and the continent, and with-
out pausing to inquire into minor questions, let us at once pro-
ceed to Grenada, the last.island of the group, in order to learn
to what extent its avifauna has been influenced by its proximity
to the mainland, and espectally to the continental island of
Trinidad.
Some 195 resident South American land birds are known from
Trinidad. Of this number no fewer than sixty-five have been
found in Tobago, which was evidently at one time connected
with Trinidad, but only sixteen have been recorded from Gre-
nada. In Trinidad these birds represent thirty families, in
Tobago twenty-five, and in Grenada but eleven, and these eleven
birds, with one or two exceptions, are members of families hav-
ing wide distribution and extended powers of flight. So far as
their avifauna is concerned, theréfore, there has apparently been
no connection between the Lesser Antilles and the mainland,
and we may regard these islands as zodlogical dependencies of
both South America and the Greater Antilles, from which,
through more or less fortuitous circumstances, their avifauna
has been derived.
Turning now to the Greater Antilles, we may at once dispose
of the Bahamas as oceanic islands of more recent formation
than any of the larger islands or mainland adjacent to them,
from which they have evidently received their life. Only one
genus is peculiar, and with the exception of its single species,
the ancestry of the twenty-five forms peculiar to the Bahamas
-can be traced with more or less certainty, Cuba furnishing the
ereater number of parent forms. The Caymans, about 175 miles
south of Cuba and 200 miles west of Jamaica, present an appar-
ently similar case, most of the fifteen forms peculiar to them
being closely related to Cuban or Jamaican species.
We have left now the four larger islands of the Greater Antilles,
from which 174 of the 303 peculiar West Indian birds have
been recorded. They are distributed as follows :
Jamaica, 66, of which 42 are endemic; Cuba, 68, of which 45
are endemic; Haiti and San Domingo, 56, of which 34 are en-
demic; Porto Rico, 46, of which 25 are endemic.
As I remarked in the paper on the “ Origin of West Indian
Bird-life,” previously referred to: “It will be observed that
although Jamaica is but little larger than Porto Rico, and is
‘more isolated from neighboring regions than any island of the
eroup, it is nearly as rich in endemic species, and has one
246 THE ORIGIN OF WEST INDIA BIRD-LIFE
more peculiar genus than Cuba. The latter island is not only
ten times as large as Jamaica, but its proximity to Florida
has given it at least four forms which have evidently been de-
rived from Florida species. * * * Haiti and San Domingo,
although about seven times as large as Jamaica, have eight
endemic species less, while Porto Rico, nearly as large as
Jamaica and favorably situated for the reception of Lesser
Antillean species, has seventeen endemic species less than
Jamaica, and but one genus is peculiar to the island.
“Tt is evident that, as Wallace has said, the islands ‘ were
not peopled by immigration from surrounding countries while
in the condition we now see them, for in that case the smaller
and more remote islands would be very much poorer, while
Cuba, which is not only the largest, but nearest to the mainland
in two directions, would be immensely richer, just as it really is
in migratory birds.’”? (Distrib. Animals, Am. ed., 11,1876, p. 66.)
These facts in distribution and a study of hydrographic charts
give us some suggestive evidence in regard to a past land con-
nection between the West Indies and the mainland: Thus we-
discover that an elevation of only 100 fathoms would leave but
two channels, the wider 75 miles across, between Jamaica and
the Honduras coast. Wallace, in theory, completely bridged
this gap, connected Cuba with Yucatan, and filled the sea thus
enclosed with land, to which Sclater gave the name “ Preeantil-
lesia;” but,as Mr Agassiz has remarked: ‘“ The deep soundings
(over 3,000 fathoms) developed by the Blake south of Cuba, be-
tween that island and Yucatan and Jamaica, do not lend much
support to the theory of an Antillean continent as mapped out
by Wallace, nor is it probable that this continent had a much
greater extension in former times than now, judging from the
depths found on both sides of the West Indian Islands” (1. ¢.,
p. 116).
While the disproportionately rich avifauna of Jamaica and
the shallow sea between this island and the mainland suggests
the possibility of a continental land connection at this point, the
absence of representatives of certain families of birds from the
Greater Antilles is opposed to the theory of this connection ever
having beencomplete. Thus, with the exception of Hadrostomus
niger in Jamaica and Colinus virginianus cubanensis in Cuba. the
following twelve familes of Mexican and Central American birds
are without representatives in the Greater Antilles: Troglodytide,:
Pipridz, Cotingidee, Dendrocolaptidee, Formicariide, Galbulidee,
TRADE OF THE UNITED STATES WITH CUBA 247
Bucconide, Momotide, Rhamphastide, Cracide, Tetraonide,
Tinamide.
In his list of the birds,of Costa Rica, Zeledon records no less
than 140 species of birds belonging to these families, and their
non-representation-in the West Indies is a fact which cannot be
ignored. Hspecially does their absence become significant when
we consider that with few exceptions they are birds of terres-
trial or sedentary habits, which we should not therefore expect
to find on oceanic islands.
Although in previous papers I have proceeded to theorize on
the facts here presented, I shall on this occasion adhere to the
‘suggestion made in my opening sentence, and with this presen-
tation of the more important results derived from a study of
West India bird-life, leaye the larger questions involved until
we are in possession of the reports of other specialists.
TRADI Ole Welle ONIN) SWE S MMs Clues:
The trade of the United States with Cuba reached its high-
water mark in 1892-93, when it amounted to $102,864,204, the
ratio of imports to exports being approximately as 10 to 3. -
This total was almost.equal to that of our entire Asiatic trade,
was nearly four times that of our trade with China or Japan,
and thirteen times that of our trade with Russia, while it even
exceeded the grand total of that with Austria-Hungary, Russia,
Sweden and Norway, Denmark, Turkey. Greece, Italy, Switzer-
land, and Portugal combined. Nor does this contrast derive its
strength mainly from the largeness of the imports. The exports
themselves, products of our own country, were nearly twice as
great in point of value as our exports to Italy, over three times
as great as those to China and Japan combined, nearly six times
as great as those to Sweden and Norway, and over ten times as
great as those to Russia; they amounted to almost half as much
again as our total exports to Asia, and even exceeded our total |
exports to South America, exclusive of Brazil.
So much for the aggregate. What of the different items of
which it. is composed? These may best be considered in detail
if presented in tabular form, and the accompanying tables will
accordingly show the principal imports into the United States
from Cuba and the principal exports of domestic merchandise
NITED STATES WITH CUBA
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TRADE OF THE UNITED STATES WITH CUBA 249
from the United States to that island for the ten years ending
June 30, 1897.
The principal article im/ported is sugar, the largest importation
of which was in the fiscal’ year 1893-94, when it amounted to
949,778 tons of 2,240 pounds, or over one million tons of 2,000
pounds. This was equivalent to 30 pounds or more per capita
of our population, and constituted about one-half of our total
consumption. The next item in importance is tobacco, the im-
ports of which reached their highest figures in 1895-96, when
they amounted in point of value to considerably more than one-
third of the total value of our own tobacco crop. The only other
class of imports that calls for special mention consists of fruit
and vegetables, which had a value in 1892-93 of nearly two and
one-half million dollars. ”
The principal articles of export are, as will be seen from the
table, meats, breadstuffs, and manufactured goods, the trade in
all of which articles was rapidly assuming very large dimensions
at the outbreak of the insurrection. Coal, coke, and oils were
also exported in considerable quantities ; indeed, so diversified
were our exports that there is no considerable section of the en-
tire country that was not to a greater or less degree benefited
by the market for our agricultural, mineral, and manufactured
products that existed in Cuba.
Between 1893-’94 and 1896-97, however, our imports from
Cuba suffered a decline of 75.7 per cent, and our exports to the
island a decline of 61.7 per cent, the imports being reduced to
less than one-fourth and the exports to little more than one-third
of their previous volume. “During the first year of the insurrec-
tion our trade fell off over thirty million dollars, during the
second year a further sum of eighteen million dollars, and dur-
ing the third year a still further sum of twenty-one million
dollars, making a total decline of sixty-nine million dollars in
the annual value of our foreign trade, and of a branch of it,
moreover, that is carried almost entirely in American bottoms.
Is it any wonder that, entirely aside from the humanitarian
considerations that have prompted the United States govern-
ment to seek to put an end to the unfortunate conditions so
long prevailing in the island, some justification for such inter-
vention should-have been found in the well-nigh total paralysis
of our commercial relations with that once extensive and profit-
able market?
i. Jel.
CAPTAIN - CHARLES! DieSIGSBEER UNS. N:
Captain Charles Dwight Sigsbee, U.S. N., whose portrait forms
the frontispiece of this number of the magazine, was born July
16, 1845,in New York. Hegraduated from the Naval Academy
in 1863 and served throughout the Civil War; was on board the
Monongahela at the battle of Mobile bay, and in the Fort Fisher
fights. In 1868 he was made a Lieutenant-Commander. In
1874 he was placed in command of the Blake, and during the
succeeding four years was engaged in deep-sea exploration in
the Gulf of Mexico and the Gulfof Maine. During part of this
time Prof. Alexander Agassiz was upon the Blake directing the
deep-sea dredgings. .
Almost immediately after taking command of the Blake, Sigs-
bee instituted improvements in instruments for deep-sea sound-
ing, and virtually designed a new machine for that purpose,
which has since been adopted all over the world. The results
of the deep-sea soundings made by the Blake under his com-
mand were published as an appendix to the report of the U.S.
Coast and Geodetic Survey for 1880, under the title “ Deep Sea
Sounding and Dredging. A Description and Discussion of the
Methods and Applhances used on board the Coast and Geodetic
Survey Steamer Blake.” This work has proved valuable in
many ways, especially with reference to the intricate problems
involved in the study of the Gulf stream. The report is a com-
prehensive and standard treatise on deep-sea exploration.
For several years prior to taking command of the Maine Cap-
tain Sigsbee was Hydrographer of the Navy Department. While
thus in charge of the Hydrographic Office he developed many
improvements tending to simplify and strengthen the data and
material furnished the marine from both the practical and sci-
entific sides. During his detail in charge of the Hydrographic
Office Captain Sigsbee was a member of the U.S. Board on Geo-
graphic Names.
Captain Sigsbee’s contributions to our knowledge of the sea
bottom and its topography place him in the front rank of sci-
entific hydrographers. As a naval officer and an American the
events of the past two months have shown what manner of man
he is.
Jak Ge
250
RECEL MON TO: CAPTAINVG. “De SIGSBEE “U.S. N:
Not only has the name of Captain Charles D. Sigsbee become
a household word throughout the length and breadth of the
United States as that of the gallant commander of the ill-fated
battleship Maine, but Captain Sigsbee himself, by the admirable
self-restraint and judicial temper which he displayed in the most
trying of all conceivable circumstances, has won “* golden opin-
ions from all sorts of people.” In addition, however, to being a
brave officer, a true patriot, and a just man, he has distinguished
himself, as shown in the preceding article, by his valuable con-
tributions to hydrographic science, so much so, indeed, that his
position in the scientific circles of the National Capital is as well
recognized and assured as‘his standing as a naval officer.
It was eminently fitting, therefore, that the National Geo-
eraphic Society, of which Captain Sigsbee has long been an
active member, should take advantage of his recent return to
Washington to do him honor. Immediately on his arrival the
following letter was addressed to him by President Alexander
Graham Bell:
Wasnineton, D. C., March 30, 1898.
Captain Cuarues D. Stasper; U.S. N., Washington, D. C.
My Drar Str: You have earned the gratitude of America by your noble
conduct in a great and terrible emergency, when your prompt, energetic,
and wise action held in check the popular excitement which threatened
to precipitate war between friendly nations.
The citizens of Washington are, one and all, anxious to greet the brave
Commander of the Maine.
Your fellow-members of the National Geographic Society especially, to
whom you have so long been known as a scientific hydrographer, desire
to grasp you by the hand and welcome you back to the city once more.
On behalf of the National Geographic Society, allow me to tender you
a reception, to be held in the parlors of the Arlington Hotel on Saturday
evening, April second, from nine to eleven o’clock.
lam, my dear sir, yours respectfully,
ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL,
President National Geographic Society.
To this invitation Captain Sigsbee responded as follows :
‘ Wasuineton, D. C., March 30, 1898.
Professor ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL,
President National Geographic Society, Washington, D. C.
My Dear Sir: In acknowledging the receipt of your letter of today,
wherein the members of the National Geographic Society tender me a
251
252 RECEPTION TO CAPTAIN C. D. SIGSBEE, U. S. N.
reception on Saturday to meet my associates of the Society as well as
other residents of Washington, I beg to thank you sincerely for the kind
sentiments which you express. The honor which the Society proposes
for me I accept most gratefully, not alone for the good will towards my-
self, but also because the occasion will reflect honor on those who served
with me on board the Maine at Havana. ‘
To come out of so great a disaster with honor and to have the fact con-
firmed in so positive a manner is a satisfaction that lies nearest the heart
of every survivor of the Maine.
With full appreciation ef your offer, which.please express to the
Society, I am,
‘Yours most sincerely and most respectfully, -
C. D. SiasBer,
Captain, U. S. Navy.
Three days later—namely, on the evening of Saturday, April
2—the parlors of the Arlington Hotel were crowded with one of
the most brilliant and distinguished, assemblages ever brought
together in the National Capital, the President of the United
States, the Vice-President and Mrs Hobart, and an exception-
ally large gathering of statesmen, diplomatists, scientists, mili-
tary and naval officers of high rank, and other distinguished
persons to the number of 1,660 uniting to do honor to the So-
ciety’s guest, to whom each of them was presented by President
Bell.
Rarely has a purely scientific society performed a function so
entirely en rapport with public sentiment and been so truly
“national” in any of its doings. Everything conspired to give
a national character to the occasion. In addition to the attend-
ance of the Chief Magistrate of the Nation and of a gathering in
which few states of the Union and few departments of the na-
tional life were not specially represented, a guard of honor was
furnished by the U.S. Marine Corps, whose band, stationed in
the ball-room, performed a selection of patriotic music, under
special orders from the Seéretary of the Navy, while the brilliant
salons set apart for the occasion were decorated with the hand-
somest national flags and emblems the resources of the govern-
ment could furnish:
ae sl,
GEOGRAPHIE LITERATURE
Rand-MeNally War Atlas, with Marginal Index. Pp. 16. Chicago and
New York: Rand, McNally & Co. 1898. 25 cents.
Bulletin of the Department of Labor. No. 16. May, 1898. Pp. 216.
Washington, 1898.
Statistical Abstract of the United States. 1897. Twentieth Number. Pre-
pared by the Bureau of Statistics, Treasury Department. Pp. xii + 412.
Washington, 1898.
It was surely a happy thought on the part of Rand, McNally & Co. to
select from one of their high-priced atlases a series of maps of those por-
tions of the world to which public attention is being directed in connection
with the war with Spain, and to place them within the reach of every one
by binding them up together for sale at 25 cents. The atlas is everything
that can be desired, in its way. It is marvelously cheap, and cannot fail
to have an enormous sale.
The May bulletin of the Department of Labor is largely devoted to a
report on The Alaskan Gold Fields and the Opportunities they offer for
Capital and Labor, by Mr Sam. C. Dunham, a special agent who was sent
out to the Klondike by the Commissioner of Labor in July last. The re-
port isaccompanied by maps and illustrations and contains much valuable
information. While written in a becomingly dignified style, it is oeca-
sionally enlivened by a vein of quiet humor, which adds greatly to its
readability. Good examples of thisare found in the statement: “If a vis-
itor to the gulches prefers to ride, he can secure a saddle-horse in Dawson
for $60 a day,” and in the author’s description of the proceedings of the
improvised courts, the creation of a justice-loving community that hgs no:
regularly constituted judicial system or officers of the law-
As a compendium of information relative to the population, finance,
commerce, agriculture, mining, railroads and telegraphs, immigration,
education, public lands, pensions, postal service, prices of commodities,
shipping, etc., of the United States, the Statistical Abstract has become
an absolute necessity, not only to all economic writers and students, but
to every one who would keep abreast of the growth of our institutions
and the development of our resources asa nation. The Abstract has been
almost completely transformed under the direction of Mr Worthington O,
Ford, and it is not-easy to see how it could be made more useful, except
by increasing its circulation.
do Tale
Ninth Annual Report.on the Statistics of Railways in the United States for the
year ending June 30, 1896. Prepared by the Statistician to the Inter-
state Commerce Commission. Pp. 709and map. Washington, 1897.
Thisreport follows the same general glan and presents the same technical
excellence that have rendered all the reports prepared by Prof. Henry C.
253,
24 GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
Adams as Statistician to the Interstate Commerce Commission especially
acceptable to all trained statisticians.
The condition of the railway system of the United States on June 30,
1896, and auring the twelve months ending with that date, was about as
follows: The aggregate growth of the railways was 182,776.63 miles, of
which 181,153.77 miles were represented by reports to the Commission.
There were 10,685.16 miles of second track, 990.45 of third track, 764.15
of fourth track, and 44,717.73 of yard track and sidings, making the total
mileage of all tracks 239,140.18. The railway construction during the
period covered was slightly greater than during the fiscal year 1895, but
less than during any other year covered by the statistical reports of the
Commission.
Forty-four corporations operated 103,345.89 miles, or 56.89 per cent of
the railway mileage of the country, the remainder being operated by 1,067
companies, of which 977 operated but 34,497.90, or 18.99 per cent of the
total. Equipment consisted of 9,943 passenger locomotives, 20,351 freight
locomotives, 5,656 switching and other locomotives, 33,003 passenger cars,
1,221,887 freight cars, and 42,759 cars employed in companies’ service.
The passenger service performed was equal to carrying 1,312,381 passen-
gers one mile for each passenger locomotive, and 4,684,210 tons of freight
one mile per freight locomotive, both of these items showing a gratifying
increase in efficiency over the previous year. The resources of the Com-
mission do not permit of the collection of statistics of cars owned by private
companies. The number of employés was 826,620, having increased since
June 30, 1895, from 785,034, but being less than the number employed
on June 30, 1893. The number assigned to general administration was
31,792, to maintenance of way and structures 243,627, to maintenance of
equipment 167,850, and to conducting transportation 373,747, the balance
of 9,609 being unclassified. The average daily compensation of general
officers was $9.19; of station agents, $1.73; of engineers, $3.65; of fire-
men, $2.06; of conductors, $3.05; of section foremen, $1.70; of other
trackmen, $1.17, and of‘switchmen, flagmen, and watchmen, $1.74. The
total amount paid as compensation for labor was $468,824,531, amounting
to 61 per cent of the entire expense of operation, less than 2? per cent of
the amount being paid to general officers. The total railway capitaliza-
tion is reported as $10,566,865,771, and the average per mile of line as
$59,610. These figures are not comparable with those of previous years
for the reason that, at the request of the Association of American Rail-
way Accounting Officers, the continuous codperation of which with the
Statistician has been a source of considerable advantage, ‘‘other forms
of indebtedness,” which in 1895 constituted $616,830,156, or $5,556 per
mile of line of the capital reported, is no longer included. It is especially
notable as a result of the railway financiering incident to the rehabilita-
tion of those companies which have become bankrupt during the recent
depression, that the increase in capital stock during the last two years
has for the first time since the establishment of the Commission exceeded
the increase in funded debt. As success in securing a definite aggregate
profit upon capital stock is not essential, this change makes for perma-
nent financial stability. Another transformation of capital tending in
GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE 259
the same direction is shown by the fact that an increase in income bonds
has been accompanied by an absolute decrease in the amount of mort-
gage bonds. SAU
It is interesting also to observe that of the total stocks and bonds out-
standing those having a par value of $1,501,346,914 are held by railway
corporations. Of the total stock outstanding an amount having a par
value of $3,667,503,194, or 70.17 per cent, paid no dividends, while
$515,029,668, or 11.40 per cent, of bonds was similarly unremunerative to
investors. The percentage of income bonds not receiving interest was
87.96. The total amount paid in dividends on common and preferred
stock was $87,603,371, as interest on funded debt $249, 624,177, and as in-
terest on current liabilities $8,469,063. The public service performed was
equivalent to carrying 13,049,007,233 passengers and 95,328,360,278 tons
of freight one mile. Passenger service showed an increase over the pre-
ceding year, but was lower than that of 1894, 1893, and 1892. The
freight service performed exceeded by more than ten billion ton miles
that of the preceding year and exceeded that of 1893, the highest year
previously recorded.
The total earnings from operation were $1,150,169,376, of which
$266,£62,533 was from passengers, $63,951,481 from mail, express, and
other miscellaneous sources connected with passenger service, $786,615,837
from freight, $3,885,890 from miscellaneous sources connected with freight
service, and $29,153,635 unclassified, or from other operations. The aver-
age revenue per passenger per mile was 2.019 cents, and that per ton of
freight per mile .806 cent, the latter being lower than for any previous
year covered by the reports of the Commission. Operating expenses
amounted to $772,989,044, or 67.21 per cent of the total income from
operation. The average cost of running a train one mile was 93.838 cents,
From the summary of accidents it appears that 181 passengers, 1,861 em-
ployés, and 4,406 “‘other persons” were killed during the year covered
by the report, while 2,875 passengers, 29,969 employés, and 5,840 ‘‘ other
persons ’’ were more or less seriously injured. Comparing these data with
the number of passengers and of employés, it appears that one passen-
ger in every 2,827,474 carried was killed, and one in every 178,132 carried
was injured, while one employé in every 444 was killed and one in every
28 injured. Of the *‘ other persons” killed, 3,811 were trespassers, and
of those injured, 4,468. The statistics of accidents to that class of em-
ployés whose duties involve their presence on running trains are particu-
larly disheartening. They show that during the twelve months covered
by the report one in every 152 of such employés was killed, and one in
every 10 more or less seriously injured. The increased use of safety ap-
pliances does not seem materially to have affected this ratio, and it is to
be doubted whether it will do so until all cars are properly equipped. Of
the 1,333,599 cars in service, 448,854 were equipped with train brakes,
the increase during the twelve montis covered by the report being 86,356,
while the actual increase in the number of cars was 27,339. The number
equipped with automatic couplers was 545,583, being an increase during
the year of 136,727; 9,816 of the 9,943 passenger locomotives in service
256 GEOGRAPHIC SERIALS
were fitted with train brakes, as were also 17,921 of the 20,351 freight.
locomotives, and 3,895 of the 5,656 switching and other locomotives.
Such is the picture of the condition of the railways of the United States
so far as it can be derived from this report, and if it fails to meet in any
way with the reasonable desires of the student of transportation who
seeks a complete numerical. description of the business of interstate trans-
portation of persons and property as conducted in the United States at
the present time, the fault is in no way attributable to the statistician or
to his assistants, but to the inadequacy of the legislation which provides
for the collection of these statistics. The very excellence of the report
from a technical standpoint causes greater regret that those who have had
its preparation in charge have not been intrusted with the collection of
those data which all intelligent students of transportation so seriously
need. No statistical report can adequately present the business of trans-
portation while omitting to deal with the business of express compani s
and that of interstate carriers operating via water routes. Itis also to be
desired that the classification of the data now collected be greatly extended
and the supervision of the accounting of individual roads so perfected as
‘to insure greater definiteness*in the items included.
© H. T. Newcome.
GEOGRAPHIC SERIALS
The Geographical Journal for March contains a summary of Mr Peary’s
explorations in Greenland, under the title of “Journeys in North Green-
land.’? Dr Sven Hedin commences a narrative of his ‘‘ Four Years’
Travel in Central Asia.” Hon. D. W. Carnegie publishes a narrative of
his ‘‘ Explorations in the Interior of Western Australia.”
The Bulletin of the American Geographical Society, No. 1, 1898, offers the
following table of contents: “ Relations of Irrigation to Geography,” by
H. M. Wilson; ‘ From Cairo to Beni Hassan,” the location of some of
the most celebrated tombs of ancient Egypt, by D. Cady Eaton, and
“ Physical Geography of New York State,” the third installment of a
continued story, by Prof. R. 8S. Tarr.
The Journal of the Royal Colonial Institute for March is largely devoted to
a paper by Henry Birchenough on *‘Some Aspects of our Imperial Trade,”
and an extended discussion. It is curious to find an Englishman com-
plaining of the greater cheapness of foreign goods, of the want of adapt-
ability of British manufacturers and traders, the superiority of foreign
methods of pushing trade, and the lower freights of foreign shipping com-
panies, especially when he instances the American as the chief competitor
and as excelling the Briton in these respects. The article is extremely
significant and very suggestive. Another suggestive article is by Mr
Everard R. Calthrop on ‘‘ Light Railways for the Colonies,’’ in which he
rehearses arguments in favor of cheap construction which, while perhaps
new to his readers, have controlled the construction of the entire railroad
system of this country.
Isl, (Gr,
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
Wp
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CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RY.
HE F. F. V. LIMITED is one of the finest trains hauled over any railway track in America. It runs
solid between Cincinnati and New York, the route from Washington being over the Pennsylvania
system. It has every modern convenience and appliance, and the dining-car service has no superior if
it has an equal. The road-bed is literally hewed out of the eternal rocks; it is ballasted with stone
from one end to the other; the greater portion is laid with one-hundred-pound steel rails, and although
curves are numerous in the mountain section, the ride is as smooth as over a Western prairie.
One of the most delightful ridés in all the route is that through the New River valley. The
mountains are just low enough to be clad with verdure to the very top, and in the early spring every
variety of green known to the mixer of colors can be seen, while the tones in autumn take on all the
range from brown to scarlet.
These facts should be borne in mind by the traveler between the Kast and the West.
H. W. FULLER, Gen/. Pass. Agent, Washington, D. C.
OF course you expect to go there this spring. Let
me whisper something in your ear. Be sure that
the return portion of your ticket reads viathe . . .
Northern Pacific-Shasta Route.
Then you will see the grandest mountain scenery in
the United States, including Mt. Hood and [It. Rainier,
each more than 14,000 feet high, [It. St. Helens,
rt. Adams, and others. You will also be privileged
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such wonderful new gold discoveries have been made,
and to Yellowstone Park, the wonderland not only of
the United States, but of the World. Park season
begins June Ist each year. Close railroad connections
made in Union Station, Portland, for Puget Sound
cities and the east, via Northern Pacific.
CHAS. S. FEE,
General Passenger Agent, St. Paul, Minn.
Ms
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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Write for Map Folders.
A. S. THWEATT, Hastern Passenger Agent, 271 Broadway, New York, N. Y.
J. C. HORTON, Passenger Agent, 201 K. Baltimore Street, Baltimore, Md.
L. S. BROWN, General Agent, 705 Fifteenth St. N. W., Washington, D. C.
J. H. WINGFIELD, Passenger Agent, Norfolk, Va.
S. H. HARDWICK, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Atlanta, Ga.
Cc. A. BENSCOTER, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Chattanooga, Tenn.
W. H. TAYLOE, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Louisville, Ky.
J. M. CULP, Traffic Manager. W. A. TURK, General Passenger Agent.
The Mutual Life Insurance Co,
OF NEW YORK,
RICHARD A. McCURDY, President,
Is the Largest Insurance Company in the World.
The Records of the Insurance Department of the State of New
York SHOW THAT The Mutual Life
Has a Larger Premium Income - - - ($39,000,000)
More Insurance in Force - = - - ($918,000,000)
A Greater Amount of Assets - - - ($235,000,000)
A Larger Annual Interest Income - - - ($9,000,000)
Writes More New Business’~ - - - - ($136,000,000)
And Pays More to Policy-holders - ($25,000,000 in 1896)
THAN ANY OTHER COMPANY.
It has paid to Policy-holders since
its organization, in 1848, | - = §$437,005,195.29
ROBERT A. GRANNISS, Vice-President.
WALTER R. GILLETTE, General Manager. FREDERIC CROMWELL, Treasurer,
ISAAC F. LLOYD, Second Vice-President, EMORY McCLINTOCK, Actuary.
WILLIAM J. EASTON, Secretary.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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National Geographic Magazine
Vou. 1X JUNE, 1898 No. 6
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
By F. F. Hinper
To the southeast of the continent of Asia lies a vast archipelago,
of which a considerable portion is occupied by the group called
the Philippine islands, or, in Spanish, Islas Filipinas. Thenum-
ber of islands included under this denomination is not definitely
known, and this uncertainty has given rise to some rather wild
euessing. Some English authorities state the number as six hun-
dred, while a late consular report issued by the Department of
State places the number at two thousand, but this may perhaps
be intended to include the Marianas, or Ladrones, the Carolines,
and the Pelew islands, as all of these are included under the juris-
diction of the governor-general of the Philippines. Some of the
Philippines are mere islets, too small for occupation, but others
are important in size and resources and are very populous. The
principal islands rank according to size in the following order :
Luzon, Mindanao, Palawan, Samar, Panay, Mindoro, Leyto, Ne-
gros, Cebu, Bejol,and Maskato. The northern island, Luzon, on
which Manila, the capital, is situated, is the largest, having an
area of about 41,000 square miles, corresponding in size to the
State of Ohio. Mindanao, the southernmost island, contains
about 37,500 square miles. As no accurate survey of even the
larger islands has ever been made, it is impossible to make a
definite statement as to the aggregate land area of the group, but
the most reliable estimate is 114,556 square miles, which is equal
to the combined area of New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania,
and Maryland.
The islands are situated directly on the line of volcanic energy
which extends from Japan to Java, and volcanic forces have
1&
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Q BALUYAN /S.
2 G
MAP OF VHE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
eee ao
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 259
largely contributed to their formation and shaping, as is testified,
not only by the existence of ‘active voleanoes, but by the still
larger number of mountains which show evidences of former
igneous activity, the traces of its effects on the surrounding
country, and the abundance of thermal springs which are found
in different localities, in which the temperature of the water
ranges from 180° Fahrenheit to the boiling point. Although sit-
uated in a region peculiarly adapted to the growth of corals, they
do not exist toany great extent on the coasts of the Philippines.
Occasional traces, sometimes amounting to a fringing reef, are
met with in favorable places along the west coast of Luzon and
some of the other islands of the group. This scarcity of coral
formation may be accounted for by the presence of volcanic fires
and the occasional deluges of hot water emanating from their
outlets, which prevent the growth of the polyps. All the islands
are generally hilly and mountainous, but none of the summits
much exceed 8,000 feet.in height. The loftiest peaks are, per-
haps, Apo and Malindang, in Mindanao; Halcon, in Mindoro,
and Mayon, in Luzon. The latter is an active volcano, which
has been the scene of several disastrous eruptions within the past
hundred years.
As a consequence of these subterraneous forces, earthquakes
are frequent and violent. An English writer says:
‘“The destructive ravages and changes produced by earthquakes are
howhere more remarkable than in the Philippines. They have over-
turned mountains; they have filled up valleys; they have desolated ex-
tensive plains; they have opened passages for the sea into the interior
and from lakes into the sea.’’..
That this is not an exaggeration is proved by historical rec-
ords, which contain many accounts of such disasters since the
Spaniards first occupied the territory, and proofs that they have
produced great geographical changes.
“Tn that of 1627 one of the most elevated of the mountains of Cagayan
disappeared. In 1675 in the island of Mindanao a passage was opened
to the sea and a vast plain was emerged.”’
The more recent of these convulsions occurred in 1865 and
1880, both of which caused great destruction of property. In
the former the loss of life was greater, but the more massive
buildings in the old city of Manila suffered more during the
latter, the cathedral and many other edifices being completely
wrecked.
260 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
As a result of these repeated experiences, the style adopted in
the erection of buildings, especially of the better class of dwell-
ings and stores, has been modified to meet these emergencies ;
consequently the liability to destruction and damage has been
lessened. The islands are all well watered by rivers, streams,
and lakes. Many of the latter are of large size, particularly the
Laguna de Bay (Bay lake), which nearly bisects the island of
Luzon. Mindanao derives its name from an Indian phrase in-
dicating the abundanée of its lakes. :
NEW CATHEDRAL AT MANILA, WITH RUINED TOWER OF OLD STRUCTURE
By courtesy of Leslie’s Weekly
In consequence of the island of Luzon having the capital and
a very large proportion of the white residents located upon it,
the interior is better known than that of many of the other
islands. Its scenery, although mountainous, is charmingly di-
versified and will compare favorably with any of the countries
of farther Asia. Its large lakes and rivers, broad plains and
fertile valleys, teeming with luxuriant tropical vegetation and
noble forests, add both to its beauties and productive capabilities.
ANIMALS
If a land connection ever existed between the Philippines and
Borneo, the separation must have occurred long ages ago. It
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 261
is true that the strait between them is narrow, but the water is
very deep, and the larger animals included in the fauna of
Borneo are not found in the Philippines, especially the ele-
phant, tapir, and orang-outang. There are no beasts of prey in
the Philippines except a small one—“el gato del monte ””—a
species of wildcat,and even that is not very plentiful. The wild
animals are buffalo—not the. bison of our western plains, mis-
called buffalo, but the East Indian animal—deer, hogs, which
are doubtless descendants of domesticated animals that have
taken to wild life in the woods,and monkeys. There is also re-
port of the existence on the island of Mindoro of a mysterious
animal called tumarao, which the natives describe as a cross be-
tween the buffalo and deer.
The tamed buffalo, called the water buffalo, from its delight
in wallowing in water and mud, is the most useful of the quad-
rupeds and is universally employed in agricultural work and
the transportation of freight, both as a pack and draft animal.
Goats, sheep, dogs, and cats are plentiful. Flying squirrels are
numerous in the forests, and bats of enormous size, frequently
measuring five or six feet from tip to tip of their wings.
Snakes, lizards, and other reptiles abound; also insect pests
of various kinds, among which are the destructive white ants,
mosquitoes, tarantulas, and other spiders of enormous size.
Pigeons and domestic fowls are abundant, and there is an
immense variety of parrots and other wild birds, many of which
are comparatively little known, even by name, to American or
Huropean ornithologists.
CLIMATE
The extreme length of the Philippine group being from north
to south, their northern extremity reaching nearly to the northern
limit of the tropical zone, causes considerable variety of climate,
although the general characteristics are, of course, tropical. On
the western side of Luzon, where Manila is situated, the hottest
season is from March to June, the greatest heat being felt gener-
ally in May, before the rains set in, when the maximum ranges
from 80° to 100° in the shade. The coolest weather occurs in
December and January, when the temperature falls at night to
60° or 65° and seldom rises in the day above 75°; in fact, dur-
ing the months from November to February the sky is bright,
the atmosphere cool and dry, and the weather in every way
delightful.
262 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
Owing to the insular conditions, this region enjoys an advan-
tage which does not extend to tropical continental areas of sim-
ilar elevation—that is, a considerable range in temperature dur-
ing the twenty-four hours, averaging from 10° to 20°, which
frequently affords the relief of a tolerably cool night even in the
hottest season.
The following table of temperature, rainfall, etc., at Manila
has been compiled by Prof. H. A. Hazen, of the United States
Weather Bureau, from observations made at the Observatorio
Meteorologico
de Manila:
Sela AER eS hws :
ised ees : ; 7 = g E g S
= f= rS) = (oD) x 5 vo oz ® ) =
Ae Coll ewes soem Sale sess ll 3
e o e a = 5 5 ® L 2 g a
5 i = < = 5 5 = N S) Z iS) =
Temperature (de- |
grees F.): |
Mean monthly.........) 77} 78 81 83} 84 82 81 81 81 80 79 77 80
Warmest month...... (Ey teil 82 85 87 85 82 82 82 82 81 80 82
Coolest month......... | 78) |) Bb ea BL ON BO WO WON ar) 79
Highest......... ood 91} 96 96 99 | 100 98 95 94 94 95 94 92 100,
DOW Wsacosodssans0Gnash00 60) 61 65 66 71 70 70 69 71 69 63 60 60
Humidity :
Relative, per cent....) 77 73 71 70 75 80 84 84 85 82 80 80 78
Absolute, grains per
CupICHOO Usp ete 7.75 | 7.60 | 7.90 | 8.42 | 9.27 | 9.39 | 9.33 | 9.53 | 9.33 | 9.24] 8.59 | 8.06 8.75
Wind movement in
miles :
iDailiyamleanee-s.s-------- 98| 115 | 132} 145) 144] 138|] 182] 165} 192} 111 94 13 134
Greatest daily.......... 152) 187} 220) 229°) 236] 361] 267) 264) 282) 196} 164] 153 204
Weast dailliyz-.:---1------- 66 72 32 92 68 96 | 110 79 69 48 67 59 95
Prevailing wind di- |
THEO O cpemocceboneaoco0 jam: il) e: @e || Sk@b |) SACS || S35 Shi || Seis Sei |] Tas |] WEL HI TCE NNecoonc320
Cloudiness, per cent...) 45 37 35 32 47 65 74 68 72 58 54 53 53
Days with rain............ 4.3 | 2.2) 3.4] 3.5) 9.2) 15.4).22.1) 19.8) 20.7) 14.4] 11.3) 8.4 135
Rainfall in inches: |
Mean monthly......... 1.15 | 0.47 | 0.65 | 1.11 | 4.30 | 9.68 |14.70 |13.88 |15.01 | 7.47 | 4.92 | 2.09 | 75.4:
Greatest monthly.....| 7.59 | 1.97 | 3.94 5.37 |10.11 |25.81 |29.71 |43.20 |61.43 |23.65 |15.27 |13.67 | 120.98
Least monthly......... 0.02 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.00} 0.00} 0.98 | 5.28 | 5.15 | 2.00 | 0.90 | 1.17] 0.01 | 35.
Rainfall record for 32 years, 1865-1896; remaining data for 17 years, 1880-1896.
The seasons vary with the monsoons or trade winds, which
blow from the northeast from November to April, and from the
southwest from May to October, and produce what are generally
called the dry and wet seasons; but there is no abrupt change
from one tothe other. Between those periods there are intervals
of variable weather.
The Spaniards describe the seasons as—
‘Seis meses de lodo,
Seis meses de polvo,
Seis meses de todo ; ”
six months of mud, six months of dust, and six months of every-
thing.
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 263
The northern islands lie in the track of the typhoons, which
develop in the Pacific and sweep over the China sea from north-
east to southwest during the southwest monsoon. They are
liable to occur at any time between May and November, but it is
in the months of July, August, and September that they are
most frequent. In the early part of the season it is the northern
part of the region subject to these storms that feels their greatest
force. As the season advances they gradually work southward,
so that the most dangerous time in Manila is about the end of
October and beginning of November. They never pass further
south than about 9° north latitude; consequently all the terri-
tory south of that line is exempt from theirravages. Sometimes
the typhoon is of large diameter and travels slowly, so far as pro-
eressive motion is concerned; at others it is of smaller dimen-
sions, and both the circular and progressive motions are more
rapid; but they are always storms of terrific energy, frequently
causing terrible devastation and destruction of crops and proyp-
erty on shore and of shipping on the sea.
Thunder-storms, often of astonishing violence, are of frequent
occurrence in May and June, before the setting in of the south-
west monsoon and commencement of the rainy season. During
July, August, September, and October the rains are very heavy ;
the rivers and lakes are swollen and frequently overflow, flood-
ing large tracts of the lower-lying country. The average rain-
fall in the neighborhood of Manila is stated to be from 75 to 120
inches per annum, and there the difference between the longest
and shortest day of the year is only 1 hour 47 minutes and 12
seconds. ig
For a tropical climate, that of the islands may be considered
healthful for people of the white race, and even for natives of north-
ern regions visiting for the first time a tropical country if they
pay ordinary attention to hygienic laws, particularly to cleanli-
ness, and temperance in eating and drinking. In the majority
of cases when foreigners suffer from change of climate in this or
most other tropical countries the cause can be traced to their
own imprudence and careless habits of life. The immoderate
use of fruits, although novel and delicious, particularly after a
long sea voyage, should be avoided, as they tend to disarrange
the gastro-intestinal functions and produce dysenteric and diar-
rheal diseases, which are those most to be feared by newly ar-
rived strangers. Alcoholic liquors, if used at all, should be
taken with extreme moderation. Animal foods and fats, which
264 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
are heat-producing, should be used sparingly and care be taken
to provide against sudden changes of temperature by proper
clothing. If these precautions are followed until he becomes
thoroughly acclimatized, there is no reason why any person of
good constitution should not enjoy good health.
Elephantiasis,and leprosy prevail to some extent, and biri-
biriis also common and fatal among the natives. Typhoid fever
is also prevalent at times, but the white inhabitants seldom
suffer from it or any of the other diseases which affect the na-
tives. This immunity is due, without doubt, to better nutrition
and sanitary conditions in their dwellings.
FOREST PRODUCTS
In estimating the natural riches of the islands the forest growths
form an important factor. Ebony, cedar, ironwood, sapan wood,
logwood, and gum trees’abound, and in addition to these fa-
miliar trees there are hundreds of other varieties not generally
known, even by name, which produce useful and ornamental
woods available for many purposes. Gutta-percha is found in
some localities, and the tall and graceful cocoanut palin, Cocos
nucifera, is universal and contributes in no small degree to the
comfort and prosperity of the natives. Its trunk, branches,
leaves, fruit, shell, and husk are all turned to account. It pro-
duces fruit when seven years old that forms an important article
of diet. It is eaten when the nut is young or at that stage when
the shell is just formed, ina thin layer that can be cut with a
spoon. When the fruit is mature or in the condition in which
it is brought to our markets, it is valued only for its oil. To
obtain that, the nut is broken and the meat scooped out and
boiled inalarge pan. As the oil rises to the surface itis skimmed
off. When first made it has a rich, sweet taste and is used for
culinary purposes and hair-dressing, but afte: a few days it be-
comes rancid and is used only for lighting and lubricating.
Throughout the islands it was the only substance used for light-
ing until the introduction of kerosene, but it is still in almost
universal use by the natives, particularly in the interior, not only
from motives of economy, but from its being so easily manufact-
ured or procured.
Of all the indigenous vegetal products, the bamboo, which,
although botanically a grass, is practically a tree, is most plen-
tiful, useful, and ornamental. It is scattered everywhere in pro-
fusion, and is always found near native habitations. It is put
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 265
to an infinity of uses, from the construction of bridges and dwell-
ings to the manufacture of furniture, domestic utensils of all
kinds, pipes for conveying water, musical instruments, mats,
fences, and scaffolds—in fact, the roots, trunks, branches, and
leaves are all utilized. The varieties of bamboo are almost in-
numerable, some attaining a height of fifty or sixty feet and
varying in diameter from eight to nine inches, while others are
as small asa rattan. The forests also abound in the various
classes of canes, rattans, and others of the calamus family, which
are important and useful and serve for a great variety of purposes.
The Areca palm grows to about the same height as the cocoa-
nut tree, and produces a nut about the size of a small hen’s egg.
It is called bonga by the natives, and the quantity used is enor-
mous—men, women, and children all chew it. <A piece of the
nut is wrapped in a leaf of the betel pepper, which is smeared
with shell lime made into a paste with water. In the city of
Manila alone there are hundreds of places devoted solely to the
sale of this article prepared ready for use, and it can be found
on sale in every town and village.
~AGRICULTURI
There is a great similarity between the agricultural products
of Cuba and the Philippines—in both sugar and tobacco are the
great staples —but the latter islands possess an unique product
which hitherto it has not been found possible to raise success-
fully elsewhere, although attempts have been made to introduce
it in Borneo, Cochin-China, the Andaman islands, and other
places. It is known commercially as Manila hemp, but this is
a misnomer, as it has no relation to the hemp plant. Its native
name is abaca, and it is the product of a species of plantain or
banana, Musa textilis, which differs very shghtly in appearance
from the edible variety, Musa paradisiaca. Its fruit, however, is
small, disagreeable to the taste, and not edible. It grows to the
height of twelve to fifteen feet. There is evidently some pecu-
harity of soil or climate, or of both, which enables these islands
to retain a monopoly of this fiber which has become of such im-
mense commercial value. It grows best in hilly or mountain-
ous districts, and particularly in the volcanic regions in the east-
ern parts of the islands. It is hardy and suffers little from any
enemy except drought. It has the advantage of being a peren-
nial crop, like its fruit-bearing relative, month after month young
shoots springing up from the original root.
fyyoay, sausagT fo fisazunoa ig
NOZOT 10 GQNVISI—AYOLOVA V LV UVNNS ONTIAUA
*
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 267
In starting a plantation the timber and undergrowth are cut
down and allowed to lie until dried by the sun, when they are
burned and the young sprouts or suckers are planted. Nothing
more is ever done in the way of cultivation except to cut down
weeds and extraneous growths to allow access to the plants and
to replace those that may die from accident or old age. They
reach maturity in about three years, and should then be cut, as
at that age they yield the best fiber. IPf they are cut earlier the
fiber is short and lacking in strength, and if allowed to grow too
old before cutting it becomes harsh, woody, and brittle. A large
quantity of land is required to form a successful plantation, as
the plants occupy considerable room, and it requires the product
of five or six acres to produce a ton of fiber at each cutting.
The method of decortication is as rude as the agricultural pro-
cess. It is true that many machines constructed on scientific
principles have been experimented with, but none so far have
proved satisfactory, and the crude native implement is still the
only one in use; it consists of a rough wooden bench with a
long knife-blade hinged to it at one end and connected at the
other to a treadle. Strips of the plant are drawn several times
between this blade and the bench, which removes the pulp and
outer skin, leaving the fiber, which is then cleansed by washing,
dried in the sun, and packed for shipment.
It is one of the most useful fibers known to commerce. Beside
its value for making rope and cordage, it is extensively used in
the United States for binding twine for harvesting machines.
Nearly one million bales are exported annually, of which forty
per cent comes to the United States.
Sugar is grown very extensively. The cane, Saccharum viola-
ceum, 18 not of the same species as that cultivated in the Western
hemisphere, but it is of the kind common throughout Malaysia
and Polynesia. It is either a native of the archipelago or was
introduced in prehistoric times. Several varieties are raised on
the islands, some of which are used as food for man and animals
and others for sugar-making. They are all rich in saccharine
qualities, but the greater part of the sugar produced is coarse and
of poor quality, and brings a low price in consequence of slovenly
methods of cultivation and manufacture and the lack of high-
erade machinery, such as is used in Cuba and the United States.
The quantity produced, however, is very large, supplying all that
is used for home consumption and furnishing for export annu-
ally an average of 250,000 tons, which could be indefinitely in-
.
268 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
creased by the introduction of improved machinery, skill, and
capital.
Tobacco is an important crop, and Manila cheroots and cigars
are as famous and highly appreciated east of the Cape of Good
Hope as the Havana product is among western nations. The
quantity of the leaf raised is very great, but its cultivation is
capable of much further development. It has been estimated
that 20,000 or more persons find employment in its preparation
and the manufacture of cigars, exclusive of those who raise the
leaf. In one factory alone in the Binondo suburb of Manila
about 9,000 young women and girls are employed. Tobacco
was made a government monopoly by Captain-General José
Basco y Vargas in 1781, and remained so until July 1, 1882,
when the trade was thrown open.
Rice is largely grown, but its use is so general and the demand
for home consumption so great that little is left for exportation,
although a market could always be found inChina forany amount
that might be sent there. There are several varieties grown in
the islands, but they may be classified under two heads: the
upland or mountain rice and the water rice. The upland rice
GIRLS MAKING CIGARS
By courtesy of Leslie’s Weekly
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 269
%
NATIVE AGRICULTURE OF PHILIPPINE ISLANDS — PLOWING
By courtesy of Leslie's Weekly
is sown broadcast on the-hill lands after plowing and harrowing
the soil. It matures in about three to four months and is har-
vested ear by ear. ‘The water rice is sown later in the year, after
the rains have commenced and the low land has become thor-
oughly water-soaked. The seed is sown in the mud and water,
and in about six weeks the young plants are transplanted to the
rice fields, which are kept thoroughly irrigated.
The cacao bean, Theobroma cacao, was introduced into the
islands from Mexico by the Spaniards. It found a congenial
home, as it grows luxuriantly and produces good crops, from
which excellent chocolate is made, but principally for home con-
sumption.
Corn, which was also brought to these islands from the West-
ern hemisphere, is grown to some extent, as are also cotton, va-
nilla, cassia, ginger, and pepper. Coffee of excellent quality has
also been produced, but of late years the crops have not been
very successful, in consequence of disease among the trees.
All fruits suitable to the climate are plentiful, including the
orange, tamarind, guava, and pineapple.
The mango grown in the Philippines is considered of very
fine quality. The tree, Mangifera indica, is large and thickly
branching, with bright green leaves. The fruit before it ripens
is so acid that it forms a good pickle by merely preserving it in
270 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
salt water, but when ripe it changes from green to bright yellow
and has a rich aromatic flavor.
The mangostin, on of the most delicious of all tropical fruits,
is grown in Mindanao and some other of the southern islands
of the group. The tree on which it grows resembles a pear tree
in size and shape, the reddish brown-skinned fruit is spherical
in form, the outer rind is thick and tough, enclosing a white
center, Which is shghtly sweet, but of most delicious and delicate
flavor. This fruit is confined to the Malay peninsula and east-
ern archipelago, and all efforts to raise it elsewhere have failed.
Of all the native fruits, however, the banana is the most pro-
lific and useful to the people, giving them a larger amount of
nutritious food from a given area of land than any other crop,
with a minimum expenditure of labor. Bananas as used in
this country have been gathered while immature and have been
bruised and heated in transportation; consequently they bear
but small likeness to the fruit in its tropical home. A traveler
who has partaken of a meal in a native dwelling in the Philip-
pines, consisting of rice, boiled as only the natives can cook it,
and ripe bananas full of delicious juice, melting in the mouth
like cream, with the cool and fragrant water of the cocoanut as
a beverage, can appreciate how much nature has done in those
rezions to supply the wants of man and how little of human
labor is required to support life.
MINERALS
From what is known of the mineralogy of the islands, there is
no doubt that a scientific geological survey would prove that they
are rich in ore deposits of many kinds. Gold has been found in
several of the provinces, but chiefly in the more mountainous
and inaccessible localities, many of which are occupied by inde-
pendent tribes that have never submitted to Spanish rule; but
that the auriferous formations extend over a wide area on the
island of Luzon is proved by the fact that in the alluvial deposits
of every stream on the Pacific side some color of gold can be
found. ‘The islands of Mindanao and Mindoro are also equally
promising fields for prospectors for gold. In many places the
natives have extracted considerable quantities of gold dust by
washing the alluvial deposits; in others gold-bearing rock is
broken by them with hammers and ground in rude mills, such
crude methods of course producing but poor results. It seems
remarkable that with the knowledge that gold exists the Span-
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 2a
\
jards have not taken measures to prosecute the search for it, and
to apply modern scientific means to obtain profitable results,
This, however, may not appear so strange when we consider that
for centuries the gold deposits of California were in their posses-
sion without being utilized.
Iron ore of excellent quality is abundant, but from lack of
means of transportation and machinery it has not been found
possible to manufacture iron as cheaply as it can be imported,
so that whenever works have been started they have soon been
abandoned as unprofitable.
Rich deposits of copper also-exist, and many of them have been
worked in a desultory manner by the natives, and more recently
some of them have been operated by a company organized in
Europe, but without any pronounced success. Galena and zine
blends have also been found. Several very promising coal-fields
are known, and some of them have been utilized to a small ex-
tent, but the absence of roads and consequent expense and diffi-
culty of transportation have proved a bar to development of
this as well as of all other mineral resources. Sulphur is found
in the vicinity of many of the ancient volcanoes, in quantities
that would prove profitable if transportation facilities could be
obtained. ce
MANUFACTURES
Shipbuilding is carried on to some extent, but the vessels built
are principally small and intended for the coasting trade among
the islands. i
Considering that the Philippines are essentially an agricult-
ural region, the manufacture of textile fabrics has attained con-
siderable development; but it is not carried on in large establish-
ments, and little has been done to introduce modern machinery.
The looms are made of bamboo, and are of the simplest con-
struction.
In some districts, particularly in the islands of Panay and
Luzon, there are communities where almost every family pos-
sesses a loom, and in the houses of some of the well-to-do natives
a number of looms may be found which are operated by hired
labor. The products are principally cotton cloths, sail cloths,
quilts, coverlets, etc. Coarse fabrics are also made from fibers
extracted from the leaves of the sago palm, manila hemp, and
other fibers. The most beautiful fabric produced on the islands
is that called pifia, which is made from fiber obtained from
bo
(C2 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
leaves of the pineapple plant. The plants are raised especially
for this purpose. Before the fruit begins to form the crown is
removed, which not only prevents the formation of the fruit,
but causes the leaves to grow larger; when they reach maturity
they are broken from the plant and the outer skin and pulp are
removed by scraping. As the fibers appear they are cautiously
raised and removed one by one, and after a thorough cleansing
by washing are dried in the sun; they are then assorted accord-
ing to lengths and qualities by women and tied together in pack-
ages for the weaver’s use.
The weaving is a delicate process, requiring the greatest care
on the part of the operator, and the fabric produced is so exqui-
sitely fine that sometimes only a few inches are the result of a
day’s work. Sometimes silk, which is imported from China, is
mixed with the anana fiber, but the plain pifa is the most
esteemed and is largely sent to Manila, where it is embroidered.
In that city and the suburban villages laree numbers of women
are employed in this industry. The work is frequently of the
most exquisite quality and is sold for extravagant prices. In
the villages near Manila and in many other communities on the
islands women are also employed in making hats somewhat
similar to the celebrated Panama hats, cigar cases, and other
small wares, in which they display great skill and taste. Mats
are also largely manufactured, and as every one uses them to
sleep on, the demand is constant. They are of various qualities,
but some of them are beautiful in texture and are ornamented
with colors and gold or silver threads.
Cotton rugs of handsome designs are also made in some of the
islands. Horn is also softened and fashioned into bowls and
other utensils. Many of the various articles produced by native
workmen are remarkably artistic and beautiful, considering that
all their tools and implements are of the simplest and rudest
character.
COMMERCE
The earliest development of commerce between the Philip-
pines and the outside world was in the direction of China and
Japan, which gradually increased in importance. The Chinese
were the founders of this interchange of products. At first their
merchants came and returned each year, but as the trade in-
creased they found it more profitable to remain permanently,
and founded that Chinese commercial colony which, in spite of
a
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 273
occasional outbursts of fanatical persecution and of oppressive
taxation, has really been the mainstay of commerce in the
islands.
The earliest efforts of the Spaniards after obtaining possession
of the country were directed to securing for Spanish subjects a
monopoly of the trade, precisely as they did in their American
possessions, and to this end for a long time only a single ship
was allowed to make the voyage each year from Mexico to the
Philippines and from the Philippines to Mexico. These ships,
called by the Spaniards the Acapulco ships and known to the
English as the Spanish galleons, were equipped as ships of war
and commanded by officers ofthe navy. This monopoly insured
enormous profits to the adventurers who supplied the cargoes,
but the whole business was permeated by corruption and roguery
of the worst description. . This condition existed, but with di-
minishing success, until 1815, when the last of these vessels was
dispatched from Acapulco, as their monopoly had been grad-
ually absorbed by a company chartered in Spain in 1784, called
“Compania de Filipinas,” which by opening direct commerce
with Spain caused the decline and final extinction of the trade
via Mexico. This company, however, in consequence of bad
management and injudicious ventures, did not prove successful
and passed out of existence at the end of fifty years. In the
meantime some relaxation of the narrow-minded exclusive sys-
tem had taken place; in 1789 the port of Manila was opened to
foreign vessels, and in 1809 an English firm received permission
to establish a business house in Manila, being the first foreigners
to receive such concession. ©, In 1814 this permission was made
general.
It is, however, only since 1834, when the operations of the
Philippine company came to an end, that greater freedom of
intercourse and larger introduction of foreign capital and busi-
ness methods has affected materially the development of the
ereat natural resources and a foreign commerce has resulted
which, although far smaller in amount than it ought to be, is a
fair indication of what it might and would become if the country
should be controlled by a liberal and progressive government.
The statistics published in another part of this issue will give a
good idea of the progress and present condition of the commerce
of the islands.
Internal commerce as well as the export trade suffers from
the lack of facilities for transportation. This is more marked
19
274 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
during the rainy season, when the stormy weather which accom-
panies the southwest monsoon renders coastwise navigation dan-
gerous to coasting vessels, and land carriage is impeded by bad
roads and the absence of bridges, necessitating the floating of
goods across the streams on rafts, while facilities for personal
travel have been confined to horseback or to uncomfortable two-
wheeled vehicles called carromatas, over roads execrable in the dry
season, but which in the wet season become seas of mud, only to
be traversed by a rude sledge drawn by buffaloes—in fact, sleigh-
ing on the mud in place of the snow of northern climes.
But in this direction also there is a hopeful sign of progress,
as the first railroad has been built and is in operation from Ma-
nila to Dagupin, 123 miles in length, connecting the capital with
the rice-growine districts of Pangasinan. It is a single-track
road, well and substantially built, and its earnings have been
sufficiently remunerative to encourage an extension of railroad
facilities whenever the islands may enjoy the blessings of peace
and liberal government. |
The traveler in the interior of Luzon will find no hotels nor
inns for his accommodation, but every village has a public build-
ing—often, indeed, a very rude structure and sometimes a mere
hut—where he is entitled to shelter and where he can obtain
food, frequently of poor character, at a fixed tariff rate. Wher-
ever a priest or a convent is located he is sure of more commo-
dious quarters and better fare.
HARBORS
The immense coast line of the islands contains a great num-
ber of good harbors, but in consequence of the exclusive policy
of the Spanish government in closing them to foreign commerce
very little is known of them except to coastwise navigators. The
foreign trade is confined chiefly to Manila, Iloilo, Cebu, and Sual.
Zamboanga, on the island of Mindanao, is also an open port,
but the amount of business transacted there is insignificant.
The bay of Manila, one of the finest in the world, is about 120
miles in circumference, with deep water and very few dangers to
navigation. The entrance is divided into two channels by the
islands Corregidor and Caballos, the northern about two miles
in width and the southern five miles. The anchorage for large
vessels is good within a short distance from the mouth of the
river Pasig, on which the city of Manila is situated and which
enters the bay on its eastern side, where it 1s prolonged into the
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 275
bay by two piers, which terminate the one in a small fort and
the other in a light-house. During the stormy weather of the
southwest monsoon this anchorage off the city is not considered
very safe, but there is good shelter for ships at Cavite, which lies
about eight miles southwest of Manila in a direct line by water
or fourteen by land. Here the Spaniards have a naval estab-
lishment, with a marine railroad capable of taking from the
water vessels of 2,000 tons displacement; a dock for gunboats
and small vessels, and shops containing machinery and appli-
ances for repairs; also an arsenal and hospital.
we
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aSeacon,
oa regidor Z
aa
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CHART OF MANILA BAY
Iloilo, the second port in importance, is on the island of Panay,
near its southeastern extremity, distant about 250 miles in a di-
rect line from Manila. The approach to the harbor is by a
channel between a sand bank and the island of Guimaras, which
lies about two and a half miles from the shore. The anchorage
for large vessels, which is well protected and naturally good, is
outside the mouth of the Iloilo river, but small vessels enter it
and discharge their cargoes at the wharves of the town which
faces both on the sea and on a bend of the river.
276 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
CITIES AND TOWNS
Although there are innumerable villages and many consider-
able towns in the Philippine islands, the restrictive policy of
Spain and the centralization of civil, military, and ecclesiastical
power at Manila have prevented the growth of any other great
community ; consequently it is the only important city.
The geographical conditions, principal among, which is the con-
nection of Manila bay with Lake bay by the river Pasig, afford-
ing facilities for communication with the interior, led to the
foundation of a settlement at the mouth of the river in prehis-
toric times, as when the Europeans first landed there they found
a native town, enclosed by a stockade for defense, called by the
natives Maynila. ,
Although the name Manila is generally applied to the city on
both sides of the river Pasig, which forms the metropolis of the
islands, it is only the old walled city or fortress situated on the
left, or south, bank of the river to which the designation was
originally applied. It was founded in 1581, and King Philip III
of Spain gave it armorial bearings and conferred on it the title
of ‘‘La muy noble ciudad,” the very noble city of Manila. It
is a typical old-fashioned Spanish town, surrounded by ram-
parts, and has seen very little alteration or improvement during
ae ent
NATIVE VILLAGE OF ALBAY
Bylepnisey sole liesiel es Ween
.
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 2a,
SPANISH FORTIFICATIONS NEAR MANILA
By courtesy of Leslie's Weekly
the past two hundred years. It contains seventeen streets, laid
out at right angles. The governor’s palace, the cathedral, and
archiepiscopal residence face on the plaza, or public square,
which is adorned with magnificent tropical shrubbery and
flowers, surrounding a statue of Charles IV, which stands in the
center. The barracks for the military forces, the government
offices, and custom-house are all located in this old town; but
as there is very little business or commercial activity there, it is
intensely dull and life there is monotonous. Just outside the fort-
ifications is a broad road called the Calzada, which is to Manila
what the Paseo de la Reforma is to the City of Mexico, Hyde
park to London, or the Champs Elysées to Paris. Every fine
evening from 5 o’clock to dusk it is crowded with carriages and
equestrians, seeking relief in the cooler evening air after the heat
of the day, and society enjoys the luxury of seeing and being
seen.
Near the river stands a stone column erected to the memory
of Fernando de Magalhees, the Portuguese navigator and discov-
erer of the islands. It stands on a marble pedestal, and is sur-
mounted by a bronze sphere, and decorated midway with dol-
phins, anchors, and laurel wreaths.
On the opposite side of the river, and connected with the old
city by several bridges, is the newer town, which is the commer-
278 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
cial metropolis, called by the Spaniards Binondo, but is now uni-
versally included in the designation Manila. Itis full of anima-
tion and activity and forms a startling contrast to its sleepy old
neighbor across the river; in passing a bridge from the old city
the passenger seems to step at once from the sixteenth to the
nineteenth century. Here all is life and bustle; the principal
street, called the Escolta, is lined with stores and business places
of all classes, and from morning to night is thronged with a
motley crowd of many races and every shade of color, while
electric lights and street cars attest that the spirit of progress is
gradually encroaching on the conservative ideas of the past.
In the old city and the older parts of the newer town most of
the buildings were of brick and stone, with tiled roofs, but re-
peated shocks of earthquake have taught the lesson to build in
anticipation of them. It is now very rare that stone or brick is
used in the construction of buildings above the level of the
ground. Modern houses are seldom more than two stories in
height, with galvanized iron roofs supported by wooden pillars,
so arranged as to allow of a certain amount of oscillation inde-
pendent of the walls. The native houses are built of wood or
bamboo and thatched with palm leaves; they are of course very
combustible, but practically earthquake proof.
The population of the metropolis and its suburbs is about
250,000 to 300,000. Many of the suburban villages are very
populous. Tondo, a short distance on the Binondo side. has
upward of 30,000 inhabitants, Santa Cruz has 12,000, and Santa
Ana, a pretty village where many of the wealthy citizens of
Manila have country residences, contains about 7,000 people.
POPULATION
Spanish statistics are notoriously unreliable and no accurate
census has ever been taken, but the number of inhabitants is
about 8,000,000. The bulk of the population is of Malay origin.
On their first arrival the Spaniards found part of the natives in
possession of some amount of civilization. They had a written
language, of which some specimens have been preserved, though
of no value in throwing light on their former history, and their
traditions are very few. ‘The Spanish priests here, as in Mexico
and Central America, did all in their power to extirpate all
mythological and other lore that existed, and unfortunately with
almost complete success; but fortunately for the inhabitants they
were treated more mercifully than in most of the other newly
THE ESCOLTA — MAIN BUSINESS STREET OF MANILA
By courtesy of Leslie’s Weekly
CERVANTES SQUARE, MANILA
By courtesy of Leslie's Weekly
280 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
discovered countrres acquired by Spain, so that they have in-
creased in numbers instead of being exterminated, as in many
places in the Western hemisphere. This was not due, however,
to any magnanimity on the part of the Spaniards, but to the fact
that the great distance of the islands from Spain prevented their
being overrun by greedy and cruel adventurers, as was the case
in the West Indian islands and adjacent mainland.
In Mindanao and some of the other southern islands there are
some pure Malays, who are Mohammedans. They are called
“Moros ”—Moors by the Spaniards—and at times give them as
much trouble as the African Moors gave their ancestors in Spain.
There are also in the interior of Luzon and other islands many
semi-savage tribes, who have never submitted to Spanish rule or
to Spanish taxation, and when they escape the latter it is pretty
certain that they are not under control. They are as untamed
and are living as primitive a life as they were when the Span-
iards landed on the islands, more than three centuries ago.
The Philippine Malays are a superior race to many other Asi-
atic people; they are orderly, amiable, courteous, honest, and
hospitable, exceedingly superstitious, and when they profess
Christianity are easily influenced by the priests. Like most trop-
ical people, they are intermittent rather than steady workers.
Their wants are easily provided for, and they take life easy.
They are lacking in energy when at peace, but their hot tropical
blood makes them fierce and revengeful in war. They are fond
of music, dancing, and amusement of all kinds, but are born
gamblers, and cock fighting is their great passion. Every na-
tive, however poor, owns a game cock, and is always ready to
bet his last coin on its prowess. Every town and village has its
cock-pit, and in the larger communities the spectators may be
numbered by thousands. Of course, this amusement, like every-
thing else in the Spanish colonies, is heavily taxed, and a con-
siderable revenue is derived from this source. Advantage is also
taken of the taste for gambling by running a lottery for the ben-
efit of the government.
The mestizos or mixed races form a numerous and influential
portion of the population. The descendants of Spanish fathers
and native mothers are numerous. A large proportion of the
merchants and landed proprietors are of this class, and most of
the subordinate and clerical offices of the government are filled
by them. Another element is the Chinese and half-breeds of
mixed Chinese and native blood. Few Chinese women come to
~
a
su
THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 281
the islands and the men intermarry with the native women; in
their offspring the paternal type seems to absorb the maternal
and to be persistent for
generations. Through-
out the islands, or at
least in all the larger
towns, the bulk of the re-
tail trade, banking, and
money-lending is in
Chinese hands. They
are industrious, perse-
vering, economical, and
many of them possess
considerable wealth.
There are probably not
more than fifteen or
twenty thousand Span-
iards or people of pure
Spanish blood who are
permanent or temporary
residents, and the num-
ber of other foreigners is’ ° : yeaa
not large. The majority Bilcounteslopiiesties Weekiy
of them are in Manila.
The English have established a club at Sampalog, in the sub-
urbs, which has become the center of foreign social intercourse.
- HISTORY
The Philippine islands were discovered by the Portuguese
navigator Fernando de Magelhees on the voyage from which only
one of his ships returned after cirecumnavigating the globe. He
first sighted them on St. Lazarus’ day, 1521, from which circum-
stance he named them Archipelago de San Lazaro. His first
landing was on the eastern coast of the island of Mindanao. He
afterwards went to Cebu, where he became friendly with the na-
tive ruler and accompanied him on a warlike expedition in
which he was killed.
From this time until 1542 several expeditions were dispatched
from Spain to take possession of the islands, but from a variety
of causes all failed. In 1565 another expedition, commanded
by Miguel de Legaspi, was dispatched by Philip IT to secure
the islands, which had been named the Philippines in his honor
289 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
before his accessipn-to the throne. Legaspi made good his
footing in Cebu, but afterwards transferred his headquarters
to Luzon, and the city of Manila was founded in 1581. From
this time the islands were gradually brought under the domin-
ion of Spain—that is, so far as their subjection was successful,
which really extended to little more than the seacoasts and such
towns and villages as have been created by the Spaniards or held
by their military forces or by the power of the priests. That
this dominion has continued is solely from lack of organiza-
tion among the natives, and risings have taken place from time
to time, but have always been suppressed. The islands have
also been frequently threatened from without, but have never
been wholly lost to Spain since Legaspi first planted the Span-
ish standard on them. For a long time the attacks were made
principally by the Portuguese, who were jealous of the increas-
ing power of Spain in the Orient ; later the Dutch, incited by a
similar feeling, endeavored to obtain possession of the islands.
These attacks, however, were never very serious affairs, and the
only really dangerous invasion was in 1754, when Li-Ma-Hong,
a Chinese pirate, attacked the Spanish possessions with a pow-
erful fleet of 95 war junks, but was defeated and compelled to
retreat; and again, in 1762, when the English captured the city
of Manila and held it and the neighboring country until 1764,
when, peace having been restored, the captured territory was re-
turned to Spain.
The more civilized natives and particularly the half-breeds,
who are sufficiently educated to crave for greater freedom, have
long been in a chronic condition of discontent, induced by op-
pressive taxation and tyrannical rule, in which the ecclesiastics
have always used their authority to support the government.
This produced a crisis in 1896 and led to the serious insurrec-
tion which has been in progress, with various ebbs and flows of
fortune, until the present time.
ADMINISTRATION
In Madrid there is a council of state for the Philippines, which
has in charge the interests of the colony and acts as an advisory
board to the Minister of the Colonies. At Manile the adminis-
tration of the government has for its head and chief a governor-
general. Next to the captain-generalship of Cuba, this is the
most important and lucrative post at the disposal of the home
THE PHILI PPL NE ISLANDS 283
government. This jurisdiction-also extends over the Mariana
or Ladrone islands, the Carolines, and the Pelew islands.
There is also a lieutenant-governor, who takes the place of the
captain-general in case of his death, and a council in Manila,
which has a voice in all questions concerning the internal affairs
of the islands. The archbishop also exerts considerable power,
and the ecclesiastical authority-is interwoven in all the machin-
ery of government. .
The islands are divided into provinces subject to politico-
military governors or alealdes mayores, who are generally civil-
ians. ‘lhe provinces are subdivided into districts, and these
again into pueblos or parishes, over which is an officer called a
gobernadorcillo, a diminutive of governor, who is elected annu-
ally by the people; but the real power in these communities is
generally the priest, who not only looks after the spiritual wel-
fare of the people, but directs their material affairs. For the
imposition and collection of taxes Spanish ingenuity has been
exercised to the utmost; but the basis of the financial system
in the Philippines is the poll tax, which every adult, both male
and female, under sixty years of age has to pay, and unhappy
is the lot of the native who fails to meet the demands of the tax-
gatherer. He is arrested and imprisoned or deported to a penal
settlement, and his family, if he has one, is left to shift for itself.
RELIGION AND EDUCATION
The Roman Catholic is the established church in the Philip-
pine islands, which contain, one archiepiscopal see and three
bishoprics. Most of the ecclesiastical authority is in the hands
of the various religious orders—Dominicans, Augustines, Fran-
ciscans, etc.—who arethe real rulers of the country, as their power
among the natives far exceeds that of the civil or military au-
thorities, and of this power they are very jealous, as is evidenced
by the long record in the history of the islands of bitter contro-
versies between the church and the civil authority and the quar-
rels of the religious bodies among themselves in their efforts to
maintain ascendency. There is no doubt that among the priest-
hood there are many devout, sincere men, who do their duty
faithfully and devotedly and exert an immense and beneficial
influence on the natives under their charge; but, on the whole,
religious affairs on the islands are behind the age and would be
more useful to the people, who are naturally devout, if they were
284 NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES
infused with the more modern ideas and methods of the Church
in Europe and America.
Education is much neglected. Both the institutions for higher
education and primary schools are antiquated in their methods
and altogether behind the times, and although in nearly every
town and village that is under the control of the government a
school may be found, neither the quantity nor quality of the
instruction it imparts is satisfactory.
NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES
By Dean C. WoRcESTER
University of Michigan
Should the Philippine islands become a permanent possession
of the United States or of any other civilized nation, the prob-
lem of giving them good government and of developing their
enormous latent resources will be by no means a simple one, al-
though it will, in my judgment, be one that will richly repay
successful solution. Spain has never seriously attempted to
solve it. From the time of its discovery until now the archi-
pelago has been one vast plundering ground for her hungry
officials. She has conquered so far as greed of gain made con-
quest desirable or safety demanded it, but there she has stopped.
Although it is 577 years since Magellan discovered the Philip-
pines and 334 years since Legaspi began his active campaign
against the islanders, there still remain in the great islands Lu-
zon and Mindanao, as well as in Palawan, Mindoro, and the
highlands of Negros and Panay, tribes which are as independent
of Spain as they were when the eyes of the famous discoverer
of the passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific first rested on the
mountain peaks of Mindanao.
It was primarily in search of rare or new birds and mammals
that I visited the Philippines, and as that necessarily took me
into the wildest and least explored islands, I was repeatedly
thrown in contact with representatives of these slightly civilized
or wholly savage tribes. While it would be idle to attempt to
give within the limits of the present article any comprehensive
account of even those savage peoples among whom I and my
companions actually lived, brief notes concerning the more im-
NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES 285
portant of the tribes in question may not be entirely without
interest at the present time.
Without doubt the most primitive of Philippine peoples are
the Aétas or Negritos, a race of blacks of almost dwarfish stature,
with flattened noses, thick lips, and closely curling black hair.
They are beheved, and with reason, to be the true aborigines of
the islands, who even at the time of the Spanish conquest had
begun to go to the wall in the fierce struggle for existence which
was then being waged between them and the encroaching Malay
CHURCH, CONVENTO, AND WATCH TOWER — DUMAGUETE, NEGROS ISLAND
tribes on the one hand and between the mohammedan and pagan
Malays on the other.. At present they are well nigh extinct and
in a fair way to become entirely so. They seem to be confined
to the higher mountain ranges in Luzon and Negros, although
it is said that a few of them still exist in the mountains of north-
west Panay,and they may yet be discovered in Mindanao. We
encountered them but once. They wander through the forest,
living for the most part on what they can pick from the trees or
dig out of the ground, although the men sometimes make use
of bows and arrows or rude lancesin hunting. They sleep wher-
286 NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES
ever night overtakes them, often without troubling to build so
much as a leaf shelter. They are a sickly, wretched set; their
birth-rate is said to be steadily falling off, and they must be re-
garded as a rapidly disappearing race.
The remaining Philippine tribes, whether pagan, mohamme-
dan, or christian, are of Malay extraction, although in some cases
there has doubtless been an admixture of Japanese, Chinese, Ne-
grito, or even Papuan blood.
THE MANGYANS OF MINDORO
The most interesting of the Malayan tribes encountered by
us were the Mangyans, who people the interior of Mindoro.
Although its capital is distant but 120 miles from Manila, Min-
doro is one of the least known islands in the archipelago, its
_pestiferous climate and the unsavory reputation of the renegade
Tagalogs who inhabit its coasts having combined to discourage
exploration, while there has been little to encourage exploration
on the part of the Spanish, for the Mangyans have nothing to
steal and could not well be taxed.
Mindoro was formerly known as “the granary of the Philip-
TAGALOG HOUSE — MINDORO
NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES 287
MANGYAN GROUP, WITH HOUSE— MT HALCON, MINDORO
pines,” on account of the enormous rice crops raised in the fer-
tile lowlands to the east and west of its central mountain chain,
but the mohammedan pirates from the south preyed upon its
civilized inhabitants, decimating the population; an epidemic
nearly exterminated the buffaloes depended on for tilling the
soil, and today the once fertile fields have for the most part
erown up into forest land, while the coasts are peopled chiefly
by escaped criminals from the neighboring islands, who find in
the miasma of the forests a most effective ally against the troops
which are from time to time sent against them. They band
together and organize forays against the peaceable Spanish and
native planters, and are a constant terror to the region around.
HKven in the days of its greatest prosperity the cultivated dis-
trict in Mindoro was restricted to a belt along the coast. The
interior of the island stands today as it was in the beginning.
Under the perpetual shadows of the mighty lowland forests, and
in little clearings on the mountain sides, dwell a tribe of natives
who show little kinship in speech or customs and none whatever
in dress with the remaining Philippine peoples. They are called
by the Spanish “ Mangyanes” or ‘‘ Manguianes,” but I adopt
their own pronunciation of their name, and call them Mangyans.
288 NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES
At the time of my first visit I was unable to learn anything
as to conditions in the interior from the half dozen officials who
with a few friars and a couple of Spanish merchants constituted
the Spanish population of the island. I was informed, however,
that the Mangyans were head-hunters and cannibals.
We began our explorations at a most unfortunate time. The
rainfall is enormous in this island, and the rains were just, be-
ginning at the time of ourarrival. The daily showers increased
in duration and violence until they became almost continuous,
and finally, after thirteen days and nights of uninterrupted
downpour, we beat a retreat. ;
We returned to the island a second and yet a third time, how-
ever, and profiting by our first experience, began operations at
the commencement of the dry season. By utilizing canoes
where streams were sufficiently deep, and by tramping along
‘their dry beds when water failed, we were able to quickly pene-
trate to the very center of the island. We found that most of
the surface details given on our charts were incorrect, and ex-
plored two large rivers where, according to the charts, no rivers
should have been.
The Mangyans fled at our approach, but we eventually suc-
ceeded in gaining their confidence, and found that the alarming
accounts which we had heard of them had very little founda-
tion in fact. They proved perfectly harmless when decently
treated. The men were clad in the usual clout, and in that
alone. The dress of the women is different from that of any
other Philippine tribe. It consists of numerous coils of a cord
braided of spht rattan, or other similar vegetable substance,
wound around the body at the hips and supporting a clout of
bark. This bark is made soft by careful pounding between
stones, and at a short distance it looks exactly like cloth. The
cord is usually stained black, although a kind woven in black
and yellow check is especially prized.
Girl babies are provided with two or three anise ¢ as soon as they
can toddle, and the quantity is constantly added to as time goes
by, so that the appearance presented by some of the old women
is ludicrous in the extreme. ‘This cord usually constitutes the
only earthly treasure of the wearer, although the women some-
times ornament themselves with armlets or anklets of twisted
rattan and beads made from the seeds of plants. Coins, copper
wire, and bits of bright metal are highly prized as ornaments,
but feathers are never used.
NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES 289
Married women are distinguished by the fact that they expose
the breasts, while unmarried girls cover them with a peel from
one of the plantains, ornamented with finely braided rattan cord.
During the dry season the lowland Mangyans often wander
through the forest with no fixed place of abode. Where night
overtakes them, there they sleep, each person making a shelter
MARRIED MANGYAN WOMAN, SHOWING TYPICAL COSTUME— MT HALCON, MINDORO
for himself by cutting off a couple of rattan leaves, fastening
their buts together, and sticking them into the earth at such an
angle as to give the leaves a suitable inclination. Under this
quickly extemporized roof he sleeps, usually squatting on his
heels...
When a company are planning to remain for several days in
one place, they sometimes construct low thatched roofs, under
20
290 NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES
which they build sleeping platforms ofsmall poles. Such struct-
ures are usually planned so that each accommodates but a single
person, but they may be large enough for an entire family.
During the rainy season more elaborate, or at least larger,
structures are erected, in which several families not infrequently
find shelter; but even these more pretentious dwellings are, in
the case of the lowland Mangyans, usually left without sides.
The more thrifty mountaineers, however, build tiny huts which
are both roofed and sided with palm or rattan leaves, and are
UNMARRIED MANGYAN GIRLS, SHOWING TYPICAL COSTUME— MT HALCON, MINDORO
provided with a single opening which serves the triple purpose
of door, window, and chimney.
The cooking, which is of the most primitive sort, is done over
an open fire built on a pile of earth in one corner of the hut.
Fire is obtained by striking flint with a bit of steel or iron and
catching the sparks on a bunch of dry plant hairs. When the
necessary materials cannot be had for obtaining fire in this way,
the rubbing together of two ingeniously shaped pieces of dry
bamboo speedily accomplishes the desired end.
As a rule, Mangyans live on the forest products which they
GNOOUDMOVA NI dNVYMS GTAOUONVW — OUOGNIW — LVOd TIVS AAILVN
292 NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES
find at hand. The lowland people do not practice agriculture,
but subsist for the most part on sago, which they get by felling
the trees, cutting them into two-foot lengths, splitting these,
pounding out the inner fiber with rude wooden mallets, running
water through it to wash out the starch, catching the water in
large leaves or rude troughs, allowing the starch to settle, and
finally drawing off the water.
The starch may be eaten raw or toasted in an earthenware
dish. Sometimes it is rammed, while’still damp, into a joint
of green bamboo, which is then put in the fire and allowed to
remain there until nearly burned through, by which time the
mass of sago has been converted into a solid roll, which would
make an effective substitute for a policeman’s billy.
The more vigorous and enterprising mountaineers have begun
to practice, after a fashion, the art of tilling the soil. They have
no other tools than the rude iron knives which they purchase
from the coast natives and such wooden implements as they
fashion for themselves; but with infinite pains they clear away
small patches of forest, cutting through the trees at some dis-
tance from the ground, where the trunks are smallest.
After burning the felled timber, so far as practicable, they
plant sweet potatoes or mountain rice in the ground thus laid
bare. Sweet potato vines grow with such luxuriance as to
practically exclude weeds, so that a patch once started lasts for
several years.
It should not be supposed, however, that the Mangyan is a
vegetarian. He fashions lance, bow, and arrows for himself,
and makes the wooden tips of his weapons tremendously effect-
ive by dipping them in a virulent poison. No bird or beast is
too filthy for him to eat. Fish eagles, herons, carrion crows,
and buzzards are acceptable luxuries, while crocodiles and cer-
tain species of snakes are delicacies to be highly prized. The
huge white grubs which bore in the trunks of the sago palms
are regarded in the light of confectionery. I fancy that the
starch with which they are filled turns to sugar as it is digested,
giving them a sweet taste, but must admit that I have never
demonstrated this point experimentally. The Mangyans eat
them alive, with many evidences of great satisfaction, and evi-
dently find the flavor delightful.
I have seen them devour with satisfaction the flesh of buffa-
loes which we had killed two or three days before. It was
swarming with maggots and smelled to heaven, but they gorged
.
NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES 293
themselves with it until they could hold no more, getting up
and running round from time to time in order to stimulate
appetite and increase capacity. The grewsome meal ended,
they lay down to sleep it off. Why it did not kill them I could
never make out.
The lowland Mangyans signal to each other by pounding upon
the roots of certain trees with large clubs, thereby producing a
booming sound which can be heard for several miles under favor-
able circumstances. Their standard for measuring distance is
based on the carrying power of the human voice, a given thing
being so many “calls” away:
Their numerals usually stop at three, but their professors of
mathematics are able to count up to twenty by making use of
fingers and toes. As they always count in a definite direction,
MANGYAN STOREHOUSE FOR GRAIN — MT HALCON, MINDORO
294 NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES
each digit comes to have a permanent numerical value. In act-
ual practice, if we desired to tell a man to return in five days,
we used to tie five knots in a bit of rattan and direct him to untie
one of them every morning until they were gone, and then re-
turn.
When shown their own photographs they failed to recognize
themselves, although they at once pointed out the likenesses of
their friends. They made the most ludicrous attempts to catch
or find the persons who stared back at them from our pocket
mirrors.
Adult women would entertain themselves for hours with rattles
which we extemporized by putting a few shot into a small metal
box. At Naujan lake the people came from miles around to
watch the spinning of a top which we happened to have among
our belongings.
They are fatalists. The most dire misfortune serves only to
call forth the remark, “‘So it is appointed.”
We never saw the slightest indication of worship of any kind,
nor could we learn by the most diligent inquiry that they ever
practiced anything of the sort. They deny belief in a life after
death. Persons who fall seriously ill are deserted. A hut in
which a death has occurred is abandoned, the corpse and every-
thing in the hut remaining untouched. Relatives of a deceased
person change their names in order to insure better luck. The —
morals of this simple people are astonishingly good. Although
the women seem utterly destitute of any sense of modesty, un-
chastity is very unusual and adultery so rare as not to be pro-
vided for in their criminal code. Although they had every
opportunity to steal from us, they never took anything but a
little tobacco, and even this they explained was not exactly
thieving, since they put it directly into their mouths and took
only enough for their immediate needs! Guilt or innocence is
determined by the old fire test. A person against whom there
is serious suspicion is compelled to snatch from the fire a piece
of hot iron. They profess to believe that if he is innocent he
will not be burned. The death penalty is not inflicted. A mur-
derer forfeits his property to the relatives of his victim. Polyg-
amy is lawful for those who can afford it. All we could learn
of the marriage ceremony was that “the old folks get together
and talk.”
The few half-hearted attempts which have thus far been made
to civilize the Mangyans have proved abortive. The priest at
NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES 295
Naujan told me with deep disgust of the reply of a Mangyan to
whom he had attempted to demonstrate the benefits of civiliza-
tion and christianity. The unregenerate savage had replied that
if he adopted civilization and became a christian it would cost
money to be born, money to be allowed to live, money to marry,
money to die, and money to be buried, and he considered him-
self better off as he was. Inasmuch as his statement of the case
was strictly correct and as it was my observation that morality
increased among the Philippine natives as the square of the dis-
tance from Spanish centers of “ civilization,” I could not but
feel that this mountain philosopher had decided wisely.
THE TAGBANUAS OF PALAWAN
Palawan or, as the Spaniards call it, Ja Paragua, is the west-
ernmost of the Philippine islands. Although some 500 miles
long, it is very narrow, and there are a score of points where it
could be crossed in a day; so that the only difficulties attending
its exploration would be the obtaining of porters and food. The
fact remains, however, that little is known about the island. The
only Spanish settlement is a penal colony at Puerto Princesa, the
capital of the island, although there are a few little military out-
posts in the southern and western districts.
The island is covered with magnificent forest, in which are to
be found many woods of great value. There are also numerous
“mines ” of damar, which are worked a little by the natives.
Like most of the large islands in the Philippines, Palawan has
a central mountain chain extending in the direction of its great-
est length. Toward thesouth the mountains are covered to their
summits with vegetation, but at the north they are as jagged and
bare as our own Rockies.
Three tribes inhabit Palawan. These are the Moros, or pirat-
ical mohammedans of the south, the mountain-dwelling Battaks
of the north, who are said to resemble the Papuans, and the
Tagbanuas, who occupy the central portion of the island and
the northern coast region. Three distinct dialects are spoken
by the Tagbanuas alone, and I was informed that in one in-
stance the inhabitants of two towns 15 miles apart did not un-
derstand each other.
Mr John Foreman, in his excellent book on the Philippines,
has rightly said that the Tagbanuas are little known. He fur-
ther informs us that they never bathe intentionally, and that
they eat their fish and flesh raw. Apropos of their not bathing,
296 NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES
TAGBANUA MEN — PALAWAN
I may say that the river in front of our house at Iwahig was
full of children half the time, in spite of the crocodiles, while
an afternoon stroll along the bank of a small stream near the
village was quite sufficient to have convinced the most skeptical
observer that men, and women also, bathe upon occasion. While
I am not prepared to say that Foreman did not see them eat
their fish and flesh raw, it is certainly true that during my so- -
journ among them I never knew them to touch uncooked ani-
mal food.
The men are of medium height and are often fairly weli de-
veloped physically, although skin diseases, digestive troubles,
fevers, and starvation keep many of them in wretched condition.
Young girls are frequently possessed of considerable comeliness,
but they often marry in childhood, and they mature and age
rapidly.
The Tagbanuas are a dark-skinned people. With many of
them the hair shows a decided tendency to curl. It seems
probable that they are a hybrid Aéta-Malay race.
Their dress is a rather unsafe subject for generalization. Many
of the men wear clout alone. In the south, where they have
HILDREN — PALAWAN
AND C€
A WOMAN
BANU
TAG
298 NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES
come more or less in contact with the Moros, they have in some
instances adopted the trousers, tight jacket, and turban of the
latter tribe, while near Puerto Princesa a few of the men are the
proud possessors of cast-off articles of European dress. In ap-
proaching the Spanish town they carry their fine clothing under
their arms until at its outskirts, and then dress beside the road.
Women, when at work, wear a strip of cloth wound around the
body and reaching from waist to knee. Most of them possess
in addition a longer skirt and a semi-transparent shirt for state
occasions.
Agriculture is more commonly practiced than among the
Mangyans, but many of the men live for the most part in the
forest, where they hunt, trap, and search for damar, wild honey,
and wax. The structures in which they make their abode at
such times hardly deserve the name of houses. They consist of
leaf roofs, with a platform of poles underneath, and are usually
large enough to accommodate an entire family. Under the sleep-
ing platform a smudge is maintained to drive away insect pests,
and it is common to see a whole family squatting contentedly in
smoke that would asphyxiatea white man. A few empty cocoa-
nut shells, some baskets for burden-bearing, and two or three
earthen pots complete the list of household effects. Unlike the
Mangyans, they work iron to some extent, constructing rude
forges, with piston bellows made from large bamboo stems.
Although much of the Tagbanua’s time is necessarily spent
in the forest, he is naturally social, and especially during the
long rainy season he seeks the society of his fellows, returning
to his hut in some one of the numerous large villages.
The village houses are built of bamboo, nipa palm, and rat-
tan, and differ from those of the civilized natives only in their
smaller size, and in being perched at a much greater elevation
above the ground. One often sees a young couple working
away contentedly at their future home with no other tools than
their fingers and a rude knife.
In the villages near Puerto Princesa there exists a travesty of
the form of local government found among the civilized tribes,
each village being presided over by a gobernadorcillo or petty
governor, assisted by a “justice of the peace,” and other more
or less useless officials. No taxes are collected, however, and
few burdens are imposed on these partially civilized Tagbanuas
by the Spanish, who are trying to gradually accustom them to
the yoke, in the hope of eventually bringing them to the full
NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES 299
dignity of citizenship, which to the Philippine native means
merely the paying of crushing taxes without receiving any ade-
quate return.
A little distance from the Spanish town I found the people
friendly and unsuspicious. They informed me that “in the
early days” they were governed by a great chief, chosen by the
will of the people, who held office for life. If he proved a good
ruler, his eldest son was allowed to succeed him; otherwise a
new chief was chosen.
BISAYAN NATIVE AND HOUSE— SALAG DAKO, GUIMARAS ISLAND
At present, however, there is no ruler for the whole tribe. The
affairs of each community are directed by a council of elders,
who administer justice according to their own ideas, with little
regard for Spanish customs and requirements.
The method employed to determine the guilt or innocence of
a person accused of crime is both novel and effective. The old
men conduct accused and accuser to the bank of some deep
pool, and there, in the presence of relatives and friends, the
two dive into the water at the same instant. The one who re-
mains longest beneath the surface is adjudged to have spoken
300 NOTES ON SOME PRIMITIVE PHILIPPINE TRIBES
the truth. Theft is punished by the infliction of a fine equiva-
lent to twice the value of the stolen article. If the culprit be
too poor to pay the fine, he is whipped. A murderer is killed
by the relatives-and friends of his victim. Ina case of adultery
an injured husband may kill both his wife and her paramour,
but may not kill the one and not the other. If not murderously
inclined, he can collect a heavy fine.
A father with marriageable daughters sets a price upon each.
Whoever wishes to marry one of them must pay the price de-
manded. Should a father object on personal grounds to a suitor
willing to pay the prescribed price, he must himself pay a fine
to the suitor by way of balm to his injured feelings.
Child marriage seems to be the rule. Women are apparently
less numerous than men, and their hands are much in demand.
A curious reversal of this state of affairs exists in the island of
Cuyo, where it is said that more than ninety per cent of the pop-
ulation are women. This remarkable result is not due to any
abnormality in the birth rate, but rather to the fact that the men
all run away as soon as they get large enough. The Tagbanua
women are well treated and are allowed a considerable amount
of personal liberty, but are expected to do their full share of
hard work. Itis not unusual fora woman to bathe and go about
her customary duties the day after bearing a child. The Tag-
banuas have a secret medicine for use at the time of childbirth,
the nature of which they guard with the most jealous care.
When a death occurs the relatives set a time for the funeral,
At the appointed hour the house of the deceased is torn down
and his body is carried to the woods and buried in the earth.
Dishes and earthen pots belonging to him are broken over the
grave to mark it.
The Tagbanuas have a simple syllabic alphabet, which is in
common use. The characters are scratched on smooth joints
of bamboo in vertical columns.
Much might be added in regard to each of the people dis-
cussed, but enough has been said to give some idea of the
methods of life and of the general characteristics of two fairly
typical savage Philippine tribes. What holds true of them will
hold in a general way, mutatis mutandis, of the other wild peoples.
They are as a rule extremely ignorant, but harmless and inof-
fensive so long as they are well treated.
They will afford an interesting problem in civilization to the
nation whose flag is in future to float over their islands. They
COMMERCE OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 301
will also afford a most interesting study to the anthropologist,
and it ought to be made before the record of the daily life, the
thoughts, and the ideals of these harmless and simple children
of nature has been forever blotted out by the encroachment of
that new order of things which is sure to follow when the blight
of Spanish domination is finally removed from the islands.
OLD FORT, WITH CHURCH INSIDE—CULION ISLAND
' 5 ,
COMMERCE OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
During the year 1896 the total foreign commerce of the Philip-
pine islands amounted to $30,806,250, the exports amounting to
$20,175,000 and the imports to $10,631,250. Of the total foreign
trade, that with the United Kingdom amounted to $9,934,590,
that with the United States to $5,145,303, that with France to
$3,782,800, with Japan to $1,486,691, with Germany to $968,628,
and with other countries, including Spain, to $9,488,238.
The ratio of imports to exports, among these different coun-
tries, varied in a very striking and highly significant way. While
the United States purchased 4,982,857 dollars’ worth, or 24.6 per
cent, of the exported products of the islands, she sold to them
302 COMMERCE OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
in return only 162,341 dollars’ worth of the products of her own
mills and mines and forges. From the United Kingdom, how-
ever, the islands purchased commodities to the value of $2,467,-
O90, or about ene-third of the value of their exports to that
country. France sold to them almost as much as she bought
from them, while Germany sold eneu more than three times as
much as she took from them.
The principal articles of export are manila hemp, sugar, copra,
and tobacco. During the ten years ending June 30, 1897, the
average annual exports of sugar were 301,814,668 norm. of
which the United States took annually an average of 167,414,906
pounds and the United Kingdom an average of 128,145,274
pounds, the United States taking a larger amount than the
United Kingdom six years out of ten. The exports of sugar
attained their maximum in 1889, when they amounted to
~ 408,722,161 pounds, of which the United States took 284,654,552
pounds, or 69.6 per cent, and the United Kingdom 113,143,941
pounds, or 27.7 per cent. In 1897 the total amount exported
was only 155,576,125 pounds, of which the United Kingdom
took 106,578,638 pounds, or 69.4 per cent, and vine United States
43,261, 182 pounds, or 28.2 per cent.
During the same period of ten years, 1888 to 1897, the total
exports of manila hemp averaged 651,897 bales per annum, of
which the United Kingdom took an average of 380,767 bales
and the United States an average of 265,344 bales, the United
Kingdom taking a larger amount than the United States seven
years out of ten. The exports of this product reached their
maximum in 1897, when they amounted to 825,028 bales, of
which the United States took 417,473 bales, or 50.6 per cent, and
the United Kingdom 385,182 bales, or 46.7 per cent.
Copra is exported mainly to the continent of Europe, the
shipments in 1897 reaching a total of 801,437 pounds. The
same year the exports of leaf tobacco amounted to 69,803,325
pounds, of which exactly 80 per cent went to the continent of
Kurope. ‘The cigars exported aggregated 156,916,000, of which
81,670,000 went to China and Japan. There were no shipments
of leaf tobacco to the United States, and the cigars exported to
this country amounted only to 2,285,000.
The chief imports of the Philippines are rice, flour, dress goods,
wines, coal, and petroleum. Of the exports from Spain to the
islands in 1896, the cotton fabrics alone were valued at $4,915,851,
and of the British exports for the same year cotton manufactures
and yarn had a value of $1,494,108. Inthe exports of the United
COMMERCE OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 303
States to these islands, however, the various manufactures of
cotton figure only to the extent of $9,714! Manufactures of flax,
hemp, wool, and silk appear in the Spanish exports to the value
of $286,841, or 76.7 per cent more than the entire export trade of
the United States to the islands in the year in question. The
exports of paper, leather, and wood from Spain in 1896 had an ag-
gregate value of $585,120, or nearly four times that of the total
exports from the United States. All these products, as well as
others that might be mentioned, could just as well be supplied
from this country.
Of what the exports and imports to and from the United States
principally consist is shown in the following tables. The insig-
nificance of almost every item in the table of exports suggests,
in conjunction with the foregoing statements, the enormous pos-
sibilities of an extended commerce that now he within our reach
as a nation:
Values of domestic merchandise exported from the United States to the Philip-
pine Islands during the years ending June 30, 1893-1897.
Articles. 1893. 1894. 1895. 1896. 1897.
Wiheat tour: jor e ee. ES SOOM eae $11,250 | $18,290 | $10,068
Chemicals, ete............. . 1,667 | $1,453 320 3,390 3,316
Cotton, manufactures of .. 8,444 | 45,761 3,300 9,714 2,164
Iron and steel, manufactures
ORS i A re Ne ‘| 9,006 | 16,388 | 13,3483 | 10,204 9,655
Oils, mineral, refined...... 105,936 | 35,325 | 67,837 | 89,958 45,908
All other articles........... 21,525 | 46,539 | 23,150 | 30,785 23,486
Total domestic exports. .| 1 54,378 145,466 | 119,255 | 162,341 94,597
Values of merchandise imported, into the United States from the Philippine
Islands during the years ending June 30, 1893-1897.
Articles. 1895. 1894. 1895. 1896. 1897.
Sugar, cane and other../$2,865,966)$3,655,627/$1,111,006}$2,270,902)$ 1,199,202
Textile grasses :
Manila..........| 6,217,192) 3,324,228) 3,572,236) 2,499,494) 2,701,651
JL CHOSE Sogo fie.cllsoe mantel lOrene a ae 11,851 68,838} 384,155
COM Gie.c Che ean ae chee ao 11,221 AOA ates, 6,237 1,820
Straw, manufactures of. 29,039 12,393 26,148 81,352 72,137
All other articles... .. 36,439 13,098 10,125 56,034 24,779
Total imports.... | 9,159,857| 7,008,342) 4,731,366) 4,982,857) 4,383,740
Jj ilsl.
Walls IDNSIOSMOOIN, Ole Jabs, lPiSMEWE SUNS)
The following forcible article by Mr Charles E. Howe is taken
from The Finaneal Review of May 27:
What commercial benefits can accrue to any European nation in pur-
chasing these islands which will not accrue to us? Since we are well
able to retain them, would it not be a short-sighted policy to dispose of
them? With Hawaii and the Philippines, we shall control the trade of
the Pacific. With Japan as our ally and England as our friend, we have
nothing to fear from other foreign nations. What claim can any power
advance, or by what right can they demand that our government evacu-
ate these islands? None!
Our government can no longer pursue a policy of isolation. The times
demand that we take our rightful position among the nations of the
world, and especially in the unfolding commercial possibilities of the
East. There await untold advantages to the nation which encourages
_the awakening of the Orient from its long sleep and assists it in taking
a prominent part in its trade relations with other nations. Are we to re-
fuse to seize this golden opportunity and allow some European power to
outwit us? We cannot afford to barter away our newly acquired terri-
tory for a few pieces of silver.
What other form of government will do more to civilize these natives
than our own? It may be said, ‘‘ What shall we do with the natives of
these islands?’’ I may ask, ‘‘ What will any other nation do with
them ?’’ What are we to do with the natives of Hawaii? What of our
responsibilities with the inhabitants of Cuba and Porto Rico? Our re-
sponsibilities will be practically the same in all these cases. The truth
is, we are face to face with a new foreign policy for America. We must
meet it and not shirk it!
The welfare of our nation lies largely in the development of our trade
with the nations south of us and the countries of the far East. We can-
not hope for any wonderful expansion of our manufacturing trade with
Europe. From the West Indies, South America, China, and Japan we
can rightfully expect a mar raloue growth of trade, and emcee) © a de-
mand for our various manufactured goods.
We shall find that this war will result in untold advantages to the
United States. Our aim was to banish Spain from the Western conti-
nent and free an oppressed people. Our reward is the unexpected ac-
quirement of territory and control of the trade of the Antilles, and a
foothold in the development of the Orient. If Spain never pays our
government a farthing for the cost of this war, still we shall be well re-
paid in a very few years from the revenues to be derived from these
several countries.
Our policy in the future must be an aggressive one. Our markets
must be the world and our base of supplies the United States. All
Europe recognizes this newer policy as the only true one for the healthy
growth of nations. From a political, naval, and industrial standpoint,
we must retain our new territory.
304
In connection with the annual meeting of the National Educational Association, to be
held next month in Washington, a geographic exhibit, illustrating the physiography,
geology, ethnology, climate, and industries of the United States, will be on view at one
of the city school buildings July 7 to 12, inclusive.
The publishers of Leslie’s Weekly will send that weil-known illustrated newspaper
from now until October 1 for only $1.00, which is little more than half-price. Leslie’s
Weekly has staff artists at all points of possible conflict in the war with Spain, and it
offers to its readers for a merely nominal sum an admirable pictorial and literary history
of the war.
The Burlington’s Number One, which leaves Chicago daily at 10 o’clock in the morn-
ing, arriving at Omaha at 11.50 p. m. the same day, and at Denver at 1.30 p. m. the next
day, has just been equipped with new Pullman Sleeping Cars, and also with a Pullman
Composite Car fitted with luxurious smoking-room, sideboard, cardtables, ete. The
Burlington is the shortest line between Chicago and Denver, and these added luxuries
seem to make it even shorter.
A recent number of the Medical Record contained a notable article on the Asheville
Plateau in the Mountains of Western North Carolina, by 8. Westray Battle, M.D., U.S.N.,
in which the attractions of that famous region are admirably set forth. The Asheville
Plateau or “The Land of the Sky,” to give it the name by which it is popularly known,
is from 2,000 to 2,500 feet above sea-level, and contains a large number of peaks from
4,000 to 6,000 feet and upward in height. Its scenery is highly diversified, and its cli-
mate as healthful as it is deightful. The Southern Railway, which has done so much
to popularize this region by its admirable train service, will furnish any information that
may be required by intending visitors on application to any of its agents.
SEX WORSHIP
AN EXPOSITION OF THE PHALLIC ORIGIN OF RELIGION
By Curtrrorp Howarp
This work has for its object a general presentation of Phallicism and Nature Worship,
for the purpose of demonstrating that all religions have had a common origin and are
founded upon a natural, material basis—the adoration of life in its phenomena of crea-
tion and reproduction.
“A remarkable book.’’—Alleqheny Record.
“Intensely interesting.’’—Medical Standard.
“Mr Howard’s book represents a step in the right direction. The problems which he outlines are of
great interest.’—American Anthropologist.
* Many strange beliefs and stranger customs are touched upon in this volume, and the bearing of these
early religions upon our own rites and creeds gives to the work an added value.’’-—Brooklyn Eagle.
Second edition (revised and enlarged), with bibliography of phallicism. S8vo, cloth.
$1.50 net.
CLIFFORD HOWARD, PusuisHer,
P. O, Bow 633, Washington, D, C,
" NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RY.
HE F. F. V. LIMITED is one of the finest trains hauled_over any railway track in America. It runs
solid between Cincinnati and New York, the route from Washington being over the Pennsylvania
system. It has every modern convenience and appliance, and the dining-car service has no superior if
it has an equal. The road-bed is literally hewed out of the eternal rocks; it is ballasted with stone
from one end to the other ; the greater portion is laid with one-hundred-pound steel rails, and although
curves are numerous in the mountain section, the ride is as smooth as over a Western prairie.
One of the most delightful rides in all the route is that through the New River valley. The
mountains are just low enough to be clad with verdure to the very top, and in the early spring every
variety of green known to the mixer of colors can be seen, while the tones in autumn take on all the
range from brown to scarlet.
These facts should be borne in mind by the traveler between fi Kast and the West.
H. W. FULLER, Gen/. Pass. Agent, Washington, D. C.
CALIFORNIA. |
OF course you expect to go there this summer. Let :
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the return portion of your ticket reads via the
AB BuBd
Northern Pactfic-Shasta Route.
Then you will see the grandest mountain scenery in
the United States, including lt. Hood and It. Rainier,
each more than 14,000 feet high, It. St. Helens,
rit. Adams, and others. You will also be privileged [
to make side trips into the Kootenai Country, where 5
such wonderful new gold discoveries have been made,
and to Yellowstone Park, the wonderland not only of
the United States, but of the World. Park season
begins June Ist each year. Close railroad connections 4
made in Union Station, Portland, for Puget Sound
cities and the east, via Northern Pacific.
CHAS. S. FEE, y|
General Passenger Agent, St. Paul, Minn. |
2
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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... BETWEEN...
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Write for Map Folders.
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S. H. HARDWICK, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Atlanta, Ga.
Cc. A. BENSCOTER, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Chattanooga, Tenn.
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J. M. CULP, Traffic Manager. W. A. TURK, General Passenger Agent.
The Mutual Life Insurance Co.
OF NEW YORK,
RICHARD A. McCURDY, President,
Is the Largest Insurance Company in the World.
The Records of the Insurance Department of the State of New
York SHOW THAT The Mutual Life
Has a Larger Premium Income - - - ($39,000,000)
More Insurance in Force - - - - - ($918,000,000)
A Greater Amount of Assets - - - - ($235,000,000)
A Larger Annual Interest Income - -~ - ($9,000,000)
Writes More New Business - - - - ($136,000,000)
And Pays More to Policy-holders - - ($25,000,000 in 1896)
THAN ANY OTHER COMPANY.
It has paid to Policy-holders since
its organization, in 1843, | - + $437,005,195.29
ROBERT A. GRANNISS, Vice-President.
WALTER R. GILLETTE, General Manager. FREDERIC CROMWELL, Treasurer.
ISAAC F. LLOYD, Second Vice-President. EMORY McCLINTOCK, Actuary.
WILLIAM J. EASTON, Secretary.
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THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST.
The only American magazine devoted to the science of Anthropology in
all its branches is THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST, published at the
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No magazine ever published on ‘the Western continent is such a
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TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM
An International Quarterly Journal
Edited by L. A. BAUER
With the Co-operation of Eminent Magneticians
ITH the March, 1808, issue, this Journal, devoted exclusively to Terrestrial Magnetism and ‘allied
subjects, such as Karth Currents, Auroras, Atmospheric Electricity, etc., entered on its third
volume. ‘The hearty co-operation extended by the workers in this promising field of investigation, as
abundantly shown by the numbers thus far issued, has made this Journal the international organ for
making known the latest achievements. The magnetic needle has become such a promising instrument
of research, not only in terrestrial, but in cosmical physics, that this Journal appeals to a large class of
investigators. The geographer, the geologist, the astronomer, the meteorologist—all are interested in
the development of the subject of terrestrial magnetism. It should therefore receive their support.
Among the contributors of the main articles in the past have been Messrs. Barus, Borgen, Chree, Com-
mander Davis, Eschenhagen, Hellmann, Littlehales, McAdie, Rticker, Schmidt, Schuster, and de Tillo.
Future numbers will contain :
‘¢The Height of the Aurora,’’
By Pror. CLEVELAND ABBE.
‘¢The Investigation of Hidden Periodicities in Terrestrial Magnetism
and Meteorology,’’
By Pror. ARTHUR SCHUSTER, F.R.S.
‘‘The Relation of Terrestrial Magnetism to Geology,”’
(As exhibited by recent investigations of various Authors.)
‘* Descriptions of Magnetic Observatories,’’
(Illustrated)
By THE DIRECTORS OF THE OBSERVATORIES.
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70" MINNEAPOLIS.
a for. “the Apri 1898, number
a By all ee 25 cents.
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For the best | up- 2 date.
CUBA, physical, political, and
for the May, 1898, number of Tue ‘No
Grocraritc Macazine, “containing nu
Donat a sabe Chas D. Sigshee, ULE
_ By mail for 25 cents.
Editor: JOHN HYDE
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OGRAPHIC EDUCATION. levs dé y McG RR/ 305° 207
+ THE B UNITED STATES /
fi | °@, 5 GILBERT. sap
EN OF THE DIST RICT. OF couumsra. Do
\ wa ].. ~Cw 3 M¢GHEE. 31
VELOPMENT OF THE NATIONAL CAPITAL, Ve
¥
° SENRY GANNETT. 329-0
/ \ PA. she
ine pele MARCUS BAKER, (323 e
OF Sy GOV N MENT.” Py
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WARE, New York; 1015 Pennsytvanta AVENUE, WASHINGTON ;
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THE
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CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RY.
HE F. F. V. LIMITED is one of the finest trains hauled over any railway track in America. It runs
solid between Cincinnati and New York, the route from Washington being over the Pennsylvania
system. It has every modern convenience and appliance, and the dining-car service has no superior if
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curves are numerous in the mountain section, the ride is as smooth as over a Western prairie.
.One of the most delightful rides in all the route is that through the New River valley. The
mountains are just low enough to be clad with verdure to the very top, and in the early spring every
variety of green known to the mixer of colors can be seen, while the tones in autumn take on all the
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These facts should be borne in mind by the traveler between the East and the West.
H. W. FU LLER, Gen/. Pass. Agent, Washington, D. C.
OF course you expect to go there this summer. Let
me whisper something in your ear. Be sure that
the return portion of your ticket reads via the
»
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Then you will see the grandest mountain scenery in
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The Records of the Insurance Department of the State of New
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It has paid to Policy-holders since
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EI i a I, I a mg ym ge
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Shortest Line |
| St. Paul and Minneapolis
and the Northwest
GHICAGO
GREAT
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RAILWAY
For tickets, rates or any detailed information apply
to your home agent or write to
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THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST.
The only American magazine devoted to the science of Anthropology in
all its branches is THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST, published at the
National Capital. This journal is now in its eleventh year of increasing
usefulness.
No magazine ever published on the Western continent is such a
storehouse of authentic information concerning ARCHEOLOGY, E/THNOL-
OGY, FOLK-LORE, JECHNOLOGY, SocioLoGy, HisTory, SOMATOLOGY,
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the January number.
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Handsomely Printed—Abundantly Illustrated.
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Volume XI Begins with January, 1898.
ADDRESS: THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST,
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COMMENCED JANUARY, 1888. TWO VOLUMES PER YEAR.
THE AMERICAN GEOLOGIST,
1898.
The Oldest Exclusively Geological Magazine Published in America
TERMS.
To Subscribers in the United States, Canada and Mexico............. ... $3.50 a year
Tovother Subscribers the Postal Unionk- ec saeco iar 4.00 a year
The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST is issued monthly from the office of publication at Minne-
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recognized as the exponent of the rapid geological progress that is taking place on
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The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST \ays before its readers from month to month the latest
results of geological work. In addition to the longer papers it gives synopses of recent
geological publications and brief notes on current geological events.
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MONOGRAPHS
On the PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE EKARTH’S SURFACE, designed especially to supply to teachers and
students of geography fresh and interesting material with which to supplement the regular text-book.
LIST OF MONOGRAPHS COMPRISING VOLUME I:
GENERAL PHYSIOGRAPHIC PROCESSES ‘- - - - - =
GENERAL PHYSIOGRAPHIC FEATURES .- - - - - - at W. Powell
PHYSIOGRAPHIC REGIONS OF THE UNITED STATES - - -
BEACHES AND TIDAL MARSHES OF THE ATLANTIC COAST Prot. N. S. Shaler
PRESENT AND EXTINCT LAKES OF NEVADA - - - - Prof. I. C. Russell
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS—NORTHERN SECTION - - - Bailey Willis
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS—SOUTHERN SECTION - - - C. Willard Hayes
MT. SHASTA—A TYPICAL EXTINCT VOLCANO - - - J \f- Sh, Jopoblese
THE NEW ENGLAND PLATEAU - - - - - - - Prof. W. M. Davis
NIAGARA FALLS AND ITS HISTORY - - - - - - G. K. Gilbert
Price for one set of ten monographs, $1.50. Five sets toone address, $6.00. Single monographs, 20c.
Remit with order to AMMERICAN BOOK COMPANY,
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TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM
An International Quarterly Journal
Edited by L. A. BAUER
With the Co-operation of Eminent Magneticians
ITH the March, 1898, issue, this Journal, devoted exclusively to Terrestrial Magnetism and allied
subjects, such as Earth Currents, Auroras, Atmospheric Electricity, etc., entered on its third
volume. ‘The hearty co-operation extended by the workers in this promising field of investigation, as
abundantly shown by the numbers thus far issued, has made this Journal the international organ for
making known the latest achievements. The magnetic needle has become such a promising instrument
of research, not only in-terrestrial, but in cosmical physics, that this Journal appeals to a large class of
investigators. The geographer, the geologist, the astronomer, the meteorologist—all are interested in
the development of the subject of terrestrial magnetism. It should therefore receive their support.
Among the contributors of the main articles in the past have been Messrs. Barus, Borgen, Chree, Com-
mander Davis, Eschenhagen, Hellmann, Littlehales, McAdie, Rticker, Schmidt, Schuster, and de Tillo.
Future numbers will contain :
‘¢The Height of the Aurora,’’
By Pror. CLEVELAND ABBE.
‘¢ The Investigation of Hidden Periodicities in Terrestrial Magnetism
and Meteorology,’’
By Pror. ARTHUR SCHUSTER, F.R.S.
‘‘The Relation of Terrestrial Magnetism to Geology,’’
(As exhibited by recent investigations of various Authors.)
‘¢ Descriptions of Magnetic Observatories,’’
(Illustrated )
By THE DIRECTORS OF THE OBSERVATORIES.
The size of the Journal is royal octavo, a volume embracing about 200 pages. Domestic subscription |
price: Two dollars; single numbers, fifty cents. Foreign subscription price: Nine shillings, nine
marks, or eleven francs. Address :
TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM,
The University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, Ohie.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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National Geographic Magazine
Vou. IX JULY, 1898 No. 7
AMERICAN GEOGRAPHIC EDUCATION
; By W J McGez,
Vice-President of the National Geographic Society
The Capital of the Nation gives greeting to the National Ed-
ucational Association. The American Republic, more than any
other nation, owes character to knowledge diffused among its
people; and in no other nation is the diffusion of knowledge so
broad and general. This diffusion of knowledge involves edu-
eation, and the development and maintenance of educational
institutions. In accordance with the plan of government by the
people, of the people, and for the people, our educational facil-
ities are brought within reach of every citizen, our educational
methods adapted to the needs of the masses. Some govern-
ments strive to build intelléctual structures from the top down-
ward, only to find their lower bricks on a foundation of sand ;
our system is founded on the rock of popular education, and
the upper portions of the structure are left free. Therein lies
a fundamental distinction, the diametrically opposed nature of
monarchic policy and republican policy in educational matters.
Under the republican system the twig is bent—the youthful
mind is started aright; thenceforth it grows and strengthens
spontaneously, and in good time gives strength to the Republic.
Other nations cramp thought and enslave minds by Procrustean
systems based on the knowledge of previous generations, while
our nation plants the seeds of knowledge to be supported by its
fruits, and so rises constantly to higher and higher planes with
a rapidity unprecedented in history; our state does not so much
shape education as our education shapes the state. Yet the in-
2]
306 AMERICAN GEOGRAPHIC EDUCATION
terest of the state in the progress of education is not diminished
but only increased by this national policy ; and so the National
Capital welcomes the educators of the nation more warmly than
the wise men of any other nation would be welcomed in their
capital; and the welcome is only the warmer still because the
organization of educators is voluntary and spontaneous.
The National Capital is not without educational facilities and
agencies. As the nation grew, inquiries concerning resources
and the conditions of material development became necessary,
and offices of inquiry were created. Several of these offices
have grown into bureaus and departments, constantly at work
not only in increasing but also in diffusing knowledge—i. e.,
they have become educational institutions of the highest order.
As the offices grew, experts and makers of knowledge were as-
sembled until the National Capital became a center of practical
learning. In time the experts voluntarily met for mutual ben-
efit and grouped themselves in unofficial organizations, which
now stand in the front rank of learned societies of the world;
and official bureaus and unofficial societies are one in purpose,
and that the highest within human reach—the increase and dif-
fusion of knowledge for human weal.
The unprecedented growth of our national institutions of prac-
tical learning has been due to several causes, but especially to
two—the freedom and spontaneity of knowledge under repub-
lican conditions, and the vast extent and varied resources of
the national domain. Particularly influential has been our na-
tional bigness. In the first place geographic ideas are daily de-
veloped through that current news which is one of the features
of American life; in the second place engineers and surveyors
have found full scope for their talents, and have come to lead
the world in railway-laying, bridge-building, and the inven-
tion of innumerable attendant devices. Then the resources of
our rocks have stimulated geologists, and the science has ad-
vanced with such giant strides that today the geology of the
world is shaped in America. At the same time our broad terri-
tory is so conditioned with respect to continental features and
sources of aqueous vapor that our meteorologists have been in-
spired to lead the world in weather science. So, too, our eth-
nologists and anthropologists have profited by the unequalled
opportunities found in the assemblage of peoples and in the
range of culture-grades from savagery to enlightenment, which
it is theirs alone to survey, and have reconstructed the science
ap
AMERICAN GEHOGRA PHIC EDUCATION 307
of man ona higher plane than is known abroad. Thus America
has outstripped the rest of the world in scientific development,
especially during the last quarter-century, and while the pro-
eress has gone forward at equal rate in every part of the land
its center is the National Capital, where the federal offices and
several of the scientific societies are located ; and the assembling
of our educators in our Capital City is a fitting conjunction which
must benefit both.
The largest learned body domiciled in the Capital City is the
National Geographic Society. Although the major portion of
its members are residents of the District of Columbia, it has a
membership distributed over all of the states and territories,
especially in the leading educational institutions. The express
function of the Society is “the increase and diffusion of geo-
eraphic knowledge.” These ends are attained by means of
public meetings for the presentation and discussion of commu-
nications, by the publication of a magazine, and in other appro-
priate ways. It is,in the best sense of the term, an educational
institution ; and the success of its work is attested by its unpre-
cedentedly rapid growth in membership and influence.
The National Geographic Society is among the institutions of
the National Capital striving to render the meeting of the Na-
tional Educational Association agreeable and profitable. It has
secured the cooperation of the scientific bureaus in the prepara-
tion of an exhibit illustrating the work of the federal government
in knowledge-making, and indicating the educational facilities of
the Capital; this exhibit is installed in the Central High School
building, and will be in immediate charge of custodians able to
explain the maps, apparatus, and other objects exhibited, and
to describe the work of the bureaus. It has arranged a field-
meeting in the interest of the Association, at which the methods
and purposes of the Society will be illustrated by addresses on
phases of geography by the leading living specialists. It has
devoted a special number of THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MacG-
AZINE to the Association, and provided for its sale to members
at a fraction of the customary price. Finally it was one of the
institutions of the National Capital to cordially invite the edu-
cators of the country to Washington ; its officers and members
are serving on local committees and contributing in other ways
to the convention ; and it stands second to no institution in wel-
coming the educators of America to the fair city by the Potomac
which has become the world’s center of enlightenment.
ORIGING OF LE PREYS! GAL re Aun Uiie Si © ieueslacts
UNIREDSSTATES:
By G. K. GILBErRt,
United States Geological Survey
Fifteen years ago, on a September morning, I stood on a house-
top in Zui, waiting for the rising of the sun. On other house-
tops here and there were other watchers, sitting or standing with
their faces toward the east, and close at my side stood a vener-
_ able priest of the Sun, oblivious of all else and gazing intently
on the spot where the sun should appear. From his neck hung
a small bag containing sacred meal. When the first streak of
light appeared above the eastern mesa his lips began to move,
and he repeated slowly and with low voice an invocation to the
Sun. Then, taking from the bag a small offering of the conse-
crated flour, he breathed upon it and cast it toward the east.
Cushing, who became a Zufi Indian that he might learn their
lore, tells us that this sun-rise ritual contains archaic words of
which few modern Zufis know the meaning—words related to the
modern Zufi tongue as Norman French to modern English, and
showing that the Zufi sun-worship began in remote times, far
beyond the possibility of historical determination.
The Zufii’s reverence for the sun-god is shared by many savage
tribes, and belongs to the early history of many civilized peoples.
In later stages of culture it is succeeded by the worship of ani-
mals, of the personified powers of nature, and of personified
mental power, so that with civilized man the old sun-worship
has disappeared; but there is a new sun-worship, introduced and
fostered by science, for science has discovered in the sun a creator
of wonderful versatility and power.
Geographers worship also another nature-god, the inner earth
or the underground, a creator also and co-worker with the sun.
These two gods of physical geography were known to the Greeks
as Helios and Hades, to the Romans as Apolloand Pluto. In
*The course of afternoon lectures arranged for the winter and spring of 1898 was
planned by the late President Hubbard to present the effect of geographic environment
on the civilization and progress of the United States. The present essay was prepared at.
his request as the introductory lecture of the course, dealing with general principles
and the most comprehensive groups of natural features.
308
PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE UNITED STATES 309
later centuries Apollo, as the stimulator of life, developt into the
god of culture; but to early tradition he is the sun, a nature-god
coordinate with Pluto, the underground. Geology has long
recognized Pluto, but has made him codrdinate with the sea-
god, Neptune, naming her rocks in two great groups, the plutonic
and neptunian. Neptune has place also in the pantheon of
geography, but only as a vassal of the mightier Apollo.
Apollo gives to the earth light, heat, frost, storm, and rivers,
_and is daily the creator of motion and life. Pluto is an unknown
god, hidden and mysterious. The Greeks named him Hades,
the unseen. His only attribute of which we are altogether sure
isheat. Imagination pictures him in various ways, but imagina-
tions differ, and their conflicting sketches need not claim our
attention today. He made the continent and is never tired of
remaking it. Butfor him the globular earth would be envelopt
in an endless ocean, and life would be far different from the life
we know. By ridging the outer rind of the earth he created the
land and set a limit to the sea, and from age to age he swells
broad land tracts upward or draws them downward, so that the
outlines of sea and land are ever changing. Crushing the rock
together here and there, he forces up mountain ridges; fusing it,
he pours out lavas that congeal and build up other mountains.
Apollo dips up water from the sea and sprinkles it on the rock
to moisten and soften it. By alternate heating and chilling
he cracks it into bits; and by a complex chemistry which, de-
spite our studies, still seems magical, he changes it to fine soil,
in which plants may grow.and in which the husbandman may
delve. Lifting more water from the sea, he pours it broadly on
the land to make rills and rivers, which wash the soil away,
spreading it in the hollows and building plains. This scouring
cuts the uplands into hills, but eventually they, too, are worn
down, so that the plain is the end and aim of the water work.
Preparing for the plow the yielding soil and level surface which
make its labors light, and showering the fields with fertilizing
moisture, he is the beneficent patron of agriculture.
The mountains of Pluto, lifted to the region of clouds, intercept
and engender storms and are the perennial sources of streams.
Rugged with gorges and crags and scantily clothed with soil, they
extend no welcome to the farmer, but instead they harbor a forest
erowth, storing timber and fuel; and in some lands their huge
banks of winter snow are reservoirs for the water of irrigation.
Pluto and Apollo separate the earth stuff into kinds. If all
310 PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE UNITED STATES
the minerals of the land were mingled in one complex but homo-
eeneous substance, the problem of civilization would bea problem
of separation and would be chemical; but the gods have classi-
fied and arranged, sorting the more abundant materials into
broad layers, and gathering the rarer into crevices and pockets ;
and so the problem of civilization is a problem of exploration
and discovery, or a problem of geographic distribution.
Pluto sorts by creating a slow circulation of water. As far as
mines and borings have penetrated the earth the pores of the
rocks are full of water, and the downward limit of this satura-
tion isunknown. The upper rocks are comparatively cool; the
lower rocks are hot; and the contrast sets the water in motion.
The upper water, denser because cold, tends downward; the
under water, expanded and made lighter by heat, is forced up-
ward, and though motion is exceedingly slow, there is a contin-
uous circulation. The chemistry of the upper water is different
from the chemistry of the lower. Each can dissolve certain sub-
stances, but the substances are not the same. The properties of
water change as heat and pressure increase, and again as heat
and pressure decrease. So the slow-moving water picks up cer-
tain substances in one region, and in another deposits them so
as to receive other substances, and in this way it sorts out many
of the rarer things, gathering together or concentrating ores of
gold, silver, platinum, mercury, lead, zinc, copper, and iron.
Apollo sorts by the free circulation of water at the surface.
The soil that is washt away from mountains and uplands and
spread by the streams in lowlands and submerged plains is not
deposited in one promiscuous mass, but is classified according
to kinds—marl in one place, clay in another, and sand in an-
other—and in time these become limestone, shale, and sandstone.
The tissues of plants are gathered in swamps and changed to
peat, then buried under shale and sandstone, and finally trans-
formed to coal. The tissues of plants and animals, intimately
mingled with mud that changes underground to shales, are
slowly distilled in after ages to fill rock reservoirs with oil and
gas. In other places and by other special processes iron, salt,
gypsum, and phosphates are separated; and where Plutonic
stores of the metals are ravaged by storm and stream, the gold is
separated by its weight and gathered in the river gravels.
The origin of the features of all lands having been thus briefly
sketcht, we may now consider in a broad way the physical
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PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE UNITED STATES 311
characters of the United States, and for this purpose it is conven-
ient to divide the country into a few broad provinces.
Parallel to the Atlantic coast is the Appalachian Mountain
belt, running northeastward from Alabama to New England.
East of it lies the Atlantic plain. West of it the Central plain,
consisting largely of the valley of the Mississippi, stretches to
the base of the Rocky mountains. Thence to the Pacific coast
is a mountainous province known to geographers as the Cordil-
leras. A fifth province, the:province of the Lakes, overlaps the
northern portions of the other four and reaches from ocean to
ocean along our Canadian border.
The Cordilleran province, comprising the western third of our
country, is characterized by mountain ranges. The dominant
trend is with the meridian, swerving in some districts toward
the southeast, and in others toward the southwest; and in each
district there is a general parallelism. The ranges are definitely
Plutonic, each one having been caused by a distinct local uplift ;
but they are not altogether independent, for there is niuch evi-
dence of system in their arrangement. Not only are neighbor-
ing ranges approximately parallel, but they are evenly spaced,
so that in crossing the system one finds a regular alternation of
ridge and valley. Through extensive districts the alluvial waste
from the erosion and sculpture of the ranges is gathered in the
intervening valleys, making of each one a shallow basin or gently
concave plain, where roads may run at will. Here and there
some of the lower ranges are almost buried by the alluvial fill-
ing, so that their summits project as craggy islands above a
sea of rock waste. Elsewhere, and especially where the moun-
tains are highest, the intervening valleys are drained by vigorous
rivers, which carry off the waste and prevent the building of ex-
tensive plains. In one important district uplift has not com-
pleted its work of mountain-making, and the land forms a system
of plateaus of various heights, through which the Colorado and
its tributaries have carved their wonderful system of canyons.
Volcanoes, also, have made extensive contributions to the topog-
raphy, building many great cones and a multitude of cratered
hills, and adding voluminous beds of lava to the alluvial strata
of the valleys.
In the extreme northwest the rainfallis exceptionally abundant,
causing a forest growth so luxuriant and dense that the farmer
cannot afford the labor of its subjugation as the purchase price
to Nature for his land. Much of this district, also, is too rugged
312 PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE UNITED STATES
for the plow, so that it constitutes a great natural forest reserve,
needing only protection from fire to insure a perpetual supply
of timber. In the remainder of the province the rain tribute is
scant, falling far short of the farmer’s needs, so that crops must be
irrigated. The downfall is greater on mountains than on valleys,
and about their cool summits the winter’s snow lingers through
spring and summer, doling out water to mountain streams, which
may be utilized for the irrigation of valley lands. But the acres
which can thus be nourisht are only asmall share of those whose
smooth surface invites the plow, and the valleys as a whole
belong to the herdsman rather than the husbandman. ‘Their
grasses are scant, but this fault is half compensated by their im-
mense extent,and they must be counted as a valuable resource,
an important reserve of grazing land that can never be monopo-
lized by agriculture. On the higher plateaus and in the recesses
of the mountains are tracts and patches of forests, many of which
are protected against hasty consumption by inaccessibility, and
these supplement the great reserve of the extreme northwest. In
the mountains, also, are Plutonic stores of the precious and other
metals, and a score of valleys hold Apollonic magazines of coal.
The mountain streams, in addition to their tribute to agriculture,
afford power to the manufacturer. Untamed and fickle, subject
to enormous floods and irregular droughts, their control is not
easy; but if they shall ever be subdued and harnest, there is
hardly a limit to the tasks they may perform.
The Central Plain, comprising half of all the land, has been
shaped by Apollonic forces. The geologist tells us of many up-
lifts, dislocations, and flexures of the crust; but all these have
been reduced to approximate evenness by the codperative work
of rain, frost, and rivers. Where hollows were made they have
been filled; where hills and mountains had grown they have
been pared away, so that only their roots, with a few low stumps,
remain. In types of detail there is much variety, and there are
many rugged tracts; but the characterizing feature is evenness,
and agriculture is the great industry for which the province is
naturally destined.
On this broad fact, however, climate imposes an important
qualification. Over most of the province the spring and summer
rains suffice for the farmer’s need, disappointing him only by
an occasional drought, but in a western belt following the base
of the Rocky mountains, and including much of the sub-province
known as the Great Plains, the rainfall is so scant that agricul-
7
PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE UNITED STATES 313
ture must depend on irrigation, just asin the Cordilleras. Here,
again, grazing may flourish without need to compete with agri-
culture for possession of the land, and the domain of the herds-
man is thus naturally set apart.’
Of the rarer mineral resources the Central Plain has greatest
wealth in coal, which underlies broad tracts and is easily mined.
It is rich also in iron, both Plutonic and Apollonic, and has
abundant salt and gypsum. Throughout its broad extent wagon
roads and railroads are easily constructed, and its grain for ex-
port finds cheap water transportation from interior districts to
the sea by way of the Mississippi and the St Lawrence.
The mountains of the Appalachian Province were formed by
the codperation or Plutoand Apollo. Long ago the crustal rocks
were crowded together in a great system of wrinkles, the crests
of which were then wholly pared away so that the Central and
Atlantic plains were joined in one. ‘Then came other disturb-
ances along the folded belt, but without new folding. The plain
was locally lifted into a long plateau, with gentle slopes on either
side, and from this plateau the mountains have been carved.
Through the remnants of the old truncated folds ran long out-
crops of various and diverse rocks, trending northeast and south-
west, and these rocks have been wasted unequally by the eroding
waters. Where there were soluble limestones or weak shales, the
streams opened valleys; where there were resistant sandstones
or quartzites, mountain ridges were left ; and so the Appalachian
ranges are a complex cameo of Nature’s carving. The broader
valleys were smoothed in the carving and prepared for agricul-
ture, the mountains left rough and reserved for forest. The region
is rich in iron, both Apollonic and Plutonic, and peculiarly rich
in what may be called Plutonic coal—coal made, indeed, by
Apollonic processes, but converted to rich anthracite by Plutonic
heat. Water power is abundant, and though less magnificent in
its possibilities than the power associated with the loftier Cor-
dilleras, of greater present value because more tractable, and
because associated with tillable plains that are qualified by cli-
mate for the primary industry of agriculture.
The Atlantic plain resembles the Central in that both cutting
and filling have contributed to its formation, but the constructive
factor is here more important. While the Appalachian folds were
being reduced, part of the waste went eastward, burying the At-
lantic margin of the continent and extending it seaward. Later,
when the Appalachian cameo was carved, the accumulation of
ol4 PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE UNITED STATES
waste was continued, and so the eastern part of the Atlantic belt
is what geographers call a constructional plain. But there is
another part, lying close to the mountains, which shared in the
Appalachian uphft and also in the Appalachian carving, and was
finally reduced so nearly to sea level that it constitutes an in-
separable part of the Atlantic Province. It consists of ancient
rocks, graded down nearly to a uniform level, and is clast by
geographers as a destructional or eroded plain. As Pluto raises
and lowers the land the ocean is caused to alternately recede and
advance, and this low-lying plain is peculiarly susceptible to its
encroachment. In our day the fourth part of it is submerged,
so that its actual limit as a physical feature Les many miles be-
yond the coast, where there is an abrupt change from shallow
soundings to abyssal depths. The land of the Atlantic Plain is
shaped for agriculture, and much of it is cultivated; but there
are broad tracts of soil too poor to compete with the fertile land
of the Central Plain and utilized only for timber and other forest
products. Water powers, afforded by the moderate fall of large
streams, have great value by reason of their proximity to tide-
water and consequent facilities for cheap transportation of the
raw materials and the products of manufacture.
The Lake Province, overlapping all other provinces from the
north, is a marginal overflow of Canadian topography, and re-
sulted from the great prehistoric invasion of our land by Cana-
dian ice. The colossal ice-sheets of the eastern and central
British provinces and the contemporary glaciers of the northern
Cordilleran mountains remodeled the topography of all the proy-
inces, carving the valleys into new shapes and heaping the débris
in irregular mounds and ridges of peculiar type. When the ice
was melted and rains fell again upon the land, the streams could
neither find nor follow their old courses, and the waters were
compelled to fill many a hollow before they could flow away at
all; so while the old types of mountains and plains remained as.
broad features characterizing the several provinces, there was
added the feature of obstructed drainage, markt by a multi-
plicity of lakes. Of these are the lakes and ponds of New Eng-
land and New York, the great Laurentian lakes and their host of
associated lakelets, the mountain lakes of Idaho and Montana,
and the curious linear lakes of northern Washington. The dis-
tribution of ores was not affected, though facility of discovery
and exploitation was locally modified, being partly impaired
and partly improved. The surface conditions bearing on agri-
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PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE UNITED STATES old
culture were greatly changed. Large tracts denuded of soil were
relegated to the growth of timber; others were made hilly by
the heaping of drift, and yet others were smoothed by sedimen-
tation in the beds of temporary lakes. The new soils have a
special quality as compared to those resulting from the decay of
rocks, for rock decay involves leaching and the loss of soluble
minerals. The ice-mill ground together unleacht samples of
many rocks and deposited them with little sorting, so that the
glacial soils are often rich in materials which elsewhere need to
be artificially supplied.
The confusion of drainage has yielded results as important in
their way as those from the traditionary confusion of tongues at
Babel, for the disconcerted streams, having their descent arrested
by basins and lakes, are compelled elsewhere to tumble down
rapidly, making convenient water powers; and these water
powers have special value because the associated lakes are nat-
ural reservoirs, protecting them from flood and drought. As the
greater lakes are also natural avenues for commerce, the prov-
ince of the Lakes, associating water power with commercial facil-
ity, is the natural home of manufacture.
The physical characters which, after mineral resources and
climate, have greatest influence on industrial activities are in-
ternal routes for commerce and maritime harbors in their rela-
tion to external routes. The lines followed hy pioneer settle-
ment as well as those to which internal transportation ultimately
adjusts itself are greatly influenced by topographic configuration,
continuous mountain ranges acting as barriers and low passes
through ranges serving as avenues. Long lines of navigable
water also have their influence, and for districts whose most
practical product is so abundant as to yield a surplus for expor-
tation facility of transportation means progress in population
and wealth. The consideration of these conditions is attractive,
but as they affect various localities unequally their discussion
may properly be left for the lecturers who are to speak of more
limited districts.
Harbors, however, though their local quality has local value,
are of primary importance to the country as a whole and may
be considered today. They are naturally formed in many ways,
but only the principal types need be mentioned. Wherever a
river reaches the sea the continuous contour of the coast is broken,
and there would be a natural harbor but for the opposition of
the waves. The outflowing river endeavors to scour a channel
316 PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE UNITED STATES
through which ships may enter. The waves, buffeting the coast
and drifting sand and gravel to and fro, endeavor to clog the
riverway with submerged bars, making the water too shoal for
shipping. Over small rivers the waves are victorious, and
unless engineers cooperated with the rivers the entrance-ways
are sealed. Large rivers overpower the waves and clear their
channels faster than the waves can clog them. Only one of our
rivers, the Mississippi, has proved competent to maintain its
channel to the sea, but.that affords a harbor of peculiar value, in
that itis connected with a system of inland navigation hundreds
of miles in extent.
The fiord harbors associated with prehistoric ice-fields are an
important group. The ice descended to the shores of both oceans,
and by its remodeling of the surface left steep slopes with a tor-
tuous contour, creating a great abundance of deep harbors. New
England at the east and Washington at the west are thus en-
dowed, and their maritime commerce requires neither piers nor
dredges to maintain its natural channels.
Natural harbors of a third class are connected with vertical
movements of the land. When the margin of the continent is
lifted the coast line, following a slope new-risen from the sea, is
a simple contour on an even plain, and there are no harbors;
but when the land is deprest the sea-water enters each valley of
the coastal plain, making a bay. Then the waves, driving sand
and other land waste along the coast, build a spit across the
mouth of each bay,converting it into a sheltered harbor, whose
entrance is scoured four times a day by the incoming and out-
going tide. Into the estuaries thus formed the streams build
deltas, gradually filling and obliterating them; but so long as
subsidence continues they remain open and available for com-
merce. It is our good fortune that nearly the whole of our coast,
both Atlantic and Pacific, is now subsiding,* so that estuaries
are numerous and the maintenance of serviceable harbors re-
quires only moderate aid from the engineer. The bays and
sounds of San Francisco, Galveston, Mobile, Tampa, Savannah,
Charleston, Wilmington, Pamlico, Chesapeake, and Delaware are
of this type; and the Hudson estuary, which is also a fiord,
carries tidewater one hundred and fifty miles from the coast.
Climatically the United States lies within the zone of variable
winds. Instead of being swept by continuous trade winds or
* Strictly speaking, the determined fact is that the relation of land to sea is chang-
ing, and we do not know which one actually moves.
‘
THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA 317
periodic monsoons, it is traverst at short but irregular intervals
by the broad air whirls called cyclones, which bring with them
rapid alternations of warmth and coolness, sunshine and rain,
breeze and calm; and the direction of the wind is continually
shifting. In other words, we are endowed with weather instead
of mere climatic monotony.
In all parts of our land there is so much of winter that man
must provide himself with clothing, shelter, and fuel. Natural
fruits, to be had for the plucking, will not sustain him, and he is
compelled to earn his food. ‘Thus Nature forces him to labor
and to contrive, and his physical and intellectual faculties are
developt, like the athlete’s muscle, by exercise. From variety
of configuration, of mineral resources, and of climate, flow varied
and complementary industries. Agriculture flourishes in the
Atlantic and Central provinces, on the morainic hills and lacus-
trine plains of the Lake district, and, with irrigation, in intervales
of the Cordilleras. Its products range from the hardy apple to
the frost-shunning banana. Along the western borders of the
Central plain and in Cordilleran valleys the herdsman tends his
bands of horses, kine, and sheep. In the humid northwest, in
the recesses of the mountains, and on tracts of inferior or scanty
soil are forests for the lumberman. In mountains and roots of
mountains are ores for the miner, and from the hills he draws
fossil fuels. Manufacture finds natural power in waterfall, coal,
and gas, and the way of commerce is made easy by the harbors
of the coast. Thus Pluto and Apollo have prepared the land
for that diversity of product and industry which gives national
independence and have provided a commercial facility which |
joins us to the brotherhood of nations.
GEOGRAPHIC DEVELORMENT OF fie DISTRICT OF
COLUMBIA
By W J McGEE
The District of Columbia hes on the boundary between two
great natural districts or provinces, the Piedmont plateau and
the Coastal plain.
The Piedmont province is a low plateau composed of ancient
crystalline rocks, extending westward to the Blue Ridge and
stretching far northeastward and southeastward. This plateau
is trenched by Potomac and other rivers and their tributaries,
GEOGRAPHIC DEVELOPMENT OF
D
318
and its surface has been carved into hill and vale, broad divide
and narrow valley, by the action of running water. During the
ages past it was a high plateau or mountain range, which was
first canyoned and afterward carried away by the Potomac and
neighboring rivers of eastern United States.
The Coastal province is a broad lowland made up of sedi-
mentary formations. It extends from the capital to the coast,
and thence as shallow sea-bottom for over-a hundred miles into
the Atlantic, ending ina steep slope toward the ocean-depths ;
and it stretches northward to New York and southward to the
limits of the continent. ‘Thus the Coastal plain is about half
land and half sea-bottom. ‘Through the land portion broad
estuaries pass, bearing the waters of Potomac and other rivers to
the sea; and in the bottoms of the estuaries and in the sea-bot-
toms beyond, certain channels have been revealed by soundings.
The history of the development of the region may be read from
the land-forms of the two provinces, and from the sedimentary
formations or deposits of the Coastal plain.
DEFINITIONS
The student of geographic development takes note of (1) pro-
cesses or agencies, and (2) products. ‘The chief agency concerned
in making this region is water, and the chief processes are (a)
erosion, and (/) transportation by running water, together with
(c) deposition of the transported material in slack water; or, in
more general terms, degradation and subsequent aggradation.
When a considerable area of earth-crust rises in such manner
as to transform smooth sea-bottom to dry land, certain changes
are wrought on the surface: When the rains fall, a part of the
water lies long on the level surface and forms marshes, but here
and there rivulets form and flow down the gentle slopes toward
the sea; the rivulets cut rills and, as the waters gather strength
with increased volume, dig gullies; eventually the rills unite in
streamlets and brooks, and the gullies expand into ravines and
valleys; and in time streams and rivers are formed, each flowing
in a gorge or valley of its own making. In this way the surface
of the uplifted sea-bottom is carved into valley-systems, and the
forms of the valleys determine the forms of the hills and divides
by which they are bounded. It is in this way that the lands of
the earth are sculptured; and the sculpture of running water
produces a characteristic topography.
\
THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA O19
The earth-matter cut out of the rills, gullies, ravines, and val-
leys is transported by the running water into the adjacent lake
or sea, where it is dropped, swept here and there by the waves,
and eventually built into sheets of sediment, or formations. So
long as land and sea maintain their relative position, the sedi-
ments are accumulated continuously and constitute a single
formation; but if the earth-crust rises or sinks, the formation
changes: If the earth-crust rises, the ocean withdraws and sea-
bottom is converted into land to be sculptured into land-forms ;
if it sinks, the ocean advances and sediments are laid down over
the land-forms sculptured by the running waters, and an uncon-
formity is produced.
Thus in regions like the Coastal province there are two im-
portant classes of products, (a) land-forms, and (b) formations ;
and the unconformities separating the formations are old land-
surfaces.
The development of the region is recorded in land-forms, forma-
tions, and unconformities produced in this way.
THE LAND-FORMS
Above the mouth of Rock creek, Potomac river flows in a
steep-bluffed gorge cut sharply in the Piedmont plateau; Rock
creek, too, occupies a narrow and rugged valley cut in a plain—
a plain so definite that the eye catches its continuity and fails
to note the valley save when near its brink. The lesser tribu-
taries of the Potomac and of Rock creek flow in narrower val-
leys, gorges, and ravines, each proportionate to the length and
strength of its stream. Thus the western part of the district is
a land of sharp-cut gorgeS and ravines, with rugged hills be-
tween ; while toward the main divides the waterways diminish
in depth and the surface becomes a gently undulating plateau.
And it is evident that each channel, great and small, was carved
by the great or small stream now occupying it; 1t is evident,
too, that the channels are deep because this part of the land
stands high above the level of tide; and after a little study of
the steepness of the valley-sides, it is evident also that the period
of valley-cutting was not very long—for the steep slope is a sign
of rapid stream-work.
Below Rock creek, Potomac river expands in a tidal estuary
flanked by moderately steep bluffs and lined with alluvium or
river-mud. Anacostia river occupies a similar but smaller
trough, relatively broad and shallow as that of the Potomac;
320 GEOGRAPHIC DEVELOPMENT OF
and its bluffs rise to a moderately uniform plain in which the
trough is excavated. The lesser tributaries are estuaries toward
their mouths, but flow in steep-sided gorges and ravines much
like those of the Piedmont toward their sources ; while the di-
vides are broad, flat plains in which the drainage systems are
imperfectly developed. Thus the eastern portion of the district
is a land of steep-bluffed tidal estuaries, narrowing above into
gorges and ravines, with ill-drained expanses between. The
history recorded in these land-forms is a little more complex
than that recorded in the Piedmont: Since the valleys are pro-
portionate in size to their streams, it is evident that all were cut
by the streams now occupying them; since the head-water
ravines do not unite in the broad divide-plains. and since the
slopes are steep, it is evident that the land has not stood above
the ocean long enough to permit the drainage-systems to extend
themselves over the entire surface; and since the larger valleys
are occupied by tide-water and lined with alluvium, it is evident
that the land formerly stood higher than now, and has since
subsided so far as to permit ocean-water to drown the larger
river-cut valleys. So the land forms of the district tell of certain
agencies and movements concerned in the development of the
district.
THE FORMATIONS
Washington is located in a triangular amphitheater opening
southward through its southern angle. This amphitheater is
lined with a peculiar deposit not found over the higher bound-
ing hills; it is composed of brown loam or clay mixed with
sand, gravel, and bowlders. This is the Columbia formation.
It is generally coarser below and finer above, the upper portion
being used as brick-clay ; and in general it 1s coarser toward
the gateway in the wall of the amphitheater through which the
Potomac enters in the western part of the city, and finer in the
eastern and southern portions of the amphitheater. On com-
paring this deposit with the alluvium dredged out of the river-
bottom there is found so close similarity as to warrant the con-
clusion that both were produced by the same agency—that just
as the river is depositing the alluvium at the present time, espe-
cially during the spring freshets, so the Columbia formation
was deposited by the river during the freshets of past ages. This
conclusion involves the supposition that during the Columbia
period the land stood lower than now, so that the Potomac estu-
ary occupied the entire amphitheater. Comparison of the allu-
» Lai
“1s
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THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA 321
vium with the Columbia deposits reveals certain minor differences
in the deposits, notably a larger proportion of brown loam and
a larger number and size of bowlders in the ancient one; and
these differences suggest that during the Columbia period the
climate was colder than now, the bowlder-bearing ice-floes larger,
and the thaw freshets more destructive to soil than at present.
These features suffice to correlate the Columbia formation with
the glacial deposits of northern United States. Thus the Colum-
bia formation records definitely a period during which the land
stood lower than now and the sea encroached further, and when
the climate was colder thannow. Detailed study of the forma-
tion indicates that there were two epochs of depression of the
land, separated by a stage of elevation, the submergence during
the earlier period being much the greater. The earlier Columbia
deposits are found over the lower hills and uplands flanking the
Washington amphitheater up to 200 feet above tide; the later
Columbia mantles Capitol hill and other portions of the amphi-
theater up to about 100 feet above tide.
The distribution of the Columbia deposits is such as to indi-
cate that the great estuaries of Potomac and Anacostia rivers
and the narrower rock-bound gorge of the Potomac-from Great
Falls to its source were carved out in nearly their present form
before the Columbia period ; thus these great geographic feat-
ures record a pre-Columbia period during which the land stood
far above its present level so that the ocean retreated far beyond
the present shore-line, probably to the great submarine scarp
100 miles off shore. This period was one of great importance
in the development of the’ district, though it has only recently
been defined through recognition of principles discovered during
researches in the district. At that time the entire Coastal plain
was land, so far elevated that rivers and brooks flowed swiftly
across it and down its slopes, producing characteristic land-
sculpture—a surface now represented in one of the strongest
unconformities in the Coastal plain.
On some of the highest hills bounding the Washington am-
phitheater there is found a deposit of red clay and well-rounded
pebbles of quartz and quartzite somewhat resembling the Co-
lumbia, but differing in that the pebbles are harder and more
worn, and in that the deposit is more uniform and homogeneous ;
this is the Lafayette formation. Outcrops of the Lafayette are
found on Good Hope hill, in the uplands about Soldiers’ Home,
22
322 GEOGRAPHIC DEVELOPMENT OF
and on the hills toward Tenly ; and most of the broad divides
between the head-water ravines in the eastern part of the dis-
trict and still further eastward are floored with the deposit.
The structure of the deposit indicates that it was arranged by
waves and currents along the shore of a shallow ocean, stretch-
ing far northward and southward; and its uniformity indicates
that the deep valleys of the modern estuaries did not exist, and
that it was laid down on smooth sea-bottom, a former smooth
land-surface, before the post-Lafayette period of high level. It
is composed of materials which are either decomposed and thus
degraded chemically (the brown loam), or of great chemic ob-
duracy (the quartz and quartzite); and the simplest explana-
tion of its composition is that its materials were gathered by
swiftly flowing streams over a land which had long been sub-
jected to the action of chemical rather than mechanical agen-
cies—i. e., land lying low for a long period so that running water
was sluggish and impotent, while decomposition of the rocks
and soils went on apace.
So the Lafayette formation tells of a time when the land was
low, so low that the Atlantic encroached beyond the longitude
of Washington; it tells, too, of a seaward tilting of the Piedmont
whereby the streams were made swifter than before, so as to
tear up residuary soils and ancient quartz ledges. The dis-
tribution of the Lafayette indicates that it was originally a con-
tinuous mantle stretching from the Piedmont far seaward and
northward and southward throughout the Coastal plain; but
that during the subsequent period of high level it was entirely —
cut away along the larger and many of the smaller streams so-
that it is now represented only by a series of remnants on the
higher divides.
Thus, the Lafayette formation is a definite record of a great
subsidence and seaward tilting of the land; and at the same
time it records a previous geographic condition during which
its materials were prepared by chemic processes, and a subse-
quent geographic condition during which most of its volume
was carried away by running waters.
THE COMBINED RECORD OF LAND-FORMS AND FORMATIONS
The margin of the Piedmont plateau reaching the district is
a land of fairly smooth contour, albeit trenched by gorges and
ravines, and its rocks yield red clays and quartz fragments on
decomposition; and these conditions are in accord with the
THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA 323
evidence of the Lafayette formation. Thus. the period of the
shaping of the plateau may be correlated with the period closed
by the deposition of the formation.
The great gorges of the Potomac and Anacostia and of Rock
ereek and other tributaries tell of a period when the land stood
high above its present level; and this is in accord with the
degradation of the greater part of the Lafayette, and permits
correlation of the land-forms in the two provinces.
The lining of the Washington amphitheater with Columbia
deposits records a period when the land stood low and when the
climate was cold, and this gives a date for the correlation of
local geologic history with general geologic history.
Thus the land- forms and the formations, when carefully studied
and interpreted, yield a record of the development of the District
during the ages: The streams flowed down to the sea, the waves
rolled along the shores, sediment was gathered here and de-
posited there, the earth-crust alternately heaved and sank ; as
time passed valleys were born and hills were fashioned, and the
face of the land was transformed again and again; each new
geography was wrought from the old, and each can be restored
in mind or in picture from the study of hilland rock; and each
stage in evolution was an..important episode in the geographic
development of the District of Columbia.
THE HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF THE NATIONAL
CAPITAL
By Marcus BaKkrr*
Among all the great capitals of the world the capital of the
United States stands out unique. In its origin, development,
and government, Washington has no counterpart. There is but
one Washington. That the National Capital is unlike other
cities in the United States is matter of common observation and
remark. Its wide, asphalt-covered avenues, its shaded streets.
its parks, and public statues—these outward shows usually first
arrest attention and excite comment. The roominess of the
streets and the leisurely air of those who use them are also often
* Mr Marcus Baker, of the U. S. Geological Survey, was one of the founders and the
first Secretary of the Columbia Historical Society and is now Chairman of its Publica-
tion Committee.—Ep.
324 THE HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF
remarked on by visiting strangers. The smoothness and spa-
ciousness of the highways seem to be a perpetual source of de-
light, while the want of commercial bustle and rush and turmoil
_ in the streets is to many a visitor visible evidence of the laziness
and indifference engendered by the public service. Whether
this judgment be wise or otherwise, it is not for those judged
to determine; yet we know that though first impressions are
prone to last, it is not because of their accuracy ; and from judg-
ments we often learn more of the quality of the judge than of
that concerning which he pronounces judgment.
Most of our large cities are given over to manufactures and
ecommerce. The energy of the citizens is given to making things,
to transporting them, to buying and to selling. Business activ-
ity and prosperity, to the resident of such cities, means crowded
and noisy streets, filled with endless streams of men, women, and
traffic. horses, trolley cars, cobblestones, policemen, street fakirs,
big wagons, little wagons, automobiles, with fake extras of yel-
low journals shouted above all the din. To those whose lives
are spent in such surroundings, Washington seems dull and
stupid.
Washington is now nearly a century old, it having been first
occupied as the seat of government in 1800. It was on June 15
of that year that the public offices were first opened, and on No-
vember 22 following that Congress for the first time met in Wash-
ington.
At the close of the Revolution, when Congress was in session
in Philadelphia, it will be remembered some of the unpaid sol-
diers grew impatient at the delay in settling their accounts. To
hasten a settlement and stimulate what they deemed a dawd-
ling and lazily deliberative Congress to prompt action, these
soldiers made a threatening demonstration about the old State-
house where Congress was then in session.
Just as the present war with Spain has suddenly and pro-
foundly affected the thinking, the outlook, and the points of
view of all who think, so this little demonstration to hasten the
payment of money due taught Congress, the apt pupil, a lesson
which the teacher,a mutinous soldiery,neither knew nor dreamed
of. Our forefathers had chafed under the presence and support
of an army maintained against the citizens at the cost of the cit-
izens and in the interest of the sovereign. When their own cit-
izen soldiery grew mutinous, a new view suddenly appeared and
with it a new danger. Out of this new view and from this real
THE NATIONAL CAPITAL 325
or supposed menace came the decision, thoughtfully and reso-
lutely taken, that the seat of government of the United States
must be where only those United States have exclusive jurisdic-
tion and control. This new created State, this then small star
in the galaxy of nations, was designed to be and its founders
believed it was to become a great nation. So believing, they
deliberated and determined that it should have a permanent
home of its own, where its laws could be made, interpreted, and
executed without improper interferences or influence of any kind
or from any source. The conclusion was to select a tract and
build a permanent home as the seat of government. Most cap-
itals have been established or have grown up in towns or cities
already existing. Not so the city of Washington. When, in
April, 1789, President Washington first entered upon his high
office, there was no city of Washington. Yet there was to bea
* Federal City.” The Constitution, framed and signed in 1787,
provided that Congress might “exercise exclusive legislation
_ over such District (not exceeding ten Miles square) as
may, by Cession of particular States and Acceptance of Congress,
become the Seat of the Government of the United States.”
Under this authority Congress, by a law enacted on January
16, 1790, and amended July 16 following, selected the present
locality on the banks of the Potomae.
Down to 25 years ago there was talk from time to time of
moving the capital to a more central location. The discussers
rarely or never, however, gave evidence of any acquaintance
with the labor involved or’ the traditions of the compromise
which resulted in the selection of the present site. Whoever
will take the trouble to learn what it cost to do this will be
either a very bold or a very foolish man to hope or expect that
a removal of the capital is possible.
The original grant by Virginia and Maryland, accepted by
Congress in 1790 as the permanent seat of Government, con-
sisted of a tract of 100 square miles, lying on both sides of the
Potomac river. Under the direction of three Commissioners,
appointed by Washington, this tract was surveyed by Major
Andrew Ellicott in 1791. The boundary was traversed, chained.
and cleared of timber and a topographic map prepared of the
100 square miles comprised within these boundary lines. As
the survey approached completion in the autumn of 1751, Elli-
cott asked the Commissioners for the title or name to go on the
map; whereupon the Commissioners formally passed on the
326 THE HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF
matter. They answered, ‘The City of Washington, in the Ter-
ritory of Columbia.” Thus the “ City of Washington,” as yet an
airy nothing, but with a local habitation in the ‘‘ Territory of
Columbia,” now received a name. This was in 1791. Yet it
took time to get the names into use. The imaginary city con-
tinued to be referred to chiefly as a jest under the old descrip-
tive phrase, Federal City. When in 1792 the boundary monu-
ments were set along the Maryland part of the District boundary
line the word Maryland was cut upon that side of each stone
which faced Maryland, but upon the side which faced what we
now call the District of Columbia the word Columbia does not
appear. Instead of it there appears in clear, large, and deep-cut
letters the words “ Jurisdiction of the United States.” Obviously
this fact, rather than a name, was uppermost in the minds of the
Commissioners in 1791. And this fact is still unique in the his-
tory of all capitals. Congress legislates for the District of Co-
lumbia absolutely, and thus we have for the national capital this
curious anomaly. It is legislated for, taxed, managed, controlled,
and governed by the united voices of all the voters of the United
States except its own. The citizens of Washington itself are the
only ones in the United States who are by law deprived of all
voice as to the management or control of Washington affairs.
And what seems stranger still, these strange Washingtonians are
well content with this hard fate,and would, it is believed, refuse
to change it even if they had the power.
Washington, it must be remembered, differs from other cities
because it was intended to be different. Its site, when choice
was made, is described as a wilderness, and for more than half
a century did not cease to be ridiculed as such; and the plan
of the city was completely drawn out on paper and marked out
on the ground before any buildings appeared—just as happens
with modern boom towns, but with this difference: In the boom
town the real estate speculation is the main motive ; in the found-
ing of the nation’s capital it was only an incident, and an inci-
dent which Jefferson strove to minimize by letting out either
none or misleading information as to plans for public buildings
and “appropriations,” as tracts reserved for the general govern-
ment were called.
The plan for the city was drawn up by a French engineer,
Major Pierre Charles L’ Enfant, and his plans were doubtless ex-
amined, criticised, and approved by Washington. His original
manuscript map, now faded and worn, isin the War Department
THE NATIONAL CAPITAL O27
in the custody of the Chief of Engineers. Some ten years ago this
now precious manuscript was taken to the Coast Survey office,
where it was carefully traced, photolithographed, and published.
Copies of it are (or were) obtainable at the Coast Survey office.
This map may be said to represent Washington in embryo.
Great praise is due to the proud L’Enfant for the part he took in
designing the city; but his zeal, his pride, and his impetuosity
soon brought a rupture; his services were dispensed with; the
pay tendered him was spurned as unworthy of him. His remains
rest in an unmarked grave in private grounds in the northeastern
suburbs of the city. The relative credit due to L’Enfant and to
Ellicott for the part taken by each in designing and laying out
the city is still a mooted question, and the disagreement as to
this is doubtless the reason why to this day no suitable public
recognition of their services has ever been made.
The interval between 1791 and 1800 was spent in erecting pub-
lic buildings—“ the President’s House,” “‘ the Congress House,”
and others. In 1800 the government records were all brought
over from Philadelphia. On June 15 the public offices were ~
first opened. Thus June 15, 1900, will be a suitable day for <
public holiday in Washington for commemoration and retro-
spect. Men still live in-Washington whose fathers served the
United States in Philadelphia and who followed that little bunch
of records—the entire archives of the Republic—to the imagin-
ary city in the real wilderness on the Potomac, nearly a century
ago.
According to the census of 1800, the “inhabitants of the city
of Washington numbered 3,210 souls.” Down to 1850 or later
Washington continued to bea great straggling village. It grew,
but it grew slowly. The foreign ambassador whose assignment
brought him to Washington was prone to feel that he was ban-
ished. No pavements, no water supply save from pumps in
wells scattered here and there, no sewerage system, no street
cars, few schools and poor, and distances ‘‘ magnificently great.”
Indeed, Washington’s greatness still existed chiefly in the imag-
ination of its projectors. No manufactures brought workmen
here; it was not a commercial center. Indeed, it might be
likened to a great straggling college town, where all life is de-
rived either at first or second hand from the college. So here
there grew up about the government offices boarding-houses for
the transients and shopkeepers to supply the boarding-houses.
The war of 1812 had made little impress on the capital. The
328 THE HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF
British troops occupied the city for a few hours in August, 1814,
burned the White House, set fire to the Capitol, and retired.
But the civil war, 1861-1865, had a very different effect and
made a lasting impress. Washington for four years was one:
ereat military camp and hospital. A cordon of earthworks
many miles in extent surrounded the city. Bluecoats were
everywhere, and the passing of endless trains of bronzed veter-
ans, of sick and wounded, of artillery, of supplies, was too com-
mona sight to attract either notice or comment. Into this camp
there came by railroad one evening Mrs Julia Ward Howe.
Long abominating slavery, she saw in all this stern turmoil the
fruition of the abolitionists’ hope, and that out of this war was
to emerge freedom for black and white alike. From the car
windows could be seen the camp-fires stretching miles away.
After making a round of visits to various camps, the following
day she returned to her hotel, her heart all on fire, and there
wrote that immortal Battle Hymn of the Republic, beginning—
Mine eyes have seen the glory of the coming of the Lord,
He is trampling out the vintage where the grapes of wrath are stored.
Recalling the circumstances under which the lines were penned,
we can the better understand such a line as this:
I have seen Him in the watch-fires of a hundred circling camps.
But the war ended at last. During it even Pennsylvania
avenue, a street now as widely and as favorably known as any
_ in the world, was at times a veritable mud-hole, wherein artil-
lery and wagon trains sometimes stalled. The ‘ White lot”
and the “Monument grounds ” ceased to be used for slaughtering
cattle for the army; the great mule-drawn wagons no longer
went daily to the Capitol for the tons of bread baked in the little
rooms under its west steps; the churches no longer housed the
war-mangled and disease-stricken, and the war scars about the
city began quickly to heal. The unsightliness of the half-fin-
ished dome of the Capitol faded with its completion. The tract
of neglected undergrowth and wild woods, with its surrounding
dilapidated picket fence, was transformed into the park which
now faces the east front of the Capitol. The Washington mon-
ument, which all during and for years after the war stood as an
unsightly stump surmounted by wooden scaffolding, grew to a
stately shaft, a thing of beauty, and the débris and litter which
for twenty years or more had cumbered the ground at its base
THE NATIONAL CAPITAL 329
at last vanished. The old system of schools gave way to the new
and in 1876 Washington for the first time had a high school. Its
Baptist college, now Columbian University with 1,000 students,
dates from 1821, while the Jesuit college in Georgetown is yet
older.
The unique character of Washington and of its attractions
steadily grows. Little by little with passing years men and
women so circumstanced that they may live where they will
select Washington fora home. ‘The opportunities it affords for
much of all that makes life attractive have been well expressed
by one who has come to abide here: “ Four years in Washing-
ton to one who will take what may be had for the taking,
much less the asking, is equivalent to a college education.”
GEOGRAPHIC WORK OF THE GENERAL GOVERNMENT
By Henry GANNETT,
United States Geological Survey G
The United States is engaged, through the agency of a num-
ber of bureaus and departments, in extensive geographic work,
both within its own borders and in various parts of the world.
The results of this work are embodied in maps, charts, and re-
ports, which furnish a vast amount of information; indeed,
these form the principal original source of information regard-
ing the geography of the United States in all its aspects—topo-
graphic, climatic, geologic, biologic, and industrial. Many of
these reports and maps are furnished free, while others are,
under the law, to be obtained only by purchase.
The following are the principal bureaus and departments
which are engaged in geographic work:
Coast and Geodetic Survey.
Hydrographic Office, U. S. Navy.
Engineer Corps, U. 8. Army.
Geological Survey.
General Land Office.
Weather Bureau, Biological Survey, and other divisions of the De-
partment of Agriculture.
Smithsonian Institution and its dependencies.
Fish Commission.
Light-house Board.
Bureau of American Republics.
Intercontinental Railway Commission.
330 GHOGRAPHIC WORK OF GENERAL GOVERNMENT
GEOLOGICAL SURVEY
The Geological Survey is charged by law with the examina-
tion of the geological structure, the mineral resources, and with
the classification of the public lands of the United States. It
was organized in 1879, upon the discontinuance of the Hayden,
Wheeler, and Powell surveys of the Rocky Mountain region.
As the successful prosecution of the work confided to it re-
quired the possession of accurate topographic maps, the prepa-
ration of such maps was commenced in 1882, and a large pro-
portion of the appropriations for the Survey have been devoted
to this work.
The work of the Survey, as at present organized, is as follows:
The preparation of topographic maps.
The preparation of geologic maps.
The technical and statistical study of mineral resources.
The study of the water resources of the arid region.
The examination of the forests of the west.
Chemistry and paleontology as accessories to the geologic work.
The Geological Survey began, in 1882, the construction of a
topographic map of the country. The work has now been in
progress 16 years, and about 650,000 square miles have been
mapped. The areas shown on these maps are scattered widely
over the country, and represent a great variety of topographic
features, and the map sheets can be used to illustrate topographic
forms. These maps differ in scale. Some of them are on the scale
1 : 62.500, which is very nearly one mile to one inch. Another
scale is 1: 125,000, which is very nearly two miles to one inch,
and a third scale is 1 : 250,000, or nearly four miles to one inch.
Sheets.—For convenience this map is published in sheets of
nearly uniform size, the portion of the sheet covered by the map-
ping being usually 172 inches in height, with a breadth ranging,
according to latitude, from 12% to 15 inches. Each sheet on the
scale 1: 250,000 includes what is commonly called a “square
degree,” an area one degree in extent in each dimension (for in-
stance, latitude 40° to 41° and longitude 90° to 91°). <A sheet
on the scale 1 : 125,000, which is of approximately the same size,
includes a tract of country 30’ in latitude by 30’ in longitude, or
one-fourth of a square degree, and a sheet on the largest scale,
1 : 62,500, includes an area 15’ in latitude by 15’ in longitude, or
one-sixteenth of a square degree.
Contents—This map shows features which, for convenience,
GHOGRAPHIC WORK OF GENERAL GOVERNMENT 3:
Qo
—
may be classed in three groups, viz: water features, including
the sea, lakes, ponds, rivers and other natural streams, and canals
and irrigation ditches ; land features, including mountains, hills,
and valleys; and cultural features, or the works of man, such as
towns and cities, roads, railroads, boundaries, and names.
Water featwres.—All water features are shown in blue, the
smaller streams and canals'in full blue lines, and the larger
streams, lakes, and the sea by wavy blue lining. Certain streams,
however, flow only a part of the year, being dry at other times,
and such streams are shown not by full lines, but by dotted blue
lines. Fresh-water marshes and swamps are shown by broken
horizontal lining, interspersed with tufts of blue. Salt-water
marshes are shown simply by horizontal blue lining.
Cultuwre-—The works of man are shown on the map in black,
in which color also is printed the lettering. They are enumer-
ated,and the characters used to represent them are given in what
is called the legend at the side of the map.
Land features.—The land features, commonly called the relief,
include all the variations of the surface, the alternation of moun-
tain and valley, plateau and canyon, hill and plain. ‘These
features are represented by means of contour lines, or lines of
equal elevation above the,level of the sea. The line of sea-coast
itself is a contour line—the line at zero elevation. The contour
line at, say, 20 feet above sea-level is the line which would be the
sea-coast, if the sea were to rise or the land to sink 20 feet. Such
a line would run back up the valleys and forward around the
points of hills and spurs. On a gentle slope this 20-foot contour
line would be far from the present sea-level, while on a steep
slope it would be very close to it. So a succession of these con-
tour lines, one above another, with equal vertical spaces between
them, would, if they were far apart on the map, indicate a gentle
slope; if they were close together, a steep slope; and if they
were run into a single line, as if they were on top of one an-
other, they would indicate a cliff. The contour lines of any
region, when represented on a map, show the elevation of any
part of the map above the sea. They also show the slopes of
the ground and the forms of the mountains, hills, and valleys;
in short, of all the relief features. These contour lines are
printed in brown.
The geological work proper of the Survey consists in a study
of the rock formations and in the mapping of their extent and
form. The results are published in annual reports, in mono-
graphs, and in geological folios.
3382 GEOGRAPHIC WORK OF GENERAL GOVERNMENT
The Division of Hydrography in the Geological Survey has in
charge the examination of the water resources of the United
States, both above and under ground. Measurements are made
of the amount of water discharged by various rivers in different
parts of the United States, and from the facts thus obtained
computations are had of the daily flow, thus giving the fluctu-
ations through periods of seasons and years. At the same time,
a careful study is carried on in certain localities of the geologic
structure with especial reference to the ability of the rocks to
receive and transmit water, and, where practicable, maps are
prepared showing the depth of the principal water-bearing strata,
so that it is possible for any person to form a fairly definite idea
as to the probability of obtaining supphes for various purposes.
The economic bearing of information of this character is readily
recognized when consideration is had of questions of develop-
ment of water-power, the supplying of cities or country homes
with water, or the extension of agriculture through irrigation.
In the west, where the farmer must apply water artificially be-
fore a crop can be raised, it is obvious that the supply must be
ascertained before a great extension of tilled land can be possi-
ble. We know that the amount of water available in the arid
region is far less than the demands made upon it; so much so
that it may be said that all land value depends upon the water
supply. The United States, being the great landowner, has
before it the problem of the reclamation of this vast extent of
fertile country, and each citizen, as part owner, is concerned in
seeing that the largest use is made of the water.
The Forest Division is engaged in making an examination of
the forest reserves in the west, with a view to learning the amount
of timber contained therein, the distribution of species, the con-
ditions of growth,and a large group of facts essential for the proper
management of these reserves. It is engaged further in the col-
lection of statistics for standing timber throughout the west.
The first report of this division will appear as a part of the
Annual Report of the Survey for the past year, and will be ac-
companied by a portfolio of maps.
The Division of Statistics collects the statistics of production
of metals and minerals and publishes the results in an annual
report.
The publications of the Survey consist of atlas sheets and other
maps, geological folios, annual reports, bulletins, and mono-
graphs. The atlas sheets are sold individually at five cents, or
GEOGRAPHIC WORK OF GENERAL GOVERNMENT — 333
two dollars per hundred. Other maps are sold at different prices,
depending upon their size. The annual reports are free to apph-
eants. The monographs and bulletins are, under the law, sold
at certain stated prices.
SMITIHISONIAN INSTITUTION AND ITS DEPENDENCIES
The Smithsonian Institution was created in 1846, under the
provisions of a bequest by James Smithson, and has since been
maintained by use of the interest on the sum originally be-
queathed and the various additions made subsequently. Ac-
cordingly the work of the Institution is not conducted under the
auspices of the government, though the fund is administered
by a regency appointed by the government, and different lines
of scientific work undertaken by the government have been from
time to time conducted under the direction of the Institution.
During its earlier years the Smithsonian Institution gave
much attention to the encouragement of geographic work and
began a series of meteorologic observations now continued in
the Weather Bureau. It also promoted geologic work and
aided in the establishment of the Federal Geological Surveys.
Throughout it has been the policy of the Institution to initiate
lines of scientific work of public importance, to maintain them
until their importance came to be recognized, and then to trans-
fer them to the general government. In carrying out this policy
the Institution has contributed in large measure to the develop-
ment of the scientific institutions of the National Capital.
There are now three federal bureaus connected with the
Smithsonian Institution, but maintained by federal appropri-
ations, viz., the United States National Museum, the National
Zoological Park, and the Bureau of American Ethnology. The
National Museum issues an annual report and other publica-
tions relating to its work and the collections made and displayed,
while the superintendent of the Zoological Park issues an annual
report in connection with that of the Institution. No surveys
or extensive field researches are made by these bureaus.
The Bureau of American Ethnology is engaged in researches
relating to the American Indians, its operations extending over
the United States and other American territory, and the distri-
bution of the aborigines being mapped from time to time. It
issues annual reports, which are well illustrated and commonly
accompanied by maps; these are distributed chiefly by Congress.
334 GEOGRAPHIC WORK OF GENERAL GOVERNMENT
THE CENSUS
The Census Office is a temporary organization created for the
purpose of taking the decennial census. The census obtains sta-
tistics regarding population, including age, sex, race, nativity,
and, in the case of native-born, the state of birth and the occu-
pations of the people; it obtains statistics of illiteracy and edu-
cation, of mortality, of the insane, deaf, dumb, and blind, and
other social statistics ; 1t obtains statistics of industries, includ-
ing under the head of agriculture the number, size, and value
of farms, the amount of cultivated land, the magnitude of all
principal crops, amount of live stock, etc.; under the head of
manufactures the number of each kind of establishments, with
their capital, material used, product, and employés ; under the
head of mining it obtains statistics of the number of mines and —
their character and product ; under the head of transportation
it obtains statistics concerning the operations of railroads (includ-
ing street railroads), canals and navigation, coastwise and on our
lakes and rivers. The results are published in a series of quarto
volumes, and are summarized in a compendium and in an ab-
stract. They are further summarized, mainly in pictorial form,
in a statistical atlas. All these publications can be obtained
on application to the Secretary of the Interior.
HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE
This is a branch of the Navy Department and is in charge of
a naval officer, known as the hydrographer. The function of
this office is to prepare from the best available sources and to
publish charts of foreign coasts for the use of our navy and the
merchant marine.
Besides this work, the office is engaged in a study of terres-
trial magnetism and its distribution over the earth, as an aid to
the navigator, and in the study of marine meteorology and
ocean currents.
The navy has charted great extents of coast of barbarous na-
tions, and the results have been published by this office. It has
also made valuable contributions to our knowledge of the sea
bottom, particularly in the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean sea,
by deep-sea soundings.
The charts published by this office are sold at prices differing
with the size of the chart.
GHOGRAPHIC WORK OF GENERAL GOVERNMENT ~ 335
GENERAL LAND OFFICE
This office is charged with all matters relating to the disposal
of the public lands. In pursuance of this duty its first function
is to subdivide these lands into parcels suitable for sale or other
mode of disposition. The method of subdivision of the public
lands has been, in its main features, a consistent one from the
beginning. The land is divided by survey into townships six
miles square, and each of these into sections of one square mile.
These sections may be in turn ‘subdivided. This work is done
in the main by contract, at certain rates per linear mile. The
surveyors are required to prepare and file maps or plats of the
townships subdivided, and thus there has accumulated in the
Land Office a vast body of maps, representing an area of overa
million square miles. These maps are upon the uniform scale
of two inches to one mile, but they are of varying degrees of ex-
cellence. From these plats the Land Office compiles and pub-
lishes state maps, at present upon a uniform scale of twelve miles
to an inch, and these maps form the basis of most of the atlas
mapsinuse. Besides this series the Land Office compiles a map
of the entire United States, upon a scale of about forty miles to
one inch. The state maps can be obtained upon application to
the Commissioner of the General Land Office. The United States
maps are sold at a price of $1.00.
Besides this work of subdivision, with the resulting maps,
this office superintends the survey of the state and territorial
boundaries.
THE LIGHT-HOUSE ESTABLISHMENT
The Light-house establishment is in charge of the Light-house
Board, under the Secretary of the Treasury. Its duties are to
maintain upon the coast, lake shores, and navigable rivers a
system of lights and buoys for the guidance of mariners.
COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY
This organization was created by Congress in 1807, but little
work was done under this act until 1832. Since that time the
Coast Survey has been in continuous operation. It is charged
with the survey of the Atlantic, Gulf, and Pacific coasts of the
United States, including rivers to the head of tide-water or ship
navigation. It has carried on extensive deep-sea soundings, to-
gether with temperature and current observations, especially in
336 GEOGRAPHIC WORK OF GENERAL GOVERNMENT
that part of the Atlantic traversed by the Gulf stream. It con-
ducts also magnetic observations for the determination of the
direction, dip, and force of the earth’s magnetism, and measures
the force of gravity by means of the pendulum. It is carrying
on accurate triangulation in the interior of the country, having
already completed a belt across the continent from east to west,
together with a large amount of similar work done in aid of
state surveys. In addition to this triangulation in the interior,
lines of accurate levels have been run over many thousands of
miles.
The results of this work are published in the form of charts of
the coast upon various scales, upon some of which the relief is
represented by hachures, upon others by contours. ‘These
charts are sold at prices differing with the size of the chart.
There are also published annual reports, in which are contained
papers upon geographic subjects pertaining to the work of the
Survey.
CORPS OF ENGINEERS, U. S. A.
The War Department carries on a great variety of geographic
work, mainly through its Corps of Engineers. By this office
has been executed a complete survey of the shores of the Great
Lakes and of the St Lawrence. The charts resulting from this
survey are upon various scales, dependent upon the needs of
navigators, and are sold at prices differing with the size of the
chart. The Mississippi and Missouri River Commissions are in
the nature of advisory boards to the Chief of Engineers. By the
Mississippi River Commission that river has been mapped from
its mouth far up into Illinois and the results published upon
various scales, the largest being 1 : 20,000, in contours; another
on a scale of one mile to an inch, while the whole alluvial region
of the Mississippi, from Cairo to the Gulf, has been issued in
one large map, on a scale of four miles to an inch, in eight
sheets.
The Missouri River Commission has mapped that river from
its mouth to the Three Forks, in Montana, publishing the maps
upon various scales, ranging from one mile to an inch upward.
The Engineer Corps has mapped also the Ohio river from
Pittsburg to its mouth, the Arkansas, Red, White, and Yellow-
stone rivers. Copies of these maps can be obtained by applica-
tion to the Chief of Engineers.
To this organization has been entrusted also the survey of
parts of our international boundary.
GEOGRAPHIC WORK OF GENERAL GOVERNMENT 337
Between 1867 and 1878 extensive surveys and explorations of
the west were made under Maj. George M. Wheeler. Of many
parts of the west the maps prepared by this organization are the
only ones to be obtained. They were published upon a scale
of fourand eight miles to an inch, in hachures. ‘These maps are
now extremely scarce and difficult to obtain.
The Corps of Engineers is charged with the improvement of
harbors and rivers, in aid of navigation, and in pursuance of this
work it has carried on extensive surveys, but mainly of small
areas. The resulting maps are published in the annual reports
of that office, which can be obtained from the Chief of Engineers.
WEATHER BUREAU AND OTHER OFFICES AND DIVISIONS OF THE
DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
The primary function of the Weather Bureau is to predict the
weather. This work requires the constant maintenance of hun-
dreds of meteorological stations, scattered over the country, at
which continuous observations of pressure, temperature, rain-
fall, humidity, and winds are made, thus furnishing the material
for an exhaustive description of the climatology of the country.
It involves also an exhaustive study of the science of meteor-
ology. It includes also a’close watch of the great rivers for the
purpose of predicting floods.
The publications of this office are voluminous. ‘They consist
of a weather map, published daily, showing the climatic condi-
tions prevailing in all parts of the country on that morning;
weekly weather maps, showing summaries of the conditions; a
monthly weather review -and annual reports. In addition to
these, bulletins are published containing treatises on meteor-
ologic and chmatologic subjects, summaries of statistics, etc.
All these may be obtained on application to the Chief of the
Weather Bureau.
Besides the Weather Bureau, the Department of Agriculture
contains a number of divisions and offices, much of whose work
is geographic. The Biological Survey, the Divisions of Forestry,
Botany, Agrostology, Entomology, and Pomology are concerned,
in great part, with the distribution of life in the country, and in
so far their work is geographic.
The Biological Survey studies the geographic distribution of
animals and plants, and maps the natural life zones of the coun-
try, besides investigating the economic relations of birds and
mammals.
op
23
338 GHOGRAPHIC WORK OF GENERAL GOVERNMENT
The Division of Forestry is engaged in the study of sylvicul-
ture, and in the management, protection, and utilization of our
forests.
The Division of Agrostology investigates the natural history,
geographic distribution, and uses of grasses and other forage
plants.
The Division of Botany investigates the purity and value of
seeds, methods of controlling the spread of weeds or preventing
their introduction. It studies the native plant resources of the
country.
The Division of Entomology studies insects injurious to vege-
tation, their distribution and spread, and the methods for reduc-
ing their ravages.
The Division of Pomology has to do with the culture of fruits.
The publications of this department are of three classes:
first, serial publications; second, scientific and technical reports.
These two classes are issued in limited editions and are not in-
tended for general distribution, being particularly designed for
libraries, institutions of learning, and scientific students. Third,
popular bulletins, which are issued in large editions and are sent
free to applicants. Lists of the publications are sent on appli-
cation.
FISH COMMISSION
This office was created for the purpose of maintaining and in-
creasing the supply of food fishes, both upon our shores and in
our rivers. As a necessary adjunct to this work, exhaustive
studies are being made of the life history of fishes and of their
distribution. The publications of the Fish Commission consist
of an annual report.
BUREAU OF AMERICAN REPUBLICS
The function of this Bureau is to obtain and publish com-
mercial information concerning the American republics. Its
publications consist of handbooks of these countries, a monthly
bulletin containing the latest information regarding their re-
sources and commerce, and a commercial directory.
INTERCONTINENTAL RAILWAY COMMISSION
This Commission was formed for the purpose of examining
the best routes for an intercontinental railway to connect the
United States with the republics of Central and South America.
Its work is completed and reports and maps will shortly be
issued.
iP GeOvroeGiG AtTwAsS OF TE UNITED: SVAGES
In the course of his study of the elements of greatness of na-
tions, Buckle concluded that there are three normal stages in
national development—the stage of agriculture, followed first by
the stage of manufacture and eventually by the stage of foreign
commerce. Buckle’s conclusions were based on the study of
nations confined by territorial limits, and so situated as to derive
support through commerce with other nations of different re-
sources and (generally) inferior intelligence and industry. Since
Buckle’s time the population of the world has increased and
spread far beyond his realization, and new factors have been in-
troduced in the problems of statecraft. This is particularly true
of the First Republic of America, which controls a vast territory
and possesses within itself nearly every necessary resource. By
reason of the new conditions, the actual history of this republic
has become a great object lesson in statecraft ; and the experience
of the nation, built as it were on a new foundation, has wrought
out conclusions of even weightier significance than those of Buckle.
One of these conclusions is that the nation desiring to progress
well in the race for success must have within itself the territory
requisite for agriculture, the resources for manufacture, and the
facilities for extended commerce, all growing up together and all
fostered by a single people united in interest and purpose. An_
other conclusion wrought out by national history is related to
those formulated by Buckle; it is that national progress is as-
sured by increase in intelligent activity on the part of masses
and leaders alike. With the normal increase of population and
of national intelligence, the economic problems and the means of
meeting them gradually change; intensive agriculture makes
‘““two blades of grass grow where one grew before ” and converts
coarse vegetal tissue into richer animal food, wholesale manu-
facture diversifies industries, and abundant commerce at once
differentiates the individuals and welds their interests into per-
fect solidarity. Asagriculture grows intensive through more in-
telligent cultivation, so all industries are made intensive by pres-
sure of need and reaction of intelligence; and current thought
adjusts itself to constantly changing conditions.
A significant expression of the national growth of the United
339
340 THE GEOLOGIC ATLAS OF THE UNITED STATES
States is found in the development of geographic problems and
results. In earlier decades the geographic work was exploratory,
and bent toward the discovery and conquest of unknown or little-
known territory. As time passed, more and more attention was
given to the resources of the newly discovered valleys and plains,
mountains and forests; and, now that the exploration of our ter-
ritory is complete, the efforts of the pioneers are deyoted to dis-
covery of new resources. This change in purpose, albeit gradual,
cannot be toa strongly impressed. The earlier work was areal
and largely limited to the surveys of the land, the present work
has a vertical element reaching toward the resources of the rocks
below and the powers of the air and vapor above; the earlier
studies related to materials, the present investigations relate to
natural powers and potentialities—in brief, the one sought to
subjugate matter, the other seeks to make conquest of force.
Various instrumentalities of national character have contributed
toward this transformation in beneficent activity, but none have
contributed more, especially during the last dozen years, than
the U. 8. Geological Survey.
During the earlier years of its existence the Geological Survey
devoted chief attention to topographic surveying and mapping,
the maps being designed for subsequent use by the geologist;
and the bureau came to be known favorably throughout the
country and the world by reason of the extent and excellence of
the topographic maps. During this period a corps of geologists
were employed in researches designed partly for the develop-
ment of a system of classification adapted to the subsequent
geologic mapping. The two branches of the work were judi-
ciously codrdinated by Director Powell, so that when the topo-
graphic surveys were sufficiently advanced in different districts
the geologists were provided with adequate classific systems, and
were able to proceed at once to effective geologic work; and
this coordination has been continued by Director Walcott with
the normal increase in production of geologic maps.
The plan of publication adopted by the Survey marks an
epoch in the history of practical scientific work ; for it is de-
signed to bring the results of the most advanced scientific re-
search within the reach of every citizen of the nation, and within
the mental grasp of every graduate from the public schools of
America; the plan represents more fully than any hitherto de-
vised in any country the idea of distributing broadcast among
the people the rich boon of scientific knowledge. Only a gene-
VHE GEOLOGIC ATLAS OF THE UNITED STATES o41
ration ago several of the world’s intellectual leaders occupied
themselves most laudably in teaching the beneficence of science
and its freedom from mystery; today the teaching has become
an object lesson through the Geologic Atlas of the United States.
An example—it may not be invidious to say the finest exam-
ple to date—of the ‘“‘atlas folios” issued by the Survey is the
Pueblo Folio, by G. K. Gilbert.* Like the rest of the series, it is
a thin folio, 217 by 182 inches, bound in a moderately stiff ma-
nilla paper. The first cover pagé bears an index map showing
the position of the area represented, and also of other published
folos, with respect to considerable adjacent territory ; while the
second and third cover pages contain an elementary “ Explana-
tion” setting forth in simple language the principles and methods
of topographic mapping, and the classification and conventions
used in the geologic mapping. This text is general, equally
applicable to all atlas folios, and signed by the Director. Like
most of the other examples, the folio proper comprises (1) a pre-
liminary descriptive text, followed by (2) a topographic atlas
sheet representing the “quadrangle” (or tract) to which the
folio is devoted, (3) a geologic map of the same tract, (4) an
economic map of the tract showing the distribution and indicat-
ing the value of the important resources, (5) a sheet of sections
exhibiting the structure of the tract, and (6) special supplement-
ary illustrations. In this instance the special illustrations com-
prise (a) a lithographic reproduction of a model showing the
deformation of the tract during a particular epoch, (>) a map
showing the distribution and depth of phreatic water within
reach of artesian and pumping wells, (c) a series of columnar sec-
tions showing in detail the structure and thickness of the beds,
and (d) illustrations of typical fossils and rock-structures. Like
other folios of the series (of which this is No. 386), the work is
distributed to certain libraries and other depositories, and is
sold, on application to the Director of the Survey, for 50 cents.
The “ Description of the Pueblo Quadrangle ” forming the au-
thorial text of this folio is especially noteworthy as representing
the work of one of the foremost geologists of the world in a
peculiarly instructive geologic province. It begins with an intro-
duction in which the terminology is explained. This is followed
* Department of the interior | United States Geological Survey | Charles D. Walcott,
Director | Geologie Atlas | of the | United States | Pueblo Folio | Colorado. [Index map,
list of sheets, ete.] Washington, D. C. | Engraved and printed by the U.S. Geological
Survey | Bailey Willis, Editor of Geologie maps. S. J. Kubel, Chief Engraver |
1897.
342 THE GEOLOGIC ATLAS OF THE UNITED STATES
by a summary account of the geography, including climate and
vegetation, agriculture, etc. Next follows an account of the gen-
eral geology, including a history of physical changes, set forth
verbally and graphically. In this division of the work the char-
acteristics of the formations are described, the sources of materials
are considered, the subsequent alterations recorded in texture
and structure are investigated, and the great orogenic and epeiro-
genic movements that produced the majestic Rocky mountains
and (especially) the broad plains at their base are interpreted—
7. €., the phenomena are treated both locally and comparatively,
and in remarkably luminous and attractive fashion. The for-
mations range from recent alluvium through earlier Pleistocene,
Neocene, Cretaceous, Juratrian, Carboniferous, and Silurian to
the Archean nucleus exposed in the ranges; and there were sey-
eral periods of deformation, the movements of which have been
analyzed and clearly set forth. In describing the formations
and discussing the deformations full recognition is given to the
principles of geomorphy and to homogenic correlation, and the
history of the tract is thereby made clear and definite. There
is a final chapter on economic geology in which the resources,
including phreatic water, are fully described.
This synopsis merely indicates the scope of a notable publica-
tion; it does not and cannot give any adequate idea of the high
scientific and educational value of a great work which can be
properly appreciated only afterexamination. Itis not too much
to say that this atlas folio by itself would, in the hands of a com-
petent teacher, serve as a complete introduction to geology, by
means of which any pupil might gain an elementary knowledge
of the science; or that in the hands of a competent teacher (or,
indeed, of an intelligent student without a teacher) within the
tract described the work would be more serviceable than any
manual or text-book of geology ever written. The publication
of these atlas-folios representing particular tracts in all parts of
the country is bound to revolutionize geologic teaching quickly,
completely, and permanently. WJ M.
Ar the annual meeting of the Royal Geographical Society,
held recently in London, the Founders’ Medal of the Society
was conferred on Dr Sven Hedin for his explorations in Central
Asia, and the Patrons’ Medal on Lieut. Robert E. Peary, U.S. N.,
for his work in Greenland.
Hie tOPOGRAPHICG ATLAS OF HE UNITED STATES
“Tn 1882 the United States Geological Survey began the con-
struction of a topographic map of the country. The work has
now been in progress fourteen years, and about 600,000 square
miles have been mapped. The areas shown on these maps are
scattered widely over the country and represent a great variety
of topographic features, and the map sheets, with the aid of de-
scriptive text, can be used to illustrate topographic forms. This
led the Director to propose the publication of an educational
series of folios, for use wherever geography is taught in high
schools, academies, and colleges. Authority for their publica-
tion and sale was granted by Congress in an act approved March
2,1895. . . . The first folio of the series presents on ten
maps illustrations of some of the simplest and most character-
istic types of topography to be found in those parts of the United
States which have thus far been mapped. Succeeding folios
will illustrate more complex forms.”
So Henry Gannett, Geographer of the United States Geolog-
ical Survey, introduces an illustrated treatise in folio form on
the “Land Forms of the United States.” *
When geographic exploration brought to the knowledge of
men the unparalleled Grand Canyon of the Colorado and the
picturesque plateau country adjacent, the way was prepared for
the discovery of new principles in geographic development; in
good time Powell descended the Canyon, and he and his collab-
orators surveyed the plateau country, and as the work pro-
eressed the “ baselevel of erosion” was recognized. The idea
quickly took root, and grew into one of the fundamental princi-
ples of earth-science ; spreading eastward into provinces already
reconnoitered or surveyed, it was found to afford a new means
for interpreting earth-history, and thereafter the later stages in
the geographic development of the continent were read from land
forms as well as from fossil plants and animals. The principle
* Department of the Interior | United States Geological Survey | Charles D. Walcott,
Director | —— | Topographie Atlas | of the | United States | Physiographie Types | by |
Henry Gannett | | [List of Contents, ete.] | Folio 1 Physiography | Washington,
D. C. | Engraved and printed by the U. 8. Geological Survey |S. J. Ktbel, Chief En-
graver | 1898.
344 THE TOPOGRAPHIC ATLAS OF THE UNITED STATES
was applied in southeastern United States, where the important
episodes in continental history are clearly recorded in the pla-
teaus and canyons of the Piedmont region, and where the minor
movements are recorded in unconformities separating the de-
posits of the Coastal plain; it was applied most successfully in
New England and elsewhere by Professor Davis, who reads earth-
history from topographic maps. Within a dozen years the prin-
ciple has been widely recognized among investigators, and has
given birth to a science—Geomorphology or the New Geology.
Thus far this line of learning has mainly been confined toa
limited number of original investigators and teachers in high
erade educational institutions, and has lain beyond the reach of
the general school and the citizen ; but now Mr Gannett’s trea-
tise, issued by a public office, brings this distinctively American
advance in science within reach of the American public.
The atlas comprises ten maps, of which the first three are de-
voted to the now well-known stages in topographic develop-
ment—youth, maturity, and old age. The fourth illustrates a
rejuvenated region, typifying the Piedmont plateau. The fifth
map represents a young voleanic mountain, its subject being
our magnificent voleanic cone, Mount Shasta. Moraines and
drumlins, representing characteristic phases of ice-work, are
shown on the sixth and seventh sheets, and a fiord coast, with
its picturesque record of ice-work half drowned in ocean, forms
the subject of the ninth sheet. The two remaining sheets illus-
trate river flood-plains and a barrier-beach coast. The text in-
cludes an exposition of the conventions used in topographic
mapping, and a full description of each of the sheets with a
fuller interpretation of its features as records of geographic de-
velopment.
The issue of this folio marks an epoch in geographic teaching.
Hitherto teachers have been limited in their work to glittering
generalities in the books, or to the maze of little-understood real-
ities in their sight; but now comes a series of American illustra-
tions, shown in such detail that any teacher may correlate the
features with those of his own landscape, and these are inter-
preted by the hand of a master su clearly that even the average
pupil cannot fail to read aright.
The atlas folio may be obtained at the nominal price of 25
cents on application to the Director of the Geological Survey.
W JM.
BEST LINE
Guieaco on Sr. Louis
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TELEGRAPH LINES, Andale Ge
ING, DOCKING, AND. REPAIR
STATIONS, with explanatory article,
for number 3 of volume in Nationa Groce |
M aGAZINE.
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Editor: JOHN HYDE
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\w J McGEE ais) HENRY GANNETT.
C) HART MERRIAM ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE
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| 2 | 7
“CONTENTS —
. PWR ess PAGE
Ww a McGEE. 345
|
E. ses Bers YORK une.
NGS THE NaTIONaL GHO@RAPHIC SOCIETY.
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THE.
National Geographic Society :
Ticheaisal ~
ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL
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W J McGEE
Boarp oF MANAGERS
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WILLIAM H. DALL HENRY F. BLOUNT HENRY GANNETT
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(AdVOSGNV1 LYSSAG-dNS IWOIdAL) VNOZIYV ‘SdW3L YVAN « NIVLNMOW S3HL NI 31OH, WOU MIA
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Ol “1d ‘8681 ‘XI “1OA “OVW “SOAS “LVN
National Geographic Magazine
Vou. IX AUGUST. 1898 No. 8
PAPAGUERIA
By W J McGEr,
Bureau of American Ethnology
Following acustom which became well established in the days
of Mexican colonization, the priestly pioneers called the arid re-
gion beyond the Sierra Madre mountains Papagueria—i. ¢., the
Land of the Papago—from the tribe of Indians native to the
country ; and in time the tribesmen, and after them the Ameri-
can and Mexican settlers on their border, adopted the designa-
tion. The district lies south of Gila river and southwest of the
Sierra Madre, in what is now Arizona and Sonora, and is bounded
on the southwest by the Gulf of California and on the south by
the ill-defined district known as Seriland ; it is some 200 miles
wide in the north, narrowing somewhat southward, and over 300
miles in length from north-northwest to south-southeast, the area
reaching over 50,000 square miles, or about that of New York
or lowa. The larger part of the district Hes in Mexico, in the
state of Sonora, though the greater part of the aboriginal popu-
lation is gathered in the northern portion, within the territory
of Arizona.
The Papago Indians (Pa-paf’ in their own language*) are, in
distinctiveness and persistence of characters if not in population,
* Their proper name in their own language is Aw/-aw-tum (Men, or People), while
the name by which they were known to neighboring tribes of their own and other lin-
guistic stocks is that of a legume cultivated and consumed by them in prehistoric
times and later; this, in the Piman dialects, is called ‘‘ paf”’ in the singular, ‘‘ pa-paf’”’
in the plural, so that the literal designation of the tribe may be rendered ‘“‘ Beans.”
Since the same term is applied to the field in which the legumes are grown, the term
might be considered to mean ‘‘ Bean-patch;”’ but in reality it means “‘ Bean people,”
the second element being understood. This alien designation was apparently used
24
VINTANVdVd TO AWNVITIA NVIGNI-NVOIXOW : VOUNATIO
PAPAGUERIA 347
the leading branch of the Piman stock or linguistic family. Ac-
cording to several authorities, the Piman is related to the Na-
huatlan of Mexico, the great and highly advanced stock of the
Montezumas. Besides the Papago, the Piman group includes
the Pima tribe of southwestern Arizona, the Opata of the border,
and four or five tribes altogether in Mexico. The Opata have
been assimilated by the Mexicans, and the Pima Indians are
largely gathered on reservations; the Papago remain distinct,
and while a small number are domiciled on the reservation at
San Xavier (near Tucson) the greater part of the tribe retain
their independence and essential autonomy.
The Papago population within the limits of the United States
in 1890 was 5,163, according to the census of that year. These
figures were based largely on estimates. The population esti-
mate for the entire tribe made during the explorations by the
Bureau of American Ethnology in 1894 and 1895 was 4,000, of
whom ten to forty per cent, according to the season, are in Mexico.
Papagueria is perhaps the most arid region on the continent.
The surface slopes southwestward from the imposing Sierra
Madre with its subordinate ranges, and is relieved by many lesser
ranges generally trending parallel with the main chain. As the
vapor-laden air drifts from the Pacific and the gulf over the sun-
parched land it is heated to dryness ; but about midsummer and
again about midwinter the air is chilled again as it drifts over
main or minor crests, and fierce storms occur in the mountains
and occasionally sweep into the plains. The annual precipita-
tion along the margin of the Sierra is recorded as 15 inches, and
in the higher portions it probably reaches 20 inches; but it
quickly diminishes westward to 10 inches, to 5 inches, then to a
trifling or unmeasurable amount representing the product of local
storms, perhaps separated by intervals of years, the average rain-
fall throughout Papagueria probably falling short of 5 inches.
Thus the greater part of the district is practically a desert,
although, as in most other American deserts, vegetal and animal
life maintains a feeble existence. The high Sierra is scantily
clothed with pines, and at lower levels gnarled, scrubby, and
thorny oaks and chaparral thickets occur sparingly. In the val-
by the tribe in their dealings with their neighbors, and so came into use among the
Spanish priests and settlers; and in time the Mexican users of the term lost the soft
finaland then emphasized the terminal vowel and, when they came to write it, strength-
ened the vowel sound still further by introducing the semi-silent but sub-guttural g of
the Andalusian. This orthography has been adopted by Americans and the pronuncia_
tion modified to fit, though the local Mexican pronunciation is hardly distinguishable
from that of the Indians themselves.
(NIVTd V WOWd DNISIN AYNVU TVOIdAL V dO SSANGADDON AHL DNIMOHS) TYNSUUd WOUd Naas ‘wvaad vuauTAdvorva
PAPAGUERIA 349
leys the deep-rooted mesquite dots the surface in similitude of
scattered and ill-kept orchards, or gathers with a dozen other
trees in scragey forests along permanent waterways, while mon-
strous bizarre cacti haunt the foothills and the lower slopes, and
scattered grass-blades faintly tinge the acres intervening between
cacti and mesquites. The plant forms abound in pulpy struc-
tures and impervious rinds for conserving moisture, even more
than in thorns and other protective devices; for in this hard
region the struggle for existence is not so much between organism
and organism as between organism and environment, and the
organisms persist less by the multiplication of progeny than by
the prolongation of individual life. Animal life, in insect, rep-
tile, bird, and mammal, occurs in much the same proportion to
vegetal life as in humid regions, but is more largely nocturnal
and crepuscular. Ants of many kinds (including the ingenious
and successful farmer ant), wasps, flies, and other insects follow
the sparse flora. Gaudy and swift efts, as well as somber and
sluggish lizards, accompany the insects, while ground-squirrels
and field-mice contribute a quota of vitality. In the more humid
valleys, and on the mountain sides moistened by drainage from
above, rabbits, quail, deer, and other herbivorous and graminiy-
orous things collect in limited numbers, while serpents find sub-
sistence in the more fertile spots ; and over the hills, valleys, and
plains on which lower life prevails the coyote on the land, and
hawks, owls, and eagles in the air, are not wanting (forit is only
in the western part of Papagueria, where the rainfall is trifling,
that life is unable to hold its own). Yet, as among plants, the
struggle of animal life against inorganic nature and alien organ-
isms is severe, and an exceptional number of the animate things
are armed with mandibles, stings, fangs, talons, poison glands,
and other protective devices. The distribution of life conforms
to the distribution of water; it is most abundant over the rugged
summits and rocky slopes of the high Sierra, as well as along the
eulches and gorges—barrancas of the local vernacular—of the
foot slopes and the broad sand washes or arroyas of the narrower
valleys; it is less abundant on the foothills and over the lower
ranges, where the storms are feebler and rarer; it is still more
meager over the broad intermontane valleys constituting the
ereater part of Papagueria; but it is only in the western portion
of the district, where clouds rarely gather and whither streams
never flow, that the shifting sands and black-burned scoriz of
dead volcanoes (the “mal-pais” of the Mexicans) are utterly
barren.
300 PAPAGUERIA
The distribution of water in Papagueria is correlated with the
configuration of the surface. As the vapor-charged air drifts up
the long slope to the base of the Sierra and up the steeper slope
toward the crest, a part of the vapor distills as dew or falls as
rain, while the lesser ranges lying athwart the long slope extract
apart of the boon; so there are storm-fed streams in all of the
higher mountains, rushing torrents in the lofty Sierra, slender
streams in the lower ranges, and a part of the flood soaks into
the thirsty soil to form ground water, which may reappear as
springs toward the mountain bases or in the narrow upland val-
leys. During the midsummer storms, and still more during those
of midwinter, the mountain-born floods stretch far into the
plains, cutting channels broad and deep as those of the Connect-
icut, Susquehanna, and Savannah, which for eight or ten or
eleven months of the year are naught but wastes of burning
sand. The typical drainage system of Papagueria during the
wet season is a long series of nearly parallel mountain torrents
flowing down the side of the range in deep gorges, Joining in part
in the foothills, and finally uniting in the adjacent plain as vast
sheetfloods, miles in width and inches in depth, flowing swiftly
and boldly adown or athwart the broad valleys toward the sea,
to finally gather in great rivers; yet throughout the whole dis-
trict these broad streams are quickly swallowed by the sands or
consumed by the blistering air, and from the Gila to the Yaki,
500 miles away, no river of Papagueria has reached the sea dur-
ing the memory of men. As the dry season approaches the rivers
are cut off in their lower reaches, mile by mile, and as they shrink
toward their sources the drainage systems contract and most
disappear, leaving a few slender streamlets in the deeper gorges
each heading in a spring or seepage basin and rippling feebly
over the sands a few rods or miles before fading in the sun ; and
so delicate is the adjustment of climate and earth-water that the
streams stretch by night and shrink by day, sometimes for miles.
A few streams heading in the high Sierra indeed flow for scores
of miles; but these have mainly been taken by other peoples
and hardly appertain to Papagueria. There are other streams
which, during the dry season, are practically subterranean, and
only to be found in storm-cut tinajas or reached by digging. And
all the way from the high Sierra toward the gulf, over the lessen-
ing mountains and toward the broadening plains, earth-water on
the surface or at depths grows scantier and scantier until it is
gone.
(aNoowpaH0E NI MOO GHHSINVA 40 ZNWAW) viugono dvd G0 HSVYMQGNYVS TYOIdAL V : OOUS O18
302 PAPAGUERIA
This characteristic waterflow has reacted on the topography
during the eons of geologic history, and has developed a config-
uration no less distinctive than the drainage systems. To the
traveler by rail along the northern border of Papagueria the
region seems one of remarkably rugose and irregular mountain
ranges, buttes, picachos, and precipice-walled mesas; for the
jagged mountains are always in sight and the clear air brings
them close to the eye. At first the traveler in the saddle sees
the region in similar leht, the exceeding ruggedness of the
mountains giving them undue prominence; but after spending
days in traversing the intermontane plains and hours in cross-
ing or circumscribing ranges and mesas for a month or two he
learns to see the land-forms in true proportion, and finds that
only a fifth or a tenth of the surface is mountain and four-fifths
or nine-tenths plain or valley so smooth as easily to be traversed
by pack-animals, and for the most part by wheels. So rugged
are the mountains and so smooth the plains that the region has
been likened by a careful observer to a series of great ranges
buried to theirears inalluvial deposits; yet more thoughtful study
shows that half the area of the plains is smoothly planed rock
similar to that of the mountains, the planing being the work of
the sheetfloods into which the freshet waters gather. In gen-
eral, the plains incline toward the great trough half filled with
the waters of the Californian gulf; and, on crossing the north-
westerly-southeasterly trending ranges toward the gulf, each in-
termontane plain is found to lie lower than the last, down to the
tide-swept shore. ‘This inclination is a part of that southwest-
ward tilting which accompanied the uplifting of the great plateau
region and the birth of the Colorado canyon. In arid Papa-
gueria, where the work of the feeble streams is long drawn out,
it has resulted in a regressive erosion, whereby the streams flow-
ing southward and westward have cut far into and often through
the ranges in which the waters gather, pushing the divides into
the plains beyond. The habitability of Papagueria is largely
due to this fact, for it is only in the narrow gorges cut into and
through the ranges by regressive stream-work that the scant
ground-water approaches the surface in springs or seepage from
the sand-washes.*
The Papago Indians, primitive and present holders of this dis-
trict, are preéminently children of the desert. So strongly ad-
*The topography and its development in this interesting region are set forth in
greater fullness in ‘‘Sheetflood Erosion”’ (Bull. Geol. Soc. Am., vol. 8, 1897, pp. 87-112)-
(NIVINOAOW dap9nd OL NIVTId HLOOWS WOU NOMLISNVUL LdAdav DNIMOHS) QOIVIIIA ONVdVd : ALOAOD
ok
Ree
Se gauge sk apis 9 Ee asters
dot PAPAGUERIA
verse are the physical conditions of life that the struggle for
existence among plants and animals is modified, all striving
against inorganic nature rather than against each other; and
this peculiar strife has led to a codperation among unrelated or-
ganisms so complete that the district is segregated into a series
of colonies in which grasses, trees, cacti, insects, reptiles, birds,
and mammals dwell together in harmony and mutual helpful-
ness. It is in part through this system of codperation or com-
munality that life is enabled to exist throughout the region.
Now just as the lower organisms have become fitted to an ad-
verse physical environment and adjusted to each other, so the
Papago Indian has, through the generations, developed fitness
to his desert habitat—he has joined the general system of com-
munality, and lives in harmony with the desert flora and the
desert fauna in a land so bitterly inhospitable that marauding
Apache, pastoral Mexican, and gold-seeking American commonly
pause on its borders. The Papago prefers to live where other
peoples famish; he is able to do so by reason of the remarkable
adjustment of his habits, his food and raiment, his industries,
his social organization, to a peculiar assemblage of conditions ;
and thereby the tribe acquires a peculiar interest.
Three and a half centuries ago Spanish explorers came in
contact with the Papago Indians, and over two centuries ago
established missions among them, especially in the eastern and ~
better-watered portion of their territory. With hardly an ex-
ception, the invaders found the tribesmen fearless and dignified,
yet kindly and hospitable; and this character has been main-
tained until the present time. The Papago chiefs met the Span-
iards as peers, and interchanged courtesies and commodities, yet
the exchange went on with a certain reserve. Through the ex-
change, the Papago acquired burros and horses, goats and kine,
sheep and dogs, as well as a number of garden and field plants
and a variety of agricultural arts. They also adopted gradually
the costume of civilization, and apparently by reason of certain
similarities (perhaps superficial) in the ceremonials, they viewed
favorably and in some measure adopted the imported doctrines.
They also adopted, albeit slowly and cautiously, the adobe ar-
chitecture, with the architectural type previously borrowed by
Spain from the desert borderland south of the Mediterranean.
In return, they gave the Spaniards temporary sustenance, and
were among those who enriched the civilized world by the gift
of corn and other indigenous plants, including the legume which
PAPAGUERIA 305
gave them name; and gradually a system of barter grew up
under,which the Spaniards acquired the means and arts of life
in a desert region, the Papago meantime forgetting their arts of
weaving, hand-culture of the soil, and other operations rendered
needless by their new acquisitions. Here the commerce ended ;
the Papago refused, save in exceptional cases, to attach them-
selves to the Spaniards’ households, refused to surrender their
tribal autonomy, refused to intermarry with the whites, refused
to countenance relations in which they would be subject to bond-
age or prevented from coming and going freely as the migratory
bird; and, save for a partial and rather superficial assimilation
of ceremonies and concepts, they clove unto and still retain their
primitive philosophy. —
Whether it be aseribed to peculiar environmental conditions
or not, the fact remains that the Papago tribe is characterized
by exceptional force and stability of character. For over three
centuries they have been known among white men (albeit a few
only) as peaceful yet brave, hospitable yet independent, amia-
ble yet dignified; and they have equally been noted as indus-
trious and virtuous. When attacked, or in reprisal, they have
always gone forth to meet the Apache, even in greatly superior
numbers, and have protected their fatherland against all ma-
rauders. ‘They scorned control by alien races, and are today
known in Mexico for their constant and consistent avoidance of
peonage, under which neighboring tribes were ground. They
have engaged in mining in ‘desultory fashion at various times,
but have never been coaxed or coerced by alien capital; and
almost without exception, they have maintained the purity of
their blood, despite the pressure of frontier life and conditions.
Neighboring peoples, including most of the kin-tribes, have been
assimilated or modified; but the greater proportion of these
people of the desert are still known as “ wild Papago ” or ‘“‘ roam-
ing Papago,” and their habits and modes of thought are little
changed since the white man came.”
While the Papago Indians have been notably stable during
three centuries of contact with alien races, there is‘reason for con-
sidering them descendants from a people of superior aboriginal
culture. Throughout much of Papagueria, especially in Mexico,
there are abundant relics of a prehistoric population and agri-
culture. The ruins, like the first settlements, are found in the
moister localities, in the foothill gorges and in the broader val-
leys, their distribution indicating that the prehistoric people
356 | PAPAGUERIA
pushed further into the valleys than the historical population.
The prehistoric relics comprise ruined houses and villages,
weathered to inconspicuous mounds, but known from occasional
foundation remnants to have been constructed, at least in part,
of a mixture of adobe and coarse pebbles; abundant fragments
of pottery, finer in texture and decoration than that now made
by the Papago; extensive acequias and other irrigation works ;
small corrals or stock yards containing reservoirs; dominating
structures in each considerable village, in the ruins of which the
finest pottery is found ; and well shaped and polished stone axes,
pestles, mortars, etc. Comparison of these vestiges with the
works of the modern Indians indicates that the prehistoric pop-
ulation was the more advanced in industries and much the larger
in numbers. The ancient agriculture, particularly, occupied a
higher plane than that of the present ; for the prehistoric farmers
constrained and restrained the running waters to the needs of
their kind, while the modern Indians chase and seek the waters
just as they chase game and seek wild fruits. By reason of the
control of the waters the fruitfulness of the valleys was undoubt-
edly multiplied, and large tracts of the desert must have blos-
somed and borne fruit at the behest and for the benefit of the
primitive husbandmen. The ancient acequias were much larger
than the modern ditches—e. g., in Arivaca valley, in southern
Arizona, the main prehistoric acequia was raised so as to flood the
entire bottomland, was lined almost continuously with houses,
and was 150 feet wide, while its modern representative, intro-
duced by Caucasian skill, is a simple ditch excavated below the
surface and 8 or 10 feet wide. The ancient villages are much
more numerous and extensive than the modern Indian, Mex-
ican, and American villages combined. The great number of
habitations might be ascribed to successive occupation and aban-
donment were it not for the testimony of the irrigation works ;
for the old ditches were not only more extensive, but were car-
ried further up the sides of the valleys in such manner as to
permit the synchronous cultivation of larger areas than are now
cultivated, and in a manner, moreover, which would have been
extravagant and useless unless a large population in each valley
was dependent thereon. The dominant structures in each vil-
lage suggest a cult and social organization somewhat different
from that of the modern Piman tribes, whose villages are with-
out council-houses or temples, the ancient structures correspond-
ing in some measure with the ‘“‘ casas grandes” found in Arizona,
PAPAGUERIA BYE
Chihuahua, and elsewhere, and with the ceremonial places of
the pueblos. In central and southern Papagueria “ trincheras,”’
or entrenched mountains, are occasionally found in and along-
side the better watered valleys in the vicinity of ruined villages.
These works are more or less inaccessible buttes or mesas, whose
precipices and slopes are extended and reinforced by artificial
walls of loose-laid stones, while on the easier slopes the walls are
multiplied and bastioned in such manner as to convert the emi-
nences, when protected by a limited force, into impregnable
fortresses. Some of these places of refuge are without traces of
permanent habitations or storehouses, and also (what is still
more significant in this arid region) without sources of or reser-
voirs for water, so that they could have been occupied only
temporarily or interruptedly ; while elsewhere (e. g., the great
fortified buttes near San Rafael de Alamito, in Altar valley)
there are remains of permanent domiciles. In brief, the arche-
ology of Papagueria indicates that during prehistoric times the
foothills and valleys had a considerable agricultural population,
supported by means of a highly developed system of irrigation ;
that this population was peaceful and highly organized socially ;
and that, through the development or invasion of predatory
enemies, the peaceful people were driven to seek refuge, and later,
as the irrigation works were destroyed, were either annihilated
or driven into the desert to enter into enforced communality with
the meager flora and fauna and find protection in the bitter
inhospitality by which all human enemies were held at bay.
There is accordingly a strong probability that the modern Papago
Indians are descended from the more cultured inhabitants of
this purview of the land of the Montezumas.
The modern Papago is of medium or slightly below medium
stature, the women being apparently relatively larger than the
men. There is a tendency toward heaviness of feature, partic-
ularly among the more sedentary groups toward Gila river ;
with this exception, the features are more delicately moulded
and the expression more vivacious than among neighboring
tribes. The men cut the hair, rarely about the neck, commonly
shingled more or less closely ; the women allow the hair to grow
long, and frequently braid it or arrange it in pendent tresses.
The color of the skin is somewhat variable, but of the usual
coppery cast. Among the adults, and more rarely among the
children, a blotched appearance is not uncommon, and many
,
358 PAPAGUERIA
faces are pitted by smallpox. Usually the body and extremities
are rather slender, but lithe and vigorous.
Of late the men are addicted to intemperance in smoking and
drinking; most of them smoke cigarettes whenever they can be
obtained, and nearly all drink mescal (an alcoholic liquor dis-
tilled from the mescal or agave plant) inordinately whenever
opportunity offers—e. g., during a stay of three days at Poso
Verde. near the international boundary in Sonora, only two men
were found not continuously intoxicated. It seems certain that
the natural features and probable that the stature and other
physical characters of the men have been injured by this exces-
sive use of narcotics and stimulants. The women are largely
free from these vices.
Among both sexes the dignified hospitality and reserve noted
by the Spaniards three centuries ago persist. Papago etiquette
demands an interval of affected unconsciousness of the presence
ofa visitor, whether from neighboring village or strange lands; so
the visitor enters the village and rides to the very threshold of a
leading tribesman without receiving other attention than furtive
glances from the children; he dismounts in the shade of the
vah’-toh (which takes the place of the porch or balcony of civili-
zation), and rolls his cigarette nonchalantly as in the desert. In
the course of five or ten minutes the head of the house for the
time, be it man, matron, or maid, addresses a casual remark to
him. At first the conversation is fitful, but gradually the inter-
vals of silence shorten, the host or hostess turns attention from
the occupation of hands or eyes toward the visitor, and cordial
relations are established. If the visitor is an old friend, the in-
terval of ceremonious silence is shortened and is sometimes termi-
nated by friendly greetings, though commonly these are reserved
for the parting; if a white man of distinguished bearing, a seat
is placed, or a mat spread, for his use soon after his presence is
recognized, and a melon or some other article of food, or a bowl
of water, is placed within his reach. The visitor may then ex-
tend a general invitation to the household or village to eat with
him in his camp, and may rest assured that, howsoever slender
his larder, there will not be too many guests, and will find, more-
over, that even after they present themselves at the camp, each
guest must be personally invited once, twice, or three times (the
custom varying in different villages) before he will be seated.
White visitors having no appearance of distinction are treated
with less consideration, and are usually expected to help them-
PAPAGUERIA 359
THE CHIEF’S HOUSE, FRESNAL (ACCULTURAL STRUCTURE OF ADOBE, WITH VAH/-TOH ON THE RIGHT)
selves to water or food, while the Indians are correspondingly
unceremonious in the visitors’ camp, though almost without ex-
ception the courtesy of the Indian exceeds that of his visitor.
Throughout the tribe the man is the hunter, the herder, and
the chief laborer in the field ;- the woman is the potter, the water-
bearer, and the collector of easily accessible wild food supplies.
The children are vivacious and happy, the boys playing with
the riata or lasso, with which they make miserable the lives of
burros, calves, and dogs, or with the bow and arrow, while the
girls play at household operations or troop away after mesquite
beans and prickly pears. Many of the men are expert riders
and ropers, quickly subduing the most vicious buckers among
their bronchos, and almost invariably looping their riatas about
the horns, neck, fore foot, or hind foot of stock, at will, at the
first throw.
Living a hard life as they do, the Papago Indians are subject
to a variety of accidents. Until within a generation they were
almost constantly engaged in defensive warfare against the
Apache, and nearly every village still has its battle-scarred vet-
erans; vicious bronchos and crabbed bulls score a victim now
and then; drunken brawls frequently have fatal endings; often
360 . PAPAGUERIA
the only water obtainable for weeks and months is a reeking
spume of organic poison; above any and even all of these is the
ever-present danger of the drying up of the spring, the tinaja, or
the rivulet on which the villages or travelers depend, and the
quickly consequent delirium, ending in the most terrible of
deaths. Yet despite all their hardships and dangers, the Papago
appears to live long; few invalids are seen, old men who clearly
remember the events of 50 or 60 years past are found in nearly
every village, and withered crones, shrunken to living skeletons,
yet able to perform the most arduous of domestic duties, are
surprisingly numerous. While statistics are lacking, there is
reason for supposing that the average expectation of life in the
desert is greater than in more favored lands.
A considerable agricultural reservation has been assigned to
the Papago Indians, including the old Spanish mission of San Xa-
vier, in Pima county, nine miles south of Tucson, Arizona. This
reservation is on the northeastern margin of Papagueria. About
a hundred families are collected on the reservation, where they
are judiciously controlled by a sub-agent of the Indian Bureau.
The reservation Indians are supplied with vehicles and agricul-
tural implements, and occupy themselves in the planting and
harvesting of corn, small grains, beans, melons, squashes, etc., for
home consumption and for the Tucson market; the women manu-
facture pottery in considerable quantities for the market, as well
as for domestic use. Most Indians on the reservation continue
to occupy primitive houses, and the culinary and other domestic
operations are preéminently primitive; but their habits and
modes of thought are so far changed that they are regarded as
alien or semi-alien by the great majority of the tribe. Thesouth-
ern portion of Papagueria is somewhat more diversified as to sur-
face than the main body of the district, and is somewhat better
supplied with water; accordingly the Yaki and other tribes, as
well as Mexican stockmen and farmers, and Mexican or foreign
miners have pushed into the region; and thus the primitive
holders of the land have been in large part displaced and remain
only in scattered rancherias or villages, sometimes adjoining
Mexican towns, sometimes isolated. In general the permanent
part of the Papago population in Mexico may be considered sta-
tionary ; and the families have acquired Mexican customs and
are affiliated commercially, though seldom in blood, with their
neighbors. Perhaps a fifth or a quarter of the Papago Indians
are either located on, or in some way tributary to, the reserva-
PAPAGUERIA 361
tion of San Xavier; about another quarter are on, or south of,
Rio Altar or its tributaries in Mexico; the remainder or fully
one-half of the tribe are roamers of the desert, living in a pecu-
lar manner which is neither exactly nomadic nor exactly agri-
cultural, but a unique combination of these modes of life. Itis
this half of the tribe—the “wild Papago ”—that is of especial
interest to the ethnologist.
During a considerable part of the year the “ wild”? Papago oc-
cupy rancherias or nominally permanent home villages; tribu-
tary to each rancheria there are usually several (sometimes but
one or two) temporales, or temporary farm domiciles ; and many
of the families or family groups have winter domiciles, either
for hunting or for pottery-making, in the mountains or settled
valleys of Mexico.
So far as the meager water supply of Papagueria permits, the
household gods are enshrined about permanent springs; but,
since the family groups many times outnumber the continu-
ously flowing springs, rancherias are frequently established
about temporary springs, born of an exceptional succession of
storms, or even about water pockets in the bottoms of barrancas,
or ponds produced by single storms. Some villages in the east-
ern part of Papagueria’were formerly located on fairly perma-
nent, though slender, streams heading in the Sierra, but these
sites have generally been taken by Mexican and American in-
vaders. The rancheria includes a separate dwelling for each
family, with one or more stock corrals, and, if the soil is fit, a
few truck gardens adjacent to the houses of the more enterpris-
ing families. The dwellings are scattered ; commonly each is
several rods from the nearest neighboring domicile, and thus a
village of fifty or more houses frequently extends over the
greater part of a quarter-section of land. The dwelling com-
prises an enclosed house, with usually an adjacent shelter and
a cooking circle a few yards distant. The typical house consists
of a dome-shape framework of mesquite saplings, thatched with
sacaton or other coarse grass, or sometimes with leafy shrubs or
bushes, or even with cornstalks, the thatch being sewn to the
framework with slips of yucca stipes. Such a house is circular
or elliptical in plan, 12 to 18 or 20 feet across and 5 to 8 feet
high; the roof portion is often flattened and covered with a
layer of earth two or three inches in thickness. ‘The doorway is
a simple opening two feet or less in width and usually little
more in height; sometimes a door made of sacaton lashed to
25
ASNOH ONVdVd TVOIGAL
PAPAGUERIA 263
light sticks is used, but ordinarily the aperture remains open.
There are no smoke-holes or window openings, and the interiors
are begrimed and sooty. Sometimes the framework is made of
mesquite posts and stringers, in which case the roof is commonly
more flattened, more deeply covered with earth, and, to support
the weight, the framework is reinforced by poles, which may be
either ribs of the sahuaro (Cereus giganteus) or branches of the
okatilla (Fouquiera splendens). - Frequently the house is pro-
tected from the ravages of cattle and horses by an armature of
thorny okatilla stems erected about it and attached by withes
or yucca lashings. Sometimes the houses are rectangular, this
form being probably accultural. The rectangular houses may
be of adobe (sun-dried bricks), cajon (adobe mud, either mixed
with stones or not, molded directly into walls), stone plastered
with adobe mud, sacaton grass, okatilla stems and sahuaro ribs,
or combinations of these. The adobe construction is undoubtedly
derived from Mexican neighbors and has not been long in use;
the adobe or adobe and stone structures are flat-roofed like the
ordinary Mexican houses, covered with earth, and sometimes
provided with rainspouts; such houses usually have smoke-
holes, and in some of the eastern and southern villages they
have rude chimneys with chimney-pots (ollas with broken bot-
toms). The doorway of the accultural house is usually five or
six feet high, something over two feet in average width, but con-
siderably wider at bottom than at top,and commonly extending
not quite to the ground; doors are unusual, save in the more
acculturized villages, when they are either carpenter-made or
composed of okatilla stems lashed together. The simpler rect-
angular houses grade in structure, material, and appurtenances
into the primitive, dome-shape type. The adjacent shelter
(vah’-toh) appears to be an innovation derived from Spanish.
contact ; it consists of four, nine, or more crotched posts of mes-
quite, set in a rectangle and carrying stringers of mesquite or
paloverde and cross-sticks of okatilla or sahuaro, sometimes
thatched carelessly with sacaton, more frequently covered with
leafy shrubbery, coarse sticks, etc, or with hides, bits of canvas,
blankets, etc. The cooking circle or roofless house is primitive ;
it consists of a series of mesquite posts, four or five feet high, set
in a circle four to six yards in diameter, connected save at one
point (which serves as a doorway) by two or three horizontal
binders, usually of mesquite sapling, to which a layer of sacaton
grass is lashed. During fair weather—and nearly all days are.
364 PAPAGUERIA
fair in Papagueria—culinary operations are performed in this
airy structure; it is only during stormy weather that fires are
built in the houses. Toward midday men, women, and children
take refuge from the burning desert sun, whose rays are intense
beyond imagining in humid lands, under the vah’-toh or in the
house. At night the men usually sleep either out in the open
or under the shelter, the women and children more commonly
in the houses. It is to be remembered that the Papago house
is primarily a place for storing properties and taking refuge
from the sun, and only subordinately a protection from storm
and cloud. ;
The corral is an accultural feature introduced with horses and
cattle from Spain. Usually it is a double stockade of gnarled
mesquite logs, filled in between with trunks and branches of mes-
quite and paloverde, sahuaro ribs, and okatilla stems, the whole
lashed firmly with rawhide. Sometimes the wall is partly or
wholly of stone, in the form of rubble laid loose. The corral is
communal; it is the property of the village, though sometimes
it is controlled by the chief or two or three head men, who permit
their less energetic neighbors to make use of it. It is usually
open, when horses and cattle are merely headed into it in order
that they may be lassoed more readily than outside. When
closed it is with a barrier of great logs, usually of pine brought
down from the mountains, for nothing lighter will withstand a
stampede of the half-wild stock.
The spring is usually protected by a corral, with a partition
of stockade which prevents the cattle from miring in the deeper
part of the pool. As the waters dwindle in the dry season or
with a succession of dry years, the spring is gradually deepened
and sometimes converted into a well from which the water is
drawn, after the Mexican fashion, in bags, which may be made
of the skins of oxen, with the aid of horses. A heavy rawhide
riata attached to the bag passes over a cross-beam (rarely sup-
plied with a pulley), and is given a twist or two about the pom-
mel of the saddle by a horseman ; or, if he rides the typical straw
saddle of the Papago, the riata is passed about the breast of the
animal and brought up over the withers, to be firmly grasped
in the right hand. The spring corral is usually kept up. It is
repaired and protected by cacti, poles, stones, and any other
material ; perhaps the most effective of all being the carcasses of
bulls slain in the terrific battles at the water side, which become
desiccated and mummified in the dry air into tenacious masses
PAPAGUERTIA 365
of rawhide and bone, far stronger than wood; and no carcass is
allowed to go to waste when the corral needs repair.
No council-houses or other public, ceremonial, or dominant
structures are found in any of the villages, though there are
sacred places near most of them, and sites of the events in their
Book of Genesis in several places. The devotional instinct finds
relief chiefly in pilgrimages to the sea and in a curious sea-cult
half concealed under common-place phrases.
At the center of the typical grass house there is a fireplace,
consisting of nothing save the ash-covered spot reserved for the
purpose, with the three loose cobble-stones required to support
the olla when placed on the fire ; sometimes consisting of an
annulus or circular wall of adobe mixed with ashes, 15 to 18
inches in diameter, and 6 to 10 inches high, open to the ground
on one side. The metate—a slab of granular or vesicular stone
commonly a little over a foot in width and perhaps two feet in
length, bolstered up on cobble-stones or blocks of wood—and a
erinding stone or two belong hard by the fireplace. About the
walls of the house lie two or three beds consisting of agave-stipe
mats, while between the beds are piled grain-filled or empty
ollas, squashes, melons, and corn, with saddles, riatas, stray arti-
cles of apparel, and other domestic impedimenta, in such pro-
fusion as the season and family thrift permit. The cooking circle
is like the enclosed house in respect to fireplace and culinary
appurtenances, but the stores and other valuable property are
kept in the house proper. When there is no cooking circle—and
many, indeed most, houses in the large villages are without this
' feature—there is frequently a fireplace in the vah’-toh, and there
the metate, the essential family nucleus, issetup. Hour by hour
the housewife, kneeling at the upper end of this primitive nether
millstone, drives the grinder back and forth with a persistent
energy that the athlete might envy, producing meal or pinole at
a hardly perceptible rate; the children cluster about within easy
reach of admonition; unless otherwise occupied, the men recline
near by, rolling and smoking cigarettes, and, between smokes,
taking pinches of the toothsome pinole; the dogs lie near as occa-
sional cuffs and objurgations aliow, in enjoyment of the aroma
and in the hope of a furtive taste now and then; and at irregular
intervals, determined by the state of appetite or the quantity of
meal, the daughter or daughter-in-law mixes a batch of dough,
places a plate of tin or thin iron over the fireplace or olla stone,
and with marvelous deftness molds, stretches, and bakes the
GOVITIA ONVdVd :ACUAA OSOd
PAPAGUERIA 367
dough into nutritious and wholesome tortillas—the staff of life
of Mexican and Indianalike. Within the shelter stands a three-
branched post of mesquite supporting a large olla of porous ware
filled with water, deliciously cooled by the slow exudation and
evaporation in the dry air. This family olla is kept filled by the
women, generally the younger of the household, though some-
times by crones, who, at eventide or at other times if need be,
go forth in trains to the spring or water hole, returning with huge
jars balanced, not on the shoulder, as in Babylon of old and in
eastern Mexico today, but on’the head. In this way the water
required for all domestic purposes, save the laundry, is trans-
ported to the houses. When garments require washing—and the
Papago are a cleanly folk—they are taken to the waterside and
rubbed with the hands and beaten with cobbles on a large stone.
while the saponaceous lather of the soap agave is apphed, and
water is sprinkled or poured over them.
The temporale is much like the permanent domicile of the
more primitive type, save that itis usually smaller in size, lighter
in framework, and even more ephemeral in character; while
around it or near by the narrow fields whose few acres are all
but lost in the vast extent of the intermontane valleys. Some-
times the fields are open, when the watchers rely on their own
vigilance for the protection of the growing crops; usually they
are enclosed by flimsy fences of mesquite and cactus. There
may be but asingle field ina temporale, and that may be cropped
but a single season, though usually there are half a dozen or more
fields in a locality, and these may be used during several succes-
sive seasons; but the Papago husbandman is constrained by an
intuitive geometry, and usually saves fencing by making his
field elliptical or circular rather than rectangular ; and in most vil-
lages line fencesareunknown. Thelocation of the temporale, like
that of all other things human in the desert, is determined pri-
marily by the occurrence of water, secondarily by character of
soil. A favorite situation is the seaward terminus of the arroya
on whose middle reach the rancheria is located ; thither flows the
unevaporated residue of the winter storm floods, soaking the soil
and fertilizing it with a veneer of fine mud, just as the valley of
the Nile is fertilized by the Nilotic flood; and even if the storm
freshet fails on the surface its waters permeate the subsurface
sands within reach of the roots. Sometimes the temporale is
located where a single great deluge, the product of a single storm,
soaks the soil and vivifies the plants into a short-lived oasis ;
368 PAPAGUERIA
sometimes the hut of the temporale is pitched and its field laid
out alongside a temporary water hole, cut out by a single storm
or during one wet season, far out on the plain. When the tempo-
rale is by a valley water hole, the husbandmen share the pre-
cious liquid with their herds of stock, that daily trample through
it and fight to the death on its brink, and with the myriads of
insects, great and small, that swarm about and within the water
to revel in its liquidity or consume its filth, while the pool seethes
in the sun and festers and putrifies into foul-odored mud. When
the subsurface sands are water-bearing, sometimes wells are sunk ;
and again the temporales are without water save as it is carried
perhaps for a dozen or score of miles in ollas swung over the
backs of burros or carried on the heads of withered crones.
Usually the temporale of each family is occupied only by a
young or middle-aged couple, sometimes by a sire and two or
three boys, again by most ofthe family. While the women grind
meal on the metate or scour the valley for fruits and material for
baskets, the men plow or fence their field and plant their seeds
and harvest their crops in season, the produce, except such as
is consumed on the ground, being transported to the rancherias.
But the season is a variable one; the season for planting is the
time of storm or freshet, come when it may; and the season of
harvest is the time of maturing or ripening of the produce, be it
May or September, for advantage is taken of the summer freshet
as wellas of the winter one. If the temporale is used but a sea-
son or two, the domicile may be little more than a bower of mes-
quite bushes; and when the temporale is long and numerously
occupied and the fields are grown to 5 or 10 acres in extent, such
bowers are occasionally erected here and there in the fields or
about the fences, in order that the watchers may find shelter, or
the harvesters may repose in their shadow. In some cases the
rancherias and the temporales approach and even merge; and
some groups have no temporales or other fields except the mea-
ger patches scattered about the rancheria, while other groups
have fresh temporales and no permanent rancherias, their win-
ters and autumns being spent in Mexico or in neighboring ran-
cherias among which the individuals scatter when not engaged
in agriculture.
Somewhere in the vicinity of nearly every town and village in
northern Sonora, and of many of those in the central and southern
part of the state, there is a Papago pueblo which is commonly
occupied during the winter and abandoned or left in charge of one
POTTERY-MAKERS AT WORK IN TYPICAL BOWER
370 PAPAGUERIA
or a few families in summer. Then as the migratory birds fly
southward, the Papago clans of Arizona drift after them in irregu-
lar fashion; the pueblos are gradually filled, chiefly by families in
which there are many women. Other families migrate in similar
fashion, save that, instead of locating in the pueblos, they scatter
through the mountains to hunt deerand othergame. The hunter
is usually accompanied by his wife, and perhaps by children,
and sometimes several hunters codperate; their method is to
build temporary lodges, usually of the boughs of trees, related in
form to the typical domiciles of grass, though frequently the
trunks and low-hanging branches of mesquite or oak trees take
the place of part of the ordinary framework, and the hunters
normally wander but a little way from their lodges, preferring to
await the coming of game rather than to seek it afar. Much of
the small game is consumed by the hunter and his family, but
deer and some smaller animals are taken down the mountain
sides to the Mexican towns and sold or bartered. Meantime the
Papago women in the pueblos dig clay and make pottery, which
they also sell or barter to the Mexicans. Thus many Mexican
villages are supplied with venison and ollas at small cost, while
the temporarily immigrant Papago obtain money and goods,
albeit in small quantities, and develop a simple commerce. At
the same time they acquire something of the Mexican culture,
habits of life, fashion of dress, language, and religion. The
pueblo house is usually of adobe, and in no way different from
that of the neighboring Mexican family. The metate is usually
obtained by barter, and is frequently a shop-made article like
that of the more pretentious Mexicans; the skirts and rebosas
of the women are in no way distinguishable from those of the
sefioras and sefioritas, and the women and some of the men attend
the church fiestas and avail themselves of the opportunities for
confession and baptism and even formal marriage, while the men
outherod their Mexican mates in mescal drinking. It is largely
through this winter association of the Papago with the Mexicans
during many generations that the desert tribe has been accul-
turized and in part Mexicanized ; and it is partly by reason of
this prior association and alien acculturation that it is so difficult
for the Papago to affiliate with the American pioneers and in-
stitutions.
So the life of the Papago is a round of migrations and wander-
ings, largely in search of the means of subsistence, of which the
first and the second and the third are water, water, WATER—water
GOMEZ AND THE NEW YORK GULF 371
to alleviate his own thirst in the sun-parched deserts, water to
sustain his horses and burros and kine, water to vivify the plants
of which man and his creatures eat. While the late winter rains
are bringing verdure to the mountains and sending slender
streamlets into the arid valleys, the tribesmen gradually return
to their rancherias, remove the barriers of stones and sticks from
their doorways, and await the fit moistening of the soil at the
temporales. At the proper day-they go forth to plow and plant,
and watch the rapid maturing of the crops. With the harvest
time the temporale is normally abandoned and the produce
transported to the rancheria. At about the same time the fruits
of the sahuaro and other cacti ripen, and soon afterward the beans
of the mesquite mature, and these uncultivated crops are in like
manner gathered and stored. Then follows a season of idleness
and feasting, interrupted by primitive ceremonial and attend-
ance on Mexican fiestas, perhaps scores or hundreds of miles
away; and as autumn advances, the homes are again deserted
by a part of their inhabitants, who wander to other rancherias
to participate in the votive festivities or set out on the annual
migration southward.
GOMEZ AND THE NEW YORK GULF
Some interesting conclusions in regard to early American dis-
covery seem to result from the study of an old Spanish map pub-
lished by Mr Harrisse in his’ “ Discovery of North America,” p.
241. Writers on early cartography have identified the Rio de
San Antonio of early maps with the Hudson river and found evi-
dence thereby that the Spanish were familiar with that stream
long before Hudson himself came in 1609. The evidence of Mr
Harrisse’s map tends to disprove this claim. The map was made
to accompany the “ Islario Generall,” written by Alonzo de Santa
Cruz in 1560, and Mr Harrisse gives the opinion that it is based
upon the lost Chaves map of 1536.
Whatever knowledge of the North Atlantic coast from Chesa-
peake bay to the Penobscot the Spaniards may have had in 1536
depended, so far as we know, on the explorations of Gomez in
1525. His exploration had been an official one, resulting, pre-
sumably, in fairly accurate data, which would naturally have
been used for the official Chaves map seen and described by
Oviedo in 1527, but now lost. Efforts to trace Oviedo’s descrip-
372 GOMEZ AND THE NEW YORK GULF
tion in the unofficial Ribero-type maps of 1527-’29 have been
unsatisfactory. So also have been the efforts to find correspond-
ence between the Ribero-type contours and the real American
coast-line. The significance of the Santa Cruz map, therefore,
hes in this—that it alone among early maps corresponds to
Oviedo’s description of the Chaves map and should indicate the
exact extent of Gomez’ discoveries by an actual resemblance to
the American coast.
In a single feature does the Santa Cruz map seriously depart
from Oviedo’s data. Its latitudes are all marked one degree
farther north than Oviedo gives them. But this question of
latitude brings out another curious point. The Santa Cruz map
purports to represent the American coast from 38° to 45°, yet it
obviously does not represent the coast-line of that space, while
it does resemble quite well the coast of New England from Nan-
tucket to the Penobscot. This discrepancy of latitude may be
set aside for the moment. The real test of the map is its resem-
blance to the New England coast. Beginning at the north, the
islands of the Maine coast are shown and the legend “montanas”
is placed just where Kohl says that mariners can see the distant
peaks of the White mountains. Turning then southwest and
south, the coast makes a deep indentation suggestive of Massa-
chusetts bay, turns sharply to a north-pointing cape like Cape
Cod, and then southward again as if to the point of Nantucket,
where it makes a sharp turn to the westward before merging in
the land discovered by Ayllon. In its relative proportions the
Santa Cruz map corresponds with the New England coast, except
in an unusual lateral extension of the Maine coast. The map
is one such as would be expected from a sixteenth century offi-
cial explorer—not true in all details, but fairly accurate in
general features.
Under this interpretation of the map the Rio de las Gamas of
Gomez becomes the Penobscot, Cabo de Santiago becomes Cape
Cod, Cabo de las Arenas becomes the Point of Nantucket, and
the Rio de San Antonio becomes, not the Hudson, but the Mer-
rimac or Salmon Falls. It is interesting to note how the inac-
curacy of the Ribero-type maps has transferred the east-pointing
Cabo de las Arenas of Gomez to the place of the north-pointing
Cabo de Santiago. That the island of Nantucket is made one
with the mainland is natural, since Gomez, aware of the shoals
and shallows of that region, would hardly have tempted fate by
running close to shore, but, passing to the southward, might have
remained unaware of the passage between it and the main.
WELLMAN POLAR EXPEDITION 373
If, then, the Santa Cruz map from Cabo de las Arenas north-
ward represents New England, where shall we look for the Gulf
of New York? Ayllon is not supposed to have explored north
of the latitudes of Virginia. If Gomez explored the Gulf the
map constructed from his data should show it, but from Cabo
de St Juhan, Ayllon’s northernmost discovery, the coast extends
north-north-east 30 leagues to Cabo de las Arenas without a hint
of the peculiar coast features so carefuily noticed north of Arenas.
The inference seems unavoidable that Gomez merely rounded
Nantucket and then turned homeward; otherwise he would
hardly have failed to note some of the peculiar features of the
coast west of Nantucket.
While the New York gulf thus seems unknown to the Spanish
cartographers who depended on Gomez’ data, the Spanish maps,
nevertheless, confess no gap.whatever in Spanish knowledge of
the coast. It is a curious and perhaps unique feature in early
cartography that seems to find its best explanation in Spanish
desire to leave no flaw in a claim of possession of the entire coast
by right of discovery. Certainly Gomez would hardly have erred
so much in the taking of latitudes, nor does there seem reason
for deception on his part of the home government. The curious
point is the conscientious way in which the introduction of false
coast-line was avoided by the falsification of latitudes.
ED SCIsco:
University of Michigan.
WELLMAN POLAR EXPEDITION
Owing doubtless, in large measure, to the ambition of Arctic
explorers to traverse the unknown regions about the North Pole
before the close of the present century, there is an activity in
polar exploration that is altogether unprecedented. With one
of the expeditions from the United States—that in charge of Mr
Walter Wellman—the National Geographic Society was recently
asked to codperate (1) by a formal approval of the aims and
purposes of the expedition, (2) by the appointment of a com-
mittee to advise with the leader as to the scientific work to be
undertaken, and (3) by the contribution of a sum of money in
aid of the expedition, with the condition that, in the event of the
expedition being successful, the amount so contributed should
be refunded. After full consideration the Board of Managers
374 WELLMAN POLAR EXPEDITION
decided to codperate, in some measure, with this expedition, and
a committee, consisting of President Alexander Graham Bell,
Gen. A. W. Greely, U.S. A., Prof. G. K. Gilbert, Dr C. Hart Mer-
riam, Commodore George W. Melville, U.S. N., and Prof. Simon
Newcomb, was appointed to advise Mr Wellman concerning the
scientific work to be undertaken. This committee drafted a
statement indorsing the aims and purposes of the expedition,
and suggested the addition to the exploring party of three scien-
tific observers, a suggestion that was promptly acted upon.
The Board has also undertaken to make a financial contribu-
tion to the expedition, with the understanding that in the event
of the amount so contributed being refunded it shall be applied
to a permanent fund for research. Subscriptions to the amount
of one thousand dollars have been received from members of the
Board of Managers and of the Society in general, and have been
applied to the purposes of the expedition. Further contribu-
tions, from one dollar upward, may be sent to the Treasurer, .
Mr Henry Gannett, U. S. Geological Survey.
Mr Wellman and his party sailed from Tromso on Sunday,
June 26,in the 8. 8. Frithyof. Four days later, when in the
White Sea, Mr Wellman wrote President Bell a letter, of which
the following is an abstract:
‘““We expect to be at Archangel, where eighty dogs are waiting for
us, on Saturday. The Frithyof is a good steamer, very strong and well
equipped. In only one particular is she a disappointment—she does not
steam as many knots an hour as had been represented to us. Still she is
fast enough for the work. The reports from the ice are that it is a very
unfavorable vear, but my experience is that such reports do not count for
much. A day or two of different wind may change conditions radically.
In less than ten days we expect to be at the ice to see for ourselves.
‘“The only financial affair now worrying me is that we have not the
funds for a steamer to come after us next year. In all probability it will
not be necessary to hire a steamer specially, as there will be other ships
going to Franz Josef Land. This matter is left in the hands of Consul
Andrew Aagaard, of Tromsd, Norway, a most estimable gentleman. I
have asked him to communicate with my friends in America in good
season; and while I have not the slightest idea it will be necessary to hire
a ship, if it should be I hope my friends will stand by us. Even if a
sbip is needed, it will not be very costly, as it may start later in the year
than we are going.
‘“Our party consists of nine—four Americans and five Norwegians.
Prof. Gore does not go to Franz Josef Land with us. Instead he goes to
Spitzbergen. He was afraid he might be too long delayed in getting back
from the former region. Iam pleased with all the men, and we shall do
our best to give you good news from us next year.”
THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY 375
The latest advices are that on July 11, when in latitude 77° N.
and 170 miles south of Franz Josef Land, the Frithyof found
heavy pack-ice barring the way. She afterward proceeded west-
ward to Prince Charles Land, to the east of Spitzbergen.
PROCEEDINGS OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
SOCIETY, SESSION 1897-98
Special Meeting, February 28, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the
chair. Mr Bailey Willis gave an illustrated lecture on the Appalachian
Region, describing the influence of the topography upon the migrations
into and through the great valley of Virginia.
Special Meeting, March 4, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Mrs J. Howard Gore gave an illustrated lecture on Picturesque Sweden.
Special Meeting, March 7, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Rev. Randolph H. McKim, D. D., gave an illustrated lecture on Tide-
water Virginia in the Olden Time.
Regular Meeting, March 11, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Mr F. V. Coville gave an illustrated lecture on The Cascade Mountains of
Oregon.
Special Meeting, March 14, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Mr Edward Eggleston delivered an address on The Development of the
Early Colonies and the Influence of Geographic Environment upon the
Character of the Population and their Industries.
Annual Reception, March 16, 1898.—The Annual Reception of the Society
was held in the new building of the Corcoran Gallery of Art, from 8 to
10 o’clock p. m. President A. Graham Bell, with the ladies of the Re-
ception Committee, received the members and guests of the Society, to
the number of 700. 5;
Special Meeting, March 18, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Capt. Z. L. Tanner, U.S. N., gave an illustrated lecture on Bering Sea
and the Explorations made during the Voyage of the Steamer Albatross.
Special Meeting, March 21, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Hon. John R. Procter, President of the Civil Service Commission, gave
an illustrated lecture on The Blue Grass Country of Kentucky.
Regular Meeting, March 25, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Col. F. F. Hilder delivered an illustrated lecture on The Afghan Frontier
and the Punjab, after which Mr Hira Singh Puri made an address on the
Sikh people.
Special Meeting, March 28, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Judge R. S. Taylor, of Fort Wayne, Indiana, gave an illustrated lecture
on The Lower Mississippi River.
376 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
Special Meeting, April 1, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Professor Angelo Heilprin, President of the Philadelphia Geographical
Club, gave an illustrated lecture, entitled “Across the Atlas Mountains
and into the Sahara.”’
Special Reception, April 2, 1898.—A Special Reception in honor of Capt.
Charles D. Sigsbee, U. S. N., was held at the Arlington Hotel from 9 to
ll p.m. About 1,500 members and guests of the Society were present,
including the President of the United States, the Vice-President, members
of the Cabinet, Diplomatic Corps, and officers of the Army and Navy.
Special Meeting, April 4, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Mr W J McGee gave an illustrated lecture on the Prairie States.
Regular Meeting, April 8, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Mr F. H. Newell gave an illustrated lecture on Mount Rainier.
Special Meeting, April 11, 1898.—President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Mr G. K. Gilbert gave an illustrated lecture on The Great Interior Basin
of the United States.
Special Meeting, April 15, 1898.— President A. Graham Bell in the chair.
Miss Annie S. Peck gave an illustrated lecture, entitled “A Visit to Mexico,
including Ascents of Popocatepetl and Orizaba.”
Special Meeting, April 18, 1898.—Mr W J McGee in thechair. Professor
Israel C. Russell, of the University of Michigan, gave an illustrated lec-
ture on The Great Lakes and Lake Region.
Regular Meeting, April 22, 1898.—Mr W J McGee in the chair. Proposed
amendments to the by-laws were presented in writing and read by the
Secretary. Mr Gifford Pinchot gave an illustrated lecture on The Olympic
Forest Reserve.
Special Meeting, April 25, 1898.—Mr W J McGee in the chair. Professor
W. H. Brewer, of the Sheffield Scientific School, Yale University, gave
an illustrated lecture on The Forest States, Park Reservations, and
Forestry Laws.
Execrions.—New members have been elected as follows:
February 4, 1898.—F rank Boteler, C. W. H. Ellis, Mrs J. Kerr, Mrs N.
R. Mullin, Miss Sarah Fuller, Miss Caroline A. Yale.
February 25.—Col. Wm. S. Brackett, Mrs T. L. Cornell, Horace S.
Cummings, O. P. Maxson, M. D., Frank Julian Price, W. H. Singleton,
G. F. C. Smillie.
March 4.—Rafael Garcia y S. Tacio, James M. Hubbard, Paul M. Hub-
bard, Chief Eng’r Harrie Webster, U.S. N.
March 25.—Professor O. P. Morton.
April 1.—A. A. Anderson.
April &.—Jas. E. Fitch, Laurence Sands.
April 15.—Professor Pomeroy Ladue, Mrs Ellen Laird, Lieut. J. A.
Shipton, U.S. N., Grant Squires.
To be completed in the September number.
r NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
tbs
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CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RY.
HE F. F. V. LIMITED is one of the finest trains hauled over any railway track in America. It runs
solid between Cincinnati and New York, the route from Washington being over the Pennsylvania
system. It has every modern convenience and appliance, and the dining-car service has no superior if
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from one end to the other; the greater portion is laid with one-hundred-pound steel rails, and although
curves are numerous in the mountain section, the ride is as smooth as over a Western prairie.
One of the most delightful rides in all the route is that through the New River valley. The
mountains are just low enough to be clad with verdure to the very top, and in the early spring every
variety of green known to the mixer of colors can be seen, while the tones in autumn take on all the
range from brown to scarlet.
These facts should be borne in mind by the traveler between the East and the West.
H. W. FULLER, Gen/. Pass. Agent, Washington, D. C.
' CALIFORNIA...
:
OF course you expect to go there this summer. Let
me whisper something in your ear. Be sure that
tieMmetiin portion of your ticket reads viaj the ) i) 7% p
Northern Pacitic-Shasta Route. ss
AN
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the United States, including [It. Hood and [lt. Rainier,
each more than 14,000 feet high, [lt. St. Helens,
s Mt. Adams, and others. You will also be privileged
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14 such wonderful new gold discoveries have been made,
and to Yellowstone Park, the wonderland not only of
the United States, but of the World. Park season
begins June Ist each year. Close railroad connections
made in Union Station, Portland, for Puget Sound
cities and the east, via Northern Pacific.
CHAS. S. FEE,
General Passenger Agent, St. Paul, Minn.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
: SOUTHERN RAILWAY
GREATEST SOUTHERN SYSTEM.
Penetrates with its main line or branches eight States
South of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, and in con-
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Pullman Sleeping Cars—Dining Cars—Day Coaches.
Additional Trains for local travelers... .. . .
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Winter Resorts of - . » »« MEXICO and CALIFORNIA,
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Through Car Line to and from Asheville and Hot Springs—‘‘ The Land of the Sky.’’
Write for Map Folders.
A. S. THWEATT, Kastern Passenger Agent, 271 Broadway, New York, N. Y.
J. C. HORTON, Passenger Agent, 201 EK. Baltimore Street, Baltimore, Md.
L. S. BROWN, General Agent, 705 Fifteenth St. N. W., Washington, D. C.
J. H. WINGFIELD, Passenger Agent, Norfolk, Va.
S. H. HARDWICK, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Atlanta, Ga.
Cc. A. BENSCOTER, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Chattanooga, Tenn.
W. H. TAYLOEH, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Louisville, Ky.
J. M. CULP, Traffic Manager. W. A. TURK, General Passenger Agent.
The Mutual Life Insurance Co.
OF NEW YORK,
RICHARD A. McCURDY, President,
Is the Largest Insurance Company in the World.
The Records of the Insurance Department of the State of New
York SHOW THAT The Mutual Life
Has a Larger Premium Income - - ($39,000,000)
More Insurance in Force - - - - - ($918,000,000)
A Greater Amount of Assets - - - ($235,000,000)
A Larger Annual Interest Income ($9,000,000)
Writes More New Business~ - - - ($136,000,000)
And Pays More to Policy-holders ($25,000,000 in 1896)
THAN ANY OTHER COMPANY.
It has paid to Policy-holders since |
its organization, in 1848, (tk Rei $437,005,195.29
ROBERT A. GRANNISS, Vice-President.
WALTER R. GILLETTE, General Manager. FREDERIC CROMWELL, Treasurer.
ISAAC F. LLOYD, Second Vice-President, EMORY McCLINTOCK, Actuary.
WILLIAM J. EASTON, Secretary.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
EeaSTPAUL
maoas' os MINNEAPOLIS
CHICAGO or ST. Louis
The Fastest and Finest Train in the West... .
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Send for Descriptive Pamphlet ‘49-96, E. L. LOMAX,
Folders and other peer isi ua Matter. General Passenger and Ti chet Agent,
(Mention this publication.) OMAHA, NEB.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
THE CHICAGO, MILWAUKEE AND ST. PAUL RAILWAY
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Electric Lighted and Steam Heated Vestibuled Trains between Chicago, Mil-
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Through Parlor Cars on day trains between Chicago, St. Paul and Minneapolis.
Electric Lighted and Steam Heated Vestibuled Trains between Chicago and
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Through Sleeping Cars, Free Reclining Chair Cars and Coaches between Chicago
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Only two hours from Chicago to Milwaukee. Seven fast trains each way, daily,
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Solid trains between Chicago and principal points in Northern Wisconsin and
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Through Trains with Palace Sleeping Cars, Free Reclining Chair Cars and Coaches
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Everything First-class. First-class People patronize First- ees Lines.
Ticket Agents everywhere sell tickets over the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Ry.
GEO. H. HEAFFORD,
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WHENEVER YOU VISIT WASHINGTON _
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a NG Ty AS aR TSS NII NINN I a Ni Ne NC NG Na NN NING NENG
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For tickets, rates or any detailed information apply
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST.
The only American magazine devoted to the science of Anthropology in
all its branches is THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST, published at the
National Capital. This journal is now in its eleventh year of increasing
usefulness.
No magazine ever published on the Western continent is such a
storehouse of authentic information concerning ARCHEOLOGY, ETHNOL-
OGY, FOLK-LORE, ITECHNOLOGY, SocioLoGy, HIsTrory, SOMATOLOGY,
PsyCHOLOGY, PHILOSOPHY, and PHiILoLocy. Its contributions to our
knowledge of these subjects, especially in so far as they relate to the
American Indians, past and present, are of world-wide authority. Its
contributors are America’s foremost scholars.
Is your name on the subscription list of the ANTHROPOLOGIST? If
not, it should be. No one interested in anthropology in any of its branches
can afford to be without it. Swdscribe today. A new volume begins with
the January number.
A bibliography of the anthropologic literature of the world is one of its features.
Handsomely Printed—Abundantly Illustrated.
Published Monthly—Two Dollars a Year.
Volume XI Begins with January, 1898.
ADDRESS : THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST,
1804 Columbia Road, Washington, D. C.
COMMENCED JANUARY, 1888. TWO VOLUMES PER YEAR,
THE AMERICAN GEOLOGIST,
iets) s.
The Oldest Exclusively Geological Magazine Published in America
TERMS.
To Subscribers in the United States, Canada and Mexico............. ... $3.50 a year
MorothersubscribersmuthevlbostalslWmione sa sesee te eee cene rie aae 4.00 a year
The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST is issued monthly from the office of publication at Minne-
apolis, Minnesota, United States of America. Twenty volumes are completed; the twenty-
first began with the number for January, 1898. The magazine has received a cordial
welcome and a generous support from leading geologists everywhere and it is now
recognized as the exponent of the rapid geological progress that is taking place on
the continent of North America, including Canada, the United States and Mexico. No-
where else in the world are geologic phenomena exhibited on a more extensive scale
and nowhere else are results attained of greater economic and scientific importance.
The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST \ays before its readers from month to month the latest
results of geological work. In addition to the longer papers it gives synopses of recent
geological publications and brief notes on current geological events.
THE GEOLOGICAL PUBLISHING CO.,
Minneapouis, Minn,
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MONOGRAPHS
On the PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE EARTH'S SURFACE, designed especially to supply to teachers and
students of geography fresh and interesting material with which to supplement the regular text-book.
LIST OF MONOGRAPHS COMPRISING VOLUME I:
GENERAL PHYSIOGRAPHIC PROCESSES - - - - - -
GENERAL PHYSIOGRAPHIC FEATURES - - - - - - hy. W. Powell
PHYSIOGRAPHIC REGIONS OF THE UNITED STATES - - -
BEACHES AND TIDAL MARSHES OF THE ATLANTIC COAST Prot. N. S. Shaler
PRESENT AND EXTINCT LAKES OF NEVADA - - - - Prof. I. C. Russell
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS—NORTHERN-SECTION - - - Bailey Willis
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS—SOUTHERN SECTION - - - C. Willard Hayes
MT. SHASTA—A TYPICAL EXTINCT VOLCANO - - - - J. S. Diller
THE NEW ENGLAND PLATEAU - - - - - - - Prof. W. M. Davis
NIAGARA FALLS AND ITS HISTORY - - - - - - G. K. Gilbert
Price for one set of ten monographs, $1.50. Five sets toone address, $6.00. Single monographs, 20c.
Remit with order to AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY,
New York - Cincinnati c Chicago
Ripans Tabules assist digestion.
TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM
An International Quarterly Journal
Edited by L. A. BAUER
With the Co-operation’ of Eminent Magneticians
Witt the March, 1898, issue, this Journal, devoted exclusively to Terrestrial Magnetism and allied
subjects, such as Karth Currents, Auroras, Atmospheric Electricity, ete., entered on its third
volume. ‘The hearty co-operation extended by the workers in this promising field of investigation, as
abundantly shown by the numbers thus far issued, has made this Journal the international organ for
making known the latest achievements. The magnetic needle has become such a promising instrument
of research, not only in terrestrial, but in cosmical physics, that this Journal appeals to a large class of
investigators. The geographer, the geologist, the astronomer, the meteorologist—all are interested in
the development of the subject of terrestrial magnetism. It should therefore receive their support.
Among the contributors of the main articles in the past have been Messrs. Barus, Borgen, Chree, Com-
mander Davis, Eschenhagen, Hellmann, Littlehales, McAdie, Rticker, Schmidt, Schuster, and de Tillo.
Future numbers will contain :
‘¢The Height of the Aurora,’’
By Pror. CLEVELAND ABBE.
‘¢ The Investigation of Hidden Periodicities in Terrestrial Magnetism
and Meteorology,’’
By Pror. ARTHUR SCHUSTER, F.R.S.
‘‘The Relation of Terrestrial Magnetism to Geology,”’
(As exhibited by recent investigations of various Authors.)
‘“‘ Descriptions of Magnetic Observatories,’’
(Illustrated)
By THE DIRECTORS OF THE OBSERVATORIES.
_ The size of the Journal is royal octavo, a volume embracing about 200 pages. Domestic subscription
price: Two dollars; single numbers, fifty cents. Foreign subscription price: Nine shillings, nine
marks, or eleyen francs. Address:
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The University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, Ohie.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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_C, HART ‘MBRRIAM a RUHAMAH SCIDMORE-
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PRESIDENT
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Vick- PRESIDENT
~ W J McGHE
Boarp or MANAGERS A
1896-1899 - 1897-1900 1898-1901 7
CHARLES J. BELL MARCUS BAKER _ A. GRAHAM BELL j
WILLIAM H. DALL HENRY F. BLOUNT HENRY GANNETT
DAVID T. DAY F. VY. COVILLE A. W. GREELY ae
G. K. GILBERT EVERETT HAYDEN ~ JOHN HYDE 3
HERBERT G. OGDEN C. HART MERRIAM WJ McGEE
ELIZA R. SCIDMORE W. B. POWELL EF. H. NEWELL 3
TREASURER
HENRY GANNETT
RECORDING SECRETARY CoRRESPONDING SECRETARY
F. H. NEWELL ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE
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National Geographic Magazine
Vou. IX - SEPTEMBER, 1898 No. 9
Tle GAOW Wal Ole isle WINONA AS IEA Nes)
By W J McGmEs,
Vice-President of the National Geographic Society
With the annexation of Hawaii an end came to America’s
longest period of inactivity in territorial expansion. During
this period of thirty-one years—nearly an average generation—
the great fact of almost unparalleled expansion in earlier decades
has been half forgotten.
Beginning with an area of 827,844 square miles and a marine
coast line of full 1,500 miles, the nation concentrated energy on
internal affairs for twenty-three years; then, in 1803, the Lou-
isiana purchase was consummated and Oregon territory was
acquired, adding 1,171,951 square miles to the national domain
and 1,000 linear miles to the coast line; so that ata single bound
the territory was more than*doubled and the coast line nearly
doubled, while an outlet was gained on the Pacific. The mate-
rial expansion was quickly reflected in a widening of intellectual
horizon among the people, who were thereby confronted by new
problems; for, under republican organization, national problems
are problems of the people rather than of leaders only. The
immediate result was renewed intellectual and industrial activity
and the implanting of a trait which has since become national,
i. €., enterprise; the more remote effects included development
of interior commerce, the application of steam to inland naviga-
tion, the founding of a foreign carrying trade, and the real open-
ing of that career of invention and manufacture which has given
character to the American people.
* An address delivered at the Joint Session of the National Geographic Society and
the American Association for the Advancement of Science, Boston, August 25, 1898.
26
378 THE GROWTH OF THE UNITED STATES
After eighteen years of internal development, with a single
international episode, Florida was acquired Gn 1821), adding
59,268 square miles of territory and nearly 1,500 miles of coast
line; and such further impetus was given to enterprise that the
more southerly Americans soon found their territory too narrow
and pushed beyond the border. A consequence of this over-
flow was the separation of Texas from Mexico, followed in 1845
by the annexation of this empire of 376,163 square miles, with
500 miles of coast line; another consequence was the treaty of
Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848, bringing in California and adja-
cent territory amounting to 545,753 square miles and adding
another 1,000 miles to the coast; and a less direct consequence
was the Gadsden purchase in 1853 of 44,641 square miles, round-
ing out the home territory to its present area of 3,025,600 square
miles, with some 5,500 miles of open coast.
This career of territorial expansion in the half century from
Louisiana purchase to Gadsden purchase forms the most strik-
ing chapter in national development afforded by the history of
the world. In the first place, the actual expansion in territory
and coast line was almost unparalleled; the area was nearly
quadrupled and the coast line more than tripled. In the second
place, the greater part of the acquisition was amicable, coming
in part as a voluntary offering, while in no case did armed force
play more than an incidental role; there was no conquest in the
sense in which the term is used in other countries. In the third
place, the expansion was beyond precedent in the completeness
and promptness with which the new territory was utilized and
the new conditions assimilated; with each areal addition na-
tional enterprise merely found a curb removed and sprang spon-
taneously to meet the new tasks and new problems presented
by the new territory ; and the energies of the people, withheld
from martial conquest by moral sense, turned with unprece-
dented vigor to the conquest of nature, to the conversion of
natural forces for human weal. Finally, the effect of the ex-
pansion on national character—foreshadowed by the advance of
1803—was beyond all parallel; for enterprise interacted with
enterprise, and brought forth an individual and collective activ-
ity among the mass of citizens such as the world had not seen
before.
After 1853 the nation rested from expansion for fourteen years,
of which four were devoted to the solution of grave internal prob-
lems; then (in 1867) a bargain-counter acquisition, giving little
THE GROWTH OF THE UNITED STATES 379
promise of early profit, was made, whereby a territory estimated
at 531,000 square miles, with a relatively extensive coast line,
was added to the national possessions. The influence of this
purchase on national progress and on national character was
limited, save as a hard-worked occasion for criticism of the pol-
icy of territorial development. ‘The reaction from the internal
tension of the early 60s and from the nearly profitless expan-
sion of 67 naturally made itself felt in public policy ; it is ex-
pressed in the thirty-one years of respite from external growth.
Now, after long begging for admission, as Texas begged fifty
years before, Hawaii is admitted, with 6,640 square miles of
area and a wealth of coast line; the garden island of Porto Rico,
3,670 square miles in area, is gladly entering the domain of Amer-
ica as an incident of a war for humanity’s sake; and the hun-
dreds of Philippine islands, comprising 114,326 square miles of
aggregate territory, are looking to America for protection and
ultimate absorption. Considered merely as territory, these ad-
ditions, aggregating 124,656 square miles, would form but a rip-
ple on the stream of national progress, even if consummated at
once; the area is little more than twice that of the Gadsden
purchase, less than twice that of the Florida purchase, only a
third that of the Texan annexation, less than a quarter so large
as either the Californian acquisition or the Alaskan purchase,
less than an eighth of the nation-shaping acquisitions of 1803,
less than 4 per cent of the previous area.
Apart from the events of 1898, one of the striking features of
American history has been almost unparalleled territorial ex-
pansion with quite unparalleled territorial assimilation ; and,
viewed in the light of this history, the comparatively slight ex-
pansion of 1898 but marks the resumption of a career tempora-
rily checked by a combination of circumstances.
The territorial growth of the United States has been shaped
constantly by natural conditions rather than national policy ;
for, since the days of the first President, it has been the idea of
the American citizen to avoid “entangling alliances ” and foreign
complications. Partly for this reason, the rapid enlargement of
the domain of the United States met opposition at every step
from conservative statesmen. The Louisiana purchase was
almost a surprise even to those by whom it was consummated,
while a large part of Oregon territory was literally thrown
away in 1846 by dint of political maneuvering, despite political
platforms and the wishes of the inhabitants; and the self-pro-
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THE GROWTH OF THE UNITED STATES 381
posed annexation of Texas was successfully resisted for years.
The acquisition of California was regarded as a special menace,
for the reason that its fertile valleys and commodious harbors
were distant three months’ journey by land and six months’
voyage by water, while the territory was inhabited partly by
treacherous aliens but mainly by savage tribes; yet cautious
statesmen, emboldened by the success of the Louisiana purchase,
ventured on the step despite the fact that America was still an ex-
periment in nation-making, with no standing among the powers,
with a population of but 20,000,000, and with narrow commer-
cial and industrial resources ;. and the step proved the most
important in the career of the nation. In this as in other cases
the territory was ripe for acquisition by an enlightened nation;
the inhabitants were ill-governed and desirous of change; there
was a need, more or less fully felt, for the extension of enlighten-
ment in the dark places.. In no case, save possibly that of
Alaska, has expansion grown out of mercenary motives ; yet in
no case, save possibly Alaska again, has the acquisition of terri-
tory failed to benefit the inhabitants of the territory acquired,
the nation which made the acquisition, and the world at large.
America’s progress in territorial development has never been
the outcome of ulterior policy; it has always been an expres-
sion of manifest destiny.
The various elements of national growth are intimately re-
lated ; some of them are shown graphically in the accompanying
table and diagram.* The fundamental element is area, which
is indicated in the line platted by ordinates and abscissas in such
manner as to show quantitatively the territorial accessions and
the intervening periods of inactivity, the line being projected on
the assumption that the entire area of the Philippines as well as
Hawaii and Porto Rico will be absorbed during the year. The
next element is population, which is shown graphically from the
Census figures of 1790 and later decades ; it, too, is projected on
the assumption that the 109,000 people of Hawaii, and also the
807,000 people of Porto Rico and the 7,000,000 people of the
Philippines, will be added to our population during the year.
A function of these elements combined is population-density
(i. e., the average population per square mile), which is platted
* The values are mainly taken from Gannett’s ‘Statistical Atlas,’ recently published
by the Census Office, partly from the ‘‘Statistical Abstract’’ for 1897, recently pub-
lished by the Bureau of Statistics of the Treasury Department, partly from the ‘‘ States-
man’s Year Book” for 1898.
382 THE GROWTH OF THE UNITED STATES
from the Census figures with the same assumptions concerning
expansion during 1898. The three lines of the diagram express
several salient facts in American history: The territorial acqui-
sitions have been enormous, much more than quadrupling the
original area; no accession (up to 1898) has materially affected
the population curve, yet the population has steadily increased
by a normal growth of beautiful symmetry ; the density of pop-
ulation has also increased ina symmetric normal, interrupted by
each of the greater accessions in area. The only noteworthy break
in the population curve is that representing the teeming Filipi-
nos, though even this does not materially affect the density curve.
The steady increase in density of population in the United
States is a striking and promising feature of national develop-
ment; it is an equally striking and still more hopeful fact that,
so far as the Census values permit determination, each accession
has stimulated the increase of population and has soon been
followed by an increased population-density.
While each accession of area has tended to hasten the in-
crease in population, other effects of even greater significance
have followed, though figures for the expression of these effects
are lacking for the earler decades in the history of the United
States. The immediate effect of the acquisition of Louisiana
and Oregon was increase in navigation, both oceanic and inte-
rior, with a decided advance in domestic commerce; budding
enterprise was directed to invention and steamboats were placed
on the rivers, while improvements in agriculture were diligently
sought. These advances were stimulated anew when Florida
was acquired, and American carrying trade came to be a factor
in the progress of the world. During’ the period of concentra-
tion following these acquisitions, canals were projected as aux-
iliaries to the natural waterways, while railroading was gradually
introduced as a sort of auxiliary to river and canal. Then came
the epoch-marking accessions of the mid-century, with the neces-
sity for more expeditious transportation facilities than navigable
waterways and ocean-going vessels could possibly afford; and
native genius responded by improving locomotives and railway-
building beyond the most sanguine dreams of progressive states-
men, and made America a railway nation; and the curve repre-
senting railway development is one of the striking features in
the graphic history of the United States.* The carrying trade
*The decline in railway building after 1890, shown in the diagram, should not be
misinterpreted; it merely marks the gradual substitution of electric locomotion, bicy-
cles, etc., for steam locomotion.
3, €
THE GROWTH OF THE UNITED STATES 383
in American bottoms also was stimulated, and its increase for a
time almost kept pace with the growth of railroading ; but the
natural conditions which rendered the railway a necessity did
not force genius and capital toward ship-building and maritime
commerce, and, when internal conditions checked these activi-
ties in the early ’60s, they were not resumed but permitted to
fall into foreign hands. Accordingly there is a single element
of American growth which is of negative character, a single di-
rection in which the less brilliant genius of non-American pro-
moters has been allowed to sap American strength, as shown by
the curves representing the American carrying trade in Amer-
ican and foreign bottoms from 1820 to 1897.
The growth of the nation is indicated in an external or super-
ficial way by the increase in area, population, and commercial
agencies, and that growth has been unprecedented in uniformity
and rapidity, as indicated by the lines in the diagram ; yet the
essential elements of American growth cannot be expressed in
square miles of area, in linear miles of railway and waterway,
in transportation tonnage, or in other definite units; the real
erowth lies in the development of enterprise, intellectual and
moral and physical vigor, or, in brief, intelligent individuality.
The strength of America is indeed faintly suggested by broad
territorial expanse, teeming millions of people, and half the rail-
ways of the world; the real strength lies in the immeasurable
capabilities of individuals, who have already made noble con-
quest of nature’s forces; and there are no units for measur-
ing the spontaneous powers of freemen united by common im-
pulse in the common task of elevating mankind and bettering
the world. While there ig no direct way of measuring the indi-
viduality—much less the unity—of the American people, there
are certain values indicating this quality even more clearly than
area or population; one of these is wealth, individual and col-
lective.* Unfortunately, early figures for the expression of wealth
* Mulhall’s latest estimates of national wealth in the several countries are as follows:
WWiiaTHi@G! SHVIOS) ccodeccdadaddocade pdeodadconosodbopaacpocaqbeenOcc00n tegoacueSuDbocpd9qudsqnoosdnbaced0 vee. $81,750,000,000
Great Britain 59,030,000,000
IP M@@),craccocoondocococdsc6saqdoacoo eb osdsue BHOOEdaanDacoEn?DDDocodedasodoRd bcs bac ddadoDagCdRBIOGHDBSBENCO 47,950,000,000
GeOLTMATY........ 5. ececccec ec ccecencececereeeceeeeasccecceerscecserterensasss sescnsess 40,260,000,000
TRUUBISFSITE rcp nonosnoanconece execdxnobnN62b9dedende000600000000590000000 : 32,125,000,000
Austria......... 22,,560,000,000
Italy....... 15,800,000,000
Sy ORHIN ccacaacaaseend Gecepabechos deseo peqpoessud0Bece adecshdaqasecevo00560+09 aAcEce Basaeg Hoo DEesebusscecjoseedd 11,300,000,000
These computations are based upon values as shown by real-estate records, buildings,
merchandise, and railways, as well as the circulating medium in each nation.—Finan-
cial Review, vol. vii, No. 9, 1898, p. 5.
o84 THE GROWTH OF THE UNITED STATES
are lacking, but since 1850 wealth has increased more rapidly
than any other measurable factor in national progress, as illus-
trated by the remaining curvesin the diagram. In the last half-
century the population of the United States has more than
tripled, yet the wealth has more than thrice tripled, and the per
capita wealth of the American citizen has risen far above the
corresponding value for the other countries. This element of
growth, too, is correlated with the increase in area, especially
the epochal accession of half a century ago; for, although the
statistics are wanting for the first half of the century, mere in-
spection of the later curves shows that the rate of increase must
have been at least doubled or tripled almost immediately after
the acquisition of Texas and California.
On reviewing the factors of national development, it becomes
clear that territorial expansion, great as it has been, is not the
principal one; for population has increased much more rapidly
than area, while wealth (a partial expression of individual enter-
prise) has increased three times more rapidly than population—
it becomes clear that American progress resides in the conquest
of nature rather than in conquest of nations. Yet it is equally
clear that every territorial accession gave new opportunity for
growing enterprise, and was soon followed by new industries,
new associations, new lines of thought, all contributing to in-
creased individual wealth and augmented national strength. It
is no less clear that the character of the territorial accession has
shaped the character of the consequent progress: The Louisiana
purchase created a demand for navigation of the Mississippi and
its tributaries; the demand was met by the native genius which
is always with us, and the finest steam-packet system in the
world was developed to meet it. The conquest of California
created a demand for transportation facilities ; it was met by the
development of the American railway system. The pushing of
population into the arid districts created a demand for irriga-
tion; it has been met by the development of irrigation engineer-
ing, irrigation laws, and other features of an irrigation system
which marks an era in national history. On the whole it seems
clear that the several factors of development are interrelated in
a manner so natural and necessary as to produce that normal
growth so conspicuous in the history of the United States; that
the rapid territorial expansion of early decades was not too rapid
for assimilation in the national structure, yet was rapid enough
to meet national needs.
THE GROWTH OF THE UNITED STATES 386
A glance from the history of the nation to the century’s his-
tory of the world indicates the force and beneficence of the
American example; the relations are too many for even sum-
mary statement; it may only be noted that the absorption of
American ideas and the imitation of American methods by other
peoples and nations proves that the progress of this nation is
meeting a need of the world.
Cautious students presage the future from the history of the
past ; and the American of today must look to the lessons of
1803, 1821, 1845, and 1848 for indications of results to follow from
expansion in 1898. The trend of these lessons is clear. After
a generation of concentration, American energy is more tense
than ever before; American enterprise and capital are overflow-
ing in every direction—in Canadian mines, in Mexican railways,
in South American plantations, and in scores of other ways ;
American progress has outstripped that of the rest of the world
in every line save that of oceanic shipping; American genius
will not be pent and is bound to diffuse itself by individual
effort if not by national action. Such is the present condition
of the United States, as demonstrated by any fair arrangement of
figures or growth-curves—the young giant is rending his chains.
The prospect is definite: Just as the Louisiana purchase in 1803
made America a steamboat nation, and just as the acquisition
of California in 1848 made America a railway and telegraph na-
tion, so the acquisition of Hawaii and Porto Rico and above all
of the Philippines in 1898 must make America the naval nation
of the earth; for the problem born of the accession would be
that problem of navigation’ which needs American genius for
its final solution, while America needs the incentive to strengthen
that element in which alone she is weak. The Philippines are
remote—only a fraction so remote in time as was California a
half-century ago, yet remote enough to compel the invention of
devices for shortening time and annihilating space ; and the
problem of bringing Manila within a fortnight of San Francisco
is one worthy the genius of the inventors of the innumerable
devices involved in steamboating, railroading, and telegraphing.
Given swift vessels, the other problems presented by the Garden
of the Kast are of little consequence save as forecasting direc-
tions for the profitable expenditure of long-pent energy; the
7,000,000 pastoral natives and tax-gathering Spaniards are a far
less menace to our quadrupled population and multiphed power
386 THE GROWTH OF THE UNITED STATES
than were the savage tribes and resident Mexicans of California ;
while it is the special function of the republican form of govern-
ment to render the inhabitants of acquired territory not only
self-supporting but self-governing. The progress of mankind
may be measured by advance in speed of locomotion, beginning
with fleetness of foot, coming up through fleetness of ridden
and driven animals, and ending with swiftness of locomotive
engines and sea-going craft; and, with vessels of sufficient swift-
ness and projectiles of sufficient velocity, there need be little
fear of foreign complications, little occasion for maintaining
great navies; for, if commercial competition be but aroused,
individual effort may be trusted to develop the devices required
for national protection. The fact that a quickly converted mer-
chantman commanded by a Sigsbee, or that a hastily armed
yacht commanded by a Wainwright can wreck torpedo-boat de-
stroyers and naval theory together is full of promise, since it is
the normal function of a free nation to produce Sigsbees and
Wainwrights, to develop swiftness and certainty of action, and
to meet emergencies as they arise. Nor need there be fear of
occasion for large standing armies, since citizens require no such
restraint and constraint as unwilling subjects, and are ever ready
to rise in patriotic and thinking might to support the nation of
which they are voluntary parts.
.The history of the growth of the United States is one of un-
equaled progress in territorial acquisition, in normal develop-
ment of population, in augmentation of wealth, and, above all,
in development of a national character in which individual
enterprise and capacity are the most conspicuous traits. There
is but a single line in which progress has been sluggish, and
that is the line which must inevitably be strengthened through
the stirring episodes of 1898; and, in case the accession extend
to far Luzon and Mindanao, America must soon lead the world
in ocean navigation as in other directions, and begin a conquest
of the sea no less complete and noble than the conquest of the
land already wrought. More than all else, the territorial acqui-
sitions must contribute toward the extension of enlightenment,
toward the elevation of humanity, and toward the ultimate
peace and welfare of the world.
He errs who forgets the history of his country. Every citizen
of the United States would do well to remember the decades
past, and realize that the growth of 1898 marks no new policy,
and is but the normal continuation of a course of development
successfully pursued for a century.
IBMT WEI IROOW IKORIST INES.
By Ricuarp U. Goopr,
U.S. Geological Survey
Asa result of inadequately framed laws, of the indifference
of those charged with the execution of these laws, and of the
reckless greed of private enterprise, the forests of this country,
which atone time were of vast and apparently inexhaustible
proportions, are gradually wasting away. In 1860 there were
about 20,000 saw-mills, in 1870 about 26,000, and in 1880 about
the same number; in 1890, however, the number was reduced to
about 21,000, this reduction being largely due to the fact that
the supply of available material was becoming scarcer and more
inaccessible.
Practically, it has been impossible to place any restraint upon
those desiring to use the timber on the public lands for any pur-
pose whatever. One law provides that citizens may cut and
remove for building, agricultural, mining, and other domestic
purposes any trees growing on mineral lands, while another per-
mits residents to take timber from non-mineral lands—and the
land is usually held to be mineral or non-mineral as may suit
the particular case. There are numerous other laws on the
statute books under which timber may be taken under some
show of legality, and in taking out the matured trees no atten-
tion has usually been given to the preservation of the young
growth, and much that could not be used has been destroyed.
Added to the above causes have been the forest fires, started
either through accident or design, so that the question has begun
to assume such a serious aspect that prompt measures have been
deemed necessary by those interested in the preservation of the
forests.
As a result of this agitation, a commission of the National
Academy of Sciences was appointed in 1896 for the purpose of
making an investigation of the subject. This commission sub-
mitted a report recommending the establishment of thirteen
forest reservations, containing an ageregate area of 21,379,840
acres, or about 35,400 square miles. In conformity with this
recommendation President Cleveland, under date of February
387
388 BIITER ROOT FOREST RESERVE
22, 1897, set apart from entry or settlement the various areas as
recommended, one being the Bitter Root Forest Reserve. Pre-
vious to this there had already been established by Executive
proclamation, in various localities in the West, reservations com-
prising a total area of 17,500,000 acres, or about 27,300 square
miles. :
Following immediately upon President Cleveland’s proclama-
tion protests and complaints began to pour into the Executive
Mansion, and when President McKinley came into office he
found himself in a somewhat embarrassing position, people hav-
ing interests that were supposed to be detrimentally affected
claiming that the reservations had been made without thorough
investigation and without consulting local requirements. In
order to relieve the situation and to obtain time for further in-
vestigation, legislation was enacted providing for the survey by
the U.S. Geological Survey of all lands heretofore designated as
forest reserves, suspending President Cleveland’s proclamation,
except as to the reservations in California, and restoring all
others to the public domain, but providing that such lands not
otherwise disposed of before March 1, 1898, should again become
subject to President Cleveland’s proclamation.
The function of the Geological Survey in the matter has been
to ascertain and report on the facts relating to the forest reserves,
so that intelligent action may be taken at the proper time as to
the disposition of the whole question.
There is probably no portion of the country, exclusive of
Alaska, about which there was so little known as of the territory
included in the Bitter Root Reserve. It therefore became neces-
sary to commence ab iitio, as nothing whatever was available
from a geographic standpoint. In considering questions of this
kind the value of reliable maps cannot be overestimated. The
engineer, the geologist, the botanist, or any one practically in-
terested in any of the sciences, pure or applied, must have an
accurate map as a basis for any thoroughly satisfactory investi-
gation, and it thus came about that a large proportion of the
amount appropriated for the forestry surveys was expended in
the preparation of topographic maps.
The first step was to determine an astronomic position, measure
a base line, and expand a system of triangulation which would
serve to furnish starting and control points. A location for the
astronomic station was selected in the town of Hamilton, Mon-
tana, and the latitude and longitude of a masonry pier built at
BITTER ROOT FOREST RESERVE 389
this point was determined. This work was performed by MrS.58.
Gannett, who had the cooperation in the longitude work of Pro-
fessor H. 8. Pritchett, then of the Washington University at St
Louis, and now Superintendent of the U.S. Coast and Geodetic
Survey. The latitude was obtained by circumzenith observations
0n.56 pairs of stars, and the longitude by time observations and tel-
egraphic exchange of clock signals with St Louis on five nights.
The probable error of the results obtained for this position was
very small, so that it was certain within a few feet, the surface of
the whole terrestrial globe being taken into consideration. ‘lhe
next process was to measure a base line one end of which would
be connected with theastronomie pier. This line was measured
along a tangent of the Northern \Pacific Railroad. The total
leneth of it was 5.85 miles, and the difference between the two
measurements after all corrections had been apphed was about
1 inch—that is, the probable error was about 1: 3838000 part of
the length.
From this base line was expanded a system of trianeulation,
which was executed with great care within certain limits, the
triangles closing with an average error of 2 seconds. Beyond
these it was extended as a reconnaissance survey, but it is be-
heved that the results obtained will be entirely sufficient for
map-making purposes, although it will eventually be completed
inamore refined way. The surveys were under the general direc-
tion of Mr E. C. Barnard, who was personally in charge of a
party engaged in the detailed mapping of the Bitter Root valley
and the adjacent mountains. He had as assistants in charge of
sub-parties Messrs J. B. Lippincott and H. 8. Hackbusch.
The bounding lines of this Reserve are defined in part by the
land lines of the public land system, none of which had been
surveyed. For the purpose of locating these boundaries and
also for establishing a basis from which other township and sec-
tion lines could be projected a special party, under Mr Hack-
busch, was organized, and the results of this work were the de-
termination and marking of the greater portion of the eastern
boundary. The existing law relating to the subdivision of the
public land requires that all hnear measurements shall be made
with a chain, a method which in a heavily timbered and moun-
tainous country is very inaccurate and laborious. The men en-
gaged in this class of work encountered many hardships, ex-
hausted their physical strength, and were able to accomplish so
little at a large expense that the question of the feasibility of
390 BITTER ROOT FOREST RESERVE
doing it by triangulation presented itself, and legislation has been
proposed granting authority to the Geological Survey to locate
township corners in the forest reserves by this method.
The area of the Bitter Root Forest Reserve is about 6,500 square
miles. about one-sixth being in Montana and the remaining por-
tion in Idaho, the crest of the Bitter Root mountains forming
the boundary line between the two States in this locality, and
the problem presented itself as to how a satisfactory map, for
the purpose of illustrating the forestry features, could be pre-
pared in the comparatively short field season that the weather
YELLOW PINE GROVE
conditions made possible. A reconnaissance map was decided
upon, and the assistant, Mr J. B. Lippincott, who executed the
triangulation, was instructed to take with him a light plane-table
outfit for the purpose of making such a map. The map pre-
pared does not lay claim to absolute accuracy, but it is consid-
ered sufficiently so to answer the purpose for which it was made—
that is, to show the drainage system, the general character of
the forests, etc. Contours were sketched to show the relative
differences of elevation and slopes, and such elevations as were
mathematically determined are given in figures. Also on the
maps are indicated all the trails and such wagon roadsas exist. Mr
Lippincott was also instructed to secure numerous photographs
and to obtain all possible information relating to the forestry, the
BITTER ROOT FOREST RESERVE 391
agricultural and mineral development, and the hydrography of
the Reserve, and many of the facts mentioned here are taken
from his report.
No exact definition of what might be properly included in
the Bitter Root mountain range has ever been authoritatively
determined, and it is very doubtful if sufficient information as
to the physiography of the region exists to satisfactorily settle
the question present; but there can be no doubt that all of the
Reserve under consideration is within: the limits of the Bitter
Root mountains. The conclusions of the writer in the matter
are therefore to be taken as a broad generalization, to be modi-
fied as new facts are brought'to light.
First, with reference to the crest line. This may be consid-
ered as extending on the north from the vicinity of Lake Pend
d’Oreille to the low divide at the south end of the Bitter Root
valley between the drainage of the Bitter Root creek and that of
the north fork of the Salmon river. It is thought that these
mountains should not include territory further southward, as it
is considered desirable to classify the Bitter Root range as en-
tirely tributary to Pacific drainage. The continuation of the
divide southward is drained to the eastward by the tributaries
of the Missouri and should properly be included in the Rocky
Mountain system. The northern portion of the Bitter Roots, as
thus defined, will include ‘the Coeur d’Aléne mountains, as it is
believed that the latter should not have a codrdinate rank in the
orography of this region, but should be assigned as a subordinate
range of the Bitter Root system. If an attempt is made to dif-
ferentiate these two ranges as independent systems, St Regis
pass would serve to break the continuity. With the assumption
of continuity, the eastern and northeastern limits of this system
become very easily defined—that is, by the drainage of the
Clarke’s Fork of the Columbia. It seems also very clear that the
Salmon river should define the southern limits of these moun-
tains. Just how far to the westward they should be considered
as extending is not clear, but, as a preliminary classification,
they may be determined as extending toward the Snake river
plains until they lose their identity as mountain masses. This
classification would assign the Clearwater mountains to a sec-
ondary position in the same manner as the Coeur d’Aléne have
been subordinated.
In detail, the principal drainage systems in and adjacent to
these mountains are the Bitter Root, the Clearwater, and the
392 BITTER ROOT FOREST RESERVE
Salmon rivers. On the eastern slope is the Bitter Root river,
one fork of which heads in the southeast corner of the Reserve
and flows northward through the fertile valley of the same name.
This valley separates the Rocky mountains from the Bitter Root
range for a distance of about 100 miles and at present has a good
agricultural development. The main valley has a width of about
8 or 10 miles, its floor being comparatively level, composed of
lacustrine deposits and very fertile under irrigation. When the
drainage of the ancient lake occurred there was left a heavy
deposit of gravel and other sediment, through which the Bitter
Root river is still cutting, and this process has shifted the flood-
plain back and forth, the result being that in some portions of
the valley well defined terraces have been carved out correspond-
ing to the ‘older floodplains.
The Bitter Root river joins the Missoula near the town of the
same name and ultimately finds an outlet in the Columbia river
through Clarke’s Fork and Lake Pend d’Oreille. Thestreams con-
stituting this drainage are remarkably straight and of a very steep
eradient. ‘Their tangent-like course is due primarily to glacial
agencies, and they have not become modified on account of the
extreme hardness of the rocks. They seek the straight and direct
course and do not loiter amid the inhospitable granite to carve
out for themselves gentle curves. In their haste to reach the
valley they leap and jump and are tossed from boulder to boulder,
now lashing themselves into fleecy whiteness and now circling
in emerald eddies as they plunge into some quiet pool, where
they find a moment’s rest and gather strength for their ever-
downward course. The beds are filled with boulders, and the
sides of the canyons are precipitous and almost entirely bare of
vegetation. These streams in their incessant activity are not only
continually deepening their own beds in the attempt to reach
baselevel, but are gradually working their way westward and
capturing the tributaries of the less active affluents of the Clear-
water, causing what is termed a migration of the divide. The
shifting or migration of a divide is due to the weathering or wast-
ing away of the crest line, and may result from various causes.
It seems probable that the main crest of the Bitter Roots has
‘moved to the westward, owing to the fact that the highest points
at present are all east of the crest line. Ward peak is 8 miles
to the east and about 800 feet higher than the general elevation
of the divide, and St Mary’s and El Capitan peaks each attain
an elevation considerably higher than the divide.
27
MOOSE CREEK
ON
CEDAR FOREST
oot BITTER ROOT FOREST RESERVE
The portion of the Reserve west of the summit of the Bitter Root
mountains (that portion in Idaho) is drained by the Clearwater
and Salmon rivers, about 90 per cent of the territory being tribu-
tary to the former. Both of these streams are affluents of the
Snake river, the Clearwater forming its junction at Lewiston and
the Salmon about 50 miles above, to the southward. The Salmon
has no important tributaries within the limits of the Reserve.
The Clearwater has four principal branches—the North Clear-
water, the drainage area of which is largely north of the Reserve ;
the Laksha, or Middle Clearwater, which has its source about the
base of St Mary’s and St Joseph’s peaks; the Main Clearwater,
which drains the crest line from Lost Horse pass to the Nez Perces
pass, and the South Clearwater. or American river, the smallest
of the four, whose drainage basin is in the southwestern portion
of the Reserve and extends within a few miles of the canyon of
the Salmonriver. It may be mentioned that the location of the
Salmon river in this locality. as shown on the best existing maps,
was found to be in error by from 10 to 15 miles.
The streams constituting the Clearwater system flow generally
in a western direction, and while the various affluents come from
almost every direction, the general result is a series of secondary
east and west ranges which have no well defined connection with
the main range. The summits of the ridges are from 3,000 to
5,000 feet above their enclosing canyons, and each ridge rises to
the same general elevation, so that were a surface laid through
all the crest lines it would be of an undulating and moderately
irregular character. We may therefore assume with some degree
of certainty that the surface represents an old topographic form—
an old plain or peneplain of denudation to which the country
was reduced after a long period of erosion.
The rocks of the Bitter Root mountains are granites and slates,
the granite formation being the northward continuation of the
enormous granite mass of southern Idaho, one of the largest in
the United States. The slates, which are confined to the north-
ern portion of the Reserve, constitute a part of the Belt forma-
tion, these rocks being the oldest stratified beds of the Rocky
Mountain region. At some period since the Carboniferous the
great body of granite out of which this immense tract was carved
was injected as a molten fluid mass from below upward into the
slates. This molten rock cooled slowly, as is shown by its
coarseness of grain, and it must have cooled beneath a cover of
slates ; but this cover has been almost entirely removed and the
Botan ty
Ricmeny as
Wei
oie
os
aa teh
Hea eh
Zi “1d ‘8681 ‘XI “I0A
“OVW "D030 “LVN
BITTER ROOT FOREST RESERVE 395
granite itself deeply cut and dissected. At the time when vol-
canic activity was so predominant a feature in the Yellowstone
Park and the great lava flows of basalt dammed up the Snake
and Columbia rivers west of these mountains, the Bitter Root
valley was effected by tilting of the earth, so that the drainage
Was in many cases reversed and the Bitter Root river was
dammed back, forming the Bitter Root lake, which was over
1,000 feet in depth.
The overflowing waters of the lake gradually deepened the
outlet and drained the lake, clearing out a large part of the sed-
iment, a work not yet entirely accomplished, as the valley has
not been cut down to its former level. The many lakes which
nestle in the mountain amphitheaters and dot the plateaus are
the result of glacial occupancy.
In connection with the reconnaissance survey a forest map
was prepared, and it is published herewith. This map indicates
the features of the forest in the broadest way, no attempt hay-
ing been made to differentiate the species. ‘Two zones of forest
trees are native to the Montana slopes of the Bitter Root Reserve,
the yellow pine and the subalpine fir, about one-fourth of the
growth belonging to the former, which has a range from the
lowest elevations to 5,800, feet, and three-fourths to the latter,
which has a range from 4,200 feet to the highest altitudes. In
the yellow-pine zone the yellow pine constitutes about 20 per
cent of the growth and the hemlock spruce about 60 per cent,
the remaining 20 per cent being distributed among the other
trees included in the zone, the lodge-pole pine, white fir, and
balsam fir. In the subalpine zone the lodge-pole pine consti-
tutes by far the greatest -portion (about 90 per cent) of the
growth, the remaining 10 per cent being Lyall tamarack, sub-
alpine fir, white-bark pine, white fir, Engelmann fir, and yew.
Strictly speaking, only the yellow pine should be classed as
commercial timber, as it alone is used for lumbering purposes ;
but on the map are included under this head the tamarack, the
fir,and the white-bark pine, as they may be applied to local
purposes and have to that extent some commercial value. The
yellow pine may be considered as constituting the entire growth,
as shown on the map, between the Bitter Root valley and the
summit.
The areas indicated as bare on the map are not wholly so,
there being no portion of the Bitter Root Reserve entirely above
timber line, as everywhere, even on the loftiest summits and
396 BITTER ROOT FOREST RESERVE
most precipitous ridges, especially on the southern slopes, are
found straggling trees, but for the purpose of graphic illustra-
tion it has been represented as it has.
Along the crest the growth is very sparse, but as the project-
ing spurs reach out to the westward and attain lower altitudes
they are usually covered with a forest growth, except where their
sides are too precipitous to admit of vegetation. There are on
the western slopes of the Bitter Root mountains three primary
forest zones, namely, the subalpine fir, the white pine, and the
yellow pine. The subalpine-fir zone extends from the crest alti-
tudes to about 5,800 feet above sea-level and includes the white-
bark pine, the lodge-pole pine, the Engelmann spruce, the Lyall
larch, and the subalpine fir. The white pine zone has an ap-
proximate range from an altitude of 5,800 feet to about 2,000
feet, and includes the white fir, the lodge-pole pine, the Engel-
mann spruce, the cedar, and the yew. The yellow-pine zone
extends from elevations of 2,500 feet in the valleys to nearly
6,000 feet on the western and southern slopes, and to 4,500 on
the northern and eastern slopes, and includes the yellow pine,
the white fir, the hemlock spruce, the lodge-pole pine, the west-
ern birch, the paper birch, the balm of Gilead poplar, and the
aspen, besides various willows and alders. The distribution of
the growth in the subalpine zone is about the same as in the
similar zone east of the crest. The trees constituting the white-
pine zone are divided approximately into three equal portions,
the white fir forming one portion, the cedar the second, and the
lodge-pole pine and Engelmann spruce the third. The species of
trees occurring in the yellow-pine zone may be divided approx-
imately into two portions, the hemlock spruce constituting one
and the yellow pine and white fir the other, the former, however,
being about three times more abundant than the latter. From
the foregoing it will be observed that at least 98 per cent of the
trees in the Reserve are coniferous, the exceptions being a few
cottonwoods, maples, and various bushes bearing berries.
The most striking feature presented by this map is the large
portion of it that has been burned over, nearly all of it having
been visited at different times by fires and at least one-third of
the standing timber having been destroyed. The map indicates
clearly the burned zones, and an attempt has been made to show
by the percentage figures the proportion of the timber that has
been completely destroyed.
FOREST
BURNT
98 BITTER ROOT FOREST RESERVE
Yo
The foregoing illustration depicts a scene of which all Ameri-
cans should be ashamed. The aborigines held this region for
many ages as a sacred trust transmitted from generation to gen-
eration. They recognized its beauty and utility and did naught
to impair the grandeur of the one or the permanence of the
other. And what has the Anglo-Saxon done? Asa commu-
nity is visited by a devastating scourge, as a face is disfigured by
some foul disease, so have the forests been visited and disfigured
by him. Reaping where he has not sown and failing to restore
where he has destroyed, a noble heritage is slipping away through
carelessness and cupidity. A hunter or traveler leaves his camp-
fire unextinguished, a herder starts a fire in the fall that the
coarse grass may be burned and in the spring be replaced by a
tender growth which is more nutritious to his flock, the pros-
pector burns the undergrowth that the mineral-bearing rocks
may be uncovered, the result being that thousands of acres are
devastated.
Illustrations are presented showing groves of yellow pines,
cedars, and firs that have been undisturbed by fire, an area that
has been burned over, and a view of the crest of the Bitter Root
mountains.
The question may suggest itself as to why the area included
in the Bitter Root Reserve should be set aside from entry or settle-
ment. Three distinct reasons exist from a forest standpoint, and
there are other interests that would be incidentally subserved.
First. The numerous streams which have their sources in the
Reserve furnish the water supply for the irrigation of the Bitter
Root valley on the east, and could be turned to a profitable ac-
count for a similar purpose to the westward. Indeed, it has
been forcibly suggested that the possibility of irrigating the
extensive plains of southeastern Washington exists only in the
utilization of the Clearwater river for this purpose. ‘There is at
present considerable hydraulic mining in the Idaho portion of
the Reserve, and this industry is limited only by the amount of
available water supply, which, according to the testimony of the
miners, has been materially decreased since the forest fires have
become so extensive. It is safe to say that fully 98 per cent of
the Reserve is unfit for agricultural purposes on account of the
altitude and irregularity of the surface. The only possibilities
in this respect, or even for grazing, are in the numerous alpine
meadows; but it would be a dangerous experiment either to dis-
turb the surface of these meadows with a plow or to allow cattle
to occupy them extensively, as in either case they would lose
BITTER ROOT FOREST RESERVE 399
SUBALPINE FIR THICKET AND MEADOW ON MUSSEL SHELL CREEK
their peculiar sponge-like character, which makes possible the
retention of the water devosit. Thus it seems clear that the
reservation, if it were administered in such a manner as to pre-
vent or at least check forest fires and keep out herds of cattle
and sheep, would have a beneficial effect on the regimen of the
streams.
Second. An important purpose to be subserved would be the
prevention of the injudicious cutting of trees over large areas.
It is not proposed to prohibit cutting to a sufficient extent to
meet necessary demands, but to have it done under proper
supervision, so that the young and immature growth may be pro-
tected and the production utilized in an economical manner.
In other words, it is desired to provide for the handling of the
tree crop with the same prudence and foresight as any other
crop would be looked after.
Third. Large areas have been burned over, and it is a debt
due to posterity that the damage be repaired. This end can be
accomplished only by a systematic effort under proper direc-
tion. The Yellowstone National Park and the Yosemite Park
have for several years past been patrolled by troops of cavalry
of the U.S. Army, who have not only been able to keep watch
on the class of people to whom these fires are usually tracea-
ble, but, by going promptly to localities where smoke is visible,
have been able to extinguish with little exertion fires which, if
400 ATLANTIC ESTUARINE TIDES
left alone, would ina short while have devastated large areas.
In some European countries it has been found necessary in order
to produce certain results in reforestation to transport soil in
baskets by the hands of men to form a new covering for the
naked rock, so that vegetation may be reéstablished. It is not
probable that we shall ever be reduced to such extremities in
this country, but we should resist all influences that have a
tendency to produce such a condition.
Incidentally the game will be protected and the scenery pre-
served or restored to its original beauty. This section is the
natural home of the moose, elk, bear, deer, mountain goat, and
mountain sheep, but during the past season scarcely any of the
above were encountered and very little sign of their presence was
observed. The deer are killed in large numbers by commercial
hunters to bait bear traps. In one locality 120 bears were
trapped in two seasons, and it is considered a conservative esti-
mate that for each bear secured 1,000 pounds of game meat is
ordinarily used. The elk and the moose are nearly extermi-
nated, and the region which once attracted sportsmen from all
portions of the country, and also from Europe, has almost com-
pletely lost its attraction as a hunting ground.
[The foregoing article was presented at the Joint Session of the National Geographic
Society and the A. A. A. S., Boston, August 25, 1898. ]
ATLANTIC ESTUARINE TIDES*
By Marx 8. W. JEFFERSON
The tidal phenomena of a number of commercially important
estuaries on the Atlantic coast suggest a simple geographic classi-
fication.
There are two distinct tidal types, with corresponding types of
geography. Both are united in the Delaware. Ascending the
bay from the capes, a four-foot tide increases to six feet and falls
off in speed from 23 miles to 11 miles per hour. Ascending the
river, the range again diminishes from six feet to four feet, with
a speed varying irregularly between 7 and 15 miles. The geo-
vraphic types here are the bay, from the capes to Delaware City,
and the river above. The combined type corresponds to the
* Extract from Thesis in research course in Geography at Harvard University, under
Prof. W. M. Davis. Read at the Joint Session of the National Geographie Society and
the A. A. A. S., Boston, August 25, 1898.
ATLANTIC ESTUARINE TIDES 401
rias of northwestern Spain, tidal rivers emptying into tidal bays,
both resulting from the drowning of older river valleys in the
sea. Thesimple type isa valley cut in rocks of uniform texture,
and flares uniformly toward the sea.
While the Delaware furnishes a good illustration of the com-
bined type, the Chesapeake affords an exception of almost equal
interest.
The following table summarizes the facts for the Delaware:
DELAWARE TIDES
0 I II IIl IV Vv VI [Vit | VIL] IX | H. W. interval from capes.
0 23 16 11 14 15 11 10 i 13. | H. W. advance in last hour
| (miles).
4.6 | 6.0 6.2 6.3 6.2 6.1 5.4 5.6 5.1 4.1 | Mean tide range (feet).
|
|
h.m.|homs|hom.jhom\|hom.|h.m.|h.m.| he m.| he m.| hem. |
6 20/5 48/5 87/5 25/5 25/5 19|5 7)4 49|)4 43)3 55)! Duration of rise.
Co ON G4 2G ASH On Tan mON Tamu Galite el Ss |e 36
a
4
iS
bt
OD
Duration of fall.
The dotted lines on the map represent the positions of the pro-
eressing wave-front at successive even hours after it passes the
capes. They are numbered with Roman numerals to the right,
NUUI-S1
Go. “THE DELAWARE
NN
VI-5.4 ‘
\ \\ Ci
\ V-61 re 4.6
is a ie eink \ ° aS
\ as
/IN-6.2 cur
\ \\\ \ c ee
\ \
\ (1-6:
6 ‘
Ut
8
the feet of range being also given in Arabic numerals. T=
Trenton, P = Philadelphia, and the dots in the lower bay repre-
sent observation stations on shoals that enable us to ascertain
the convexity of the advancing wave-front. From the table, and
still more from the map, it appears that for the first three hours
the tide advances with decreasing speed—23 miles the first hour,
402 ATLANTIC ESTUARINE TIDES
16 miles the second, and 11 miles the third. During the same
period the mean tidal range is increasing from 4.6 feet to 6.8 feet.
These two characters are taken to define the bay type of tides:
(1) Progressive loss of speed \
up the bay.
(2) Increase of tidal range J : s!
Above Delaware City there is observed a steady falling off in the
range. The rate of progress is here somewhat irregular. ‘These
two characters define the river type of tide:
(1) Irregular advance, commonly 10 or 12 miles per hour.
(2) Decrease of tidal range.
The last two lines in the table indicate a feature common to both
types—the steepening of the front of the advancing wave, man-
ifested in the times by quicker rise and slower fall. Outside of
the estuaries, all along our Atlantic coast the times of rise and
fall are equal. While bay and river together go to make up the
geographic estuary, it may happen that one of the parts is miss-
ing, as with the Kennebec, which enters the sea by a narrow
fiord and has no bay, or the Penobscot, shown by its tides to be
wholly of the bay type. The Connecticut river has a sort of bay,
but so choked with sediments as to be tidally inefficient. The
Hudson enters the side of Raritan bay, both being good types of
their kind, but not parts of one geographic whole. Chesapeake
waters are anomalous.
The following are the ranges of the best illustrations in the area:
Bay. River.
Sta wren Ces.cyeccessnss sisesectcsesenschocencecunscescsweccsscen seeeoseatsee sees eeeeeeeeee 11’ to14’ | 14’ to 0.9’
SIL CIO] haa sscadtodencende aaoseceod sadoscodcscanboaconesenSuoqasece Habsandad usec. oo bodaddal boueccoonnq0udoed 26” to 6”
IPON ODSCObi isis ois aces sed hese ooces seen etesncasulncwes aceon ce ovens sajaenertenc ccc sec ee eran GY WO BY © llecasencsescooocecc
KK CNM CW OC a wacscaeeces ios slacsenonenvonsisaecs sje cies cee one nee ine Nusacuas nicaaee ama eeee Eat ONT Once aaeet ects cees 8.3/ to 4.3/
(CFO TATA EXEUTKOTILD apncce0qdoncce HooGeoc0000do0s6d 05810 500600 990000800008 Gakdeaceaa600q000000Cd08 | oaSoootdESnDEdEEGH 3.6/ to 0.8/
8 FBI Yo 0s soqcoaatocadootaodeSoobaaadcbonca sbaascoudancaaccse09 aooccadeRo0R000ne0sH0 Gue00d cogand || ooooSbonbo0qq00q00 4.6/ to 2.3/
1372 epee son cocECCOc SDC cEE cH eOCOFEE ECE OSE BOE CBee pO bare Kan Bec Subceo no ueRepobSSBobEdad ALOU CODA Cee. wcaccaeres
IDYSIER WEIR. Scoc ann dno noncoscoddocno TB bon eba0pOaAcende DedcOAOTOoHIDadGOOAAEdDOECHEABOD soCecu8 4.6’ to 6.3/ | 6.8/ to 4.1/
CHESAPEAKE TIDES
The Chesapeake is a drowned river valley into which drowned
branch valleys pour abundant waters. Deep water is found
within, yet the communication with the ocean is narrow and shal-
\\ ,
\ N
\
ANS x \ \ .
/ 7 & (YS SS
a“
Wes
L
\>
N
‘\
.
1 > ;
Air *~< . NANO
: r -
Y)
a
; a S > > Oy \ x J
VG \ \5 & F = \ \S ) WS ae \Y \ BBQ
\ Ue aN \Y Le {
S \\i\ \\ NS \ AS \2 A
WY s
. Y : : \
ei
ANN
O\\h
TIDAL HOU
| CHESAPEAK
CrIESAPREAKE (IDES
404 ATLANTIC ESTUARINE TIDES
low. This constriction toward its mouth is shared by a number
of the tributaries. The result is, in the main bay, a tide rather
of the river or sound type. For two-thirds its length the range
uniformly diminishes from 2.6 feet at the capes to 0.8 feet near
Annapolis, a distance of 120 miles. So in the lower courses of
the greater tributaries, the James, the Rappahannock, and the
Potomac, ranges decrease or waver, as may be noted in the accom-
panying diagram, The rate of high-water advance is also irreg-
ular, as appears on the map; but the upper course of the bay
and larger rivers and the whole course of the smaller streams
have bay tides as far as ranges are concerned—i. e., the tide range
increases upstream. Though this is not accompanied by the pro-
gressive retardation of the true
Sassafras, hay tide, it makes the Chesa-
peake waters present a curious
inversion. Ranges of the river
type are interposed between bay
tides and the ocean. Two-thirds
of the Chesapeake is rather river
than bay, and two-thirds of the
Potomac is rather bay than
river. The narrowing and shoal-
ing at the bay-mouth, imitated
in the tributaries, explains the
anomaly. Thus it happens that
a range of 2.6 feet at the capes
diminishes up the bay, but again
increases to 4 feet at Richmond and 3 feet at Washington. The
rate of progress of the tide-wave is*here, as commonly, 10 to
12 miles-:per hour. When one tide is just above Washington
another is entering the bay from the Atlantic, and high water
reaches Havre de Grace, on the Susquehanna, as the following
high water enters the mouth of the Rappahannock. The wave-
front shows the usual steepening with advance. At Richmond
the duration of rise is 4 h.25 m.; at Fredericksburg, 4 h.19 m. ;
at Washington, 5h. 45m. Port Deposit, on the Susquehanna,
has the phenomenon of steeper back than front. A similar
aspect is given at Galveston and perhaps at Falmouth by in-
terference and a special development of the diurnal wave.
In every river an ascending wave must finally disappear. Of
the Chesapeake rivers only the Elk shows this. The Pocomoke
probably does; but we have no observations above Snow Hill,
DIAGRAM
OF RANGES
Patuxent
Pocomoke
Rappahannock
COO
ATLANTIC ESTUARINE TIDES 405
and so far the ranges are still increasing. The larger rivers are
interrupted by rapids at the fall line before the ranges diminish,
usually close to the highest station observed.
ST LAWRENCE TIDES
The St Lawrence is an excellent example of a tidal estuary,
and it is to be desired that more and more reliable data may
some day be forthcoming for its study. For the present purpose
we must exclude the portion of the so-called river between Pointe
des Monts and Anticosti, where the tides are unexplained. The
“bay” and river remaining are 283 miles long and 40 miles wide
at the mouth. When high water has reached Three Rivers a
second high water appears at the east end of Anticosti. The bay
includes the waters between Pointe des Monts and Isle Royale,
whence it is river to Three Rivers. The U.S. Tide Tables give
22 stations here, from which a table has been prepared as before,
St Lawrence Tides
0 I Il III IV V | VI | VII | VIII) IX | H.W. interval from Pointe
des Monts.
0 125 30 26 21 23 14 17 13 14 | H. W. advanee in last hour
(miles).
9.2 | 12.9 | 13.3 | 14.4 | 13.9] 13.3 | 11.0 8 3 2 | Mean tide range (feet).
h.m.\h.m.|h.m.| hem.) h.m.| hem.) hem.) hem.| he m.| hem.
G 2S Ha) G 2a SB BO Ty IO Gy IO) Gy 901) 5)
Ou
Duration of rise.
6 5/6 30)6 38)6 52)6 55)7 14/7 15)7 15)7 18/7 20) Duration of fall.
During the first four hours the tide travels up the bay with
lessening speed, while the tide. range steadily augments ; then
the advance is irregular and the range diminishes. At Three
Rivers, the head of observations, the rise of tide lasts 5 h.; the
fall, 7 h. 25 m.—not a strong steepening of the wave front after
283 miles of travel. This may be due to the great depth of the
St Lawrence. The Penobscot is in these respects comparable:
The Bay of Chaleurs, a hundred miles long and twenty miles
wide at the mouth, affords a good bay, the ranges mounting up
from 4 feet to 7.6 feet and high water being delayed. ‘There are
but nine stations in the tide tables, which rather hint at the facts
than elucidate them. It is clear that the tide-wave advances
with its front looped deeply into the bay, as is probable with the
St Lawrence and all deep bays.
406 ATLANTIC ESTUARINE TIDES
ST JOHN RIVER TIDES
Our data here are all for mean springs of July and August,
being due to a study by A. Willmer Duff.* In putting these
data into the usual form, the time intervals have been taken
from Indiantown. Although the tides are of a good river type,
there is a unique feature in the tidal falls at the river’s mouth.
The entrance to the Bay of Fundy at the city of St John is by an
estuary five miles wide in deep water. Spring-tide ranges at the
city are of 27 feet ; time of rise,5 h. 40 m.; fall,6h.45m. Back
of the city “the waters of the river, previously occupying a
channel remarkable for its extent and breadth, become abruptly
confined in a narrow gorge [which] has its immediate origin in
a band of pre-Cambrian rock crossing the stream obliquely and
forming a barrier, over which the waters of the river and of the
bay flow alternately. From the relative levels of the harbor and
river and the known rise of the tide, it would appear that the
inward fall over the barrier at the suspension bridge is from nine
to ten feet; but as this inward fall is wholly confined to the last
third of the flood-tide, attaining its maximum with the latter
and again rapidly receding, the interval during which the river
is effectively resisted is greatly limited, not exceeding three or
four hours out of every twelve. Notwithstanding the limitation,
however, the effect is so far to set back the stream as to produce,
except in time of freshet, an alternation of upward and down-
ward currents, accompanied by a corresponding change of level,
which is appreciable even at Fredericton, a distance of over 80
miles from the mouth, resulting at low water, in a rise and fall
of not less than 10 inches.”; Four times in the twenty-four
hours there are ten-minute periods of level water,j and then
steamboats can safely pass.2 At very high freshets in April and
May there is no inward fall, as the tide does not rise high enough.|
There has been some discussion as to the propriety of calling
the oscillations that result in the St John river tides. Mr Duff's
investigation, however, seems decisive. ‘The oscillations are
tidal in shape, period, and progression, and are visibly born of
the Fundy tides in the Narrows; they are therefore tides. The
distances in the table accompanying are from Indiantown, just
upstream from the Narrows; the ranges in inches.
* Bulletin of Nat. Hist. of New Brunswick, vol. xv, 1897.
+L. W. Bailey, Roy. Soc. Can: Trans. 1882, p. 281.
tJ. W. Bailey, St John River, p. 135.
2 Ward’s Account of the River St John, p. 17.
| Lockwood’s Nova Scotia, p. 97.
ATLANTIC ESTUARINE TIDES 407
St John River Tides
0 I II Ill IV V VI | VII | H. W. interval from Indiantown.
0 19 LO 8 8 10 10 10 H. W. advance in last hour (miles).
26 15 | 11.5 | 10.3 | 9.7 8.6 7.7 6.2 | Mean tide range (inches),
h.m |\|h.m.|h. m.\hom.\h.m.|h.m.| he m.| he m.
5 40/5 16}5 16/5 16]5 17|5 17|}5 18]4 48] Duration of rise.
6 45/7 9|7 9|7 9/7 8|7 8|7 7|7 37| Duration of fall.
At Fredericton, over 70 nautical miles from Indiantown, the
mean levels are 14 feet 4 inches above mean sea-level. The rail-
road levelings are used in this determination and may be open
to some doubt; but Young asserts that tide runs 100 feet above
sea in the Amazon,* and Airy f says the same thing happens in
the Firth of Clyde, and, moreover, should happen from theory.
As the wave progresses upstream 10 miles an hour, it is not to be
supposed that the water poured inward from the Bay of Fundy
travels upstream to cause the rise of water. The water is merely
set oscillating. The Indiantown tides are themselves two hours
later than the tides at St John, and the five-inch wave that
reaches Springhill, 78 nautical miles upstream, spends over nine
hours in the transit. Salt water is said to be detected 48 miles
up the river, which is surprising.
PENOBSCOT TIDES
Penobscot bay has its outer waters so full of islands that the
tidal bay must be counted to have its mouth from Camden to
Castine. Thence to Bangor the ranges mount up steadily—9.7,
9.8, 10.2, 10.6, 12.0, 18.1 feet in 26 miles. The times indicate a
clear retardation, though the series is short. Tide passes from
Matinicus, the outer island, to Bangor in two hours. Above
Bangor the river part is cut off by falls, and no river part is
present. Only depth of water and freedom from sediment can
allow such tides in a narrow channel.
KENNEBEC TIDES
The tide progresses from the sea to Augusta (45 miles) in four
hours, with somewhat irregular speed and diminishing range.
* General Astronomy, p. 258.
+ Eneyel. Metropolitana, vol. ili, p. 338.
408 ATLANTIC ESTUARINE TIDES
Kennebec Tides
| | |
I II III | IV | H. W. interval from mouth.
| |
i—!
S lon
Or
is
Or
LGR eas | H. W. advance in last hour (miles).
8.5 | 6.9 5.5 | 5.1 4.5 | Mean tide range (feet).
h.m.|h.m.| he m.| hem | h. m. |
6235 575) 53 /o 365 1 | Duration of rise.
6 2/6 28/6 32/6 49 |7 24 | Duration of fall. 5
Thames river, Connecticut, seems to have a small but typical
bay tide. There are but two observation stations.
CONNECTICUT TIDES
The Connecticut has its mouth in the sand-bar region of the
Middle bay, and itself discharges no small quantity of sediments,
that make its exit to the sound an embarrassed one. ‘Tide pro-
gresses up to Hartford (43 miles) in 4 hours and 48 minutes, with
fairly constant speed, the ranges steadily diminishing.
Connecticut River Tides
0 I II Hil IV V H. W. interval from sound.
0 9 9 V5) 7.5 9 | H. W. advance in last hour (miles).
BH |h Boyl 2.0 | 1.4 1.0 | 0.6 | Mean tide range (feet).
h.m.| hom.) hom.) he m.\ he m.\ hem.
6 18) 5 5 18|4 54|4 43|)4 8} Duration of rise.
8 17] Duration of fall.
OG: 29 ie a Billy ee
The stream is narrow, from a quarter to three-quarters of a
mile, and shallow. The local geography affords a rational ex-
planation for the lack of the “‘ bay.” The lower course of the
river is cut in rocks so much harder than the upper course that
the lower valley was gorge-like before drowning. ‘The departure
from the 77a type is in the lack of uniformity of rock texture
along the river.
HUDSON TIDES
The Hudson also flows in a narrow gorge in its lower course
and has no bay nor bay tide. Nearly as narrow as the Con-
necticut, but deep, it allows a more rapid transmission of the
tide wave. The 141 miles to Albany are traveled in 10 hours
and 8 minutes.
ATLANTIC ESTUARINE TIDES 409
Hudson River Tides
I II III | IV V VI | VIL | VIII) 1x xX XI | H. W. interval from
Sandy Hook.
19 15 | 1914 | 21% | 16% | 114% | 9% 10 WA GEA 8 H. W. advance in last
hour (miles).
4.6 4.2 3.6 3.3 33.03 3.3 3.4 3.2 3.0 2.9 D4 Nee ecevene Mean tide range
(feet).
' 49 5 4915 44/5 47/5 43/5 27/5 19/4 57)4 52/4 42)......... Duration of rise.
eeeces Duration of fall.
The two curves below, which I owe to the courtesy of the
Superintendent of the Coast Survey, show 48 hours of continuous
observation at Albany and Sandy-Hook. Both are on the same
scale, and they well illustrate the extremes met ina river. The
Albany tide, figure A, shows the characteristic steep front of
waves that have traveled far in shallow water. The Hudson gets
aid in its struggle with coastwise sands at Sandy Hook from the
constant westward flow of water from Long Island sound through
Hast river and out to sea.*
adn ee ee
B
In closing this examination of estuary tides it appears that
they vary from the type in our area only as their estuaries vary
from the type of a river valley, narrow above and wide below,
partly drowned in the sea. .The commonest modification of this
geographic type on the Atlanti¢ coast results from the tendency
of coastwise sands to close the bay mouths. ‘This agency is evi-
dent at the mouths of the Hudson and Delaware; it gives the
Chesapeake tides of a river type and encloses the mouths of the
drowned valleys further south, forming the sounds in which
lunar tides are less significant than the effects of prevailing
winds.
* H. Mitchell: Ann. Rep, U.S. Coast Survey, 1886.
THE FOREST CONDITIONS AND STANDING TIMBER
Oe Wale SWANS Oe WW ANSIMN GON &
By Henry GANNETT,
U. S. Geological Survey
During the past year I have been actively engaged in col-
lecting information regarding the forest resources of this state,
one of the richest in timber and the state in which the lumber
industry is most active west of the Mississippi river. The infor-
mation which has been collected consists of the reports of tim-
ber cruisers, showing the total amount of timber contained in
the areas examined and its distribution among the five species
recognized by the lumbermen of this part of the country—7. e.,
red fir (Pseudotsuga taxifolia), Sitka spruce (Picea sitchensis),
hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana), cedar (Thuja plicata), and yellow
pine (Pinus ponderosa).
The figures, as they came to me, are by townships, showing
the area cruised within each township and the amount of timber
of each species. The figures are accompanied by maps, show-
ing in considerable detail the areas which have been logged,
burned, or are naturally devoid of timber, and those which are
still timbered. Altogether I have in the state of Washington
actual cruisings of 1,679,402 acres, or 2,600 square miles, which
are pretty thoroughly scattered over the state. In addition to
this are the examinations made of the Washington Reserve, an
area of about 6,000 square miles, made during the past season.
The cruisings, although scattered widely, are much more abun-
dant and cover the area much more closely west of the Cascade
range, in the most important timbered portion of the state, than
east of those mountains.
The forests of Washington cover the Cascade range and the
entire country west of it to the Pacific coast, with the exception
of a few high summits of the Olympics and of the Cascades.
They extend eastward along the northern part of the state to
its east boundary, covering all the country southward as far as
the Columbia river, and extend southward along the east bound-
*Presented at the Joint Session of the National Geographic Society and the A. A.
A. S., Boston, August 25, 1898.
410
FOREST CONDITIONS OF THE STATE OF WASHINGTON 411
ary in a narrow fringe to its southeast corner, where the forests
of the Blue mountains cover a considerable area. Altogether I
estimate that out of the total area of the state 47,700 square
miles, or 71 per cent, are wooded. All this is not, however,
covered with merchantable timber, inasmuch as much of it is
inferior in character, and other large areas have been cut or
burned and are now growing up again.
From the data collected I estimate the total amount of standing
timber in the state to be in the neighborhood of 187,000,000,000
feet, of which amount more than two-thirds, or 187,000.000,000
feet, are found west of the crest of the Cascade range, the re-
mainder, 60,000,000,000, being upon its east slope and in the
northern and eastern portions of the state. This is the amount
as estimated upon the basis of the practice of the lumbermen of
the west coast, where the standard for lumber is extremely high
and the practice in cutting very wasteful. For instance, in this
region no tree is cut unless it will furnish at least two sticks each
20 feet in length, and each of which will square 15 inches, or
have a diameter on the trunk of at least 2 feet, nor is anything
used which is at all knotty, only clear lumber being cut. The
remainder of the tree, after selecting the parts above described,
is left to rot or to add to the conflagrations which sweep through
the region every summer.
The forests west of the higher parts of the Cascade range are
composed of 62 per cent of red fir, 16 per cent of cedar, 14 per
eent of hemlock, and 8 per cent of spruce. The fir is found
most abundantly in the depression between the Cascade and
Coast ranges, where the forest is almost entirely composed of it.
Its range extends up the mountains to an altitude of about 3,000
feet, where its place is taken by hemlock and cedar. Toward
the Pacific coast the proportion of fir diminishes and its place
is taken by spruce, which is most abundant immediately on the
coast, and by cedar. Hemlock is found mainly upon the moun-
tain slopes, which it climbs to a much greater altitude than fir.
Yellow pine is found only east of the crest of the Cascades,
but throughout this region it is the predominant growth. At
considerable altitudes its place is taken, to a large extent, by
lodge-pole pine (Pinus murrayana), which throughout this region
is regarded as of no possible use, although farther east, where
timber is scarce, it is considered to be of value.
The portion of Washington west of the crest of the Cascades,
concerning which I have the fullest data, is one in which lum-
412 THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION FOR
bering has been carried on very extensively for nearly a genera-
tion, and the results of these extensive operations, coupled with
the terrible fires which devastate the region, are of much inter-
est. From the maps which have been obtained I find that of
the accessible part of this region—i. e., those parts which are re-
garded by the present lumber practice as containing available
timber—not less than 45 per cent have been cleared, either by
cutting or fire, within recent times. About 23 per cent of this
entire area has been logged ; about 22 per cent has been burned.
Presumably the amount or timber cut and burned and its value
are at least proportional to the areas, and therefore it would fol-
low that not very much less than one-half of the available lum-
ber in this part of Washington has been destroyed since its
occupation by whites. We cannot complain of the cutting, pro-
viding it is done with some sort of economy, but no condemna-
tion can be too severe for the carelessness which allows such an
enormous amount of wealth to be destroyed by fires.
AMERICAN ASSOCIATION FOR THE ADVANCEMENT
OR SCIENCE
The Fiftieth Anniversary Meeting of the American Association
for the Advancement of Science was held in Boston, August 22
to 27. As was anticipated, the return of the Association to the
city of its birth for the celebration of its semi-centennial was
the occasion of an unusually large attendance, it excited more
than ordinary local interest, and resulted in a very large acces-
sion to the membership.
Of the 330 or more papers presented, many contained im-
portant contributions to the different sciences. ‘Those of especial
geographic interest were for the most part read in Section E,
which held a joint session with the National Geographic Society
on August 25. On that occasion Dr Marcus Baker, cartographer
to the Venezuela Boundary Commission, discussed the Venezuela-
British-Guiana Boundary Dispute; Prof. W J McGee, Vice-Pres-
ident of the National Geographic Society, traced the Geographic
Development of the United States; Mr Mark S. W. Jefferson ex-
plained the peculiar characteristics of Atlantic Estuarine Tides,
and the Statistician of the Department of Agriculture set forth
the Considerations that have governed recent Movements of
Population. The following papers were also presented: ‘“Some
THE ADVANCEMENT OF SCIENCE 413
New Lines of Work in Government Forestry,’ by Mr. Gifford
Pinchot; ‘“‘The Forestry Conditions of the State of Washing-
ton,” by Mr Henry Gannett; ‘“‘ The Bitter Root Forest Reserve,”
by Mr Richard U. Goode, and “ The Five Civilized Tribes and
the Topographic Survey of Indian Territory,” by Mr Charles H.
Fitch. Of these various addresses and papers four are published
in the present number of this journal.
Among the papers read at other times or before other sections
and of interest to geographers may be mentioned the following:
Before the Section of Geology and Geography, “ Geography and
Resources of the Siberian Island of Sakhalin,” by Prof. Benj.
Howard, of London; “‘ The Development of the Ohio River,”
by Prof. W.G. Light, and ‘ The Continental Divide in Nicaragua,”
by Mr C. Willard Hayes; before the Section of Anthropology,
“The Maori of New Zealand; His History and Country,” by
Hon. Hugh H. Lusk, of London; “Origin of the Confederacy
of the Five Nations,” by Mr Ch. H. Henning; “ The Disappear-
ance of the Cliff Dwellers,” by M. Desire Charnay. of Paris ;
“The Smith Sound Eskimo,” by Mr A. L. Kroeber; “ The Phil-
ippine Islands and their People” and “ Moros, or Malay Pirates
of the Southern Philippines,” by Prof. Dean C. Worcester; and
before the Section of Economic Science and Statistics, ** Cuba :
Past, Present, and Future” and “ Nicaragua and the Canal,” by
Dr Wolfred Nelson ; “ The Development of Colonial Policy,” by
Prof. John Davidson; “The Progress of the Maritime Com-
merce of the World during the past Fifty Years,” by Dr EH. L,
Corthell, C. E., and ‘‘ Cuba,” by Prof. Robert T. Hill.
It is much to be regretted that at several sessions the large
number of papers to be presented precluded all possibility of
discussion, and it may be doubted whether it would not contrib-
ute to the usefulness of future meetings if some limitation were
imposed by the Committee upon the number and length of the
papers to be submitted.
Not even this brief narrative of the proceedings of the Asso-
ciation in one single direction should be permitted to go with-
out reference to the admirable arrangements made by the Local
Committee, to the generous hospitality of the citizens of Boston,
Cambridge, Salem, Lexington, and other places, and to the ex-
treme gratification it afforded the Association to have occupying
the presidential chair its indefatigable secretary for 25 years,
Dr Frederic Ward Putnam, the distinguished Peabody Professor
of American Archeology and Ethnology in Harvard University.
Js Jal,
PROCEEDINGS OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
SOCIETY, SESSION 1897-’98
Special Meeting, April 29, 1898.—Mr W J McGeein the chair. Professor
J. L. Ewell, of Howard University, gave an illustrated lecture on Old
Germany before the Reformation.
Special Meeting, May 2, 1898.—Myr W J. McGee in thechair. Professor
Josiah Royce gave an illustrated lecture on The Pacific Coast, particu-
larly describing the influence of geographic environment on the early in-
habitants.
Regular Meeting, May 6, 1898.—Mr G. K. Gilbert in the chair. Mr
N. H. Darton gave an illustrated address on the geologic and geographic
environment of Harpers Ferry, and Major H. E. Alvord, C. E., described
the principal events which occurred there during the civil war.
Special Meeting, May 9, 1898.—Mr W J McGee in the chair. Mr Wil-
liam E. Curtis gave a description of Porto Rico, and Col. F. F. Hilder
spoke on the Philippine Islands, both addresses being illustrated with
maps and views.
Annual Excursion and Field Meeting, May 14, 1898.—An excursion, post-
poned from May 7 on account of unfavorable weather, was made to Har-
pers Ferry, leaving Washington by special train at 8.50a.m. The day’s
proceedings included a field meeting, at which addresses were delivered
by Mr W J McGee and Col. H. C. Rizer, and the visiting of the different
points of geographic and historic interest for which the district is famous.
Annual Meeting, May 20, 1898.—Vice-President A. W. Greely in the
chair. The report of the Recording Secretary was read and approved.
The report of the Treasurer was presented, and referred to an auditing
committee, consisting of Prof. Willis lL. Moore, Mr- Weston Flint, and
Col. H. C. Rizer, after it should be brought down to the end of the fiscal
year expiring May 31.
Dr Alexander Graham Bell, Mr Henry Gannett, Gen. A. W. Greely,
U.S. A., Mr John Hyde, Prof. W J McGee, and Mr F. H. Newell were
reelected members of the Board of Managers.
The amendments to the By-Laws, presented in writing at the meeting
on April 22, were taken up and read section by section. After debate
and a slight amendment to article 6, section 4, they were adopted by a
two-thirds vote of the members present, the By-Laws, as approved, be-
ing as follows:
Articte I.—Name.
The name of this Society is ‘Tie National GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY.’
ArricLe ILl.—Object.
The object of this Society is the increase and diffusion of geographic
knowledge.
ArticLe II1.—Membership.
Section 1. The members of this Society shall be persons interested in
414
THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY 415
geographic science. There may be three classes of members—active,
corresponding, and honorary. :
Section 2. Active members only shall be members of the corporation
and may vote and hold office.
Srcrion 3. Persons residing at a distance from the District of Columbia
may become corresponding members.
Sucrion 4. Persons who have attained eminence by the promotion of
geographic science may be elected honorary members.
Srcrron 5. The election of members shall be entrusted to the Board of
Managers.
Srcrion 6. Corresponding members may be transferred to active mem-
bership, and active members to corresponding membership, by the Board
of Managers.
ArvicLe 1V:—Officers.
Srcrion 1. The administration of the Society shall be entrusted to a
Board of Managers composed of eighteen members, six of whom shall be
elected by the Society at each annual meeting to serve for three years, or
until their successors are elected. A majority of the votes cast shall be
necessary for election.
Secrion 2. The Board of Managers shall elect annually from their own
number a President, a Vice-President, a Treasurer, a Recording Secre-
tary, and a Corresponding Secretary.
Srcrion 3. The President shall preside at the meetings of the Society
and of the Board of Managers, or shall delegate this duty to the Vice-
President or other member of the Board. The President and Recording
Secretary shall sign all written contracts and obligations of the Society.
Srcrion 4. In the absence of the President his duties shall devolve on
the Vice-President.
Srecrion 5. The Treasurer shall have charge of the funds of the Society,
under the direction of the Board of Managers, and shall make collections
and disbursements, and render an annual report; and his accounts shall
be audited by a committee of the Society, not members of the Board,
annually and at such other times as the Board may direct.
Srcrion 6. The Recording Secretary shall record the proceedings of the
Society and of the Board of Managers, and make an annual report. The
Corresponding Secretary. shall conduct correspondence on behalf of the
Society.
Secrion 7. The Board of Managers shall fill vacancies arising in the
Board.
Secrion 8. Absence of a member of the Board of Managers from five
successive Board meetings may, in the discretion of the Board, be con-
sidered equivalent to resignation.
ArtTIcLE V.—Committees.
Section 1. The committees of the Society and of the Board of Managers
shall be appointed by the President, except when otherwise provided by
resolution. The President shall be a member ex officio of every committee
Srcrion 2. There shall be Standing Committees on Publication, Com-
munications, Admissions, Research, and Finance, whose chairmen shall
416 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
be members of the Board of Managers. These committees shall be ap-
pointed at the beginning of each fiscal year to serve until their successors
are designated.
ArticLE VI.—Dues.
Section 1. The annual dues of active members shall be five dollars, of
corresponding members two dollars.
Section 2. The fiscal year of the Society shall begin on the first day of
June. The annual dues of new members shall be payable within thirty
days after election. The dues of members elected in April or May shall
be credited to the following year.
Secrion 3. Annual dues may be commuted and life membership ac-
quired by the payment at one time of fifty dollars.
Sucrion +. Members in arrears shall not be entitled to vote at the an-
nual meeting, and members two years in arrears shall be dropped from
the roll.
ArticLte VII.—Meetings.
Srcrion 1. Regular meetings of the Society shall be held on alternate
Fridays from November until May.
Srcrion 2. Special meetings may be called by the President.
Srcrron 3. The annual meeting shall be the last regular meeting in
May.
Secrion. 4. Twenty-five active members shall constitute a quorum.
Section 5. Regular meetings of the Board of Managers shall be held on
the same days as the regular meetings of the Society ; special meetings
may be held at the call of the President or on notice signed by five mem-
bers of the Board.
ArticLe VIIL.— Publications.
The Society shall publish a journal or periodical under the title, THE
NarionaL GroGrapHic Magazine, which shall be sent to all members
of the Society not in arrears, and may be placed on sale.
ARTICLE 1X.—Amendments.
These By-Laws may be amended by a two-thirds vote of the members
present at any regular meeting, provided the proposed amendments are
reported by the Board of Managers, and provided that printed notice
thereof has been sent to all active members of the Society not less than
three nor more than thirty days before the meeting.
ELECTION OF Orricrrs.—At a meeting of the Board of Managers, held
June 3, officers for the ensuing year were elected as follows: President,
Dr Alexander Graham Bell; Vice-President, Prof. W J McGee, Treas-
urer, Mr Henry Gannett; Recording Secretary, Mr F. H. Newell; Cor-
responding Secretary, Miss Eliza Ruhamah Scidmore.
Exections.—New members have been elected as follows:
May 6.—H. E. Orsborn, 8S. W. McCallie.
June 3.—Mrs C. Atwater Day, Hon. Lewis E. Payson, W. W. Burdette,
Rev. Charles D. Kreider.
June 24.—J. B. Bottineau, H. Hayden Sands, S. J. Caswell, M. D.
July 18.—Walter E. Colwell, Eugene La Grove, Dr J. ©. Gordon, G.
Shelby Crump.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
Oe
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CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RY.
HE F. F. V. LIMITED is one of the finest trains hauled over any railway track in America. It runs
solid between Cincinnati and New York, the route from Washington being over the Pennsylvania
system. It has every modern convenience and appliance, and the dining-car service has no superior if
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One of the most delightful rides in all the route is that through the New River valley. The
mountains are just low enough to be clad with verdure to the very top, and in the early spring every
variety of green known to the mixer of colors.can be seen, while the tones in autumn take on all the
range from brown to scarlet.
These facts should be borne in mind by the traveler between the Hast and the West.
H. W. FULLER, Gen/. Pass. Agent, Washington, D. C.
OF course you expect to go there this summer. Let
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the return portion of your ticket reads via the
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made in Union Station, Portland, for Puget Sound
cities and the east, via Northern Pacific.
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TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM
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With the Co-operation of Eminent Magneticians
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subjects, such as Earth Currents, Auroras, Atmospheric Electricity, etc., entered on its third
volume. The hearty co-operation extended by the workers in this promising field of investigation, as
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Future numbers will contain:
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WILLIAM H. DALL
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HERBERT G. OGDEN
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THE
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PRESIDENT
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HENRY GANNE”
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TREASURER_
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CorRESPONDING SECRETARY
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VOL. IX, 1898, PL. 13
NAT. GEOG. MAG.
National Geographic Magazine
Vout. 1X OCTOBER, 1898 No. 10
LAKE CHELAN
By Henry GANNETT,
Chief Geographer, U. S. Geological Survey
To most readers, especially those of the East, this title conveys
little information, forit is an almost unknown lake, in an almost
unknown region. It les in the northwestern part of the state
of Washington, upon the eastern slope of the Cascade range, its
lower end being near Columbia river, into which it is drained ;
thence it stretches northwestward in a long, winding ribbon, far
up toward the heart of the range. Into the head of the lake
flows Stehekin river, whose sources are in Cascade pass, at the
summit of Cascade range. The river has numerous branches,
all of which head in high, snowy mountains, among small ela-
ciers, and it consequently brings a considerable volume of water
to the lake.
In the northern part of Washington the Cascade range con-
sists of a broad and extremely rugged mass of granite mountains,
whose highest summits are between 10,000 and 11,000 feet in al-
titude. High up in the heads of the gorges and at the foot of
the peaks are. many small glaciers, the remains of others, much
larger, which in times past extended far down the present stream
valleys, filling them to great depths with streams of ice. Evi-
dences of these are present in all the valieys and gorges of this
part of the Cascade range. The occupation of these gorges by
glaciers is so recent that in many of them the subsequent work
of the streams by which they are now occupied has produced
but trifling results. Only in a few places are evidences of ex-
tensive stream erosion seen. ;
29
418 LAKE CHELAN
The bed of Lake Chelan and its principal tributary, Stehekin
river, together with the branches of that river, were at one time
filled by a vast glacial system, extending from the crest of the
Cascades southeastward nearly to Columbia river. The glacier
was nearly 100 miles long, and when it was in its prime the ice
must have been several thousand feet in thickness.
MAP OF LAKE CHELAN AND VICINITY, IN THE STATE OF WASHINGTON, 1898
A glacier is a river of ice, and it behaves almost precisely as a
river of water does. Its effects upon its channel are almost pre-
cisely similar to those of a river upon its channel, excepting in
the fact that allits operations are on a vastly greater scale. The
channel of a river may be measured by yards or hundreds of
yards, while that of a glacier is measured in miles. The depth
eas
LAKE CHELAN 419
of a river may be a few feet only or a few scores of feet ; that of
a glacier may be thousands of feet. It is this greater size, vol-
ume, and weight which makes glacial ice behave like water. In
such large masses ice is plastic, accommodating itself to inequal-
ities of its bed, flowing with some freedom, spreading out and
contracting, much as water does.
A word of caution must here be interpolated. The channel
of a river, in which its water flows, must not be confused with
its valley, which it drains. The above comparison refers to the
channel of a river, not to its valley.
. Glaciers in mountain regions commonly head in amphithea-
ters or cirques—basins lying directly at the heads of canons,
under the shadow of the summit cliffs. An amphitheater is
surrounded on three sides by vertical walls or steep slopes, down
which the ice and snow slide in avalanches, accumulating in
the bottom. The effect is precisely hke that of a waterfall.
The falling snow and ice dig a hollow or depression at the foot
of the steep descent just as water does. Such amphitheaters
are found at the heads of all glacial gorges in high mountains,
and today are found to contain small alpine lakes in place of
the ice which once occupied them. From its head in the amphi-
theater the glacier moves down the gorge, scouring and cutting
the bottom and sides as it travels. The ends of the mountain
spurs are planed off instead of being trimmed to sharp, angular
points, as is done by streams in gorges cut by them. If the
bottom of the canon be uneven, if it contain abrupt elevations
and depressions, the glacier flows over them as water would
flow over similar obstacles in, its channel, gradually cutting
them away. Where the descent becomes abruptly steeper the
ice, in bending to follow the surface, is commonly cracked, form-
ing a network of crevasses, making travel over its surface very
difficult and dangerous.
Where the main glacier is joined by a branch, the bed of the
branch is commonly found to be at a higher level than the bed
of the main glacier, because being larger and heavier the main
glacier has greater cutting power; indeed, in many cases the
beds of small branches are hundreds, or even thousands, of feet
higher than that of the main glacier to which they are tribu-
tary. The parallelism between the glacier and the river in their
channels is further illustrated by this fact. The surface of the
ice in the main glacier and in the branch must have been at the
same level, although the bottoms, as stated above, differ greatly
420 LAKE CHELAN
in elevation. So it is with a river at the point of junction of
branches. The surface of the water must be practically at the
same level in all cases, but the bottoms of the channels differ
by the difference in depth of the streams at their point of junc-
tion. This fact affords us a measure of the minimum thickness
of the ice at any place. It cannot have been less than the ver-
tical distance between the bed of the main glacier and that of
the tributary, and, indeed, must in all cases have been greater.
owing to the thickness of the tributary.
LAKE CHELAN, AT THE NARROWS
To extend the comparison between a river and a glacier, it
may be added that the central portion of the glacier flows faster
than the bottom and sides, as they are retarded by friction, just
as in the case of a stream. This is demonstrated by the gradu-
ally increasing curvature of the lines crossing the glacier, such
as transverse lines of dirt or crevasses. In the upper portion of
the glacier these may be straight, or nearly so, but lower down
become more and more curved, with the convexity downward.
A glacier is constantly receiving upon its surface rock, gravel,
LAKE CHELAN 421
etc., which fall upon it from its walls. In its long journey from
its source to its melting point, a journey which may occupy
many years, large quantities of such material accumulate, and
it naturally falls mainly upon the edges of the glacier, forming
lateral moraines. Where two branches join, the two lateral mo-
raines on the inside join and form a medial moraine, and thus
in a complicated glacier system the main glacier below the junc-
tion of a number of branches may bear upon its surface many
WEST SIDE OF HORSESHOE BASIN
moraines lying lengthwise with the glacier. At the melting
point all these moraines are dropped in a confused heap, form-
ing the terminal moraine. This may extend for a considerable
distance up and down the valley, because the foot of the glacier
moves backward and forward according to the season. Ina wet,
cold season the foot advances down the gorge, while in a warm,
dry season it retreats toward its source.
Herein we may see another point of similarity between the
.
422 LAKE CHELAN
glacier and a certain type of river. In the arid regions of the
West the streams which have their sources in the mountains
flow down into the valleys and disappear, being absorbed by the
dry soil and the thirsty atmosphere. These streams, like glaciers,
bear detritus down from the mountains, and upon their disap-
pearance in the valley they drop this detritus as the glacier does.
There are, therefore, certain characteristics by which the gorge
produced by glacial erosion may be distinguished from that pro-
duced by aqueous erosion. The glacial gorge has the shape of
CASCADE PASS AND AMPHITHEATER
the capital letter U, while the waterworn gorge is a V-shaped
notch. In a glacial gorge the spurs separating the tributaries
have their ends blunted or planed off, while in a waterworn
gorge they are sharp and angular. In a glacial gorge the tribu-
taries enter the valley above its level, while in a waterworn
gorge they commonly grade down to its level. A glacial gorge
has an amphitheater at its head; a waterworn gorge has not.
A glacial gorge is commonly lined near its lower end with lateral
moraines and across its foot stretches a terminal moraine, and
often this terminal moraine has formed a lake.
ALLS
Vy.
(
424 LAKE CHELAN
With the exception of lateral moraines, Lake Chelan and its
tributaries present all these features peculiar to glacial erosion,
and owing to the fact that the ice has but recently abandoned
the gorge, aqueous erosion has made but little progress, the gla-
cial forms are but little masked and are still the most prominent
features in the landscape.
Crossing Cascade pass from the west, one descends immedi-
diately into an amphitheater, enclosed on the west and south by
a mountain wall surrounded by high peaks. On the north is
the pass and on the east the land rises slightly, forming the
lower rim of the amphitheater. The hollow of this amphithe-
ater contains, all the year around, a great snow-field a mile or
more in length, which gives rise to Stehekin river. The accom-
panying illustration is taken from the rim of the amphitheater,
looking toward the pass, which appears in the background, with
the snow-field below it.
From the summit of the lower rim of the amphitheater there
is a steep descent of several hundred feet, down which the Ste-
hekin plunges in a series of cascades. The valley, at first nar-
row, broadens as it becomes deeper and the U-shaped form of a
glacial valley becomes more pronounced. On either side at short
intervals small branches join the stream. ‘These head among
the high mountains and flow with gentle courses through ancient
glacial valleys to the edge of the glacial gorge of Stehekin river,
over whose walls they leap in great falls. One such stream heads
in Horseshoe basin, on the left-hand side of Stehekin river, where
its waters are derived from asmall glacier. The waterfall known
as Gorman falls is the leap of the stream over the edge of the
elacial wall, which here is practically vertical.
The walls of the gorge along Stehekin river range from 4,000
to 5,000 feet in altitude above the bottom of the valley, and the
angle ranges from near verticality at the top to 40° or 45°,
Near the mouth of Company creek, some 15 miles above the
head of the lake, the wall is fully 5,000 feet in height, descend-
ing in one great sweep from the summit of the mountains down
to the hottom. Company creek, coming in on the right, though
a large stream, flows on a level several hundred feet above the
bed of Stehekin. Bridge creek, which joins the Stehekin three
or four miles farther down, coming in from the right, also a
large branch, flows in a valley several hundred feet above that
of the Stehekin, descending to it by a series of cascades and
waterfalls in a waterworn gorge 200 or 300 feet deep, which it
x
I
CRE
OMPANY
G
IN VALLEY, AT THE MOUTH OF
IK
HE
STE
426 LAKE CHELAN
has cut since the retreat of the glacier. Bridge creek has numer-
ous branches, and at the junction of each of these branches
similar phenomena are observed, although in case the branches
are nearly equal in size the bench or rise in the glacial valley
is not as marked as in the case of smaller branches. From all
indications it appears that the ice must have been at least 5,000
feet deep in this gorge of the Stehekin, since several of the smaller
branches join the main glacier at that height above its bed.
Lake Chelan is between 50 and 60 miles in length and from
half a mile to a mile or more in breadth. Except near its lower
end, it is enclosed throughout its course between high steep
walls, rising at angles of 40° to 45° directly from the water’s
edge to an altitude of 5,000 or 6,000 feet above the sea. The
elevation of the lake above the sea is 1,100 feet, and its cafion
walls rise 4,000 or 5,000 feet above its surface. Nearly all the
streams which flow into it are small, and tumble over its walls
in a series of cascades. There is but one stream of magnitude,
Railroad creek, which is tributary to it. This, which is upon
the west side, heads in the divide of the Cascade range, among
the high peaks, where its sources are fed from living glaciers
and its valley is a glacial gorge.
Near its upper end the lake is narrow and its depth increases
gradually, but about midway of its length it reaches a depth of
fully 1,400 feet, its bottom being, therefore, 300 feet below sea-
level. Thence its depth diminishes gradually to its lower end,
but not as regularly as it increases. The rock walls which en-
close the lake are strikingly parallel to one another. The high
mountains which border it at its head extend down nearly to
its foot, and then suddenly break away to the lower country,
first upon the east side and then upon the west.
The dam by which the lake is formed is the terminal moraine
of the glacier. The lake is now drained by a stream which has
cut through this terminal moraine, and after a short course of
three miles and a descent of 400 feet joins the Columbia. Above
the present outlet are indications of former outlets of the lake
in the shape of coulées, cut through from the west, or rather
south, side of the lake to Columbia river. The lower of these,
Knapps coulée, which leaves the lake at about three miles above
its present outlet, has an elevation, at its summit. of about 300
feet above the present level of the lake, with a sharp descent to
Columbia river at its lower end. The other leaves the lake at a
point about 10 miles above its present outlet, and is much
Ss : NVIGQHO AMVT NO YNIVACNOU SNIVINODOW
428 LAKE CHELAN
lower, its summit being only about 100 feet above the present
lake level.
Lake Chelan is not difficult of access. The traveler leaves
the Great Northern railway at Wenatchee, on Columbia river;
thence twice a week a little steamer stems the swift current of
the Columbia for forty miles, to the mouth of Chelan river, and
a stage covers the remaining three or four miles to the outlet of
the lake, where is situated the little town of Lakeside. On the
days when the steamer does not run on the Columbia the jour-
ney from Wenatchee to Lakeside may be made by stage. The
lake is traversed by a small steamer which, leaving Lakeside in
the morning, reaches Stehekin, at the head of the lake, where
there is a hotel, late in the afternoon, returning the next day.
On the shores of the lower part of the lake there are numerous
ranches, but within the mountain portion the only signs of
habitation are a few landings, and above Stehekin there are no
settlements, and travel in this region must be upon horseback,
with pack train.
TYPICAL VIEW FROM A BOAT ON LAKE CHELAN
FREDERIC W. PUTNAM,
President of the American Association for the Advancement of Science ;
Fiftieth Anniversary Meeting, Boston, 1898
The presidency of the American Association passed last month
from a chemist to an anthropologist, and that of the British As-
sociation from an anthropologist to a chemist, and there are no
more illustrious rolls in the scientific annals of the world than
those upon which the names of Gibbs and Putnam, Evans and
Crookes are now inscribed. ‘The election of Professor Frederic
Ward Putnam as President of the American Association was an
event of more than ordinary interest and satisfaction to Ameri-
can scientists, Professor Putnam having not only established his
claim to such recognition by forty years’ scientific work of the
highest character, but also won the admiration and regard of
scientific men everywhere by the signal ability, the marvelous
tact, the untiring zeal, and the unfailing courtesy with which
he has served the cause of science for the long period of twenty-
five years as permanent Secretary of the American Association.
Frederic Ward Putnam was born in Salem, Massachusetts,
April 16, 1839. His immediate ancestors were the Putnams,
Fiskes, Wards, and Appletons, who came from England during
the first half of the seventeenth century. Young Putnam re-
ceived private instruction until 1856; and as he displayed un-
usual aptness for the study of natural history his parents afforded
him every facility for the pursuit of his favorite study. When
he was but sixteen years of age he had compiled a “ Catalogue
of the Birds of Essex County, Massachusetts,» and about the
same time he was made curator of ornithology in the museum
of the institute.
At this time the attention of Louis Agassiz was drawn to the
young man’s devotion to natural history, and through his in-
fluence Putnam went to Cambridge, where he entered the Law-
rence Scientific School, intending to devote himself to medicine.
This intention was not carried out from the fact that he was
soon made assistant in the Zodlogical Museum and afterward
appointed curator of the Peabody Museum. His natural apti-
tude for scientific pursuits, aided by the excellent methods im-
429
43 FREDERIC W. PUTNAM
parted to him by his friend and master, Agassiz, prepared young
Putnam in a most admirable manner for his life work in science,
and from the day of his acceptance of the position in the Essex
Institute he has always been in demand for places of honor and
trust in scientific work. In 1859 he was made curator of ichthy-
ology in the museum of the Boston Society of Natural History.
In 1864 he became director of the museum of the Essex Insti-
tute, and three years later was made superintendent of the East
Indian Marine Society’s museum, and when the Peabody Acad-
emy of Science was established he was made director of the
academy. In 1873 he was elected permanent secretary of the
American Association for the Advancement of Science. In 1874
he was appointed member of the Kentucky geological survey
for the special investigation of the caves of that state. In the
summer of the same year he was for a time instructor in the
school for natural history at Penikese, and in the fall, on the
death of Professor Jeffries Wyman, he was called to the charge
of the Peabody Museum. In January, 1875, he was formally
appointed curator of the museum. The next summer found
him again in charge of the department of fishes in the Museum
of Comparative Zodlogy, and for two years he divided his time
between this institution and the Peabody Museum.
In 1876 he was appointed by the government to report on the
collections made by the survey west of the one hundredth me-
ridian, which report was finished in 1879. In 1887 he was
elected president of the Boston Society of Natural History, re-
taining the office two years. In 1882 he was appointed state
commissioner on inland fisheries by Governor Long, in which
office he remained for seven years. In 1886 he was appointed
to the new chair of American Archeology and Ethnology in
Harvard University. Since 1890 he has been president of the
Boston branch of the American Folk-Lore Society, and in 1891
was president of the parent society. In 1891 he was made chief
of the Department of Ethnology at the Chicago exposition, re-
taining this office until the fair closed. In April, 1894, he was
appointed curator of the Ethnological Department of the Amer-
ican Museum of Natural History in New York, and his time is
now divided between the institution and the Peabody Museum
in Cambridge.
Until 1876 Professor Putnam was an ardent worker and an
authority in zodlogy, making for himself an enviable name by
MESA VERDE 451
his constant and conscientious work; but since that date his
efforts have been in the department of ethnology. His interest
in these studies was aroused as early as 1857, when during a
visit to Montreal he dsicovered a shell-heap and on investiga-
tion determined it to be the site of an ancient habitation. He
was one of the first in this country to attribute these relics to
man, and since that time he has personally explored shell-heaps,
burial mounds, village sites, and caves in various parts of North
America, and has directed extensive explorations in the United
States and Mexico and in Central and South America. He has
been the director of large bodies of assistants in ethnological
and somatological investigations, the results of which are evi-
denced in the collections in the Peabody Museum, the American
Museum of Natural History in New York, and the Field Colum-
bian Museum in Chicago. In connection with these researches
he has published more than three hundred papers. He was the
originator of the Naturalist’s Directory ; he was one of the found-
ers of the American Naturalist and an editor of it till 1874. He
has edited the reports and proceedings of at least a dozen socie-
ties and institutions, and has contributed not a little to the more
popular magazine literature of the day. dfs del,
MESA VERDE
By F. H. NeweE Lt,
Chief Hydrographer, U. S. Geological Survey
The Mesa Verde, situated in the extreme southwestern corner
of Colorado, has been made known through the beautifully illus-
trated book of Nordenskiold, entitled “The Cliff Dwellers of the
Mesa Verde.” Besides ethnologic interest, it has many attrac-
tions for the geographer or geologist. It is a remnant of an an-
cient plain which formerly stretched southerly and westerly from
the country where now are situated the high La Plata mountains.
During the course of geologic time the same force presumably
which uplifted the La Platas tilted this plain and, erosion being
facilitated, it was deeply trenched, until now the Mesa Verde
stands as a great table-land slightly tilted toward the south,
presenting to view from all sides sharp precipitous edges. On
the north is the bold promontory known as Point Lookout, facing
432 MESA VERDE
toward the La Plata mountains; on the west is the broad Mon-
tezuma valley, drained by tributaries of McElmo creek ; on the
east is the valley of Mancos river, and on the south the narrow
canyon through which Mancos river discharges on its way from
the La Plata mountains to San Juan river.
Standing on the southern edge of the Mesa Verde and looking
across the deep canyons of the tributaries of the Mancos, it is
seen that the same plain extended originally far to the south
into New Mexico; but what appears to be a level surface is found
upon traversing the country to be a land deeply dissected and
almost impassable except along the flat-topped ridges or valley
bottoms.
The Mesa Verde derives its name from the fact that its top is
densely covered with a growth of cedar and pinon trees, con-
trasting with the arid and almost desolate lowlands. In viewing
the mesa from a distance and in going around it the impression
is derived that its surface must be a plain, but upon laboriously
climbing to the top of it it is found that it is in reality more like
a hollow shell. The whole interior has been dug out, not in one
great valley, but in almost innumerable small narrow canyons,
which converge toward the south and enter the Mancos. The
plan of the surface of the mesa would give th appearance of a
number of fingers stretching up from the so. and spreading
out toward the northern end. In other words, the fingers of
time have, as though drawn from north to south, dug out the
long narrow valleys, leaving only thin parallel ridges rising al-
most to the original height. Traveling along the top of these
ridges is easy, as the surface is smooth. Numerous cattle trails
wind in and out among the trees, and on horseback the ground
can be covered as rapidly as the rider can dodge the stiff-pointed,
dead, lower branches of the trees; but in attempting to go from
side to side itis found to be almost impossible to make progress.
Reaching the edge of a precipice, the explorer wanders up or
down until by chance he finds a place where the rock has been
broken down,and on reaching the bottom of the valley he must
again search perhaps for miles for an opportunity to climb out.
About the only sure and practicable way of visiting vari-
ous parts of the mesa is to ascend near its upper edge, at
Point Lookout, and then keep on this narrow rim, in this way
passing around the head of the different finger-like gorges.
There is here a trail traveled by pack animals. At places the
MESA VERDE 433
ridge is so narrow that the rider looks down almost vertically on
one side into the Montezuma valley and on the other into the
head of the small canyons that lead to Mancos river. A misstep
would throw a pack animal far down either slope.
The peculiar form of the mesa is due largely to the existence
of a heavy bed of sandstone which forms the top-capping and
protects the softer underlying rock. This weathers and cracks
in almost vertical cliffs all around the outer edges. In the in-
terior of the mesa, however, at the head of the numerous small
canyons, erosion has proceeded in a peculiar manner, and one
which was found by the aborigines to be highly favorable to
their purposes. Along the edges near the top of the canyon cer-
tain portions of the sandstone have weathered, leaving great
shelves, protected above by the overhanging masses. These
shelves can be reached often with great difficulty, as the cliffs
below them may be 100 feet or more vertically, and access from
the top is almost impossible. The roof of these openings gradu-
ally slopes down to the floor, so that these great horizontal
crevices or caves, as they are sometimes called, may extend back
50 or 100 feet, and in length may stretch for several hundred
feet. .
Around and ¢ 1 the mesa are found numerous fragments of
pottery orof chi .dstone, and here and there mounds of refuse,
showing the location of ruined houses or towns. ‘The innumer-
able objects testify to the former presence of a large population.
Ruins of stone towers on prominent points show that the arts of
defense were an important feature of their life. It is, however,
under the shelter of the great overhanging rocks that we find the
ruins almost in perfection. Here, in the dry climate, protected
from the occasional fierce storms, the dust of centuries has ac-
cumulated, and even organic matter has hardly undergone any
change. The great stone houses and towers rise story upon story,
and behind, in the piles of refuse thrown in the part of the cave
where the roof approaches the floor, are the worn-out sandals,
the broken pottery, and all the rubbish of a town. Here, evi-
dently, were kept great flocks of turkeys, and in the rubbish
sometimes graves were made, the bodies now being dried to the
condition of tough leather, being perfectly preserved mummies.
The clothing on the-<e, such as the feather robes, has retained its
texture and even in placesits color. No fragments of metal have
been found, but all the implements are of bone, wood, or stone.
30
434 MESA VERDE
The buildings are constructed of carefully squared rock, each of
which must have been brought some considerable distance up
steep ladders or along the narrow trails which lead to the towns.
Water was had in some cases by small springs or seeps within
the rock; in others it was brought in earthen jars, carried, pre-
sumably on the heads of the women, from the springs far down
in the valley. The foot and hand holes cut in the rock still
show the path by which the dwellings were reached, but in places
these terminate on overhanging cliffs, where it is obvious that
ladders must have been employed.
These ruins have been an object of superstitious dread by the
Utes and other Indians living in the neighborhood and have not
been disturbed by them through centuries; but with the advent
of the white men destruction has come, and many of the finest
have been wantonly pulled to pieces or injured in the search for
relics. In particular an estufa or council chamber situated
below the surface of the ground and the only one remaining in
perfect condition was partially pulled to pieces in order to take
some of the logs of the roof to exhibit at the World’s Fair at
Chicago. Various individuals have made a business of collect-
ing the pottery from these ruins, rifling the graves and selling
the material thus obtained to tourists or to collectors of curios-
ities. Several museums have sent exploring parties into the
vicinity and have obtained material for exhibition. Although
these ruins are presumably the property of the National Gov-
ernment, little, if anything, has been done to preserve them, and
the National Museum possesses comparatively few objects from
this locality. It isa matter of regret that these interesting ruins
are not being preserved, as even from a commercial aspect they
would have an ever-increasing value to that part of the State in
attracting tourists from all over the world. In spite of the dif-
ficulties of access, it is estimated that at present 75 parties a vear
visit the more important of these cliff-houses. The trip is made
from Mancos, a town on the Rio Grande Southern railway, a
day being spent in reaching the ruins on horseback, another
day or more in visiting the ruins, and the greater part of one
day in returning to the railroad. It might be practicable to
construct a wagon road, but no steps of this kind should be
taken to facilitate travel until ample protection is provided to
prevent the defacing and injury of the buildings by careless
visitors.
THE GEOSPHERES*
By W J McGEs,
Vice-President of the National Geographic Society
Perhaps it is my first duty, as it is a privilege, to offer you a
word of welcome on behalf of the Society which I have the
honor to represent—one of the institutions of the National Cap-
ital engaged in its own way in educational work. Speaking for
that Society, Mr President and Tadies and gentlemen of the
National Educational Association, I bid you cordial welcome to
Washington, and place at your disposal all the facilities which
are ours.
Before leading you away from the earth’s surface, which has
been so admirably described by the last speaker, I wish to con-
fess that I labor under a certain embarrassment. In the first
place, Iam attempting to speak for another man, and on his
subject. The subject was chosen by Major J. W. Powell; first
an educator like most of you; then a soldier who left an arm at
Shiloh; next the explorer of'Colorado canyon, the boldest piece
of exploratory work in the history of our country; then a geol-
ogist and long Director of the U.S. Geological Survey; at the
same time an ethnologist and founder of the Bureau of Ameri-
can Hthnology; and from first to last a philosopher, one of the
- most vigorous thinkers America has produced. Itis but natural
that I should shrink from discussion of a subject developed by
so original a thinker and selected by him for presentation be-
fore you in his own inimitable way.
Again, I belong to the class of knowledge makers who most
feel their own limitations in appearing before those who assim-
ilate and apply knowledge, placing it within reach of the people
and thereby performing the real work of raising humanity from
plane to plane as time goes on. LI apprehend that my ideas
may seem vague and my expressions obscure, but I confidently
appeal to your intelligence to aid in making the ideas clear and
useful to the multitude of American youth for whom you stand
sponsors.
* An address delivered before the National Educational Association, Washington,
July 9, 1898.
435
456 THE GEOSPHERES
First as to definitions—definitions rendered the more neces-
sary for the reason that the essential ideas which I wish to ex-
press have not yet found their way into the dictionaries. Since
early in the history of knowledge, men have recognized the
atmosphere—t. e., the body of air above the earth. At first the
recognition was vague; it became more and more definite as
time went on; and now educated men and women and children
know the atmosphere as a gaseous envelope surrounding the
solid earth, an envelope composed of a complex mixture of sub-
stances, chiefly of oxygen and nitrogen. This atmosphere is
one of the geospheres, the outermost of four.
Since the beginning of knowledge, too, men have perceived
the waters of the earth; and, as time has gone on, they have
recognized more and more clearly the substantial unity of the
standing waters of ocean and bay and lake, the running waters
of springs and rivers, and the solid waters of Arctic and Antarctic
snows and the glaciers of mountain and pole; and they are com-
ing to extend the unity to include the aqueous vapor of the air,
one of the constituent gases of the atmosphere. Water isa defi-
nite mineral substance existing in three forms, as solid, liquid,
and gas, though chiefly in the second form; it constitutes a
hydrosphere—the second of the four geospheres—covering the
greater part of the solid earth and covered by the greater part
of the atmosphere.
Human knowledge began with the recognition of the solid
earth ; as time passed the knowledge became definite through
the endless interactions between human mind and human en-
vironment; and today most intelligent people recognize a ter-
restrial sphere beginning with the soils and rocks beneath their -
feet, passing beneath river and lake and ocean to the antipodes,
and extending from equator to pole in aspheroidal mass forming
the visible solid part of our planet. Now it is only the superfi-
cial portion of this spheroidal mass which lies within reach of
observation ; this is the rocky crust of the earth, the object-
matter of the science of geology ; it consists of a wide variety of
mineral substances, mainly combined in rocks of a specific grav-
ity averaging about 2.70: This earth-crust forms the lands of
the earth and the basins of the oceans; all of the geographic and
topographic features so well described by Dr Redway are built
up or carved out of it; the continents, the islands, the valleys,
the mountains of the world represent this vast mass of rock-
THE GEOSPHERES 43
matter, which it is convenient to call the lithosphere—the third
of the four geospheres.
While observation of terrestrial things ends with the atmos-
phere and hydrosphere and lithosphere, definite thinkers find it
necessary to form some idea of the constitution of the interior
portions of the planetary mass at depths below the reach of di-
rect vision. Now knowledge of the earth’s interior is gained
not through geology but through the sister science, astronomy.
You are aware that within recent years astronomers have re-
duced to system our sun, the planets and asteroids which circle
about it, the satellites which follow the planets. and the long-
mysterious rings of Saturn—the various constituents of our solar
system ; and the paths of the planets and satellites have been
surveyed, while each of the bodies has been measured and
weighed, so that their volumes and densities are known with
considerable accuracy. Let me indicate the accuracy with which
this astronomical work has been done by saying that sun, planet,
and satellite have been weighed with an accuracy no less than
that of the grocer in dealing out sugar and tea, and that the
orbits of planets, satellites, and asteroids have been surveyed as
accurately as the roadways and even the railways of the earth’s
surface. he earth itself has been weighed, with somewhat less
accuracy than the other planets, it is true, yet with sufficient
accuracy to indicate that its mean density is nearly six times
that of water (5.6 +), or more than twice that of the known
lithosphere. Accordingly it is known beyond peradventure that
the earth has an interior portion much denser than the known
exterior; and this somewhat vaguely defined part of the earth
may conveniently be called a centrosphere—the innermost of the
four geospheres. —
In the light of these definitions, you will understand that my
object in coming before you is not so much to say new things
as to try to establish a new point of view. Knowledge pro-
eresses in two ways which are interrelated yet fairly distinct ;
the first is analysis and the second is synthesis; the sum of
knowledge is increased by analysis, while its quality is improved
by synthesis.’ I am now attempting, not to bring new facts be-
fore you, but to put old facts together in a new way, and thus to
carry you to a higher plane in the synthesis or generalization of
a wide range of observations; and I am seeking to do this in
such manner as to reflect the workings of another man’s mind—
the mind of the real author of this address.
438 THE GEOSPHERES
Let us now consider the relations between the geospheres.
In the first place, the matter of the geospheres is unlike in
state or physical condition. The atmosphere is almost wholly
gaseous ; the hydrosphere is for the most part liquid, though in
part solid and in small part gaseous; the lithosphere is almost
wholly solid, though a minute part is gaseous (chiefly as im-
purities in the air), while a small part may be liquid under
temporary and local circumstances; for the present the centro-
sphere may be considered a transolid. Thus the four geo-
spheres represent the three well-known states of matter, together
with a fourth state which is not certainly known from direct
observation. Itis the marvelously delicate interrelation between
the three exterior geospheres that gives character to the earth
as the theater of life and the home of humanity ; for plant and
beast and man are alike dependent on the lithosphere for the
solid part of their bodily substance, on the hydrosphere for the
greater part of their sustenance, and on the atmosphere for the
breath of life.
In the second place, the exterior geospheres at least are, de-
spite the differences in physical condition, in some degree inter-
mixed. The greater part of the atmosphere floats over the
waters and lands of the earth as a thin mantle growing more
and more tenuous outward ; an early estimate of its thickness
was forty-five miles, but the American physicist Woodward has
recently shown that the outer portion is much less dense than
at first supposed, and that the total thickness of the mantle ex-
ceeds the radius of the solid earth. A small part of the atmos-
phere is intermixed with the waters of the hydrosphere, especially
the running waters of rivers and brooks; another part pushes
down into the lithosphere, filling interstices in the rocks and
playing an important role in the chemical and physical changes
ever proceeding in the earth-crust. In like manner, while the
greater part of the hydrosphere exists in the oceans, lakes,
rivers, snow-fields and glaciers, a considerable volume rises far
into the atmosphere in the form of aqueous vapor, and a much
greater volume permeates the lithosphere as ground water or in
still more intimate combination with the solid earth-substance.
So, too, the material of the lithosphere is in small part dis-
solved or suspended in the waters or afloat in the air; at the
same time there is an obscure interrelation between the litho-
sphere proper and the centrosphere, manifested in volcanic and
other phenomena and perhaps in the presence of metals among
THE GEOSPHERES 439
the rocks, for there are certain reasons (which cannot now be set
forth) for regarding the centrosphere as an aggregation of metal-
loid substances, much as the lithosphere is an aggregation of
lithoid substances. The blending of the exterior geospheres is
especially intimate where the three are in normal contact, 7. ¢.,
about the terrestrial surface on which men live and with which
geographers deal ; and the soils, the plants which subsist on the
soils, the animals which consume the plants, and the crowning
human organism which dominates all the others are products
of the commingling. —
Just as the geospheres are intermingled in material, so they
are, in some measure, interrelated in normal movements. The
atmosphere is an aerial ocean, ever astir with currents due pri-
marily to the rotation and revolution of the sphere, 7. ¢., to move-
ments depending on the density and volume of centrosphere
and lithosphere ; the waters of the ocean are evaporated into the
atmosphere, carried far in its currents as aqueous vapor, and
then precipitated to flow back again as fresh water, while the
body of the ocean is enlivened by currents set in motion by the
ever-moving atmosphere as well as by tides produced by rota-
tion and revolution ; the lithosphere is constantly destroyed and
reconstructed by the moving waters of the hydrosphere, while
the earth-crust is warped and continents are lifted and sea-bot-
toms depressed by the obscure but potent movements of the
centrosphere. So the normal movements of the geospheres are
interrelated ; and most of them, from the rhythmic rise and fall
of the earth-crust through which continents are lifted and sub-
merged to the trade-winds and_ oceanic currents, may be traced
to the motions of the centrosphere.
Let us now consider fora moment how the conditions and
motions of the exterior geospheres would be affected by cir-
cumstances which, at first sight, might seem trivial ; for thereby
we may see more clearly how delicate are the interrelations on
which terrestrial lifeand human activity depend. Suppose the
temperature of the earth were raised, say, 200° F., what would
follow? Your common sense, born of experience, tells you
that much or all of the hydrosphere would cease to exist as
such and become a part of the atmosphere; that the atmos-
phere would thereby be multiplied in volume and density,
changed in substance, and modified in movements, yet that the
lithosphere would remain substantially unchanged save that
some of its substance would be dissolved in the densified atmos-
440 THE GEOSPHERES
phere. Probably the centrosphere would not be greatly affected ;
yet even so shght a change in circumstance as an increase of
temperature by only 200° would remove the hydrosphere from
the earth and greatly modify the atmosphere.
Let us next consider the effect which would follow the reduc-
tion of the temperature of the earth by, say, 400° F., something
we should have been unable to do a generation ago, but which
we can now do easily by reason of recent experiments and dis-
coveries in physics. You will remember that about a score of
years ago Cailletet of France and Pictet of Switzerland began
to liquefy different gases by the application of pressure at low
temperature; many of you know that this line of experimenta-
tion was continued by the distinguished chemist and physicist
of London, Dewar, who liquefied one gas after another until
every gaseous substance known to man, including hydrogen,
has been reduced to the liquid state; and I am sure many of
you know that an American, Tripler, has recently improved on
the work of our European cousins and has learned to liquefy
air in large quantities, at low cost, by the skillful application of
pressure and artificially reduced temperature. Tripler’s work,
by the way, is worthy of more than passing note, for his ad-
vance has given mankind a new hold on the powers of nature,
with a promise of practical applications yielding benefits much
greater than were promised by electrical control when inventors
first began to utilize electricity for mechanical and other pur-
poses; but this is a digression. Now, liquid air is a little lighter
than water and boils or evaporates at about 312° below zero, F.
So we know that if the temperature of our planet were to be
reduced by 400° the atmosphere would cease to exist as such
and would shrink to one eight-hundredth of its present bulk
and be converted into a hydrosphere; we know, too, that long
before the reduction was completed the hydrosphere would
cease to exist as such and would become a part of the litho-
sphere, for the waters of ocean and lake would be congealed
(as we know from Tripler’s experiments) into a dry powdery
mass of crystals, crumbling under blows or pressure just as
granite and limestone and other rocks crumble at our present
temperature; the waters would become rock added to the rock
which now exists. By this transformation the volume of the
lithosphere would be augmented by that of the present oceans,
the present sea-level would become sea-bottom, and a lighter sea
of liquid air (only a dozen or a score of yards in depth) would
THE GEOSPHERES 441
wash the frozen globe, leaving continents and islands rising
above its surface in a geographic configuration differing not
greatly from that of the present. Over this globe no air would
float, save possibly a light vapor scantier than the aqueous vapor
now borne in our atmosphere; and no man or beast or plant, no
trace of life could exist.
Consideration of the profound modification in the exterior
geospheres necessarily following changes in temperature which
can only be considered as slight in comparison with the wide
temperature range even of our solar system aids us in under-
standing something of the conditions which attended the early
stages in the development of our’planet. The earth as a whole
is apparently a cooling body, though the rate of cooling may
be—indeed must be—almost infinitesimally slow. So the
planet primeval must have been warmer, a greater part of its
water must have been afloat as vapor in the atmosphere, which
must have been heavy with vapors and the fumes of solids
soluble in hot water. In like manner the changes necessarily
produced in the geospheres by diminished temperature enable
us to take a long look into the future and foresee the fate which
awaits the aging planet—unless, indeed, this fate may be averted
by aid of human ingenuity. There are many indications that
the mechanism of the solar system, and, indeed, of the stellar
system, is running down. We know that the water of the
earth is going into new combinations from time to time as a
constituent of the rocks of the lithosphere; we know that the
water area of the globe is diminishing from age to age as the
eons run, for the clastic deposits with which geologists are most
concerned were laid down. in water, while those now forming
are largely if not mainly accumulated on land; there are deserts
on every continent today, while the record of geology indicates
that during the Carboniferous and earlier ages all the lands of
the earth were fertile and humid. And just as the hydrosphere
is going into the lithosphere by chemic absorption as well as by
interpenetration, so the commingled oxygen and nitrogen of the
atmosphere are slowly seperating and combining with the sub-
stances of the lithosphere, and probably also with the substance
of the hydrosphere. The changes yield a glimpse of planetary
history ; they suggest a time when the now deep-buried centro-.
sphere was enveloped only by heavy atmosphere, with no litho-
sphere save possibly its own scums and slags, and no hydro-
sphere save possibly viscid lakes of its own substance half
442 THE GEOSPHERES
liquefied by relief from pressure like the lavas of later time;
they raise visions of slowly segregating waters and accumulating
rocks formed through interaction between the condensing at-
mosphere and the cooling centrosphere; they indicate the
differentiation of the geospheres in nice adjustment to tempera-
ture and other conditions. The changes indeed give a threat of
ultimate absorption of ajr and water into the rocks, leaving a
dead planet of centrosphere and lithosphere only, swinging
helpless through space like our frozen moon; yet there is a
faint promise in a fifth geosphere produced through delicate
- interaction among the three exterior spheres of the earth, lying
about the common boundary of the three, dependent on all,
yet able (at least in some measure) to control their relations—a
psychosphere, comprehending the scanty but potent and ever-
growing mantle of thought which today envelops the world.
Just a few words more, if you please, concerning the general
relations among the geospheres: The atmosphere is a body of
gas conditioned primarily by temperature; the hydrosphereis a
volume of liquid conditioned by temperature and gravity; the
lithosphere is a shell of rock conditioned by temperature, gravity,
and a more complex chemic affinity than is found in the mix-
ture air or the compound water; the centrosphere is a transolid
and probably metalloid body, conditioned in ways that are not
well known; the several geospheres combine to form a planet
conditioned by temperature, gravity, chemic affinity, and per-
haps other agencies, which extend to other planets and satel-
lites and suns of the cosmos. So the features of the geospheres,
i. €., the characteristics of our planet, are largely determined from
within; yet it is not to be forgotten that each geosphere con-
tributes to the making of the others, and thus to the molding of
the planet and in some measure to the shaping of the cosmos.
This has already been indicated incidentally.
Let us now proceed to consider a few of the special relations
among the geospheres which affect cosmic economy: We have
good reason for supposing that the earth is a cooling body, that
some of its primeval heat is constantly passing into space to
affect (howsoever infinitesimally) other bodies; but do we know
why the temperature of the earth is not lowered more rapidly—
why the lowering is so slow as not to be detectable by the ob-
servations of history ? We know that if the earth were simply
a ball swinging through interstellar space and cooling by the
THE GEOSPHERES 443
radiation of its heat into space it would soon be refrigerated ;
we know too that in this case the temperature of its surface
would be determined solely by two factors, viz: (1) the temper-
ature of the ball itself, and (2) the temperature of interstellar
space. Now, onexamining our planet as an actual thing and not
as a figment of the imagination, we do not find that the tem-
perature ofits surface is determined, or even perceptibly affected,
by its own proper heat; we do find that the temperature of the
external earth is determined by the heat received from the sun.
It follows, of course, that the earth is not merely a cooling ball
suspended in cold space. On-examining more critically the
conditions determining our temperature we find there are two,
viz: (1) insolation or accession of solar heat, and (2) conserva-
tion of a considerable part of this heat for a time by a terrestrial
mechanism. This mechanism resides chiefly in interrelations
among the exterior geospheres. The most important conserva-
tive agency is the aqueous vapor of the air, which not only stores
quantities of heat to be given off on condensation, but serves to
check radiation from the earth into space. When thesun shines
on the ocean, a film of water is evaporated to be borne high in
the clouds and carried far over the mainland ; when it is con-
densed a part of its heat is employed in raising the temperature
of surrounding air, water, and rock; so that water, chiefly in
the form of vapor, stores heat more effectively than any other
substance with which we are acquainted. Still more efficient is
aqueous vapor as a blanket checking evaporation ; dry air is
diathermous, but vapor-laden air checks radiation from the
earth as a garment checks. radiation from the body. Since there
is no part of the earth, even on the deserts and polar ice-fields,
in which there is not an appreciable quantity of aqueous vapor
in the air, this substance forms a clothing for the earth, deter-
mining its temperature, rendering it habitable, and making it
what it is today, the stage of human activity.
There is another class of special relations between the geo-
spheres which I should lke to bring before you, partly as a new
discovery. As before pointed out, the rocks of the earthcrust or
lithosphere are permeated by water in the form known techni-
cally as ground water or phreatic water. Now one of our most
distinguished geologists, Professor Van Hise of the University
of Wisconsin, has recently shown that this ground water plays
an important role in changing the texture and structure of
rocks, especially at depths where the pressure is great and the
444 THE GEOSPHERES
temperature higher than at the surface. It is a well-known
property of water to dissolve certain substances, and its efficiency
in dissolving many rock-substances is greatly increased when
the substances are subjected to pressure and heat; and, under
these conditions, it also ionizes complex substances—i. ¢., sepa-
rates them into their simple components or ions. Accordingly
when moist rocks are subjected to strong pressure at high tem-
perature, as is frequently the case deep in the earthcrust, the
rock-matter is dissolved at the points and planes of greatest
pressure and precipitated or redeposited at neighboring points
and planes of less pressure; so that, for example, a crystalline
cube of wet and hot rock-matter may be permanently distorted
by long-continued pressure on opposite faces, the crystals grad-
ually yielding to the stress in the direction of pressure and
elongating themselves in the orthogonal directions. Through
its property as a dissolving and ionizing agent, that portion of
the hydrosphere which penetrates and suffuses the lithosphere
has determined the texture and structure of most of our rocks;
it has transformed the muds and sands and slimes of original
deposition into shales, sandstones, and limestones; in some
instances it has reconverted or metamorphosed these rocks into
schists, quartzites, and marbles ; still more significantly it has
aided in remetamorphosing deep-seated rocks into lavas and
other crystallines. This extreme effect of water is peculiarly
instructive in that it reveals something of the character of the
centrosphere, whose dense materials are brought within reach
of observation only by water as a solvent and sublimant in the
form of lavas, vein-stones, and other rocks of hypogean origin.
There is reason for regarding the atmosphere as a differentiating
and dissipating factor, and the hydrosphere as a unifying and
conserving factor, both interacting with the centrosphere in such
manner as to develop the lithosphere and convert it into the
terrestrial home of humanity; but this relation need not be
pursued for the present. Yet itis worth while to note a curious
relation between lithosphere. and centrosphere which is appar-
ently controlled by the waters both of the surface and the
depths: The two inner geospheres are in unstable equilibrium ;
this is shown by the occasional escape of the deep-seated ma-
terials from the foundation of the lithosphere (if not from. the
centrosphere itself) in the form of extruded lavas and subli-
mated vein-stones; it is shown also by the interminable heay-
ing of the pom ecamicte manifested in continental oscillation
THE GEOSPHERES 445
and, to some extent, in the uplifting of mountains; it is indi-
eated further, in still more interesting though obscure fashion,
by the apparent reduction of loose-textured solids to the denser
transolid condition in provinces subject to loading through dep-
osition of exceptional volumes of sediment—e. g., the Gulf of
Mexico, the world’s most notable province of loading, whose
configuration suggests a hypogean “slump” which may be im-
itated experimentally by pouring a few drops of heavier and
cooler liquid into a viscid liquid at the critical (or boiling)
point; but this most interesting relation may also be passed
over for the present with the simple suggestion—made by many
phenomena —that the solid lithosphere and transolid centro-
sphere appear to be interconvertible at a critical point of tem-
perature and pressure, much as the atmosphere and hydrosphere
may be considered interconvertible in state and in substance on
passing a critical point conditioned by the same factors, and
that the hypothesis of interconvertibility explains some of the
most puzzling facts in geology.
There are other interrelations between the geospheres, inter-
relations innumerable; time will not permit me to mention a
tithe or even a hundredth part of them; yet there is one more
relation which appeals strongly to those geographers who, like
myself, always see the lands and the waters from the human
standpoint, and [ beg your indulgence for the three minutes re-
quired to set it forth briefly. My predecessor, Dr Redway, has
admirably defined for you the natural provinces of America, and
shown you that the features of the land, formed during the ages
by the work of running waters, shape the character of our peo-
ple. I trust he will permit me to add a word to his theme, as
well as to that of the thinker for whom I am speaking: In what
we call the western hemisphere the land and the waters are so
related as to form a broad continent, the North American con-
tinent, mainly in the North Temperate zone; during the ages
the centrosphere has heaved and sunk according to its wont,
and has interacted with the atmosphere and hydrosphere in
such manner as to produce a lithosphere of far-reaching forma-
tions, crumpled here into mountains, stretching there in broad
plains, modified everywhere at the surface into fertile soils,
charged often at the depths with mineral treasures—the whole
a rich patrimony wasted on unintelligent aborigines until men
of thought and action came to claim it. Then, since the lands
446 THE GEOSPHERES
were broad and fertile, agriculture spread more rapidly than
ever before, more rapidly than would be possible under other
conditions; next the magnificent distances and rich produce
compelled improved transportation facilities, and steam was
harnessed more effectively than would be possible under other
conditions. Meantime the broad problems presented by a broad
land widened the views of men already inspired by political
freedom, and America became a nation of inventors, a people of
applied science; geography was studied more broadly than
would be possible in a petty province ; it grew into a science of
eeology, inspired by the breadth of the formations and their
wealth in resources, guided by intelligence broad as the land,
and today the geologists of this country lead the world in their
science. The sister sciences were invigorated by the associa-
tion. I have said that the solar system has been weighed and
measured with unparalleled accuracy during recent years, and
may now add that the work was done by American genius, and
that today the shipping of the civilized world is guided by nau-
tical almanacs based on this American work. Another science,
regenerated in America by reason of favorable conditions, is an-
thropology. We have had better opportunities than the students
of other countries for research concerning mankind ; we have
in Washington and in other cities representatives from every
important country on the face of the earth, representatives of
every living race, of every blood in human veins; then we have
a wider range of culture constantly before us than any other
nation, a range running from savage aborigines through bar-
baric tribes up to the representatives of the kingdoms and em-
pires from other countries, and finally to our own enlightened
people, standing on the highest plane which mankind has ever
attained—the plane on which social organization is based on
intellectual freedom. We have every stage in human culture
before us, and hence have been able to develop a broader and
profounder science of anthropology than the world has seen
before. Especially during the last half century our country has
sprung forward in the race for intellectual attainment, surpass-
ing all other nations ; and our application of scientific princi-
ples has kept pace with our development of knowledge. Today
if English promoters in Egypt want locomotives furnished on
short notice, they send to America, knowing that, despite the
doubling in distance, the order can be filled more quickly than
at home; today if a bridge is to be built more rapidly than the
THE GEOSPHERES 447
engineers of other countries can do it, American engineers are
called to the task. Our progress in application has combined
with our progress in knowledge to strengthen individual char-
acter, to produce a free and forceful individuality greater than
other countries know—an individuality splendidly expressed in
the faces before me. This exalted individuality is displayed in
more perfect codrdination of thought, in more complete union
of hand and brain than the world has ever seen before; it is re-
vealed in moral uprightness and strength of character, in per-
sonal courage, even in that splendid marksmanship—the highest
expression of codrdination between mind and muscle—which is
America’s latest revelation to the world. The individual char-
acter of Americans gives national character to America; our
patriotism, the spontaneous product of free minds, is broader
and deeper than any sentiment brought out by royal edict; no
other country could match the recent impulse which prompted
the millionaire clubman of New York and the roving cowboy
of Arizona to stand shoulder to shoulder in a war for hu-
manity’s sake. It is the unequaled individuality of the free
citizen, united and controlled by a dominant idea, that forms
the basis of our indomitable social organization, a social organ-
ization faintly expressed by that coordination in army and navy
which overwhelms opposition. Complete as is our coérdination
in military matters, it is much more perfect in civil life, in
that unceasing conquest over nature toward which our deepest
thoughts are bent; and our 70,000,000 individuals, each a tower
of individual strength, are kept in touch by telegraph and tele-
phone and press, united in thought and purpose, knit into the
strongest social and political fabric the world has seen. It is
this social fabric, the expression of thought and purpose, which
I have in mind in referring to the psychosphere, most delicate
yet noblest of the geospheres, which seems to be enveloping our
planet and commencing the control of the rock-sphere, the
water-sphere, and even the air-sphere for the good of humanity.
And it is this conquest of the powers and resources of the ex-
terior spheres, inspired by intellectual freedom and guided by
liberal education like that which you dispense, that has placed
America in the foremost rank among the nations of the earth.
PROPOSED COLLECTION OF ‘FORESTRY STATISTICS
At a special meeting of the National Geographic Society, held
in the Lecture Hall of the Boston Society of Natural History,
Boston, Massachusetts, August 25, 1898, Vice-President W J
McGee in the chair, the following resolutions were adopted :
Whereas, through the increasing consumption of forest products, the
destruction of forests, and the vast extension of means of transportation,
questions hitherto of restricted bearing are rapidly assuming grave in-
ternational importance; and
Whereas the National Forest Association of Germany has undertaken
to collect throughout the world forest information and statistics of com-
mercial importance :
Resolved, That the National Geographic Society express its deep sense
of the value to mankind of the work thus begun, and pledge its counte-
nance and support to the investigation ; and
Resolved, That a committee of three be appointed by the chair to com-
municate these resolntions to the National Forest Association of Germany,
and to take such other steps as may be necessary to carry them into
effect.
In conformity with the resolution, the chair appointed Mr
Gifford Pinchot, of Washington, chairman, and Messrs William
H. Brewer, of New Haven, and Arnold Hague, of Washington,
as a committee to take requisite action on behalf of the National
Geographic Society.
MISCELLANEA
It has recently been ascertained that the British consumption of sugar
(1,566,000 tons per annum) is almost equal to that of France, Germany,
Austria, Holland, and Belgium combined.
The import trade of Canada during the fiscal vear 1897-1898 amounted
to $140,305,950, an increase over the preceding year of $21,000,000. The
exports had an aggregate value of $159,485,770, an increase of $25,482,000.
A Danish expedition to explore the east coast of Greenland between
the 66th and 70th degrees north latitude sailed from Copenhagen on Au-
gust 16, under Lieut. Amdrup. The ship, the Godthaab, has a complete
scientific equipment and is provisioned for two years.
The Duke of the Abruzzi (Prince Luigi of Savoy) has added to his
achievements in mountaineering by a successful ascent of the Aiguille
Sans Nom, an Alpine peak that has hitherto defied the efforts of the
most intrepid and determined explorers. The daring feat was accom-
plished on August 16.
448
—
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
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More Insurance in Force - - - - - ($918,000,000)
A Greater Amount of Assets - - - ($235,000,000)
A Larger Annual Interest Income - -_ - ($9,000,000)
Writes More New Business’~ - - - ($136,000,000)
And Pays More to Policy-holders - ($25,000,000 in 1896)
THAN ANY OTHER COMPANY.
It has paid to Policy-holders since
its organization, in 1848, | - = $437,005,195.29
ROBERT A. GRANNISS, Vice-President.
WALTER R. GILLETTE, General Manager. FREDERIC CROMWELL, Treasurer.
ISAAC F. LLOYD, Second Vice-President. EMORY McCLINTOCK, Actuary.
WILLIAM J. EASTON, Secretary.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
EeistPaut
Ripans Tabules cure headache.
The Fastest and Finest Train in the West. ...
pact Y The he Overland Limited
Uv |
il <9 | Box Bal J
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Double Drawing-Room Pullman Sleepers.
Free Reclining Chair Cars.
Pullman Dining Cars.
Buffet Smoking and Library Cars,
Send for Descriptive Pamphlet “ 49-96," E. L. LOMAX,
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(Mention this publication.) OMAHA, NEB,
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waukee, St. Paul and Minneapolis daily.
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Omaha and Sioux City daily.
Through Sleeping Cars, Free Reclining Chair Cars and Coaches between Chicago
and Kansas City, Mo.
Only two hours from Chicago to Milwaukee. Seven fast trains each way, daily,
with Parlor Car Service.
Solid trains between Chicago and principal points in Northern Wisconsin and
the Peninsula of Michigan.
Through Trains with Palace Sleeping Cars, Free Reclining Chair Cars and Coaches
between Chicago and points in Iowa, Minnesota, Southern and Central Dakota.
The finest Dining Cars in the World.
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The best and latest type of private Compartment Cars, Free Reclining Chair
Cars, and buffet Library Smoking Cars.
Everything First-class. First-class People patronize First-class Lines.
Ticket Agents everywhere sell tickets over the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Ry.
GEO. H. HEAFFORD,
General Passenger Agent, Chicago, III.
WHENEVER YOU VISIT WASHINGTON
YOU ARE INVITED TO INSPECT THE
gossevassEnssnssseesenesneg
= MAMMOTH DRY GOODS ESTABLISHMENT
® Ss OF AZ @
6 WOODWARD & LOTHROP >
@
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Where the LATEST PARIS NOVELTIES are alway on Rete
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\ BRIDAL TROUSSEAUX
Is invited especially to extreme PARIS NOVELTIES in matched sets
of French Hand-made Lingerie, including Gowns, Skirts, Chemises,
Drawers, Corset Covers, &c. These can be furnished in aay number
of pieces desired.
HAND-MADE BRIDAL TROUSSEAUX, personally
selected in Paris and exclusive in style and 10 ee 250.
design: Three or more pieces é
CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. MAIL ORDERS RECEIVE PROMPT AND CAREFUL ATTENTION.
TENTH, ELEVENTH, AND F STREETS N. W. . . . . WASHINGTON, D. C,
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a DT Oe eee,
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(
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For tickets, rates or any dered information apply
to SOUS home agent or write to
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THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST.
The only American magazine devoted to the science of Anthropology in
all its branches is THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST, published at the
National Capital. This journal is now in its eleventh year of increasing
usefulness.
No magazine ever published on the Western continent is such a
storehouse of authentic information concerning ARCHEOLOGY, ETHNOL-
oGyY, FOLK-LORE, TECHNOLOGY, SocroLoGy, HIsTory, SOMATOLOGY,
PsYCHOLOGY, PHILOSOPHY, and PHILOLOGY. Its contributions to our
knowledge of these subjects, especially in so far as they relate to the
American Indians, past and present, are of world-wide authority. Its
contributors are America’s foremost scholars.
Is your name on the subscription list of the ANTHROPOLOGIST? If
not, it should be. No one interested in anthropology in any of its branches
can afford to be without it. Szbscribe today. A new volume begins with
the January number.
A bibliography of the anthropologic literature of the world is one of its features.
Handsomely Printed—Abundantly Illustrated.
Published Monthly—Two Dollars a Year.
; Volume XI Begins with January, 1898.
ADDRESS : THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST,
1804 Columbia Road, Washington, D. C.
COMMENCED JANUARY, 1888. TWO VOLUMES PER YEAR.
THE AMERICAN GEOLOGIST,
lieigles
The Oldest Exclusively Geological Magazine Published in America
TERMS.
To Subscribers in the United States, Canada and Mexico............. ... $3.50 a year
To other Subscribers in the Postal Union.......... RS IER Ce Ge ea aCe 4.00 a year
The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST is issued monthly from the office of publication at Minne-
apolis, Minnesota, United States of America. Twenty volumes are completed; the twenty-
first began with the number for January, 1898. The magazine has received a cordial
welcome and a generous support from leading geologists everywhere and it is now
recognized as the exponent of the rapid geological progress that is taking place on
the continent of North America, including Canada, the United States and Mexico. No-
where else in the world are geologic phenomena exhibited on a more extensive scale
and nowhere else are results attained of greater economic and scientific importance.
The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST lays before its readers from month to month the latest
results of geological work. In addition to the longer papers it gives synopses of recent
geological publications and brief notes on current geological events.
THE GEOLOGICAL PUBLISHING CO.,
Minneapouis, Minn,
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MONOGRAPHS ©
On the PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE EARTH’S SURFACE, designed especially to supply to teachers and
students of geography fresh and interesting material with which to supplement the regular text-book.
LIST OF MONOGRAPHS COMPRISING VOLUME I:
GENERAL PHYSIOGRAPHIC PROCESSES - - - - - -
GENERAL PHYSIOGRAPHIC FEATURES - - - - : > Ly. W. Powell
PHYSIOGRAPHIC REGIONS OF THE UNITED STATES - - -
BEACHES AND TIDAL MARSHES OF THE ATLANTIC COAST Prot. N. S. Shaler
PRESENT AND EXTINCT LAKES OF NEVADA - - - - Prof. I. C. Russell
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS—NORTHERN SECTION - - - Bailey Willis
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS—SOUTHERN SECTION - - , CC. Willard Hayes
MT. SHASTA—A TYPICAL EXTINCT VOLCANO - - - - J. S. Diller
THE NEW ENGLAND PLATEAU - - -,- - - - _ Prof. W. M. Davis
NIAGARA FALLS AND ITS HISTORY - = - - - - G. K. Gilbert
Price for one set of ten monographs, $1.50. Five sets toone address, $6.00. Single monographs, 20c.
Remit with order to AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY,
New York - Cincinnati 4 Chicago
Ripans Tabules assist digestion.
TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM
An International Quarterly Journal
Edited by: L. A. BAUER
With the Co-operation of Eminent Magneticians
Witz the March, 1898, issue, this Journal, devoted exclusively to Terrestrial Magnetism and allied
subjects, such as Earth Currents, Auroras, Atmospheric Electricity, etc., enteredon its third
volume. ‘The hearty co-operation extended by the workers in this promising field of investigation, as
abundantly shown by the numbers thus far issued, has made this Journal the international organ for
making known the latest achievements. The magnetic needle has become such a promising instrument
of research, not only in terrestrial, but in cosmical physics, that this Journal appeals to.a large-class of
investigators. The geographer, the geologist, the astronomer, the meteorologist—all are interested in
the development of the subject of terrestrial magnetism. It should therefore receive their support.
Among the contributors of the main articles in the past have been Messrs. Barus, B6rgen, Chree, Com-
mander Davis, Eschenhagen, Hellmann, Littlehales, McAdie, Rticker, Schmidt, Schuster, and de Tillo.
Future numbers will contain :
‘¢The Height of the Aurora,’’
By Pror. CLEVELAND ABBE.
‘¢ The Investigation of Hidden Periodicities in Terrestrial Magnetism
and Meteorology,’’
By Pror. ARTHUR SCHUSTER, F.R.S.
‘¢The Relation of Terrestrial Magnetism to Geology,”’
(As exhibited by recent investigations of various Authors.)
‘¢ Descriptions of Magnetic Observatories,’’
(Illustrated)
By THE DIRECTORS OF THE OBSERVATORIES.
The size of the Journal is royal octavo, a volume embracing about 200 pages. Domestic subscription
price: Two dollars; single numbers, fifty cents. Foreign subscription price: Nine shillings, nine
marks, or eleven francs. Address :
TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM,
The University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, Ohio.
4M Mi bi dW
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2D. BY THE NATION, Al) GBOGRAPHIC SOCIETY —
po
\ amy
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A. W.GREELY lw J Mc¢ HENRY aannert [
\ HART a EL ae suHAMas SCIDMORE Peo rear eis.
f } Ps.
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CONTENTS) A Seah f) Ng
; \ | Bivins ede ghee) PAGE 4)
ATRA'S WEST CQAST. | (DAVID, G. FAIRCHILD, 449
ith illustkations. \ I we fi
\ Soe a TNR ney / Were
DE OF \THE “OPEN TLANTIC? -_ Me
: \ MARK Ss. W, JEFFERSON. 465° Ne
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THE,
National Geographic Society
PRESIDENT
ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL
Vicr-PRESIDENT
W J McGEE
Boarp or MANAGERS
1896-1899 1897-1900 1898-1901
CHARLES J. BELL MARCUS BAKER A. GRAHAM BELL F
WILLIAM H. DALL HENRY F. BLOUNT HENRY GANNETT ;
DAVID T. DAY FEF. VY. COVILLE A. W. GREELY 3
G. K. GILBERT CG. HART MERRIAM JOHN HYDE E
HERBERT G. OGDEN WILLIS L. MOORE W J McGEE fae |
ELIZA R. SCIDMORE W. B. POWELL F. H. NEWELL
TREASURER
HENRY GANNETT
RECORDING SECRETARY CORRESPONDING SECRETARY ~
F. H. NEWELL a ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE
P
| SECRETARY’S OFFICE
Room 55, Ohio Bank Building, Twelfth and G Sts. N.W., Washington
i
TREASURER’S OFFICE i
U. S. Geological Survey, 1330 F St. N. W., Washington :
The National Geographic Society, the object of which is the increase and diffusion
of geographic knowledge, has a total membership of 1,600. Its membership is-not re-
stricted to practical geographers, but is open to any person in good standing who may
be sufficiently interested in its work to seek admission. The annual subscription is: for
active members, $5.00-per annum ; for corresponding members, $2.00 per annum. THE
NarionaL GroerapHic Maéazine is sent regularly to all members.
Donations for the founding of Prize Medals and Scholarships are
respectfully solicited.
iad
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
CHESAPEAKE & OHIO RY.
HE F. F. V. LIMITED is one of the finest trains hauled over any railway track in America. It runs
solid between Cincinnati and New York, the route from Washington being over the Pennsylvania
system. It has every modern convenience and appliance, and the dining-car service has no superior if
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from one end to the other; the greater portion is laid with one-hundred-pound steel rails, and although
curves are numerous in the mountain section, the ride is as smooth as over a Western prairie.
One of the most delightful rides in all the route is that through the New River valley. The
mountains are just low enough to be clad with verdure to the very top, and in the early spring every
variety of green known to the mixer of colors can be seen, while the tones in autumn take on all the
range from brown to scarlet.
These facts should be borne in mind by the traveler between the Kast and the West.
4 H. eae FULLER, Geni. Pass. Agent, Washington, D. C.
‘CALIFORNIA... q
OF course you ‘expect to go there this winter. Let
me whisper something in your ear. Be sure that
the return portion of your ticket reads viathe . . .
Northern Pacitic-Shasta Route.
Then you will see the grandest mountain scenery in AN
the United States, including Mt. Hood and It. Rainier,
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to make side trips into the Kootenai Country, where
_such wonderful new gold discoveries have been made, }
and to Yellowstone Park, the wonderland not only of
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begins June Ist each year. Close railroad connections “
made in Union Station, Portland, for Puget Sound
cities and the east, via Northern Pacific.
cs: CHAS. Ss. FEE, L
General Passenger Agent, St. Paul, Minn.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
2: SOUTHERN RAILWAY
GREATEST SOUTHERN SYSTEM.
Penetrates with its main line or branches eight States
South of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, and in con-
junction with its friendly allied connections reaches all
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DOUBLE DAILY VESTIBULED LIMITED TRAINS
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Norfolk and Chattanooga via Salisbury, Asheville and Knoxville.
Pullman Sleeping Cars—Dining Cars—Day Coaches.
Additional Trains for local travelers... ... .
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Winter Resorts of | - - - » MEXICO and CALIFORNIA,
——AND THE BEST——
Through Car Line to and from Asheville and Hot Springs—‘‘ The Land of the Sky.”’
Write for Map Folders.
A. S. THWEATT, Kastern Passenger Agent, 271 Broadway, New York, N. Y.
J.C. HORTON, Passenger Agent, 201 EK. Baltimore Street, Baltimore, Md.
L. S. BROWN, General Agent, 705 Fifteenth St. N. W., Washington, D.C.
W. H. DOLL, Passenger Agent, Norfolk, Va.
S. H. HARDWICK, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Atlanta, Ga.
Cc. A. BENSCOTER, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Chattanooga, Tenn.
W. H. TAYLOE, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Louisville, Ky.
J. M. CULP, Traffic Manager. W. A. TURK, General Passenger Agent.
The Mutual Life Insurance Co.
OF NEW YORK,
RICHARD A. McCURDY, President,
Is the Largest Insurance Company in the World. ;
The Records of the Insurance Department of the State of New
York SHOW THAT The Mutual Life
Has a Larger Premium Income - - - ($39,000,000)
More Insurance in Force - - “ - - ($918,000,000)
A Greater Amount of Assets - “ - ($235,000,000)
A Larger Annual Interest Income -_~ - ($9,000,000)
Writes More New Business’~ - - - ($136,000,000)
And Pays More to Policy-holders - - ($25,000,000 in 1896)
THAN ANY OTHER COMPANY.
It has paid to Policy-holders since
its organization, in 1843, } - + $487,009,195.29
ROBERT A. GRANNISS, Vice-President.
WALTER R. GILLETTE, General Manager. FREDERIC CROMWELL, Treasurer,
ISAAC F. LLOYD, Second Vice-President. EMORY McCLINTOCK, Actuary.
WILLIAM J. EASTON, Secretary.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
Aoute ST P AUL
fst, MINNEAPOLIS
Ripans Tabules cure headache.
Burlington
The Fastest and Finest Train in the West...
my [he Overland Limited
J Bus D i Meee TO...
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woe OVERLAND ROUTE.’
Double Drawing-Room Pullman Sleepers.
Free Reclining Chair Cars.
Pullman Dining Cars.
Buffet Smoking and Library Cars,
Send for Descriptive Pamphlet ‘ 49-96,’' E.L. LOMAX,
Folders and other Advertising Matter. General Passenger and Ticket Agent,
(Mention this publication.) OMAHA, NEB.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
THE CHICAGO, MILWAUKEE AND ST. PAUL RAILWAY
-RONS..
Electric Lighted and Steam Heated Vestibuled Trains between Chicago, Mil-
waukee, St. Paul and Minneapolis daily.
Through Parlor Cars on day trains between Chicago, St. Paul and Minneapolis.
Electric Lighted and Steam Heated Vestibuled Trains between Chicago and
Omaha and Sioux City daily.
Through Sleeping Cars, Free Reclining Chair Cars and Coaches between Chicago
and Kansas City, Mo.
Only two hours from Chicago to Milwaukee. Seven fast trains each way, daily,
with Parlor Car Service.
Solid trains between Chicago and principal points in Northern Wisconsin and
the Peninsula of Michigan.
Through Trains with Palace Sleeping Cars, Free Reclining Chair Cars and Coaches
between Chicago and points in lowa, Minnesota, Southern and Central Dakota.
The finest Dining Cars in the World.
The best Sleeping Cars. Electric Reading Lamps in Berths.
The best and latest type of private Compartment Cars, Free Reclining Chair
Cars, and buffet Library Smoking Cars.
Everything First-class. First-class People patronize First-class Lines.
Ticket Agents everywhere sell tickets over the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Ry.
GEO. H. HEAFFORD,
General Passenger Agent, Chicago, IlI.
WHENEVER YOU VISIT WASHINGTON. .
a
YOU ARE INVITED TO INSPECT THE eee
PSCOOESOOSOO ESOC OSS SOOO COS
+ MAMMOTH ORY GOODS ESTABLISHMENT
ns OF 27 @
WOODWARD & LOTHROP @
®
QOS SOOO @ OO OOOO SF OOS © OS OOOO S®
Where the LATEST PARIS NOVELTIES are always on au
The attention of those who anticipate purchasing
BRIDAL TROUSSEAUX
Is invited especially to extreme PARIS NOVELTIES in matched sets
of French Hand-made Lingerie, including Gowns, Skirts, Chemises,
Drawers, Corset Covers, &c. These can be sissies in any number
of pieces desired.
HAND-MADE BRIDAL TROUSSEAUx, personally
selected in Paris and exclusive in ohne and 10 to 250.
design: Three or more pieces 0
CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. MAIL ORDERS RECEIVE PROMPT AND CAREFUL ATTENTION.
TENTH, ELEVENTH, AND F STREETS N. W. . . . . WASHINGTON, D. C,
pe@oeeun
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Shortest Line
| St. Paul and Minneapolis
and the Northwest
CHICAGO
__ GREAT
“a. WESTERN
RAILWAY
For tickets, rates or any detailed information apply
to your home agent or write to
F. H. LORD,
Gen’! Pass’r and Ticket Agent,
CHICAGO.
De a En I I In ET IN a a, ea a A I I Ee EI
a aN i VN a Mi Va NN v Vv Ma ay
a SES
eae NNN ——»>~— = sa SN > a a >
AAAI AAA AAAI AAAI Abe
A VITAL POINT —====E
A ‘TYPEWRITER’S
PRINTING MECHANISM
VU
WU WWWwwwowiowvwwswwwuwswpwwwwwwwwr
ae B
IMPROVEMENT GO IDER OF THE AG .’*
SA PREM
SIRENS?
MUST BE SCIENTIFICALLY CON-
THIS POINT IS OF
STRUCTED.
UTMOST IMPORT FOR
EASY OPERATION AND
PERFECT EXECUTION.
Che Smith...
Premier
Cypewriter's
Superior on This Pocint as Well as on All Others.
i ee ath q
sae
Ne
He
: Sie
I ee The Smith Premier Typewriter Co.,
PRINCIPLES EMPLOYED. SYRACUSE, N. Y., U.S. A. é
DRIERADADRDARARDRARAIRAARARARARARR AAS
Catalogues and Information at Washington Office, No. 519 Eleventh Street.
DRERDRADRDRADRARADRADRARAN
nia
Sa ee
2 a PAS San SA
mr
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE
THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST.
The only American magazine devoted to the science of Anthropology in
all its branches is THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST, published at the
National Capital. This journal is now in its eleventh year of increasing
usefulness.
No magazine ever published on the Western continent is such a
storehouse of authentic information concerning ARCHEOLOGY, HETHNOL-
OGy, FOLK-LORE, TECHNOLOGY, SocioLoGy, History, SomMATOLOGyY,
PSYCHOLOGY, PHILOSOPHY, and PuiLoLocy. Its contributions to our
knowledge of these subjects, especially in so far as they relate to the
American Indians, past and present, are of world-wide authority. Its
contributors are America’s foremost scholars.
Is your name cn the subscription list of the ANTHROPOLOGIST? If
not, it should be. No one interested in anthropology in any of its branches
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National Geographic Magazine
Vou. IX NOVEMBER, 1898 No. 11
SUMATRA’S WEST COAST
By Davin G. FartrcHILp,
United States Department of Agriculture
The island of Sumatra is undoubtedly one of the most valuable
ofall the Dutch possessions inthe East. Its resources are almost
wholly undeveloped and its interior is scarcely even known, only
one or two expeditions ever having crossed the island in its
widest part. It contains a great variety of mineral and vege-
table products, and its trackless forests are filled with still un-
conquered tribes of men—remarkable cannibals among them—
numerous rhinoceroses, and large herds of elephants. It pos-
sesses a chain of verdure-clad voleanoes which give to its west
coast one of the most salubrious climates in the archipelago,
and its scenery surpasses in beauty the famous scenery of Java,
which has been called the most beautiful tropical island in the
world. The island is held by a small force of Dutch and native
soldiers and governed by a body of Dutch officials scattered
along the coast cities, whose control over the natives is more
moral than physical.
That such a marvelous island should have remained so long
comparatively unexplored simply illustrates the slowness with
which the work of exploration is being conducted by the Dutch
home government, which hampers in every way the movements
of the more progressive colonial government. As American in-
terests in the East are increasing, the readers of this magazine
may find acceptable a few notes regarding one of the largest and
certainly the most beautiful island of the whole archipelago.
Miss Scidmore has called Java the Garden of the East in her
3L
450 SUMATRA’S WEST COAST
charming account of travel among its miniature bamboo vil-
lages and paddy fields. Sumatra is compared by the Dutch,
although incomparably grander and totally different, to Switzer-
land. You approach Java with a feeling of how beautiful and
lovable everything seems, but as you steam into Emma harbor,
on Sumatra’s west coast, your mind is overpowered by the sight
of the verdure-covered volcanoes and trackless forests stretch-
ing away into the unknown and undiscovered.
ON THE WEST COAST OF. SUMATRA — EARLY MORNING
The western coast of this wonderful island, famed among the
Dutch as Het Boven Land van Sumatra, 1s as near a tropical Swit-
zerland (if such an appellation does not convey a confused no-
tion) as is to be found anywhere on the globe. New Zealand
can boast of glaciers of surpassing beauty, justly entitling it to
the place it holds as the Switzerland of the southern hemisphere,
but Iam confident that after the sources of the Amazon have-
been thrown open to the tourist and Orizaba has been surrounded
by winter hotels, the most luxuriant vegetation and most wildly
fascinating scenery in the world will be sought for among the
chain of volcanoes that forms the backbone of Sumatra.
SUMATRA’S WEST COAST 451
There are several ways of visiting Sumatra, none being very
direct, but the pleasantest is to take one of the comfortable
steamers of the Koninklijke Paketvaart-Maatschappij, either from
the island of Penang, where tourists call going either way around
the world, and steam west to the north point of the island and
southward along its western coast to Padang, the principal port,
or do as my friend Mr Barbour Lathrop.and I did, leaving
Batavia on the north coast of Java and steaming west through
the straits of Sunda past the famous volcano of Krakatua and
northward along the coast, stopping at Padang over one steamer
and catching the next, which landed us finally at Penang. The
city of Padang seemed on the first night of arrival one of the
hottest and wettest places it were possible for water and sunshine
to concoct; but where the sunlight pours down its rays perpen-
dicularly and the clouds every afternoon empty an almost un-
limited quantity of water, palms are able to live a life really be-
coming such royal representatives of the vegetable kingdom.
You feel oppressed with the inconceivable power of the living
matter, the protoplasm, which surrounds you. In temperate
regions you have become accustomed to the supremacy of man.
He cuts down and destroys and clears big patches of ground
free almost of every living thing. Here you feel as if the plants
merely tolerated your presence.
The hotels serve to distract your attention from nobler thoughts
by their insufficiencies and limited capacity. I have often won-
dered what a party of Cook’s tourists would do if they landed
and found only four or five beds at the disposition of new ar-
rivals and not sufficient bananas to go around. To be met at
your first meal in the tropicswhen you look forward to reveling
in the delicious new sorts of bananas with the incomprehensi-
ble statement of “tida ada lagi,” which, being interpreted by
your Dutch acquaintance, means “There are no more,” is a hard
and unforgetable experience, the more inexplicable since the level
plains about the town are filled with immense banana planta-
tions. One small banana is not enough for an appetite whetted
by along ocean voyage. ‘Thisis, however, an introduction to one
of the many peculiarities of the tropics which irritate you until
you find the absurdity of being irritated by the unavoidable.
Padang as a town has nothing to recommend it. Its public
buildings and houses are embowered in the most gorgeous trop-
ical vegetation, but, they themselves are plain, and look as if
they were moth-eaten. Termites work rapidly upon the corner
452 SUMATKAS WEST COAST
COURT-HOUSE NEAR PADANG PANDJANG, SUMATRA
posts, and decay soon makes new buildings old. Then, too, the
malarial plasmodium finds in the region a most congenial home,
and the pallid faces and slow gate of the Huropeans tell too
plainly of an unequal struggle between blood corpuscles and
the invading army of parasites. I do not know that Padang is
celebrated for its fevers, though it is certainly not a healthy
place. Butitis for other reasons that travelers do not stay long
in Padang. As the terminus of a most remarkable mountain
railroad, worthy of a Meiggs, one of the earliest cog railways
ever constructed for freight purposes, it affords the traveler un-
rivaled opportunities to “eet into the interior,” as explorers
express if. The Ombilin coal-fields send to Padang by means
of this road the coal for the Netherland steamship line, which
calls here bothin and out bound. It is nota great way from this
region that some of the petroleum fields have been discovered,
which the Standard Oil Company tried in vain to get control of,
SUMATRA’S WEST COAST 453
being checked, so the newspapers report, by asuspicious paternal
home government, which wishes to hold everything valuable in
its own hands. Stretches of low swampy jungle line the track
on both sides. Thickets of the Atap palm, with its creeping
stem and rigid upright leaves, whose leaflets flutter incessantly
in the shghtest breeze, rise out of deep weed-overgrown pools,
suggestive of all sorts of serpents, leeches, and water insects.
Immense plantations of bananas, overgrown with masses of tan-
gled morning glories, with their hght-blue blossoms, have crowded
out the more varied natural vegetation in places and stand as
evidences of the cultural skill and indomitable energy of those
greatest of all tropical colonizers, the Chinese.
But soon the train whirled us into the klof or gorge itself, and
for several hours our eyes were busy with scenes of the most
gorgeous freshness and beauty. The charm of tropical verdure
is largely due, I believe, to the abundance of broad-leaved plants
which it contains. Nothing illustrates this more than a com-
parison of such plants as the banana or talipot palm with a
South African fine-leaved heath or a North woods pine. As in-
dividuals all are beautiful, perhaps equally so; but the water-
colors of the tropics are painted in splashes and with a broad,
free hand, while the foliage of the temperate regions is painfully
etched on copper plate. This gorge is compared by the Dutch
with the Gotthard Strasse below Andermatt; but they belittle
it by such comparison, for the Klof van Aneh, with its countless
waterfalls, rushing mountain streams, cloud-covered hillsides,
and floating mists, added to its endless variety of flowering
shrubs, feathery fern fronds, waving palms, and tall, imposing
forest trees, makes a composition of the first rank among scenic
masterpieces and entitlés it to the first place on the line of the
world’s gallery. :
Padang Pandjang, a village some 700 meters above the sea-
level, with a comfortable hotel of brick and thatch, after the
Dutch style, forms a most delightful stopping place just above
the gorge. The natives here, although of the Malay race, are
quite distinct from those of the island of Java or the peninsula
of Malacca. They are a well-to-do, even wealthy race, and build
costly houses of indisputable beauty, making them of teak or
other wood, paneling them with great care, carving and paint-
ing them after patterns often of considerable taste and beauty.
The roof structures, with their gables rising one above the oth ew
resemble more those of the Siamese temples than any other
454 SUMATRA’S WEST COAST
Oriental structures. The floors of nearly all sag in the middle
and the ends of the houses are raised on high posts, frequently
earved and sometimes filled with bamboo wickerwork. ‘They
are often communal in nature, as many as three or four families
living in the same dwelling. In front of each dwelling-house
stands a small square building, more highly decorated often
than the house itself, which is used for a goedang or rice granary,
and no native compound of houses is complete without such a
goedang. The interiors of these houses are not without modern
HOTEL AT PADANG PANDJANG, SUMATRA
conveniences in the way of comfortable beds, with pillows and
canopies, the better of the latter being often decorated with
curious and showy pendent ornaments made entirely of the
white pith of some tropical plant. These houses are more com-
fortable than those of any other race in the Dutch East Indies,
and seem luxurious when compared with the dirty hovels of
the Maoris or the pebble-floored homes of the Samoans.
Although my friend and I were prepared by the enthusiastic
accounts of the Dutch officials to see a more comely race than
the Javanese in Sumatra, we were surprised and charmed by the
SUMATRA’S WEST COAST 455
\
picturesque and highly colored costumes of the natives. No-
where did we see these costumes so abundant or striking as at
a little market or passer half way to the larger market of Koeboe
Krambil, to which we drove behind a crazy pair of ponies in a
very uncomfortable “‘herdic.” There in a little clearing in the
dense vegetation about one of the prettiest of native public
houses, where public declarations are made and cock-fights wit-
nessed, was gathered the most effectively gaudy and picturesque
eroup of natives I had ever seen. Immense Roman and Heyp-
tian-like head-dresses, carefully colored sarongs tightly but grace-
fully folded about the shapely forms, jackets of soft, loosely
woven black, trimmed with gold and silver braid, and bracelets
and bangles in great profusion, reminded one of a gala day in
some Italian or Spanish town. But the most curious feature of
the native dress is their earrings, or ear-buttons, as they would
be more properly called, for they are sometimes an inch or more
in diameter and of light but solid metal. AI] stages in the prep-
aration of the ear for the reception of these buttons were to be
found. There were mere babies with a single small puncture,
SUMATRAN DWELLING-HOUSE, SHOWING BAMBOO WICKERWORK AND ELABORATE CARVING AND PANELING
456 SUMATRA’S WEST COAST
sweet-faced children of four with a coiled bit of springy banana
leaf rolled tightly and passed through the puncture to continu-
ally expand it to the proper diameter by the pressure of the
unrolling leaf, and graceful young belles with gold and silver
buttons tastefully elaborated as large as the top of an after-dinner
coffee cup. The young girls, we were told, could wear their ear-
rings or not as they chose, but if they knew how ugly they looked
when the buttons are removed and the lobe of the ear appears
as a loop of gristle which dangles and flaps against the cheek;
they would wear them always. Upon marriage, however, the
bride must wear the buttons, as with us the wedding ring. After
the birth of the first child, or when five years have elapsed, she
must take them out and lay them aside. The old women are
generally ugly, as they have buttonless ears, though as far as
their other features go they are remarkably well preserved.
Then, too, there is more significance in the dress of these natives
than there is in that of the Javanese. If a woman is poor she
wears a single dark skirt or sarong; if she is well-to-do she puts
a second more costly over it. covering all but the bottom; if
she is rich she puts on a third, covering the major part of the
second, and if she is very rich she dons a fourth. The strange
earved and gilded light wooden head-dresses and still stranger
box-like bracelets, as well as the delicately formed bangles and
diamond-set pins and bracelets, one of which we priced and
found to be worth $150, testify to a skill as gold-workers which
rivals that of the natives of British India. The golden sarongs,
for which the women ask $50 or more apiece, are too somber
and in this regard are disappointing, lacking that originality of
pattern we are used to attribute to the Orient. The silver fili-
gree work of the men, were you not on the other side of the
world, you would swear was made in Mexico, it so nearly re-
sembles it in fineness of detail and originality of design. Their
beaten ware and heavier pieces are distinctly interior to the
British Indian work.
The surroundings of Padang Pandjang rival the famous scenes
from the little Javanese town of Buitenzorg, accounted one of the
three or four most beautiful spots in the world. The sunsets
over the voleanoes Singgalang and Merapi, with their low-drift-
ing clouds of peculiar violet, purple, and lilac hues, form sights
never to be forgotten. The famous sunsets in the Indian ocean
are no more wonderful. Pathways lead off from the well-trav-
eled road at every turn, and you have only to follow one of these
SUMATRA’S WEST COAST 457
SUMATRAN BRIDE AND GROOM
From a photogravh by David G. Fairchild
for a few minutes to find yourself in the midst of the most lux-
uriant forest, with overtowering bamboos and treeferns, palms
and flowering shrubs, thickets of impenetrable rattan palms, low
bushes over which immense numbers of large black ants are
running, moist moss-covered banks, a tangled mass of liverworts,
filmy ferns, and lichens, with here and there an insect so closely
resembling the bits of lichen that even an expert entomologist
might pass it by unnoticed. Close by the path, in one of the most
fascinating of these many valleys, there was growing a clump of
45
D
SUMATRA?S WEST COAST
bamboo, some of the shoots of which, although eighty feet or
more in height, were evidently newly grown, with leaves still
immature. I shook one of these young shoots hghtly with my
hands, and, to my surprise, the whole top, fifteen feet or more
in length, snapped off, and, falling at my feet, was broken into
ahalf dozen fragments. Few experiences could give one a better
idea of the rapid growth of plants in the tropics than this—
erowing like a giant asparagus shoot at the rate of a foot or more
a day, in a short three months it is a tree of the forest towering
above the tops of many century-old monarchs, and yet, after all,
it is botanically nothing but a grass.
Though acquainted with the luxuriance of vegetation for which
Java is justly celebrated, I was little prepared for the overwhelm-
ing exuberance of growth around Padang Pandjang, and when
the time came for us to leave I was almost ready to abandon the
enticing trip already promised me by my friend in favor of a
little longer sojourn amid its beauties.
Fort de Kock, our next stopping-place—940 meters above the
sea—is known all over the Dutch Hast Indies as a sanitarium
ROW OF SUMATRAN HOUSES NEAR FORT DE KOCK, SHOWING CURIOUS GABLES
SUMATRA’S WEST COAST 459
forthe Dutch army. Officers and men are sent there from other
portions of the archipelago to recover from the malarial fever or
the berri-berri, the two most prevalent and dangerous diseases
of this portion of the world. The cool, dry mountain air soon
fits them for active service again. The town itself has little of
interest. he hotel, filled as it is with convalescent soldiers and
their faithful wives, is poor enough, being kept by half-castes
with more kindliness than business ability. ‘The surrounding
country is open prairie, dotted with clumps of bamboo and bits
of thick woodland, and makes a very different impression from
the scenery about Padang Pandjang. The native villages, sur-
rounded by fruit trees and patches of upland rice, contain a well-
to-do race of people, some of whom manufacture jewelry, ex-
pensive gold-woven cloths, and beaten silverware, Kota Gedong
being the center for this kind of work. It was interesting to no-
tice the independence of the native women, which in fact is one
of their marked characteristics, either an outgrowth or conse-
quence of their marriage customs. A man and woman upon
marrying do not form a home of their own, but the husband re-
mains among his own circle of relations and resides only tempo-
rarily with his wife. The children remain with her and inherit
all her property and a half of that earned by their father and
mother together. The remaining half goes to their father’s sisters
or to the children of those. sisters.
From Fort de Kock to the little village of Pajo Kombo, the
end of this branch of the railroad,is only a few miles. It is the
farthest inland town that can be reached by rail, and its principal
street, a broad, straight avenue of casuarinas, is lined on either
side with innumerable small villages and curious messigits or
Mohammedan temples. Near the center of this avenue isa large
open square or market-place, in which on “ Passar” or market
days the natives gather with their curious wares. It is on such
market days that the Pajo Kombo women, noted all over the
Dutch East Indies for their beauty, are to be seen array ed in their
costly sarongs and decked out with their bangles, ear-buttons,
and bracelets. Whether or not we really saw a special market
or Passar besar I do not know, but there were thousands of people
there whose costumes to our eyes did not compare favorably
with those worn at the modest little passar near Padang Pand-
jang. Few sights can surpass a Malay passar, however, in in-
terest. There is a wonderful array of strange fruit and vege-
tables, devices for striking fire, children’s toys, ornaments for
460 SUMATRA’S WEST COAST
SUMATRAN MESSIGIT OR TEMPLE, NEAR PAJO KOMBO
From a photograph by David G. Fairchild
head-dresses, cooking utensils, cloths of bright but tastefully
blended colors, and a whole host of light refreshments—palm
wines, peanut cheeses covered with heavy growths of green and
yellow molds, pineapple sauces, inviting-looking curries, and
cooling drinks innumerable. The live-stock market near by
showed that the resources of the island in this direction were
excellent, as cattle after the Alderney type, and hogs, tough little
ponies, goats, and Indian buffalo were exhibited in profusion.
One visits Pajo Kombo because it is the nearest point to the
klof or gorge of Harau and the waterfalls of Batang-Harau,
called by the Dutch the Lauterbrunnen and Staubbach respect-
ively of their Indies. It is curious to note how the Dutch com-
pare scenes in Sumatra with noted points of interest in Switzer-
land, whereas in fact there is little comparison and absolutely
no similarity, the rugged grandeur of Switzerland in no sense
recalling the foliage-softened outlines of Sumatra. An hour’s
ride in an uncomfortable native cart bréught us to the entrance
of this little-known but certainly most wonderful gorge. As we
SUMATRA’S WEST COAST 461
approached, the tall gray marble cliffs rose perpendicularly before
us to a height of 200 or 300 meters; on either side, like silken
threads, we counted fifteen waterfalls tumbling down from the
table-land above. The niches and crevices of this gray marble
formed footholds for the most varied of tropical plants, and these
in their growth covered great patches with luxuriant verdure or
brilliant coloring. Bathed in spray from the waterfalls, there
were countless tropical ferns and lichens, algee, liverworts, and
mosses. Through the gorge, at places not more than 70 feet
wide, flowed a stream of clear water, its banks and bed clothed
with insectivorous water plants and overhung with flowering
shrubs and rank growing grasses and sedges. The fall of Batang-
Harau suggests by its height and volume the Staubbach near
Lauterbrunnen, but at its foot is a mass of moss and fern-covered
boulders instead of the barren shale, worn by tourists’ feet. In-
stead of the flower-covered carpet of the Alps the narrow valley
was filled with palms, rank grasses, small rubber trees, and a
host of strange shrubs and flowering plants, among them curious
melastomas anda large orange-fruited fig which decorated the
SUMATRAN MESSIGIT OR TEMPLE, WITH PRIEST IN FOREGROUND—PAJO KOMBO
462 SUMATRA’S WEST COAST
cliffs with its fruit and foliage. No orchids were to be seen any-
where in the gorge, and it is possible that they had been taken
out by some orchid-hunter.
After a morning spent in exploring the resources of this won-
derful gorge, we returned to the comfortable little hotel at Paja
Kombo, where that most remarkable of rice lunches, the 77s
tafel, was being prepared for us. The next morning we returned
by rail to Padang Pandjang and passed again through the Klof
yan Aneh, where drifting clouds and occasional showers served
to heighten the glory of its scenery.
The comfortable steamer JMaetsuicker of the Royal Packet
Company, the great steamship monopoly of the archipelago, was
at anchor the next day at Emma harbor when we arrived by
train from Padang. Over five hundred soldiers were ticketed to
leave by her, and the wharf was swarming with the soldiers and
their wives. It was not either, as might be expected, a scene of
leave-taking, for in the Dutch Indian army the soldiers take
their wives with them into the field—that is, a certain number
of them chosen by lot for each company—native wives, be it
understood. Decks were strewn with blankets and camp uten-
sils and every available inch of space was occupied. They were
all bound for Atjeh, the northern point of the island, where for
the last 25 years the Dutch have been trying to conquer one of
the most warlike and stubborn races of savages in all the Orient.
For several months past the Dutch troops had been unusually
active in Atjeh, or Achin, as it is called in English, and this ac-
counted for the large body of troops going north at this time.
Little or nothing regarding these movements of the Dutch troops
against the Achinese gets into our press, but nevertheless they
are of a serious nature and entail yearly the sacrifice of many
lives and the expenditure of large sums of money. ‘That their
campaigns are not prosecuted with that vigor which would seem
to an American necessary and economical can scarcely be ques-
tioned, but certainly the difficulties of climate and position are
great and the bravery and persistence of the Dutch troops, who
sooner or later fall victims to the dreaded malaria, are of the
most praiseworthy character.
The journey by sea up the west coast of Sumatra, unless it
be made on one of the small coasting steamers, is generally un-
eventful. The low-lying islands of Nias and Poelo Tello, how-
ever interesting to a naturalist or ethnologist, are only low-lying
islands of little interest as seen from the vessel. ‘Two whole
SUMATRA’S WEST COAST 463
days steaming brought us to anchor in the roadstead of Oleh-leh,
the port of the old capital of Achin, the fortified town of Kota
Radja.
Under the kind escort of the captain we landed that Christmas
morning and drove from the port a distance of several miles to
Kota Radja. The city, which contains some 20,000 inhabitants,
is surrounded by a ten-foot iron picket fence, through which
access is gained at carefully guarded gateways. Inside the town
lies the walled fort, where the officers’ quarters are found, and
which is also guarded, so that in case of a general attack it
may form a place of retreat. A string of some fourteen forts
and blockhouses has been thrown—horseshoe-like with either
end on the coast—about the town of Kota Radja and are all
connected by a narrow-gauge railroad with each other and with
Kota Radja itself. The coaches are provided with iron plating
and serve for the transport of supplies, of troops, and seemingly
of school children as well, for,as we made our visit to the block-
houses along the line, some bright-looking girls scrambled in,
books in hand, bound for the day school in Kota Radja, and
they seemed quite as unconcerned as if no war was in progress
and heedless of the fact that from the jungle in the near distance
might at any time issue a hail of bullets.
These forts and blockhouses contain from 150 to 700 men
each and several Maxim guns. They are made of piles 10 or
more feet high, driven closely together, and are protected by a
mass of wire stretched over low iron posts, barbed-wire fences,
and a broad border of century plants arranged in closely planted
rows; in fact, everything uncomfortable to bare feet is thrown
about these stockades: Fora half mile or more about this line
of blockhouses the forest is entirely cleared away, leaving a
clean sweep for the Maxim guns, while inside the line of railway
the friendly natives are allowed to plant their rice. They are
prevented, however, from harvesting it until they shall bave
spied out and delivered to the Dutch for punishment a certain
number of their warlike neighbors.
It would be hard to imagine a more uninteresting life than
that led by the officers and soldiers who garrison these block-
houses. Narrow, low houses, with a single thickness of corru-
gated iron to keep out the heat of that burning tropical sun, few
trees or often none to shed a grateful shade, and no intercourse
with the outside world save through the occasional newspaper
or magazine—no seasons, no change from the daily routine of
464 SUMATRA’S WEST COAST
the tropics—it is no wonder that cases of insomnia are frequent
and insanity one of the most dreaded of results. There are no
more touching instances to be found of self-sacrifice than those
of the wives of Dutch officers in Achin, who prefer short lives
with their husbands under such uncomfortable conditions to
long lives at home in snug little Holland.
On our return to Kota Radja we were shown through the
truly wonderful army hospital, where patients both civil and
military are cared for, and where, between April 24 and Decem-
ber 24 of 1896, 1,265 cases of wounded men and several thousand
civilians and soldiers, for diseases other than those arising from
wounds, were treated. The minor cases were treated in the hos-
pitals of the various forts, and when we take into consideration
the heavy per cent of deaths we get an idea o¢ the serious nature
of the fighting. One corner was occupied by the cholera huts—
temporary structures which are burned after each patient is
treated and buried—for, according to the commanding surgeon’s
statement, no real cases of Asiatic cholera have. in his experience,
yielded to treatment. Achinese, Dutch, or Malay soldiers are
faithfully treated, and though the Achinese, as soon as well and
free, sometimes escape and return to their people to fight against
the Dutch, when picked up as wounded prisoners they receive
as careful treatment as though they were loyal subjects.
Leaving Oleh-leh late that night after a charming experience
of Dutch hospitality, we anchored next morning off Seegli, con-
sidered the most dangerous benteng or fort in Sumatra. Later
in the day we landed at Telok Semawe, a fort further down the
coast, protected by a most formidable series of high barbed-wire
fences and agave. There was an air about these blockhouses or
bentengs reminding one forcibly of the Indian blockhouses of
our forefathers, and should we see fit to undertake the control
of such an archipelago as the Philippines, the training of our reg-
ulars as Indian fighters would come into excellent play, though
the races there are perhaps not comparably as stubborn as these
long, lithe muscular Achinese.
The trip from Telok Semawe to Penang was uneventful, and
both my friend and I felt that in seeing this corner of the world
our eyes had been opened to a war of more importance than we
had either of us dreamed of finding there, and to the beauties
of an island which has probably no equal for tropical beauty
and grandeur in the world.
Wit wie liS tht i DE Or tHE OPEN: ATEANTIC?™
By Marx 8. W. JEFFERSON
The writer has sought to collect the known facts of the tides
of Atlantic North America and study them in relation to the
geography.
At the present date the mathematical theory of the tides has
reached a considerable degree of perfection. The theory of geo-
graphic influences can hardly be said to have been formulated.
Analysis has succeeded in predicting the tides of tomorrow from
those of yesterday, but no description of shore configuration and
submerged topography will yet enable the mathematician to
predict the time and height of the tide at an unknown port.
Give him a series of observations at that place, and he will learn
from them the local constants and compute the future tides with
accuracy. ‘This is indeed the only end he has had in view, and
it is of great practical importance. The results now accumu-
lated are sufficiently accurate and numerous to deserve compar-
ative study. Furthermore, much light is shed upon this study
by the hints that analysts have dropped by the way, if a layman
may venture to interpret them. But for Ferrel’s ‘‘ Treatise on
Tides ” the present paper could not have been written. Most
readers would find the mathematical work veiled in mystery,
and not all mathematicians condescend to draw aside the veil.
Diurnal inequality, for instance, affects low water little or none
and high water much. <A mathematician states that harmonic
analysis shows it must be so, and we may get what enlighten-
ment from it we can.
In such a study one is immediately struck by the twofold
aspect of the problem:
(1) The tides of theory reside in the deep ocean.
(2) The tides of observation belong to the margins of the land.
Data given for tides in the open ocean refer merely to the
shores of oceanic islands, and it should be borne in mind that
tides on the ocean do not admit of measurement by any means
as yet at our command, though it is not inconceivable that a
gauge might be lowered to the ocean floor which should record
* Extract from Thesis in research course in Geography at Haryard University.
32 465
466 WHAT IS THE TIDE OF THE OPEN ATLANTIC?
fluctuations of pressure by means of’an electrical communica-
tion with the surface.
All study of the tides must therefore proceed from the shores.
SUBDIVISION OF AREA
The tidal stations for our area fall naturally into two groups
as regards distribution in (1) the land-locked waters of the shore
itself and (2) the shallow waters bordering North America on
the east. Brief notes on the tides of the first area (estuarine)
have already been published in the September number of this
magazine. Certain water bodies of form not unlike the estuaries
there studied could not be included in that paper from the
anomalous character of their tides. These are the Bay of Fundy,
Vineyard sound, Buzzards bay, Narragansett bay,and Long Island
sound. For these waters and the general tidal phenomena of
the shallow offshore waters we get light from the consideration
of the tides in the open Atlantic, and we immediately see that
the older view of the ocean tides is in conflict with the facts now
widely observed. This was the view of the progressive wave
and the cotidal lines. Many difficulties are smoothed over by
limiting this conception to the shallower shore waters and sup-
posing the ocean basin to be the seat of a stationary wave with
vibration period adjusted to the motion of the moon.
PROGRESSIVE AND STATIONARY WAVES
A pebble dropped into still water’ sends circling ripples in
every direction from the point of plunge. The ripple is a little
wave that travels off till overcome by frictional resistances or
stopped by the shore. It isa progressive wave. To form it a
number of water particles in succession move up, forward, down,
and back, as may be noted by floating sticks and straws. Such
a wave is produced at or off the mouths of estuaries and travels
up them. The velocity is supposed to be that acquired by a
body falling freely through one-half the depth of water.*
If you lift one side of a basin or tub partly filled with water
and quickly lower it again, the water within oscillates as a whole
in a time dependent for any one vessel on the depth of water.
The water on opposite sides rises and falls, up at one side when
down on the other. Along a line across the center there is no
*To make this available in rivers we need a formula for integrating the varying
depth and recognition of the effect of width. Now that the Delaware has been gauged,
such a study is possible.
WHAT IS THE TIDE OF THE OPEN ATLANTIC? 467
vertical motion. It is a stationary wave with a central node.
As with a pendulum, successive oscillations are in the same
period, but the period may be changed by changing the depth
of water. If the nodal axis lies north and south, as when the
east end of the vessel has been lifted, the motion of the water
particles is simultaneously to the west, then simultaneously to
the east. <A fall on the east corresponds to a rise on the west,
the amount of rise and fall depending on distance from the node
and (much more) on local configuration. Stationary waves may
be studied in a tumbler of water, and the experiment should be
tried.
THE EARLIER VIEW
It is usual in tidal discussions to assume a general case of con-
venient conditions and come later to the real problem—the tides
in the case of nature. The general case supposed was a sphere
uniformly covered with water. The moon was considered to
have the power of heaping up the waters at the points of the
earth nearest to itself and farthest away. ‘The deepening of the
waters at these two points would be accompanied by a shallow-
ing around a circle equatorial to these points as poles. Thus
the ocean would assume the shape of a prolate spheroid with
longer axis always pointed at the moon. The earth would always
have its two high waters at its opposite points, with low waters
between. In the mean 6h. 18m.—a half lunar day—would in-
tervene between high and low and between low and high. This
spheroidal shell would seem to revolve about the earth with the
moon, alternately elevating and depressing the water surface of
any place. The first assumption to reject for the actual world
is the earth’s uniform envelope of ocean. The Atlantic is barred
east and west by continents. The apices of a tidal spheroid can-
not come to this water body in a daily swing about the earth.
When the moon is over the eastern border of the ocean it might
heap the waters there in a tide that would accompany it in its
apparent westward path across the ocean; but at the American
continent this action must for the moment cease. Hach ocean
would see the birth and death of a tidal wave at its eastern and
western bounds.
Below the southern continents, in latitude 60°,is a ring of
continuous ocean, with tides probably simultaneous, 180° apart.*
This belt alone, then, conforms to ideal conditions. It is hard to
* South Georgia and Aukland island, near this circle, are distant 9h. 15m. of longi-
tude; their tides differ in time 9h. 47m.
468 WHAT IS THE TIDE OF THE OPEN ATLANTIC?
say when the idea of deriving tides from this southern ocean arose.
Lieut. J. Cook, reporting tidal observations for the south Pacific,
asserted, in 1772,* ‘Iam fully convinced that the flood comes
from the southward, or rather from the southeast.” Laplace
seems to have entertained a similar idea for the Atlantic, and
assigned a day and a halfas the time it took a wave to come from
the “‘ main ocean.”
The earliest attempt to draw cotidal lines was in 1807, by Dr
Thomas Young.f Itis asketch of the British islands, with coasts
~
ll
)
aa
\>< x
E )
Figure 1
of France and Norway and progressive tidal lines. The lines
were drawn straight, crossing the English channel nearly at right
angles to its axis, and in other places springing squarely off from
the shores. Ina supplement to the Encyclopeedia Britannica,
written in 1823, Dr Young sugvested the tracing of cotidal lines,
indicated sources of data, declared the scheme impracticable,
but collected and reduced the data for 150 stations, and described
* Phil. Trans., 1772, p. 357.
7 Lectures on Natural Philosophy, vol. i, pl. xxxviii.
WHAT IS THE TIDE OF THE OPEN ATLANTIC? 469
the general course of a tidal wave advancing up the Atlantic at
least as far as Gibraltar.
Dr William Whewell took up the investigation in the thirties.
From all the charts, sailing directions, and ocean pilots he could
obtain, he computed cotidal hours for points all over the world,
being the time of high water on the day of new or full moon.
From these data he traced the progression of the tide up the
Atlantic to the coasts of Europe and America, deriving it from
the belt of ocean to the south. He published his cotidal chart
in 1838.* He was fully conscious of the very crude data given
him at times by observers who fancied the tides always occurred
at the same hour,and he closed. his first essay with the warning
that the results were only tentative. Figure 1 reproduces the
Atlantic portion of this chart.
Dr Whewell was moved by this lack of good data to seek the
codperation of the admiralty to have careful observations made
simultaneously at least about the British shores. He not only
accomplished this, but was enabled in 1835? to publish obser-
vations made according to his instructions at 666 stations in
America and Kurope, with two at the Cape of Good Hope, for
every tide between the 8th and 28th of June of that year. The
ereater part of these were about the British isles, and for this
revion he published a revision of his chart. For the American
coast he contented himself with pointing out some errors in his
first chart. The rest of the chart he abandoned until a wide
range of good observations should be at hand.
DIFFICULTIES OF THE EARLIER VIEW
Now defects in the general scheme of cotidals are defects in
the theory of a wave progressing up the Atlantic from the south.
These defects Whewell found to be based on (1) the extraordi-
nary manner in which the cotidals contour about the lands,
together with the difficulty of including the oceanic islands in
the system, and (2) the great difference of epoch of the diurnal
wave in Hurope and America, together with the identical epoch
in Spain and at the Cape of Good Hope, supposed to be sepa-
rated by a long journey up the Atlantic.
* Phil. Trans., 1833, p. 147. This chart is reproduced in numberless excellent works,
though abandoned by its author in the first two years of its existence, and it is usually
reproduced, even in America, without the correction the author indicated for the xiih.
line on our coast. Thus in Young’s General Astronomy, for instance, 1889, p. 287.
7 Phil. Trans., 1836, p. 289.
470 WHAT IS THE TIDE OF THE OPEN ATLANTIC?
A comparison of Whewell’s two maps of British cotidals, fig-
ures 38-4, with Dr Young’s 1807 sketch, figure 2, shows the grow-
ing appreciation of the contouring tendencies of cotidals. With
the abundance of fairly good
data at hand today, it is every-
where observed that cotidal
lines adjust themselves closely
to the shore line. With rea-
sonable depth, it is quite usual
for high water to appear far up
a bay as early as at its mouth.
High water reaches the head
of Placentia bay, Newfound-
land, about a half hour before
it reaches the headlands on
either side of the mouth, as
may be seen on the accompa-
nying sketch, figure 5, where
three stations are shown, at
the bay head and at either
side of the entrance. The up-
per figures at each place indicate the interval between high
water at St Johns and local high water. The lower figure indi-
cates the tidal range in feet. From the line of 100 fathoms it is
Figure 2
Fiaure 4
WHAT IS THE TIDE OF THE OPEN ATLANTIC? 471.
evident that the impulse is transmitted to the various stations
with a delay dependent on distance from the deeper water, yet
there is no tide of the progressive estuarine type. This failure
is complete in the three
characteristics of time,
range, and front steepen-
ing, since the interval
from high water to low
water is 6h. 13m. at all
three stations, implying
equal front and back
slopes in the tide wave.
Buzzards bay has tides
that reach almost all its
shores at the same time,
as if originating at some
point central to the bay.
Dr Bache, in 1864, noted
the essential feature that
its tides are nearly syn-
chronous at the head and
all about the bay. ‘To oe 2
illustrate this, figure 6, besides showing the tidal interval for
each station from No Mans Land, shows also the 30m. cotidal.
There is certainly no progression up the bay here, nor is there
any perceptible increase in tide ranges.
\\
4
W ey ‘his S\\
¥ a ved AN AN
a\atint\\y \\
ne ue le) A. \ sx So
9 ie a OL i’ we W58
te
QWs y a6
Le) ig
FIGuRe 6
472 WHAT IS THE TIDE OF THE OPEN ATLANTIC?
The duration of rise is greater than that of fall, and grows still
more so up the bay.
Westport, bay mouth: rise 6h. 31m., fall 5h. 54m.
Wareham R., bay head: rise 6h. 55m., fall 5h. 80m.
This is anomalous, yet it is to be remembered that there is no
progression between these. points—the tide reaches them about
the same time.
Narragansett bay is an undoubted drowned river, or rather
two of them. The several channels complicate the topography.
The ranges mount up from 06.1 feet and 3.6 feet at the entrance
to 4.9 feet at Nayat point. Thence it diminishes to 4.4 feet at
Providence. Even here the close adjustment of cotidals to shore
contours appears in the fact of nearly simultaneous high water
at Sakonnet, Prudence hight, and Point Judith. The lingering
rise of the tide noted in Buzzards bay appears here also.
Bay mouth: rise 6h. 25m., fall 6h.
3ay head: rise 7h. 5m., fall 5h. 10m.
The bay-head observation is at Providence, where there is
some tidal progression. In this case, then, the wave has be-
come less steep-fronted as it advances.
In Vineyard sound again the cotidals are seen to be contour-
ing ones and strongly contouring. It is difficult to comprehend
how this can be a local development of a long wave front pro-
eressing across the Atlantic. Only from Gay Head to Woods
Holl are there clear signs of progression.
In the Bay of Fundy high water reaches points near the head
of the main bay a few minutes before reaching the Maine coast,
just outside the bay entrance. Long Island sound gives another
surprising illustration of the same tendency. ‘This conception
of a contouring wave front seems to introduce an element of con-
fusion. There is something very reasonable, simple, and satis-
factory in the earlier idea of a long wave-crest, straight or only
gently curving on a long radius; yet even in the shallow waters
that rear up considerable waves this view is seen to be untenable.
Thus the tide reaches Sandy Hook 380 to 45 minutes earlier than
points farther out to east and south; so also in St Peters bay,
Cape Bretonisland. As already stated, this contouring tendency
of the cotidals became evident to Dr Whewell as soon as he had
eood data to work on. He saw that on the Atlantic coast of
North America, too, the lines must be bent along shore, though
he did not draw them.
Airy, in the Encyclopedia Metropolitana, suggests that the
WHAT IS THE TIDE OF THE OPEN ATLANTIC? 473
cotidal line is to be regarded as the crest-line of a great wave,
sweeping from shore to shore, as it might be seen by an eye far
above the earth. The characteristic feature of such a wave is
that every point of the ocean is regarded as first rising, then
falling. Such was probably Whewell’s conception, and it is wide-
spread today ; yet with the abundant data of today it is not pos-
sible to comprehend how a progressing wave should adapt itself
so completely to the shores as is found to be the case. An ad-
vancing wave would doubtless tend to adjust itself to the shores
of an estuary, but the adjustment observed is more than a
tendency.
Opposed to this conception is that of a stationary wave, con-
ceived to have a medial point without vertical motion, called a
node. Contemporaneous with arise of water on one side of this
node occurs a fall on the other. For the ocean there is no pro-
eression of high water; the whole water body swashes alternately
east and west. For an ocean to oscillate about a node in adjust-
ment to the moon’s apparent motion is only possible with a
given relation between depth and width. By counting the os-
cillations in 5 or 10 seconds with various depths of water in a
bowl or tumbler, the reader may satisfy himself that for each
combination of width and depth there is a constant period of
oscillation. If the North Atlantic, has such an oscillation in a
period of a Junar half day, it must have the width and depth
that correspond.
GROWTH OF THE LATER VIEW
The first suggestion of such an oscillation was by Young: *
“We may therefore consider the Atlantic as a detached sea about
3,500 miles long and 5 miles deep.” The depth he assumes from
theoretical considerations. He considers that the wave from the
southern ocean might meet the local oscillation about Gibraltar,
when it would doubtless superpose itself upon it. The moon’s
relation to the motion of the detached ocean is thus suggested
by Dr Young:t “The oscillations of the sea, . . . consti-
tuting the tides, are subject to laws exactly similar to those of
pendulums capable of performing similar vibrations in the same
time and suspended from points which are subjected to
regular vibrations,of which the . . . periods are completed
* Natural Philosophy, vol. 1, p. 581.
+ Nicholson’s Journal, 1813, August, p. 217.
474 WHAT IS THE TIDE OF THE OPEN ATLANTIC?
in halfalunar.. . . day.” Justas the hand that supports
a pendulum may maintain its motion by a gentle lateral move-
ment, so the moon’s attraction may apply a periodic impulse to
a body of water deep and wide enough to oscillate in half a
lunar day, and thus make its oscillations perpetual.
Admiral Fitzroy,* in 1868, republished some suggestions of
his own of earlier date, that the North Atlantic tides (among
others) seemed better accounted for as an “‘‘ oscillation, as of
water in a basin; ora libration, as a mass of jelly,” than asa
progression of a southern tide wave. His argument points to
irregularities in any system of cotidals, the absence of signifi-
cant tide in the Plata estuary, opening fairly to the supposed
ocean tide, and the relation between times of high water on op-
posite shores. In the North Atlantic he found high water on
the American shore fairly synchronous with low water in Ku-
rope. In 1879 Mr Henry Mitchellf pointed out that high tide
is fairly synchronous from Newfoundland to Hatteras, omitting
the Gulf of Maine. Moreover, along this outer coast flood tide
current sets to southwest and ebb to northeast. These two facts
and the phenomena of the Gulf of Maine are more intelligible
_on the hypothesis of an oscillating North Atlantic than on any
other. The current would result from the northeast-southwest
trend of the coast, confining an ocean oscillating east and west,
a portion of the westward motion being resolved parallel to the
coast.
THE STATIONARY WAVE IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
It has been noted above that Dr Whewell’s data of 1836 showed
him that the American cotidals were imperfect. Though he did
not redraw the line, he stated that the xii-hour cotidal should
be nearer the coast, and Dr Bache? drew it closely contouring
from Nantucket to Hatteras and south. . It is well established
now that, omitting the Gulf of Maine and other enclosed areas,
the tides are fairly synchronous from New Foundland to Florida.
The great Atlantic oscillation belongs to the deep basin. Across
the continental shelf, both east and west, the disturbance 1s trans-
mitted as a progressive wave. and of course delayed in trans-
mission. Asarough outline of the Atlantic basin, I have dotted
in figure 1 the portions less than 2,000 fathoms deep, not that
* Weather Book, Appendix on Tides.
+Ann. Report U. 8. Coast and Geodetic Survey, p. 175.
t{ Ann. Report U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, 1857.
WHAT IS THE TIDE OF THE OPEN ATLANTIC? 475
the continental shelf attains anything like that depth, but the
descent from the shelf on east and west falls rapidly to that fig-
ure. The ocean basin is thus slightly larger than the parts leit
white on this sketch.
The Atlantic basin is seen to approach much nearer the Span-
ish and African coasts than the American or the English and
Scandinavian. Sable island, east of Nova Scotia, hes close to
the margin of the continental shelf and has its high water 6h.
28m. after high water on the west coast of Spain and about two
hours before the actual American coast farther west, just as the
Spanish coast has its tides earlier than the British isles and
northern Europe generally, where a true progressive wave exists
and travels across the shallow waters. This oceanic basin is so
shaped and proportioned as to possess an oscillation period of
half a lunar day, and twice a day the moon’s attraction inclines
its surface now east, now west. The figures for Sable island and
Spain show that low water on the east coincides with high water
on the west. As the ocean basin is not bounded by straight lines,
every tongue of deep water that advances among shallows toward
the land transmits the tidal impulse synchronously with the
swaying of the Atlantic. In the shallows progressive waves
carry the impulse further. Whole bays respond to the oceanic
movement, and only in exceptional areas can cotidals be truly
drawn. The Irish channel in Whewell’s second chart and the
Gulf of St Lawrence well illustrate the limitations of the cotidal.
The great coastwise ebb and flow of the Atlantic currents govern
the long lines of bars and sand islands of the eastern United
States.
It is noteworthy that the. so-called Atlantic ridge, really a
broad, gentle swell, must occupy about the same position as the
node of the ocean oscillation. Oneis tempted to speculation on
possible accumulations of finest ocean silts in this stiller axis of
the swaying mass through the long ages of geologic time. One
may wonder again if the moon’s periodic impulse does not for-
bid a departure of the ocean basin from the form demanded for
an oscillation in harmony with lunar time—in other words,
whether the moon may not have contributed to the permanence
of oceanic basins in governing oceanic tides. The tide must re-
sist any attempt to change its period.
THE PEAK OF ITAMBE
In a private letter, dated September 16, 1898, Lieut. James
A. Shipton, U.S. A., Military Attaché to the U.S. Legation in
Brazil, writes as follows:
I have just returned from a trip to Diamantina, in the state of Minas
Geraes. While there I climbed the peak of Itambé, incompany with Mr
Beaumont, the secretary of the English Legation, and a Mr Coleman, the
latter, however, not reaching the summit. Weare supposed to have been
the first men ever on the summit of this peak. From where we camped
the last day it was about four hours’ work, in spite of the assurance of
our four Brazilian guides that we should require four days more. ‘There
were only two places of difficulty, but it was hard to convince the inhab-
itants that we had been on top. We started a fire in the grass on a small
plateau near the highest rocks and on the highest point left a part of our
bottle of wine, carried by the only one of the guides who accompanied
us to the summit. The people of the neighborhood believed that there
was a lake on top and a beautiful lady, of course. There are many on¢as
(tigers) and antes (tapirs), their paths being plainly visible in the long
grass. Our Brazilian guides kept up a fire to keep the oncas from our
mules while we slept. From Diamantina we were gone four days and
rode 75 miles. Nine rivers have their sources on this peak, and one does
not wonder when one sees the number of springs and marshy places on
the mountain. Only twice we had to cut a road through the brush and —
one night our supper consisted of a parrot stew.
GEOGRAPHICAL ASPECTS OF THE MONR@E
DOCTRINE
That our German friends view American aggressions with
suspicious eye. and detect the Monroe doctrine lurking in unex-
pected places, is evidenced by the following extract from Peler-
mann’s Mittheilungen, 44 vol., 1898 (p. 47, America) :
“The U.S. Board on Geographic Names, which has done good work in
fixing the names of localities, mountains, and rivers within the United
States, and has thereby eliminated many erroneous designations, cannot
avoid overstepping from time to time their prescribed limits and extend-
ing their activity to regions not within their jurisdiction.
“Occasioned by the discovery of the gold fields on the Klondike, it has
subjected the usual and often varying names in the Yukon district to
severe criticism. Many real errors have thereby been corrected, and the
476
aa
GHOGRAPHIC LITERATURE 477
discoverers, as well as those who were honored by them in the matter of
naming localities, have been given their just dues.
“‘The name of the river has been confirmed Klondike; instead of the
names Labarge and Lindemann or Linderman for the lakes of the Upper
Yukon, Lebarge and Lindeman are given; Taiya instead of Dyea (a town
on the Chilcvot inlet), etc. (Science, Oct. 15, 1897.)
‘«Kiven admitting the correctness of these changes, exception must be
taken to such action in regions which do not belong to the United States,
The greater part of these names belong to Canadian territory, where
American officials, in spite of the Monroe doctrine, have nothing to say,
and where undoubtedly the Canadians have the exclusive right to give
the names.’’
GEOGRAPH G WiheiwA WeRIs
The Louisiana Purchase and Our Title West of the Rocky Mountains, with a
Review of Annexation by the United States. By Binger Hermann, Com-
missioner of the General Land Office. Washington, 1898. Small
quarto. Pp. 1-87, with several maps and portraits.
In this work, just issued from the Government Printing Office, the
United States General Land Office takes a new departure and falls into
line with those federal bureaus which aim to advance knowledge in con-
nection with their administrative work. Hitherto the more important
publications of the General Land Office have been limited to maps—
maps of the land-survey states on separate sheets and a general map of
the United States on a scale of about forty miles to the inch. Some
months since a new edition of this general map was issued showing, in
addition to the general and special cartographic features with which the
Land Office is directly concerned, the political structure of the United
States—i. e., the original territory together with the several territorial
acquisitions. On this map the “‘ Louisiana purchase” and ‘‘ Oregon Ter-
ritory ” were combined as a single-acquisition. Now comes Commissioner
Hermann with a correction of this error, supported by original docu-
ments and maps, and with a full recital of the historical events connected
with the purchase of Louisiana territory from France and with the dis-
covery and settlement of Oregon. Incidentally he addresses himself to
current issues, at least between the lines, by taking up the general dis-
cussion of territorial acquisition in the history of the United States and
showing the consequent benefits to the nation. Referring to the cost of
the enormous territorial acquisitions, quadrupling the original area of the
country, he says: ‘‘The grand total of the sums paid for our foreign
acquisitions amounts to $52,200,000, a sum less than the value of one
year’s output of Montana’s minerals, of Minnesota’s annual wheat-yield,
or of the cattle and hay product of California for one year’’ (page 70) ;
then he proceeds to analyze the early objections to annexation, to inquire
into the constitutionality of annexation, to forecast our future destiny,
and to extol the wisdom displayed by our statesmen in the acquisition of
478 GEHOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
the Sandwich islands, leaving for his last word a forcible plea for the
construction of the Nicaragua canal. The book is timely, valuable, and
an occasion for congratulating the Land Office on this new display of
interest In public affairs.
WJ) Mi:
The State: Elements of Historical and Practical Politics. By Woodrow Wil-
son, Ph. D., LL. D., Professor of Jurisprudence and Politics in Prince-
ton University. Revised edition. Boston, D. C. Heath & Co., 1898.
8°. Pp. xxxv, 696.
This work, issued in 1889, several times reprinted, now revised, pre-
sents an outline of government from primitive forms to typical states—
ancient Grecian states and Rome, present France, Germany, Switzer-
land, Austria-Hungary, Sweden, Norwey, Great Britain, and the United
States. By rearrangement, Hellas, a region, precedes Sparta and Athens.
Changes in the text upon Rome, France, Germany, or Great Britain in-
volve more space than those relating to the United States, to which im-
mediate interest and limited space mainly restrict these notes. The
work includes three topics, regarding which confusion often exists in
text-books of geography, history, and government: I. Cession of terri-
tory; Il. Towns or township; III. Cities.
I. The difference between cession of jurisdiction and giving title in fee
is clearly recognized in this work, but absolute accuracy is not maintained
in particulars.
After stating (sec. 1266) that Maryland and Virginia granted territorial
jurisdiction for a seat of national government, and that the government
buys sites for arsenals, dock yards, forts, and light-houses, receiving from
states exclusive jurisdiction, to lapse when the public use of the property
ceases (sec. 1269), the author says (sec. 1272): ‘‘ The post-offices, federal
court chambers, custom-houses, and other like buildings erected and
owned by the general government in various parts of the country are
held by the government upon the ordinary principles of ownership, just
as they might be held by a private corporation. ‘Their sites are not sep-
arate federal territory.”
The Constitution of the United States says: ‘“‘ The Congress shall have
power . . . to exercise exclusive legislation in all cases whatsoever
over such district as may . . . become the seat of the Government
: and to exercise like authority over all places purchased by the
consent of the state in which the same shall be for the erection of forts,
magazines, arsenals, dock yards, and other needful buildings.” (Art. I,
sec. 8, clause 17. )
The United States statutes prescribe that ‘‘no money shall be ex-
pended upon any site or land purchased by the United States for . . .
any . . . public building, of any kind whatever, until the written
opinion of the Attorney General shall be had in favor of the validity of
the title, nor until the consent of the legislature of the state in which
the land or site may be to such purchase has been given.” (U.S. Rev,
Stat., 1878, sec. 35d. )
GHOGRAPHIC LITERATURE 479
acquirement of a title in fee, shall ‘‘have jurisdiction over any tracts of
land within the commonwealth which may be necessary for the erection
of marine hospitals, customs offices, post-offices, life-saving stations,
. . but the commonwealth shall retain concurrent jurisdiction . ,
so far that all civil and criminal processes issuing under authority of the
commonwealth may be executed thereon . . .” (Pub. Stat. Mass.,
1882, chap. 1, secs. 3, 4.)
““The following property . . . shall be exempted from taxation:
First. The property of the United States.’’ (Idem, chap. 11, sec. 5.)
Such acts vary in detail, but even, uniform exemption from taxation
distinguishes the federal title from the title of a private corporation.
II. There are in the United States: 1. Towns: (a) bodies corporate of
a grade below cities; (>) rural bodies with democratic control of certain
local affairs, sometimes including schools. 2. Townships: (a) the towns
last defined, under another name; (+) bodies for school administration
only; (c) congressional townships, simply areas, of 36 square miles, laid
out by government surveyors, often the bases for school townships.
Two forms of local government are technically: County government,
township organization. Usually one form prevails throughout a state,
Illinois and Missouri, however, originally under county government,
authorized counties desiring it to adopt township organization, and both
forms are found in each of these states, at least. Each was laid off in
congressional townships, in which the sixteenth or school sections were
for the township. The school township prevails throughout both states,
and yet not of course. In Louisiana, with a like survey and a like land
grant, there is no corporate township. That state, recognizing a town-
ship only as a peopled area with a title to the school section, has acted
as trustee and keeps accounts with congressional townships in distribut-
ing revenue from the land to schools therein.
The grant was not uniformly ‘‘to a township”’ (sec. 1255), but in a
township, sometimes to the state, as in Florida and in Kansas, where a
corporate school township has not grown from the congressional town-
ship. ;
A congressional township, a school township or town, and a civil town
or township may occupy the same area at the same time, and a city cor-
poration may be coincident. upon more or less of the same area. The
greatest variety of civil bodies corporate can probably be found in Illinois
or Missouri especially, with the early charters still valid. The student of
“¢The State ’’ will have occasion to supplement its explanations, as, indeed,
the author suggests.
I{I. This edition is apparently the first text-book to recognize the in-
dependence of residents in certain cities from county taxes and county
control.* The student may advantageously look for kindred cases. In
arranging the functions of Boston and Suffolk county, some of which are
interchangeable, it is provided that ‘‘Chelsea, Revere, and Winthrop
shall not be taxed for county purposes” (Pub. Stat. Mass., 1882, chap. 11,
sec. 47). In Kentucky, in counties containing cities maintaining separate
*The conditions in Baltimore, St Louis, and the cities of Virginia were published in
the NarronaL Grocrapuic Macazrnr, March, 1896.
480 MISCELLANEA
schools, a county superintendent and the voters who elect him must re-
side in that part of the county outside the cities.
“There is no complete and general municipal incorporations act in any
of ourstates; . . . the largest towns are left to depend for their in-
corporation upon special acts of legislation ’’ (The State, sec. 1245). One
constitution at least (Illinois, 1870, art. iv, sec. 22) prohibits local or
special laws for incorporating cities, towns, or villages, or changing or
amending their charters, and communities of any size can act under laws
harmonious with it.
The discussion of national citizenship and state citizenship does not
seem wholly consistent. Some day an ‘inhabitant’? who has legally
voted in one state for a representative in Congress and has been denied
the right so to vote in a state to which he has removed may secure a de-
cision from the Supreme Court that will warrant positive assertions. Till
then the author may well say: “A very considerable amount of obscurity,
it must be admitted, surrounds the question of citizenship. . . . It
has become extremely difficult to draw any clear line between citizens
and aliens”’ (sec. 1121).
While the diversity of our marriage and divorce laws is demoralizing,
it is not quite clear how ‘‘it may be possible for a man to have different
Wives or a woman different husbands in several states at one time”’ (sec.
1110), except as a criminal.
The superintendent of public documents is now under the Public
Printer, not under the Secretary of the Interior (sec. 1348).
This edition is neater than the first, the paragraphing is better, the
reference lists are made alphabetical (pp. 160, 161 excepted). The book
has no rival for its particular place in the class or in the library.
JAMES H. BiopeGerr.
MISCELLANEA
During 1897 the gross reduction in the effective mercantile marine of the
world, through wrecks and condemnations, amounted to 1,045 vessels,
aggregating 726,800 tons. From this number vessels of less than 100
tons were excluded. Of the above total 293 vessels of 398,207 tons were
steamers and 752 of 328,593 tons were sailing-vessels. The United King-
dom shows the smallest percentage of loss, viz., 2.7 per cent of the vessels
owned, and Norway has the highest, with 7 per cent.
The Florida Coast Line canal, after nine years’ work, is now completed
from Mosquito inlet to Miami. Boats drawing five feet pass semi-weekly
the entire distance from Titusville on the Indian river through Lake
Worth to Palm beach. Three short cuts complete the canal—two between
Matanzas and Tomoka and one uniting North river with Pablo creek.
Eventually the canal will connect the St John river with Biscayne bay,
and render an inland passage possible along the Atlantic coast from Long
Island sound to Key West.
Burlington
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REcORDING SECRETARY CorRESPONDING SECRETARY
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TREASURER’S OFFICE
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NOTICE OF REMOVAL
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curves are numerous in the mountain section, the ride is as smooth as over a Western prairie.
One of the most delightful rides in all the route is that through the New River valley. The
mountains are just low enough to be clad with verdure to the very top, and in the early spring every
variety of green known to the mixer of colors can be seen, while the tones in autumn take on all the
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THE AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST.
The only American magazine devoted to the science of Anthropology in
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The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST is issued monthly from the office of publication at Minne-
apolis, Minnesota, United States of America. Twenty volumes are completed; the twenty-
first began with the number for January, 1898. The magazine has received a cordial
welcome and a generous support from leading geologists everywhere and it is now
recognized as the exponent of the rapid geological progress that is taking place on
the continent of North America, including Canada, the United States and Mexico. No-
where else in the world are geologic phenomena exhibited on a more extensive scale
and nowhere else are results attained of greater economic and scientific importance.
The AMERICAN GEOLOGIST lays before its readers from month to month the latest
results of geological work. In addition to the longer papers it gives synopses of recent
geological publications and brief notes on current geological events.
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National Geographic Magazine
Vou. IX DECEMBER, 1898 Non 2
neta Emel EZ Deis E SVAN D | hie. SURVEY: OF
INDIAN TERRITORY *
By Cab haimere
Topographer, U. S. Geological Survey, in Charge of Indian Territory Surveys
Mr Henry Gannett, Chief Geographer of the U. S. Geological
Survey, presented to the readers of Tor NarronaL GrocraPHic
MaGaZINnE in March, 1896, an article on the survey and subdi-
vision of Indian Territory and the progress made in the survey
up to the time of writing. Now that the survey has been com-
pleted, a summary of the work, with some remarks upon the
present condition of affairs in the territory, may be of interest.
An impression prevails among many eastern people that In-
dian ‘Territory is in the Cherokee strip, or is at least a part of
Oklahoma, or somewhere in the remote west, and yet apparently
much interest is being shown at this time in the condition of
affairs in the country occupied by the Five Civilized Tribes.
Indian Territory lies between latitude 33° 30’ and 37° north
and longitude 94° 30’ and 98° west. The lands held by the Five
Civilized Tribes comprise nearly all the territory, and cover an
area of about 31,000 square miles.
This territory, as well as that of Oklahoma, was originally
granted to certain tribes in exchange for lands east of the Mis-
sissippl, which were demanded for settlement by whites. The
Five Civilized Tribes consist of the Cherokee, Chickasaw, Choc-
taw, Creek, and Seminole nations, and they have been occupants
of these lands since 18338, when their removal from the south-
* Presented at the Joint Session of the National Geographic Society and the A. A.
A. S., Boston, August 25, 1898.
99
v0
482 THE FIVE CIVILIZED TRIBES
eastern states was effected. These Indians are self-sustaining,
but large sums of money have been paid to them from time to
time for lands purchased, and large sums are still held in trust
for them by the general government. Each tribe or nation has
an organized government on the general plan of the states, and
they elect legislators to enact laws, and governors, judges, and
other officials to enforce them. They are law-abiding, but the
full bloods are unprogressive, and most of them are opposed to
any change in their tribal government. By law they are allowed
to become citizens of the United States, but they have failed to
avail themselves of this privilege.
There are about 50,000 Indians in the Five Civilized Tribes
and about 18,000 negroes, who are Indian citizens. A large
number of the Indians are quarter and half-breeds, and among
them are many intelligent and educated men. To them and to
~~
THE FIVE CIVILIZED TRIBES 483
the white men who have gained a foothold whatever progres:
has been made is due. The white or non-citizen population is
variously estimated at from 250,000 to 350,000, outnumbering
the citizens by at least four to one.
There is a United States agent for the Five Civilized Tribes
located at the Union agency at Muscogee, in the Creek Nation.
All business of the Indians with the Department of the Interior
is conducted through this agent. He has under his control the
Indian police force, numbering some forty men.
There are three United States judicial districts and four judges
who together constitute the U.S. court of appeals. The juris-
diction of these courts was at ‘first limited to civil cases, the
criminal business relating to non-citizens being tried in certain
U.S. courts in Arkansas and Texas, but the courts of these
States have at present no jurisdiction within the territory. A
United States statute prohibits the introduction into the terri-
tory of any kind of intoxicating liquor, but the law is continu-
ally being violated, and at least one-half of all the indictments
are against whiskey-peddlers for ‘‘ introducing.”
There is a general impression that the Indian Territory is an
extensive prairie with very little timber within its hmits. On
the contrary, the major portion of the country is rugged and
mountainous, covered with forests, which are principally oak.
There are also some large forests of yellow pine, mainly in the
southeastern section of the Choctaw Nation. In the same na-
tion there is much black walnut timber, some of which is being
shipped out of the territory. From Talihina, on the line of the
“Frisco” road, in the Chactaw Nation, cedar is being shipped
abroad for the manufacture of lead-pencils. In many localities
sawmills are engaged in cutting pine.
Along the valleys of the Arkansas, North Fork, Canadian,
Grand, and Verdigris rivers the soil is extremely rich and fer-
tile, producing good crops of cotton, oats, wheat, etc. lse-
where the soil is diversified, ranging from good, rich prairie land
to stony hillsides, and a large proportion is practically worthless
for agricultural purposes. On the rolling prairies in the Chero-
kee, Chickasaw, and small portions of the Choctaw nations a
large quantity of wild hay is annually cut for the purpose of
winter feeding to the cattle which range over these prairies.
Great herds of cattle are brought from Texas to fatten before
final shipment to market, and immense pastures are fenced in
for their use. Some stock, including horses, mules, sheep, and
S68T
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THE FIVE CIVILIZED TRIBES 485
hogs, is raised in the territory, but no particular attention is
paid to improving the breeds. The hogs are of the razor-back
variety, and roam the woods, half wild, in search of food. The
Indians live upon very little; fresh pork and a small quantity
of corn raised for the preparation of “ sofky ” seem to be about
all that many of them have. The woods may be full of deer,
turkeys, and smaller game, but their existence is apparently
ignored.
The carboniferous coal measures of Indian Territory prob-
ably underlie the eastern half of the territory, together with the
western portion of the Creek country. The only development
of coal that has been made is along the lines of the Missouri,
Kansas and Texas and the Choctaw, Oklahoma and Gulf rail-
roads. ‘The coal so far developed is excellent for the production
of steam, gas,and coke. The report of the U. 8. Mine Inspector
for Indian Territory shows that the output of coal for the year
ending December 51, 1897, was.1,534,795 tons and the number
of men employed in the mines 5,411. A considerable part of
the revenue of the Choctaw Nation, in which these mines are
situated, is derived from the coal leases.
The several governments of the Five Civilized Tribes derive
an income from leased lands, licenses, and permits to non-
citizens. All lands are held in common, and no Indian can be
taxed for the land he occupies. No attention is paid to the
improvement of roads, and there are no public bridges or
ferries. Numerous towns, some of them of considerable size
and importance, have sprung up along the seven railroad lines
within the territory, but, they are without legal existence and
have no recognized town or city government. They are without
proper officers to enforce laws, have no water supply or fire de-
partments, sidewalks or other street improvements, no schools,
except private ones, and no systems of drainage or sewerage.
The title to town lots, if title it can be called, does not allow the
purchaser to build a house and rent it; he must either sell or
Occupy, for if vacant it is hable to be “jumped.” Only the
Indian citizens have the privilege of renting houses and lots.
The question of the allotment of lands in severalty to the
Five Civilized Tribes and the enactment of a townsite law has
been agitated for several years. A commission composed of five
members, commonly known as the Dawes Commission, was au-
thorized by Congress, and has fora number of years been endeav-
oring to treat with the Indians with such allotment in view, but
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THE FIVE CIVILIZED TRIBES 487
the Indians are slow to think and slow to act, and have per-
sistently opposed any change in their tribal relations. Recently,
however, some progress has been made in this direction, and
agreements have been prepared and signed by representatives
of certain of the tribes and the Dawes Commission. A bill pro-
viding for the protection of the people of Indian Territory, com-
monly called the Curtis bill, has recently become a law. — Its
most important provisions are for the allotment of lands in sev-
eralty to the Indians of the Five Civilized Tribes, and for the
laying out of towns, leasing of coal lands, etc.
To allot the lands there must of necessity be a subdivisional
survey. The only survey that had ever been made was that of
several outboundaries of the nations, and the subdivision of the
Chickasaw Nation, accomplished about twenty-five years ago.
Under the provisions of an act of Congress approved March 2,
1895, an appropriation of $200,000 was made for the survey and
subdivision of lands in the Indian Territory, under the rectan-
gular system. The act referred to provided further that the
Secretary of the Interior might in his discretion place the work
under the supervision of the Director of the U.S. Geological
Survey. Usually, surveys under the rectangular system are exe-
cuted under contracts let by the surveyor general for the dis-
trict in which the surveys are to be made. Where there is no
surveyor general, as in this case, the contracts are awarded by
the Commissioner of the General Land Office, with the approval
of the Secretary of the Interior. The contracts are let at stipu-
lated rates per linear mile, as fixed by law.
The Secretary of the: Iaterior decided, under the authority
granted by Congress, to place the work of the subdivision of the
Territory in charge of the Director of the Geological Survey,
and a plan of operations was drawn up by the latter officer and
approved by the Secretary March 21,1895. Immediate steps
were taken to begin the work and by April 1 the first parties
were in the field.
The force was increased as rapidly as was consistent with econ-
omy, until two parties were engaged in establishing the standard
meridians and parallels at intervals of 24 miles; six parties
were engaged in running township exteriors within the blocks
bounded by standard lines; and four parties, each consisting of
two camps with two surveyors or transitmen in each camp, were
engaged upon the subdivision of townships. Each of the sub-
division parties was placed under the control of a topographer
of the permanent force of the Geological Survey, whose duty
488 VHE FIVE CIVILIZED TRIBES
consisted in the inspection of the work of the land survey and
the preparation of the topographic maps. With the commence-
ment of surveys in the Chickasaw Nation the force was further
increased. The field-work has been practically continuous;
having been prosecuted throughout the heat of summer and
the cold and storms of winter.
An additional appropriation of $200,000 was made by Con-
gress in June, 1896. and in June, 1897, a further sum of $100,000
Was appropriated. At the same time an appropriation of $141,500
was made for the resurvey of the Chickasaw Nation. In Jan-
uary, 1898, a further amount of $50,000 was appropriated to
complete the survey of Indian Territory. The last appropriation
was rendered necessary by the discontinuance of the survey in
the spring of 1897 owing to lack of funds, and the reorganization
and the long distances to be traveled after the appropriation
was passed in June, 1897.
Under the provisions of the appropriation act of June, 1896,
an iron post was required to be set at each township corner:
These monuments are four inches in diameter, four feet long,
and are set three feet in the ground. They have been placed at
every township corner, including those established by the sur-
veys executed prior to the enactment of the law. In addition
to the usual marks referring to township, range, and section, the
elevation above sea-level is marked upon the brass cap of such
posts. The elevations are determined by means of spirit levels.
Prior to beginning the work upon the township lines, double
lines of levels were run over the tracks of the railroads traversing
the country, with frequent bench-marks as checks to the town-
ship lines crossing them. The datum point for the level work
is a bench-mark established at Fort Smith, Ark., by the U.S.
Coast and Geodetic Survey.
A system of triangulation has been carried over the area sur-
veyed, the base for which was measured near Savanna, on the
line of the Missouri, Kansas and Texas railroad, in the Choc-
taw Nation. his triangulation is a basis for the topographic
survey, and a means of checking and correcting errors, and will
assist in the recovery of missing corners should they become
lost or disappear in after years.
The topographers in charge of subdivision parties, with the
aid of assistants, have mapped the topography of the area sub-
divided. They first plotted upon the field sheets the objects
noted by the surveyor, including the crossing of streams, roads
base and summits of hills, ridges, or mountains. The elevations
AUOLIUUIL NVIGNI ‘SNIGVO MVLOOHO
490 THE FIVE CIVILIZED TRIBES
of the exterior lines were furnished by the levelmen, and addi-
tional elevations were obtained by means of vertical angles run
through the interior of the township, checked upon the levels.
The progress made in the survey of the Indian Territory to the
end of June, 1898, when the field-work was completed, is shown
by the reports submitted to the Director of the Geological Survey.
As appears from these reports, 138 triangulation stations have
been established, from all of which angles have been observed.
In the land survey 63,881 miles have been run, as follows:
Standard lines, 2,491 miles; exterior lines, 7,777 miles; subdi-
vision lines, 50,931 miles ; meander lines, 2,149 miles, and bound-
ary lines reéstablished, 533 miles. In addition, level lines have
been run as follows: Railroad levels, 1,618 miles; other level
lines, 7,690 miles. Vertical angles have been run over 8,595 miles.
The total mileage of the land survey, level and vertical angle
lines, since the bevinning of the work is 81,778.
The Geological Survey has not only executed the land or sub-
division survey of the area, but has in addition carried on the
triangulation, the topographic survey, including many miles of
spirit-level lines, and has also set the iron posts or bench-marks,
a labor not required of contractors, and all this has been done
ata great saving to the government from the amount which it
would have cost under the contract system. There has been
some trouble occasioned by the destruction of corners and bear-
ing trees by Indians, but warnings from the Indian agent and
from the several Indian governors abated this annoyance. No
interference has been attempted by Indians with the surveyors
in the field.
During the late summer and early fall months of the several
seasons malarial fevers have been prevalent among the men, and
at times have seriously interfered with the work. The summer.
of 1896 was remarkable for its intense heat, and the hottest part
of the United States seemed to be that section included in the
Indian Territory. Only one death from sunstroke occurred,
however, and as a rule the health of the different parties and the
immunity from accident of the 800 or more men employed have
been remarkable.
The headquarters camp and office were located at South Mc-
Alester, in the Choctaw Nation, until June, 1897, when, for con-
venience, they were transferred to Denison, Tex., near the border
of the Chickasaw Nation. The work of preparing transcripts of
field-notes, township plats, and topographic maps has progressed
rapidly, but some of the office-work still remains to be completed.
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CE@UD SCENERY OF ele BIGH REAINS*
By Wintarp D. JouHnson,
U. S. Geological Survey
There is no scenery of the High Plains except that which once
a year fora brief period the sky affords, and which then ona
vast scale it builds upon them in clouds of extraordinary splen-
dor, or lends to them in elaborate illusion of light and shadow.
Ordinarily, through nearly the entire annual round, there is
no material for landscape effect, except the straight line of the
horizon, with a featureless breadth of sun-faded brown below it
and above a merely broader space of faded blue. There is no-
where a curving line, and though as ascientific fact there is vast
extension of dead flat plain, there is little suggestion of it to the
imagination when the sky is empty of clouds.
The horizon is. in fact, not distant, as seen from the ground,
It is not so distant as that at sea, for normally it is viewed from
an elevation much lower than the deck of a ship, and there is
no lift of a wave at intervals to extend it. The ranchman gets
a widened view from his windmill tower on oiling days, but his
accustomed point of observation is the back of a horse. With
his motion in the saddle, antelope, feeding along the sky-line, will
have the deceptive appearance of moving vertically in unison,
so responsive is that boundary of vision to vertical change in the
position of the eye. The ranchman’s wife views the world from
the doorway, and hersis a still narrower horizon. And the small
boy, as he soon learns, can step off the radius to his. He finds,
moreover, that to do go is no great adventure. He lives in a
pent-up Utica, but he has the measure of it. He discovers that
he is tethered in effect to his windmill tower; that to put that
familiar object hull down, and finally out of sight, is to go adrift.
Beyond would be the open sea. Indeed, he has his foot at the
edge of it when, on looking back, tiptoeing, he can but just dis-
cern the rim of the windmill wheel turning dark and solitary
against the sky.
* The photographs from which the accompanying illustrations were made were taken
by the author near Meade, southwestern Kansas, in June, 1897. A bichromate of pot-
ash ray filter was used, and isochromatic plates. The time of day was immediately
after sunset. The direction faced was due south.
493
494 CLOUD SCENERY OF THE HIGH PLAINS
There are towns on the High Plains. At least there were
towns in the days of the great “boom.” Of some of these there
now remain neither population nor buildings; others show a
scattering of buildings, though empty ones, and in a few, among
many empty buildings, is to be found a family here and there.
These vestiges of boom creation have been merely waiting for
something that has never happened, that never can happen—
the blossoming of the desert. At one time across the interspaces
the farmer swarmed, but he, too, now is gone, as a class. As in
the towns, so on the great flats in between, of the flocks that once
settled down and then took flight again a lingering representa-
tive is still to be found here and there; and he is waiting for a
change of climate, for the farm on the High Plains is nothing
more than a body of land surrounded by wire fence. It can
never be anything else except as, in half a decade or so, sod
finally heals the furrows of the futile plow and it goes back to
prairie and to cattle.
The diversions of the people of the great uplands are alto-
gether indoors. For those of the “towns” there is nowhere to
go; beyond the sky-line there is nothing, only extended myriads
of other empty acres and townships; and for the occasional
farmer, except it be the oiling of his windmill, there is nothing
to do. Itis of no use to plant wheat that does not grow; that
again and again in this fertile soil, through arid seasons of un-
answered prayer, has refused to grow. To be sure, once ina
decade, more or less, there will come a year of plenty—a year
of general and comparatively abundant rainfall—as, for exam-
ple, this present one of 1898, behind which the lean years in un-
broken succession were just a dozen; but these exceptions are
not answers to prayer; they are rather to be regarded as inter-
positions of the evil one and a trap.
The single diversion of the people of the High Plains is the
dance. Mention of it here is not irrelevant. The dance of the
upland plains country is properly to be regarded as a psycho-
logical phenomenon to which the mute emptiness of all outdoors -
is a compelling cause. It is not the celebration of an event, but
is the event itself, and enlists the serious energies of old and
young alike. It is spontaneously recurring—an impulsive get-
ting together out of the void; and the impulse is as mysterious
in origin, as swift and all-embracing, as a prairie fire. It isa
galvanic, nervous reaction from the strain of monotony.
The High Plains are the central plains region, or, more accu-
re
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CLOUD SCENERY OF THE HIGH PLAINS 495
rately, they are a close assemblage, in north and south belt form,
of low and broad plateaus within that central region. They
are immense remnantal tables, in light relief, of an older and
originally perfect plain, which a few long and feeble streams,
wide apart, extending eastward from the distant mountains in
parallel courses and without tributaries, have thus blocked out
by dissection. Of the Great Plains area these midway plateaus
of faint elevation constitute the only true plains—the plains
proper.
The climate of the Great Plains slope has a range from humid
in the east to arid in the west. Midway, therefore—a unit ac-
cording to climate as it is a unit topographically—the High
Plains subdivision is subhumid or semiarid. A subhumid cli-
mate may be defined as one to which drought is normal, the
difference between a region of complete aridity—7 e., a desert—
and one of prevailing drought being that, while both are outside
the boundaries of “‘God’s country,” the latter directly borders
upon it, and periodically becomes the crowded lumber field
for its atmospheric paraphernalia out of use, receiving therefrom
for a time its accidental leakage.
And then the inhabitant gets out of doors. He stretches forth
his arms and breathes in a, modicum of the real joy of living,
with the promise of moisture. He no longer sits stolid, just
without his threshold, with back to the landscape. The house
dog, too. takes up position at an unaccustomed distance and
barks defiance to the multitudinous ery of the ventriloquist
coyote; and the eldest-son greases the wagon and the family go
over the horizon to visit théir neighbor.
The clouds come in with a gradual maturing at some point
along the sky-line; and immediately that point recedes into in-
finite distance. Multitudes of fragments detach themselves, and
radiate high over the great flats in drifting flocks of cirrus,
‘«Shepherded by the slow, unwilling wind,”
and come to rest as outposts. Then begin the heavy marshalings
and for some days these continue. Ranches disappear in prema-
ture night under mere accumulation of shadow, and again are
sought out in the glare of recessed furnaces of illumination and
seemingly consumed. The plain is thundered over continuously,
and penetrated at innumerable points by vertical lightning.
Fires thus are sometimes originated, and areas as great as a New
England state become blackened over with a film of grass char-
496 CLOUD SCENERY OF THE HIGH PLAINS
coal, which the later winds whirl into columns as much asa
mile in height and trail along both plain and sky.
In this display there is grandeur in the magnitude of details
and the deeply glowing colors, but there is no diffused coloring ;
there are no stratus clouds as yet; no lines of order. Soon,
howeyer, arise the winds, and slow evolution gives place to tu-
mult. The solitary inhabitant, wherever the occasion may have
found him, drops all pretense of occupation, and with hat gripped
in both hands, leaning back against the rush of air, surrenders
himself to awed contemplation of the spectacle.
Finally space is cleared. Around the circle of the immeasur-
ably remote sky-line the lumber of atmospheric scenery becomes
packed away in horizontal tiers and overtopping piles, and the
ereat flats settle down to silence, except for a far marginal mur-
muring never entirely stilled. Then illusion comes forth, and
over them maneuver beauties disembodied and immaterial.
This is the desert equivalent of the eastern Indian summer,
Though there is no color of autumn foliage, there is yet the effect
of it, and toward evening, inaugurated by mild disturbances
in atmospheric density, there is a marvelous lifting and stir over
the vast stage as of a ballet color-play of flaunted draperies.
But the closing effects especially are stupendous, the coloring
more lavish, the cumulus masses of incredible height and volume.
They take their course swiftly to an end, and the magic goes out
with a blink. A last thunderhead, reared in far retreat, glim-
mers and mutters from beyond the horizon. With its sinking
the commonplace has abruptly returned. To the “short-grass
country,” to the interminable spread of level lands that *‘ liter-
ally scream for water,” the net result of these heavy labors will
have been but a pattering of drops, with sudden and mighty
downpours over abandoned and forgotten townships here and
there, many miles apart, and an ephemeral carpeting of green,
but no continued soaking, no “ gray veils of rain.”
And yet the High Plains have a future. The ‘‘ boomers ” were
birds of passage; another population with different ideas will
come to stay. The windmills then will largely multiply, but the
newcomers will not be farmers, and it will not be for irrigation
that the meager leakage from the clouds which had soaked into
the ground will be pumped out again. The most effective utih-
zation of that scant supply will be recognized as secured when,
toward evening, along radial trails in all directions extending out
to the horizon, cattle are seen, in long lines, coming in to water.
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ANTI GANIN TEE (CLOYNS IY AU DISS 3
By Mark 8. W. JEFFERSON
The tides of the eastern American coast are oscillations of the
shallow waters on the continental shelf communicated from the
swaying ocean beyond.
The area must be subdivided into the coast proper, facing the
open waters of the shelf, and the shallow basins included behind
islands and banks. e
The continental shelfis a submerged platform along our shores,
sloping so gently that it would appear flat to the eye if it were a
land surface, and margined eastward by the line of 100 fathoms
soundings.
From Long island northward a line of banks rear their summits
to within 30 fathoms of the surface along the eastern margin
of the shelf, with deeper waters between them and the land.
Between these banks, however, are numerous deeper openings,
through which tidal movements are communicated landward
as well as over the shallow banks.
Southward from Long island the descent of the shelf is beach-
likeand uninterrupted from the shore to the line of 100 fathoms.
Only in the waters east of southern Florida do the Bahamas cone
in to interrupt the descent to the ocean depths. This general
configuration is shown on the accompanying sketch (see p. 498),
where a broken line represents the 100-fathom line and the ap-
proximate boundary of the continental shelf, the dotted lines
inclose the banks, and the band of shading indicates the steep
slope to depths of 2,000 fathoms. Numbers indicate tide ranges.
The northern half of the shelf is seen to be wider than the south-
ern. besides being distinguished by the line of banks.
Within this area lie the inclosed basins—Long Island sound,
the Gulf of Maine, and the Gulf of St Lawrence. They increase
in depth and size from south to north.
TIDES ON THE COAST PROPER
An examination of the whole coast line shows an intimate re-
lation between time and range of tide and the form of cross-
section of the continental shelf off each station. In a few cases
* Extract from Thesis in research course in Geography at Harvard University.
B34 497
\Ill Wy
3 a.
N
ATLANTIC COAST TIDES 499
it is difficult to decide in what direction the cross-section should
be drawn, but in general an east-west line gives satisfactory re-
sults, besides according well with the general conception of the
Atlantic tidal oscillation. But it is certain that the tidal im-
pulse is not limited closely to transmission in one direction.
The tidal range appears to vary with the width of the continental
shelf where the descent to the sea is unbroken ; where shoals
stand on the shelf margin the range is thereby diminished, being
greatest opposite the openings between the shoals.
The general tide relations on the coast are as follows:
In the north, in the Nova Scotia-Newloundland area, the line
of 100 fathoms is about 200 miles offshore, if measured on an
east-west line. A series of banks lies just within this line, while
close without the descent is rapid to 2,000 fathoms. The tide-
ranges are from 42 to 7 feet.
In the Middle bay, from Nantucket to Hatteras, 100 fathoms
and the descent to oceanic depths are alike some 70 miles out.
Tides range from 2 to 4 feet.
In the Southern bay the 100-fathom line is 30 to 80 miles from
land, while the descent to 2,000 fathoms lies 240 miles out.
Tide-ranges are here from 4 to 8 feet.
THE NORTHERN AREA
The tide reaches shore first at Country harbor, well up toward
the Gut of Canso, and due west from the deep entrance to the
Gulf of St Lawrence. Thirty minutes later it has reached the
southwest end of Nova Scotia and the northeast end of Cape
Breton island. After another half hour'it reaches the south
coast of Newfoundland.
The tidal impulse seems to enter these waters by the entrance
to the St Lawrence, the Banks of Newfoundland barring off the
ocean to the east. IPf this be true. it is here transmitted along
a southeast-northwest line. That this is sois confirmed by the
fact that the tide reaches the south side of Sable island an hour
before it appears on the north side. Sable island stands close
to the eastern margin of the shelf, southeast from Country har-
bor. The smaller ranges occur on the south coast of Newfound-
land, where the tide has only indirect access to shore.
MIDDLE BAY TIDES
The Middle bay lies in a 120° angle of the coast, with vertex
at Sandy Hook and the sides resting on Nantucket and Hatteras
900 ATLANTIC COAST TIDES:
respectively. The continental shelf in this bay is widest off
Sandy Hook, where it is channeled across by the submerged
valley of the Hudson. ‘Tidal ranges increase from about 2 feet
at Nantucket and Hatteras to more than 4 feet at points on the
Jersey shore and at Sandy Hook.
The extreme difference of times throughout the bay is about
an hour, the distribution being somewhat irregular. There are
three points of early, almost simultaneous, high water—
No Mans Land, near Marthas Vineyard ;
Fire Island inlet, on the south coast of Long island ;
Cape Hatteras.
At four other points high water arrives almost simultaneously
an hour later:
Nantucket, south shore ;
Montauk point, entrance to Long Island sound ;
Delaware Bay entrance ;
Chesapeake Bay entrance.
Between these points there is a good progression of times from
early to late. It will be noticed that the entrance to New York
bay is not a late point, like the Delaware and Chesapeake en-
trances, yet there is some delay from Fire island to Sandy Hook.
In general, the time differences are of a magnitude perfectly ex-
plicable by variations of depth and shore configuration. The
expectation that weak tides should early reach the headlands,
Nantucket and Hatteras, and progress thence toward the bay
head is not realized, save for amplitudes. The times are as early
within as at the bay headlands. The amplitudes do increase up
the bay. :
This portion of the American shore is nearest to the swaying
ocean, with its ebb and flood currents alternating along the shore-
The characteristic of the coast-line is longshore transportation,
cut headlands, and long beaches and bars, to which the soft ma-
terial of the coast readily lends itself. The only considerable
interruptions in the continuous beaches from Montauk point to
Hatteras are at the remoter portions. ‘These openings are aided
at New York and New Jersey by the stronger tides, and at the
Chesapeake by the outflowing waters of the northern half of the
Appalachians.
SOUTHERN BAY TIDES
The shores here have three types—the cuspated capes in Caro-
lina, the Georgia entrances, and the Florida sand bars. The tide-
ATLANTIC COAST TIDES 501
ranges are roughly proportional to the distance from the 100-
fathom line. The tide reaches Hatteras about the same time as
the general northern coast. The range is there 5.6 feet and the
escarpment 30 milesaway. As far south as Savannah entrance
distances from the 100-fathom line increase steadily, the range
mounts up to 7 feet, and the tide is an hour later. The line is
here 80 miles distant. From this point southward the line draws
in toward the coast, the ranges diminish, and the delay increases,
as the tide-impulse is now transmitted down the coast, the Ba-
hamas barring off the ocean to the eastward. At Canaveral con-
figuration of shallows heaps up the range to 5 feet, but this is
local only. The coastline has analogies in the matter of long-
shore carriage to the middle bay. At the bay-head the greater
tides break the continuity of the sand bars and play in and out
by innumerable channels.
THE BASIN TIDKS
Long Island sound, the Gulf of Maine, and the Gulf of St
Lawrence have their tides respectively 4, 3, and 2 hours after
the open coast tides. This delay and a simultaneity of high
tide for at least a part of their area constitute their common
tidal features. oe
GULF OF MAINE TIDES
The Gulf of Maine, according to the usage of our Coast Sur-
vey, includes the waters of the New England coast from Mono-
moy to Cape Sable, Nova.Scotia. Its basin is partially barred
to the south by the Nantucket and Georges shoals, to the east
by Browns bank. On these shoals soundings of 30 to 40 fath-
oms prevail. Between Browns and the Georges is a 16-mile
wide channel across the continental shelf, connecting the ocean
with the deep gulf center. Here, over an area measuring per-
haps a third that of the whole gulf, soundings range from 100
fathoms to near 200. About two-thirds the area is in more than
43 fathoms. The continental escarpment lies 200 miles from
the Maine coast, but the shelf is interrupted by the Gulf of
Maine and margins around it. Theshoals to the east and south
have been well named by Mr Mitchell the Sill. To the north
the Bay of Fundy extends from the deep area of the Gulf to
Cape d’Or, Nova Scotia; to the southward lie Massachusetts
bay and Cape Cod bay, all on the continental shelf.
The Maine coast opposite the deep area is deeply and minutely
502 ATLANTIC COAST TIDES
dissected. For each of the 159 tidal stations in this area the
lunitidal intervals have been taken from the tide tables of the
U.S. Coast Survey, and referred to the time of high water at
St Johns, Newfoundland. The datum resulting is the mean
solar time interval between high water at St Johns and local
high water. It is corrected for difference of longitude and the
moon’s motion. It differs from a cotidal hour such as Whewell
used in being referred to another station than Greenwich and by
of dals of IV"50" and
Wen from St Johns ,
NewSoundl and.
ANY
\ why
“ee WWW SER
om WY
ae a aa
+ 43 Fathoms
\
'
\
t
1
|
i
t
\
i
I
\
\
‘
\
\
J
!
(
—|00 Fathoms
being expressed in mean solar instead of lunar time. All the
stations have been examined, and on the American coast, where
stations are very numerous, a few have been selected that agree
well with those in their neighborhood. These, with all the sta-
tions on the New Brunswick and Nova Scotia coasts, appear on
the accompanying map.
On looking over the mean tidal ranges throughout the gulf,
we observe that this is the area of greatest tides of our whole
coast, ranges of 10 or 12 feet prevailing. The least range on the
mainland is about 8 feet, near Newburyport, increasing south-
ATLANTIC COAST TIDES 503
ward to nearly 11 feet in Cape Cod bay, and northward to about
15 feet at the entrance to the Bay of Fundy. On the coast of
Nova Scotia there is a similar increase northward from the 7-foot
tide of Cape Sable. Up the Bay of Fundy the increase in tidal
range’ is rapid and parallel on the two shores—. e., a line at
right angles to the axis of the bay connects points of equal
range. At the head of the bay the range is about 30 feet, and
thence it rapidly increases in the narrowing channels to 41 feet
at Monckton, on the Chignecto river, and 45% feet in the Basin
of Minas.*
On examination of the times, it appears that high water
reaches the coast almost simultaneously from Cape Cod to the
head of the Bay of Fundy. Lines are sketched on the map
through places with the intervals Iv h.50m. and vh. 10m. to
illustrate this fact. These intervals are chosen because they are
means of a considerable number of stations and can therefore be
drawn with some confidence. Of particular value is the 1vh.
50m. line, closely determined on the Maine coast, on Grand
Manan, and at two stations in New Brunswick. Across the Bay
of Fundy, at its head, the island stations of Isle Haute, tv h.
49im., and Black Rock, Iv h. 58 m., fix the position of the line
equally well. That it cannot flex far to southwest before going
ashore is indicated by the spacing of the intervals along the
Nova Scotia coast. Annapolis must not be used for this pur-
pose, as it has a delayed bay-head tide.
If the tide-wave advances on a line at right angles to its front,
we expect to find its front at right angles to the bay axis—that
is, northwest-southeast. It, appears that the wave does not ad-
vance up the Bay of Fundy because, drawing the rv h. 50 m. line
with the utmost partiality to such a view, the greater part of its
length in the Bay of Fundy trends northeast-southwest. In
other words, the southern half of Nova Scotia seems to have al-
most no effect on the direction of the wave advance—or front, at
any rate—in the Bay of Fundy. Hither the wave advances from
southeast to northwest, which is not-here supposable, or the
tide in the main bay is not a progressive wave at all.
The cotidals are drawn on the assumption of a progressive
wave. The result is the reductio ad absurdum of that assumption.
The analysis of Mr Henry Mitchell? is in brief as follows:
* These are mean ranges.
7 Physical Hydrography of the Coast of Maine, 1879. Ann. Rep. U.S. Coast Survey,
p. 175.
504 ATLANTIC COAST TIDES
(1) High tide occurs at about the same time from Labrador
to Florida, except in the Gulf of Maine, where it is three and a
half hours later. ;
(2) A flood-current to southwest appears simultaneously along
the whole outer coast preceding high water, which is followed
by a general ebb-current to northeast; also appearing simul-
taneously along the whole coast.
(3) Soon after high water outside, which is a time of level
within the gulf, a current sets strongly to N. N.W. over the Sill
into the Gulf of Maine and the water rises within the gulf. “An
impulse observed at one of our current stations is almost im-
mediately followed by a vertical change on the most distant
shore.” The current continues to flow thus wphill until high
water in the gulf, when it slacks and turns. Three hours later
it is flowing out with maximum strength, the gulf is level, and
low water is established outside. While the water rises outside
and the general flood-current of the coast sets to southwest, the
eulf current continues to flow out over the Sill, again wphill,
until three hours before high water without, when low water
prevails in the gulf.
(4) The water bodies move from top to bottom. A diver on
the coast of Maine observed distinct motion in 23 fathoms.”
Conclusion.—The Gulf of Maine and Bay of Fundy offer a
“dead angle” to the general flood-current to southwest, while
the ebb-current finds in it ‘‘a pocket into which the waters are
crowded and, by virtue of their vis viva, piled up in the Bay of
Fundy.” After comparing with a fluid oscillating in a bent
tube with two arms of very unequal size and inclination, the
author suggests that the Bay of Fundy tides are a result of a
rocking of the ocean into a contracting flume.
Mr Mitchell regards the Sill as a node and the oscillations in
the Gulf of Maine as produced by the periodic impulse of the
North Atlantic oscillation. It is not clear why there is no tend-
ency toward “pocketing” the flood-current in Cape Cod bay.
There also seems to be a difficulty with the period by which the
culf tides follow those of the outer shore. If there is a node on
the Sill, and that the only node, the tides without and within
should differ in time by six hours. From Mr Mitchell’s expla-
nation of the Gulf of Maine tides, however, he evidently does
not mean by node here what is usually meant by the word.
*P. 176.
ATLANTIC COAST TIDES 505
His study is important for its actual detection of oscillatory
slopes in the gulf, its notice of synchronism of tides and currents
in each of the two areas, and its frank abandonment of the pro-
eressive wave.
A more satisfactory reason for the delay in the Gulf of Maine
tides may perhaps be found in the insistence on the east-west
direction of the ocean oscillation that originates the shore tides.
The deep entrance to the gulf is about 200 miles from shore on
a northwest-southeast line. An east-west cross-section on the
shelf in latitude 43° measures more than 400 miles, reaching
the steep descent from the shelf a little south of the Sable Island
bank. Supposing the earliest impulse to enter the Gulf of Maine
be that by the deep channel, this must be followed and aug-
mented by the progressive waves across the bench, and later by
those that have come across the shallower banks. Such an im-
pulse would need to be a bodily transfer of the water-mass ; ob-
served currents are not incompatible with the idea, a northward
deflection of all water entering the gulf being brought about by
the gradient into the Bay of Fundy.
It is interesting that true nodal oscillations have been detected
in the Bay of Fundy by Mr A. W. Duff.« He finds an oscilla-
tion of the waters between St John, N. B., and Digby Gut (?) in
three segments and a period of 42 minutes, according well with
the depth and width of the section and having the northwest-
southeast direction indicated by our cotidal wave-front. A sim-
ilar oscillation of much shorter period is noted in the mouth of
the St John river. The free oscillation period of the Gulf of
Maine, however, would be much less than the observed one of a
half lunar day. The only tenable conception of the Gulf of
Maine tides as oscillations with a node on the Sill requires that
the whole ocean from the Sill to Europe form the outer segment
to the gulf waters, and this, of course, requires the gulf times
to agree with general coast times.
LONG ISLAND SOUND TIDES
No application of Mr Mitchell’s analysis to the tides of Long
Island sound is possible, as the tide unquestionably enters on
the east; yet the tide is certainly more belated here than in the
Gulf of Maine, and shows a close analogy to the fluming observed
in the Bay of Fundy. What happens in the entrance to the
basin is better known here, since the passage is a narrow one,
*Am. Journal of Science, 1897, p. 406.
506 ATLANTIC COAST TIDES
with tidal stations on either hand and even on islands out in the
channel. This entrance to the sound has a depth of 30 fathoms.
The deep axis of the sound lies near the southern shore in 15 to
20 fathoms, with a constant gentle rise to the north. The main
water body clearly oscillates en masse. This is evident from the
synchronism of tides throughout the sound. It seems equally
clear that the impulse comes from the outer coast as a progres-
sive waye, perhaps combined with a massive movement, which
consumes two hours in advancing through the 10-mile entrance.
In this reach of slow progression the ranges are naturally slight,
and there is little gain, but the narrowing and shoaling of the
western end of the sound causes the tide to augment its range
Ig i" | |
at ea Decies
uy lll
—d
Ae { O"o™
TIDAL HOURS
Fram NoMensLand
imal
LONG ISLAND SOUND
rapidly in that direction from 2 to 7.2 feet. This is accompanied
by a gentle steepening of the wave front, and is the natural re-
sult of bodily fluming the water into a narrow, shallow bay
head, whatever the driving force, as we shall see presently.
For the times it is striking that from No Mans Land to Block
island there should be a difference of but 11 minutes, while the
far shorter distance to Montauk point consumes three-quarters
of an hour. Some light may be had by referring again to the
east-west line of the oceanic oscillation. ‘The nearest deep water
to Montauk point, Block island, and No Mans Land is some 70
miles to the south. From this point, though at right angles to
the direct line of the motion, the earliest tidal impulse would
probably arrive, and the indications of early time at No Mans
Land and Block island result. This would not, however, prevent
ATLANTIC COAST TIDES 507
the transmission of the direct impulse across the Georges and
Nantucket shoals, nearly 250 miles in an easterly direction.
This impulse would be faint and retarded by the long journey
across the shoals. Reaching the islands in comparatively open
water, the effect will be there to check the falling tide in its de-
scent. At Montauk point, however, where the waters are con-
fined and the range is small, the eastern tide may overtake the
local tide soon after its greatest height and make highest water
come later than the local tide would havecome. We must think
of a massive westward motion of the water here rather than of a
progressive wave or in addition ta it. The accompanying dia-
gram (see p. 506) shows a number of tidal stations with their
times and such cotidals as can be drawn 1 h., 2 h., 3h., and 5h.
45m. No Mans Land is marked with a heavy cross.
GULF OF ST LAWRENCE TIDES
The tidal data for this area are not so numerous as is desir-
able. Like the basins described above, the deep connection with
the ocean is by achannel much inclined to the direction of ocean
movement. Here the axis of the broad entrance trends about
northwest-southeast. Impulses across the shelf by the Grand
and St Pierre banks must enter the gulf later, and may produce
the delay in high water, as before.
The tides range about four feet in amplitude at the gulf en-
trances and swash out flatter in the wide space within. Through-
out the deep area between Anticosti, Labrador, and Newfound-
land high water is fairly simultaneous, about two hours after the
outer coast tide. In the shallower southwest corner of the gulf
a tide wave progresses from the deep channel near Anticosti
along the New Brunswick coast to Prince Edward island, on which
it divides, passing both north and south of the island and pres-
ently meeting tides that come westward from the Cape Breton
entrance and the Gut of Canso. Ranges of three or four feet pre-
vail save in narrow passages. The meeting of the tides marked
on the north and south of Prince Edward island on the charts is
a meeting of cwrrents, and in the whole southwest area there is
a steady progression not only of the point of high water, but
also of the currents.
All the tide-waves in the southwest rise in 25 minutes’ less time
than they spend in falling. This is found typical of progressive
waves in shallow waters. We call such waves steep fronted and
find their extreme case among tides in bores, and in ordinary
508 ATLANTIC COAST TIDES
short waves in the surf of the beach, with quick straight uprise
of water in front and long gentle slope behind. In the north-
east, as in the shelf waters generally, rise and fall are of equal
duration.
BAY OF FUNDY TIDES
A brief note follows on a region geographically intermediate
between the estuaries and the shelf basins.
These are of a special character, as was implied in the discus-
sion of the Gulf of Maine. Itis not atypical estuary. The fact
that its area is almost coextensive with the soft Triassic sand-
stones that appear in patches all about its shores, together with
the fact that it is now rapidly cutting these remnants away, is
perfectly compatible with the former existence of Triassic rocks
through most of the area with an axial vailey, narrower and
more typical in form, through which the Petitcodiac, St John,
and St Croix poured their waters into the Gulf of Maine. Given
such conditions, the rushing tides resulting from the massive
oscillation of the gulf waters into the estuary must have tended
toward the present conditions.*
A good description of the Fundy tides is still lacking. The
ereatest mean range is of 43.5 feet in the Basin of Minas, 50 feet
at mean springs. Favoring meteorological conditions may in-
crease this by nearly one-half on rare occasions, so that a 70-foot
tide is notincredible. Itis found that narrowing bays multiply
an accidental or non-lunar disturbance of water level in the same
proportion that they do the tidal oscillation. Thus Geneva is
situated at the head of a narrowing shoaling arm of the Lake of
Geneva, perfectly comparable to the Bay of Fundy, with but a
sixteenth the water volume of the whole lake. The seiches or
swaying oscillations of the whole lake produce a wave two or
three times as great at Genevaas at points anywhere in the main
lake, for large oscillations or for small.t
Similarly, barometric disturbances over the Gulf of St Law-
rence that cause only a slight change in the small local tide add
six or seven feet to the 17-foot Quebec tide.t During a storm
which raged in Chesapeake bay in September, 1876, the water
rose four feet two inches above mean high-tide level at Alexan-
* Similarly Delaware bay is believed to have been widened by the tide, though long-
shore action in the shallows outside is continuously striving to dam it off from the sea.
+ Forel, Le Léman, vol. ii, Seiches.
£30 Jan., 1894, and 8 Feb., 1895. W. Bell. Dawson, Royal Soc, Can.,£1895, vol. i, p. 26.
PRESIDENT BELL ON JAPAN 509
dria.* Mean spring range at Alexandria is but 3 feet. Soa
‘storm rise” of four feet on the open coast was 8 feet at Hell
Gate.t During the gauging of East river “‘a moderate northeast
wind ” heaped up the western end of Long Island sound nearly
a half foot above the harbor on one occasion. It is just as easy
for “weather” to add 20 feet to the tidal rise in the Basin of
Minas as 5 feet at Lynn, Mass. (Jan. 25, 1898), where spring
range is but 11 feet.
A bore apparently exists in both Chignecto bay and the Minas
basin, where it has been described as coming in in two lines. To
judge from photographs, the bore is.but a few feet high. Details
about it are not given.
A well-established feature of these tides is the extraordinary
amounts of sediment deposited at the estuary heads. In a hol-
low iron cylinder at Windsor, Murphy } measured 30 inches of
fine sand and mud deposited from the tides in 122 days, being
uncovered at low water. W. lL. Goodwin @ states that thousands
of acres of bogland have thus been built up by the tide in West-
moreland county, N. B. .A lake 15 feet deep in 1867 was kept
in communication with the bay by a canal that the tides might
have free access. In 1892 it was quite filled and yielding hay.
In Sackville county 38,000 acres have been reclaimed. Mr Good-
win seems to refer the origin of the mud in the water to the
wearing of the rushing tides on the soft shales. Dr R. T. Jack-
son states that this is very marked at Jogeins, N.S.
The steepening of the wave-front is inconsiderable and an ad-
vance of high water as a progressive wave hardly exists where
our observations are distributed.
PRESIDENT ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL ON JAPAN
The President of the National Geographic Society, Dr Alex-
ander Graham Bell, is nowin Japan, where he has been received
with distinguished honors. On October 22 he was presented to
the Emperor in special audience, and on October 29 to the Em-
press by special command. On November 6 he was entertained
at dinner at the Imperial hotel, Tokyo, by the International
Journalists’ Association, as a tribute equally to his illustrious
*U.S. Coast Surv. Ann. Rep., 1878, p. 24.
+ U.S. Coast Surv. Ann. Rep., 1886, p. 431.
t Nova Scotian Institute, vol. vii, p. 51.
2Can. Record of Science, 1897, p. 364.
510 PRESIDENT BELL ON JAPAN
scientific career and his philanthropic work in behalf of the deaf
and dumb. The proceedings are reported at great length in the
Japan Daily Mail of November 8, and the following abstract of
the interesting address delivered by Dr Bell in responding to
the toast of his health is taken from the report in that journal.
Beginning with a graceful acknowledgment of the honor of which
he was that evening the recipient and an expression of the pleas-
ure he had derived from his long-looked-forward-to visit to that
marvelously progressive country, Dr Bell proceeded as follows :
Hundreds of vears have passed since Columbus, sailing westward, dis-
covered the land of the setting sun, and now we, looking seaward from
that land, see a new light upon the horizon, and ask ourselves what is
this strange effulgence, what is this novel luminary which begins to glow
in the firmament? That question has been present in our thoughts for
several years, and it is with no small satisfaction that I find myself able
to see your country more closely, and to observe the conditions that give
such earnest of a great future. An eminent man of science in America,
Professor Marsh, recently delivered a lecture on the teachings of geology,
and pointed out a very interesting fact. He said that on examining the
fauna of successive geological strata, a series of progressions was distinctly
visible. Thus the crocodile of one stratum was found to have a smaller
brain than the crocodile of the immediately superior stratum, and the
latter a smaller brain than the crocodile of the next stratum, and so on.
The same rule seems to apply to human beings. If we look back to the
pit-dwellers of primeval times we find a brain cavity perceptibly smaller
than that of man in later eras, and it may be confidently said that the
progress of the growth continues even to ourown time. Well, gentlemen,
Professor Marsh concluded his lecture with a remarkable statement. It
was contained in a single, short sentence, but it was a very pregnant sen-
tence. He said, “It is worthy of note that the brain of the average
Japanese is larger than the brain of the average European.” I do not
pause to draw any inferences, but I quote the fact as something of which
you may be proud—something which your recent history seems to illus-
trate. Small in stature, if you like, but large in brain; and during my
travels through your country I have been struck by the fact that nature
seems to have prepared for you a great and prosperous career. Every-
where I see long ranges of lofty mountains with comparatively narrow
planes lying between their feet and the coast line. That indicates a grand
gift. It indicates that your country should be the very home of electrical
enterprise, for such a geographical formation shows that water power is
available everywhere throughout the lowlands; that reservoirs of force
convertible into electric power can be formed at points within easy reach
of all your centers of commerce and industry, so that youare in the happy
position of being able to base the economy of your country on electricity ;
to drive your vehicles with electricity ; to substitute electricity for steam ;
to carry on your manufacturing enterprises by the agency of electricity.
One cannot exaggerate the value of this boon which nature has conferred
PRESIDENT BELL ON JAPAN dll
on you, and that you will one day utilize it fully may be confidently in-
ferred, I think, from the story of your progress during the past twenty-
five years. Iam particularly interested in observing that you appreciate
the great truth which we in the West have come to recognize: the truth
that education isthe basis of progress and prosperity. Educate the masses,
elevate their standard of intelligence, and you will certainly have a suc-
cessful nation. That is what we tell ourselves, and the latest reports of
your department of education show that it is what you tell yourselves also,
for I learn from the reports, if my memory serves me, that no less than
64 per cent of your school-age children throughout the empire are re-
ceiving education, and that, in the case of male children, the percentage
is as much as 79. Those are highly creditable figures, and they may be
accepted as evidence that your progress stands on a really sound basis.
But I do not find things equally satisfactory throughout the whole field
of education, for whereas 64 per cent of your healthy children are re-
ceiving instruction, only 3 per cent of your deaf and dumb are similarly
fortunate. Your educational statistics show that among your children of
school-going age there are no less than four thousand afflicted with the
calamity of deafness. How many of them are receiving education? Only
a hundred and twenty. Think of what that means. I do not speak
much of the blind. With them I have not had much to do. Their ca-
lamity seems too terrible. It necessarily limits the range of possible effort
on their behalf. But the deaf and dumb appeal to our sympathy all the
more strongly, inasmuch as we can do much to assist them. It is generally
supposed that dumbness indicates some radical detect of the vocal organs.
In the vast majority of cases such’ a supposition is entirely mistaken.
Dumbness comes from the fact that a child is born deaf, and that it con-
sequently never learns how to articulate, for it is by the medium of
hearing that such instruction is acquired. Puta Japanese child in Amer-
ica, and you find that it easily and without any apparent effort learns to
speak English. Putan American child in Japan, and you will soon hear
it speaking Japanese. The whole source of trouble, then, is that the ears
of these unfortunates are closed. | Their brains, their minds, are as fully
developed or as capable of development as yours or mine. Imagine the
horror of being shut off from the intellectual world that surrounds you,
debarred from all intercourse with your fellow-creatures, though all your
faculties with a solitary exception entitle you to take your place in that
world and enjoy that intercourse. JI am proud to think that we in Amer-
ica have recognized these facts and acted upon them. The money de-
voted in America to the education of the deaf and dumb is two million
dollars annually, four million yen—nearly as much as the total sum spent
out of the public funds for all educational purposes in Japan. We have
forty thousand deaf mutes in the United States, and we have upward of
eighty schools, with an attendance of about ten thousand pupils. In the
city of Philadelphia there is a school whose buildings and other property
are valued at a million dollars, or two million yen. You in Japan must
have about twenty-five thousand deaf mutes in the empire, and yet you
have only two schools for their education, one in Kyoto and onein Tokyo.
That is indeed a state of affairs that calls for remedy. Besides, this is
a12 GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
not a mere question of humanity ; it is also an economic question. With
proper education the deaf and dumb can be fitted for almost any walk in
life. Ail the range of intellectual achievement is open to them. They
can become authors; they can become painters; they can become jour-
nalists; they can discharge a number of valuable and wealth-earning
functions. There are actually forty newspapers and periodicals in the
United States written and edited by deaf mutes, chiefly for the use of ©
their fellow-unfortunates. We spend four million yen annually upon the
education of our deaf and dumb, but we find that their contributions to
the wealth of the country after they are educated exceed that amount, so —
that, instead of being a burden to the state, they become a factor of pros-
perity. You see what interest this problem has from every point of view,
and you will agree with me, I am sure, that what Japan is doing is sadly
inadequate, and that, instead of only two schools in the whole empire,
you should have at least a school in every province, as we have schools
in every State of America. You of the press are the eyes and ears of
society, and you can also be its leaders. I know the immense influence
you can exercise upon public opinion, and I trust that you will exercise
it in this noble and useful cause.
Vo lel.
GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
Cuba and Porto Rico with the Other Islands of the West Indies. Their Topog-
raphy, Climate, Flora, Products, Industries, Cities, People, Political
Conditions, etc. By Robert T. Hill, of the United States Geological
Survey. Pp. xxvill + 429, with 2 maps and 79 plates. New York:
The Century Company. 1898. $38.00.
This is one of the books of the year. It is made notable by timeliness,
and still more by breadth of view and strength of grasp. The author is
a well-known geologist and geographer, a leading authority on the struc-
ture and development of the Antillean region as well as Central America,
Mexico, and southern United States; yet this latest publication is his
magnum opus, and displays his ability to deal with scenic features, social
problems, questions of statecraft, historical events, and softer literature
no less efficiently than with the technical problems of his special science.
The work of the publishers is equally creditable ; no more tasteful and ele-
gant specimen of book-making has ever left the De Vinne press and Century
house. Most of the abundant illustrations are delicately tooled halftones,
and the cover is a work of art; the lists of contents and illustrations are
full, the introduction is germane, and the index is adequate. The
first chapter is devoted to the geographic relations of the West Indies; the
second to the West Indian waters, including submarine configuration and
conditions; the third to the geographic classification of the West Indian
islands; and these form an admirable summary of current knowledge,
illumined and interpreted by personal observation. The fourth chapter
is an original description of the Greater Antilles in terms of physical and
political characters, with constant reference to natural resources and social
i)
GHOGRAPHIC LITERATURE 5168
iS
conditions. Then come ten chapters on the island of Cuba, depicting
the physical features and the climate, flora, and fauna, describing the
conditions of health and sanitation, defining the geographic subdivisions,
setting forth the resources of the island and the facilities for commerce
and transportation, analyzing the population, describing the cities, and
discussing the future of the island. These chapters are based chiefly on
first-hand knowledge, supplemented by historical and statistical research ;
they give a remarkably clear picture of the Pearl of the Antilles and her
people, and bear inherent evidence of fair and dispassionate judgment.
In discussing health and sanitation, the author departs from his custo-
mary impersonal treatment long enough to offer suggestions which every
tropical traveler would do well to note. ‘* Three rules I have followed in-
variably: first, to adapt my habits of dress, food, and hours of work and
rest to those of the people of the country ; secondly, never in any cireum-
stances to drink a drop of native water where it could possibly be avoided,
and if so always to boil it. For this purpose I have always earried an al-
cohol-lamp and a tin canteen, in which, when boiled water could not other-
wise be obtained, I could myself attend to the matter. Twice when, in
desperation after tedious exercises, I yielded to the temptation of drink-
ing the native water unboiled, the results were almost fatal. The third
rule has been never to linger around the densely crowded and unsanitary
areas of cities, and always to choose a room facing on the street ’’ (page
60). He also advises against miscellaneous eating of fruits. The chap-
ters on the people of Cuba and the future of the island are warmed by
appreciation of a kindly and hospitable folk who, despite languorous
antecedents and enervating climate, have struggled long and shed their
blood freely for civil liberty. Chapters fifteen to nineteen are
devoted to the island of Puerto Rico, and present a clear picture of this
newly acquired insular territory of the United States; then follow three
chapters on Jamaica, the well-ordered island, justly considered a model
British colony. The lively paragraphs, enriched by well-chosen incident,
indicate that while the colony.is indeed British, the white Anglo-Saxon
nucleus about which the darker plasma flows is very small, and, albeit
effective in governmental control, of only moderate influence in shaping
the current thought of the prevailing population. ‘‘ The Jamaica negroes
are sui generis; nothing like them, even of their own race, can elsewhere
be found—not even elsewhere in the West Indies”? (page 227). The
twenty-third chapter, describes the much-named island of Santo Do-
mingo—the designation preferred by the author if the old name “‘ His-
paniola” must be abandoned; and a chapter is devoted to each of
the two republics planted on the island. The central body of the Antil-
lean group, this island is the most striking of all in its culminating alti-
tude, in topographic diversity as well as in natural picturesqueness, and
eyen more interesting in historical associations ; the site of the first Euro-
pean colony in the New World, the place of introduction of African sla-
very into America, the field of frequent battle and reeking bloodshed,
the scene of the dark tragedy of Toussaint Ouverture and site of the
Black Republic, this miniature continent has played a leading role in the
i)
514 GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
history of several nations, as Mr Hill’s pages happily show, and has given
origin to two of the world’s significant experiments in popular govern-
ment. The subject of the twenty-sixth chapter is the Bahamas;
then the Lesser Antilles—including of course storied Martinique, mother-
land of Josephine—and the Caribbees, the South American islands of
Trinidad and Tobago and Curacao, and last of all Barbados, are treated
in nine chapters. A chapter on the geological features of the West Indies
cannot fail to attract scientific geographers, while the final (thirty-sev-
enth and thirty-eighth) chapters on race problems in the West Indies
and on the future of this insular realm are worthy the scrutiny of states-
men. The scope of the book cannot better be indicated than by
noting that it represents the recent observations and generalizations of a
trained geographer, expressed in non-technical language; that it contains
the best account extant of Cuba and its people; that it embodies the latest
and largest accessible information concerning Puerto Rico; that its chap-
ters on Jamaica form the most convenient description of that island
printed on this side of the Atlantic; that its account of Santo Domingo
and its two republics is the only full and trustworthy one available; and
finally that the work, as a whole, is by far the most complete and useful
description of the West Indies, considered collectively, issued during
recent years—indeed, it is the only modern handbook of the mid-Ameri-
can isles, and the best source of general information concerning each of
them. Members of the National Geographic Society will feel a
direct interest in the book as the work of one of their number; and the
interest will be the greater in that it took inception in addresses before
the Society and a widely read paper in Tor Nationa GroaraPHic M AG-
AZINE for May last. While there are a few marks of haste in putting the
material together—e. g., the misspelling of the name of a surgeon-general
in body and index—the volume conveys the impression of large personal
acquaintance with, and of mature thought concerning, its important sub-
ject.
We Jie Me
wilway Economics. By H.T. Newcomb. Pp.152. Philadelphia: Rail-
way World Publishing Company. 1898. $1.00.
Into this exceedingly well-printed and in every way attractive volume
Prof. H. T. Newcomb, whose contributions to periodical literature long
ago gained for him an enviable reputation as a clear, sound, and forcible
economic writer, especially on railroad subjects, has compressed an im-
mense amount of valuable information bearing upon the transportation
problem. The book is principally devoted to the development, classifi-
cation, and analysis of facts concerning railroad rates and rate-making,
and conclusions, except those most essential and obvious, are left to the
reader. It is interesting to observe that, having approached the subject
from the view-point of public interest, the author’s examination of the
history and present condition of railroad transportation tends unmistak-
ably to justify the limitation of competition, which, as between railroads,
he plainly regards as costly and mischievous.
Jemele
GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE 515
The Philippine Islands and their People. A Record of Personal Observation
and Hxepertence, with a Short Summary of the More Important Facts in the
History of the Archipelago. By Dean C. Worcester, Assistant Professor
of Zoology, University of Michigan. New York: The Macmillan
Company. 1898. Pp. xix + 529, with 2 maps and many illustra-
tions in text.
This is primarily a book of travel—incidentally one of adventure. It
is enriched by an introductory chapter in which the history of the Philip-
pines is summarized, and by an appendix of eighteen pages in which the
natural resources of the islands are described in such detail as to render
this part of the book a standard source of information, more comprehen-
sive than any other now available. Professor Worcester first
visited the Philippines in September, 1887, as an amateur naturalist at-
tached to a scientific expedition ; he remained eleven months, reaching
fifteen of the principalislands. His second visit began in July, 1890, and
extended over more than two years, during which period he remained on
each of nineteen islands ‘‘ long enough to get a fairly representative col-
lection of its birdsand mammals” (page x). The scientific results of his
work and that of his companions (especially Dr Frank S. Bourns) have
been turned over to various scientific institutions, notably the U. S$. Na-
tional Museum, which now has in press an elaborate report on the orni-
thology of theisland prepared by these naturalists. The narrative of the
journeys and experiences, and the observations on people and things in
general, are incorporated in the book under notice. The graphic para-
graphs present a succession of living pictures combining to create realistic
impressions concerning the islandsand their people; and, while the story
is told in the first person, the unaffected language and contagious good
humor of the author combine to render it attractive and easy of assimila-
tion. Passing over fields previously untrodden by the Caucasian,
as he did in different places, Professor Worcester was able to make sub-
stantial contributions to different branches of science. New water-ways
were discovered and mapped, important details of topography were noted,
and the distribution of plants and insects, as well as of birds, was ascer-
tained ; he was apparently the first white man to visit certain native
tribes, and one of the first to see the curious and ferocious little wood
buffalo, the timarau—the mythic unicorn-cyclops of the Mindoro jungles ;
his descriptions of the Mangyan and Tagbanua tribes are noteworthy
contributions to ethnology ; while his visit to the Taal voleano of Luzon
cannot fail to convey useful impressions to the geologist. The
chief value of the book to serious students lies in the description of civil
misrule under the so-called government, and in his accounts of the charac-
teristics of the Filipinos. The reflections on civil affairs are evidently tem-
perate and carefully guarded—indeed no serious criticism is uttered with-
out reference to Foreman, whose sympathies were with the established
chureh and state. For example, Worcester remarks of the Spanish offi-
cials, ‘‘ They are expected to steal more or less. That is what they are
there for, and they do not hesitate to admit it. Time and again I have
heard them say of themselves, when discussing the matter, ‘We are a
nation of thieves’; and if I may judge from what I myself saw, much
516 GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
might be said in support of this view of the case. If peculation becomes
too extensive, however, so that the perquisites of those in high places are
interfered with, an investigation is ordered’’ (page 469). But Foreman
says, ‘‘ If the peculations by the government employés, from the highest
circles downward, could be arrested, the inhabitants of this colony would
doubtless be several millions richer per annum. One is frequently hear-
ing of officials leaving for Spain with sums far exceeding the total emol-
uments they have received during their term of office. Some provincial
employés acquire a pernicious habit of annexing what is not theirs, by
all manner of pretexts. To cite one of many instances: I knew a gov-
ernor of Negros island who seldom saw a native pass the Government
house with a good horse without begging it of him; thus, under fear of
his avenging a refusal, his subjects furnished him little by little with a
large stud, which he sold before he left, much to their disgust ’’ (page 471).
The taxes and the methods of collecting them are atrocious: The coman-
dante of Panay ‘‘reconcentrated” his people in villages in order to facili-
tate the collection of taxes; and he amused himself by riding about the
country and firing the houses of those who delayed gathering in the vil-
lages designated. ‘‘ We one day saw him burn three native huts. He
gave the inmates no warning, but in each case jumped from his horse,
pulled a bunch of dry grass, lighted it and thrust it into the thatch, which
burned like tinder. Those within jumped from doors and windows in
their haste to escape. When a house was completely burned, he very
courteously suggested that it might be well for its occupants to look for a
site in town when ready to rebuild” (page 234). The same comandante
had an ingenious device for bringing delinquent tax-payers to terms: ““ He
caused them to be caught and tied to trees, and then set a large and vicious
dog on tothem, and encouraged it to worry them ”’ (page 234). An equally
ingenious officer armed his tax-gatherers with a sort of cat-o’-nine-tails
made from vines of the bejuco, which are circled at intervals of an inch or
two by rings of recurved thorns; with these bloody devices the delinquent
was lassoed and dragged before the tribunal, where he was stripped to the
waist, extended on a bench, and flogged methodically with a rattan which
cut the skinand brought blood with each blow. ‘‘ We were often forced to
witness these cruel whippings during our stay. Some of the victims lay -
still and bore their torture in silence ; others cried out, and threw them-
selves from the bench, with every blow. If they made too much trouble in
this way, they were tied in place. After the whipping they were shut into
the jail beneath the tribunal, and kept there until relatives or friends paid
their debts. If there was too much delay, another whipping followed.
Men sometimes died from the effects of these beatings, and women were
subjected to the same inhuman treatment as men” (page 256). The be-
juco itself was sometimes used for flogging, but not commonly, since the
results were too often fatal. The taxes so barbarously collected were
levied on almost every conceivable form of property or privilege; the
annual tax for the cedula personal, or document of identity, varied from
fifty cents to twenty-five dollars according to the supposed means of the
applicant, and no person could transact business or travel without such a
document; cocoanut trees were subject toan annual tax of five cents, and
GHOGRAPHIC LITERATURE 517
a tax was required for the license to run the oil-press for extracting value
from the ripe cocoanuts. The producer had to pay for a license to sell
his bananas or rice or milk; the owner could not kill his buffalo or his hog
for needed meat without a tax of two to four dollars; he could not even
fell a tree on his own homestead without paying for the privilege. ‘‘ It
must be remembered that a man’s wages are frequently not more than
five or ten cents per day; that a large majority of the people cannot get
work at any price; and that the taxes are not the whole story, for the
village friar is yet to be reckoned with, and he has ways of his own for re-
lieving his parishioners of their pence” (page 237). Sometimes the friars
were kindly and generous, but so many were otherwise as to lower the
average, and apparently more than nullify the occasional benefit-of their
presence. Their charges for marriage were so extortionate ‘‘as to give
rise to a widespread and almost necessary custom of dispensing with it ”
(page 347) ; the minimum charge for burial in Masbate was fifty dollars,
or seventy-five if a coffin was used (which itself was sold by the priest at
a good price); one padre was not content with prohibiting the burial in
holy ground of bodies whose families could not pay the charges, but
“caused them to be exposed on the trees about the village square, where
they were left to the tender mercies of carrion-eating birds until such
time as relatives or friends compensated the holy father in advance for
his services’? (page 314). On the whole, it seems evident that the civil
conditions in the island have been such as to check progress, to pre-
vent industrial development, and to render miserable the lives of the
people. Referring to the people themselves, Professor Worcester
says: ‘The writers in our current literature who lump the whole popu-
lation of the Philippines as barbarians and savages are grossly in error”
(page 472). In addition to the Caucasians, Chinese, and a few Japa-
nese, there are more than eighty distinct tribes, conveniently grouped
as Neegritos, pagan Malays, Mohammedan Malays, and civilized Ma-
lays. The Negritos ‘‘are rapidly disappearing, and seem destined to
speedy extinction” (page 473); the pagan Malays comprise the im-
portant tribes of aborigines retaining primitive characteristics. Some
of them are savage in disposition and are given to head-hunting and
other bloodthirsty customs, though most are harmless and docile and
eminently susceptible to civilization. The Mohammedan Malays, or
Moro, retain divers traits of savagery, some of them intensified by
the fanaticism of a barbaric religion ; the most obnoxious of them are
the juramentados, who, having taken oath to die killing Christians
as the price of eternal glory, arm themselves, enter the nearest town,
and run amok among the residents, slaying every living being within
reach until themselves slain ; but even these people yield to wise govern-
ment combining justice and firmness, as shown by the success of General
Arolas in dealing with them. ‘The civilized Malays are hospitable,
cheerful, fairly honest according to their lights, self-respecting, genial,
and notably ready to tolerate judicious government; most of them are
constitutionally indolent, though in those islands in which hard natural
conditions make it difficult to earn a livelihood they are noted for their
industry ; yet it is not to be forgotten that they are primitive people,
518 GHOGRAPHIC LITERATURE
without the strong hereditary character of civilized and enlightened
men—. e., in the words of an observing priest, they are ‘‘ big children
who must be treated like little ones’’ (page 482). The book is
rather sumptuous, printed on thick paper in large type (composed in
England, judging from the laboured orthography), supplied with a good
map, and illustrated with excellent halftone reproductions of the author’s
photographs.
WJ M.
Volcanoes of North America: A Reading Lesson for Students of Geography
and Geology. By Israel C. Russell, Professor of Geology in the Uni-
versity of Michigan, etc. Pp. xrv + 346, with maps and _illustra-
tions. New York: The Macmillan Company. 1897. $4.00.
It is gratifying to note that after many years of ultra-specialization a
geologist and geographer has undertaken the task of summing up the
knowledge of the broader features of our continent. In this work Pro-
fessor Russell has presented a summary of the distribution of the volea-
noes, living and extinct, of the North American continent, and has suc-
ceeded in producing a readable and admirable volume. The first quarter
of the book is devoted to a discussion of the characteristics of voleanoes
in general, dealing with the types of volcanic eruptions, the nature of
the ejecta, the life history of eruptions, the geomorphology of volcanic
forms, subterranean intrusions of igneous rocks, and classification of
igneous rocks based upon mineral characters. While these subjects are
ably treated by Professor Russell and would well become a text book of
geology, we cannot but begrudge the valuable space they occupy, which
later necessitated a condensation of his descriptions of the volcanoes
themselves. It is also regrettable that the author, in illustrating the
character of voleanic action, should have used so many foreign examples,
when abundant material could be found at home. He need not have
gone outside of North America and the adjacent Hawaiian and West India
islands to have found illustrations of every known type of volcanic activ-
ity and productivity. We doubt if even the explosion of Krakatoa
itself, which the author so freely cites, much exceeded in wide-reaching
effect the tremendous catastrophe of Morne Garon, St Vincent, in 1812,
which affected American geography from Chili to New Madrid, destroy-
ing many cities, notably Caracas. In the mud craterlets of the Sonoran
coastal deserts, the frequently active Colima of southern Mexico, the
numerous active voleanoes of Central America, and the volcanoes of the
Aleutian and Hawaiian islands, the author could have found abundant
illustrations of all known volcanic phenomena.
Following the geological introduction is a compendium of the distribu-
tion of voleanoes of North America, active and recent, which is the best
that has ever been presented. This is most instructive reading and will
be exceedingly useful to the future student who will take up this subject
and pursue it more extensively, for there is no more tempting or more
profitable field for research on the part of some one who has means and
opportunity than a systematic exploration and description of the North
American volcanoes, especially those of Mexico and Central America
and the Caribbee islands.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY 519
Into 38 pages the author crowds a valuable compilation of the known
facts concerning the Central American volcanoes, 64 of which are enumer-
ated. Only 18 pages are given to the volcanoes of Mexico, including
those wonderful giants of the New World, Popocatapetl, Ixtaccihuatl,
Xinantecatl, Tuxtla, Perote, ete., which le almost at our very doors, and
are so accessible to all who are in search of knowledge. It seems some-
what disproportionate, after so briefly describing the sites of greatest
North American voleanic development, that 90 pages should be given to
the relatively trivial and mostly prehistoric voleanie phenomena of the
United States; but when we consider that these are here more fully and
comprehensively presented than hitherto attempted, we feel grateful to
the author and overlook his brief consideration of the more typical North
American voleanic areas. It would have been well had Professor Rus-
sell included on his map and in his text some mention of the latter, which
stretch across the eastern gateway of the American Mediterranean, and
of the volcanic cinder cones, perhaps the most perfect in the United
States, occurring east of the Rio Grande in New Mexico; and since he
included dead volcanoes, also the stocks of southwestern Texas, the only
ones of the kind, so far as we are aware, occurring within the Southern
Atlantic Coastal plain of the United States.
Asa whole, Professor Russell’s work is thoroughly commendable and
will not only prove a welcome addition to the library of those scien-
tifically inclined, but will accomplish much in the laudable direction of
placing within the hands of the layman a most readable treatise upon a
technical subject.
Itt, “Ge Jel.
PROCEEDINGS OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
SOCIETY, SESSION 1898-’99
Regular Meeting, November 4, 1898.—Col. Henry F. Blount in the chair.
Lieut. D. H. Jarvis, U. S. Revenue Cutter Service. gave an account of
the Point Barrow Relief Expedition, winter of 1897-’98, illustrating his
remarks by lantern slides.
Regular Meeting, November 18, 1898.—Mr W J McGee inthe chair. Prof.
Robert T. Hill delivered an address on Cuba and Its People, illustrating
his remarks by lantern slides showing the architecture, manufacturing
establishments, mode of travel, scenery, and types of inhabitants of the
island.
Special Meeting, November 25, 1898.—Mr W J McGee in the chair. Chief
Engineer Harrie Webster, U. 8. Navy, gave an illustrated lecture on
Korea.
Regular Meeting, December 2, 1898.—My W J McGee in the chair. Prof.
W. Edwin Priest, Central High School, Washington, D. C., gave an illus-
trated lecture on the Spanish in Europe and America.
At the conclusion of the lecture an informal reception was given to
520 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
members of the Cuban delegation, the receiving party consisting of Gen-
eral José Miguel Gomez, Colonel Manuel Sanguily, Dr Jose A. Gonzales
Lanuza, Sefior Quesada, and Sefior Ricardo Diaz-Albertini.
Evecrions.—New members have been elected as follows :
September 14, 1898.—Mrs Emma Shaw Colcleugh, Porter Graves, Miss
Belle H. Stone.
October 7.—Miss Mabel L. Allen, Floyd N. Barber, Miss Etta Blowers,
William S. Campbell, Charles R. Dean, Jerome F. Johnson, Henry
Landes, Miss Sarah M. Lilley, Miss Kate Marsden, F. F. Murdock Mrs
Ellen S. Mussey, Samuel Hubbard, C. N. Osgood, Walter S. Bnnaee, Wass
Louise C. Patterson, R. B. Tuley, Rev. John D. Whitney, Major Edmund
Wilkes.
October 21.—Miss Laura A. Colbath, Miss Maude Fierce, Mrs J. Ellen
Foster, W. C. Haldeman, C. Munro Hall, Frederic H. Holmes, William T
Horine, Major Jed Hotchkiss (life), A. J. Knowlton, Miss Harriett B
Sargent, Mrs Helen M. Wilcox. ;
November 10.—Mrs M. F. Adams, Miss Belle Allen, Rev. Henry Baker,
George F. Bird, Dr J. H. Clark, U. 8. N.; Prof. Jobn L. Ewell, Miss
Elizabeth 8S. Hungerford, Homer M. Kintz, Lieut. Francis A. Levis, U.S.
Rk. C. S.; Le Duc de Loubat (F. Loubat), life, F. W. McReynolds, J.
Oliver Moque, Dr Nora Moyer, J. H. Ralston, Dr Eugene C. Rice, Dr
Thomas E. Ridgway, Miss Helen Frances Shedd, W. H. Singleton, Mrs
Elizabeth C. Sloan, J. Henry Smith, Dr William H. Spencer, Lieut. John
W. Stewart, U. S. N.; Dr William A. Stewart, Miss Alice B. Train,
Alexander G. Uptegraff, M. A. Winter, D. W. Woods.
November 18.—Willard Abbott, William J. Acker, Mrs F. E. Bach,
Edwin C. Clark, Randolph D. Hopkins, Mrs Clara K. Ingersoll, Bernard
H. Lane, Dr Hanson T. A. Lemon, Miss K. lL. Patterson, Electus A.
Pratt, Dr William Seaton, W. H. Tapley, Charles W. Taylor, Waldo B.
Truesdell, George Westinghouse, Jr. (life).
Upon nomination by Prof. W J McGee, William McKinley, President
of the United States, was elected an honorary member.
December 2, 1898.—Miss May W. Cameron, J. B. Collins, Mrs Carrie R.
Cox, Mrs Charlotte E. Danforth, Ernest P. Goodrich, Miss Annie Grey,
Alfred Holmead, Miss A. 8S. Mallett, Francois EK. Matthes, Mrs 8S. W. Mc-
Call, E. Meade, Hon. F. W. Mondell, Miss Elvira G. Parker, Miss Kath-
erine Raber, Major Henry Romeyn, U.S. A., Frank R. Rutter, Ph D.,
Norman E. Webster, Jr., Mrs John T. Wood.
Elections to fill vacancies on Board of Managers:
October 21.—Prof. Willis L. Moore, Chief of the U. 8. Weather Bureau,
was elected a member of the Board of Managers to fill the unexpired
term of Lieut. Everett Hayden, U.S.N., removed from the city and
transferred, at his own request, to corresponding membership.
November 18.—Prof. Henry 8. Pritchett, Superintendent of the U.S.
Coast and Geodetic Survey, was elected a member of the Board of Man-
agers to fill the unexpired term of Prof. G. K. Gilbert, resigned.
dss is MUNNEAPOLIS,
nd Bor the lat 1808, number uf Tas
showing all CABLE AND OVERLAD 1D '
eke
ro
INDEX
age
Apams, Henry C., Review of book by........ 253
IAWRIGA, NOLES OM... ,-..:0.0-cccoescneseeeeecors coo
AGassiz, ALEXANDER, cited on West ‘Tn:
CIS} Ghosnassononsoocesqons nonsadaaseoncnoanoooadn . 244, 246
AGricutrure, Cuban... 212
= Th JAVIER | ean peoocosooosceEdgpoceooanceess 178
— — the Philippine 265
— — — Yukon valley.. ne 189
AGrosrotoey, Work of division of. 338
AGUILLE SANS Nom, Ascent of... . 448
Airy, Sir Grorce, Suggestion of, ‘with re-
gard to tides
Anaska and its mineral resources; S. F.
ANIMA ONS Htqacseeceeccsrsccesecevscetsesssccssecses: 139
Civil government of; George C. Per-
KCTS) sboobag bscheaseodbnoceasbosbarecachort Hecsraccadad - 172
—, Climatic conditions of; A. W. Greely... 132
—, Coast line Of.........2. .eecee eee .. 120
—, Geographie features of. 105
, Notes on the wild fowl and game ani-
mals of; E. W. Nelson... 121
—, Review of literature on. 192
, Rivers of...... shaSBodasbeppaBeonaCes 85
” Routes to.. 3
ea SOul Oissessaoe 3
—, Some of the conditions and possibilities
of agriculture in; Walter H. Evans..... 178
Anien, H. T., Explorations by............:....
Auten, J. A., cited on Alaskan fauna Pe
Auvorp, H. E., Record of lecture by.........
Amprup, —., Expedition to Greenland by. 448
AMERICAN ASSOCIATION FOR THE ADVANCE-
MEN’ OF Science; John Hyde.......... 412_
American Repusiics, Bureau Of...... .... 338
PANDO RUG AM HIUUG UO Of Ollens meres secsteeices cnc sicci oeelaeriect 385
Anprér, An interesting rumor concern-
ing; John Hyde...... naehpuosecacaneaanneddadaada 102
ANpREWS glacier, Naming of 10
APPALACHIAN province, Geological forma- 1-
LOMB OLerct sete eee neers eas nea senas Ala bec ans. seme icts 313
ArcHmonoey of Greenland:.....,..............0056 8
Axcric exploration.............. 1, 102
ARYANIZATION of Greenland.............-. 9
AvLanrre coast tides ; Mark 8. W. Jefferson 497
— estuarine tides; Mark S. W. Jefferson... 400 -
— plain, Geological formation of............... B13
—, What is the tide of the open; Mark
S. W. Jefferson . 465
AvmosPHERE, Definition of....... > 436
Bass, Cyrus C.; A relic of the Lewis and
Clarke expedition................::...:s0eeseees 100
Baker, Marcus; The historical develop-
ment of the National Capital............... 323
Barnarp, E. C., Surveyor of Bitter Root
TOMESTMOS OLN Cy ircccaerdecssdeseresecsssuracenescees 389
BavanG-HARAU WATERFALLS, Description of 460
Baxter, J. Puinney, Record of lecture by.. 104
Brean, Epmunp, Explorations in Alaska by.
Bearpstey, L. A., Reference to work of.....
Brecker, G. F., Explorations in Alaska by. 141
Bei, ALEXANDER GRAHAM, cables for news
(je ININCHHE Dy scads ee sbocceu-ne as eeoe sodobahoacoose00000 102
, Election of, as President ‘of the Na-
tional Geographic Society........ pasdsouecac 28
—, Letter from Captain Sigsbee to 25
— on Japan; John Hyde.......... Risa ene sere, 40}9)
—, Memorial to President Hubbard by....... 40
—, Portrait of 3
BENJAMIN, Marcus, Memorial to Presic
EU DUNGY isesesueseasreccass\eseveonccsenecessescess 53
36
Brirps of Alaska...
—— West Indies
Birver Roor FOREST RESERVE ;
GOOG cies cs cctb-nates eecuee
— — lake....
— — mountains
Bs6riine (Mt), N Jaming Ole
Richard U.
Buopeert, James H., Review by
Boas, Franz, Acknowledgment to book
by sanese bonboocodceanae 83
Botany, Work of div co Bate!
Boye, Davin, Acknowledgment to........... 83
Brewer, W. H., Record of lecture by........ 376
Bripce CREEK WATERFALLS, Description of. 424
Brunn, Dantet, Norse researches by........ 74
cited on national develop-
Buckie, H. T.,
ment
BurReEAvU oF AMERICAN H1HNOLOGY
—— — —, Geographie work by ; W J Me-
Cr cococacoasps.cousdacgqanooostodastenoc0od5 poncdedicdecd 98
*— — AMERICAN REPUBLIC
By-Laws, Amendments to...
Cariieter, Louis, Reference to work of....
CAMPBELL, Ropert, Reference to work of... 107
Canapa, Import trade of..................06 448
—, People of. 96
Cartpou of Alaska... 125
CARROLL GLACIER, Naming of. 10
Census (The), Work of................ 33:
CENTRAL PLAIN, Geological formation of..... 312
CENTROSPHERE, Definition of..
CHAMBERLIN (M7), Naming of.
CuapmMaNn, Frank M.; The origin of W est
Irn olrieny, Jone Nlrinits\so 3 sceneacooascenaccaececoadndeecerbe: 243,
CHAVES MAP, Discussion of ........ puis coon BY
CHELAN LAKE; Henry Gannett ..
CHICKASAW NATION, Partition of..
CHILKOOT PASS, Picture Of ............00.eee0e00 e
CuurcHiLL, Wm., cited on Samoan myth... 12
CLEVELAND, PRESIDENT, establishes Bitter
Root forest reserve
Cruimare of Alasl
— — Cuba
== > 1PlanillMyoy OMNES c-coneoonocsaacececoancoasdbocosesncee 261
CLoup scenery of the High Plains; Wil-
lard D. Johnson
Coat in Alaska. .............-..
CoastaL province of the District of Colum-
bia eatUnTesOlslce:atccsscencsetaseertetes
Coast AND GEODETIC SuRVEY. Work of. re
Coast tides, Atlantic; Mark S.W.Jefferson. 497
Cocoanut (The) Samoan ; pA WislGaree liveness
Cotumsta formation, Features of.
Cook, J., cited on Tassie s
CoRDILLERAN province, Geological forma-
IFIK NA Oli epau ee occosoonencpossadacd bond secnapencouanceUacc 311
CorrHeL, BE. L., Review of book by........... 72
Cory, C. B., Acknowledgment to............... 243
CoviLuE, F. V., Record of lecture by......... 375
CORA Robert T. Hill ... 193
, Birds @lissoooee . 245
—) Climate of... . 209
XG ommerce of 217
Sin rade of the United States with ; John
PLY Leyes ea ostatne cee ecesserestacssincasenenesecee 247
Curtis bill for the protection of Indians... 487
Curtis, W. E., Record of lecture by......... 414
CUSHING, FRANK, quoted on Zufiis.............. 308
922 . INDEX
Page
IDV ATONE TANT INET WIOYES One sanesoscoacncsosocousasecoos 10
Daur, Wititam H.; A Yukon pioneer, Mike
IL STORES cecscos sender ecansnoseccuoacEocBanSIoCIaUIeEOS 137
== Sessllonious in Alaska by - 13%, 14h
, Naming of sheep after....... 128
— 3 The future of the Yukon gold fields... 117
The Metlakatla mission in dangev...... _ 187
DearS. N. H., Record of lectures by.. 71, 414
Dayrpson, GEORGE :, Acknowledgment OME OS
= AGIFEGKOMBAV ASIA Rececccsceescecctenes comes eeceajecs 108
Davis, ArvHuR P., Record of lecture by... 32
Davis, Cuarnes H., Acknowledgment to... 31
Dawes Commisston, Work of...... Eades eens 185
Dawson, Grorer M., cited on deposits........ 166
— —— Fort Selkirk............
Explorations by
no. MOR
. 140
Daw son, SamueEt E., Rey iew of book WN\foooe IL
DepartMenr or AGricuLtrurs, Work of....... 337
Dewar, James, Reference to work of.. . 440
Dickey, W. A., cited on Alaskan gold.. 168
Disrricr or CotumbBra, Formations Of......... 320
— — —, Geographic development of ; W J
NY IG CXS Oras se seescodenee scoatosdad nodes ecocbbanc recone 317
Donen, Richarp H., Record of lecture by.. 104
1D Yannis VANS Woy Cullkevel yal TaWOKeGasconeos soadedtoooecu 5
Duncan, Wiiitam, Reference to work of...
DunHAM, S
C., Review of bool: by...... ..... 25°
Eartu, Temperature of.........
EpMuNDS IsLAND, Naming of
Epucarion, American Geographic; W J
INI@IG EXE ioe cateanbonddoosasepedachoonn osaguasabuadaqdadas 305
Eearesron, Epwarp, Record of lecture by.. 375
ELecrioy of members......... 32, TL, 376, 416, 520
ELLESMERE LAND, Proposed exploration Oleg - Il
Exticorr, Magor "ANDREW, surveyor of grant
7 HOR Aion Capital........
Exior, D. G., Record of lecture by
Exons, S. es Alaska and its mineral re-
SOURCES Heeeeesree
ENGINEER cores, U. }
Envomotoey, Work of division ot.
ERLINGSSON, THORSYEINN, Norse researches
by Rts eeeeeeye oil
Eskimo, Boats of. 5 SS
— (On) ‘geographic names ending in mit ;
Aaa MMUACIOONA bagudaron csqsseadadadnadsodaséeseonn 190
—, Mythie notions of.. 129
— settlements..............0.2... +. eoliee
Evunotoey, Work of the bureau of.. 98, 33%
— of the Philippines Liucvisciavess eispatanes
Evans, Watrer H., Review of book by.
—; Some of the conditions and possibili-
ties of agriculture in Alaska............... 178
Everette, Wittis K., Explorations by...... 112
HEWELL, J. li., Record of lecture by............ 414
BELECHIED, Davin G.; Sumatra’s west
Oast........
BAUN wa of Alaska,
— — Greenland...
—— — the Philippin
— — West Indies....
Ferret, Wriiram, Author of “Tyeatise on
AVG eis Oe poser bocoac cateocnis Ho tipoaCOSo Deb Ed HOGAOEE OS 465
Finiert, Frripro pr, quoted on the Prince
Luigi Amadeo expedition ap) 983
Fisn Commisston, Work of. ono Grats)
Fircn, ( ; The five civilized tribes and
the survey of the Indian Territory 481
Firzroy, Ronery, cited on tides... AT4
Five civilized tribes, Government of.. 483
Frora of Alaska .. 180
— — Cuba . 209
ae 200 4
—— the Philippin ... 264
Froripa, regina of.. OO
— coast line canal . 242, 480
PARA ACOL PICT RELL ROD GIIIO 26
Page
HORESISS DSU GhIOMMOtesestessdatesteeeseeettneree 387
— of State of Washington, Condition of... 410
Forest reserve, Bitter Root; Richard U.
Goode 5 Bhat
HE ORDSTENS, Worl: of div sion of - 338
TRY Statistics,
Forp, WortHin NGTON C., Rev iew of book by.. 253
Foreman, Joun, cited on Philippines........ 295
Fort pE Kock, Town in Sumatra.............. 458
Fowkek, Gerarp, Acknowledgment to.. ..... 83
FRENCH-CaNnaApiIaNs, The origin of.............. 96
Fryer (Mt), Ne amine of. 10
FULLER (Mt), Naming of.. 10
CANNEL Henry, Book reviews by.. 256.
—; Captain Charles D. Sigsbee, U! . 250
—; Geographic work of the gener: al gov-
CLINI CT oer Se EN SS ad ne eee 329
—; Lake Chelan 417
—; Our foreign trade. gadancdenocnn oc | PAL
==, INGORE Oit WEOUWMURS 1ON7 coaasesasbes200 sacacsoosee% 104
—; The forest conditions and standing
timber of the state of Washington...... 410
GANNEr?, 8. 8., Reference to work of......... 98
—, Surveyor of Bitter Root forest reserve. 389
GARLAND, Hamiin; Overland routes to the
Klondike.. 113
GEODETIC SURVEY (Co: Work Olissoco BaD
Grograputc development, Deanition (Obo6035 318
— edueation, American; W J McGee........ 305
iterate mee ee 295 71, WI), 2535 Aa, ole
—names in West Greenland; Ralph
REE Bro cenepe naa ccaoseorecrecoaarbaedanssscaasobocio 103
= INOW cooropecnc00n00006 32, 72, 448, 480
— serial 256
— work, Bureaus and department ¢
Geonoay of Alaska sdete
— — Cuba So
GEoLogrcan Sury BY, Annua Rea
——, Divisiou of hydrography of..
—_ ‘ Div ision of statistics of.
= = Forest division of.
_— mes of. 29
, Work of cacboes SRY)
—-—,— -— in subdivision of Indian Ter-
ritory raltiaislenm ete ecw aneR nese eRe iaunae eatensee 487
GEOsPHEREs, The; WJ MeGee...
GiLtBERY, G. K., editor of Pueblo Folio......
—; Origin of the physical features of the
United States...
—, Record of lectures by
Git BAY, Naming of......
Girman, Dantet C., Memorial to President
Hubbard by
Guacters, Features of.
Guave, E. J., Explorations by..
GOODE, RICHARD U.; Bitter Root forest ba
SXENPIE):gcpatlosgucobeodosansauaaasee 06 387
—, Record of lecture by 104
—; The height of Mt Rainier 97
Goopricu, H. B., Exploration by 141
GOLDFIELDS of Alaska
— in Alaska......... Sadee
Gomez and the New York gulf; L. D.
SGISG Ores tenes ects ebenccure ae ourensce eee 371
Gore, Mrs J. H., Record of lecture by...... 375
GOVERNMENT, Geographic work of; Henry
GAC Uber cen tates ep tnce sieceounnuee sassemea eae eles 329
GREAT PLAINS, Features of the.. .. 495
GreeLy, A. W., Book review by.. 191
_—, cited on Arctic exploration... 1
—; Climatie conditions of Alask 132
fie Memorial to President Hubbar¢ 68
3 INO SieioaoZhM COYCOEN MIMI cansne concen opuap-eease 12
Gucex ain! Ancient dwellings of.
—, Aryanization of people of
; AMATINI ATO LS saeco seae eee oon ee eee 5
pe HOU AOL" Se ce enecorenyecsectiedesvatcee- ee verteseaes +
INDEX
Gee ‘LAND, Geographic names in..
, Glaciation of
_, CW. est), Three weeks in ‘Hubb
JPka loath SiS scauren guia bana
Grosvenor, FE. A., Record of leeture by..... 32
GUADALUPE HIDALGO, Treaty of, referred to. 378
GupMuNpDsson, Vanryr, Norse researches
by 73
Gunn, James, Record of address by........... 104
Hacxeuscn, H.S., Surveyor of Bitter Root
HOVSS tT OSCT VE ti vevec caesinsiecereddeentanuersnaseecs 389
Hatiockx, Cuaries, cited on geographie
LRUES pononondosdddon scia80 ensoboooccasptdcaesowSsqsods 190
—; Two hundred miles up the’ Kusko-
TAA PTIO asticiocntnig HaSee BEC NRA LORD Su aceA REE EaECereoee 85
Hamtin, T.S.; Gardiner Greene Hubbard. 33
HaRrav GorGk, Description of............... nee 460
Harpors of the Philippines.................000c00 27
=p NEM NUT EY leeaasanscee pes anconce ere ncdenes i 315
Harrisse, H., Author of ‘ Diseoy ery of
NOT HWAMITE TUG ai eecesectecckes cesoseeeee cee eeeeee Byal
Harper strait, Naming of 10
Hart, Joun 8., Reference to career of.
Harris BAY, Naming of.
HaAWLrey srratitr,
Haypen, Evererr, Pest
tary 70
Hayus, C. WiLL: VI
140, 159
EWAN TS TORUS OLernsace sctecieecponcc eeceesnserccesdean acest 245
Hazen, H. A., cited on temperature of the
JP ain yoyontia@ TRAVlENMG Is\5455 codaceceHoneoesacenno :
Hazen, W. H., Reference to work of 132
Hearst GLACIER, Namine of. 10
HEDIN, SVEN, recipient of Founders’ medal 342
HeiInprin, Anceto. Record of lecture by... 376
262
HENDERSON BAY, Naming of. ow)
Henry, A. J., Meteorologie works by 136
Hermann, B., Review of book by.............. ~AET
HicuH pratns, Cloud scenery of the; W. D.
SOMMMS OMe seecctertosenc sess eitnceoeeliseece oeesirce ss 492
Hinper, F. F.; The Philippine islands..... 257
—, Reeord of leetyres by
Hitt, Roperr T., Book review by 5
=n MOULD AM? catia cine sciovsise ver cvevcuwsseueuetressees Qusktcees 193
==, IRExconcel (ne IeeHOURS: lon yeocenanacémocssaocessadaqoace 519
—, Review of book by
Hover, F. W., Record of paper by.
Homes, W. ee Record of lecture by..
Horr, Gore, ‘Explorations by
Horsrorp, CORNELTA; Dwellings of the
Saga- -time in Greenl: ind, Iceland, anc
Watineain lee ect sce pe eredec spon sloessSacesersicctrceese tk
Hoven, Water, Record of paper by
Howe, CHARLES K.; The disposition of the
Philippines......... Ge850 304
Hoy IsLaNnp, Naming of oo os) NO)
HusparbD, GARDINER GRE ; Teunis 8.
IRIAN TIAL 5 50 eonopsneadodoncodeccaddacoripscs.oseaBenaSodenS 33
—, Acknowledgment to i 1
— Memorial TMS Tae) cecco oconodeg) seacensoas0eO 5) xe)
a Portrait Of-..--....-- aovdancceccandaoo6 asascnsoagacour, 33
HETNHB IB AURAD PB Ayes Nic VION ONO lienceee ei niceeneteitesseiiccer iil
— —, Three weeks in
Hupson’ s Bay Company, Work of...
HuNYON SPRAT?, Naming Ofc eaeiideoninta aa sxwens 10
Hype, G. E., Reference to work of.. 98
Hypr, Joun ; American Association for the
Advancement of Science.............60. see 412
—; An interesting rumor concerning
INC REG sr eopetanaceoonbo obcecnogcacaceobacesnaaekEGanbes
—, Book reviews by............ apOGOe00 192, 25%
—; Commerce of the Philippine islands... 301
== TC CELIC Wise EXD seve ceencenain-seccecceewees
—,; President Alexander G
MBA SEM © -ansocaosoncccouaeondcosonanettondesaa inp aeeae
—; Reception to ‘Capt.
WINS Ni caeccecetesoctines becca stess cea avesvadeceacscei lion
—; Trade of the United States with Cuba, 247
523
Page
Hyopr, Joun; Wellman Polar expedition... 373
Hyprocrapny, Work of division of 332
Hyprospuerr, Definition of . 436
IcrLanp, Ancient dwellings of .......... of Uo}
Inprans Of Alaska.......0...050.. LOS
INDIAN TERRITORY, Dwellings’ 6) 481
— Subdivision “of. siiuarentmennniotene 487
= Be Saryey of (Five civilized tribes and) 481
InGeRsoun, ErNesv, Review of book by. 192
IncranaAm, EK. 8., Expedition by 93
—, Reference to worl: of............. 798
INTERCONTINENTAL RarLway Commi SION,
WOT NO Barcniiscoaen tc aconseee a aaasetaien son coeeemesuasteelie 338
Isne oF Prnes, Description Of..............000.... 247
Irames, The peak of; James A. Shipton... 476
“JACKSON, SHELDON, Review of book by. 192
—, cited on Alaskan agriculture .. 189
—, Reference to work in Alaska of............ 178
=) IRGOOIHG! Oit WEGUwMIAS: |OhVooo0nccconsbooessdossoneces 31
AAG UNTIGIN, TBHIRUS "Oy ac cenooonceoarteonoccdaaconereen eset 245
Japan, President Bell on; John Hyde....... 509
Jarvis, D. H., Record of lecture anes 519
JEFFERSON ISLAND, Naming of. 10
JEFFERSON, Mark 8. W.; Atlantic estua-
TOUTING) TIC KEE nS caccnoubadacassaccnodccodabadasuonoouenee 400
What is the tide of the open Atlantic? 465
/ Nila CORSE THIGIOS socedod scoosoacbasscaoebb op 497
Jonunson, Wittarp D.; Cloud scenery of
the High Plains Sees . 493
—, Reference to work of... - 99
Toa aN ISLAND, Naming Opheiioen iateaee: iit
Kaurstentus (Mt), Naming of.. 11
Kasson (Cape), Naming of a
Kerenum, Frank, Pioneering by 137
Kini, Benton, Review of book by 192
—, Reference to work in Alaska of. 178
Ki1onprke, Overland routes to the; Ham-
eisai Grea crn (Cn oa cctv aN ae ea 113
TRIOS “HOT NYS \acunasooedencabonmbocddpedasscogccuccos 146
Kora Rapgsa, town in Sumatra, Descrip-
DUO NO Pees ee eee eee oR EG rin ate ay eA 463
Krause, the Doctors, Explorations by...... 110
Kuskokwin, Two hundred miles up the;
Ghamlespelallo climersessssspeeeeaereceseeeeeneeaes 85
IE Gdiio! TIRIHAUNA) IN ehadubales Ot coseeecoccoocscuosbonoc‘old 11
La Boca pock, Completion of the.............. 84
Larayerre formation, Features of............. 321
Lakr Curran; Henry Gannett.................. 417
Lake Province, Geological formation of... 314
PANGUEIS iS) 15 aohnowedsment tore wies
One Gores General Wy ork of
Lapiace, P. S., cited on tides
Larurop, Barsour; Fellow-trave
D. G. Fairchild.
uAws. Cuban ..-:..-..
—, Mining
Leparce, Mix e by
Leaasrt, Migurn pr, Conquest of
Philip-
pines by s{scnoob oegoaBdet dacnonanAbadon abaduscuoooucEaS 281
Lenore, Str James, Acknowledgment to.. 84
L’ BNranr, Piprre CHaruss, Plans for Na-
OMe Chyaniteall @ilf.ccnsgcessnossoco.0bonapssan80005 326
Lewis AND ChaARKE EXPEDITION, A relic of
Tae) Ss Cympimist CL TBA) -.c-asccssn6sereDo0od s8G9bRN9 100
LiGuT-HOUSE cata te bene Work of... 335
Liprincorr, J. B., Surveyor of Bitter Root
THOMEIN THEREIN boannoccocuoageodrodcenboussoon000000 . 389
LITHOSPHERE, Definition Off.............-....eeee 437
Lovurtstana purehase and our title west of
IRVIN TANCONUITMAMID MS soo oncscncnancdadonoosnocdacss 477
— —, Reference to 3TT
524
Page
Luier, Prince Amapeo, Ascent of Aguille
SEVIS! INI@ a LON ocoscoco ssancbaoSqnGadEDNC ONIONS J8507000 448
—. Mt St Elias expedition of.................... 93
McA.tister, E. H., Reference to work of.. 98
McConnetn, R. G., Exploration by............ 140
McCiure, Enear, Reference to work of.... 97
McGer, W J, Acknowledgment to.............. 84
—; American geographic edueation......... 305
—, Book reviews by.............06+5 26, 477, 512, 515
—; Geographic development of the Dis-
trict of Columbia. 317
—; Geographic work of the Bureau of
American Bthnology......2.............s..-0=- 98
—,; Geologie atlas of the United States 339
== 8 IPOD ERDISTENGs osscssoecooedsceeooseseocsa5s0e5 345
—, Record of lectures by f 414
55 IR@IETRREG)) 1s socoasodeasaossosboqusseboqacedcIDGEGG550 99
=a The geospheres............... wee 485
The growth of th nited States.. :
ze The modern Mississippi problem...
Topographic atlas of the United States 343
ican (GUA) 5 INE a MIIAER Cyt ie 5555c00n6005 cogsooooced0o0 11
Mckuy, R. H., Record of lecture by......... 375
McKIn ey, Prestpenv ; Action in reference
to Bitter Root forest reserve.......... --- 388
—, Tribute to President Hubbard by 40)
Mapacascar, Notes On........ ......s..5..- oo I
MaAnpIson Istanp, Naming Of...............:0eeeee 10
Maceruars, Fernanpo pg, Discovery of
1D owl lifey oWEIS 1076 segocoococnqq0e565505050009~00'720200 281
MANTA, Wocation Of. ...--.-.2..0.c0s-2>- 257
Marine, Mercantile, of the world
Manvuracrures of the Philippines ae
Mereroronoey, Alaskan............... bo 1B
— of Cuba.. Sata, sosadese! A0)S)
— —the Philippines.............00.0.... 2. eee esee ee 62
MERCANTILE Marine of the world. . 480
Mrsa VERDE; FP. H. Newell....................--- 431
MernakarL~a mission (The) in danger;
\Wwirailliigon Jel, JD RMU! scaaqsososcooned eae aeabha ie Tau es 187
Mexico, Review of book on.. oo gil
Minerats of Alaska.............. .. 136
— — Cuba... cece 215
— — the Philippines............ a ATK)
Mississtppi problem, Modern; W J McGee.. 24
Missourt Rrver Commissron, Work of........ | 336
Mircuett, Henry, cited on tides......... 474, 503
Monroe pocrrine, Geographical aspects of.. 476
Moorr, W. L., Work of, referred to.... 26
Morritn, Park, Review of book by 26
Mr Rainier, The height of; Richard U.
GOO Ree eee ee Le hs Bae ase 97
Mr Sr Enras (The) expedition of Prince
Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, 1897; Eliza
IRihI MONE A SenChINOMe~Asccossdccco0ss Sxo5adcC0 93
MurLuatr estimates of national wealth...... 383
Mutiiean, James H., Report on the Sa-
jeOMORNN COCOA ONUIE LOS Zi casmdececoncotoson scodeococoes 12
Murpocnu, Jonn; On Eskimo geographic
names ending in Miut.............. eee 190
Myer, A. J., Reference to work of............ 139
Names, Application of geographic ............ 10
—, Es skimo XS(OF SN) OK Ce cecoondocoacecanene0ce2: 190
—, geographic, in West Greenland; R. S.
AT ATT ute eeeeias os aisstia nae nse cto nian seeenencoaecautl 103
Warronat Caprran, Historical development
of; Mareus) Baker.::---..-..-+-- ALES
— development, Factors of. 384
— Edueational Association, Meeting of.... 305
— University, Advocates Of.............0.0.0++56 10
= Loplozical iy TERM Rep ea ate rahe 333
Net son, E. Meteorological work by..... 135
; Notes a pa wild fowl and game ani-
“mals Of AlASl ayes ccs:s 2 sieedecies 121
Neprunian rocks, Definition of.. 309
Newcome, H. 'l., Book reviews b 9, 253
—— LE VICWAOM DOOKMNOVaresrisccessecavececeerecersces 514
INDEX
Page
NeEwcoms (Cape), Naming Of............-......000 11
Newe tt, F. H., iDieentenn “of, as secretary of
National Geographic SOGIC Dy aeeereseeeees 70
8 WR WERE ee ccaecosntdecncoscease . 431
—, Record of lecture by..........:......c0-s.s0sc+ 376
Norpenskrioip, N. A. Epr, Book of, quoted. 431
Norris, F. W., Acknowledgment to.......... 84
INORSEN GUIS COMETS ac -crsessceeecensssceseeceaee eee es 73
Ocitviz, WriLitaM, cited on area of Yukon.. 178
=, JAE GONOMANNOIN 19) /oooaqnnbeosnos0cocadsbaBooOKeCERN 140
—, Reference to work of, 112, 136
Oprerti (Mt), Naming of.... eee il!
OREGON TeRRITORY, Acquisition Of............. 377
Oviepo quoted in reference to Chaves
WME) SaonosonpcococnamaaoocoooobAcog9eSEEC babosecoscoocDaCeS 372
Papago Inprans, Characteristics of.. cop
PAPAGUERTA 5 W J MCGee..... 2.5. 0.cece cece veceee 345
PArRoNns’ MEDAL awarded to R. E. Peary.... 342
Payer, Jutrus von, cited on Arctic explo-
TAGLON A aec ih a2 2s see Seecev eons nodes eestlsomBeareneneee 1
Prary, R. E., cited on Aretic exploration.. 1
—, recipient of Patrons’ medal.................. 342
Peck, Annie S., Record of lecture by........ 376
PEPPER (Mt), Naming Of.............00...-ceseneese 11
PERKINS, GEORGE C. ; The civil government
onpAllaiskeareeeacsscesiesnres Heismar Re paopod amr ce cobean 172
PHILIPPINE IstaAnps (The); F. F. Hilder... 257
——7 = C.OMMM ET COLO leerescenssscescesseesenea tee eae 301
—, Ethnology of................. wee 264
— —, Government in............. cons 2A
= Jal pe) oYONYS) Oli, -o-sosemsens cosspoHenoboKSSneanoCOsNCS 274
— —, History of.... 281
——, Manufactures of.. 271
— —, Meteorology of.... con 4
MMe Tall SuO lt seenteseete scene se ceeseieeeseceaess 270
—— = | POSEN EOSM, iio oosnacunodssoncna9e oAocsenoD00RGEd 278
— —, The disposition of; Charles F. Howe. 304
PHILIPPINE TRIBES; Notes on some primi-
tive ; Dean ©. Worcester...........0..:-0.0+s 284
Prerer, Raout, Reference to experiments
in liquefaction of gases bY............eeseeee 440
Piman stock of Indians...............:02--2-0+e+e0=s 347
PirpMont provincr, Geological formation
OI cenaqgaccadaodacoos Ep seoo0RhOoCDOGeRo cau oSAscoRdoecoOaGNS. 317
Pincuor, Girrorp, Record of lecture by..... 376
PLUTONIC ROCKS, Definition Of-.scssscces. 309
POLAR EXPEDITION......2---- --:---c20- . 102, 373
Pomotoay, Work of division of. 338
PORTER ISLAND, Naming: Of. :...2-.22-----00c2-+-cee0 IL
Poromac river, Influence on District of
(CONTA BIE) Ort esccoqsnaennccoaASotoncooobacbecaosooe 319
JEON) JRO); IBSVACIS) OP secocs nooo cocdo’ 005020
Powett, J. W., Acknowledgment to.....
—, Memorial to President Hubbard by.
—, Reference to explorations by 98
—, Referred to as an edueator....... 435
—, Work of, in Geological Survey .. 340
Powe. (Mt), Naming of.................2.. o Wil
Priest, W. 13h, Record of lecture by... 519
PRITcHErT, H. S., Surveyor of Bitter Root
LOLEStLTORCLV.O I eee Be
Procrser, J. R., Record of lecture by.
Proctor svrair, Naming Of...............6
Pursio quadrangle, Description of. ..
— folio, Referred to
Purt, Hira Stneu, Re
Purnam, Frepertc W
—, Portrait of............
PsycuospHerer, Definition of
cord of lecture by... 375
John Hyde............ 429
Raitways, Review of book on............. se... 25s
Ray, P. H., Meteorological work:
Raymonp, C. W., Exploration by
Recerrion to Captain Sigsbee ; John Hyde. 251
RICHARDSON ISLAND, NAMING Of......cee eee ee eee 11
RIDPATH ISLAND, Naming) Of............. sss 1
INDEX
Rizer, H. C., Record of address by....
Rosertson, Joun M., Record of lecture by,
Boies neptunian, Definition of.................
, plutonic, Definition of.............. a0
Romeno, Martas, Review of book by.
Ross, Joun W., Memorial
to President
Hubbard by RRC RES BE HORA OHDOT SOE CSGe
Roures to the Klondike...
Royce, Jostan, Record of lecture by......... 414
Russevt, Israet C., Exploration by.. ... 140
—, Record of lecture by................ -. O86
—, Review of bool: by... 518
EVV OMEN O Ten CUUC Olerentesestcsconsceveecsicereancescess 93
Ryper, C. H., Exploration in Greenland... 2
Ryper (CINE), INEM aTIITON ER Ol iecsaccootdodssnnncdesceeouone 11
Saca-rime (dwellings of the) in Iceland,
Greenland, and Vineland; Cornelia ;
LOUSON, Citcteeresseeensste ance coecesecieteecedecess 73
Samoan cocoanut (The); A. W. Gree ven fie iliz
SVAIKOVNG INI@UEIS. Olmlessssoucsnoacdeacks osedoodsseEesedascdon 12
SVAINy IDYomvinng(cHo); JBIIACIS) Oj ssccnodasscoosocaddsenessossece 245
San XAVIER, Hcp elvation Olieaer 347
SCHRADER, F. , Exploration by . 141
ScHWaAtrka, pee Rick, Explor: tions oe 5 UG)
ScrpmMorp, ‘Eniza R. , quoted on Java.......... 449
The northwest’ passes to the Yukon.... 105
—; The Mt St Elias expedition of Prince
Ibgbilesit AATEC KEXO)- TING coocoasenoecanpteedsone sacs 93
Scrsco, L. D.; Gomez and the New York
PUM reena wececetecrancccnen ceccer es sesusrascuescauetene 37
SeLua, Virrori1o, Expedition by 93
SHERMAN STRAIT, Rees One eee ol
Sureron, James A.; The peak of It: umbé.... 476
SIGSBER, Ges ic HARLES 1).; Henry Gan-
VS) AL ee Se CN RE Ue Sa 250
—, Reception to; John Hyde. Mi 251
—— POTD ALO se onescadoncsmterenescesens 193
—, Letter from President Bell to.. zo
SKAGWAY CANON, Picture Of.................00:.. 109
SMITHSONIAN InstiruTtoN and its dependen-
CLES MV LO TIO fee naar auesssant nes eeua Renee esas 333
Sporrorp, A. R.; Memorial to President
Hubbard LON patceraa papas Gocemn nntanradee pabeso6g 63
Spracun, E. K., Record of lectur 32
SPuRR, ae E., Exploration by.. 141
— , cited on gold rocks of Y ‘ulkon.. 162
Stare (The); Elements of historic: ul and
FDIS KOU RN FOXONN OS ocoosoodecacongandnecadoodesonou 478
State oF WasnHini Forest conditions
and standing timber of the ; Hehry
Gran eG be ye ones eres nk col anoiee NL Ey 410
STEHEKIN river; Description of gorges
along
SUB Ropert, Reference to the work of.. 103
say hree weeks in Hubbard bay, West
” Greenland SSSR SACRO ScORCROR OCC EL Ea Eten
STERNBERG, GroRrGE M., Memorial to Pre
ident Hubbard Dee
rope et ale aan ce neve tancn tee eae cuseh LMly é
Suire, B., Abstract of paper by...
Sumatra, Features of
SuMATRA’Ss west coast ;
David G. Fairchild... 449
UNWORSHMP A Zilina e rere tae eutc ere jue
Swirzertanp, Notes on
Tanner, Z. L., Record of lecture by ......... 375
PARE AW AUN ATION OI Gaeccsecscdelecsseesuccntseosens 11
Tarr, Ratpu §.; Geographic names in
Wie ui Gure emilan Chersassciaiec secu nccevesesecterece 103
Taytor, R. S., Record of lecture by ......... 375
My EMPERATURE, of the ear th, Definition of... 443
Tuayer, H.
, Ac knowledgment \@b5coaq000
TIDEs, ie coast.. e
—, Atlantie estuar ine,
a GT OSa Pea lierceet scutes Secccscocccne csdeneecececs
825
Tiprs of the open Atlantic
wah DNC OLY 2 Olteredarectcs ustseececctanes eetaeeceartoeonsctes
TorograpPHic atlas of the United States ;
IWir JMG Ge tree ates tonscccu setae siesctecinccteene secon 343
AMUN, (CHU SENT) concenonsoconosecenebeosond
—, Our foreign; Henry Gannett......
Trrpter, C. E., Reference to work of..
TRUE, F W. , Acknowledgment to..
TUTTLE, ie Review of book by
Untrep Srares, Climatic conditions of the.. 316
— —, Geologie atlas of the; W J McGee... 339
— —, Growth of the; W J McGee.............. 377
— — National Museum...................0.csseeeeee 333
—, Origin of the physical features of
WOKE)’ (Cra 1kCe Gi GYSiN es sodedonsinceancoceocacasoassaon 308
Ss , Topographic atlas of the ; WJ MeGee 343
= , Trade of, with Cuba ; John Hy. dierse-ecrs 247
VAN Hise, C. R., cited on geospheres........ 443
VILAS (Mt), N INFEMTOUI NYE! Otis ond oS ses0q5asodoe0c8 60007 ut
VINELAND, Ancient ‘dwellings Olfeocceeodoo00sea0 73
Waxcorr, C. D., Acknowledgment to.........
—, Work of, in Geological Survey...
Wautacer, A. R., cited on Cuban birds
Warp, H. SNowpven, Record of lecture by.. 70
WASHINGTON city, Naming of...
— rsLANnp, Naming of.
—, Forest conditions and standing timber
of the State of ; Henry Gannett........... 410
WATERFALLS, Batang-Harau ..............0.ecceee 460
Water, Definition of.............. we. 436
WEATHER BuREAU, Work of.............-.-+- 26, 337
Wesster, Harriz, Record of lecture by.... 519
WELLMAN Polar expedition; John Hyde... 373
— — —, Committee of advisers on............ 374
West Inpta bird life, The origin of; Frank
IWS CME OMEN coccncdoogheceddeoccoosaedacce90e 243
West Inpres, Fauna of.. SNotetud: cena:
WHEELER, GrorGe M., Surv and explo-
rations of the West Wyiii...-.scccccsssscccces 33
WHEWELL, WILLIAM, quoted on tides......... 469
Wuitr, Anprew D., Tribute to President
Wuite pass, Description of.
Wuitr, THomas, Naming of pass after....... 112
Wurman, B. L., Memorial to President
Jaltallo) of Nec ONY crpooehoosbecascadeeesodocnoudancedaccn 50
Wuitney, Mintron, quoted on soils of
JNIIBASIIKE -roonnceeenoaoncnooacboccooncgob0eena BaCOnGEaoD 179
Wuymper, Freperick, Exploration by...... 13
Wits, Barney, Record of lecture by........ 375
Witiovausy, C. C., Acknowledgment to.... 84
Witson strait, Naming Of...............+... 5 lil
Witson, Witttam L., Memorial to Presi-
Gemniphi barca bye escent ecemetinsesnestitesenes 3
Witson, Wooprow, Review of book by ...... 478
Woop, C. E. S., Explorations by................ 108
Woopwarp, R. S., cited on geospheres...... 438
WORCESTER, DEAN C.; Notes on some prim-
itive Philippine tribes... siabedeuee sen eOe
—, Review of book by......... . 515
Wrieuv (Lake), Naming Of..............0:00.00.08 iit
Yate, Carorine, Memorial to President
Eitiobar dub yi sees tnesiieessdaceeaeeccateeseeccess
Youne, Tuomas, cited on tides.......
Yukon gold fields, Future of the; William
TET DE eocecauceecacasanecedacdes scaaceemedcer mosbaoaco
— river, Description of.
—, The northwest passes to the; Eliza R.
Scidmore....... =
— valley, Agriculture Im...............ssc0.eesees 189
ZuNt sunworship, Reference to... 308
ERRATA
Page 108, line 1, for ‘‘ George C. Davidson’’ read George Davidson.
Page 467, line 23, for ‘* half” read quarter.
Page 472, line 21, for “ Vineyard” read Nantucket.
526
ta a
TM ltes at
Rong
NAT. GEOG. MAG.
VOL. IX, 1898, PL. 4. 77
DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
U. S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY —
CHARLES D. WALCOTT, DIRECTOR
as
THE GOLD AND COAL FIELDS OF
. BAS A
TOGETHER WITH THE PRINCIPAL STEAMER ROUTES AND TRAILS
S .
DI
: oe : Ms aw
2 , yw & Z fs a
ty, i , : S \ ; : > ira’
ie
Scale —1:3600000 or about 57 miles to one inch
60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 { 120
E os
NOTE— Published January, 1898. The base vs a copy of a part of chart T
of the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, edition of Jue, 1897.
r sw F 3 :
i P B sping le li. s = é ‘s a
E ' é m snus Mes, 3M 5 t A
68 4 a & us se aus
Birch Creek series
Both are gold bearing
Fortymile series
Port: Clarence
Pt Spencer /
me Douglas
;
tN C.Rodney
64
Aleo°
(633) ,.
gx poteag? | wewast
te
“Otter I
4
A
2
“a
7
<
: : : t : - ‘ z i 'TRAILS FROM TIDE WATER TO THE
| eS Gs 5 3 HEADWATERS OF THE YUKON RIVER
ALASKA
SCALE — 1:1 447000 OR 23 STATUTE MILES TO ONE INCH.
| '
CANADA
SCALE — 1:1 447000 oR 93 STATUTE MILES TO ONE INCH.
1° 3oMuES . S5Omites
{33° 132°
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